Solid composition comprising a cationic surfactant, a starch, a polyol and a cationic polymer
A solid composition of cationic surfactants, starch, polyol, and cationic polymer addresses the issues of conventional liquid and solid conditioners by offering easy handling, rapid rinsing, and superior cosmetic performance with minimal water use.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022011156
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-10-26
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-23
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-10-26
AI Technical Summary
Conventional liquid keratin fiber conditioners are difficult to dose, prone to leakage, and require excessive rinsing water, while solid conditioners in powder or granule form often clump, disintegrate, or leave residues, failing to provide satisfactory cosmetic performance and ease of use.
A solid composition comprising cationic surfactants, starch, polyol, and cationic polymer, which enhances cohesion and handling, allowing easy dosing, rapid breakdown on contact with water, and homogeneous distribution, while minimizing residues and water usage.
The composition provides improved grip and dosing properties, rapid rinsing without residues, and excellent cosmetic benefits such as suppleness, softness, and detangling, with reduced water requirements and packaging advantages.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Solid composition comprising a cationic surfactant, a starch, a polyol and a cationic polymer
[0001] The present invention relates to a solid composition intended in particular for the cosmetic treatment, and more particularly for the care, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, and which comprises at least one cationic surfactant, at least one starch, at least one polyol and at least one cationic polymer.
[0002] The invention also relates to a packaging article containing said solid composition, as well as cosmetic treatment methods for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, implementing said solid composition or said packaging article.
[0003] The invention further relates to the use of said solid composition or said packaging article for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the care, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0004] In the field of hair hygiene, keratin fiber care (or conditioning) products are generally intended to condition these fibers to provide them with good cosmetic properties. Conventional products, such as conditioners, are most often in liquid form, more or less thickened. However, due to their liquid texture, these products can present several drawbacks, notably being difficult to measure.
[0005] Indeed, the more liquid they are, the more they tend to slip through the fingers, making them difficult to measure and leading to waste. These products can also leak from their packaging, which can cause inconvenience to the consumer when these products come into contact with clothing or objects, for example, during travel.
[0006] In order to modify the texture of these products, and in particular to make them more compact, thickeners are generally used. However, the addition of these compounds often comes at the expense of the cosmetic effects of the compositions. Furthermore, the use of these thicker compositions requires a large amount of rinsing water to remove the excess product from the fibers. Yet, in many countries where access to water is limited, rinsing time, and consequently the amount of water needed to thoroughly rinse the product, are key indicators of a composition's performance.
[0007] To overcome some of these problems, new solid cosmetic formulations, particularly conditioners in the form of solid granules or powder, have been developed. Such formulations are described, for example, in US 2021 / 007960. However, these new formulations do not always provide complete satisfaction. Those in loose powder form can present problems with volatility, grip, and / or dosage. Those in agglomerate form, such as granules, can tend to disintegrate or crumble with difficulty in the presence of water, adversely impacting their use and application to keratin fibers, and do not always provide satisfactory care. They can also be difficult to rinse out and sometimes even leave residues on the fibers that are unpleasant for the consumer.
[0008] Conditioners in powder or particle form may lose fluidity during storage due to the agglutination of the solid unit particles together, which may negatively impact the qualities of use.
[0009] These formulations may also not give complete satisfaction in terms of cosmetic performance, in particular in terms of suppleness, feel, softness, detangling, smoothing, and shine.
[0010] Thus, there is a real need to provide a solid composition with an improved environmental profile, i.e., one requiring little water throughout its use. The composition must not only be easy to grasp and break down easily, but it must also rinse quickly without leaving residues on the keratin fibers. With regard to solid compositions in powder or particle form in particular, these must not clump together during storage in order to avoid deteriorating their performance qualities.
[0011] The composition must also provide good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of suppleness, feel, softness, coating, shine and detangling.
[0012] It has now been discovered that a solid composition comprising at least one cationic surfactant, at least one starch, at least one polyol and at least one cationic polymer makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above, and in particular to offer a composition in solid form combining good conditioning power, without requiring large quantities of water.
[0013] The present invention therefore relates to a solid composition comprising: i) one or more cationic surfactants, ii) one or more starches, iii) one or more polyols, and iv) one or more cationic polymers.
[0014] Said solid composition may more particularly be a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, and advantageously, a hair conditioning composition.
[0015] The specific combination of compounds in the invention makes it possible to obtain a solid composition that is easy to scoop, handle, and dose. Indeed, the resulting composition exhibits a cohesion or granulation such that its gripping and dosing properties are improved, while avoiding unwanted agglomerations that could negatively impact its performance. The composition can then be packaged in single-dose form, a format that is particularly advantageous, for example, when traveling or playing sports (lighter bags, reduced risk of leaks, less waste).
[0016] In addition, this composition breaks down rapidly on contact with water and allows for easy and rapid spreading and homogeneous distribution on keratin fibers comparable to those of a classic liquid conditioner composition.
[0017] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain a good coating of the keratin fibers, with a homogeneous and slippery finish.
[0018] Furthermore, the composition of the invention rinses quickly without leaving unpleasant residues on the fibers and gives them a natural and clean feel after rinsing. Fibers treated with the composition of the invention exhibit good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of softness, suppleness, and feel. They are also well-defined and thus easier to detangle.
[0019] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular a care method, for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a solid composition as defined below, the solid composition being applied directly to said keratin fibers or after having been previously moistened with water.
[0020] The present invention further relates to the use of a solid composition as defined below for cosmetic treatment, preferably the care of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0021] The present invention also relates to a packaging article comprising: - an envelope defining at least one cavity, the envelope comprising one or more water-soluble and / or fat-soluble compounds; - a solid composition as defined above; it being understood that the solid composition is located in one of the cavities defined by the envelope.
[0022] This packaging device makes it possible, in particular, to solve the problems of dosing the solid composition. It also facilitates its storage and transport. In particular, the packaging device of the invention offers better protection of the composition against moisture.
[0023] The conditioning article may also allow a final keratin fiber care composition to be thicker in the hand, which may be in the form of a cream, without lumps, without leaving residues on the hair after rinsing.
[0024] The conditioning article can thus improve, in particular facilitate, the distribution of the composition on the keratin fibers.
[0025] The packaging article can allow better control of the dose of composition implemented on the keratin fibers, thus reducing the risks of waste.
[0026] The packaging article also helps to minimize the risks of disintegration of the composition.
[0027] The invention also relates to the use of the above conditioning article for cosmetic treatment, preferably for the care of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0028] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular a care process, for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a step of implementing at least one packaging article as defined above.
[0029] Preferably, said cosmetic treatment process comprises the following steps: a) mix the conditioning article in a composition suitable for solubilizing, in whole or in part, the casing of said conditioning article, b) apply the composition obtained in step a) to the keratin fibers, c) optionally leave to stand, d) rinse said keratin fibers, e) possibly dry said keratin fibers.
[0030] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.
[0031] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0032] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0033] Preferably, the solid composition according to the invention (final composition, after drying) has a water activity of less than 0.75, better less than 0.72, and even better less than 0.70. Water activity, Aw, represents the proportion of bound water relative to free water that is conducive to the growth of microorganisms. The value varies between 0 and 1. The activity is 0 for a completely dry product and 1 for pure water.
[0034] The solid composition according to the invention may include water added during its preparation and / or water that may come from the raw materials used during the preparation of said composition.
[0035] The solid composition according to the invention may be in the form of a powder, paste, particles (for example, spherical particles such as small beads or granules), compressed tablet, stick, or block. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a powder or particles.
[0036] By "powder" is meant a composition in powder form, preferably essentially free of dust (or fine particles). In other words, the particle size distribution is such that the weight proportion of particles that have a size less than or equal to 50 pm (fines proportion), preferably less than or equal to 45 pm (fines proportion) is advantageously less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight and more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of particles (particle size evaluated using a RETSCH AS 200 DIGIT particle size analyzer; Oscillation height: 1.25 mm / sieving time: 5 minutes).
[0037] By "paste" is meant a composition having a viscosity greater than 0.5 Pa.s (5 poises) and preferably greater than 1 Pa.s (10 poises), measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s; this viscosity being able to be determined by means of a cone-plate rheometer.
