Composition for skin care

An anhydrous skin care composition combining specific fatty acid ester oils and hydrogenated oils effectively prevents scalp staining during hair treatments, while ensuring stability and suitable viscosity.

FR3137281B1Active Publication Date: 2025-06-27LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2022007965
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-07-01
Filing Date
2022-08-01
Publication Date
2025-06-27
Estimated Expiration
2042-08-01

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing skin care compositions fail to effectively prevent the scalp from being stained during hair treatments, while also maintaining stability and suitable viscosity.

Method used

An anhydrous composition comprising a combination of fatty acid ester oils with 14-20 carbon atoms and 6-10 carbon atoms, along with a blend of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil, in specific weight ratios, to form an oil gel or balm.

Benefits of technology

The composition effectively prevents scalp staining during hair treatments, remains stable over time, and maintains a suitable viscosity for application.

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Abstract

Composition for skin care The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for skin care, in particular for the scalp, comprising: (i) at least one fatty acid ester oil containing from 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol; (ii) at least one fatty acid ester oil containing from 6 to 10 carbon atoms and glycerol and (iii) a combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil, wherein the weight ratio of hydrogenated rapeseed oil to hydrogenated palm oil is between 45:55 and 90:10. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for skin care, in particular for the scalp, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the skin, in particular to the scalp. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: Composition for skin care Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition: in particular, the present invention relates to a composition for the care of the skin, in particular the scalp. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the care of the skin, in particular the scalp. RELATED ART

[0002] The skin constitutes a physical barrier between the body and its environment. It is made up of two tissues: the epidermis and the dermis.

[0003] The dermis provides solid support to the epidermis. It is also its nourishing element. It is mainly made up of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix, composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance known as ground substance, these components being synthesized by the fibroblast. It also contains leukocytes, mast cells or tissue macrophages. It also contains blood vessels and nerve fibers.

[0004] The epidermis is a desquamating multi-stratified epithelium averaging 100 qm thick and is traditionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes constituting the germinative layer of the epidermis, a spinocellular layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells positioned on the germinative cells, a granular layer consisting of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, keratohyalin granules and, finally, an upper layer known as the horny layer (or stratum corneum), consisting of keratinocytes in the terminal stage of their differentiation, called comeocytes. These are mummified anucleated cells that originate from keratinocytes.The stack of these corneocytes constitutes the horny layer responsible, among other things, for the barrier function of the epidermis, that is to say it constitutes a barrier against external aggressions, in particular chemical, mechanical or infectious and it also helps to protect the body against water loss.

[0005] In order to modify the appearance of hair, many products are developed to treat hair during coloring, bleaching, waving and / or straightening.

[0006] When applying hair coloring products, the scalp may be stained by the applied products.

[0007] It is therefore necessary to formulate a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin, particularly the scalp, which can prevent the scalp from being stained.

[0008] Furthermore, it is also desirable that the composition be stable and have a suitable viscosity. Summary of the invention

[0009] The object of the present invention is to provide a composition for treating the skin, especially the scalp, which can prevent the skin, especially the scalp, from being stained, is stable and has a suitable viscosity.

[0010] Therefore, in a first aspect, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition for the care of the skin, in particular the scalp, comprising:

[0011] (i) at least one fatty acid ester oil containing from 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol;

[0012] (ii) at least one fatty acid ester oil containing from 6 to 10 carbon atoms and glycerol and

[0013] (iii) a combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil,

[0014] wherein the weight ratio of hydrogenated rapeseed oil to hydrogenated palm oil is between 45:55 and 90:10.

[0015] The composition of the present invention may take the form of an oil gel or an oil balm.

[0016] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method of caring for the skin, in particular the scalp, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin, in particular the scalp.

[0017] It has been found that the composition according to the present invention can prevent the scalp from being stained by a treatment applied to the hair.

[0018] It has also been found that the composition according to the present invention is stable and has a suitable viscosity.

[0019] Other objects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0020] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0021] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0022] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the term "comprising" also refers to the embodiment in which no characteristics other than the specifically mentioned characteristics are present (i.e. “consisting of”).

[0023] Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about". Therefore, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which may be modified, if necessary, depending on the intended purpose.

[0024] Unless otherwise indicated, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.

[0025] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise indicated, to a weight percentage.

[0026] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, these small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition which contain them in residual quantity but are not deliberately provided. In particular, there is no water in the composition.

[0027] According to the first aspect, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition for skin care, in particular for the scalp, comprising:

[0028] (i) at least one fatty acid ester oil containing from 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol;

[0029] (ii) at least one fatty acid ester oil containing from 6 to 10 carbon atoms and glycerol and

[0030] (iii) a combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil;

[0031] wherein the weight ratio between hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil is between 45:55 and 90:10.

[0032] Fatty acid ester oil containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol

[0033] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid ester oil containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol.

[0034] The fatty acid containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms may be saturated or unsaturated. Examples of fatty acids containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms include palmitic acid, stearic acid and arachidic acid.

[0035] Advantageously, the fatty acid contains 14 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0036] Preferably, the fatty acid ester oil containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol is chosen from a vegetable oil.

[0037] Preferably, the fatty acid ester oil containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol is selected from vegetable oils comprising at least one fatty acid ester oil containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and glycerol, such as sunflower seed oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, argan oil, camellia oil, palm oil, corn germ oil, cottonseed oil, peanut oil, seed oil pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, babassu oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, linseed oil, safflower seed oil and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Preferably, the fatty acid ester oil containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol is selected from sunflower seed oil, jojoba seed oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, coconut oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil and avocado oil.

[0039] Mention may be made, as commercial vegetable oil products suitable for the composition according to the present invention, of Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil marketed under the name REFINED SUNFLOWER OIL by the company AAK KAMANI PRIVATE, of SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED oil marketed under the name JD FFL JOJOBA GOLDEN OIL by the company JOJOBA DESERT, of cocos nucifera (coconut) oil marketed under the name ACTIVATED VIRGIN COCONUT OIL by the company BIOTROPICS, of ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL oil marketed under the name LIPOFRUCTYL ARGAN BE LS 9779 by the company BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION, and of prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil marketed under the name APRICOT KERNEL OIL REFINE DAC by GUSTAV HEESS company.

[0040] Advantageously, the fatty acid ester oil containing from 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol is present in an amount of between 10% and 90% by weight, preferably between 30% and 80% by weight, better still between 60% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] Oil of fatty acid esters containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms and glycerol

[0042] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid ester oil containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms and glycerol.

[0043] The fatty acid containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms for the ester oil can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.

[0044] For example, the fatty acid may be hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, caprylic acid, nonanoic acid, capric acid, and a combination thereof.

[0045] In some embodiments, at least one fatty acid ester oil containing 6-10 carbon atoms and glycerol is selected from triglycerides of hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, caprylic acid, nonanoic acid, capric acid and a combination thereof.

[0046] Preferably, the fatty acid ester oil containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms and glycerol is a caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0047] As a commercial product of caprylic / capric triglyceride, it is possible to mention that sold under the name MASESTER E7000 LR01-1 / MB by the company PT MUSIM MAS.

[0048] Advantageously, the fatty acid ester oil containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms and glycerol is present in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 30% by weight, better still from 15% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrogenated oils

[0049] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises a combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil.

[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, the weight ratio of hydrogenated rapeseed oil to hydrogenated palm oil is from 45:55 to 90:10.

[0051] Preferably, the weight ratio between hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil is between 50:50 and 80:20.

[0052] Preferably, the weight ratio between hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil is between 50:50 and 70:30.

[0053] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil, wherein the weight ratio of hydrogenated rapeseed oil to hydrogenated palm oil is 50:50.

[0054] As a commercial product of a combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil, in which the weight ratio of hydrogenated rapeseed oil to hydrogenated palm oil is 50:50, mention may be made of the product marketed under the name DERMOFEEL VISCOLID MB by the company EVONIK.

[0055] Advantageously, the combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and palm oil hydrogenated is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 17% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0056] The composition of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides (e.g., hydroxyacetophenone) and mixtures thereof.

[0057] A person skilled in the art can choose the amount of conventional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0058] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition for the care of the skin, in particular the scalp, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0059] (i) from 60% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one vegetable oil comprising at least less one fatty acid ester oil containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol;

[0060] (ii) from 15% by weight to 20% by weight of caprylic / capric triglyceride and

[0061] (iii) from 5% by weight to 10% by weight of a combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil,

[0062] wherein the weight ratio between hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil is between 50:50 and 70:30. Galenic form and use

[0063] The composition of the present invention may take the form of an oil gel or an oil balm.

[0064] The viscosity of the composition according to the invention can be measured at 25°C, using a ProRheo RI80 viscometer equipped with an M4 spindle rotating at 200 rpm.

[0065] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of 2.4* 103 mpa-s to 19.2* 103 mpa-s, preferably 2.4* 103 mpa-s to 12* 103 mpa-s as measured at 25°C using a Rheomat R180 viscometer equipped with an M4 spindle rotating at 200 rpm.

[0066] The composition according to the present invention is stable, that is to say that the composition can remain unchanged for at least 2 months at 4°C or 45°C, without oil leakage.

[0067] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for the care of the skin, in particular the scalp, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin, in particular on the scalp.

[0068] The composition according to the present invention can prevent the skin, especially the scalp, from being stained.

[0069] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being of a limiting nature. EXAMPLES

[0070] The main raw materials used, the trade names and the suppliers of these materials are listed in Table 1.

[0071] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL REFINED SUNFLOWER OIL AAK KAMANI PRIVATE CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE MASESTER E7000 LR01-1 / MB PT MUSIM MAS HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL CEGESOFT HF 52 BASF SYNTHETIC WAX PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE NUCERA SOLUTIONS HYDROGENATED RAPESEED OIL (and) HYDROGENATED PALM OIL DERMOFEEL VISCOLID MB EVONIK

[0072] Example of invention (ELI) 1 and comparative examples 1-3

[0073] The compositions according to inventive example 1 (EI) 1 and comparative examples (CE) 1-3 were prepared according to the contents indicated in Table 2 (the contents are expressed, unless otherwise indicated, as weight percentages of the active ingredient relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0074] [Tables2] Components EL 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 % by weight 1 % by weight % by weight % by weight HE-LIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 15 15 15 15 HYDROGENATED RAPESEED OIL (and) HYDROGENATED PALM OIL* 5 - - - HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL** - 5 - - SYNTHETIC WAX - - 5 -

[0075] *: the weight ratio between hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil drugged is 50:50.

