Process for lightening keratin fibers using a composition comprising a peroxygenated salt and a fatty substance in a particular content and a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide and a fatty substance in a particular content.

Abstract

Process for lightening keratin fibers using a composition comprising a peroxygenated salt and a fatty substance in a particular content and a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide and a fatty substance in a particular content.The invention relates to a process for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising (i) a step of mixing a composition (A) comprising one or more peroxygenated salts and one or more fatty substances present in the composition (A) in a total content greater than or equal to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A) with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide and one or more fatty substances present in the composition (B) in a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B), (ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

Description

Title of the invention: Process for lightening keratin fibers using a composition comprising a peroxygenated salt and a fatty substance in a particular content and a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide and a fatty substance in a particular content.

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a process for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, using a composition comprising one or more peroxygenated salts and one or more fatty substances in a content greater than or equal to 25%, and a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide and one or more fatty substances in a content greater than or equal to 5%.

[0002] In the field of hair lightening, tone height is generally used to characterize the degree or level of lightening. The concept of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, a tone separating each shade from the one that immediately follows or precedes it. This definition and classification of natural shades is well known to hairdressing professionals and published in the book "Sciences of Hair Treatments" by Charles ZVIAK 1988, Ed. Masson, pp.215 and 278.

[0003] Tone heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blond), with one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.

[0004] Lightening thus makes it possible to provide a lighter tone height than the initial natural tone height of the hair.

[0005] The processes used to lighten hair generally consist of using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, in alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.

[0006] This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively low lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When a more significant lightening is desired, in particular a lightening of at least 5 tones, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates for example, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. These peroxygenated salts are contained in compositions which, at the time of use, are mixed with an aqueous composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0007] In order to adjust the pH of the compositions to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent, an alkaline agent is used. This alkaline agent also causes swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent inside the fiber, and therefore increases the efficiency of the reaction.

[0008] However, the use of alkaline agents and peroxygen salts can lead to a deterioration in the quality of the hair. The main causes of this deterioration in the quality of the hair are a reduction in its cosmetic properties, such as its shine, and a deterioration in its mechanical properties, more particularly a deterioration in its mechanical resistance which can also result in an increase in its porosity. The hair is weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as blow-drying. There is also an increase in frizz, which is unsightly.

[0009] Lightening dark hair is therefore particularly delicate because it requires the use of a significant quantity of peroxygen salts if you want to lighten it significantly, which can weaken it.

[0010] Furthermore, lightening compositions applied to very curly hair tend to modify the shape of the curls which generally have less good definition.

[0011] Furthermore, the compositions which contain peroxygenated salts are generally in powder form. However, since powdery compositions have the disadvantage of producing dust during their handling, transport and storage, compositions in paste form have been proposed. The powdery compounds are thus dispersed in a thickened organic inert liquid support which provides a solution to the problems of volatility.

[0012] On the other hand, the implementation of the compositions in paste form causes new difficulties.

[0013] These pastes are generally anhydrous and their texture is compact and hard. As a result, mixing the paste and the hydrogen peroxide composition is far from easy. This results not only in a longer mixing time but also in difficulties in obtaining a homogeneous mixture that is stable.

[0014] Furthermore, the lightening compositions obtained may be difficult to distribute homogeneously over the entire head of hair, in particular on curly or frizzy hair, which may lead to unwanted non-uniform lightening performances.

[0015] Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to propose a process for lightening keratin materials, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, using compositions which do not present not the disadvantages mentioned above, that is, which are capable of leading to very good lightening performances without altering the cosmetic properties of the hair, while having very good qualities of use.

[0016] This and other aims are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a process for lightening keratin fibres, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising (i) a step of mixing a composition (A) comprising one or more peroxygenated salts and one or more fatty substances present in the composition (A) in a total content greater than or equal to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A), with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide and one or more fatty substances present in the composition (B) in a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B), (ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

[0017] The invention also relates to a device with at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibres, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) and at least a second compartment containing a composition (B), as well as the use of a composition resulting from the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) for lightening keratin fibres, and in particular hair.

[0018] The method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a significant level of lightening, up to 9 tones, without major alteration of the cosmetic properties of the hair, and with improved qualities of use.

