COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING NATURAL EMULSIFIERS AND THIOPYRIDINONE COMPOUNDS
A combination of thiopyridinone compounds and natural emulsifiers stabilizes cosmetic compositions, addressing the challenge of formulating stable, skin-lightening products with natural ingredients, achieving effective skin-lightening results in low viscosity formulations.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022011483
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-11-04
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-24
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-11-04
AI Technical Summary
There is a need for a stable cosmetic composition that effectively lightens the skin and reduces dark spots by using natural emulsifiers, as synthetic emulsifiers like PEG-based ones are less numerous and offer fewer natural benefits, making formulation more difficult.
A combination of thiopyridinone compounds and a mixture of natural emulsifiers, such as inulin lauryl carbamate and C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, stabilizes oil-in-water cosmetic compositions, providing stability and efficacy comparable to PEG-based emulsifiers.
The natural emulsifier combination effectively stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions, offering skin-lightening benefits with a low viscosity, suitable for topical applications like lotions and creams.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING NATURAL EMULSIFIERS AND THIOPYRIDINONE COMPOUNDS SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE
[0001] The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions comprising a combination of natural emulsifiers and a thiopyridinone compound. CONTEXT OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0002] The ultimate target of the cosmetics industry has always been to deliver products with benefits for the skin such as hydration, moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening, cleansing, and others. Whitening or lightening the skin always arouses the interest of consumers, especially those with a dark or dull complexion. Unfortunately, at different periods of their lives, some people experience the appearance on their skin, and more particularly on their hands, of darker and / or more colored spots, which give the skin a heterogeneity. These spots are in particular due to a high concentration of melanin in the keratinocytes located on the surface of the skin.
[0003] Therefore, there is a need in the art for a cosmetic composition that provides a stable formulation that includes actives for skin lightening and reducing dark spots, or a combination thereof. SUMMARY OF DISCLOSURE
[0004] The present disclosure relates to stable oil-in-water cosmetic compositions comprising a thiopyridinone compound and a mixture of natural emulsifiers. The cosmetic compositions have a low viscosity. The compositions described in the present disclosure are unique compared to other traditional oil-in-water compositions which contain emulsifiers containing PEG groups which offer the greatest flexibility and stability during formulation due to the oligomeric nature of the molecules. However, for naturalness reasons, achieving emulsion stability using molecules of more natural origin may prove useful. Unlike primarily PEG-based emulsifiers and other synthetic emulsifiers, natural emulsifiers are much less numerous. Furthermore, they do not have the same advantages as the aforementioned oligomeric emulsifiers.Natural emulsifiers are often more difficult to formulate, but they offer natural benefits.
[0005] The inventors have discovered that the inclusion of a combination of thiopyridinone type compound (I) or (!') and a mixture of natural emulsifiers surprisingly stabilizes oil-in-water cosmetic compositions. The oil-in-water cosmetic composition generally includes:
[0006] i) at least one compound chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer of formula (!') below; and their optical isomers, racemates, and / or solvates such as hydrates, alone or as a mixture: OO
[0007] Formulas (I) and (I') in which:
[0008] -Ri denotes a radical chosen from:
[0009] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0010] b) a linear saturated C1-C10 or C3-C10 branched alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from:
[0011] i)-O-R3
[0012] ii)-S-R3;
[0013] - R2 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0014] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0015] b) a linear C1-C12 or branched C3-C12 or cyclic C3-C8 saturated hydrocarbon group, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from:
[0016] i) -O-R3
[0017] ii) -S-R3
[0018] iii) -C(O)-O-R3;
[0019] iv) a C5-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more Cr-C8 alkoxy radicals;
[0020] c) a C5-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more CrC8 alkoxy radicals
[0021] -R3 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0022] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0023] b) a linear C1-C10 or branched C3-C10 saturated alkyl group;
[0024] ii) at least two natural emulsifiers; and
[0025] wherein the oil-in-water cosmetic composition is physically stable.
[0026] In certain embodiments, compound i) is typically present in the cosmetic compositions in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some instances, compound i) is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, compound i) is typically present in the cosmetic compositions in an amount of about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0027] In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may include a mixture of at least two or more natural emulsifiers that have an intermediate to high HLB. In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may include a mixture of at least two or more natural emulsifiers that have an HLB of about 10 to about 15. In one or more embodiments, the at least two or more natural emulsifiers have an HLB of about 10 to about 15.In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include at least two or more emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of inulin lauryl carbamate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside, APGs, Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, sucrose and glucose esters and ethers, amino acid-based emulsifier, hydrogenated lecithin, lecithins, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate and a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, the at least two or more natural emulsifiers are inulin carbamate.
[0028] In some embodiments, the at least two or more natural emulsifiers are present from about 0.3 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In one or more embodiments, the sucrose has an intermediate to high HLB.
[0029] In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may include non-natural emulsifiers.
[0030] In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more thickening polymers.
[0031] In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may include one or more fatty compounds.
[0032] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition has a low viscosity.
[0033] In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may include inulin lauryl carbamate which may be present from about 0.2% by weight to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0034] In one or more embodiments, the cosmetic composition may have a pH ranging from about 4.5 to about 6.5, preferably from about 5 to about 6.
