HAIR CLEANING COMPOSITION
The hair cleansing composition with hydroxy acids and specific surfactants addresses the issue of long-lasting cleanliness without scalp irritation, achieving effective and gentle hair cleaning.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022007000
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-05-31
- Filing Date
- 2022-07-08
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-20
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-07-08
AI Technical Summary
Existing shampoos fail to provide long-lasting cleanliness without causing scalp irritation due to high surfactant and exfoliating agent content, leading to issues like dryness, itching, and redness.
A hair cleansing composition comprising hydroxy acids, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and a solvent, specifically using a combination of alpha and beta hydroxy acids with alkyl(poly)glycosides and fatty amidoamines, to enhance cleaning efficacy while reducing irritation.
The composition delivers a long-lasting cleansing effect with reduced scalp irritation, as demonstrated by improved cell viability and enhanced cleaning scores.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: HAIR CLEANSING COMPOSITION Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, it relates to a composition for cleaning hair and a method for cleaning hair therewith. RELATED ART
[0002] Oily scalp and hair have become a worrying scalp problem worldwide. People usually use anti-grease shampoo to remove dirt and oil from the scalp.
[0003] Many shampoos have been developed to cleanse the hair and scalp.
[0004] For example, US9018150B1 discloses a cleaning composition containing from about 6% to about 20% of at least one nonionic surfactant; from about 3% to about 10% of at least one amphoteric surfactant; from about 2% to about 8% of at least one anionic surfactant; and from about 0.1% to about 5% of at least one anionic surfactant, a cationic conditioning amine, or a combination thereof; wherein the amount of nonionic surfactant present in the final composition is greater than the amount of amphoteric surfactant, and the ratio of nonionic surfactant (a) to anionic surfactant (c) is at least about 1.9 times that of the anionic surfactant, relative to the weight percentage of each surfactant in the final composition.
[0005] However, for most of the commercial shampoos available, consumers are not satisfied with the long-lasting cleanliness between hair washes. To achieve good long-lasting cleaning performance, most of the commercial shampoos available contain large amounts of surfactants as cleansing agents and exfoliating agents to remove stubborn sebum and dead cells. The high amounts of surfactants and exfoliating agents in the shampoo lead to an irritation problem that causes scalp dryness, itching, redness and even stinging sensation.
[0006] Consumers are therefore always looking for optimized cleansing compositions that provide a long-lasting and adequate cleansing effect while reducing scalp irritation problems. Summary of the invention
[0007] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop compositions for the hair cleansing, which can provide a long-lasting adequate cleansing effect, and at the same time, less scalp irritation problems.
[0008] Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for cleaning hair.
[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a hair cleansing composition comprising:
[0010] a) at least one hydroxy acid;
[0011] b) at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides;
[0012] c) at least one cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines corresponding to the following formula (I) and their salts:
[0013] RCONHR"N(R')2 (I)
[0014] in which R is an acyclic, linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
[0015] R" is a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; and
[0016] R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; and
[0017] d) a solvent.
[0018] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a method of cleaning hair comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair, then rinsing the hair with water after an optional exposure period.
[0019] The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can deliver a long-lasting cleansing effect with reduced irritation to the scalp.
[0020] Other objects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0021] In this document, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0022] As used herein, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted to include all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.
[0023] In this document, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. "consisting of").
[0024] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art. art to which the present invention belongs. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention belongs, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0025] In this document, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0026] According to the first aspect of the present invention, a hair cleansing composition comprises:
[0027] a) at least one hydroxy acid;
[0028] b) at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides;
[0029] c) at least one cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines corresponding to the following formula (I) and their salts:
[0030] RCONHR"N(R')2 (I)
[0031] in which R is an acyclic, linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
[0032] R" is a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; and
[0033] R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; and
[0034] d) a solvent. HYDROXYACIDS
[0035] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydroxy acid. This hydroxy acid may be chosen from an alpha hydroxy acid and / or a beta hydroxy acid. Preferably, the at least one hydroxy acid is a combination of an alpha-hydroxy acid and a beta-hydroxy acid. Alpha hydroxy acids
[0036] By "alpha hydroxy acid" is meant, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group).
[0037] Suitable alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid.
[0038] Preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, and combinations thereof.
[0039] More preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid in the composition consists of lactic acid.
[0040] Lactic acid, or 2-hydroxypropanoic acid, gently exfoliates excess sebum, residue and dead cells around the follicles and gives energy and bounce to the hair roots. In addition, lactic acid also stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the skin, thus improving the barrier function and hydration of the skin.
[0041] Advantageously, the alpha hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Beta hydroxy acids
[0042] By "beta-hydroxy acid" is meant, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.
[0043] Suitable beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, their derivatives and combinations thereof.
[0044] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivative of formula (II):
[0045] (II)
[0046] in which R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or more double bonds, conjugated or not, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably from 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted for example by at least one substituent chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups under free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0047] R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula (III): --O — C — Rj O
[0048] (III)
[0049] in which Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0050] Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.
[0051] More preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0052] Most preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.
[0053] Salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is provided to the chemical peel composition to allow enhanced penetration of the composition into the skin. Salicylic acid penetrates deeper into the skin than alpha hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid.
[0054] Advantageously, the beta-hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0055] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention contains at least one alpha hydroxy acid and at least one beta hydroxy acid. In this case, the alpha hydroxy acid is present in an amount of 0.1 to 30% by weight and the beta hydroxy acid is present in an amount of 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. And the alpha hydroxy acid to beta hydroxy acid ratio is from 0.5 to 30, preferably from 1 to 15, and more preferably from 2 to 10. Preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid is chosen from lactic acid and the beta hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid.
[0056] The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can effectively remove stubborn sebum, in particular when it contains both an alpha hydroxy acid and a beta hydroxy acid, in particular lactic acid and salicylic acid or its derivative. Thus, the combination of surfactant and hydroxy acids provide an even better long-lasting cleaning effect. ALKYL(POLY)GLUCOSIDE(S)
[0057] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl(poly)glucosides.
[0058] As used herein, the term "alkyl(poly)glucoside" refers to alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides, and polyglucosides.
[0059] Alkyl or polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides which may be used include, for example, those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group which preferably comprises from 1 to 5, for example 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units.
[0060] In certain embodiments, the composition comprises at least one alkylpolyglucoside corresponding to the following formula (XI):
[0061] R^—(R2O)t—(G)v
[0062] (IV)
[0063] in which
[0064] Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 6 to 30, for example from 8 to 24, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group in which the alkyl radical is linear or branched and contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
[0065] R2 represents an alkylene group containing from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0066] G represents a saccharide unit containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose, fructose or galactose;
[0067] t is a number ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, more preferably from 0 to 3; and
[0068] v is a number ranging from 1 to 15.
[0069] Non-limiting examples of useful alkyl(poly)glucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate.
[0070] In some embodiments, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, and combinations thereof.
[0071] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises decyl glucoside.
[0072] In various embodiments, the total amount of alkyl(poly)glycosides ranges from about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, preferably from about 1 wt% to about 12 wt%, more preferably from about 2 wt% to about 8 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. CATIONIC SURFACTANTS FATTY AMIDOAMINE
[0073] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines corresponding to the following formula (la) and their salts:
[0074] RCONHR"N(R')2(I)
[0075] in which R is an acyclic, linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
[0076] R" is a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; and
[0077] R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms.
[0078] Preferably, R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing 2 or 3 carbon atoms.
[0079] Preferably, the R' groups, which may be the same or different, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted. More preferably, the R' groups are methyl groups.
[0080] Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, and combinations thereof.
[0081] Preferably, the cationic surfactant is chosen from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and combinations thereof.
[0082] Advantageously, the cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. ANIONIC SURFACTANTS
[0083] The composition of the invention may contain at least one anionic surfactant.
[0084] By "anionic surfactant" is meant a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
[0085] In the present description, a species is said to be "anionic" when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
[0086] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate and / or sulfonate surfactants. It is understood in the present description that:
[0087] - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise carboxylate functions; and
[0088] - the anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
[0089] The anionic sulfonate surfactants which can be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).
[0090] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamide-sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfo-succinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds.
[0091] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0092] these compounds being optionally polyoxyethylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0093] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen, alone or in combination, from:
[0094] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, laurylsulfo- succinates in particular;
[0095] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
[0096] - C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferentially C6-C24 acylisethionates C12-C18,
[0097] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
[0098] The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
[0099] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
[0100] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0101] these compounds being optionally polyoxyethylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0102] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen, alone or in combination, from:
[0103] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates,
[0104] - alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising pre preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
[0105] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
[0106] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
[0107] Among the amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned, there may be included monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0108] Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0109] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in combination, from:
[0110] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
[0111] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising potentially from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
[0112] -C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;
[0113] - C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
[0114] -C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferentially C12-C18 acylisethionates;
[0115] in particular in the form of salts of alkali metal such as sodium or of alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol.
[0116] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and a combination thereof.
[0117] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 9% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 12% by weight to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0118] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention contains an anionic surfactant, preferably a sulfate anionic surfactant as described above. above. AQUEOUS PHASE
[0119] The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
[0120] Preferably, the aqueous phase is a continuous phase.
[0121] The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises water.
[0122] The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20-25°C), for example polyols such as C2-C6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol; glycol ethers (containing in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and combinations thereof.
[0123] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 40% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 50% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
[0124] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise any other additional ingredient which is usually used in the field of self-cleaning products, in particular shampoos.
[0125] A person skilled in the art can choose the amount of the additional ingredients so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0126] For example, such additional ingredients include pH adjusters, preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the foregoing, and combinations thereof.
[0127] Non-limiting examples of pH adjusting agents include potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine and combinations thereof.
[0128] In certain embodiments, a pH correcting agent is used in an amount such that the pH of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6.5, preferably 2 to 6.5, more preferably 3.5 to 4.5.
[0129] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for cleaning the hair comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0130] a) from 1.5% by weight to 10% by weight of lactic acid and from 1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one beta hydroxy acid chosen from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combinations thereof;
[0131] b) from 2% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, cocoglucoside, caprylylglucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and combinations thereof;
[0132] c) from 0.4% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, and combinations thereof;
[0133] d) water; and
[0134] e) from 12% by weight to 18% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant;
[0135] wherein the pH of the composition is from 3.5 to 4.5. PREPARATION AND USE
[0136] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to d), as essential ingredients, as well as one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.
[0137] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0138] The composition according to the present invention may have a gel-like texture.
[0139] According to the second aspect of the present invention, a method of cleansing hair comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair, then rinsing with water after an optional exposure period.
[0140] The following examples are given for the purpose of illustration of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope. Examples
[0141] The main raw materials used, the trade names and the suppliers of these materials are listed in Table 1.
[0142] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier LACTIC ACID L(+)-LACTIC ACID 90% THERMOSTABLE QUALITY PERSONAL CARE JUNGBUNZLAUER SALICYLIC ACID SALICYLIC ACID USP ALTA LABORATORIES TRIETHANOL AMINE TRIETANOLAMINA 99 OXITENO BRASSICAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE PROCONDITION 22 INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY STEARAMIDOPROPYL DL METHYLAMINE MACKINE 301U RHODIA (SOLVAY) DECYL GLUCOSIDE PLANTACARE 2000 UP BASF SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE KOPACOL N701 S RENU ULTRA / MB MASPHATE ES70 IM LD RSPO MB KENSING PT MUSIM MAS SODIUM HYDROXIDE SODIUM HYDROXIDE 48% PT. MULIA AGUNG CHEMINDO COCAMIDE MEA COMPERLAN 100 BASF COCAMIDE MIPA EMPILAN CIS INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS LAURETH-9 JEECOL LA-9 JEEN INTERNATIONAL
[0143] Examples of the invention la2 and Comparative Examples la4
[0144] Shampoos according to examples of the invention (El.) 1-2 and comparative examples (EC.)l-4 1 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of each shampoo, unless otherwise indicated):
[0145] [Tables2] Ingredients EL 1 EL 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC.3 EC. 4 SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 15 15 15 15 15 15 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 2.65 2.65 2.65 2.65 COCAMIDE MEA 2 COCAMIDE MIPA 1 LAURETH-9 2.65 LACTIC ACID 5.4 5.4 5.4 5.4 5.4 SALICYLIC ACID 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 BRASSICAMIDOPROPYL DL METHYLAMINE 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.5 0.5 STEARAMIDOPROPYL DL METHYLAMINE 0.50 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.27 1.27 1.31 1.27 1.27 0.1 WATER QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 PH 4.3 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 4.0
[0146] The shampoos of the invention examples E1 1-2 are compositions according to the present invention.
[0147] The shampoo of comparative example EC 1 does not include fatty amidoamine.
[0148] The shampoo of comparative example EC 2 comprises a non-ionic surfactant different from COCAMIDE MEA and COCAMIDE MIPA.
[0149] The shampoo of comparative example EC 3 comprises a non-ionic surfactant different from LAURETH-9.
[0150] The shampoo of comparative example EC 4 does not comprise a hydroxy acid.
[0151] Preparation procedure i
[0152] Each shampoo was prepared as follows, taking the shampoo of the invention Example 1 for illustration.
[0153] 1) add BRASSICAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE and STEARA- MIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE to water with stirring, heat to 75 degrees or more, mix until transparent;
[0154] 2) add LACTIC ACID, SALICYLIC ACID and sodium hydroxide in the transparent base with agitation;
[0155] 3) add SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE and DECYL GLUCOSIDE, mix until transparent;
[0156] 4) correct the pH to 4.3 with SODIUM HYDROXIDE. Assessment Cell viability
[0157] Cell viability is determined by the MTT assay on the D6 model.
[0158] Model D6:
[0159] EpiSkin™ reconstructed epidermis models were used in this study.
[0160] EpiSkin™ tissues and medium were purchased from Shanghai EPISKIN Bio-technology Co, Ltd. The size of EpiSkin™ tissues for this study is 1.07 cm2
[0161] Test procedure:
[0162] 1) A diluted 2.5% shampoo (30 μl) was applied topically to the epidermis of model D6 for 45 minutes at room temperature using a nylon mesh. Exposure was terminated by rinsing with phosphate-buffered saline (PBS). Two units of epidermis were used per test group.
[0163] 2) Post-incubation: the epidermis were then incubated at 37°C for 18 hours additional;
[0164] 3) Incubation of the epidermis for 3 hours with a solution of MTT (bromide of 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazolyl-2)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium). The precipitated formazan was then extracted using acidified isopropanol for 2 days at 4°C,
[0165] and quantified by spectrophotometry at 570 nm using 96-well plates.
[0166] 4) Measurement of optical density value using spectropho- quantification tometric at 570 nm with MULTISKAN ASCENT, then calculation of cell viability (%) via sample OD value / blank OD value. Long-lasting clean scalp
[0167] The cleansing effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:
[0168] 6 volunteers were recruited, half of each volunteer's hair was washed with the test shampoo, and the other half of each volunteer's hair was washed with a reference product.
[0169] A non-silicone shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP from Loreal) was used as a reference product in the above cleansing effect evaluation.
[0170] The cleaning effect scores of each test shampoo were given by the volunteers 24 hours after application and averaged. The cleaning effect scores were given 24 hours after application.
[0171] The rating standard for the conditioning effect and cleansing effect of each The shampoo on trial is as follows.
[0172] —: the shampoo under test is significantly inferior to the reference product;
[0173] - the shampoo under test is slightly inferior to the reference product;
[0174] =: the shampoo under test is similar to the reference product;
[0175] +: the shampoo under test is slightly superior to the reference product; and
[0176] ++: the shampoo under test is clearly superior to the reference product.
[0177] The results of cell viability and lasting clean scalp are summarized in Table 3.
[0178] [Tables3] Property ELI EI.2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC.3 EC. 4 cell viability (%) 85 85.20 67 55 49 60 Scalp lastingly clean + + + + + -
[0179] Cell viability is a measure of the proportion of living and healthy cells within a population. Cell viability assays are used to determine the overall health of cells, the higher it is, the gentler it is. Higher cell viability means less irritation and less damage to the cells of the Stratum Corneum. It can be seen that the compositions according to the present invention are better in terms of cell viability. This is to say that the compositions according to the present invention demonstrate an irritation-reducing effect on the scalp. And meanwhile, the compositions according to the present invention can provide an adequate long-lasting cleansing effect.
Claims
Claims
1. A hair cleansing composition comprising: a) at least lactic acid and salicylic acid; b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl(poly)glycosides; c) at least one cationic surfactant selected from fatty amidoamines having the following formula (I) and their salts: RCONHR"N(R')2(I) in which R is a linear or branched acyclic alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; R" is a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; and R', which may be the same or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms; and d) a solvent.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl(poly)glycosides comprises at least one compound selected from those of formula (IV): R1O—(R2O)t—(G)v (IV) in which RI represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group in which the linear or branched alkyl radical contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene group containing from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a saccharide unit containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose, fructose or galactose; t is a number ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, more preferably from 0 to 3; and v is a number from 1 to 15.
3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidethyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidpropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidethyl dimethylamine, midoethyl diethylamine, and combinations thereof.
4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises an anionic surfactant.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the pH of the composition is from 2 to 6.5, preferably from 3.5 to 4.
5.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 1.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one lactic acid and from 1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one beta hydroxy acid chosen from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, and combinations thereof; b) from 2% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, cocoglucoside, caprylyl-glucoside; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and combinations thereof;c) from 0.4% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, and combinations thereof; d) water; and e) from 12% by weight to 18% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant wherein the pH of the composition is from 3.5 to 4.5.;
7. A method of cleansing hair comprising applying the composition of any preceding claim to the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional exposure period.