Composition comprising a peroxygenated salt, an associative polymer, a non-associative polysaccharide and a hydrocarbon with a melting point above 25°C.

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising a peroxygenated salt, an associative polymer, a non-associative polysaccharide, and a hydrocarbon with a melting point above 25°C. The invention also relates to a composition for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising one or more peroxygenated salts, one or more associative polymers, one or more non-associative polysaccharides, and one or more hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C. The invention further relates to a method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human fibers, particularly hair, comprising applying the composition to said keratin fibers.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a peroxygenated salt, an associative polymer, a non-associative polysaccharide and a hydrocarbon with a melting point above 25°C.

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising one or more peroxygenated salts, one or more associative polymer(s), one or more non-associative polysaccharide(s) and one or more hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C.

[0002] The invention also relates to the process of lightening human keratin fibers using such a composition.

[0003] In the field of hair lightening, tone level is generally used to characterize the degree or level of lightening. The concept of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, with one tone separating each shade from the one immediately preceding or following it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to hairdressing professionals and are published in the book "Sciences des traitements cheveux" by Charles ZVIAK, 1988, Ed. Masson, pp. 215 and 278.

[0004] The tone heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.

[0005] Lightening thus makes it possible to bring a tone height lighter than the initial natural tone height of the hair.

[0006] The processes used to lighten hair generally consist of using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.

[0007] This oxidizing agent's role is to degrade the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the hair fibers. Thus, for relatively slight lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, particularly lightening of at least 5 shades, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. These peroxygenated salts are contained in compositions which, at the time of use, are mixed with an aqueous composition containing hydrogen peroxide.

[0008] In order to adjust the pH of the compositions to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent, an alkaline agent is used. This alkaline agent also causes a swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent inside the fiber, and thus increases the efficiency of the reaction.

[0009] However, the use of alkaline agents and peroxide salts can lead to a deterioration in hair quality. The main causes of this deterioration are a decrease in cosmetic properties, such as shine, and a degradation of mechanical properties, particularly a reduction in mechanical resistance, which can also result in increased porosity. The hair is weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as blow-drying. An increase in frizz, which is unsightly, is also observed.

[0010] Lightening dark hair is therefore particularly delicate because it requires the use of a large amount of peroxygenated salts if one wishes to lighten them strongly, which can weaken them.

[0011] In addition, lightening compositions applied to very curly hair tend to alter the shape of the curls, which generally exhibit less definition.

[0012] Furthermore, compositions containing peroxygenated salts are generally in powder form. However, since powdered compositions have the disadvantage of producing dust during handling, transport, and storage, paste-like compositions have been proposed. The powdered compounds are thus dispersed in a thickened, inert, organic liquid support, which provides a solution to the volatility problems.

[0013] On the other hand, the implementation of compositions in paste form causes new difficulties.

[0014] These pastes are generally anhydrous and have a compact, hard texture. Consequently, mixing the paste with the hydrogen peroxide composition is far from easy. This results not only in a longer mixing time but also in difficulties in obtaining a homogeneous and stable mixture.

[0015] Furthermore, the lightening compositions obtained may be difficult to distribute evenly over the entire head of hair, particularly curly or frizzy hair, which may lead to undesirable uneven lightening performance.

[0016] Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to propose lightening compositions for keratinous materials, preferably human keratinous fibers such as hair, which do not present the disadvantages mentioned above, that is to say, which are capable of producing very good lightening performance without altering the cosmetic properties of the hair, while having very good qualities of use.

[0017] This objective and others are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a composition comprising: - one or more peroxygenated salts; - one or more associative polymers; - one or more non-associative polysaccharides; and - one or more hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C.

[0018] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a keratin fiber lightening composition, preferably human, preferably hair.

[0019] The invention also relates to a lightening process implementing said composition, the use of the composition for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair, as well as a multi-compartment device suitable for implementing said lightening composition.

[0020] The composition according to the invention leads to a significant level of lightening, up to 9 shades, without major alteration of the cosmetic properties of the hair, and with improved qualities of use.

[0021] In particular, the composition according to the invention mixes quickly and easily with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition to obtain a homogeneous and stable mixture. The mixture is easily applied to the hair. Its smooth, creamy consistency prevents dripping during application while spreading easily throughout the hair, even in very curly hair. Furthermore, the mixture does not dry out during the application time, thus ensuring optimal availability of the active ingredients throughout the application period. In addition, the mixture rinses out easily.

[0022] The cosmetic properties of hair treated with the composition according to the invention do not show any major alteration, particularly in terms of softness and detangling. The composition specifically conditions the hair and reduces breakage during detangling, especially in very curly hair. When applied to very curly hair, it also helps maintain curl shape by providing good definition. The composition also provides good frizz control.