[0035] In one or more embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include:
[0036] i) from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight of at least one compound selected from the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer of formula (!') below; and their optical isomers, racemates, and / or solvates such as hydrates, alone or as a mixture:
[0037] Formulas (I) and (I') in which:
[0038] -Ri denotes a radical chosen from:
[0039] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0040] b) a linear saturated C1-C10 or C3-C10 branched alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from:
[0041] i) -O-R3
[0042] ii)-S-R3;
[0043] - R2 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0044] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0045] b) a linear or branched C3-Ci2 or cyclic C3-C8 saturated hydrocarbon group, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from:
[0046] i) -O-R3
[0047] ii) -S-R3
[0048] iii) -C(O)-O-R3;
[0049] iv) a C5-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more Cr-C8 alkoxy radicals;
[0050] c) a C5-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more C1-C8 alkoxy radicals
[0051] -R3 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0052] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0053] b) a linear C1-C10 or branched C3-C10 saturated alkyl group;
[0054] ii. about 0.5 to about 2% by weight of at least two or more emulsifiers natural products selected from the group consisting of inulin lauryl carbamate, Cl2-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside, APGs, Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Esters and Ethers of Sucrose and Glucose, Amino Acid Emulsifier, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithins, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate and a mixture thereof.
[0055] wherein the weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0056] The cosmetic compositions may be used in a method which comprises applying the cosmetic compositions to human skin.
[0057] It has been proven that natural emulsifiers are capable of effectively stabilizing an o / w emulsion containing the newly developed raw material, a thiopyridinone compound, with the same efficiency as PEG-based emulsifiers.
[0058] These and other aspects of the disclosure are described in more detail in the detailed description of the disclosure.
[0059] The present disclosure describes exemplary embodiments in accordance with the general inventive concepts and is not intended to limit the scope of the disclosure in any way. Indeed, the disclosure as described in the specification is broader than and not limited by the exemplary embodiments presented herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meaning. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0060] The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions generally comprising at least one compound corresponding to the following formula (I) or (I1), designated “thiopyridinone type compound”.
[0061] The present disclosure provides unique cosmetic compositions compared to conventional cosmetic compositions, as they contain a combination of thiopyridinone type compound and a mixture of natural emulsifiers, which prove to be stable oil-in-water cosmetic compositions.
[0062] The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure generally include:
[0063] i) at least one compound chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer of formula (I') below; and their optical isomers, racemates, and / or solvates such as hydrates, alone or as a mixture: H
[0064] Formulas (I) and (I') in which:
[0065] -Ri denotes a radical chosen from:
[0066] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0067] b) a linear saturated C1-C10 or C3-C10 branched alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from:
[0068] i) -O-R3
[0069] ii)-S-R3;
[0070] - R2 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0071] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0072] b) a linear C1-C12 or branched C3-C12 or cyclic C3-C8 saturated hydrocarbon group, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from:
[0073] i) -O-R3
[0074] ii) -S-R3
[0075] iii) -C(O)-O-R3;
[0076] iv) a C5-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more Cr-C8 alkoxy radicals;
[0077] c) a C5-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more CrC8 alkoxy radicals
[0078] -R3 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0079] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0080] b) a linear C1-C10 or branched C3-C10 saturated alkyl group;
[0081] ii) at least two natural emulsifiers; and
[0082] wherein the oil-in-water cosmetic composition is physically stable.
[0083] The inventors discovered that the natural emulsifiers were capable of effectively stabilizing an emulsion containing the newly developed raw material, a thiopyridinone compound, with the same efficiency as PEG-based emulsifiers.
[0084] Cosmetic formulations comprising the novel combination that are suitable for topical application to the skin include low viscosity compositions such as lotion, serum, gel, cream gel.
[0085] The term “natural,” as used herein, means a compound or component obtained directly from the earth or soil or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification, or filtration. A “natural emulsifier” could still be subjected to a synthetic process. For example, C12-22 alkyl glucoside is not extracted from plants. It is made synthetically from C12-22 alcohols (extracted and separated from natural sources) and glucose (from natural sources). It is still considered completely “natural” because it is composed of 100% natural components, even if the end result is made synthetically.
[0086] The term "natural," as used herein, is defined as having more than 80% w / w of natural elements present in the raw material. In general, the % naturalness of MP is equal to the molecular weight of the natural portions of the molecule divided by the total molecular weight of the molecule. For example, if we consider sucrose laurate as a general example, there are two components to synthesize this raw material: sucrose and lauric acid. Sucrose is 100% natural, that is, it is extracted from sugarcane; therefore, 100% of the carbons in the molecule are natural. Similarly, lauric acid is 100% natural, as it is derived from coconut; therefore, 100% of the carbons in the molecule are natural. Although a synthetic process is carried out to make sucrose laurate, 100% of the carbons that make up the molecule come from natural sources.
[0087] Suitable components, such as those listed below, may be included or excluded from formulations for cosmetic compositions depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the cosmetic compositions and / or the use of the formulation (e.g., lotion, serum, gel, etc.). Thiopyridinone Compounds
[0088] For the purposes of this disclosure, and unless otherwise indicated: • a “linear or branched C3-C12 saturated hydrocarbon group” is equivalent to a “linear or branched (C3-C12) alkyl group” which corresponds to a linear or branched C3-C12 saturated hydrocarbon group, and preferably a linear or branched C3-C10 hydrocarbon group, more preferably a linear or branched C3-C16 hydrocarbon group; preferably, the linear or branched groups may be chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl and decyl.
[0089] More preferably, the linear or branched saturated alkyl groups may be chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl and octyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, n-pentyl, n-nonyl, isobutyl. • a saturated C3-C8 hydrocarbon cyclic group is a mono or bicyclic cycloalkyl group containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular a monocyclic C5 to C7 cycloalkyl group such as the cyclohexyl group, • an “alkoxy radical” is an alkyloxy radical for which the alkyl radical is a linear or branched CrCi6 and preferably CrC8 hydrocarbon radical; • when the alkoxy group is optionally substituted, this implies that the alkyl group is optionally substituted as defined above; • an “aryl” group represents a carbon-based group, monocyclic or bicyclic, fused or not, comprising from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and in which at least one cycle is aromatic; preferably, the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl group, more preferably a phenyl group; • the term “at least one” is equivalent to the term “one or more”; and • the term "inclusive" for a concentration range means that the limits of this range are included in the defined range.
[0090] The salts of the compounds of formula (I), (I'), (II) or (II1) as defined below include the conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from an organic or inorganic acid or from an organic or inorganic base.
[0091] As salts of the compounds of formula (I), (I'), (II) or (II'), mention may be made of:
[0092] the salts obtained by addition of the compound of formula (I) or (II) to: - a mineral base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and sodium, potassium or calcium carbonate or hydrogen carbonate, for example;
[0093] or - an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; in particular, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, ethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-dimethylaminopropanol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol, 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may be mentioned.
[0094] Mention may also be made of amino acid salts, for example lysine, arginine,
[0095] guanidine, glutamic acid and aspartic acid. Advantageously, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) or (II) (when they comprise a carboxy group) may be chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium salts and ammonium salts. • An “organic or inorganic acid salt” is more particularly chosen from the salts chosen from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methanesulfonic acid and ethanesulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid; x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid H3PO4; xiii) acetic acid CH3C(O)OH; xiv) triflic acid CF3SO3H; and xv) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4; • Acceptable solvates of the compounds described in the present disclosure include conventional solvates such as those formed during the preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol. • Optical isomers are in particular enantiomers and diastereoisomers. The compounds used according to the present disclosure therefore correspond to formula (I) or to the tautomer (I') or their salts, their optical isomers, racemates, and / or solvates such as hydrates and their derivatives, alone or in mixture. O $ H
[0096]
[0097]
[0098]
[0099] 0) Formulas (I) and (F) in which: Ri denotes a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; (b) a linear C1-C10 or C3-C10 branched saturated alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from among :
[0100] i) -O-R3
[0101] ii)-S-R3;
[0102] R2 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0103] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0104] b) a linear or branched C3-Ci2 or cyclic C3-C8 saturated hydrocarbon group, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from:
[0105] i) -O-R3
[0106] ii) -S-R3
[0107] iii) -C(O)-O-R3;
[0108] iv) a C5-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more Cr-C8 alkoxy radicals;
[0109] c) a C5-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more C1-C8 alkoxy radicals
[0110] R3 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0111] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0112] b) a linear C1-C10 or branched C3-C10 saturated alkyl group;
[0113] Compound (I1) is the tautomeric form of compound (I) when a tautomeric equilibrium exists according to the following scheme: (0 (O
[0114] According to one embodiment of the disclosure, Ri represents a hydrogen atom.
[0115] According to another embodiment of the disclosure, Ri represents a linear or branched (C1-C10) alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, n-pentyl, n-nonyl, isobutyl, more preferably ethyl. In particular, said alkyl group of Ri is not substituted.
[0116] According to one embodiment of the disclosure, R2 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0117] According to another embodiment of the disclosure, R2 represents a linear or branched (C1-C10) alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, n-pentyl, n-nonyl, isobutyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl; said alkyl group of R2 not being substituted.
[0118] According to another embodiment of the disclosure, R2 represents a linear or branched (C1-C10) alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched (C3-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, n-pentyl, n-nonyl, isobutyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl; said alkyl group being substituted by one or more groups chosen from i), ii), iii) and iv) as defined hereinbefore. Preferably, said alkyl group is substituted by one or more groups chosen from i), ii) and iii), more preferably by one or more groups chosen from i) and iii), better substituted by a group iii) such as carboxy.
[0119] Another variant for the radical R2 is that said alkyl group is substituted by a group iv) in particular substituted by a phenyl group.
[0120] According to another embodiment of the disclosure, R2 represents a cycloalkyl group (C3-C8), preferably a cycloalkyl group (C5-C7) such as cyclohexyl.
[0121] According to another embodiment of the disclosure, R2 represents a C5-C12 aryl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more C1-C8 alkoxy radicals, preferably a phenyl group in particular unsubstituted.
[0122] According to one embodiment, R3 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0123] According to another embodiment, R3 represents a linear C1-C10 or branched C3-C10 saturated alkyl group; in particular a linear (C1-C6) alkyl group or a branched (C3-C6) alkyl group, preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl group such as the methyl group.
[0124] Preferably, the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer (!) or their salts, their optical isomers, racemates, and / or solvates such as hydrates and their derivatives, alone or in mixture;
[0125] have the following meanings:
[0126] Ri denotes a radical chosen from:
[0127] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0128] b) a linear C1-C6 or C3-C6 branched saturated alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from:
[0129] i) -O-R3
[0130] ii)-S-R3;
[0131] preferably optionally substituted with one or more groups i)
[0132] R2 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0133] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0134] b) a linear C1-C10 or branched C3-C10 or cyclic C3-C8 as in C5-C6 saturated hydrocarbon group, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from:
[0135] i) -O-R3
[0136] ii) -SR-,
[0137] iii) -C(O)-O-R3;
[0138] iv) a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more C1-C4 alkoxy radicals such as methoxy;
[0139] preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) and iii), preferentially iii) such as carboxy
[0140] R3 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0141] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0142] b) a linear C1-C6 or branched C3-C6 saturated alkyl group;
[0143] Preferably, the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer (!) or their salts, their optical isomers, racemates, and / or solvates such as hydrates and their derivatives, alone or as a mixture;
[0144] have the following meanings:
[0145] Ri denotes a radical chosen from:
[0146] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0147] b) a linear saturated C1-C4 or C3-C4 branched alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from i) -OR3>more preferably unsubstituted;
[0148] R2 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0149] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0150] b) a linear C1-C10 or branched C3-C10 or cyclic C3-C8 or C5-C6 saturated hydrocarbon group, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from:
[0151] i)-O-R3
[0152] iii) -C(O)-O-R3;
[0153] iv) a C5-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more CrC4 alkoxy radicals;
[0154] R3 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0155] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0156] b) a linear C1-C4 or branched C3-C4 saturated alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl.
[0157] Preferably, the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer (!) or their salts, their optical isomers, racemates, and / or solvates such as hydrates and their derivatives, alone or in mixture;
[0158] have the following meanings:
[0159] Ri is a hydrogen atom; and
[0160] R2 denotes a radical chosen from:
[0161] a) a hydrogen atom;
[0162] b) a linear C1-C5 or branched C3-C5 or cyclic C3-C8 or C5-C6 saturated hydrocarbon group, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from v) -C(O)-O-R3, preferably substituted by a group iii) -C(O)-O-R3;
[0163] R2 is even more preferably a linear C1-C4 or branched C3-C4 saturated hydrocarbon group substituted by a group iii) -C(O)-OR3.
[0164] According to another preferred embodiment, the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer (I1) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) as well as their tautomers, their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers, and their racemates,
[0165] Formulae (II) and (II') in which R1 and R3 have the same meaning as for the compounds of formula (I) and (I') and X denotes an alkylene radical -(CH2)n- with n being an integer ranging inclusively from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 6, more preferably from 1 to 4, such that 1, preferably R3 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0166] Preferably, the compounds of formula (I), the following compounds are preferably used, and their tautomer or their salts, their optical isomers, racemates, and / or solvates such as hydrates and their derivatives, alone or in mixture: No. Structure Chemical Name CAS No. 1 0 A4. '“■'K ! i ' H N-ethyl-2-thioxo-1,2-d ihydropyridine-3-carbo xamide 91859-75-5 2 *........4 '3 N-methyl-2-thioxo-1,2 -dihydropyridine-3-car boxamide 91859-74-4 3 N-octyl-2-thioxo-1,2-d ihydropyridine-3-carbo xamide 91859-77-7 4 yk kv 4 N-benzyl-2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridine- 3 -c arb oxamide 91859-79-9 5 ■ _ -carboxamide 91859-78-8 7 N-[2-(4-methoxyphenyl)ethyl]-2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridine-3-carbo xamide 923682-88-6 8 .-X--. N-(2-methylpropyl)-2-t hioxo-1,2-dihydropyri dine-3-carboxamide 1100027-79- 9 9 ; * H N-pentyl-2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridine- 3 -c arb oxamide 330667-57-7 10 O A___~ T T "" ~ N-nonyl-2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridine- 3 -c arb oxamide 1031149-44- 6 11 H / V^o / / " \ ) / O N-(2-hydroxyéthyl)-2-t hioxo-1,2-dihydropyri dine-3-carboxamide 12 cS ••'—s >x. "'7;;;-.ç--'" ' 'Z Zh, ! ' L l ZZ" Z H N,N-diéthyl 2-mercaptonicotinamid e 13 w '<-Z’ ''Z------- L Av \ T : s V N-éthyl-N-(2-hydroxyé thyl)-2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridine-3-carboxa mide 14 n » r Z1’-- Z^-' N-(2,3-dihydroxyprop yl)-2-thioxo-1,2-dihydr opyridine-3-carboxami de 15 0 ^x-, .Àx. .--■' x ' ...vH N-( 1,3-dihydroxypropa n-2-yl)-2-thioxo-1,2-di hydropyridine-3-carbo xamide 16 H ? N- [(2-thioxo-1,2-dihyd ropyridin-3-yl)carbony l]ethyl alaninate 17 N- [(2-thioxo-1,2-dihyd ropyridin-3-yl)carbony l]phenyl ethyl alaninate 18 r' k ..¾ KN ai. Ethyl N-methyl-N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridin-3-yl)carbonyl]glycinate 19 jj Ethyl N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridin-3-yl)carbonyl]glycinate 20 i -,. ■ i,X ' N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridin-3-yl)carbonyl 1]glycine 21 UU Jx. CH> ^N-' "''SH N-methyl-N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridin-3-yl)carbonyl]glycine 22g. \ Z \ f Z ( s N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-thioxo-1,2-dihydr opyridine-3-carboxami de 23 ZG N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-thioxo-1,2-dihydrop yridine-3-carboxamide 24 ro N-butyl-2-thioxo-1,2-d ihydropyridine-3-carbo xamide
[0167] Among these compounds, the following compounds are more particularly preferred: No. Structure Chemical Name CAS No. 1 1 XHH N-ethyl-2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridine-3-carboxamide 91859-75-5 2 / '....... Z.*'!- / 7 \\ / . / VJ x\ X 'Ç N-methyl-2-thioxo-1, 2-dihy dropyridine- 3 -c arboxamide 91859-74-4 4 i < N-benzyl-2-thioxo-1, 2-dihy dropyridine- 3 -c arboxamide 91859-79-9 6 ü 'N"' H N-cyclohexyl-2-thiox o-1,2-dihydropyridine -3-carboxamide 91859-78-8 7 .,,4¾¾.. ' vUX" H N- [2- (4-methoxyphen yl)ethy 1] -2-thioxo-1,2 -dihy dropyridine- 3 -ca rboxamide 923682-88-6 9 x; N,N-diethyl 2-mercaptonicotinami 14 Ci Oî< N-(2,3-dihydroxyprop yl)-2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridine-3-carboxa mide 15: i'dH N-( 1,3-dihydroxyprop an-2-yl)-2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridine-3-car boxamide U À oh 16 H $ ■■••'■■■■•. Àx^8 h3c N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridin-3-yl)carbo nyl]ethyl alaninate 17 N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridin-3-yl)carbo nyl]phenyl ethyl alaninate 18 o-1,2-dihydropyridin-3-yl)carbonyl]ethyl glycinate 19 .• s V vyc^“ N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridin-3-yl)carbo iiyljglyemate ethyl 20 a ■ .-^ '-X -^xx^v xs N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridin-3-yl)carbo iiyljglyeme
[0168] Better still, among these compounds, the following compounds are more particularly preferred: No. Structure Chemical name CAS No. 1 ô X 'CMs h H jM H N-ethyl-2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridine-3-car boxamide 91859-75-5 9 330667-57-7 ? 7 N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridin-3-yl)carbo nyl]ethyl alaninate 18 Zx^. - X. ■ ■ - - N-methyl-N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridin-3-yl)carbonyl]glycinate d'éthyle : Ï | r ''' j 19 s N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridin-3-yl)carbo nyljglycinate d'éthyle 20 / =\ AJ / fi \ \ T N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihy dropyridin-3-yl)carbo nyl]glycine 21 fYYY“ H N-methyl-N-[(2-thiox o-1,2-dihydropyridin-3-yl)carbonyl]glycine
[0169] Even more preferably, among these compounds, the following compounds are more particularly preferred: No. Structure Chemical Name CAS No. 18 ? fVYV Ethyl N-methyl-N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridin-3-yl)carbonyl]glycinate 19 JL .0. .¾ (T rr ' XN' H Ethyl N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridin-3-yl)carbonyl]glycinate 20 / ~\ / / \ y / \ OX Ethyl N-[(2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridin-3-yl)carbonyl]glycine 21 11 Jx JL H N-methyl-N-[(2-thiox o-1,2-dihydropyridin-3-yl)carbonyl]glycine
[0170] In a most preferred embodiment, the compound according to the present disclosure is as follows:
[0171] All the compounds can be obtained by a chemical process known to those skilled in the art, from commercially available reagents. For example, the synthesis process disclosed in European patent application EP3 390 363 can be used.
[0172] The composition used according to the disclosure comprises at least one compound of formulas (I) and / or (II) as described above, in a physiologically acceptable medium.
[0173] Compound (I), (I'), (II) and / or (II1) may be present in the composition used according to the disclosure in an amount ranging for example from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Natural emulsifiers
[0174] In various embodiments, the natural emulsifiers may be selected from: Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside, APGs, Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides and Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate, other sucrose and glucose esters and ethers, amino acid-based emulsifiers, hydrogenated lecithin, lecithins, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.
[0175] Hydrophobically modified natural emulsifiers include, for example, inulin laurylcarbamate, commercially available from Beneo Orafti under the trade name Inutec SP1.
[0176] Suitable natural emulsifiers with an HLB of about 10 include, but are not limited to limit, polyglycerides and their mixture.
[0177] The fatty acid esters of a sugar, which can be used as non-ionic amphiphilic lipids, can be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of C8-C22 fatty acids and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C14-C22 fatty acids and methylglucose. The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters which can be used in the emulsion comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl or alkenyl chain containing respectively from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof.
[0178] As examples of esters or mixtures of esters of a fatty acid and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, mention may be made of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and their mixtures, such as the products sold by the company Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, Fl 10 and F160 having, respectively, an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilie Balance or Hy-drophilic-Lipophilic Balance) of 5, 7, 11 and 16; and, as an example, of esters or mixtures of esters of a fatty acid and methylglucose, mention may be made of methylglucose distearate and polyglycerol-3, sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tego-care 450. Mention may also be made of glucose monoesters or maltose monoesters, such as methyl O-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and O-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.
[0179] Fatty alcohol ethers of a sugar which can be used as non-ionic amphiphilic lipids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C8-C22 fatty alcohol and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C4-C22 alcoholic alcohol and methylglucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.
[0180] The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers which can be used in the emulsion of the present disclosure comprise a linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl chain, comprising respectively from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the ethers can be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.
[0181] As examples of fatty alcohol ethers of a sugar, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides, such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetearyl glucoside, optionally in the form of a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tego-care CG90 by the company.
[0182] Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel, but also ara-chidylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidylglucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic.
[0183] More particularly, as non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of this type, sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, methylglucose and polyglycerol-3 distearate, and alkyl polyglucosides are used.
[0184] Natural emulsifiers having an HLB of about 10 to about 15 will typically be used in an amount of about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0185] The total amount of natural emulsifier present in the compositions is generally from about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 3.0% by weight to about 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 4.0, 4.4, 4.6, 4.8, 5.0, 5.2, 5.4, 5.6, 5.8, 6.0, 6.2, 6.4, 6.6, 6.8, 7.0, 7.5 or 8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. pH correction agent
[0186] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one pH correcting agent (pH corrector). Two or more pH correcting agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of pH correcting agent or a combination of different types of pH correcting agents may be used.
[0187] As pH correction agent, at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one basifying agent (alkaline agent) may be used.
[0188] The acidifying agent may be a monovalent or polyvalent acid, such as divalent.
[0189] The acidifying agents may be, for example, mineral (inorganic) acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, or organic acids such as carboxylic acids, for example tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, as well as sulfonic acids.
[0190] The basifying agent may be a monovalent or polyvalent base, such as divalent.
[0191] Basifying agents can be mineral (inorganic) or organic, or hybrid.
[0192] The mineral basifying agents may be chosen from aqueous ammonia; alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates; alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide; and mixtures thereof.
[0193] The organic basifying agents may be chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, preferably less than 10, and even more significantly less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of greatest basicity. In addition, organic amines do not include any alkyl or alkenyl fatty chains comprising more than ten carbon atoms.
[0194] The organic basifying agent may be chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and amine compounds of formula (III) below:
[0195] in which
[0196] W represents a divalent C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups or a C1-C6 alkyl radical, and optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O and N, and
[0197] Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical.
[0198] Examples of amine compounds of formula (III) which may be cited include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
[0199] The term “alkanolamine” designates an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched CrC8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0200] Alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals may be suitable for the present invention. Among the compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropa-nolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0201] The amino acids which can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from the carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.
[0202] As amino acids which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, omithine, ci-
[0203]
[0204]
[0205]
[0206] trulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. It may be preferable that the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function. Such basic amino acids may preferably be chosen from those corresponding to formula (IV) below: (IV) R™ CH, —CH\ v co2h in which R represents a group chosen from:
[0207]
[0208]
[0209]
[0210]
[0211]
[0212]
[0213] -(CH2)3-NH2, -(CH2)2-NH2, -(CH2)2-NH-CO-NH2, and Compounds corresponding to formula (IV) include histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline. The organic basifying agent may be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to histidine, which has already been mentioned in amino acids, the following compounds may be mentioned in particular: pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic basifying agent may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention include, in particular, carnosine, anserine and balein. The organic basifying agent may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type which may be used in the present invention, in addition to arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-Diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l-sulfonic acid.
[0214] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the organic basifying agent may be selected from amino acids, preferably basic amino acids, and more preferably arginine, lysine, histidine or mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the organic basifying agent may be arginine.
[0215] Hybrid compounds that may be cited include salts of the aforementioned amines with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid. Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride may in particular be used.
[0216] The pH correcting agent may be present in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0217] The pH correcting agent may be present in an amount of 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0218] The pH correcting agent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0219] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention has a pH of 4.5 or higher, and more preferably 5 or higher.
[0220] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention has a pH of 6.5 or less and, more preferably, 6 or less.
[0221] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention has a pH of 4.5 to 6.5 and, more preferably, of 5 to 6.
[0222] The pH of the composition means the pH of the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0223] It may be preferable that at least one buffer or buffering agent is also used, as a pH correcting agent, in combination with the acidifying agent and / or the basifying agent, in order to stabilize the pH of the composition according to the present invention.
[0224] As the buffer, any of the commonly known buffers may be used. For example, salts of acids or bases, preferably salts of weak acids or weak bases, may be used. For example, sodium citrate or sodium lactate may be used as the buffer, if citric acid or lactic acid is used as the acidifying agent. Cosmetically acceptable vector system
[0225] The cosmetic compositions comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier system. The term "cosmetically acceptable" means a carrier compatible with any keratinous substrate, and for the purposes hereof, includes water and, optionally, water-based solvents, subject to any exclusions disclosed herein.
[0226] The cosmetic compositions may comprise any constituent normally employed in the intended topical application and administration. These may include, but are not limited to, water, solvents, fatty compounds (i.e., those described by the International Federation of Cosmetic Chemistry Societies, for example, in Cosmetic Raw Material Analysis and Quality, Volume I: Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994)), polyols, pigments, fillers, silicones, surfactants, thickeners, gelling agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof in any proportion. Methods of use
[0227] The present disclosure also relates to methods of using the cosmetic compositions described herein. For example, the cosmetic compositions may be used in a method that comprises applying the cosmetic compositions to human skin. In some cases, the composition is applied to the face. Further, the cosmetic composition may be used in methods of depigmenting and / or bleaching keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising the step of: applying to the keratinous substance the composition according to the compositions described herein. The aforementioned methods are non-therapeutic.
[0228] The present disclosure also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for depigmenting, lightening and / or bleaching keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous substance the composition according to the compositions described herein.
[0229] The cosmetic composition may be applied once a day, twice a day, or more than once or twice a day. In some cases, the composition is applied in the evening before bedtime. In other cases, the compositions are applied in the morning. In still other cases, the composition may be applied immediately after washing the skin. The compositions may be used once, or for a series of days, weeks, or months. For example, the compositions may be used daily for a period of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or more weeks, or months. EXAMPLES
[0230] An implementation of the present disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. The following examples serve to explain certain aspects of the technology without being limited by their nature. Example 1
[0231] Example 1: Synthesis of compound 20
[0232] Compound 20 is synthesized as disclosed in Example 2 of patent EP3 390 363. Example 2 (Inventive compositions)
[0233] The inventive compositions were prepared according to the following general procedure:
[0234] Generally, water-soluble raw materials (less actives) have been added to the main pot and dissolved. Polymers were then added and mixed until well dispersed. The batch was heated to 75 C. In a secondary pot, the compounds, silicones, and emulsifiers / surfactants were mixed and heated to 75 C. The secondary pot was added to the main pot while mixing well. When well emulsified, the batch was cooled to room temperature and actives and fillers were added.
[0235] Table 11
[0236] Inventive compositions Inventive Ex. 1 Inventive Ex. 2 Thiopy-ridinone (THP) compound 0.50 0.50 Natural emulsifier Inulin lauryl carbamate Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate 0.50 C14-22 alcohols (and) C12-20 alkyl glucoside 1.50 Hydrogenated lecithin 0.30 0.30 Cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside 0.50 1.00 Glyceryl stearate Polyglyceryl-4 caprate 1.50 Non-natural emulsifiers PEG-40 stearate Peg-20 methylglucose sesquistearate Poloxamer 338 Fatty compound Fatty compound 6.00 9.00 Charge Charge 0.15 1.15 Polymer Polymer 0.70 0.65 Preservative Preservative 0.80 0.60 Silicon Silicon 2.00 0.00 Polyols Polyols 12.00 9.00 Active agent Active agent 5.25 5.25 Adjuvant Adjuvant 1.76 1.70 Water Water QSQS
[0237] [Table 21
[0238] Comparative compositions Comparative Ex. 1 Comparative Ex. 2 Active Compound Thiopyridinone (THP) Compound 0.50 0.50 Natural Emulsifier Inulin Lauryl Carbamate 4.00 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate C14-22 Alcohols (and) C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside 1.50 Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.30 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside Glyceryl Stearate Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate 1.80 Non-Natural Emulsifiers PEG-40 Stearate Peg-20 Methylglucose Sesquistearate 2.00 Poloxamer 338 0.60 Fatty Compound Fatty Compound 3.00 4.90 Filler Filler 0.40 0.80 Polymer Polymer 1.60 1.90 Conservative Conservative 0.60 0.80 Silicon Silicon 3.00 2.00 Polyols Polyols 4.00 4.00 Active agent Active agent 10.25 5.25 Adjuvant Adjuvant 1.58 3.07 Water Water QSQS Example 3
[0239] The inventive examples and comparative examples were tested for stability. The stability of the inventive and comparative examples was assessed by following the procedure described below.
[0240] 24 hours after treatment, the homogeneity of the formulas was assessed vi ually and sensorially (e.g., no visible phase separation, syneresis, homogeneous texture rather than containing solid pieces). Then, the samples were placed in glass jars and placed in temperature-controlled chambers at 25 °C and 45 °C. After 2 weeks, the aforementioned homogeneity of the samples was checked again. Acceptable results meant that the initial stability was acceptable. Acceptable samples were kept in the chamber for further analysis over time.
[0241] The results are presented in Table 3 below.
[0242] [Table 31
[0243] Stability results with inventive and comparative composition Natural emulsifiers used Non-natural emulsifiers used Result Comments Ex. Comparison 1 Methylglucose sesquistearate Peg-20 Poloxamer 338 Acceptable initial stability1 expected stability with non-natural emulsifiers Ex. Comparison 2 Inulin lauryl carbamate Potassium cetyl phosphate Poor initial stability 2 if natural emulsifiers are mixed with the natural emulsifier, the com- position is not stable, so mixing the two does not mean it is straightforward to work with. Ex. Inventive 1 C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside Inulin Lauryl Carbamate Hydrogenated Lecithin N / A Acceptable Initial Stability Unexpected Results. Composition is stable without unnatural emulsifiers Ex. Inventive 2 Polyglyceryl-3 Methyl Glucose Distearate C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside Hydrogenated Lecithin N / A Acceptable Initial Stability Unexpected Results. Composition is stable without unnatural emulsifiers
[0244] *= means that the emulsion is stable and homogeneous during and shortly after treatment, and is also stable after at least 2 months at 25°C and 45°C.
[0245] 2= can range from a product with an uneven texture to a permanent separation visible post-formulation phases after 2 weeks at 25°C and / or 45°C
[0246] The results demonstrated that it was possible to formulate stable and direct emulsions containing THP, using natural emulsifiers, rather than PEG-containing emulsifiers, which are mainly synthetic emulsifiers. Indeed, THP could be included in a physically stable, high-viscosity emulsion containing more than 15% fatty acids. However, a slightly lower viscosity emulsion would allow many other architectures with very different sensory attributes. Thinner creams, lotions, and serums containing THP could be developed with natural emulsifiers, while remaining stable and sensory.
[0247] Although the disclosure has been described with reference to described embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various modifications may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the disclosure. Furthermore, numerous modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation or subject matter to the teachings of the disclosure without departing from its essential scope. Accordingly, it is intended that the disclosure not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out this disclosure, but that the disclosure include all embodiments falling within the scope of the invention.
[0248] The term "INCI" is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the Personal Care Products Council's International Nomenclature Committee to describe the ingredients of personal care products.
[0249] The term "comprising" is intended to be inclusive or broad and not to exclude any additional element, process, step, or material not listed. The term "consisting of" excludes any element, step, or material other than those specified and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material(s). The term "consisting essentially of" limits the scope to the specified elements, steps, or materials and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and novel feature(s) of the claimed disclosure. All materials and processes described herein that embody the present disclosure may, in other embodiments, be more specifically defined by any of the transitional terms "comprising," "consisting essentially of," and "consisting of."
[0250] The terms "free" and "devoid" indicate that no reliably measurable excluded material is present in the composition, typically 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The term "substantially free" means that, although it is preferred that no excluded material be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the composition of the disclosure, provided that such amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the composition. In particular, "substantially free" means that the excluded material may be present in the composition in an amount of less than about 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0251] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated based on the total composition unless otherwise indicated. In general, unless expressly stated otherwise herein, "weight" or "amount" as used herein with respect to the percentage of an ingredient refers to the amount of raw material comprising the ingredient, the raw material that may be described herein as comprising less than and up to 100% of the ingredient's activity. Therefore, the weight percentage of an active in a composition represents the amount of raw material containing the active that is used, and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active, the final percentage of the active depending on the weight percentage of the active in the raw material.
[0252] The terms "weight percent" and "weight %" may be used interchangeably and mean the percentage by weight, based on the total weight of a composition, article, or material, except as may be specified with respect to, for example, a phase or system that is a component of a composition, article, or material. All ranges and amounts set forth herein are intended to include subranges and amounts using any disclosed point as a boundary. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%," "1% to 5%," "2% to 10%," and so on. All figures, amounts, ranges, etc. are intended to be modified by the term "about," whether or not expressly stated.Similarly, a given range of "about 1% to 10%" is intended to have both its 1% and 10% limits modified by the term "about." Further, it is understood that where an amount of a component is given, it is intended to mean the amount of active ingredient unless expressly stated otherwise.
[0253] Although the numerical ranges and parameters defining the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation observed in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate embodiments of the present disclosure without, however, being limiting in nature.
Claims
1. Claims Oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising: i) at least one compound chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer of formula (!) below or their salts; and their optical isomers, racemates, and / or solvates such as hydrates, alone or as a mixture: H H (H Formulas (I) and (I') in which: -Ri denotes a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; (b) a linear saturated C1-C10 or C3-C10 branched alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from: i) -O-R3 ii) -S-R3; - R2 designates a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; (b) a linear or branched C1-C12 or cyclic C3-C12 saturated hydrocarbon group, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from: i) -O-R3 ii) -S-R3 iii) -C(O)-O-R3 ; iv) a C5-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more CrC8 alkoxy radicals (c) a C5-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more C1-C8 alkoxy radicals -R3 denotes a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a linear C1-C10 or branched C3-C10 saturated alkyl group; ii) at least two natural emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of inulin lauryl carbamate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside, APGs, Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, amino acid-based emulsifier, hydrogenated lecithin, lecithins, sodium lauroyl glutamate, and a mixture thereof; and wherein the oil-in-water cosmetic composition is physically stable.
2. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein compound i) is present from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the at least two or more natural emulsifiers ii) are a mixture of natural emulsifiers having an HLB of about 10 to about 15.
4. A composition according to claim 3, wherein the at least two or more natural emulsifiers ii) have an HLB of about 10 to about 15.
5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the at least two or more natural emulsifiers ii) are present from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the oil-in-water cosmetic composition has a low viscosity.
7. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the pH is from about 4.5 to about 6.
5.
8. A method of treating the skin comprising applying to the skin the cosmetic composition of claim 1.