[0038] By "particles" we mean small, fragmented objects formed from aggregated solid particles of varying shapes and sizes. They may be regular or irregular in shape. In particular, they may be spherical (like granules, pellets, or beads), square, rectangular, or elongated like rods. Spherical particles are especially preferred.
[0039] Advantageously, the solid composition is in powder form.
[0040] Advantageously, the size of the powders or particles is included in its the largest dimension, between 30 pm and 5 mm, and more particularly between 45 pm and 2 mm, better between 50 pm and 1 mm, even better between 60 and 700 pm.
[0041] Advantageously, the solid composition is in powder form, the size of the powders being, in its largest dimension, between 30 µm and 5 mm, and more specifically between 45 pm and 2 mm, better between 50 pm and 1 mm, even better between 60 and 700 pm.
[0042] When the solid composition according to the invention is not in powder or particle form, it advantageously exhibits a penetration force at 25°C and under 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa (1 atm) greater than or equal to 200 g, preferably greater than or equal to 300 g, more preferably greater than or equal to 400 g, and even better greater than or equal to 500 g. The penetration force is determined by penetrometry. Texture analysis measurements are performed at 25°C using a Stable Micro Systems TA.XT Plus texture analyzer. The penetrometry experiments are carried out with a metal rod fitted with a screw-on tip, said tip being a 2 mm P / 2N needle for the upper part, connected to the measuring head. The piston penetrates the sample at a constant speed of 1 mm / s, to a height of 5 mm. The force exerted on the piston is recorded and the average value of the force is calculated.
[0043] The solid composition according to the invention can be in the form of a compressed solid composition, in particular using a manual or mechanical press. Preferably, the hardness of the compressed solid composition is between 10 and 300 N, better between 15 and 200 N, and even better between 15 and 100 N.
[0044] The density of the solid composition according to the present invention is preferably between 0.1 and 1, more preferably between 0.2 and 0.8, and even better between 0.3 and 0.7. It is measured as follows: A specific quantity (mass, m) of powder is placed in a graduated cylinder. The cylinder is then automatically tapped 2500 times. The resulting volume (v) is read from the cylinder, and the density (d) is then determined using the formula d=m / v.
[0045] Cationic surfactant(s) i) The solid composition according to the present invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants i).
[0046] A "cationic surfactant" is defined as a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the compositions according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functional groups within the compositions according to the invention.
[0047] Cationic surfactants are advantageously chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated; quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0048] Quaternary ammonium salts include, in particular:
[0049] quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la): in which: The R8 to Ru groups, whether identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to Ru groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens; and X is an anion, in particular, chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates, or alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates.
[0050] The aliphatic groups R8 to Ru can be chosen from among the alkyl groups in C1-C30, alkoxy in Ci-C30, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide in Ci-C30, alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(Ci2-C22)acetate and hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C30.
[0051] Examples include halides, particularly chlorides, of tetraalkylammonium such as dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chlorides, distearyldimethylammonium chlorides, cetyltrimethylammonium chlorides, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides.
[0052] We can also mention halides, and in particular chlorides, of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or of stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium; in particular the product marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.
[0053] quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (lia): | * X 7 X* in which: R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms; Ru represents a CrC4 alkyl group; Ris represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group. X is an anion, notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates.
[0054] Preferably, R[2 and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R[4 denotes a methyl group, R[5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.
[0055] quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia): (H la) in which: - Ri6 designates an alkyl group comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, - Rn designates hydrogen, an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), Ri6a, Rna, Ri8a, identical or different, designating hydrogen or an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - Ris, R19, R2o, and R2i, identical or different, designate hydrogen or an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and - X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(CrC4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
[0056] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) offered by the company FINETEX.
[0057] quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of the following formula (IVa): CÇ^O).-- 0 । ~ R»——q4tFL X OW ■ï- ■ y! vt ■ < L ■ “ L i ? A ’ ■ .■ R^ in which: - R22 is chosen from among the alkyl groups in C1-C6 and the hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups in C1-C6, - R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the R27 hydrocarbon groups in Ci-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; the R29 hydrocarbon groups in the form Ci-C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - r, s and t, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, - rl and tl, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, - x and z, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, - X is an anion, given that r2 + rl = 2r and tl +12 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R23 designates R27 and when z = 0 then R25 designates R29.
[0058] The R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
[0059] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
[0060] When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it can comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0061] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0062] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from among the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from the linear or branched Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0063] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
[0064] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0065] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
[0066] The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate or an alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function. The anion X- is more particularly a chloride, a methylsulfate, or an ethylsulfate.
[0067] In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (IVa) are used in particular, in which: - R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group, - x and y are equal to 1, - z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon groups in Ci4-C22> the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0068] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.
[0069] Examples of compounds with formula (IVa) include salts, particularly diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.
[0070] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids, particularly those of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol. Such compounds are, for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company Evonik.
[0071] The composition according to the invention may, for example, contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di-, and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US patents 4874554 and 4137180, may also be used. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131, may also be used.
[0072] Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
[0073] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0074] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0075] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.
[0076] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.
[0077] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, we can mention the amidoamines of the following formula (Va): RCONHR”N(R')2(Va) in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.
[0078] Fatty amidoamines of formula (Va) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, the palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0079] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0080] Preferably, the cationic surfactants i) are chosen from those of formula (la), (IVa) or (Va), and more preferably from the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0081] The total content of the cationic surfactant(s) i), present in the solid composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 8% by weight, and better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] Starch(s) ii) The solid composition according to the present invention comprises one or more starches ii).
[0083] The starch molecules usable in the present invention can originate from all plant sources of starch, in particular cereals and tubers; more particularly they can be starches from maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, oats, tapioca. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from corn or potato.
[0084] Starches can be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments.
[0085] More specifically, these reactions can be carried out in the following way: - pregelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example, drying and cooking in a drum dryer); - oxidation by strong oxidants leading to the introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule and to the depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite); - crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of starch molecules which will thus be linked together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups); - esterification in alkaline medium for grafting functional groups, including acyl in C1 to C6 (acetyl), hydroxyalkylated in C1 to C6 (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenylsuccinic.
[0086] In particular, mono-starch phosphates (of the type Am-O-P0-(O-X)2), distarch phosphates (of the type Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am) or even tri-starch (of the type Am-O-P0-(O-Am)2) or mixtures thereof can be obtained by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds; with Am meaning starch and X designating in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonia salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, omithine, citrulline.
[0087] Phosphorus compounds can be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.
[0088] Examples include distarch phosphates such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the AVEBE Company or STRUCTURE ZEA of NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).
[0089] A preferred starch is a starch that has undergone at least one chemical modification such as at least one esterification.
[0090] According to the invention, amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups can also be used. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably, they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate type, and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine type.
[0091] Amphoteric starches are in particular selected from compounds with the following formulas: formulas (Via) to (IXa), in which: - St-0 represents a starch molecule; - R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -C(O)-OH group; - n is an integer equal to 2 or 3; - M, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alioterrous metals such as Na, K, Li, a quaternary ammonium NH4, or an organic amine; and - R" represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8.
[0092] These compounds are described in particular in US 5,455,340 and US 4,017,460.
[0093] Starches of formula (Vlla) or are particularly used (Villa), and preferably starches modified by 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, that is, starches of formula (Vlla) or (Villa) in which R, R', R" and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2. Preferably, the amphoteric starch is a starch chloroethylamido dipropionate.
[0094] More particularly, the starches are chosen from maize starches, potato starches, rice starches and modified starches such as those mentioned above, in particular phosphated such as distarch phosphates such as those described above.
[0095] In one embodiment, the solid composition comprises at least two starches. More particularly, the solid composition comprises at least one unmodified starch (or native starch) such as maize starch, potato starch, or rice starch and at least one modified starch, in particular selected from those described above, and more particularly from the phosphate starches mentioned above, such as distarch phosphates.
[0096] Even more preferably, said starches comprise at least one corn, potato or rice starch, and at least one modified starch such as a phosphate starch.
[0097] The total content of the starch(s) ii), present in the solid composition according to the invention is preferably from 10 to 90% by weight, preferably from 20 to 85% by weight, better from 30 to 80% by weight, and better still from 40 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0098] In particular, the total content of unmodified starch(es) present in the solid composition according to the invention is preferably from 10 to 85% by weight, preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, better from 30 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0099] In particular, the total content of modified starch(es), especially phosphated starch(es), present in the solid composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and even better from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0100] Polyol(s) iii) The solid composition according to the invention further comprises one or more polyols iii).
[0101] The polyol(s) present in the solid composition of the invention are preferably chosen from the following polyols of formula (XII): R,2 RL IO :----: C-------: [A.] -------- C ----- ; । LJ m । OH OH (XII) formula (XII) in which: - R'i, R'2, R'3 and R'4, whether identical or different, independently designate a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, linear or branched, in C1 to C6 or a mono- or polyhydroxyalkylated radical in C1 to C6, - A denotes an alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical includes from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms, but no hydroxyl group, and - m denotes 0 or 1.
[0102] The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from polyols of formula (XII), in which m is 0, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), 1,2,3-propanetriol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl 2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol, glycerin, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.
[0103] The polyol(s) may also be selected from polyols of formula (XII), in which m is 1 and R'b, R'2, R'3, and R'4, identical or different, designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in the C1 to C6 position, and mixtures thereof. They may advantageously be selected from polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the product designated PEG-6 or PEG-8 in the CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Seventh Edition).
[0104] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from polyols of formula (XII), in which m is 1 and R'b, R'2, R'3, and R'4, identical or different, designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in C1 to C6, and whose molecular weight is less than 200, and their mixtures. According to this particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are preferably chosen from 3-methyl-1,3,5-pentanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol) and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from hexylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol and mixtures thereof.
[0105] Preferably, the molecular weight (MW) of said polyol(s) present in the solid composition of the invention is between 50 and 350, more preferably between 60 and 200, and even better between 70 and 150.
[0106] Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from diols, glycerin, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from compounds of formula (XII) in which R'i, R'2, R'3 and R'4, identical or different, independently designate a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in C1 to C6, glycerin and mixtures thereof.
[0107] Advantageously, the polyol(s) iii) are selected from glycerin, propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), pinacol (2,3-dimethyl 2,3-butanediol), 2,3-butanediol, polyethylene glycols, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, polyol iii) is glycerin, propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, polyol iii) is glycerin.
[0108] The total content of the polyol(s) iii) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0109] Cationic polymer(s) iv) The solid composition according to the invention further comprises one or more cationic polymers (iv).
[0110] For the purposes of this invention, "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are hydrophilic or amphiphilic.
[0111] Cationic polymers are preferably not siliconed (do not include a Si-O motif).
[0112] Preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain motifs comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly linked to it.
[0113] Preferably the cationic polymers according to the invention do not comprise anionic group or ionizable group into anionic groups.
[0114] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.
[0115] Among cationic polymers, the following may be mentioned in particular:
[0116] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs: ........CHf- G— OC ô to N r / X Rs —CHr - G— 0¾ NH HAS <' X R3 CH, C........ O -C C i X- HAS R ™N+™-R. R^ R. CHfC— o~c NH HAS Rr~X~~~^
[0117]
[0118] formulas in which: - R3, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5 and R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - Ri and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; and - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers which may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention: - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES, - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP, for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or the products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573. - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP; - vinylpyrrolidone / quaternized dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP, - Polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci-C4)trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium salts, such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil may be used in particular. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA.A cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the CIBA company.
[0119] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular inulins, celluloses and Cationic galactomannan gums. Among cationic polysaccharides, we can mention in particular cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0120] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR 1 492 597, and examples include polymers marketed under the names "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
[0121] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4,131,576, and examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are, more specifically, the products sold under the names "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.
[0122] Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic associative celluloses can also be used, which can be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0123] Preferably, quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0124] Preferably, hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI) may be cited: in which: - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb, and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, in C1 to C30, preferably an alkyl, and Q represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q' in which R'a, R'b, and R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, in C1 to C30, preferably an alkyl, and Q' represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl, linear or branched, in C8 to C30; - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.
[0125] Preferably, in formula (VI), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, from C8 to C30; better still from C10 to C24, or even from C10 to C1M; the dodecyl radical (C12) is a particularly good example. Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched alkyl group from C1 to C4, especially a methyl group.
[0126] Preferably, in formula (VI), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, from C8 to C30; better still from C10 to C24, or even from C10 to Cu; the dodecyl radical (C12) is a particularly good example. Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched alkyl group from C1 to C4, especially a methyl group.
[0127] Even better, R can be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.
[0128] Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.
[0129] Aryl radicals preferably refer to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
[0130] Examples include polymers with the following INCI names: - Polyquaternium-24, such as the QUATRISOFT LM 200® product, marketed by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (alkyl in Ci2), such as the product CRODACEL QL® and - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (alkyl in C[8]) such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.
[0131] Also citeable are hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R representing trimethylammonium chloride Cf,(CH3)3N+- and R' representing dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cr,(CH3)2(Ci2H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; commercial products include SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.
[0132] More particularly, polymers of formula (VI) are, for example, those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2 and 3 Pa.s (between 2000 and 3000 cPs), preferably between 2.7 and 2.8 Pa.s (between 2700 and 2800 cPs). Typically, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2.5 Pa.s (2500 cPs), SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2.7 Pa.s (2700 cPs) and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2.8 Pa.s (2800 cPs). You can also use SOFTCAT POLYMER SX-1300X with a viscosity between 1 and 2 Pa.s (1000 and 2000 cPs).
[0133] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more specifically in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, and examples include guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. For instance, guar gums modified with a salt (e.g., a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17, or JAGUAR Cl62 by the company RHODIA.
[0134] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched hydroxyalkylene chains, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.
[0135] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.
[0136] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are formed with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation using bifunctional agents. An example is adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymers, in which the alkyl radical has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably designates methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.
[0137] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.
[0138] (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as their main chain constituent motifs corresponding to formulas (VII) or (VIII): (VII) formulas (VII) and (VIII), in which: - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; - Rn designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - Rio and Rlb, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, an amidoalkyl group in C1 to C4; or Rio and Ru may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, denote heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Ru, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
[0139] We can cite more particularly the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO (and their homologues of low average molar masses by weight) and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".
[0140] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula (IX): formula (IX), in which: - Rn, Ru, Ris and Ri6, whether identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or Rn, RM, R[5 and R[6, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly including a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or Rn, RM, Ri5 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-Rp-D or -CO-NH-Rn-D group where Rn is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, Rn and R[5 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; Furthermore, if Ai designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also designate a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)n- group in which D designates: a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-; Or d) a ureylene group with the formula: -NH-CO-NH-.
[0141] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.
[0142] One can cite more specifically polymers which are made up of recurring motifs corresponding to the formula (X): formula (X) in which Rb R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to 20 and, X is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
[0143] A particularly preferred compound of formula (X) is one in which Rb R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, designated Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).
[0144] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising formula motifs (XI): formula (XI), in which: - Ri8, R19, R2o and R2i, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R[8, R[9, R20 and R2[ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, - X denotes an anion such as a halide, and - A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-ch2-ch2-.
[0145] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.
[0146] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as by for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF
[0147] (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.
[0148] (12) polymers comprising in their structure: (a) one or more patterns meeting the following formula (A): (HAS) (b) possibly one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (B): O
[0149] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.
[0150] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B).
[0151] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.
[0152] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0153] The cationic charge density of these polymers can vary from 2 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq / g.
[0154] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.
[0155] Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and their mixtures, more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums and their mixtures, and even better from cationic guar gums and their mixtures.
[0156] More preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides (family (2)), alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers (family 7) and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from mixtures of cationic galactomannan gums and alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers, and even better from mixtures of cationic guar gums and copolymers of salts (e.g. chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide.
[0157] The total content of the cationic polymer(s) iv) is preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0158] According to a preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and mixtures thereof, and the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) present in the solid composition according to the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0159] Non-siliconized fats The solid composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more fats other than silicones, i.e. one or more non-siliconized fats.
[0160] The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0161] The fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0162] The useful fatty substances according to the invention are non-siliconized.
[0163] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.
[0164] The non-siliconized fats used according to the invention may be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point of 25°C or lower at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0165] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0166] More particularly, the liquid fat or fats according to the invention can be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons in the range of C6 to Ci6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
[0167] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0168] As regards liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.
[0169] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0170] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils (or non-siliconized oils) of animal origin.
[0171] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and their mixtures.
[0172] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.
[0173] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, and linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic alcohol is used.
[0174] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, one may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0175] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.
[0176] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate and 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such than isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0177] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.
[0178] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26-
[0179] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoylstearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0180] The composition may also include, as a fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described below.
[0181] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.
[0182] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0183] Esters can also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0184] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.
[0185] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0186] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0187] Preferably, the liquid fat(s) are chosen from vegetable oils such as those defined above, liquid fatty esters such as those defined above and mixtures thereof,
[0188] Solid fats preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.
[0189] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
[0190] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.
[0191] Solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0192] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0193] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixtures: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); alcohol lignoceryl (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0194] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0195] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol esters.
[0196] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0197] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.
[0198] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0199] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.
[0200] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, having a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. In a way In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition containing them a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by returning the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0201] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0202] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, beeswax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0203] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2o to C60, such as Microwax HW.
[0204] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0205] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in the C8 to C32 range. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
[0206] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.
[0207] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®" », “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0208] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;
[0209] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0210] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.
[0211] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which: R1 designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in Ci6-C30; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R3 designates a hydrocarbon group in C15-C26, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in Ci5-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in Ci6-C30.
[0212] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in Ci6-C22; R2 designates a hydrogen atom and R3 designates a linear group saturated in C15.
[0213] Preferably, ceramides are used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0214] Compounds can also be used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids in C[2-C22]; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a hydrocarbon radical in C[2-C22], saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0215] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-pahnitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) cetyl acid amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.
[0216] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0217] Butters can also be used.
[0218] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting start temperature greater than 25°C and a melting end temperature less than 60°C.
[0219] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0220] We can mention in particular shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca Eatifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter. .
[0221] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.
[0222] As is known, shea butter is extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is usually extracted and refined.
[0223] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-siliconized fats, in particular selected from butters, vegetable oils, liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, they are selected from shea butter, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, isopropyl myristate, coco caprylate / caprate, and mixtures thereof.
[0224] Preferably, the solid composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid non-siliconized fats, preferably chosen from vegetable oils, liquid fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0225] When present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of the non-siliconized fat(s) will preferably be from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better from 2 to 10%, better from 3 to 9% by weight, even better from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0226] When present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of the liquid non-siliconized fat(s) will preferably be from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better from 2 to 10% by weight, even better from 3 to 9%, or even from 3 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0227] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) The solid composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
[0228] In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably non-siliconized, used in the solid composition according to the present invention, may be in particular secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0229] In particular, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof may be cited.
[0230] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, possibly quantified and usable, as defined above, we may also mention the compounds of the following respective structures (III) and (IV):
[0231] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (III) formula (III), wherein: - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as one chosen from among halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cr C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;
[0232] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) formula (IV), wherein: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra' represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.
[0233] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0234] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
[0235] Compounds of formula (V) can also be used: Ra''-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (V) formula (V), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra” represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra”-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer from 1 to 3.
[0236] Among the compounds of formula (V) we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
[0237] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.
[0238] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, such as cocobetaine, are advantageously used. C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.
[0239] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof, and even better from alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.
[0240] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
[0241] When present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0242] Carboxylic acid(s) The solid composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more carboxylic acids in Ci_6.
[0243] The carboxylic acid(s) in Ci 6 preferably conform to the following formula (Xa): in which: A represents a monovalent group when n is 0, or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; A represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and / or substituted by one or more hydroxy and / or amino groups; preferably A represents a monovalent Ci-C6 alkyl or phenyl group, or a polyvalent Ci-C6 alkylene or phenylene group possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; n represents an integer from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 5, better from 0 to 2.
[0244] More particularly, the carboxylic acid or acids of formula (Xa) are chosen from among the α-hydroxy acids, in which A represents either a phenyl group, or an alkylene group in C1-C6, especially in C2-C4, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; preferably by an OH group; and n goes from 0 to 2.
[0245] More particularly, the carboxylic acid or acids in Ci_6 is or are chosen from those of formula (Xa) in which: n=0 and A represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, particularly at C2-C4, or a C1-C6 alkyl group, particularly at C2-C4, substituted by an OH group; or n=0 and A represents a phenyl group, or a phenyl group substituted by an OH group; or n = 1 or 2, and A represents a Ci-C6 alkyl group, in particular a C2-C4 trivalent dion, or a Ci-C6 alkyl group, in particular a C2-C4 di- or trivalent substituted by an OH group.
[0246] Even more preferably, the carboxylic acid or acids in Ci_6 is or are chosen from salicylic acid, citric acid, glutaric acid and lactic acid, and the better it is citric acid.
[0247] Preferably the composition according to the invention comprises one or more carboxylic acids in Ci_6.
[0248] When present in the solid composition according to the invention, the total content of the carboxylic acid(s) in Ci-C6 is preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, better from 11 to 25% by weight, and better still from 12 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0249] Anti-caking agent(s) The solid composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more anti-caking agents.
[0250] For the purposes of this invention, "anti-caking agent" means a lubricant acting as an anti-caking agent.
[0251] The lubricant(s) that can be used are different from the cationic polymers defined above.
[0252] Among the lubricants that can be used in the solid composition of the invention, mention may be made in particular of silica, in particular anhydrous colloidal silica, sericite, polyamide (Nylon®), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) polymer powders, acrylate and dimethicone copolymers, stearic acid, metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearates, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate, alkali or alkaline earth metal carbonates, such as for example magnesium, sodium and calcium carbonates, fatty acids such as stearic acid, celluloses in particular crystalline, and mixtures thereof.
[0253] According to one embodiment, the anti-caking agent(s) are advantageously chosen from metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having of 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, better still among zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the lubricant is magnesium stearate.
[0254] According to another embodiment, the anti-caking agent(s) are advantageously chosen from alkali or alkaline-earth metal carbonates and their mixtures, preferably from magnesium carbonate, sodium carbonate, calcium carbonate and their mixtures; and more preferably magnesium carbonate.
[0255] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anti-caking agents
[0256] When present in the solid composition according to the invention, the total content of the anti-caking agent(s) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and better from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0257] The solid composition according to the invention may further comprise water.
[0258] Preferably the water content is less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, better less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0259] Preferably, the water content is from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and better from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0260] The solid composition according to the invention may further comprise sodium chloride. Its content may range from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, and better from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0261] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular a care method, for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a solid composition as defined above; the solid composition being applied directly to said keratin fibers or after having been previously moistened with water.
[0262] The solid composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, and preferably to wet keratin fibers.
[0263] The solid composition, thus applied, may optionally be rinsed or not, after a possible setting time of 1 to 15 minutes, preferably 2 to 10 minutes.
[0264] Preferably, the solid composition is rinsed off after application.
[0265] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the solid composition is applied directly to the keratin fibers, i.e. without being previously moistened and / or dissolved in water.
[0266] When, according to this first embodiment, the solid composition of the invention is applied directly (i.e., without prior wetting or disintegration) to dry keratin fibers, water may optionally be added to said fibers and then rubbed / massaged to solubilize said composition and form a liquid composition. The liquid composition thus obtained may then be rinsed off after a possible application time.
[0267] Conversely, the solid composition of the invention can also be applied directly (i.e., without prior wetting or disintegration) to the moist keratin fibers, then massaged / rubbed to disintegrate the particles and obtain a liquid composition. The resulting liquid composition can then be rinsed off after a possible application time.
[0268] According to another embodiment of the invention, the solid composition is pre-moistened and / or dissolved in water before being applied to the keratin fibers. In this embodiment, a small quantity (preferably from 1 to 3 g) of the solid composition is advantageously taken and dissolved with water, for example in the hand, so as to form a liquid composition. The resulting liquid composition can then be applied to the keratin fibers, whether dry or moist, before optionally being rinsed with water after a possible application time.
[0269] The present invention further relates to the use of a solid composition as defined above for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the care, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0270] The present invention also relates to a packaging article, preferably cosmetic, comprising: - an envelope defining at least one cavity, the envelope comprising one or more water-soluble and / or fat-soluble compounds, - a solid composition as defined above; it being understood that the solid composition is located in one of the cavities defined by the envelope.
[0271] The term "cosmetic conditioning article" means an article suitable for cosmetic use; in particular, for use of the conditioning article on keratin fibers, especially hair and / or the scalp. Specifically, the conditioning article allows for the conditioning of keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0272] Preferably, the packaging article according to the invention is water-soluble or fat-soluble at a temperature less than or equal to 35°C.
[0273] Preferably, the envelope of the packaging article according to the invention is water-soluble at a temperature less than or equal to 35 °C.
[0274] By "water-soluble" is meant soluble in water, in particular at a rate of at least 10 grams per liter of water, preferably at least 20 g / L, better at least 50 g / L at a temperature of 35°C or lower. Thus, when water, preferably at a temperature of 35°C or lower, is added to the packaging article, the casing will dissolve and release the solid composition present in one of the cavities of the casing.
[0275] By "liposoluble" means soluble in a liquid fat as defined below, in particular at a rate of at least 10 grams per liter of liquid fat, in particular in a vegetable or mineral oil such as Vaseline oil, preferably at least 20 g / l in a liquid fat, better at least 50 g / l in a fat, at a temperature less than or equal to 35°C.
[0276] The term "temperature less than or equal to 35°C" means a temperature not exceeding 35°C but greater than or equal to 0°C, for example ranging from more than 1 to 35°C, preferably from 5 to 30°C, more preferably from 10 to 30°C, and even better from 15 to 25°C. It is understood that all temperatures are given at atmospheric pressure (1 atm).
[0277] The packaging article may comprise one or more cavities, at least one of which contains the solid composition as defined above. Preferably, the packaging article comprises only one cavity containing the solid composition.
[0278] The packaging article's envelope comprises one or more water-soluble and / or fat-soluble compounds, preferably one or more water-soluble compounds advantageously selected from water-soluble polymers and their mixtures.
[0279] The water-soluble polymer(s) usable according to the present invention contain water-soluble motifs in their backbones. The water-soluble motifs are obtained from one or more water-soluble monomers.
[0280] By "water-soluble monomer" is meant a monomer whose solubility in water is greater than or equal to 1%, preferably greater than or equal to 5% at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0281] The water-soluble polymer(s) capable of forming the shell are advantageously obtained from water-soluble monomers comprising at least one double bond. These may be selected from cationic, anionic, non-ionic monomers and mixtures thereof.
[0282] Examples of water-soluble monomers that can be used as precursors of water-soluble motifs, alone or in mixtures, include the following monomers, which can be in free or salted form: - (meth)acrylic acid, - styrene sulfonic acid, - vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid, - vinyl phosphonic acid, - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide, - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide, - N-vinyllactams containing a cyclic alkyl group having 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam, - maleic anhydride, - itaconic acid, - vinyl alcohol with the formula CH2=CHOH, - vinyl acetate with the formula CH2=CHOC(O)CH3, - vinyl ethers of the formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - dimethyldiallyl ammonium halides (chloride), - Quatmized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (MADAME), - halides (chloride) of (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium (APTAC and MAPTAC), - methylvinylimidazolium halides (chloride), - 2-vinylpyridine and 4-vinylpyridine, - acrylonitrile, - glycidyl (meth)acrylate, - vinyl halides (chloride) and vinylidene chloride, - vinyl monomers of the following formula: H2C=C(R)-C(O)-X, in which: - R is chosen from H, (Ci-C6)alkyl such as methyl, ethyl and propyl, and - X is chosen from: - alkoxy of the type -OR' where R' is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons, possibly substituted by at least one halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a sulfonic group (-SO3), sulfate (SO4), phosphate (-PO4H2); hydroxy (-OH); primary amine (-NH2); secondary (NHR6), tertiary (-NR6R7) or quaternary (-N+R6R7R8) amine with R6, R7 and R8 being, independently of each other, a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the carbon atoms of R' + R6 + R7 + R8 does not exceed 6; - the groups -NH2, -NHR' and -NR'R" in which R' and R" are independently of each other hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, provided that the total number of carbon atoms of R' + R" does not exceed 6, said R' and R" being optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a hydroxy group (-OH); sulfonic (-SO3); sulfate (SO4); phosphate (-PO4H2); primary amine (-NH2); secondary amine (-NHR6), tertiary (NR6R7) and / or quaternary (-N+R6R7R8) with R6, R7 and R8 being, independently of each other, a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the carbon atoms of R' + R” + R6 + R7 + R8 does not exceed 6. As compounds corresponding to this formula, we can cite for example N,N-dimethylacrylamide, and N,N-diethylacrylamide; and - and their mixtures.
[0283] Examples of anionic monomers include (meth)acrylic acid, acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, itaconic acid and their salts of an alkali metal, an alkali-earth metal or an ammonium, or those derived from an organic amine such as an alkanolamine.
[0284] As examples of non-ionic monomers, we may mention in particular (meth)acrylamide, N-vinylformamide, N-vinylacetoamide and hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH, and vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CHOC(O)CH3.
[0285] The cationic monomers are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts derived from a diallylamine, and those corresponding to the following formula: H2C=C(R1)-D-N+R2R3R4, X in which: • Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, • R2 and R3, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl group, • R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C4 C1 alkyl group, or an aryl group, • D represents the following divalent motif: -(Y)n-(A)- in which: - Y represents an amide function, an ester (OC(O) or C(O)-O), a urethane or a urea, - A represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic alkylene group in C1 to C10 configuration, which may be substituted or interrupted by a divalent aromatic or heteroaromatic group. Alkylene groups may be interrupted by an oxygen atom, a nitrogen atom, a sulfur atom, or a phosphorus atom; the alkylene can be interrupted by a ketone function, an amide, an ester (OC(O) or C(O)-O), a urethane, or a urea, - n is an integer ranging from 0 to 1, • X represents an anionic counter ion, such as a chloride or a sulfate.
[0286] Examples of water-soluble cationic monomers include the following compounds and their salts: dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, (meth)acryloyl-oxyethyltrimethylammonium (meth)acrylate, (meth)acryloyloxyethyl-dimethylbenzylammonium (meth)acrylate, N-[dimethylaminopropyl](meth)acrylamide (meth)acrylate, (meth)acryl-amidopropyltrimethylammonium (meth)acrylate, (meth)acrylamido-propyldimethylbenzylammonium (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminohydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, (meth)acryloyloxyhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium (meth)acrylate, (meth)acryloyloxyhydroxypropyl-dimethylbenzylammonium (meth)acrylate, and dimethyldiallylammonium (meth)acrylate.
[0287] Among the water-soluble polymers that can be used according to the present invention, we can also mention polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA), poly(hydroxybutyrate)(PHB), poly(hydroxyvalerate) (PHV), and mixtures thereof.
[0288] Preferably, the water-soluble polymers are polymerized from one or more monomers selected from vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH, vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CHOC(O)CH3 and mixtures thereof.
[0289] The water-soluble polymers suitable for forming the outer shell of the packaging article may also be selected from water-soluble polymers derived from natural products, such as polysaccharides, i.e., polymers with sugar motifs. These water-soluble polymers are distinct from the cationic polysaccharide(s) that may be present in the solid composition.
[0290] By "sugar motif" is meant a motif derived from a carbohydrate of formula Cn(H2O)ni or (CH2O)n which may be modified by substitution and / or oxidation and / or dehydration. The sugar motifs which may be included in the composition of the polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, fructose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate.
[0291] The sugar motif polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may be nonionic, anionic, amphoteric, or cationic. The basic units of the sugar motif polymers of the invention may be mono- or disaccharides.
[0292] The following native gums, as well as their derivatives, may be cited as examples of polymers that could be used: a) exudates from trees or shrubs, including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae, including: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) gums from seeds or tubers, including: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - Konjac gum (glucose and mannose polymer) whose main constituent is glucomannan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide (500,000 < Glucomannan < 2,000,000) composed of D-mannose and D-glucose units with branching every 50 or 60 units approximately; d) microbial gums, including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); - biosaccharide gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, fucose and D-galactose), e) plant extracts including: - cellulose (polymer of glucose); - starch (polymer of glucose) natural or modified (aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphates); - inulin (polymer of fructose and glucose).
[0293] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatments include temperature. Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be nonionic, anionic, cationic, or amphoteric.
[0294] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
[0295] The non-ionic guar gums usable according to the invention can be modified by hydroxylakyl groups in C1 to C6. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0296] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum, so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
[0297] The degree of hydroxyalkylation varies preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
[0298] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0299] Guar gums modified with cationic groups, particularly useful according to the invention, are guar gums comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum.
[0300] According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.
[0301] These guar gums modified by cationic groups are products already known in themselves and are described, for example, in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,013,130. Such products are also sold, in particular, under the trade names of JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0302] As a modified locust bean gum, cationic locust bean gum containing hydroxypropyltrimmonium groups such as Catinal CLB 200 offered by the TOHO company can be used.
[0303] The starch molecules that can be used in the envelope of the packaging article according to the present invention are the same as those described above for the solid composition.
[0304] Preferably, starches of formula (Vlla) or (Villa) will be used in particular; and preferably starches modified by 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, that is to say starches of formula (Vlla) or (Villa) in which R, R', R" and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2. Preferably, the amphoteric starch is a starch chloroethylamido dipropionate.
[0305] Cellulose and cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
[0306] Among these derivatives, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.
[0307] Among the cellulose esters, we can mention inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates or phosphates), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyratesulfates and acetatepropionatesulfates.
[0308] Examples of cellulose ether esters include hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0309] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, examples include alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses.
[0310] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, carboxyalkylcelluloses and their salts may be mentioned. Examples include carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example, Blanose 7M from AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, as well as their sodium salts.
[0311] Among cationic cellulose ethers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses may be mentioned. The quaternizing agent may be, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride (for example, Celquat L200 from NATIONAL STARCH). Another cationic cellulose ether is hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium (for example, Ucare polymer JR 400 from AMERCHOL).
[0312] Among the associative polymers with sugar motif(s), we can mention celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof where the alkyl groups are in C8-C22; non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (alkyl in Ci6) sold by the company AQUALON; quaternized (cationic) alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 (Ci8 alkyl) sold by AMERCHOL, CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (Ci2 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C[8] alkyl) sold by CRODA and SOFTCAT SL 100 sold by AMERCHOL; non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as AMERCELL HM-1500 sold by AMERCHOL;non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL. ;
[0313] Examples of associative guar-derived sugar motif(s) polymers include hydroxypropylguars modified by a fat chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by a C22 alkyl chain) sold by LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by a CM alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by a C20 alkyl chain) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0314] The water-soluble polymer(s) with sugar motif(s) usable to form the envelope of the packaging article are preferably chosen from guar gums, locust bean gums, xanthan gums, starches and celluloses, in their modified (derivatives) or unmodified form.
[0315] Preferably, the sugar motif(s) polymer(s) are non-ionic.
[0316] The water-soluble polymers described above more particularly have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) greater than 1,000,000 and preferably between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000. The molecular weight is determined by the RSV (Reduced Spec Viscosity) method as defined in "Principles of Polymer Chemistry" Cornell University Press, Ithaca, NY 1953 Chapter VII "Determination of molecular Weight" pp 266-316.
[0317] The water-soluble or fat-soluble compound(s) capable of forming the envelope of the packaging article according to the invention may be in the form of fibers or film.
[0318] According to a first embodiment, the water-soluble or fat-soluble compound(s) are in the form of fibers. The term "fiber" means any object whose length is greater than its cross-sectional area. In other words, it refers to an object of length L and diameter D such that L is greater than, and preferably much greater than (i.e., at least three times greater than), D, where D is the diameter of the circle in which the cross-section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the L / D ratio (or aspect ratio) is chosen from the range of 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 5 to 500, and better still from 5 to 150. The cross-section of a fiber can be any shape: round, serrated, grooved, or bean-shaped, but also multilobed, in particular trilobed or pentalobed, X-shaped, ribbon-shaped, square, triangular, elliptical, or otherwise. The fibers of the invention can be hollow or solid.
[0319] According to this embodiment, the fibers can be spun, carded, or twisted. Advantageously, the fibers used in the context of the present invention are spun. The average diameter of the fibers used according to the present invention, whether identical or different, is less than 500 µm. Advantageously, such a diameter is less than 200 µm, preferably less than 100 µm, or even less than 50 µm.
[0320] Water-soluble fibers, in particular, include poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA)-based fibers, polysaccharide fibers such as glucomannans, starches, celluloses such as carboxymethylcelluloses, polyalginic acid fibers, polylactic acid fibers, and polyalkylene oxide fibers, as well as mixtures thereof. More preferably, the water-soluble fiber(s) used in the invention are chosen from among PVA-based fibers.
[0321] The fibers of the casing are generally intertwined. A "casing comprising water-soluble fibers" is understood to mean a casing that can be entirely composed of water-soluble fibers and that may include both water-soluble and water-insoluble fibers at a temperature of 35°C or lower, with the soluble fibers being more abundant than the insoluble fibers. The fiber casing must comprise at least 60% by weight of soluble fibers, preferably at least 70%, and better still at least 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the fibers. It may thus comprise, for example, more than 95% by weight, or even more than 99% by weight and even 100% by weight of water-soluble fibers relative to the total weight of the casing fibers.
[0322] When the envelope contains insoluble fibers, these can be of any material commonly used as insoluble fibers; for example, silk, cotton, wool, linen, polyamide (Nylon®), polylactic acid, modified cellulose (rayon, viscose, rayon acetate), poly-p-phenylene terephthalamide in particular Kevlar®, polyolefin and in particular polyethylene or polypropylene, glass, silica, aramid, carbon in particular in the form of graphite, Teflon®, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyethylene terephthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of the compounds mentioned above, such as polyamide / polyester or viscose / polyester fibers.
[0323] Furthermore, when the casing contains fibers, it can be woven or non-woven.
[0324] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the casing can be woven. Within the scope of the present invention, a "woven" material results from an organized assembly of fibers, in particular water-soluble polymeric fibers, and more particularly from an interlacing, in the same plane, of said fibers, arranged in the warp direction, and fibers arranged, perpendicular to the warp fibers, in the weft direction. The bonding obtained between these warp and weft fibers is defined by a weave.
[0325] Such a woven material results from an operation aimed at assembling the fibers in an organized manner such as weaving properly speaking, but can also result from knitting.
[0326] According to another variant of the invention, the envelope is non-woven.
[0327] For the purposes of this invention, "non-woven" means a substrate comprising Nonwovens are fibers, particularly water-soluble polymeric fibers, in which the individual fibers are arranged randomly in a sheet-like structure and are neither woven nor knitted. The fibers of nonwovens are generally bonded together, either by mechanical means (e.g., needle punching, air jetting, water jetting), by thermal action, or by the addition of a binder.
[0328] Such a nonwoven is for example defined by ISO 9092 as a web or sheet of directionally or randomly oriented fibers, bonded by friction and / or cohesion and / or adhesion, excluding paper and products obtained by weaving, knitting, tufting or sewing incorporating binding yarns or filaments.
[0329] A nonwoven fabric differs from paper in the length of the fibers used. In paper, the fibers are shorter. However, there are nonwoven fabrics based on cellulosic fibers that are manufactured using a wet process and have short fibers, similar to those in paper. The difference between a nonwoven fabric and paper is generally the absence of hydrogen bonding between the fibers in a nonwoven fabric.
[0330] Most preferably, the fibers used in the context of the present invention are chosen from synthetic fibers such as PVA fibers. In particular, the sheath is non-woven, and preferably made of non-woven PVA fibers.
[0331] To produce the nonwoven cover of the packaging article, water-soluble PVA fibers are preferably used at a temperature of 35°C or lower, such as the fibers sold by the Japanese company Kuraray under the name KURALON K-II, and particularly the WN2 grade, which is soluble from 20°C. These fibers are described in document EP-A-636716, which teaches the manufacture of water-soluble PVA fibers at temperatures not exceeding 100°C, by spinning and drawing the polyvinyl alcohol polymer in a dry or wet state in the presence of solvents that solubilize and solidify the fiber. The fiber thus obtained can be used to produce woven or nonwoven substrates.
[0332] These fibers can also be prepared from a spinning solution by dissolving a water-soluble PVA-based polymer in a first organic solvent, spinning the solution in a second organic solvent to obtain solidified filaments, and then wet-drawing the filaments, removing the first solvent, drying them, and subjecting them to heat treatment. The cross-section of these fibers can be substantially circular. These fibers have a tensile strength of at least 2.7 g / dtex (3 g / d). EP-A-0 636 716 describes such water-soluble PVA-based fibers and their manufacturing process.For example, fibers can also be formed by extrusion and deposited on a conveyor to form a fiber web which is then consolidated by a conventional fiber bonding technique, such as needle punching, hot bonding, calendering or hot air bonding (air through bonding), a technique in which the water-soluble web passes through a tunnel where hot air is blown, or hydrobonding which aims to bond the fibers under the action of fine jets of water under very high pressure, which cannot be applied to fibers whose dissolution temperature is too low.
[0333] As we have seen previously, the invention is not limited to the use of PVA, and fibers made from other water-soluble materials can also be used provided that these materials dissolve in water having the desired temperature, for example polysaccharide fibers marketed under the name LYSORB by the company LYSAC TECHNOLOGIES, INC or other fibers based on polysaccharide polymers such as glucomannans or starch.
[0334] The envelope may comprise a mixture of different water-soluble fibers at different temperatures (up to 35°C).
[0335] The fibers can be composite, and they can include, for example, a core and a sheath not of the same nature, for example formed of different grades of PVA.
[0336] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cover is a non-woven fabric comprising water-soluble fibers, alone or mixed with insoluble fibers as described above, with a maximum of 40% by weight of insoluble fibers relative to the total weight of the fibers constituting the layer. Preferably, the non-woven fabric consists essentially of water-soluble fibers, that is to say, it does not contain insoluble fibers.
[0337] According to another embodiment of the invention, the packaging material may consist of one or more films, each comprising one or more water-soluble and / or fat-soluble compounds, in particular those defined above. When the packaging material consists of several films, said films may be joined, for example glued together, to form a single unit film.
[0338] The thickness of the "global" film (i.e. the thickness of the single film when the envelope contains only one or of the unit film when the envelope contains several films) is advantageously between 10 and 1000 microns, preferably between 10 and 800 microns, and more preferably between 15-500 microns.
[0339] Film means, in particular, a continuous layer preferably formed of one or more water-soluble and / or fat-soluble compounds as defined above, in particular of polymer(s).
[0340] The main industrial methods of producing polymeric films are the extrusion of a molten polymer, the pouring of a polymer solution onto a polished metal surface (in some cases, the polymer solution is introduced into a precipitation tank), the pouring of a polymer dispersion onto a polished surface and calendering.
[0341] The films usable according to the present invention can be chosen from multilayer film-film, film-paper (coating) and film-coating.
[0342] During application by spraying, brushing, or various industrial processes, surface coatings undergo what is known as film formation, and in particular, the formation of a coating film. In most film formation processes, a liquid coating of relatively low viscosity is applied to a solid substrate and is cured into a solid, adherent film based on a high molecular weight polymer possessing the properties desired by the user.
[0343] Films usable according to the present invention include PVA films that can be manufactured from any industrial production method, such as a method of casting a PVA-based polymeric solution, an extrusion method in the presence or absence of water, a dry extrusion molding method or a biaxial orientation method.
[0344] The packaging material, as well as the envelope, may have any shape suitable for the intended use, for example, a rectangular, round, or oval shape. Preferably, it has a rounded geometry, for example, in the form of a sphere, disc, or oval, or is square or parallelepiped, preferably with rounded corners. The envelope preferably has dimensions that allow it to be grasped between at least two fingers. Thus, it may, for example, have an ovoid shape approximately 2 to 10 cm long and approximately 0.5 to 4 cm wide, or a circular disc shape approximately 2 to 10 cm in diameter, or a square shape approximately 2 to 15 cm on each side, or a rectangular shape approximately 2 to 25 cm long, it being understood that it may have any other shape and dimensions suitable for the intended use.
[0345] Preferably, the envelope can be round in shape with an internal diameter of 3 to 7 cm, more preferably 4 to 5 cm; to which can be added the dimension of the edges (sealed part) which can range from 1 to 5 mm, better from 2 to 4 mm; and a height of 2 to 7 mm, preferably from 3 to 5 mm.
[0346] The envelope may also be square or rectangular in shape with a length preferably from 2 to 6 cm, more preferably from 3 to 5 cm, and a width preferably from 2 to 5 cm, more preferably from 2.5 to 4 cm; to which may be added the dimension of the edges (sealed part) which may preferably range from 1 to 5 mm, and more preferably from 2 to 4 mm.
[0347] Advantageously, the casing has a low thickness and can be made of several layers of different materials. Preferably, the thickness of the casing ranges from 3 to 99.9% of its other dimensions. The casing is thus substantially flat, with thin edges.
[0348] The surface area delimiting the cavity or cavities advantageously has an area less than 625 cm², preferably between 0.025 cm² and 400 cm², more preferably between 1 and 200 cm², better between 2 and 50 cm², and even better between 4 and 25 cm², in order to achieve optimized compaction of the composition. It has been observed that when the surface area of the article is within the above ranges, the compaction of the solid composition into powder is less pronounced, and the transformation of the powder into a fluid composition in the hands is easier, without the formation of agglomerates.
[0349] Preferably, the height of the envelope is greater than or equal to 2 mm, more preferably from 2 to 10 mm, and even better from 3 to 7 mm.
[0350] Preferably, the film or films used in the context of the present invention are chosen from synthetic films, such as PVA and / or PVOH films, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0351] Preferably, the envelope consists of several layers, for example, 2 or 3 layers, of films each preferably made of different materials. Advantageously, at least one of these films is a film comprising or consisting of PVA and / or PVOH.
[0352] Preferably, the film or films are sealed to form one or more cavities which will include the solid composition of the invention and prevent it from escaping.
[0353] Advantageously, the envelope represents from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, better from 4 to 10% by weight, and better still from 4 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the packaging article.
[0354] Advantageously, the solid composition as defined below represents 80 to 99.5% by weight, preferably 85 to 99% by weight, more preferably 90 to 98% by weight, better still 90 to 96% by weight, and better still 92 to 96% by weight, relative to the total weight of the packaging article.
[0355] The weight ratio between the total weight of the solid composition of the invention and the total weight of the envelope advantageously goes from 80 / 20 to 99 / 1, preferably from 85 / 15 to 98 / 2, and more preferably from 90 / 10 to 97 / 3.
[0356] Advantageously, the packaging article comprises 1 to 8g, preferably 2 to 6g of solid composition; and 0.1 to 1g, preferably 0.2 to 0.7g of envelope.
[0357] The present invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a step of implementing a packaging article as defined above; preferably, said cosmetic treatment process comprises the following steps: i) mix the conditioning article in a composition capable of solubilizing, in whole or in part, the casing of said conditioning article, ii) apply the composition obtained in step i) to the keratin fibers, iii) optionally leave to set, (iv) rinse the said keratin fibers, and v) possibly dry said keratin fibers.
[0358] It is understood that the composition suitable for solubilizing the coating depends on the nature of the coating. In other words, the composition suitable for solubilizing the coating is water or an aqueous composition when the packaging article contains predominantly or solely a hydrophilic coating. And, the composition suitable for solubilizing the coating is an anhydrous organic composition or an aqueous composition comprising at least one liquid fat or at least one organic solvent other than liquid fats, such as inferior monoalcohols, for example ethanol, or polyols, for example propylene glycol or glycerin. when the packaging item contains mostly or exclusively a lipophilic envelope.
[0359] Thus, the aqueous composition may simply be water. The aqueous composition may optionally include at least one polar solvent. Among the polar solvents that can be used in this composition are organic compounds that are liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and at least partially miscible with water.
[0360] By way of example, one can cite more particularly alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol such as, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
[0361] More particularly, if one or more solvents are present, their respective content in the aqueous composition varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of said aqueous composition.
[0362] The dilution ratio (expressed by weight) between one or more packaging articles, as defined above, and the composition suitable for solubilizing the packaging article(s) is preferably between 10 / 90 and 90 / 10, and more preferably between 10 / 90 and 50 / 50. Better still, this dilution ratio is 20 / 80.
[0363] In particular, the composition obtained after mixing (step i) of the process) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. It is advantageously left to remain on the keratin fibers for a period of 1 to 15 minutes, preferably 2 to 10 minutes.
[0364] Then, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water. They may optionally be washed with shampoo, followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
[0365] The present invention further relates to the use of a conditioning article as defined above for the cosmetic treatment, more particularly the care, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0366] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
[0367] Examples In the examples that follow, all quantities are given, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active material (%AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0368] Example 1 A composition 1 according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below, the contents of which are indicated as % by weight of MA relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0369] [Tables 1] Composition 1 Behentrimonium Chloride 2.4 Corn Starch (Zea mays (corn) starch) 43.3 Distarch Phosphate 10 Citric Acid 14.8 Soybean Oil 1 Isopropyl Myristate 2 Sunflower Seed Oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil) 0.5 Shea Butter (Butyrospermium Parkii Butter) 3 Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 0.5 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.2 Sodium Chloride 0.5 Magnesium Carbonate 7 Isopropyl Alcohol 0.5 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.8 Water 7 Glycerin 3 Fragrance 3.5
[0370] The powdered ingredients (corn starch, starch phosphate, citric acid, guar) were mixed with agitation in a tank. The liquid ingredients (except the fragrance) were heated to 40°C. These ingredients were added as a binder to the tank by spraying and mixed. Finally, the fragrance was added by spraying and mixed. The mixture was then dried in an oven at 45°C for 20 hours. After cooling to room temperature, the mixture was ground using a grinder to obtain a powder. A fairly free-form powder formulation (with a slope angle of 30°) was obtained. a density of 0.48 and water activity 0.628 (after drying). Particle size before grinding X50%=286 µm and after grinding X50%=216 µm.
[0371] According to the present invention, the slope angle represents the characteristic angle of a powder pile obtained by mechanically pouring the powder from a funnel and constitutes an indication of the flowability of a powder. As an example, a clogging powder with difficult flow has a slope angle greater than 55°.
[0372] The composition thus prepared is packaged in powder form in a water-soluble sachet made from PVA. The packaging thus obtained can then be used as a care composition: it is placed in the palm of the hand, water is added to dissolve it and form a cream, and then applied to the hair, preferably previously moistened.
[0373] Example 2 Compositions A (according to the invention) and B (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% MA):
[0374] [Tables2] Composition A (invention) Composition B (comparative) Behentrimonium chloride 3.0 3.0 Corn starch (Zea mays (corn) starch) qs 100 qs 100 Distarch phosphate 10 10 Citric acid 14.8 14.8 Soybean oil 1 1 Isopropyl myristate 2 2 Sunflower seed oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil) 0.5 0.5 Shea butter oil 3 3 Coco-caprylate / caprate 0.5 0.5 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0.5 0.5 Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 Magnesium carbonate 7 7 Hydroxypropyl chloride Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.8 - Glycerin 3 3 Fragrance 2.2 2.2 Water 6.6 6.6
[0375] The powdered ingredients (corn starch, distarch phosphate, citric acid, guar gum, sodium chloride, magnesium carbonate) were mixed with agitation in a tank. The liquid ingredients (except the fragrance) were heated to 40°C. These ingredients were added as a binder to the tank by spraying and mixed. Finally, the fragrance was added by spraying and mixed. The mixture was then dried in an oven at 45°C for 20 hours. After cooling to room temperature, the mixture was ground using a grinder to obtain a powder.
[0376] A powder was obtained for composition A according to the invention while the comparative composition B formed a paste.
Claims
Demands
1. Solid composition in the form of compressed powder comprising: i) one or more cationic surfactants, ii) one or more starches, iii) one or more polyols, and iv) one or more cationic polymers, v) one or more non-siliconized fats, the total content of the polyol(s) iii) ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the solid composition having a hardness between 10 and 300 N.
2. A solid composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) i) is or are selected from: quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la): % A * X (la) _ % K, _ wherein: the R8 to Ru groups, identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to Ru groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens; and X is an anion; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (lia): ?» “1 * A | y \___ / in which: Rn represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Ru represents an alkyl group in Ci-C4, Ris represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in CrC4, X is an anion; quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia): | 2X - H» Ù I in which: - Rie designates an alkyl group comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, - Rn designates hydrogen, an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), R[6a, Rna, Risa, identical or different designating hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, - Ri8, R19, R2o and R2B, whether identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and - X is an anion; quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of the following formula (IVa): —FU OR” * .......^CtH!2 {OH)„--------O-;— Rss in which: - R22 is chosen from among the alkyl groups in C1-C6 and the hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups in C1-C6, - R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the R27 hydrocarbon groups in Ci-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; the R29 hydrocarbon groups in Ci-C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26, and R28, identical or different, are chosen from among the C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - r, s, and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6, - rl and tl, identical or different, are 0 or 1, - y is an integer from 1 to 10, - x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, - X is an anion, it being understood that r² + rl = 2r and tl + 12 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R23 designates R27 and when z = 0 then R25 designates R29 amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably corresponding to the following formula (Va): RCONHR”N(R')2(Va) in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical,saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably a C7-C23 linear or branched alkyl radical, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably a C7-C23 linear or branched alkenyl radical; - R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.
3. Solid composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) i) are selected from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine salts, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine salts, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine salts, and behenamidopropyl dimethylamine salts. dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; and more particularly among behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
4. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the cationic surfactant(s) i) ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, and better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the starch(s) ii) are selected from maize starches, potato starches, rice starches and modified starches, in particular phosphated such as distarch phosphates, and mixtures thereof.
6. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one unmodified starch such as maize starch, potato starch, or rice starch and at least one modified starch, and more particularly among phosphate starches, and mixtures thereof.
7. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the starch(s) ii) is from 10 to 90% by weight, preferably from 20 to 85% by weight, preferably from 30 to 80% by weight, and better from 40 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol(s) iii) are selected from those of the following formula (XII): R'5:---C-----[A] ------ C--- ^4 ' । L Jîü । OH QH (XII) formula (XII) wherein: - R'1, R'2, R'3 and R'4, identical or different, independently denote a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical, from C1 to C6, or a mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical from C1 to C6, - A denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms, but no hydroxyl group, and - m denotes 0 or 1, preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 2,3-butanediol, polyethylene glycols, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, the 1,3-Butanediol, 3-Methyl-1,5-Pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-Pentanediol), dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof,more preferably among glycerin or propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, more preferably polyol iii) is glycerin.
9. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the polyol(s) iii) is preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) iv) are selected from cationic polysaccharides, alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers and mixtures thereof, more preferably from mixtures of cationic galactomannan gums and alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers, better still chosen from mixtures of cationic guar gums and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts and acrylamide.
11. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the cationic polymer(s) iv) is greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and better from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more non-siliconized fats, selected from butters, vegetable oils, liquid fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, preferably from shea butter, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, isopropyl myristate, coco caprylate / caprate, and mixtures thereof.
13. Solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, preferably selected from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.
14. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more carboxylic acids in C16, preferably corresponding to the following formula (Xa): rh oh <xa) ho j* o dans laquelle : a représente un groupe monovalent quand n vaut 0, ou polyvalent est supérieur égal 1; hydrocarboné saturé insaturé, cyclique non-cyclique, aromatique non-aromatique, comprenant de 1 à 6 atomes carbone, éventuellement interrompu par plusieurs hétéroatomes, et substituté groupes hydroxy amino; préférence alkyle en ci-c6 phényle, alkylène enCi-C6 or phenylene optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; n represents an integer from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 5, better from 0 to 2, more preferably the carboxylic acid(s) in Ci 6 are chosen from salicylic acid, citric acid, glutaric acid and lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.
15. A cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibers a solid composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims; the solid composition being applied directly to said keratin fibers or after having been previously moistened with water.
16. Packaging article comprising: - a casing defining at least one cavity, the casing comprising one or more water-soluble and / or fat-soluble compounds; - a solid composition in the form of a compressed powder comprising: i) one or more cationic surfactants, ii) one or more starches, iii) one or more polyols, and iv) one or more cationic polymers, v) one or more non-siliconized fats; the solid composition having a hardness between 10 and 300 N, it being understood that the solid composition is located in one of the cavities defined by the casing.
17. A cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a step of implementing a packaging article as defined in claim 16, preferably, said cosmetic treatment process comprises the following steps: i) mixing the packaging article in a composition capable of solubilizing, in whole or in part, the casing of said packaging article, ii) apply the composition obtained in step i) to the keratin fibers, iii) optionally let stand, iv) rinse said keratin fibers, and v) optionally dry said keratin fibers.
18. Use of a solid composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 or of a conditioning article as defined in claim 16 for the care of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.