[0019] In particular, it allows a homogeneous and stable mixture to be obtained quickly and easily. The method of the invention also allows easy application of the composition to the hair. The galenic of the composition in the form of a smooth cream makes it possible to avoid dripping during application while spreading easily throughout the hair, even in very curly hair. In addition, the composition does not dry out during the application time, which allows optimal availability of the active ingredients throughout the application time. Furthermore, the composition is easy to rinse.

[0020] The cosmetic properties of the hair treated by the process according to the invention do not present any major alteration, in particular in terms of softness and detangling. The process makes it possible in particular to provide conditioning to the hair and to limit breakage of the hair during detangling, in particular the breakage of very curly hair. When implemented on very curly hair, the process also makes it possible to maintain the shape of the curls by giving them good definition. The process also makes it possible to obtain good frizz control.

[0021] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

[0022] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0023] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”. Peroxygen salts

[0024] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more peroxygenated salts.

[0025] Preferably, the peroxygenated salts are chosen from persulfates; perborates; peracids and / or their salts; percarbonates of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, or ammonium; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

[0026] More preferably, the composition (A) according to the present invention comprises at least one persulfate.

[0027] Persulfates, also called peroxysulfates, correspond, within the meaning of the invention, to the anions (SO52 peroxomonosulfate anion) or S2O82 (peroxodisulfate anion) or to the compounds comprising at least one of these anions.

[0028] Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from peroxodisulfates.

[0029] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one peroxygenated salt chosen from persulfates; preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even better from potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0030] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) present in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably still from 10 to 50% by weight, and even better from 20 to 45%, or even from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] Preferably, the total content of persulfate(s) present in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, even better 20 to 45%, or even 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A). Hydrogen peroxide

[0032] The composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises hydrogen peroxide, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 0.5 to 20%, and even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (B). Fatty body

[0033] As indicated previously, the compositions (A) and (B) used in the process according to the invention comprise one or more fatty substances.

[0034] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0035] Advantageously, the fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0036] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.

[0037] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.

[0038] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa). Solid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0040] More particularly, the liquid fatty body(ies) according to the invention are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0042] As regards the liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (INCI name ore oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

[0045] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] As regards the fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PCI” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or even bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by 3M.

[0047] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned are octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0049] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0050] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0053] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisocyanate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] The compositions may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0055] Suitable sugars that may be mentioned include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

[0056] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0057] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0058] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.

[0059] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0061] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0062] The silicone oils that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.10-6 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably 1.10-5 to 1 m2 / s.

[0063] Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0064] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils which can be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from amino groups and alkoxy groups.

[0065] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0066] When they are volatile, the silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly still from:

[0067] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 with 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0068] Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0069] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0070] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6 m2 / s at 25°C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name “SH 200” by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.

[0071] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.

[0072] These silicone oils are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard.

[0073] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation:

[0074] - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0075] - the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;

[0076] - DOW CORNING company 200 series oils such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0077] - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0078] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

[0079] The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

[0080] As regards the liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they may in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.

[0081] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0082] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite as an example the products marketed under the following names:

[0083] - SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;

[0084] - oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

[0085] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0086] - BAYER PK series silicones such as the product PK20;

[0087] - silicones of the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 products and PH1000;

[0088] - certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0089] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

[0090] - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the commercialized products under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in particular C1 to C4 aminoalkyl groups;

[0091] - alkoxylated groups,

[0092] - hydroxyl groups.

[0093] The solid fatty bodies according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

[0094] The solid fatty body(ies) are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0096] The solid fatty acids which can be used in the present invention are in particular chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachydic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0097] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from stearic acid, myristic acid and palmitic acid.

[0098] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0099] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0100] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0101] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0102] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0103] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0104] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0105] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.

[0106] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl, stearyl; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, including myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0108] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0109] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0110] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0111] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0112] Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0113] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0114] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0115] As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0116] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;we can cite in particular camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.;

[0117] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

[0119] The ceramides or their analogues that can be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0120] RI denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0121] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0122] R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

[0123] The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.

[0124] Preferably, ceramides are used for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0125] It is also possible to use compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0126] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)cetyl acid amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

[0127] The solid fatty bodies are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes and their mixtures.

[0128] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0129] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] More preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil.

[0131] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, and their mixtures.

[0132] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil and at least one solid fatty substance, preferably at least one wax.

[0133] Preferably, the total content of the fatty substance(s) in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is greater than or equal to 26% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 27% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 28% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0134] Preferably, the total content of the fatty substance(s) in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 25 to 60% by weight, preferably from 26 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 27 to 40% by weight, better still from 28 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0135] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from solid fatty alcohols.

[0136] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, and at least one liquid fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil.

[0137] Preferably, the total content of the fatty substance(s) in the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention is greater than or equal to 6% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0138] Preferably, the total content of the fatty substance(s) in the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 6 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 30% by weight, better still from 7 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0139] Preferably, the total content of the fatty substance(s) in the composition resulting from the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) obtained in step (i) ranges from 7 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 40, preferentially from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i). Associative polymers

[0140] The compositions used in the process according to the invention may further comprise one or more associative polymers.

[0141] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more associative polymers.

[0142] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (B) used in the method according to the invention comprises one or more associative polymers.

[0143] According to another preferred embodiment, the compositions (A) and (B) used in the process according to the invention comprise one or more associative polymers.

[0144] It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0145] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0146] By “hydrophobic group” is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0147] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may originate from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0148] The associative polymer may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0149] Among the anionic type associative polymers, we can cite:

[0150] - (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one ether unit fatty chain allyl, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is consisting of an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly still of a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly of an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

[0151] Among these anionic associative polymers, particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

[0152] Among the latter, particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular those sold by the company CIBA under the names SALCARE SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).

[0153] - (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of carboxylic acid type olefinically unsaturated, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester type.

[0154] Alkyl esters (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful in the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0155] Anionic polymers of this type are for example described and prepared, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

[0156] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above, will be used more particularly.

[0157] Among the above polymers, the products sold by the company GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, the product sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the trade name CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER) the product sold by the company SEPC under the name COATEX SX®, and even more preferably CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER®.

[0158] Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer marketed under the name Acrylidone LM by the ISP Company.

[0159] - (c) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 a-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.

[0160] - (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:

[0161] i) about 20 to 70% by weight of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A],

[0162] ii) about 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturated monomer different from [A],

[0163] iii) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,

[0164] such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer (40EO) in 25% aqueous dispersion.

[0165] - (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation and an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid ester of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0166] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation and C1-C4 alcohol.

[0167] As an example of this type of compound, mention may be made of ACULYN 22® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, or even ACULYN 28® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER® sold by Lubrizol.

[0168] - (f) Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one unsaturated monomer ethylenic with a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.

[0169] The ethylenically unsaturated monomers with a sulfonic group are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C1-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido-(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

[0170] More preferably, (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22) alkylsulfonic acids will be used, such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

[0171] More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or totally neutralized forms will be used.

[0172] The polymers of this family may in particular be chosen from random amphiphilic polymers of AMPS modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen for example from (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives substituted in [3] or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0173] The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation.

[0174] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain such as (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives substituted in [3] or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0175] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, patent US 5089578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

[0176] - “Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336. » ;

[0177] - “Miscelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2- methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10 (2000), 3694-3704”;

[0178] - “Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to an polyelectrolyte: known effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000) 5324-5332”;

[0179] - “Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2- methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221”.

[0180] Among these polymers, we can cite:

[0181] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A750 899;

[0182] - terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and 5 to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C18)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in US patent 5089578.

[0183] Mention may also be made of copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate as well as non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.

[0184] Among the anionic associative polymers according to the invention, the polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acid type (family b)), and the copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol (family e)) are preferred.

[0185] Among the cationic associative polymers we can cite:

[0186] (a) cationic associative polyurethanes;

[0187] (b) the compound marketed by the company NOVEON under the name AQUA CC and which corresponds to the INCI name POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER.

[0188] POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:

[0189] a di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl)methacrylate,

[0190] one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,

[0191] a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide unit),

[0192] a polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol 30 / 5 allyl ether,

[0193] a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and

[0194] an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0195] (c) quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals carried by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include the products QUATRISOFT LM 200®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by AQUALON, the products CRODACEL QM®, CRODACEL QL® (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS® (C18 alkyl) sold by CRODA and the product SOFTCAT SL 100® sold by AQUALON.