[0076] **: combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil in in which the weight ratio of hydrogenated rapeseed oil to hydrogenated palm oil is 40:60.

[0077] Preparation procedure:

[0078] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of Invention Example 1 as an example.

[0079] 1). Mix HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL and CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE to obtain an oily phase and heat the mixture to 80°C and homogenize the oily phase by stirring;

[0080] 2). Add the HYDROGENATED RAPESEED OIL (and) HYDROGENATED PALM OIL Hydrogenated DROGENATED in the oil phase and homogenize by stirring and;

[0081] 3). Discharge at 35°C.

[0082] The composition of Example 1 of the invention is an oil gel. Assessment

[0083] The viscosity, stability and protective capacity of each composition prepared above were characterized. Viscosity

[0084] The viscosity was measured at 25°C, using a Rheomat RI80 viscometer equipped with an M4 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 30 s of rotation of the spindle in the composition (time after which stabilization of the viscosity and the rotation speed of the spindle are observed), at a shear rate of 200 rpm.

[0085] The results regarding viscosity and stability have been summarized in Table 3.

[0086] [Tables3] Properties ELI EC. 1 EC. 2 Viscosity 15 UD 10 UD 25 UD 3.6*103mpa-s 2.4*103mpa-s 6*103mpa-s Stability

[0087] The appearance of each composition prepared above after storage at 4°C, or at 45°C for 2 months was observed to evaluate the stability of the composition.

[0088] The results regarding viscosity and stability were summarized in Table 4.

[0089] [Tables4] ELI Properties EC. 1 EC. 2 Stability 4°C No oil leakage No oil leakage Oil leakage 45°C Oil leakage No oil leakage Protective power

[0090] The in vitro protective function of the compositions of Invention Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was evaluated as follows.

[0091] 1. A 4 cm2 pigskin was washed with normal shampoo without care and dried.

[0092] 2. The composition to be tested was applied at 30q / cm2 to the pig's skin,

[0093] 3. Then, an oxidative hair coloring product (mixture of a cream black dye and a developer comprising 30 vol H2O2 mixed at a volume ratio of 1:1.5) was applied at 75q / cm2 on the pig's skin for 30 minutes,

[0094] 4. The skin was rinsed with normal shampoo without care.

[0095] 5. Photographs were taken and the scalp coloration was assessed.

[0096] The results of scalp coloring were summarized in Table 5.

[0097] [Tables5] Ngc* ELI EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Scalp stain (%) 90 10 30 50 70

[0098] Ngc* means that no protective composition is applied.

[0099] A 80% to 100% scalp stain indicates a completely black spot on the pig's skin.

[0100] A scalp coloration of 60% to 80% indicates a majority black coloration on the pig's skin.

[0101] A scalp stain of 40-60% indicates that the black spot occupies about half of the pig's skin.

[0102] A scalp stain of 10-30% indicates that the black stain on the pig's skin is less significant.

[0103] Table 5 shows that the composition of Invention Example 1 can provide better protection compared to the compositions of Comparative Examples 1-3.

Claims

Claims

1. Anhydrous composition for the care of the skin, in particular the scalp, comprising: (i) at least one fatty acid ester oil containing from 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol; (ii) at least one fatty acid ester oil containing from 6 to 10 carbon atoms and glycerol and (iii) a combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil, wherein the fatty acid ester oil containing from 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol is present in an amount of between 10% and 90% by weight, preferably between 30% and 80% by weight, more preferably between 60% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and wherein the weight ratio of hydrogenated rapeseed oil to hydrogenated palm oil is between 45:55 and 90:

10.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid ester oil containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol is selected from vegetable oils comprising at least one fatty acid ester oil containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and glycerol, such as sunflower seed oil, jojoba seed oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, coconut oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbitaceae oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil and avocado oil.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fatty acid containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms for the ester oil may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein at least one fatty acid ester oil containing 6-10 carbon atoms and glycerol is selected from triglycerides of hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, caprylic acid, nonanoic acid, capric acid, and a combination thereof, preferably the at least one fatty acid ester oil containing 6-10 carbon atoms and glycerol is a caprylic / capric triglyceride.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in in which the weight ratio between hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil is between 50:50 and 80:20, preferably between 50:50 and 70:

30.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 17% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 60% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one vegetable oil comprising at least one fatty acid ester oil containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerol; (ii) from 15% by weight to 20% by weight of caprylic / capric triglyceride and (iii) from 5% by weight to 10% by weight of a combination of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil, wherein the weight ratio between hydrogenated rapeseed oil and hydrogenated palm oil is between 50:50 and 70:

30.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition of the present invention may be in the form of an oil gel or an oil balm.

9. A non-therapeutic method of caring for the skin, in particular the scalp, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the skin, in particular the scalp.