KERATINOUS FIBER CARE COMPOSITION

Abstract

KERATIN FIBER CARE COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a keratin fiber care composition comprising: (a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratin fibers; (b) at least one sugar alcohol; and (c) at least one amino acid. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: KERATINOUS FIBER CARE COMPOSITION technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of the composition and a cosmetic process with the composition. CONTEXT OF ART

[0002] In the cosmetics field, cosmetic compositions that provide skincare effects are increasingly sought after by users. To achieve these skincare effects, active agents are generally included in the compositions. In cosmetic compositions containing active cosmetic agents for keratinous substances, an oil may be used as a medium in the formulation to ensure good penetration of the active agents into the keratinous substances.

[0003] For example, JP-T-2020-514263 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising from 30% to 89% by weight of at least one polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition, from 10% to 45% by weight of at least one C2-C6 aliphatic monoalcohol relative to the total weight of the composition, and from 0.5% to 50% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one hydrophilic active agent, said composition comprising less than 7% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0004] However, there is a problem whereby cosmetic compositions containing an oil can cause a greasy sensation during application. It is not necessary that the cosmetic benefits obtained from an oil-based composition also be obtained from an aqueous composition. In general, the technology applied in the oil-based composition does not work on the aqueous composition. Therefore, there is a demand for aqueous cosmetic compositions that offer cosmetic benefits such as the strengthening of hair fibers, which is related to hair volume.

[0005] Furthermore, a styling polymer is generally used in cosmetic compositions to provide instant hardening of hair fibers. However, a styling polymer can cause a feeling similar to an unnatural hairstyle for users. Therefore, there is also a demand for cosmetic compositions that offer cosmetic benefits such as hair fiber hardening, which is related to volume. hair, without the use of a traditional styling polymer and without offering the feeling of styling. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide a keratin fiber care composition, which can provide a care effect and an improved sensation.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:

[0008] a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratinous fibers;

[0009] (b) at least one sugar alcohol; and

[0010] (c) at least one amino acid.

[0011] (a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratinous fibers may to be chosen from ingredients derived from water lily plants.

[0012] (a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratinous fibers may be extracts from the roots of water lily plants.

[0013] Nymphaeaceae plants can be selected from a group consisting of Nymphaea plants, such as Nymphaea alba (white water lily), Nymphaea odorata (sweet water lily), Nymphaea gigantea (giant water lily), Nymphaea colorata (blue pygmy water lily), Nymphaea Mexicana (yellow water lily), Nymphaea rubra (Indian red water lily), Nymphaea lotus (Egyptian white water lily), Tropical Water Lily, Nymphaea tetragona (pygmy water lily) and Nymphaea cv. (Water lily); Victorian plants, such as Victoria regia and Victoria cruziana (Santa Claus water lily); Euryale plants, such as Euryale ferox (Water lily); and Nuphar plants, such as Nuphar pumilum var. ozeense, Nuphar japonicum, Nuphar subintegerrimum, Nuphar japonicum f. rubrotinctum and Nuphar lutea ssp. polysepala (Roche water table) and their mixtures.

[0014] The (b) at least one sugar alcohol may comprise at least two types of sugar alcohols.

[0015] The (b) at least one sugar alcohol may comprise at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol and at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol in combination.

[0016] (b) at least one sugar alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol and xylitol.

[0017] The (c) amino acid may include basic amino acids.

[0018] The (c) amino acid may be arginine.

[0019] (a) At least one plant extract for hardening keratin fibers may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.001% to 0.05% by weight, or in par- particular of 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] (b) at least one sugar alcohol may be present in the composition in an amount from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 12% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution.

[0021] The (c) amino acid may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] The composition may be in a non-emulsion format, such as a solution, in particular an aqueous solution, and a serum.

[0023] The composition may include an oil in an amount from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or revitalization of a keratinous fiber, comprising the application to the keratinous fiber of the composition according to the present invention. Brief description of the drawings

[0025] [Fig-1] Fig. 1 shows a schematic view of how to determine the bending angles. Best embodiment of the invention

[0026] After careful research, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that a combination of at least one plant extract for hardening keratinous fibers, at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid can offer keratinous fibers cosmetic benefits, such as resistance effects and an improved sensation after application to the keratinous fibers.