[0196] (d) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.

[0197] Such polymers are for example described in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0198] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, use is made in particular of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldhnethyl-methacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylamino-propylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamido-propylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers.

[0199] The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. More particularly still, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol% of monomer comprising a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 mol% and more particularly still 1.5 to 6 mol%, relative to the total number of moles of monomers, are preferred.

[0200] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in patent application WO 9844012.

[0201] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers are preferred.

[0202] The non-ionic type associative polymers which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0203] (a) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fat, of which we can cite as examples:

[0204] - ANTARON V216® or GANEX V216® products (copolymer vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene) sold by the company ISP

[0205] - ANTARON V220® or GANEX V220® products (copolymer vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene) sold by the company ISP

[0206] (b) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208®. Or the copolymer with the INCI name “acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer” such as the product Novethix L-10 polymer from Lubrizol.

[0207] (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and monomers hydrophobic comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0208] (d) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both sequences hydrophilic, most often polyoxyethylenated in nature, and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

[0209] (e) polymers with an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one chain fatty, such as the PURE THIX® compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

[0210] (f) celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least less than one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or their mixtures where the alkyl groups are C8- and in particular:

[0211] * non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as NATROSOL products PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (Cl6 alkyl) sold by the company AQUALON

[0212] * non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the product AMERCELL HM-1500 sold by the company AMERCHOL;

[0213] * non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL;

[0214] (g) associative guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by an alkyl chain in C22) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by a Cl4 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by a C20 alkyl chain) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0215] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendant chains to be provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0216] Polyether polyurethanes can be multi-block, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multi-block copolymer for example). These same polymers can also be in graft or star form.

[0217] Non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Non-ionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0218] By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

[0219] As examples of non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers which can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rhéolate 205® with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or even Rhéolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®.

[0220] Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® with a Cl2-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® with a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO.

[0221] ROHM & HAAS's DW 1206B® product with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0222] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J offered by the company ROHM & HAAS.

[0223] The polyether polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993).

[0224] More particularly still, it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0225] Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0226] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.

[0227] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid.

[0228] More preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of (C10-C30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type, the copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0229] When they are present, the associative polymer(s) are preferably present in the composition(s) used in the process according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even 0.3 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them.

[0230] When they are present, the associative polymer(s) chosen from anionic associative polymers, preferably from homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, are preferably present in the composition(s) used in the process according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even 0.3 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them. Non-associative polysaccharides

[0231] The composition(s) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more non-associative polysaccharides, which are therefore different from the associative polymers above.

[0232] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharide(s).

[0233] In the present invention, the term "polysaccharide" means a polymer consisting of sugar units. The term "sugar unit" means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms. The sugar units may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0234] The sugar units which may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0235] In particular, non-associative polysaccharides may include the following polymers, alone or as a mixture: (a) exudates from trees or shrubs including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae including: - agar (polymer made from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); (c) gums from seeds or tubers of which: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); (d) microbial gums including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); (e) polymers extracted from plants including: - celluloses (glucose polymers); - starches (glucose polymers) and - inulin.

[0236] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, mention may be made in particular of a heat treatment. As chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers which may be, in particular, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0237] In particular, guar gums, carob gums, starches and celluloses can be modified / treated.

[0238] The guar gums that can be used according to the invention can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups. The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0239] Such guar gums, optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0240] The starches that can be used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, oat, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, tapioca starches. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potatoes.

[0241] Preferably, starch phosphates will be used, in particular distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product proposed under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (distarch phosphate of gelatinized cassava) or PREJEL 200 (acetylated gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) by the AVEBE Company or STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

[0242] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups can be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups can be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups can be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0243] The polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention can be cellulose polymers.

[0244] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0245] Cellulosic polymers are also called celluloses.

[0246] Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in a microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0247] Among these cellulose polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0248] Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates or phosphates of cellulose, etc.), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates of cellulose) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyratesulfates and acetatepropionatesulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, there are hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0249] Among the cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by ASHLAND) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0250] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

[0251] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0252] Preferably, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, celluloses, guar gums, starches, preferentially from celluloses.

[0253] Better still, the non-associative polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters, and preferably from cellulose ethers.

[0254] In a particularly preferred manner, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0255] When they are present, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are preferably present in the composition(s) used in the process according to the invention, preferably composition (A), in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them.

[0256] When present, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) chosen from cellulose polymers are preferably present in the composition(s) implemented in the process according to the invention, preferably composition (A), in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition which contains it.

[0257] When they are present, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) chosen from cellulose ethers are preferably present in the composition(s) used in the process according to the invention, preferably composition (A), in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them. Surfactants

[0258] The composition(s) used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants.

[0259] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants.

[0260] Preferably, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants.

[0261] Preferably, the compositions (A) and (B) used in the process according to the invention comprise one or more surfactants.

[0262] These may preferably be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.

[0263] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO.

[0264] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts; and non- corresponding salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.

[0265] Among the anionic surfactants, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts, in particular C8-C24, preferably C12-C20.

[0266] These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

[0267] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

[0268] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0269] As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.

[0270] Preferably, salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0271] The anionic surfactants possibly present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

[0272] As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.

[0273] In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 EO) marketed, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

[0274] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of sulfated surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferably alkyl sulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.

[0275] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition(s) used in the process according to the invention are preferably non-silicone and may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0276] Mention may in particular be made of alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0277] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following respective structures (III) and (IV):

[0278] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (III) formula (III), in which: - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cr C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0279] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) formula (IV), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra' represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0280] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0281] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0282] Compounds of formula (V) can also be used: Ra''-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (V) formula (V), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra” represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra”-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0283] Among the compounds of formula (V) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0284] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0285] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, advantageously used are alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0286] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0287] The non-ionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition(s) used in the process of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0288] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, the following compounds may be mentioned, alone or in a mixture: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - derivatives of A-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine; - amine oxides.

[0289] They are chosen, in particular, from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Cr C2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.

[0290] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as than (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0291] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan can be chosen from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

[0292] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably chosen from ester(s) of C8-C30 fatty acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0293] Preferably, the ester(s) of C8-C30 fatty acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from esters of C12-C18 fatty acids and of oxyethylenated sorbitan, in particular from esters of lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan.

[0294] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), oxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), oxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65), oxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-85).

[0295] The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids and glycerol, esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and oxyethylenated sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, preferably from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids and glycerol.

[0296] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups.

[0297] The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition(s) used in the process according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0298] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

[0299] As quaternary ammonium salts, we can notably cite, for example:

[0300] - those corresponding to the following general formula (VI): in which the groups R8 to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, alkyl(C1-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(C1-C22)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl (C1-C30), X' is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C1-C4)sulfates, alkyl(C1-C4)- or alkyl(C1-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI), preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl- chloride (myristylacetate)-ammonium marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0301] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of following formula (VII): ?» To ^ch?ch^—v A' A ' " / 'A (VII) in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X' is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C1-C4)sulfates, alkyl(C1-C4)- or alkyl(C1-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0302] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (VIII) next: in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0303] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such that, for example, those of formula (IX) following: tCTUOL--FU 0 T" ■" —C-------(O—--—O)y-~R^ FU (IX) in which: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the -C(O)R26 group, the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the -C(O)R28 group, the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1;r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29. ; The alkyl groups R22 can be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(Cl-C4) sulfate, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ester-functional ammonium may be used. The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate. More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used in the composition according to the invention, in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, the methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R28, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from the C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples of compounds of formula (XIII) that may be mentioned are salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, available from KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131, can also be used. Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0304] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and their mixtures, more preferably from anionic surfactants.

[0305] More preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts and mixtures thereof, better still from alkyl sulfates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts and mixtures thereof.

[0306] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

[0307] Preferably, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and their mixtures, preferentially one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0308] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants chosen from alkyl sulfates.

[0309] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, and mixtures thereof, preferentially among ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups.

[0310] When they are present, the surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition(s) according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them.

[0311] When they are present, the non-ionic and / or anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition(s) according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them. Sequestering agent

[0312] The composition(s) used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more sequestering (or chelating) agent(s).

[0313] Preferably, the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more sequestering agent(s).

[0314] The definition of a “sequestering agent” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a cycle including the metal ion).

[0315] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron donor atoms which allow the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

[0316] In the context of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.

[0317] The salts are in particular salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.

[0318] As an example of a carboxylic acid-based sequestrant, the following compounds may be mentioned: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) chelators (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

[0319] Examples of mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid)., and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate

[0320] As examples of polyphosphoric acid-based chelators, the following compounds may be mentioned: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

[0321] According to one embodiment, the sequestering agent(s) useful according to the invention are phosphorus-containing sequestering agents, i.e. sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

[0322] The phosphorus sequestering agent(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0323] - inorganic phosphorus derivatives preferably chosen from phosphates and pyrophosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably of alkali metals such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably of alkali metals, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;

[0324] - organic phosphorus derivatives, such as (poly)phosphates and Organic (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and mixtures thereof.

[0325] Preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) is (are) chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms covalently linked together by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.

[0326] The phosphorus sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) is (are) chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also called tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

[0327] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-containing derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are chosen from etidronic acid (also called 1-hydroxyethane 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or its alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

[0328] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal salts, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0329] In a particularly preferred manner, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate and a mixture of these compounds.

[0330] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.

[0331] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts.

[0332] When present, the sequestering agent(s) are preferably present in the composition(s) in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them. Alkaline agent

[0333] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more alkaline, mineral, organic or hybrid agent(s).

[0334] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents.

[0335] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” or “alkalizing agent” are used interchangeably.

[0336] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0337] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0338] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0339] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4.

[0340] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof.

[0341] The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a function guanidine. As amines of this type other than arginine which may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.)

[0342] As hybrid compounds, it is possible in particular to use guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.

[0343] The alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium silicate and metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium silicate and metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0344] In a particular embodiment, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is free of ammonia.

[0345] When they are present, the alkaline agent(s) are preferably present in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better still from 5 to 35% by weight, even better still from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0346] According to a particular embodiment, the composition (A) used in the method according to the invention comprises at least one (meta)silicate. According to this embodiment, the total content of silicate(s) or metasilicate(s) of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably sodium metasilicate or silicate, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better still from 5 to 35% by weight, even better still from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Solvent

[0347] The composition(s) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.

[0348] As organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0349] When present, the organic solvent(s) are preferably present in the composition(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them.

[0350] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention is anhydrous. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition which does not comprise, or comprises little water, in particular less than 0.5% by weight of water, better still less than 0.1% of water, even better still less than 0.05%, or even less than 0.01% of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the composition (A) does not comprise any water added during its preparation, the water possibly present being able to be provided by the raw materials used during its preparation.

[0351] Composition (B) is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water.

[0352] Composition (B) also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

[0353] Usually, the pH of composition (B), when it is aqueous, is less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferentially between 1.5 and 4.5. Additives

[0354] The compositions used in the process according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of polymers, different from associative polymers and non-associative polysaccharides, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidant agents, perfumes, preservatives.

[0355] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0356] The above additives may generally be present in an amount of between 0 and 20% by weight for each of them, relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them.

[0357] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is preferably in the form of a cream.

[0358] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention has a viscosity greater than or equal to 100 poises (100 Pa.s), preferably greater than or equal to 130 poises (130 Pa.s), more preferably between 130 and 250 poises (130 and 250 Pa.s), measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1s 1; this viscosity can be determined using a Thermo Haake RS600 rotary rheometer, equipped with a 0 35 mm plane-plane geometry with a 1 mm air gap.

[0359] The composition resulting from the mixture of step (i) is called ready-to-use composition. Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition ranges from 8 to 13, preferably from 9 to 12.

[0360] Preferably, the ready-to-use composition is also in the form of a cream.

[0361] The ready-to-use composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

[0362] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.

[0363] Preferably, compositions (A) and (B) are mixed in a weight ratio (A) / (B) ranging from 0.1 to 2, preferably from 0.3 to 1.5, better still from 0.5 to 1. Kit

[0364] Another subject of the invention is a device with at least two compartments for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as described above and at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as described above.

[0365] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by appropriate application means, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.

[0366] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

[0367] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition obtained in step i) from compositions (A) and (B) as defined in any one of the preceding claims, for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

[0368] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

[0369] In the examples which follow, all the quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Composition A

[0370] Composition A according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0371] [Tables 1] A POTASSIUM PERSULFATE 28.38 AMMONIUM PERSULFATE 9.95 SODIUM SILICATE 18 SODIUM METASILICATE 5 SODIUM STEARATE 4.72 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.75 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLA TE CROSSPOLYMER 0.75 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 1 DISODIUM EDTA 0.5 SILICA 0.05 MINERAL OIL / PARAFFINUM LIQUI DUM 29 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.01 POLYETHYLENE 1.89 Composition B

[0372] Compositions B1 and B2 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0373] [Tables2] B1 B2 TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 0.04 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 0.035 ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 MET HACRYLATE COPOLYMER 0.4 0.4 CETEARETH-33 2 2 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 9 9 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 8 2.85 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06 0.06 PHOSPHORIC ACID Qs pH 3 + / - 0.2 Qs pH 3 + / - 0.2 WATER / AQUA Qs 100 Qs 100

[0374] At the time of use, composition A in cream form was mixed with each of compositions B1 and B2 according to the weight ratio 1+1.5, to obtain mixtures M1 and M2 respectively.

[0375] A homogeneous mixture Ml is quickly obtained.

[0376] Each of the mixtures M1 and M2 was then applied to a strand of natural brown hair (tone height 4) at a rate of 10g of mixture per 1g of strand of hair.

[0377] The Ml mixture spreads easily on the strands.

[0378] After a setting time of 50 min at 33°C, the locks were rinsed, then washed and dried at 60°C in an oven.

[0379] The Ml mixture did not dry on the strands during the application time. Colorimetric measurements

[0380] Hair lightening was assessed in the L*a*b* system, with a KONICA MINOLTA CM-3600A spectro-colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

[0381] In this system, L* represents lightness, a* represents the red / green axis and b* the yellow / blue axis.

[0382] The level of lightening is represented by the color difference AE between the strands of natural hair before treatment and the strands of lightened hair, AE being obtained from the formula:

[0383] in which L* represents the intensity, a* and b* the chromaticity of natural hair and Lq* represents the intensity and a0* and b0* the chromaticity of lightened hair.

[0384] The higher the AE value, the more the hair is lightened. Results

[0385] [Tables3] L ab AE Control before treatment 19.15 2.06 2.44 - Ml 55.06 10.59 31.29 46.85 M2 50.4 9.93 28.56 41.48

[0386] Mixture Ml leads to better lightening of the hair compared to mixture M2.

Claims

Claims

1. Process for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising: (i) a step of mixing a composition (A) comprising one or more peroxygenated salts, one or more fatty substances present in the composition (A) in a total content greater than or equal to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A) and one or more alkaline agent(s) present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A), with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide and one or more solid fatty substances present in the composition (B) in a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B), (ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

2. Method according to the preceding claim in which the peroxygenated salt(s) are chosen from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even better from potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

3. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) in composition (A) ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably between 20 and 45% by weight, better still from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances and their mixtures.

5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition (A) comprises one or more bodies fats chosen from liquid fatty bodies, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, better still from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil.

6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances chosen from solid fatty substances, preferably from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof.

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the total fatty substance content in the composition (A) ranges from 25 to 60% by weight, preferably from 26 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 27 to 40% by weight, better still from 28 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (B) comprises one or more fatty substances chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, better still from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil.

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the solid fatty bodies of composition (B) are chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof, better still solid fatty alcohols.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the total content of solid fatty substances in the composition (B) ranges from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 6 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 30% by weight, better still from 7 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of fatty substances in the composition resulting from the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) obtained in step (i) ranges from 7 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 40%, preferentially from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (A) comprises one or more alkaline agent(s) chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and sodium silicate, and mixtures thereof, preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and sodium silicate and mixtures thereof.

13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compositions (A) and (B) are mixed in a weight ratio (A) / (B) ranging from 0.1 to 2, preferably from 0.3 to 1.5, better still from 0.5 to 1.

14. Device with at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined in any one of the preceding claims and at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

15. Use of a composition resulting from the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) as defined in any one of the preceding claims, for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair.