Composition for lightening or coloring the skin
A composition with white particles, acrylic acid polymer, and AMPS polymer in a hydrophilic phase addresses stability and viscosity issues in oil-in-water emulsions, providing a stable and effective skin lightening or coloring gel.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022005707
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-05-06
- Filing Date
- 2022-06-14
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-15
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-06-14
AI Technical Summary
Conventional oil-in-water emulsions for skin care and makeup are not entirely satisfactory in terms of stability and viscosity, making it difficult to achieve a stable lightening or coloring effect without droplets falling from the hand during application.
A composition comprising white particles, acrylic acid polymer, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer, and glycerin in a hydrophilic phase, with specific viscosity and stability characteristics, ensuring a stable and easy-to-apply gel formulation.
The composition provides a suitable viscosity for easy application and maintains stability over time, achieving a lightening or coloring effect on the skin without droplets falling, enhancing user experience.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition for lightening or coloring the skin Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for lightening or coloring the skin, in particular human skin. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] The color of human skin depends on various factors, including the seasons of the year, race, and sex; it is primarily determined by the nature and concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. Melanocytes are specialized cells that synthesize melanin using specific organelles, the melanosomes. In addition, at various times in their lives, some individuals notice the appearance of dark and / or colored spots on the skin, particularly on the hands, which give the skin a heterogeneity.
[0003] For various reasons linked in particular to greater comfort of use (softness, emollience, etc.), current compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, are most often in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion consisting of a continuous dispersing aqueous phase and a dispersed discontinuous oily phase or a water-in-oil (W / O) type emulsion consisting of a continuous dispersing phase and a dispersed discontinuous aqueous phase.
[0004] O / W emulsions are the most sought after in the cosmetic field, because they contain an aqueous phase as an external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W / O emulsions.
[0005] However, due to their natural nature, conventional oil-in-water emulsions are not entirely satisfactory, particularly in terms of lightening or coloring the skin.
[0006] Efforts have been made to introduce coloring active ingredients into oil-in-water emulsions. However, it is difficult to obtain a stable composition that allows good lightening or coloring of the skin.
[0007] Efforts have also been made to introduce coloring pigments into oil-in-water emulsions. Unfortunately, this type of pigment generally has a negative impact on the stability of the emulsions, which complicates the manufacture of the emulsion somewhat.
[0008] It is also desired that the product for lightening or toning the skin have a suitable viscosity so that there are no droplets falling from the consumer's hand and it is not difficult to apply the product when it is applied to the skin.
[0009] There is therefore a need to formulate a composition for lightening or coloring the skin, which can provide a lightening or coloring effect on the skin, which has a suitable viscosity and which is stable. Summary of the invention
[0010] An object of the present invention is to provide a composition for lightening or coloring the skin, which can provide a lightening or coloring effect on the skin, which has a suitable viscosity and which is stable.
[0011] Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic method for lightening or coloring the skin.
[0012] Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention provides a composition for lightening or coloring the skin in gel form, comprising, in a hydrophilic phase,
[0013] i) at least one white particle;
[0014] ii) at least one acrylic acid polymer;
[0015] iii) at least one polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and
[0016] iv) glycerin.
[0017] Firstly, the composition according to the present invention has a lightening or coloring effect on the skin, in particular human skin.
[0018] Secondly, the composition according to the present invention has a viscosity of between 4500 and 16000 mpa.s as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with an M4 spindle at 25°C, so that no droplets fall from the consumer's hand and it is not difficult to apply the composition to the skin.
[0019] In addition, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time.
[0020] According to another aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic method for lightening or coloring the skin, comprising applying to the skin the composition as defined above.
[0021] Other objects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0022] Unless otherwise indicated, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art. art in the field to which the present invention relates. Where the definition of a term of the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates, the definition described in the present invention will apply.
[0023] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to..."
[0024] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
[0025] Throughout the present application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional and unspecified features. As used herein, the term "comprising" also refers to the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. "consisting of").
[0026] Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about". Therefore, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which may be modified depending on the intended purpose, if necessary.
[0027] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover human skin. Human skin, in particular the skin of the face, neck, back and hand, is particularly considered according to the present invention.
[0028] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise indicated, to a weight percentage.
[0029] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise indicated, to a percentage by weight.
[0030] i) at least one white particle;
[0031] ii) at least one acrylic acid polymer;
[0032] iii) at least one polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and
[0033] iv) glycerin. White particles
[0034] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one white particle.
[0035] By "white" is meant particles having the color white and its derivatives (off-white, alabaster white, etc.), as opposed to primary and derivative colors.
[0036] In some embodiments, the white particles used are inorganic particles.
[0037] In particular, white particles have a luminosity value L * close to 100 in the CIELab76 system.
[0038] Preferably, the white particles are characterized by 0.3 pm < D50 <40 pm.
[0039] The volume average size (D50) is a distribution parameter particle size, referring to the maximum particle diameter below which 50% of the sample volume exists (see in “A Basic Guide To Particle Characterization”, page 10, published by Malvem Instruments Limited in 2012).
[0040] The average particle size (D50) can be measured by static diffraction using a commercially available particle size analyzer such as a Malvern MasterSizer 3000 machine. The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is particularly described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957
[0041] The white particles according to the present invention have a continuous effect, which is controlled by the resolving capacity of the eye. This capacity being of the order of 40 pm, particles are therefore considered to have a volume average size (D50) of less than 40 pm, preferably less than 25 pm and better still less than or equal to 6 pm. However, care is taken to take particles whose D50 is greater than 0.3 pm and better still 0.5 pm, in order not to have too great a loss of opacity, which would be extremely detrimental to the desired effect.
[0042] Consequently, the composition of the present invention preferably comprises at least white particles having a volume size (D50) of less than 40 pm, preferably between 0.3 and 25 pm and better still between 0.3 and 6 pm, or even between 0.5 and 3 pm.
[0043] These particles may be made of a single material or may be composites. For example, these particles may be chosen from boron nitride, silica, pearl, mica, synthetic mica, mica-based pearlescent pigment particles, composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate chosen from alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica and synthetic mica or mixtures thereof.
[0044] According to a preferred embodiment, the particles are boron nitride particles.
[0045] According to another embodiment, the particles are composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and an alumina substrate.
[0046] According to another embodiment, the particles are composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a mica substrate.
[0047] The white particles are advantageously boron nitride particles, preferably having an average volume size of 0.3 to 6 μm.
[0048] Preferably, the white particles according to the present invention have an average refractive index of between 1.4 and 2.2. Indeed, if the particle has a refractive index greater than 2.2, the opacity of the composition is too high and if this index is less than 1.4, the lightening effect is not sufficient. The average refractive index is defined as being the sum of the refractive indices weighted by the weight content in the particle.
[0049] Examples of composite particles that may be mentioned include, in particular, mica platelets (60%) covered with TiO2 (40%), with an average refractive index of 1.9 (0.6x1.5+0.4x2.5); inclusions of titanium oxide (40%) in an alumina matrix (60%), with an average refractive index of 1.96 (0.6x1.6+0.4x2.5).
[0050] The refractive indices of some materials are listed in Table 1:
[0051] [Tables 1] Material Refractive Index Mica 1.4-1.7 Bismuth Oxychloride 2.15 Fe3O4 2.4 TiO2 (anatase) 2.5 TiO2 (rutile) 2.7 Boron Nitride 1.74 Alumina (amorphous) 1.6
[0052] Examples of particles include boron nitride particles, such as PUHP1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics and UHP-1010 from Carborundum.
[0053] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, boron nitride particles having a volume average size D50 of less than 6 μm will be used, such as the boron nitride particles marketed under the name PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, having a volume average size of 3 μm.
[0054] Advantageously, the white particle is present in an amount of between 0.1 and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.15 and 0.8% by weight, better still between 0.2 and 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Acrylic acid polymers
[0055] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one acrylic acid polymer.
[0056] The acrylic acid polymer is selected from homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid containing one or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids.
[0057] By "copolymer" is meant both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.
[0058] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. By “hydrophobic group” or “hydrophobic unit” is meant a radical having a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0059] Preferably, the acrylic acid polymer is chosen from copolymers of:
[0060] at least one monomer of the following formula (1): ( 1 )
[0061] in which Ri denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. the monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid, and
[0062] at least one monomer of the unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl ester type (Ci0-C30) which corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (2): (2)
[0063] in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units) and R3 denotes a C10-C30 alkyl radical.
[0064] The C10-C30 alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate and mixtures thereof.
[0065] Preferably, the acrylic acid polymer is crosslinked.
[0066] Among the acrylic polymers of this type, copolymers resulting from the polymerization of
[0067] (i) acrylic acid,
[0068] an ester of formula (2) described above in which R2 denotes H or CH3 and R3 denotes an alkyl radical having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and
[0069] (iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
[0070] More particularly, those composed of 95% to 60% of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% of crosslinking polymerizable monomer or those composed of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described above, will be used.
[0071] Particularly preferred according to the present invention, among the above polymers, are acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). These copolymers are commercially available under the name Carbopol® 1342, Carbopol® 1382, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2, from BF Goodrich.
[0072] Preferably, the acrylic acid polymer is present in an amount of between 0.1% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 2% by weight, more preferably between 0.3% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. AMPS polymers
[0073] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer.
[0074] AMPS polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or not, comprising at least the monomer acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally in a form partially or totally neutralized by ammonia, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Representative AMPS polymers are those commercially available from THE LUBRIZOL CORPORATION under the name AMPS®.
[0075] The AMPS polymers are preferably completely neutralized or almost completely neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.
[0076] When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
[0077] As crosslinking agents, mention may be made of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, diallyl ether hydroquinone, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar series alcohols, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives or mixtures of these compounds.
[0078] Preferably, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
[0079] The AMPS polymer according to the present invention is water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are:
[0080] - “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;
[0081] - or “copolymers” polymerized from AMPS and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents as defined above. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers may not comprise any fatty chain and are preferably present in small quantities.
[0082] For the purposes of the AMPS polymer according to the present invention, the term “fatty chain” means any hydrocarbon chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.
[0083] The term “water-soluble or water-dispersible” means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution having a maximum light transmission value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably at least 70%.
[0084] The “homopolymers” according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized.
[0085] The AMPS homopolymers according to the invention are preferably homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as, for example, poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) marketed by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS® (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide).
[0086] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the present invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.
[0087] Water-soluble comonomers can be ionic or non-ionic.
[0088] Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, the following compounds and their salts may be mentioned, by way of example:
[0089] - (meth)acrylic acid,
[0090] - styrene sulfonic acid,
[0091] - vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,
[0092] - vinylphosphonic acid,
[0093] - maleic acid,
[0094] - itaconic acid,
[0095] - crotonic acid,
[0096] - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below:
[0097] where:
[0098] - Ri is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7
[0099] - - Xi is chosen from alkyl ethers of type -OR2 in which R2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulfonic radical (-SO3-) and / or (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-).
[0100] Among the non-ionic water-soluble comonomers, we can cite by way of example:
[0101] - (meth)acrylamide,
[0102] - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,
[0103] - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,
[0104] - maleic anhydride,
[0105] - vinylamine,
[0106] - N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing 4 with 9 carbon atoms, such as n-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
[0107] - vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,
[0108] - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below:
[0109] where:
[0110] - R45 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7
[0111] - X2 is chosen from alkyl ethers of type -ORi6 where Ri6 is a radical linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl group (-OH); ether.
[0112] Examples include glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.
[0113] Among the hydrophobic comonomers without fatty chain, we can cite as an example:
[0114] styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, α-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene,
[0115] - vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3;
[0116] - vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a radical linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon having from 1 to 6 carbons;
[0117] - acrylonitrile,
[0118] - caprolactone,
[0119] - vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride,
[0120] - silicone derivatives, which provide silicone polymers after polymerization, such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides,
[0121] - the hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below:
[0122] where:
[0123] - R23 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7
[0124] - X3 is chosen from the following elements:
[0125] - alkyl ethers of type -OR24 in which R24 is a hydrocarbon radical linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0126] Examples include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate, and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.
[0127] The AMPS polymer of the present invention preferably has a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.
[0128] Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers in accordance with the present invention include crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as the polymer of the commercial product Simulgel® 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate); or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate. For example, the crosslinked AMPS copolymer is Aristoflex® HMS, a crosslinked polymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate (INCI name: ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate); The uncrosslinked AMPS copolymer is Aristoflex® SNC, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer.
[0129] As examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of:
[0130] - crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers of sodium, such as the copolymer of the commercial product Sepigel® 305 (ICTFA name: Polyacrylamide / Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the trade name Simulgel® 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Poly sorbate80) by the company SEPPIC;
[0131] - copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex® by the company Clariant (CFTA name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;
[0132] - copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate such as, for example, AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer of the commercial product sold under the name Simulgell® EG by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80);
[0133] - copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as, for example, the AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer of the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate-60).
[0134] - the crosslinked polymer ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / methacrylate steareth-25 .
[0135] Preferred polymers are more particularly sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymer, such as the homopolymer used in the commercial product Sepigel® or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS, or the crosslinked polymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate.
[0136] Advantageously, the AMPS polymer is present in an amount of between 1% and 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 1% by weight, better still between 0.3% and 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the Glycerin composition.
[0137] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises glycerin.
[0138] Advantageously, the glycerin is present in an amount of between 25% and 80% by weight, preferably between 25% and 60% by weight, better still between 30% and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0139] For the purposes of the present invention, preferably the weight ratio of AMPS polymer to glycerin is between 1:200 and 1:20, preferably between 1:150 and 1:40. Additional polyols
[0140] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one additional polyol other than glycerin.
[0141] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises additional polyol other than glycerin comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, for example at least one glycol, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol.
[0142] In certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and a combination thereof.
[0143] In a highly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.
[0144] Advantageously, if present, the additional polyol other than glycerin is present in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably from 15% by weight to 45% by weight, more preferably from 18% by weight to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] Due to the presence of the additional polyol other than glycerin, the composition according to the present invention can provide a feeling of freshness to the skin.
[0146] For the purposes of the present invention, preferably, the weight ratio of the acrylic acid polymer to the additional polyol other than glycerin is between 1:200 and 1:20, preferably between 1:150 and 1:30. Additional active ingredients
[0147] In addition to the white particle, the composition according to the present invention may comprise an additional active ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic field.
[0148] According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one additional active agent having an effect on the skin, in particular antioxidants such as ascorbic acid and polygonum cuspidatum root extract, anti-free radicals such as ferulic acid, moisturizers, liporegulators, anti-acne agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-aging agents, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-inflammatories, refreshing agents, healing agents, vascular protective agents, antibacterials, antifungals, exfoliating agents, antiperspirants, deodorants, skin conditioners, desensitizing agents, immunomodulators and nourishing agents, moisture absorbers, soothing active agents and sebum-absorbing active agents.
[0149] Preferably, the additional active ingredient contained in the composition according to the present invention is water-soluble.
[0150] The additional active ingredients and their concentrations may be adjusted based on the desired properties of the composition of the present invention. Adjuvants
[0151] In a known manner, the composition of the present invention may also contain one or more additional adjuvants usual in cosmetics or dermatology.
[0152] Examples of additional adjuvants include preservatives, pH adjusting agents, perfumes, pigments and mixtures thereof.
[0153] A person skilled in the art can choose the amount of additional adjuvants so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0154] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for lightening or coloring the skin in the form of a gel, comprising, in a hydrophilic phase relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0155] i) from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of boron nitride;
[0156] ii) from 0.3 to 1% by weight of acrylate / Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate copolymer;
[0157] iii) from 0.3% to 0.7% by weight of at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer selected from acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, crosslinked polymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate and steareth-25 methacrylate and a combination thereof.
[0158] iv) from 30 to 50% by weight of glycerin and
[0159] v) from 18 to 35% by weight of at least one additional polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and a combination thereof.
[0160] The composition according to the present invention may be anhydrous.
[0161] By "anhydrous" is meant that no water is added on purpose and that the water content of the composition is less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, particularly less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, there is no water in the composition.
[0162] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise a surfactant. Method and use
[0163] The composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and may in particular constitute a composition intended to lighten or color the skin, and in particular human skin.
[0164] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process aimed at lightening or coloring the skin, comprising the application to the skin of the composition as defined above.
[0165] In particular, the skin is human skin.
[0166] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes.
[0167] In the examples which follow, the percentages by weight are indicated relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Examples
[0168] The main raw materials used, the trade names and the suppliers of these materials are listed in Table 2.
[0169] [Tables2] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Glycerin CREMERGLYC REFINED GL YCERINE 99.7% RSPO MB CREMER OLEO (IOI) Ascorbic Acid ASCORBIC ACID (L) RECKON ORGANICS Dipropylene glycol DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL LO + DOW Ferulic Acid ORYZA FERULIX ORYZA OIL & FAT CHEMICAL Eu spidatum polygonum root extract POLYGONUM CUSPIDAT UM ROOT EXTRACT GUILIN LAYN NAT URAL INGREDIENT S Propylene glycol 1,2-PROPYLENEGLYCOL CA RE BASF Boron Nitride SP2 SAINT GOBAIN CE RAMICS Polyacrylo yldimethylammonium taurate HOSTACERIN AMPS CLARIANT Acrylates / C10-30' alkyl acrylate crosspolymer CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21 PO LYMER LUBRIZOL Silica silylate FINE PARTICLE AEROGEL TLD201 CABOT Poloxamer 338 SYNPERONIC PE / F 108-NAA -FL-(CQ) CRODA Xanthan gum KELTROL® CG-T CP KELCO Tween 20 SP TWEEN 20 MBAL-LQ-(CQ) CRODA
[0170] Examples of inventions 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-6
[0171] Compositions of inventive examples (IE) 1-5 and comparative examples (CE) 1-6 were prepared according to the amounts indicated in Table 3. The amount of each component is given in % by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.
[0172] [Tables3] Components Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 CE. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 CE. 4 CE. 5 CE. 6 Glycerin 43.47 43.27 43.07 42.57 42.07 43.14 42.07 43.14 42.07 42.07 42.07 Ascorbic acid 12.63 12.63 12.63 12.63 12.63 12.63 12.63 12.63 12.63 12.63 12.63 12.63 12.63 Dipropylene glycol 17.1 17.1 17.1 17.1 17.1 17.1 17.1 17.1 17.1 17.1 17.1 Ferulic acid 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 Cuspi datum polygo num root extract 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Propylene glycol 23.5 23.5 23.5 23.5 23.5 23.5 23.5 23.5 23.5 23.5 23.5 Boron nitride 0.3 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Polyacryloyldimethylammonium taurate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.5 0.3 1 0.3 1 1 1 Crosslinked polymer of acrylates / Cl 0-30' alkyl acrylate 0.3 0.3 0.5 1 0.3 Silica silylate - - - - - 1 1 - - - - Poloxamer 3 38 - - - - - - - 1 1 - - Xanthan gum - - - - - - - 1 Tween 20 - - - - - - - - 1
[0173] The compositions of the comparative invention 1-2 comprise silica silylate in place of the acrylic acid polymer
[0174] The compositions of the comparative invention 3-4 comprise poloxamer 338 in place of the acrylic acid polymer.
[0175] The composition of the comparative invention 5 comprises xanthan gum in place of the acrylic acid polymer.
[0176] The composition of comparative invention 6 comprises Tween 20 instead of the acrylic acid polymer.
[0177] Preparation procedure:
[0178] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking as an example the composition of formula 1 of the invention:
[0179] 1). Mix the glycerin, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol and heat the mixing at 80°C;
[0180] 2) add ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate and a crosslinked polymer of acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate in the stirred mixture;
[0181] 3). Add the rest of the ingredients to obtain the composition. Assessment
[0182] Each composition of inventive examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 6 was evaluated in terms of viscosity and stability. Viscosity
[0183] The viscosity was measured at 25°C, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with an M4 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in a sample (time after which stabilization of the viscosity and the rotation speed of the spindle are observed), at a shear rate of 200 rpm. Stability
[0184] Stability was assessed as follows:
[0185] 1) filling 40 ml of a sample into a 60 ml glass bottle and preparation of six bottles for each composition to be tested;
[0186] 2) put a bottle in the sun (for the sun test), a bottle at room temperature ambient (RM, 20°C), one bottle in a refrigerator at 4°C, one bottle in an oven at 37°C, and one bottle in an oven at 45°C (for stability tests at different temperatures), and one bottle in an oven with a temperature cycle from -20°C to 20°C every 24 hours (for cycle stability); and
[0187] 3) observe the appearance of the samples after 24 hours for the sun test, 2 months for stability tests at different temperatures or 10 days for cycle stability.
[0188] Stability will be evaluated as a PASS if the composition remains a uniform gel after all stability tests at different temperatures and the cycle stability test, otherwise it will be evaluated as a FAIL.
[0189] The viscosity and stability of the compositions according to the comparative examples and the inventive examples have been listed in Table 4.
[0190] [Tables4] Properties Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 CE. 1 CE. 2 CE.3 CE.4 CE.5 CE. 6 Viscosity (* 103mpa.s) 8.25 8.25 9.3 15 12. 16.5 15 19 15.5 8 8 Stability in sunlight PASS Fail RM PASS Fail 4°C PASS PASS 37°C PASS FAIL 45°C PASS FAIL cycle PASS FAIL
[0191] It is also noted that the composition according to the present invention has a viscosity suitable for topical application and is stable.
[0192] Furthermore, the composition of examples 1 to 5 of the invention can provide a lightening or coloring effect to the skin.
Claims
Claims
1. Anhydrous composition for lightening or coloring the skin in the form of a gel comprising, in a hydrophilic phase: i) at least one white particle; ii) at least one acrylic acid polymer; iii) at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer and iv) glycerin.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the white particles are selected from boron nitride, silica, pearl, mica, synthetic mica, mica-based pearlescent pigment particles, composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica and synthetic mica, or mixtures thereof.
3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the acrylic acid polymer is selected from homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid containing one or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the acrylic acid polymer is chosen from copolymers of: at least one monomer of the following formula (1): (1) in which R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5, and at least one monomer of the unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl ester type (C 10 -C 30) which corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (2): (2) in which R 2 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 and R 3 denotes a C 10 -C 30 alkyl radical, preferably, the acrylic acid polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of: (i) acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (2) described above in which R2 denotes H or CH3 and R3 denotes an alkyl radical having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and (iii) a crosslinking agent chosen from diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide, more preferably, the acrylic acid polymer is an acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, where the AMPS polymer is chosen from homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or not, comprising at least the monomer acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally in a form partially or totally neutralized by ammonia, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the AMPS polymer is selected from sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymer, or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate homopolymer, AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising an additional polyol other than glycerin comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably the additional polyol is selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and a combination thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising, in a hydrophilic phase, relative to the total weight of the composition: i) from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of boron nitride; ii) from 0.3% to 1% by weight of acrylate / Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate copolymer; iii) from 0.3% to 0.7% by weight of at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer chosen from acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, acryloyldimethyltaurate crosslinked polymer ammonium / steareth-25 methacrylate and a combination thereof; iv) 30 to 50% by weight of glycerin and v) 18 to 35% by weight of at least one additional polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and a combination thereof.
9. A cosmetic process for lightening or coloring the skin, comprising applying to the skin the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.