[0027] Thus, the keratin fiber care composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0028] a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratinous fibers;

[0029] (b) at least one sugar alcohol; and

[0030] (c) at least one amino acid.

[0031] The composition and cosmetic process according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0032] [Composition]

[0033] The keratin fiber care composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratin fibers; (b) at least one sugar alcohol; and (c) at least one amino acid.

[0034] The composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition. In a In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application, in particular to keratinous fibers.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, "keratinous fibers" means eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

[0036] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition is intended for hair care.

[0037] The compositions according to the present invention can be used as compositions for the revitalization and / or care of keratinous fiber such as hair.

[0038] The composition according to the present invention can take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, and the like. In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is in a non-emulsion form, such as a solution, particularly an aqueous solution, and a serum.

[0039] The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended for use as a leave-on (or rinse-off) cosmetic composition. The term "leave-on" refers to a composition that is not intended to be washed off / rinsed or removed immediately after application. A leave-on composition differs from a rinse-off composition, which is intended to be rinsed off after use on keratin fibers.

[0040] The ingredients included in the composition will be described in detail below.

[0041] (Plant extract)

[0042] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratinous fibers. Two or more types of plant extracts may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of plant extract or a combination of different types of plant extracts may be used.

[0043] The plant extract of the present invention is an active ingredient for keratin fibers, particularly hair, for hardening the keratin fiber. Therefore, the plant extract has a keratin fiber hardening function.

[0044] Preferably, the plant extract of the present invention is also an active ingredient for reducing oiliness and / or improving the smooth texture of keratin fibers, particularly hair. Therefore, the plant extract can serve to provide keratin fibers with less oiliness and a smoother texture.

[0045] The plant extract of the present invention may preferably be chosen from ingredients derived from water lily plants.

[0046] The term "ingredient derived from water lilies" means any substance derived from water lilies. The ingredient derived from water lilies may include the water lily plants, tissues, extracts, juice or slurry thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0047] In some embodiments, the ingredient derived from water lily plants may be chosen from natural products and commercially available products comprising water lily plants, tissues, extracts, juice or slurry thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Nymphaeaceae plants may be selected from Nymphaea plants, such as Nymphaea alba (white water lily), Nymphaea odorata (sweet water lily), Nymphaea gigantea (giant water lily), Nymphaea colorata (blue pygmy water lily), Nymphaea Mexicana (yellow water lily), Nymphaea rubra (Indian red water lily), Nymphaea lotus (Egyptian white water lily), Nymphaea tetragona (pygmy water lily) and Nymphaea cv. (pygmy water lily); Victoria plants, such as Victoria regia and Victoria cruziana (St. Croix water lily); Euryale plants, such as Euryale ferox (spiny water lily); and Nuphar plants, such as Nuphar pumilum var. ozeense, Nuphar japonicum, Nuphar subintegerrimum, Nuphar japonicum f. ru-brotinctum and Nuphar lutea ssp. polysepala (water lily with many sepals).

[0049] In some embodiments, the Nymphaeaceae plants may be selected from among the Nymphaea plants. In one specific embodiment, the Nymphaeaceae plants may be selected from Nymphaea alba.

[0050] Nymphaeaceae plants may be whole or partial, such as a whole plant, an aerial part thereof, a root, flower bulbs, seeds, shoots, a seed, leaves, flowers or a combination thereof.

[0051] Extracts, juices or slurries may be derived from all or part of a plant, such as a whole plant, an aerial part thereof, a root, flower bulbs, seeds, shoots, a seed, leaves, flowers or a combination thereof.

[0052] The extracts may be a solvent extract, preferably an aqueous extract, an alcoholic extract or a hydroalcoholic extract such as a water-propylene glycol extract.

[0053] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ingredient derived from water lilies is a root extract of water lilies. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ingredient derived from water lilies is a root extract of Nymphaea alba. In some embodiments, the ingredient derived from water lilies may advantageously be Nymphaea alba root extract, sold in particular under the name WATER LILY PRO by LIPOID KOSMETIK.