[0023] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

[0024] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0025] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more". Peroxygenated salts

[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more peroxygenated salts.

[0027] Preferably, the peroxygenated salts are chosen from among persulfates; perborates; peracids and / or their salts; alkali metal, alkali-earth metal, or ammonium percarbonates; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

[0028] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one persulfate.

[0029] Persulfates, also called peroxysulfates, correspond, in the sense of the invention, to the anions SO52 (peroxomonosulfate anion) or S2O82 (peroxodisulfate anion) or to compounds comprising at least one of these anions.

[0030] Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from among the peroxodi-sulfates.

[0031] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one peroxygenated salt selected from the persulfates; preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even better from potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0032] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably still from 10 to 50% by weight, and even better from 20 to 45%, or even from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] Preferably, the total content of persulfate(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably still from 10 to 50% by weight, even better from 20 to 45%, or even from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Associative polymers

[0034] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one associative polymer.

[0035] It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0036] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hy- zone Drosophila and at least one hydrophobic area.

[0037] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a radical or hydrocarbon chain polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0038] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as polybutadiene.

[0039] The associative polymer can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0040] Among anionic-type associative polymers, the following may be mentioned:

[0041] - (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif, and at least one ether motif of fatty chain allyl, more particularly those whose hydrophilic motif is made up of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly still of a vinylic carboxylic acid and especially of an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

[0042] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

[0043] Among these, crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 OE) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10) are particularly preferred, especially those sold by the company CIBA under the names SALCARE SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are aqueous emulsions at 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).

[0044] - (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl (C10-C30) ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0045] Alkyl (C10-C30) esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0046] Anionic polymers of this type are, for example, described and prepared according to the US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

[0047] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, we will use more particularly those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic motif), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic motif), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer such as those described above.

[0048] Among the aforementioned polymers, the products sold by GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, the product sold by LUBRIZOL under the trade name CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER), the product sold by SEPC under the name COATEX SX®, and even more preferably CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER®, are particularly preferred according to the present invention.

[0049] We can also mention the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer marketed under the name Acrylidone LM by the ISP Company.

[0050] - (c) maleic anhydride / α-olefin terpolymers in C30-C38 / alkyl maleate such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.

[0051] - (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:

[0052] i) approximately 20 to 70% by weight of an unsaturated α,[3-monoethylenic [α],

[0053] ii) approximately 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturation monomer different from [α],

[0054] iii) approximately 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenic unsaturation monoisocyanate,

[0055] such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in Example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40OE) in 25% aqueous dispersion.

[0056] - (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid with saturation α,[3-monoethylenic and an ester of carboxylic acid with unsaturation α,[3-monoethylenic and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.

[0057] Preferably these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,p-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol.

[0058] As an example of this type of compound, we can cite ACULYN 22® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by ROHM and HAAS, or ACULYN 28® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER® sold by Lubrizol.

[0059] - (f) Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one unsaturated monomer ethylenic with a sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.

[0060] Monomers with ethylenic unsaturation and a sulfonic group are selected in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(Cl-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido-(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid and their partially or totally neutralized forms.

[0061] More preferably, alkylsulfonic (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22) acids will be used, such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

[0062] In particular, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or totally neutralized forms will be used.

[0063] Polymers of this family may in particular be selected from statistical amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their [3]-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0064] Preferred polymers of this family are chosen from among amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation.

[0065] These same copolymers may further contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers without a fatty chain such as (meth)acrylic acids, their [3]-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinyl-pyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0066] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, US patent 5089578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

[0067] - “Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336. » ;

[0068] - “Miscelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10 (2000), 3694-3704”;

[0069] - “Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to an polyelectrolyte: known effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000) 5324-5332”;

[0070] - “Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221”.

[0071] Among these polymers, we can mention:

[0072] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS motifs and 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate motifs relative to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A750 899;

[0073] - terpolymers comprising 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide motifs, from 0.1 to 10 mole percent of AMPS motifs and 5 to 80 mole percent of n-(C6-C18)alkylacrylamide motifs, such as those described in US patent 5089578.

[0074] We can also mention copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate as well as copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the articles by Morishima cited above.

[0075] Among the anionic associative polymers according to the invention, preferred are polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl ester type (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acid (family b)), and copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol (family e)).

[0076] Among cationic associative polymers, the following may be mentioned:

[0077] (a) cationic associative polyurethanes;

[0078] (b) the compound marketed by NOVEON under the name AQUA CC and which corresponds to the INCI name POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER.

[0079] POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:

[0080] a di(C1-C4 alkyl) amino(C1-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,

[0081] one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,

[0082] a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide motif),

[0083] an allyl ether of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol 30 / 5,

[0084] a C2-C6 alkyl hydroxy methacrylate, and

[0085] ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0086] (c) the (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses quantified and modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, al-kylaryl groups with at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals present in the celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses quantified above preferably have from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably refer to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include QUATRISOFT LM 200®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8® (Cl8 alkyl) products sold by AQUALON, CRODACEL QM®, CRODACEL QL® (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS® (Cl8 alkyl) products sold by CRODA, and SOFTCAT SL 100® product sold by AQUALON.

[0087] (d) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.

[0088] Such polymers are described for example in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0089] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are used in particular: vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamide tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethyl- methacrylamidopropylammonium, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylamino-propylmethacrylamide / tosylate terpolymers or lauryldimethylmethacrylamido-propyl-lammonium chloride.

[0090] Amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic motif. More particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 moles % of monomer having a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 moles % and more particularly 1.5 to 6 moles %, relative to the total number of moles of monomers, are preferred.

[0091] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in patent application WO 9844012.

[0092] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, the ter-polymers acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate are preferred.

[0093] The non-ionic associative polymers usable according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0094] (a) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fat, of which we can cite as an example:

[0095] - ANTARON V216® or GANEX V216® products (vinylpyrrolidone copolymer) / hexadecene) sold by the company LS.P.

[0096] - the products ANTARON V220® or GANEX V220® (vinylpyrrolidone copolymer) / eicosene) sold by the company LS.P.

[0097] (b) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and Amphiphilic monomers containing at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208®. Or the copolymer with the INCI name "acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer", such as the product Novethix L-10 polymer from Lubrizol.

[0098] (c) copolymers of methacrylates or hydrophilic acrylates and monomers hydrophobics comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0099] (d) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain both sequences hydrophilic, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

[0100] (e) aminoplast ether backbone polymers having at least one chain oily, such as the PURE THIX® compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

[0101] (f) celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at minus a fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or their mixtures where the alkyl groups are in the C8- position, and in particular:

[0102] * non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as NATROSOL products PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (alkyl Cl6) sold by the company AQUALON

[0103] * non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the product AMERCELL HM-1500 sold by the company AMERCHOL;

[0104] * non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL;

[0105] (g) associative guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guars modified by a fat chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by an alkyl chain in C22) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by an alkyl chain in Cl4) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by an alkyl chain in C20) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0106] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence. The hydrocarbon chains may be dangling chains or end chains of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, one or more dangling chains may be provided. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0107] Polyurethane polyethers can be multi-sequenced, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic sequences can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and throughout the chain (e.g., a multi-sequenced copolymer). These same polymers can also be in graft or star form.

[0108] Non-ionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Non-ionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0109] By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

[0110] As examples of non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers usable in the invention, Rhéolate 205® with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or Rhéolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®, can also be used.

[0111] We can also mention the ELFACOS T210® product with alkyl chain in Cl2-14 and the ELFACOS T212® product with alkyl chain in C18 from AKZO.

[0112] The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0113] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. For example, RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278, and RHEOLATE® 244, sold by RHEOX, are examples of such polymers. DW 1206F and DW 1206J, offered by ROHM & HAAS, can also be used.

[0114] Polyurethane polyethers usable according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0115] More particularly, a polyurethane polyether is preferred, which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0116] Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0117] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.

[0118] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from among the homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid.

[0119] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the type of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the type of alkyl (C10-C30) ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid, copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an oxy-alkylated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more associative polymer(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more associative polymer(s) chosen from among anionic associative polymers, preferably from among homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-associative polysaccharides

[0122] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharides, which are therefore different from the associative polymers above.

[0123] In the present invention, "polysaccharide" means a polymer consisting of sugar units. "Sugar unit" means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound having several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. The sugar units may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation, and / or by dehydration.

[0124] The sugar motifs that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0125] The following polymers, alone or in mixtures, may be cited in particular as examples of non-associative polysaccharides: a) exudates from trees or shrubs, including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae, including: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcelleranes (galactose sulfate polymers and (anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) gums from seeds or tubers, including: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); d) microbial gums, including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); e) polymers extracted from plants, including: - celluloses (glucose polymers); - starches (glucose polymers) and - inulin.

[0126] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatments include, in particular, heat treatment. Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be, in particular, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0127] In particular, guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses can be modified / treated.

[0128] The guar gums usable according to the invention can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups. Examples of C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed per number of free hydroxyl groups present on the guar gum.

[0129] Such guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0130] The starches usable in the present invention may be of botanical origin from cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn, rice, oat, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, and tapioca starches. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0131] Starch phosphates, in particular phosphates, will preferably be used of distarch or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the AVEBE Company or STRUCTURE ZEA of NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).

[0132] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used; these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably, they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate type, and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine type.

[0133] The polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention can be cellulosic polymers.

[0134] By "cellulosic" polymer, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0135] Cellulosic polymers are also called celluloses.

[0136] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0137] Among these cellulosic polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0138] Cellulose esters include inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, or phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates, or acetatetrimellitates), and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyrates and acetatepropionate sulfates. Examples of cellulose ether esters include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0139] Among cellulose ethers, examples include (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR offered by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF) of AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (e.g. Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

[0140] Among anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

[0141] Among cationic cellulose ethers, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, may be cited, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, like hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyl diallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are more specifically the products sold under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0142] Preferably, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, guar gums, starches, preferably from celluloses.

[0143] Better, the non-associative polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters, and preferably from cellulose ethers.

[0144] In a particularly preferred manner, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0145] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-associative polysaccharide(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0146] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the polybag(s) non-associative carbohydrates selected from cellulosic polymers in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention

[0147] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-associative polysaccharide(s) selected from cellulose ethers in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0148] Hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C

[0149] The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C.

[0150] The term "hydrocarbon with a melting point above 25°C" means a hydrocarbon having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0151] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0152] The hydrocarbons according to the invention are made up of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, that is to say, they contain only carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms. They preferably comprise at least 30 carbon atoms, preferably at least 35 carbon atoms, better still at least 40 carbon atoms.

[0153] Hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C can be linear or branched, preferably linear.

[0154] Preferably, hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C are saturated.

[0155] Preferably, the hydrocarbons according to the invention have a higher melting point or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C, better greater than or equal to 80°C. More preferably, the hydrocarbons according to the invention have a melting point ranging from 85 to 150°C, better from 90 to 120°C.

[0156] The number-average molar mass (Mn) of the hydrocarbons according to the invention is preferably between about 400 and 2000, and more particularly between about 400 and 1000, more preferably between 500 and 700.

[0157] The number-average molecular masses of these hydrocarbons can be Measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are Styragel p-columns. The eluent is THF, with a flow rate of 1 ml / min. 200 µL of a 0.5% (wt) silicone solution is injected into the THF. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV measurement.

[0158] Preferably, the hydrocarbons according to the invention are chosen from waxes.

[0159] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0160] Preferably, the hydrocarbons according to the invention are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and mixtures thereof.

[0161] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C are chosen from among the homopolymers of ethylene, also called polyethylenes.

[0162] Preferably, the hydrocarbon(s) according to the invention are chosen from among ethylene homopolymers with a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C, better greater than or equal to 80°C, preferably, ranging from 85 to 150°C, better from 90 to 120°C.

[0163] Preferably, the hydrocarbons according to the invention are chosen from polyethylene waxes.

[0164] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbons according to the invention are chosen from polyethylene waxes with a melting point greater than or equal to 80°C.

[0165] Among the polyethylene waxes usable according to the invention, we may mention in particular that marketed under the name CIRE POLYETHYLENE AC 1702 by the company HONEYWELL, those marketed under the names PER-FORMALENE® 500-L POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 400 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 655 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® SCRUB BEADS, PERFORMALENE® SE / 2 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 725 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 850 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 1000 PO- LYETHYLENE by the company NUCERA SOLUTIONS.

[0166] Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbons with a melting point greater than or equal to 25°C ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 1.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C selected from ethylene homopolymers ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 1.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0168] Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C selected from polyethylene waxes ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 1.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] Fats other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C

[0170] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more substances fats different from hydrocarbons according to the invention previously described.

[0171] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C.

[0172] The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least six carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0173] Advantageously, the fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0174] Preferably the useful fats according to the invention are non-siliconized.

[0175] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0176] The fats used according to the invention may be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point of 25°C or less at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0177] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0178] More particularly, the liquid fat(s) according to the invention are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0180] As regards liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to Cl6 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0181] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils (INCI name ore oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

[0183] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, and avocado oils; caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812, and 818 by Dynamit Nobel; jojoba oil; shea butter oil; and their mixtures.

[0184] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; no-nafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0185] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, one may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0187] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0188] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0189] Preferably, among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, will be used ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0190] Still within the framework of this variant, esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.

[0191] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of C6 to C30 fatty acid sugars, preferably C12 to C22. It should be noted that "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0193] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0194] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the range of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0195] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0196] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito- stearate.

[0197] In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0198] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0199] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0200] The silicone oils usable in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.10-6 at 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably 1.10-5 at 1 m2 / s.

[0201] Preferably, silicone oils are selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0202] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils usable according to the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from among the amine groups and the alkoxy groups.

[0203] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0204] When volatile, silicone oils are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0205] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

[0206] We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylal-kylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0207] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0208] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and exhibiting a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁻⁶ m² / s at 25°C. This includes, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name “SH 200” by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32 – TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.

[0209] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.

[0210] These silicone oils are more specifically selected from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0211] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited by way of non-limiting example:

[0212] - SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® commercial oils specialized by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0213] - the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;

[0214] - oils in the 200 series from DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0215] - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0216] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from the RHODIA company.

[0217] Organomodified silicones usable according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group.

[0218] With regard to liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they may in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

[0219] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0220] Examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following names:

[0221] - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series by RHODIA;

[0222] - the oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series of RHODIA;

[0223] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0224] - BAYER's PK series silicones such as product PK20;

[0225] - BAYER's PN and PH series silicones, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products

[0226] - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0227] Among organomodified silicones, we can mention polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

[0228] - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as products marketed under the designations GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the designations Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in particular aminoalkyl groups in Cl to C4;

[0229] - alkoxylated groups,

[0230] - hydroxyl groups.

[0231] The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.

[0232] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0233] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolized.

[0234] The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0235] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid or acids are selected from stearic acid, myristic acid and palmitic acid.

[0236] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0237] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and They contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R designating a linear alkyl group, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0238] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0239] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanylic alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0240] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0241] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0242] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0243] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0244] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, sebacate diisopropyl, düsopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0245] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0246] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0247] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal origin, vegetable origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0248] Examples include beeswax, especially of biological origin, lanolin wax, and insect waxes from China; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0249] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in the C8 to C32 range. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0250] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.

[0251] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0252] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; examples include camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by MICRO POWDERS.

[0253] Waxes are preferably chosen from vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0254] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0255] The ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which

[0256] RI designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in the C16-C30 position;

[0257] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0258] R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.

[0259] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.

[0260] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a ga-lactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0261] Compounds may also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0262] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol; N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine; N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine; and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine; N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine; cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide; and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.

[0263] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0264] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0265] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petroleum jelly, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0266] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petroleum jelly.

[0267] When it includes them, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C in a total content ranging from 10 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0268] Preferably, when it includes them, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C in a total content greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably on greater than or equal to 15% by weight, better greater than or equal to 20% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 25% in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0269] Preferably, when it includes them, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats other than hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C in a total content of 10 to 60% by weight, preferably 12 to 50% by weight, more preferably 15 to 40% by weight, better 20 to 35% by weight, even better 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0270] Preferably, when it includes them, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fats in a total content of 12 to 50% by weight, preferably 15 to 40% by weight, more preferably 20 to 35% by weight, better 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants

[0271] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants. These may preferably be selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.

[0272] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants.

[0273] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from among the following groups: CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO.

[0274] By way of examples of anionic surfactants usable in the composition according to the invention, we may mention alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, al-kylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and acids polyglycoside-polycarboxylics, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salted forms of all these compounds;The alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally consist of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group generally designates a phenyl group.

[0275] Among anionic surfactants, we can also mention fatty acid salts, especially C8-C24, preferably C12-C20.

[0276] These compounds can be oxyethylated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0277] C6-C24 alkyl monoester salts and polyglycoside-polycarbyl acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosides tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates.

[0278] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

[0279] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0280] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0281] Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

[0282] With regard to mild anionic surfactants, particular examples may be given to the following compounds and their salts, as well as mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylened alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylened alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylened alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; uronic alkyl D ga-lactoside acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkyl polyglycosides carboxylic esters.

[0283] In particular, polyoxyalkylened alkyl ether carboxylic acids can be used, such as lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 OE) marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

[0284] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, preferred use are sulfated surfactants such as alkylsulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferably alkylsulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.

[0285] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are preferably non-siliconized and may, in particular, be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.

[0286] In particular, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0287] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, possibly quantified and usable, as defined above, we may also mention the compounds of the following respective structures (III) and (IV):

[0288] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (III) formula (III), in which: - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as one chosen from among halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0289] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) formula (IV), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra' represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0290] These compounds are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoampho-dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, caprylamphodi- disodium propionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0291] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0292] Compounds of formula (V) can also be used: Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (V) formula (V), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra” represents an alkyl or alkenyl group at C10 to C30 of an acid Ra”-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer from 1 to 3.

[0293] Among the compounds of formula (V) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0294] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0295] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof are advantageously used; and preferably alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0296] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0297] The non-ionic surfactant(s) usable in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0298] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures: - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols; - alcohols in the C8 to C40 range, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, preferably include one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy- alkylated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters and sorbitan, - C8-C30 fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C3O)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - A4-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A4acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives; - amine oxides.

[0299] They are chosen, in particular, from among alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.

[0300] Other examples include ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs; polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; oxyethylenated vegetable oils; N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0301] Esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan may be selected from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquii-sostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

[0302] Esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably selected from C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) and oxyethylenated sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, preferably again from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0303] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) is / are selected from Ci2-Ci8 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular from oxyethylenated lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid and sorbitan esters.

[0304] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) and oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are selected from oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), oxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), oxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-65), oxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-85).

[0305] The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably selected from C8-C24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, C6-C24 (alkyl) polyglycosides, C8-C30 fatty acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and glycerol, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, preferably from C8-C24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, C6-C24 (alkyl) polyglycosides, C8-C30 fatty acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and glycerol.

[0306] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from C8-C24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups.

[0307] The cationic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0308] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, examples include stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

[0309] Quaternary ammonium salts may be cited in particular, for example:

[0310] - those corresponding to the following general formula (VI): in which the groups R8 to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups are for example chosen from the alkyl groups in C1-C30, alkoxy in Ci-C30, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide in Ci-C30, alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(Ci2-C22)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C30, X'est an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or, on the other hand, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristylacetate)ammonium chloride, marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0311] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of The following formula (VII): * (VII) in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a CrC4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0312] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula (VIII) next: (VIII) in which R16 designates an alkyl group comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms possibly hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3-N+ group. (R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. Examples of such compounds include Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0313] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as that, for example, those of formula (IX) following: --Rg§ (IX) C—(O—Cr —hF——O) y~~ in which: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is selected from: the -C(O)R26 group, C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R25 is selected from: the -C(O)R28 group, C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; rl and tl, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 designates R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 designates R29. The alkyl groups R22 can be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from among the Cl 1-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from among the alkyl and alkenyl groups in Cl 1-C21, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The X- anion is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide, or iodide, an alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfate, alkyl(Cl-C4)-, or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function may be used. The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate. In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used in particular, wherein: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s, and t are equal to 2; R23 is selected from: the -C(O)R26 group, methyl, ethyl, or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, or a hydrogen atom; R25 is selected from: the -C(O)R28 group, or a hydrogen atom; R24, R26, and R28, whether identical or different, are selected from the groups C13-C17 hydrocarbons, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably among C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples of compounds with formula (XIII) include salts, notably the chloride or methylsulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethyl ammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are most often derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol. Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180, can also be used. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, available from KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131, can also be used. Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among cationic surfactants, preference is given to the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoyl-ethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium, and their mixtures, and more particularly to behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylammonium methosulfate, and their mixtures.

[0314] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably from anionic surfactants.

[0315] More preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts and mixtures thereof, better from alkyl sulfates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts and mixtures thereof.

[0316] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more surfactants selected from alkylsulfates.

[0317] When the composition includes one or more surfactant(s), the total surfactant content in the composition will preferably be from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0318] When the composition includes one or more non-ionic and / or anionic surfactant(s), the total content of non-ionic and / or anionic surfactant(s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Seizuring agent

[0319] The composition according to the invention may include one or more sequestering agent(s) (or chelating agent).

[0320] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestering agent(s).

[0321] The definition of a "sequestering agent" (or "chelating agent") is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, that is, it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (forming a ring including the metal ion).

[0322] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron-donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

[0323] Within the framework of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.

[0324] The salts are in particular salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.

[0325] By way of example of a carboxylic acid-based sequestrant, the following compounds may be cited: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), gly-cinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), the N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133),iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), iminodisuccinic acid-based chelating agents (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the name Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S by Akzo Nobel.

[0326] Examples of mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta(methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate and tetrasodium etidronate.

[0327] Examples of polyphosphoric acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexa-metaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

[0328] According to one embodiment, the useful sequestering agent(s) according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestering agents, that is to say, sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

[0329] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0330] - inorganic phosphorus derivatives preferably selected from phosphates and alkali or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, preferably of alkali metals such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali or alkaline earth metal polyphosphates, preferably of alkali metals, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;

[0331] - organic phosphorus derivatives, such as (poly)phosphates and organic (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and their mixtures.

[0332] Preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms covalently linked together by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.

[0333] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be selected from inorganic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, preferably from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also called tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

[0334] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be selected from organic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are selected from etidronic acid (also called 1-hydroxyethane 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metals such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

[0335] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal salts, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0336] In a particularly preferred manner, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) are selected from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate and a mixture of these compounds.

[0337] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.

[0338] Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium or potassium salts.

[0339] When the composition includes one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkaline agent

[0340] The composition according to the present invention may also include one or more alkali, mineral, organic or hybrid agent(s).

[0341] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkali agent(s).

[0342] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agent" are used interchangeably.

[0343] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0344] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0345] Alkanolamine means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched alkyl groups, in C1-C8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0346] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0347] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and mixtures thereof.

[0348] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, one can cite, in addition to histidine already mentioned in the Amino acids, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. Examples of amino acid dipeptides usable in the present invention include carnosine, anserine, and balenine. The organic amine may also be selected from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. Examples of amines of this type other than arginine that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l-sulfonic acid.)

[0349] In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used as hybrid compounds.

[0350] The useful alkali agent(s) according to the invention is / are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicate and metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicate and metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0351] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonia.

[0352] When it includes them, the composition comprises one or more alkali agents in a total content of, preferably, 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably 1 to 40% by weight, better 5 to 35% by weight, even better 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0353] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one (meta)silicate. According to this embodiment, the total content of alkali or alkaline earth metal silicate(s) or metasilicate(s), preferably sodium metasilicate or silicate, varies preferably from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better from 5 to 35% by weight, even better from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Solvent

[0354] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one organic solvent.

[0355] Examples of organic solvents include linear or branched C2- to C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0356] When the composition includes one or more organic solvents, the total content of the organic solvent(s) shall preferably be from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0357] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition that contains no, or very little, water, in particular less than 0.5% water, better less than 0.1% water, even better less than 0.05%, or even less than 0.01% water, by weight of the total composition. In particular, the composition does not include any water added during its preparation; any water that may be present could be supplied by the raw materials used during its preparation. Additives

[0358] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which we may mention polymers, other than associative polymers and non-associative polysaccharides, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives.

[0359] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0360] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0361] According to one embodiment, the composition just described does not include hydrogen peroxide. This composition is intended to be mixed, at the time of use, with a composition including hydrogen peroxide.

[0362] Before mixing with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, the composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a cream.

[0363] Preferably, the composition according to the invention, before mixing with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, has a viscosity greater than or equal to 100 poises (100 Pa.s), preferably greater than or equal to 130 poises (130 Pa.s), preferably still between 130 and 250 poises (130 and 250 Pa.s), measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1s; this viscosity can be determined using a Thermo Haake RS600 rotary rheometer, equipped with a 0-35 mm plane-plane geometry with a 1 mm air gap.

[0364] Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may include hydrogen peroxide. When it includes hydrogen peroxide, the composition is a ready-to-use composition.

[0365] According to a preferred embodiment, the ready-to-use composition comprises: - one or more peroxygenated salts; - one or more associative polymers; - one or more non-associative polysaccharides; - one or more hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C; and - hydrogen peroxide.

[0366] According to a particular embodiment, the ready-to-use composition comprises: - one or more persulfate(s); - one or more associative polymers; - one or more non-associative polysaccharides, - one or more hydrocarbons with a melting point above 25°C; and - hydrogen peroxide.

[0367] Preferably, the ready-to-use composition is also in the form of a cream.

[0368] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is from 8 to 13, preferably from 9 to 12. Process

[0369] The present invention also relates to a method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, which includes a step of applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount of a composition as defined above.

[0370] Preferably, the composition applied to the keratin fibers is obtained by mixing, before use, a composition according to the invention which does not include hydrogen peroxide with a composition including hydrogen peroxide.

[0371] According to a preferred embodiment, the process for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, according to the invention comprises: (i) a mixing step of a composition A according to the invention as described above which does not comprise hydrogen peroxide, with a composition B comprising hydrogen peroxide, (ii) an application step on said keratin fibers of the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

[0372] The composition resulting from the mixture in step (i) is called the ready-to-use composition.

[0373] This ready-to-use composition may include one or more of the ingredients described above. This ready-to-use composition may also include water, in particular from the composition containing hydrogen peroxide.

[0374] The ready-to-use composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. After treatment, the keratin fibers may be rinsed with water, or optionally washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

[0375] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.

[0376] Preferably, compositions A and B are mixed in a weight ratio A / B of 0.1 to 2, preferably 0.3 to 1.5, better 0.5 to 1.

[0377] Preferably, composition B comprises hydrogen peroxide in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 0.5 to 20%, and even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the weight of composition B.

[0378] Composition B is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water.

[0379] It may also include one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight.

[0380] Composition B also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0381] Composition B preferably comprises one or more fats such as those described above, preferably selected from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0382] Composition B may also include surfactants and thickening polymers.

[0383] Usually, the pH of composition B, when aqueous, is less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferably between 1.5 and 4.5. Kit

[0384] Another object of the invention is a device with at least two compartments for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition A as described above and at least a second compartment containing a composition B comprising hydrogen peroxide as described above.

[0385] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by suitable application means, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or brushes.

[0386] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

[0387] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as described above for the lightening of keratin fibers, and in particular of hair.

[0388] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

[0389] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions Al and A2

[0390] Composition A1 according to the invention and the comparative composition A2 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0391] [Tables 1] Al A2 POTASSIUM PERSULFATE 28.38 28.38 AMMONIUM PERSULFATE 9.95 9.95 SODIUM SILICATE 18 18 SODIUM METASILICATE 5 5 SODIUM STEARATE 4.72 4.72 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.75 - ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.75 1.5 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 1 1 DISODIUM EDTA 0.5 0.5 SILICA 0.05 0.05 MINERAL OIL / PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM 29 29 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.01 0.01 POLYETHYLENE* 1.89 1.89

[0392] * polyethylene, with a number-average molecular weight of 655, and a melting point 96°C. Composition B

[0393] Composition B was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0394] [Tables2] B TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 ME THACRYLATE COPOLYMER 0.4 CETEARETH-33 2 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 9 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 8 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06 PHOSPHORIC ACID Qs pH 3 + / - 0.2 WATER / AQUA Qs 100

[0395] At the time of use, compositions Al and A2 were respectively mixed with composition B in the weight ratio 1+1.5, to obtain mixtures Ml and M2.

[0396] The mixture M1 obtained is homogeneous, consisting of a single visible phase, smooth, whereas the mixture M2 is more consistent, gelled and in a clump.

[0397] The viscosity of the M1 and M2 mixtures was also measured using a Rheomat RM 180 rheometer (200 rpm 25°C, measurement at 30 s, mobile 4).

[0398] The results obtained are as follows (expressed in mPa.s):

[0399] [Tables3] Mixture Ml Mixture M2 Viscosity 7370 mPa.s 9245 mPa.s

[0400] Mixture M1 has a lower viscosity than mixture M2.

[0401] Thus, the M1 mixture according to the invention is easy to use, i.e. easy to apply and spread evenly on the hair, whereas the M2 mixture is more difficult to distribute on the hair.

[0402] Furthermore, the stability over time of the mixtures M1 and M2 was studied by observing the evolution of their macroscopic appearance, at room temperature (25°C), 24 hours after the mixtures were made.

[0403] After 24 hours, the mixture M1 still consists of a single homogeneous phase, whereas a syneresis phenomenon is observed with the mixture M2, which presents two distinct phases.

[0404] The Al composition according to the invention leads to a time-stable Ml mixture whereas the comparative composition A2 leads to a more consistent mixture which is unstable.

[0405] The Ml mixture also allows for even hair bleaching.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition comprising: - one or more peroxygenated salts; - one or more associative polymer(s); - one or more non-associative polysaccharide(s), and - one or more hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim in which the peroxygenated salt(s) are chosen from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even better from potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) is between 1 and 60% by weight, preferably between 5 and 55% by weight, more preferably between 10 and 50% by weight, and even more preferably between 20 and 45% by weight, better still between 30 and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and mixtures thereof, and preferably from polyethylene waxes.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point greater than 25°C is (are) chosen from ethylene homopolymers with a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, preferentially greater than or equal to 70°C, better still greater than or equal to 80°C, more preferably still, ranging from 85 to 150°C, better still from 90 to 120°C.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the total content of hydrocarbon(s) with a melting point above 25°C ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the associative polymer(s) is (are) chosen from anionic associative polymers, preferably from homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, more preferably from polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester type, the copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the total content of the associative polymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the non-associative polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from the following polymers, alone or as a mixture, these polymers being able to be modified physically or chemically: a) exudates of trees or shrubs including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - gum karaya (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae including: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); (c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); (d) microbial gums, including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); scleroglucan gum (polymer of glucose); (e) polymers extracted from plants, including: - celluloses (polymers of glucose); - starches (glucose polymers) and - inulin. and more particularly among, alone or in mixture, celluloses, guar gums, starches, preferentially among celluloses.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the non-associative polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters, and preferably from cellulose ethers, and particularly preferably from (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the total content of the non-associative polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises an alkaline agent, preferably selected from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, hy- sodium or potassium droxides, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and sodium silicate, and mixtures thereof, preferably among silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate, sodium silicate and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the alkaline agent(s) ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better still from 5 to 35% by weight, better still from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A composition according to any preceding claim, not comprising hydrogen peroxide.

15. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising hydrogen peroxide.

16. Process for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

17. Process for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising (i) a step of mixing the composition defined according to any one of claims 1 to 14 with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, (ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

18. Device with at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 and at least a second compartment containing a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

19. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15, for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair.