Solid cosmetic hair care composition comprising at least one cavity

Abstract

Solid cosmetic hair care composition comprising at least one cavity The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic hair and / or scalp care composition, comprising at least one hair active ingredient, characterized in that said composition comprises at least one cavity such that said composition comprises a porosity greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition, as well as associated manufacturing processes. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Solid cosmetic hair care composition comprising at least one cavity

[0001] The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition dedicated to the care of the hair and / or the scalp.

[0002] The field of solid cosmetics generally concerns skin or hair cleansing products, in particular soaps or shampoos, or makeup. In particular, solid cosmetics has very little interest in the field of hair and / or scalp care.

[0003] The solid products currently marketed are essentially in the form of sticks, powders to be dispersed or pads (or wipes) to be dispersed, generally based on water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol (PVA or PVOH).

[0004] However, such solid compositions, generally anhydrous, are not entirely satisfactory.

[0005] Sticks generally have insufficient performance in terms of deposit homogeneity, comfort, sensoriality and / or hydration. Indeed, these deposits are generally greasy and / or sticky. Furthermore, their use involves repeated contact between the solid composition and the area to be treated, which, for obvious reasons, is not very hygienic. What is more, the degradation of the sticks and / or their breakage and / or disintegration before their total consumption generate waste, and therefore waste.

[0006] Concerning the powders to be dispersed, these are generally water-soluble or water-dispersible powders to which it is often difficult to add the right amount of water to achieve the desired final liquid composition. Furthermore, their dispersion in an aqueous medium is often perceived by the user as a disappointing experience because it is of poor quality. Finally, this galenic form makes it difficult to have a fatty (or oily) phase, and therefore the presence of lipophilic active ingredients. This explains, at least in part, why this type of composition generally has unsatisfactory sensoriality and effectiveness.

[0007] As for the pads, this is a falsely ecological solution because, dissolved in water, polyvinyl alcohol pollutes groundwater. In addition, it is known that polyvinyl alcohol generally gives a sticky and unpleasant texture.

[0008] Furthermore, solid cosmetic care compositions in the form of single doses generally comprise a lot of packaging, at least partly disposable and / or have properties that are not entirely satisfactory in terms of grip, ease of application, sensoriality, hydration and / or comfort on application.

[0009] The present invention aims to overcome the aforementioned drawbacks by proposing solid cosmetic hair care compositions, in particular in single-dose form, guaranteeing good grip by the user, direct and comfortable application, economical in packaging, and which allows the presence of a fatty (or oily) phase and therefore the presence of lipophilic active ingredients. Composition

[0010] The invention thus relates to a solid cosmetic composition for hair and / or scalp care, comprising at least one hair active ingredient, characterized in that said composition comprises at least one cavity such that said composition comprises a porosity greater than or equal to 20%, preferably greater than or equal to 30%, better still greater than or equal to 40%, in particular greater than or equal to 50%, or even greater than or equal to 60%, in particular greater than or equal to 70%, and very particularly greater than or equal to 80%, by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition.

[0011] Thus, a composition according to the invention may remain endowed with a size and / or a volume similar to current solid care compositions but differ by the presence of at least one cavity such that the porosity of said composition is greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of said composition.

[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" is intended to denote a composition which, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, is not capable of collapsing under its own weight. Advantageously, it is intended to denote any composition having a compressive strength greater than or equal to 20 g, preferably greater than or equal to 50 g, and better still greater than or equal to 100 g, at room temperature (20-25°C), after penetration by a cylindrical probe of revolution having a diameter of 0.8 cm into the matrix of the composition to a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 0.5 mm / s and removal of said probe from the matrix of the composition at a speed of 0.5 mm / s; the compressive strength being measured with an analyzer of the "LFRA Texture Analyzer" type marketed by the company STEVENS / MECHTRIC.

[0013] A composition according to the invention is not in the form of a paste. A composition according to the invention is not a powdery composition, and is therefore not in the form of a powder. Finally, a composition according to the invention is also not a porous solid derived from the agglomeration of powders. According to a first embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be an expanded composition, and therefore may be in the form of a foam. According to a second embodiment, a composition according to the invention is not an expanded composition, and therefore is not in the form of a foam.

[0014] A composition according to the invention is not in the form of a mask.

[0015] By "porosity", for the purposes of the present invention, is meant all of the voids of a solid material, these voids being able to be filled by fluids, in particular water, when the solid composition is placed in the presence of an aqueous solution, for example water such as tap water.

[0016] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cavity" is understood to mean an empty space inside a solid body and which communicates directly with the external environment, for example like the cavities illustrated in Figures 1 to 3 and 6. A cavity can therefore be designated indifferently by the terms "orifice", "pore" or "hole". Advantageously, the cavity(ies) is / are through, that is to say that the cavity designates an empty space inside a solid body and which communicates directly with the external environment on either side of the solid body.

[0017] Thus, the volume of the cavity(ies) in a solid composition according to the invention represents at least 20%, in particular at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, or even at least 60%, in particular at least 70%, and very particularly at least 80%, of the total volume of said solid composition.

[0018] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention has a density of between 0.2 and 0.8, preferably between 0.3 and 0.7, in particular between 0.4 and 0.6.

[0019] A solid composition according to the invention may have a total volume of between 0.125 cm3 and 100 cm3, preferably between 0.250 cm3 and 75 cm3, in particular between 0.5 cm3 and 50 cm3, better still between 1 cm3 and 25 cm3, and very particularly between 2.5 cm3 and 15 cm3.

[0020] A solid composition according to the invention may have a weight of between 0.025 g and 200 g, preferably between 0.25 g and 150 g, in particular between 0.5 g and 100 g, better still between 1 g and 75 g, very particularly between 2.5 g and 50 g, or even between 5 g and 25 g (“g” corresponding to the unit “gram”).

[0021] According to a first preferred embodiment, a solid composition according to the invention comprises a ratio between the volume of the cavities and the total volume of the composition of between 0.05 and 0.9, preferably between 0.1 and 0.8, better still between 0.2 and 0.7, or even between 0.2 and 0.6.

[0022] By “total volume” is meant the volume resulting from the sum of the volume of solid and the volume of the cavities.

[0023] In the context of the present invention, the cavities can be described as macroporosity, that is to say pores whose minimum width, or even diameter, is greater than or equal to 1 mm, or even between 1 mm and 2 cm, preferably between 2 mm and 1 cm, in particular between 3 mm and 75 mm, better still between 4 mm and 50 mm, and very particularly between 5 mm and 25 mm.

[0024] The presence of cavities in the contents and / or volumes and / or dimensions considered above makes it possible to access solid compositions that require less raw materials while still having satisfactory gripping properties. The solid composition according to the invention is therefore capable of generating less loss. This weight saving also has the advantage of allowing less polluting and less costly transport. A solid composition according to the invention is therefore advantageous both ecologically and economically.

[0025] Furthermore, the inventors observed an unexpected effect when a solid composition according to the invention is placed in the presence of an aqueous phase. Indeed, the inventors observed that a solid composition according to the invention, in contact with an aqueous phase, produces a greater quantity of foam more quickly than with a solid composition of the same size and volume but without a cavity, or even exhibits faster transformation kinetics between the original solid state to a liquid state, for example of the gel or cream type.Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the inventors believe that the presence of cavity(ies) within the solid composition makes it possible to facilitate the transition to a viscous liquid composition, for example when the solid composition is mixed with the hands, or allows an increase in the contact surface with the aqueous phase, in particular water, and therefore better hydration of said solid composition.

[0026] Thus, the invention even makes it possible to adjust the speed at which the solid composition will foam, swell and / or melt, by adjusting the surface area developed at constant volume, by adjusting the percentage of porosity, and more particularly by adjusting the shape and / or the number and / or the dimensions of the cavities, or even the number of walls and / or the thickness of the walls of the cavities.

[0027] Advantageously, the size and / or volume of the cavities can be adjusted to store and / or react the right amount of water necessary to achieve a final liquid composition with satisfactory / expected properties, or even optimized and / or homogeneous properties (i.e. between different single doses), for example in terms of viscosity, hydration, ease of spreading, and / or transformative effect.

[0028] Thus, a composition according to the invention even makes it possible to access evanescent compositions, namely those capable of transforming into liquid compositions, in particular in the form of gels or creams, upon contact with an adequate quantity of water.

[0029] Finally, the inventors observed that the porous structure of a solid composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain deposits on the hair and / or the scalp which are more homogeneous, even without resorting to application members.

[0030] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is a single-dose composition. This embodiment is particularly advantageous from a hygienic point of view in that it avoids repeated contact between the solid composition and the hair and / or the scalp. This embodiment also allows easy adaptation for the user of the desired cosmetic effect depending on his state of mind (mood), his clothing style and / or the time of day.

[0031] Thus, the invention also relates to a packaging comprising several solid compositions according to the invention in the form of single doses of different active ingredients / cosmetic effects. Thus, the invention relates to a packaging comprising several solid compositions according to the invention, preferably in the form of single doses, said compositions comprising different hair active ingredients and / or hair active ingredient contents. This packaging therefore has the advantage of ensuring easy personalization of the treatment for the user depending on their state of mind (mood), their clothing style and / or the time of day.

[0032] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is a topical composition. A composition according to the invention is not an oral composition.

[0033] A solid composition according to the invention may have any shape, for example a spherical, ellipsoidal, tetrahedral, or even polygonal shape, in particular in the shape of a parallelogram, preferably a right-angled parallelogram.

[0034] Preferably, in particular to ensure good grip, a solid composition according to the invention has:

[0035] - a width, or even a diameter, between 1 cm and 10 cm, preferably between 2 cm and 8 cm, especially between 3 cm and 6 cm, and better between 4 cm and 5 cm; and / or

[0036] - a height (or thickness) of between 0.5 cm and 5 cm, preferably between 1 cm and 4 cm, and in particular between 2 cm and 3 cm.

[0037] The cavity(ies) of a solid composition according to the invention may be of any shape, for example round, oblong, ovoid, triangular, polygonal, in particular hexagonal, honeycomb, or in the form of a tiling (or cutting), for example of the Voronoi diagram type, preferably in the form of a honeycomb, as illustrated in Figures 3 and 6.

[0038] The cavity(ies) of a solid composition according to the invention may also represent letters or the logo of a brand or company, as illustrated in [Fig.2]

[0039] A solid composition according to the invention comprises one or more cavities, preferably several cavities, identical or different.

[0040] According to a first variant, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one cavity, in particular a through cavity.

[0041] According to a second preferred variant, a composition according to the invention comprises several cavities, in particular through cavities, as illustrated in Figures 3 and 6.

[0042] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least two cavities connected to each other. Such an embodiment is advantageous because it makes it possible to promote capillarity phenomena when brought into contact with water, which makes it possible to improve the aforementioned technical effects.

[0043] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention comprises several cavities which adopt a honeycomb-shaped structure, as illustrated in [Fig.3]. This honeycomb shape is particularly advantageous in that it allows the manufacture of solid composition with a very interesting “volume of the cavity(ies) / total volume of the composition” ratio, in particular greater than or equal to 0.5, or even greater than or equal to 0.75, without prejudice to the gripping and robustness of said composition to the mechanical stresses likely to be applied to it and / or to storage. In other words, this honeycomb structure offers an excellent compromise between cavity volume and mechanical strength.

[0044] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention comprises several cavities which adopt a honeycomb-shaped structure comprising walls having a thickness of between 10 qm and 600 qm, preferably between 20 qm and 500 qm, in particular between 30 qm and 400 qm, very particularly between 50 qm and 300 qm, or even between 100 qm and 200 qm.

[0045] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise additional patterns distinct from the cavities, said patterns being able for example to be produced by embossing.

[0046] According to a first variant, a composition according to the invention is anhydrous. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" is intended to denote a composition which, before any contact with water, comprises a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and in particular less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0047] According to a second variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a continuous fatty phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. Thus, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oily (or fatty) phase which further comprises at least one dispersed aqueous phase, for example in encapsulated form such as for example in the form of matrix spheres (or pearls or beads) or of core / shell type (or capsules), for example in the form of capsules as described in WO2010063937.

[0048] According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water in the dispersed aqueous phase can then be between 0.5 and 50%, preferably between 1 and 40%, in particular between 2.5 and 30%, and better still between 5 and 20%, by weight relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0049] Preferably, the solid nature of a composition according to the invention is based on the presence of a fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent. Fat phase

[0050] The dispersed fatty phase of a composition according to the invention has a melting point of between 50°C and 100°C, preferably between 60°C and 90°C.

[0051] The melting point of a fatty phase can be measured using a calorimeter at Differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments. The sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: a 5 mg sample of the sample to be tested, previously heated to 80°C and taken under magnetic stirring using a heated spatula, is placed in a hermetic aluminum dish, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results. The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above. The furnace is subjected to a nitrogen flush. Cooling is provided by the RCS 90 heat exchanger.The sample is then subjected to the following protocol by first being brought to a temperature of 20°C, then subjected to a first temperature rise from 20°C to 130°C, at a heating rate of 5°C / minute, then cooled from 130°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 5°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -80°C to 130°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature. The end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted. Lipophilic gelling agent

[0052] A composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0053] The lipophilic gelling agent according to the invention may be chosen from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; fatty substances which are solid at room temperature and pressure; and mixtures thereof.

[0054] The fatty substances which are solid at room temperature and pressure are preferably chosen from at least one wax, at least one pasty fatty substance, at least one butter, and their mixtures.

[0055] Advantageously, a lipophilic gelling agent is a heat-sensitive gelling agent, namely one which reacts to heat, and in particular is a gelling agent which is solid at room temperature and liquid at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 60°C, and better still above 70°C. Preferably, a heat-sensitive lipophilic gelling agent according to the invention has a melting point of between 50°C and 130°C, and preferably between 60°C and 120°C.

[0056] As lipophilic gelling agent(s), mention may be made, for example, of those described in WO2021234135.

[0057] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, notably marketed under the name Estogel M by PolymerExpert, Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer and its derivatives, notably marketed respectively under the names Estogel Green (or Estogel G) and Estogel Green 40 by PolymerExpert Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Poly-urethane-79, notably marketed under the name OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer by the company Lubrizol, Trihydroxystearin, notably marketed under the name THIXCIN® R by the company Elementis Specialties, and their mixtures, and better Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0058] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 10% to 90%, preferably from 20% to 80%, in particular from 30% to 70%, and better still from 40% to 60%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0059] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil. The term “oil” means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0060] As oils according to the invention, we can cite for example:

[0061] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, as described below;

[0062] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

[0063] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the residue of a C8 to C29 fatty acid, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched C3 to C30 hydrocarbon chain, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, dii-sostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol di-heptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631);

[0064] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;

[0065] - silicone oils, such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or not with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

[0066] - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or octyldodecanol;

[0067] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0068] - and their mixtures.

[0069] Examples of oils that may be mentioned are those described in WO2021234135.

[0070] A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one vegetable oil, such as for example copra oil, coconut oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, castor oil, babassu oil, avocado oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 10% to 90%, preferably from 20% to 80%, in particular from 30% to 70%, and better still from 40% to 60%, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive, at least one oil and their mixtures. Hair active agent

[0073] A solid composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase and / or the dispersed aqueous phase (when present), comprises at least one hair active agent.

[0074] As hair active agents according to the invention, mention may be made of those usually used for hair and / or scalp care compositions.

[0075] In particular, as hair active agent according to the invention, mention may be made of surfactants; fixing polymers, in particular those listed in applications FR2964565 or US2013289080; conditioning agents (or “conditioning agents”), in particular chosen from cationic conditioning agents; fatty substances other than the aforementioned oils and lipophilic gelling agents; polysaccharides, in particular chitosans or their derivatives; anti-UV agents (or UV filters), in particular those described in FR3041251; fillers such as nacres, titanium dioxide, resins or clays, and mixtures thereof; perfumes (or perfuming agents); peptizing agents; acidic agents; alkaline agents; reducing agents; oxidizing agents; direct dyes or oxidation dyes; and mixtures thereof.

[0076] In particular, a solid composition according to the invention comprises between 0.0001% and 60%, preferably between 0.001% and 50%, in particular between 0.01% and 40%, in particular better between 0.1% and 35%, and preferably between 1% and 25%, by weight of hair active ingredient(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0077] According to one embodiment, the solid hair composition according to the invention may comprise at least one surfactant, in particular a cationic, non-ionic, anionic, amphoteric surfactant, and mixtures thereof. Such surfactants are chosen from those commonly used for hair compositions.

[0078] As conditioning agent, mention may be made of cationic polymers, in particular lipophilic polymers, preferably amodimethicone or an ingredient as described in the patent application filed under No. FR2205170.

[0079] As conditioning agents, amidoamine compounds may also be mentioned. Examples of amidoamines that are useful in the compositions of the invention include, but are not limited to, the following: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyaamidopropyl dimethylamine, wheat germamidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflower seedamidopropyl dimethylamine, almondamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, visonamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine,palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] As Linoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Dimer Dilinoleate, we can for example cite the raw material marketed by ALZO International Inc. under the name Necon LO-80.

[0081] In certain other embodiments, the cationic conditioning agents may be selected from monoalkyl quaternary amines, dialkyl quaternary amines or polyquaternium compounds or their salts.

[0082] For example, the cationic conditioning agents may be selected from Polyquaterium-10 (also known as quaternized polyhydroxyethylcellulose), cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, steartrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, ba- bassuamidopropalkonium, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, Quatemium-91, Poly-quatemium-37 (e.g. under the brand name SALCARE), Quatemium-22, Quaternium-87, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquatemium-6, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-67, amodimethicone, lauryl betaine, Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer, stear-dimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, ami-nopropyl dimethicone, Quaternium-8, and PEG-7 dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] Dans certains modes de réalisation, les polymères cationiques peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi les suivants : polyquatemium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquatemium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32, polyquaternium-46, polyquatemium-51 , poly-quatemium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, poly-quatemium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, poly-quatemium-60, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, poly-quatemium-66, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-70, polyquaternium-73, poly-quatemium-74, polyquaternium-75, polyquaternium-76, polyquaternium-77, poly-quatemium-78, polyquaternium-79, polyquaternium-80, polyquaternium-81 , poly-quatemium-82, polyquaternium-84, polyquaternium-85, polyquaternium-86, poly-quatemium-87, polyquaternium-90, polyquaternium-91, polyquaternium-92, poly-quatemium-94, ou le chlorure de guar hydroxypropyltrimonium,and mixtures thereof.

[0084] According to one embodiment, the cationic conditioning agent is selected from Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-37, or mixtures thereof. For example, Polyquaternium-37 is commercially available from BASF under the brand name SALCARE SC 96 (comprising Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6), and mixtures thereof.

[0085] As fatty substances, mention may be made, for example, of fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, their derivatives or a mixture thereof. More particularly, the fatty substance is:

[0086] - a fatty ester chosen from cetyl ester, purcellin oil (octanoate of cetearyl), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hydroxylated esters and pentaerythritol esters, and mixtures thereof;

[0087] - a fatty alcohol chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, do- decyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof;

[0088] - a polyol chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof; and

[0089] - their mixtures.

[0090] As peptizing agents, acidic agents, alkaline agents, reducing agents or oxidizing agents, mention may be made of those usually used for hair and / or scalp care compositions.

[0091] As acidic agents, mention may be made, for example, of lactic acid and / or citric acid. As alkaline agents, mention may be made, for example, of sodium hydroxide, ammonia and / or arginine. As reducing agents, mention may be made, for example, of thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid and / or thioglyoxilic acid. As oxidizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of hydrogen peroxide and / or urea peroxide. Additional compounds

[0092] A composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase, or even the dispersed aqueous phase when present, may further comprise at least one additional compound different from the lipophilic gelling agents, oils and hair active ingredients mentioned above.

[0093] A composition according to the invention may also comprise powders; glitter; coloring agents, in particular chosen from water-soluble or non-water-soluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic coloring agents, materials with an optical effect, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof; particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase; preservatives; humectants; fillers with a blurring effect; effervescent agents; disintegrating agents (e.g. croscarmellose, carboxymethylcellulose, etc.); stabilizers; chelators; emollients; modifying agents chosen from texturizing agents (or gelling agents) and in particular hydrophilic gelling agents, pH, osmotic force and / or refractive index modifiers, etc., or any usual cosmetic additive; and mixtures thereof.

[0094] For the purposes of the invention, the term “particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase” means the group consisting of pigments, ceramics, polymers, in particular acrylic polymers, and their mixtures.

[0095] As hydrophilic gelling agents, we can for example cite those described in FR3041251.

[0096] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one biological / cosmetic active ingredient other than the hair active ingredient. As biological / cosmetic active ingredients, mention may be made of moisturizing agents, vitamins, healing agents, anti-wrinkle or anti-aging agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, active ingredients stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecular agents, dermo-contracting agents, antiperspirant agents, soothing agents and / or anti-aging agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Such biological / cosmetic agents are notably described in more detail in FR3041251.

[0098] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one solvent capable of evaporating in whole or in part during the manufacturing process, as described below. As solvent, mention may for example be made of an apolar or slightly polar organic solvent, for example cyclohexane, THF (tetrahydrofuran), and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention does not comprise polyvinyl alcohol (PVA or PVOH), polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF), polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), polyacrylonitrile (PES or PAN), poly-polyethylene terephthalate methacrylate, polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, hyaluronic acid, starch, cellulose (eg rayon) and / or cotton.

[0100] A composition according to the invention does not comprise a water-soluble solid support, for example of the hydrogel type, in particular based on starch, where appropriate destructured, and / or poloxamer 407.

[0101] Advantageously, a solid composition according to the invention is not made up of a network of fibers.

[0102] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the raw materials, ingredient(s), active ingredient(s) and / or additional compound(s) described above and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. Also, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the nature and / or the quantity of raw materials, ingredient(s), active ingredient(s) and / or additional compound(s) described above according to the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase considered and / or with regard to the manufacturing process of the composition. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0103] The solid nature of a composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to do without conventional packaging. Indeed, the packaging of a solid composition according to the invention can, for example, be limited to a simple package such as a sheet of paper. Manufacturing process

[0104] A composition according to the invention is obtained by any process known to man of the trade adapted to the manufacture of a solid composition, subject to the necessary adaptations to ensure the formation of cavities and therefore satisfy the required porosity criterion. Process No. 1

[0105] According to a first variant, a method for manufacturing a composition according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0106] (i) having a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0107] (ii) pouring the composition into a mold and drying until a solid composition is obtained,

[0108] (iii) cutting the solid composition into the desired shape, and

[0109] (iv) forming cavities to obtain a solid composition according to the invention.

[0110] Step (i) is advantageously carried out hot.

[0111] Advantageously, steps (iii) and (iv) are simultaneous.

[0112] Advantageously, steps (ii), (iii) and (iv) are simultaneous, in which case the mold has a shape adapted to ensure the formation of the cavity(ies).

[0113] Step (iv) is advantageously carried out using a cookie cutter.

[0114] Process No. 1 is advantageous in that the scraps obtained at the end of step (iv) can be recovered during subsequent manufacturing. Indeed, these scraps can be heated again and reintroduced into a subsequent process No. 1 at step (i) and / or (ii). Process No. 2

[0115] According to a second variant, a method of manufacturing a composition according to the invention is an extrusion method.

[0116] Such a manufacturing method according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0117] (a) having a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0118] (b) passing the composition of step (a) through an extrusion device provided of a die (or extrusion grid) of suitable shape to form a solid bar, and

[0119] (c) cutting the bar obtained in step (b) to obtain a solid composition according to the invention.

[0120] For obvious reasons, step (b) is carried out at a temperature suitable for providing a composition with sufficient viscosity and capable of retaining the shape assigned by the die.

[0121] For obvious reasons, the shape of the die of the extrusion device is also adapted to ensure the formation of the cavity(ies).

[0122] Advantageously, step (b) is carried out at a temperature lower than room temperature, and for example at a temperature lower than or equal to 15°C, or even less than or equal to 10°C.

[0123] At step (b), the extrusion device comprises a die having a shape adapted to form the desired cavity(ies) and level of porosity at the solid bar.

[0124] By way of illustration, an extrusion method according to the invention comprises a die such as that illustrated in [Fig.4].

[0125] Step (c) can be carried out using a knife or a wire, such as for example a butter cutter.

[0126] Preferably, steps (b) and (c) are simultaneous.

[0127] Preferably, the method for manufacturing a composition according to the invention is extrusion method no. 2 described above.

[0128] According to a particular embodiment, applicable to processes No. 1 and No. 2 described previously, step (i) / (a) consists of having a fluid composition which can comprise at least one solvent capable of evaporating in whole or in part during step (ii) / (b), or even in addition during step (iii) and / or (iv) / (c).

[0129] As a solvent, one may for example cite an apolar or slightly polar organic solvent, for example cyclohexane, THF (tetrahydrofuran), and their mixture.

[0130] In processes No. 1 and No. 2 above, when the composition comprises at least one fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent, step (i) / (a) may require heating said composition to a temperature above the highest melting point of the lipophilic gelling agents present in said composition.

[0131] According to a particular embodiment, extrusion method No. 2 can be carried out using a 3D printing technique. Use

[0132] A composition according to the invention is dedicated to the care of the hair and / or the scalp.

[0133] In particular, a solid composition according to the invention is not intended for cleaning the hair and / or the scalp, and therefore is not a soap or a shampoo.

[0134] In particular, depending on whether the solid composition according to the invention is intended for direct application to the hair and / or the scalp or requires prior mixing with an aqueous medium, a composition according to the invention may for example be a cream, a lotion, a serum, a hair care product (hair dyes and bleaches), a hair care product (lotions, creams, oils), a styling product (lotions, hairsprays, brilliantines).

[0135] According to a first embodiment, in particular when a composition according to the invention is of the single-dose type, a solid composition according to the invention is intended for direct contact with the hair and / or the scalp. The case Alternatively, the composition, prior to its application to the hair and / or scalp, is mixed with the hands to ensure a transition to a viscous liquid composition.

[0136] According to a second embodiment, a solid composition according to the invention is intended to be brought into contact with an aqueous phase, in particular water before, simultaneously and / or after its application to the area to be treated. When a composition according to the invention is not of the single-dose type, contact with water is carried out during the first use only, and assumes packaging of the “solid composition / water” mixture in a suitable receptacle. For obvious reasons, this requires a solid composition of suitable formula and a sufficient quantity of water to ensure the transition from a solid composition to a liquid composition, for example in the form of a gel. Also, this requires the presence in the solid composition of at least one preservative to guarantee good preservation over time of the liquid composition thus formed.

[0137] According to a particular embodiment, a solid composition according to the invention, in particular when it adopts a honeycomb-type configuration as described above, may comprise a plurality of sections, in particular polygonal sections, each of the sections defining a fracturable perimeter allowing the separation of at least one section from the rest of the solid composition. Thus, according to this embodiment, each section of the solid composition corresponds to a single dose.

[0138] Finally, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for the care of the hair and / or the scalp, comprising at least one step of applying to the hair and / or the scalp at least one composition as defined above. DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

[0139] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] represents a composition according to the invention of parallelepiped shape provided with a cylindrical cavity. A corresponds to the side view and B corresponds to the top view.

[0140] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] represents a composition according to the invention of ovoid shape with cavities (top view), representing the word “SOAP”.

[0141] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] represents a composition according to the invention provided with cavities in honeycomb (top view).

[0142] [Fig.4] [Fig.4] represents a die used for the process of the invention.

[0143] [Fig.5] [Fig.5] represents a comparative sector.

[0144] [Fig.6] [Fig.6] represents other examples of solid compositions according to the invention. EXAMPLES Step 1 - manufacturing:

[0145] [Tables 1] INCI NAME % Phase LABRAFAC CC Caprylic / CapricTriglyceride QSP* A CETIOL OE Dicaprylyl Ether 20.00 A JOJOBA OIL Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 8.00 A Avocado Oil Persea Gratis sima (Avocado) Oil 4.00 A ESTOGEL M Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / CapricTriglyceride 30.00 A ESTOGEL GREEN HydrogenatedCastor Oil / SebacicAcid Copolymer 8.00 A REP'HAÏR Behenyl / Stearyl aminopropanediol esters 0.20 A Coenzyme Q10 Ubiquinone 0.2 B COPHEROL 1250 C Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 B PARFUM Fragrance 0.50 B Total 100.00

[0146] * Sufficient Quantity For - Introduce the ingredients of phase A into a container and heat the mixture while stirring at 90°C until homogenized; - Cool to 70°C and add the ingredients of phase B while stirring until homogenized. Step 2 - Extrusion:

[0147] - The mixture obtained in step 1 is injected into an extruder provided, in a first case, of a die according to the invention as illustrated in [Fig.4] and in a second case, of a comparative die as illustrated in [Fig.5];

[0148] - At the outlet of the die, the extruded loaves are cut so as to obtain the weights and volumes described in table 1 below.

[0149] - Single-dose solid care compositions are obtained, respectively, under form of a solid composition according to the invention with a honeycomb structure (dose 1, for example like those described in [Fig.6]) and a comparative solid composition with a general shape identical to test 1 but without a cavity (dose 2 and 3).

[0150] [Tables2] Dose 1 (invention) Dose 2 (comparative) Dose 3 (comparative) Weight (in mg) 750 750 3000 Volume (in cm3) 3 0.75 3 Porosity (%) >75 0 0 Step 3 - Application:

[0151] Step 3 is carried out on a panel of 18 women between 22 and 47 years old (hereinafter the “candidates”), 3 groups then being formed, each group being made up of 6 women (groups A, B and C).

[0152] For each group, the candidates apply the tested composition to the hair, previously mixed with both hands until a viscous liquid solution is obtained.

[0153] Each of groups A, B and C will use doses 1, 2 and 3, but each time in different orders.

[0154] During this step 3, the candidates evaluate the performance of doses 1, 2 and 3 in terms of (i) gripping capacity, (ii) homogeneity of the deposit applied, (iii) comfort on application and (iii) state of the composition after use. Rating criteria:

[0155] [Tables3] RATING CRITERIA 0 1 2 Grip Satisfactory Average Poor Homogeneity of deposit Satisfactory Average Poor Comfort on application Satisfactory Average Poor Condition of composition after use Total disappearance Some residue General structure preserved

[0156] The averages of the results obtained with the three groups A, B and C are presented in the following table, it being understood that the trends observed are identical between the three groups.

[0157] [Tables4] Dose 1 (Invention) Dose 2 (Comparative) Dose 3 (Comparative) Grip 0 2 0 Homogeneity of deposit 0 1 1 Comfort on application 0 1 1 Condition after use 0 1 2

[0158] With comparative doses 2 and 3, we observe that when the size is too small, the grip is poor and it is difficult to handle and when it is too bulky, it is not possible to consume it completely during single-dose use which generates a lot of losses.

[0159] Furthermore, doses 2 and 3 have average properties in terms of deposit homogeneity and comfort on application.

[0160] Dose 1 according to the invention makes it possible to combine the advantages of comparative doses 2 and 3 without their disadvantages.

[0161] A composition according to the invention, thanks to the presence of cavities in the contents considered, makes it possible to access solid hair care compositions combining a capacity to generate a homogeneous deposit with less material while generating less loss and presenting satisfactory homogeneity and comfort of application, and this without prejudice to the gripping properties.

[0162] A solid composition according to the invention is therefore less demanding in raw materials and is therefore advantageous both ecologically and economically.

Claims

Claims

1. Solid cosmetic composition for hair and / or scalp care, comprising at least one hair active ingredient, characterized in that said composition comprises at least one cavity such that said composition comprises a porosity greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition, said cavity having a minimum width greater than or equal to 1 mm.

2. Solid composition according to claim 1, in which the porosity is greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40%, in particular greater than or equal to 50%, or even greater than or equal to 60%, in particular greater than or equal to 70%, and very particularly greater than or equal to 80%, by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition.

3. Solid composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the cavity(ies) is / are through.

4. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition comprising one or more cavities, preferably several cavities, identical or different.

5. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cavity(ies) are round, oblong, ovoid, triangular, polygonal, honeycomb, or in the form of a tiling (or cutting), for example of the Voronoi diagram type, preferably in the form of a honeycomb.

6. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the ratio between the volume of the cavity(ies) and the total volume of the composition is between 0.2 and 0.9, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8, better still between 0.2 and 0.7, or even between 0.2 and 0.

6.

7. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hair active agent is chosen from surfactants; fixing polymers; conditioning agents; fatty substances; polysaccharides; anti-UV agents; fillers; perfumes; peptizing agents; acidic agents; alkaline agents; reducing agents; oxidizing agents; direct dyes or oxidation dyes; and mixtures thereof.

8. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises between 0.0001% and 60%, preferably between 0.001% and 50%, in particular between 0.01% and 40%, in particular better between 0.1% and 35%, and preferably between 1% and 25%, by weight of hair active ingredient(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.

9. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive, at least one oil, and their mixture.

10. A solid composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition further comprises at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

11. A solid composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition is a single-dose composition.

12. A solid composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition is a topical composition.

13. Packaging comprising several solid compositions according to any one of the preceding claims, preferably in the form of single doses, said compositions comprising different hair active ingredients and / or contents of different hair active ingredients.

14. A method of manufacturing a solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least the steps of: (i) providing a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form; (ii) pouring the composition into a mold and drying until a solid composition is obtained, (iii) cutting the solid composition into the desired shape, and (iv) forming cavities to obtain a solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

15. A method of manufacturing a solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least the steps of: (a) providing a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form; (b) passing the composition of step (a) into an extrusion device provided with a die of a shape suitable for forming a solid bar, and (c) cutting the bar obtained in step (b) to obtain a solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

16. Non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment for the care of the hair and / or scalp, comprising at least one step of applying to the hair and / or scalp at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

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