[0054] The amount of (a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratinous fibers in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.0001% in weight or more, preferably 0.0005% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.001% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] The quantity of (a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratinous fibers in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.05% by weight or less, or in particular 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] The quantity of (a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratinous fibers in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.001% to 0.05% by weight, or in particular from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] (Sugar alcohol)

[0058] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one sugar alcohol. Two or more types of sugar alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty alcohol, or a combination of different types of sugar alcohols, may be used.

[0059] Sugar alcohol is a compound obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide.

[0060] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be selected from a sugar alcohol and a mixture thereof, which are reduced from a saccharide, a derivative thereof, and a mixture thereof. The saccharide, its derivative, and its mixture may be unsubstituted or substituted by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0061] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides, or a mixture thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from monosaccharides and / or disaccharides.

[0062] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a monosaccharide selected from, for example, a pentose such as ribulose, xylose, ribose, arabinose, lyxose, and deoxyribose; a hexose such as allulose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, fucose, fuculose, and rhamnose; or a heptose such as sedoheptulose. In this context, a sugar alcohol derived from a monosaccharide is also called a monosaccharide sugar alcohol.

[0063] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from disaccharides such as sucrose, lactose, maltose, and trehalose. In this context, the alcohol Disaccharide-derived sugar is also called disaccharide sugar alcohol.

[0064] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol can be derived from trisac-charides such as maltotriose, cellotriose, 2'-fucosyllactose, gentianose, raffinose and me-licitose.

[0065] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and mixture thereof, preferably the group consisting of erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, and mixture thereof, more preferably the group consisting of maltitol, sorbitol, and mixture thereof, wherein at least one hydrogen in their hydroxyl groups may have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

[0066] The saccharides can take the form of L or D isomers.

[0067] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) sugar alcohol comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol.

[0068] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) sugar alcohol comprises at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least two types of sugar alcohols.

[0070] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the sugar alcohol (b) comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol, such as erythritol, mannitol, arabitol and sorbitol, and at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol, such as maltitol and lactitol in combination.

[0071] In yet another preferred embodiment of the present invention, (b) at least one sugar alcohol comprises at least two types of sugar alcohols, preferably selected from erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol and xylitol, more preferably selected from erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol and sorbitol, even more preferably selected from maltitol and sorbitol.

[0072] The amount of (b) at least one sugar alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Furthermore, the quantity of (b) at least one sugar alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 12% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, even more preferably 8% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] The amount of (b) at least one sugar alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 12% by weight. weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] (Amino acid)

[0076] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one amino acid. Two or more types of amino acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of amino acid or a combination of different types of amino acids may be used. The amino acid may include an analog, solvated form, hydrate, stereoisomer, or salt thereof.

[0077] The amino acid has at least one amino group and at least one carboxyl group. The amino group may be a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, or a tertiary amino group.

[0078] The amino acid can be of D or L form.

[0079] The amino acid may be chosen from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids, neutral amino acids, and mixtures thereof. Acidic amino acids generally have one amino group and two carboxyl groups. Examples of acidic amino acids include glutamic acid and aspartic acid. Basic amino acids generally have two amino groups and one carboxyl group. Examples of basic amino acids include arginine, lysine, histidine, and ornithine. The number of amino groups and the number of carboxyl groups in neutral amino acids are identical. Examples of neutral amino acids include glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, asparagine, glutamine, proline, phenylalanine, tyrosine, and tryptophan. In particular, of preferred embodiments, (c) at least one amino acid may be arginine.

[0080] The amino acid may be selected from α-amino acids, β-amino acids, γ-amino acids, and β-amino acids. The α-amino acid may be selected from non-cyclic and cyclic α-amino acids. The non-cyclic α-amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. The cyclic α-amino acid may be selected from non-aromatic cyclic α-amino acids such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyrroglutamic acid or pidolic acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid can be formed by intramolecular condensation with the amino group and the carboxyl group of glutamic acid.

[0081] In some embodiments, (c) at least one amino acid may be selected from amino acid derivatives. Amino acid derivatives (amino acid derivatives) may be selected from amino acids in which the atom hydrogen on the nitrogen atom of the amino group in amino acids is substituted by at least one substituent.

[0082] As a substituent, one can mention, for example, an alkyl group, an acyl group, an alkenyl group, an alkoxyl group and an alkoxycarbonyl group.

[0083] The alkyl group may be linear, branched, or cyclic. The alkyl group may be a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an i-propyl group, or a butyl group. Alternatively, the alkyl group may be a cyclic C3-C6 alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl group or a cyclohexyl group.

[0084] The acetyl group can be a Cr C6 acetyl group such as a formyl group and an acetyl group.

[0085] The alkenyl group may be a C2-C6 alkenyl group such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group and a hexenyl group.

[0086] The alkoxy group can be a Ci-C6 alkoxy group such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group and a propoxy group.

[0087] The alkoxycarbonyl group can be a Ci-C6 alkoxycarbonyl group such as a methoxycarbonyl group, an ethoxycarbonyl group and a propoxycarbonyl group.

[0088] The above substituent can be further substituted by at least one group such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group and an aromatic group such as a phenyl group.

[0089] In one embodiment, (c) at least one amino acid may be selected from amino acid salts or amino acid derivative salts.

[0090] The type of amino acid salts or amino acid derivative salts is not limited. The salts may be acidic or basic. Examples of acidic salts include, for instance, salts of inorganic acids such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, nitrates, and phosphates, and salts of organic acids such as citrates, oxalates, acetates, formates, maleates, and tartrates. Examples of basic salts include, for instance, salts of inorganic bases such as sodium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, copper salt, zinc salt, aluminum salt, and ammonium salts, and salts of organic bases such as triethylammonium salts, triethanolammonium salts, pyridinium salts, and diisopropylammonium salts.

[0091] The amount of (c) at least one amino acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] The quantity of (c) at least one amino acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] The quantity of (c) at least one amino acid in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] (Water)

[0095] The composition according to the present invention preferably includes water. The quantity of water may depend on the quantity of the other ingredients.

[0096] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention can be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, more preferably 50% by weight or more, even more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] Furthermore, the quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 95% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 90% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 85% by weight, or even more preferably less than or equal to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 45% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 60% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] (Other ingredients)

[0100] - Cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent

[0101] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent. If two or more of these solvents are used, they may be identical or different.

[0102] Cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) may include, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, sorbitol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol ethers, such as monomethyl propylene glycol ether, alkyl diethylene glycol ethers, such as monoethyl ether or monobutyl diethylene glycol ether; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6 and PEG-8, and their derivatives.

[0103] The quantity of cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] In one embodiment of the present invention, the quantity of monoalcohol(s) comprising 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the composition according to the present invention may be between 5% and 40% by weight, preferably between 10% and 35% by weight, and more preferably between 15% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] In one embodiment of the present invention, the quantity of polyols or polyol ether(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] - Powdered active agent

[0107] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one powdered active agent. Two or more powdered active agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of powdered active agent or a combination of different types of powdered active agents may be used.

[0108] The term "powder" used here should be understood as particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, in particular water.

[0109] The powdered active agent(s) may be of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, regardless of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).

[0110] The average particle size of the powdered active agent(s) is not limited, but is generally 50 µm or less, preferably 20 µm or less, and more preferably 10 µm or less. The average particle size of the powdered active agent(s) may be 0.01 µm or more, and preferably 0.1 µm or more. The term "average particle size" used herein represents a number-average diameter given by the statistical particle size distribution to half the population, denoted by D50. For example, the number-average diameter can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as the Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.

[0111] The powdered active agent(s) may be chosen from cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents, such as anti-aging active agents and active agents with anti-free radical properties or free radical scavengers.

[0112] The powdered active agent(s) may be lipophilic active agents.

[0113] The term “lipophilic” here indicates substances soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils to be tem- ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0114] The powdered active agent(s) may be water-insoluble active agents.

[0115] The expression "insoluble in water" here indicates materials that are soluble in water at a concentration of less than 0.1% by weight, in particular less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0116] In particular, the powdered active agent(s) of the present invention may be lipophilic and / or water-insoluble cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents for the skin and / or scalp, in particular lipophilic and water-insoluble active agents for the skin and / or scalp selected from anti-aging active agents and active agents with anti-free radical properties or free radical scavengers.

[0117] In a preferred embodiment, the powdered active agent(s) of the present invention are powdered active agents of an organic compound.

[0118] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the organic compound forming the powdered active agent(s) be 150 or more, preferably 300 or more, and more preferably 450 or more; and / or may be 3,000 or less, preferably 2,000 or less and more preferably 1,000 or less.

[0119] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the organic compound forming the powdered active agent(s) vary from 150 to 3,000, preferably from 300 to 2,000 and, more preferably, from 450 to 1,000.

[0120] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means number-average molecular weight.

[0121] As regards powdered active agents, retinols (vitamin A) and derivatives such as retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes including beta-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, vitamins D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, ceramides, organic acid esters and unsaponifiable matter having cosmetic and / or dermatological properties such as tocotrienol, sesamin, phytosterols, squalene, waxes and terpenes may be used.

[0122] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the powdered active agent is an ester of an organic acid, in particular those represented by a formula (I), or a geometric isomer thereof, an organic or mineral acid or a basic salt thereof, or a solvate thereof, in particular hydrates: O

[0123] formula (I) in which:

[0124] R1, R4 and R5 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;

[0125] R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, preferably an (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy;

[0126] R3 represents a hydroxyl group or an (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; and

[0127] R6 represents a group chosen from:

[0128] i) (Ci-C6)alkyl, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl,

[0129] ii) cycloalkyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from (Ci-Cio)alkyl, (C2-CiO)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, and

[0130] iii) glycosylated.

[0131] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the ester of formula (I) has the formula (I1) below:

[0132] formula (I1) in which:

[0133] R6 is as defined above; and

[0134] R7 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6 alkyl group.

[0135] As particular examples of esters of formula (I) or (!'), methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, chlorogenic acid, isopropyl ferulate or the Ferulic acid esters of sterols, such as oryzanol, in particular gamma-oryzanol. According to another embodiment, oryzanol, and in particular gamma-oryzanol, is especially preferred.

[0136] The powdered active ingredient(s) may be present at a concentration of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The powdered active ingredient(s) may be present at a concentration of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] The powdered active agent(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] -Thickener

[0139] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one thickener. Only one type of thickener may be used, but two or more different types of thickener may be used in combination.

[0140] It is preferable to choose the thickener from among hydrophilic thickeners. The term "hydrophilic" here refers to substances that are soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0141] It is preferable to choose the thickener from among the polysaccharides.

[0142] Polysaccharides are, for example, selected from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, e.g. wheat, maize or rice, vegetables, e.g. yellow peas, and tubers, e.g. potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextran, celluloses and their derivatives (e.g., methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitins, chitosan, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids, and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, carob gum, galactomannans, such as guar gum, and their non-ionic derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), sclerotium gum and xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. .

[0143] For example, the polysaccharides that can be used are chosen from those described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896-900, and Volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature" by E.A. MacGregor and C.T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and in "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academie Press Inc., the contents of these three publications being fully incorporated in reference.

[0144] For example, starches, guar gums, celluloses and their derivatives can be used.

[0145] Among the starches that can be used, one can cite, for example, macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising basic units that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their arrangement allow one to distinguish amylose (a linear polymer) from amylopectin (a branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

[0146] The starch molecules used may have as their botanical origin cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches may be chosen, for example, from corn, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches.

[0147] Starches generally exist in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, with an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

[0148] Starches may optionally be hydroxyalkylated at Ci-C6 or alkylated at Ci-C6 (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

[0149] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, such as the product supplied under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (hydroxypropyl gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (acetylated cassava phosphate) by the company AVEBE, may also be used.

[0150] Guar gums may or may not be modified.

[0151] Unmodified guar gums include, for example, products marketed under the name Vidogum GH 175 by Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by Meyhall.

[0152] Modified non-ionic guar gums are, for example, modified with Cr C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0153] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned, for example, are the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0154] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0155] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0156] These non-ionic guar gums possibly modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are marketed, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon.

[0157] Among the celluloses and cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose modified with hydroxylalkyl groups, which are used, for example, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, as well as hydrophobic hydroxypropylmethylcellulose. Reference may be made to the products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF, and Klucel G by the company Aqualon.

[0158] The quantity of the thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] -Non-ionic surfactant

[0160] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. Only one type of nonionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0161] The nonionic surfactant may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.0, and more preferably 4.0 to 5.0. Alternatively, the nonionic surfactant may have an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably 12 to 16, and more preferably 13 to 15. If two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the nonionic surfactants.

[0162] The non-ionic surfactant may be selected from:

[0163] (1) surfactants selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, alkyl polyoxyalkylated glycerides and polyoxyalkylated fatty ethers;

[0164] (2) mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol;

[0165] (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars;

[0166] (4) surfactants selected from sorbitan fatty esters and oxy- fatty esters alkylated sorbitan, and oxyalkylated fatty esters;

[0167] (5) sequenced copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B),

[0168] (6) alkyl (Ci6-C3O) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO),

[0169] (7) silicone surfactants, and

[0170] (8) mixtures of these.

[0171] The surfactant (1) may be a fluid at a temperature less than or equal to 45 °C.

[0172] The surfactant (1) may in particular be:

[0173] - polyglyceryl fatty acid esters of at least one, preferably one, fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C22 hydrocarbon group, such as a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C8-C18 alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably a C8-C12 alkyl or alkenyl group, and 2-12 glycerols, preferably 2-10 glycerols and more preferably 2-8 glycerols;

[0174] - polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides (PEGyls) such as polyethylene derivatives glycol of a mixture of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic and capric acids (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, and even more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs), for example, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-7 caprylic / capric glycerides and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate;

[0175] - polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers of at least one fatty alcohol, preferably one, comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C22 hydrocarbon group, such as a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C8-C18 alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably a C8-C12 alkyl or alkenyl group, and 2 to 60 ethylene oxides, preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxides, and more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxides; and

[0176] - their mixtures.

[0177] It is preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester have a polyglycerol fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 2 to 8 glycerols, and more preferably still from 4 to 6 glycerols.

[0178] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from mono, di and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably of saturated acid, including 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid.

[0179] Polyoxyalkylated fatty ethers, preferably polyoxyethylated fatty ethers, may comprise from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the ethers may be selected in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers include lauryl alcohol ethers comprising 2, 3, 4, and 5 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4 and Laureth-5), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BL-2 by Nikko Chemicals, Emalex 703 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Nikkol BL-4 by Nikko Chemicals and EMALEX 705 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd. Examples also include stearyl alcohol ethers comprising 2, 3, 4, 5 and 20 ethylene oxide motifs (CTFA names: Steareth-2, Steareth-3, Steareth-4, Steareth-5 and Steareth-20), such as products sold under the names Emalex 602 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Emalex 603 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Nikkol BS-4 by Nikko Chemicals, and Emalex 605 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd.

[0180] It is also preferable that the polyoxyalkylated fatty ethers be polyethylene glycol ethers of C8-C24 alcohols or fatty alcohols and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives and polypropylene glycol ethers of C4-C24 alcohols or fatty alcohols such as PPG-14 butyl ether and PPG-15 stearyl ether.

[0181] The (2) mixed esters of fatty acids, or fatty alcohols, carboxylic acid, and glycerol, usable as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactant, may be selected in particular from the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols with an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and α-hydroxy acid and / or succinic acid, with glycerol. The α-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] The alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which the mixed esters usable in the nanoemulsion of the present invention are derived may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. These may include, in particular, stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyle, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures thereof.

[0183] By way of examples of mixed esters usable in the nanoemulsion of the present invention, we may mention the mixed ester of glycerol and the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: Glyceryl citrate / lactate / linoleate / oleate) sold by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (name CTFA: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by the company Danisco under the name Lactodan B 30 or Rylo LA30.

[0184] The (3) fatty acid esters of sugars, usable as a non-ionic surfactant ci- above, may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of C8-C22 fatty acids and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C14-C22 fatty acids and methylglucose.

[0185] The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty acids forming the fatty acid motif of the esters usable in the present invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty acid motif of the esters may be selected in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.

[0186] The (3) fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, usable as the above nonionic surfactant, may be solid at a temperature of 45°C or lower and may be selected in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of C8-C22 fatty alcohols and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C14-C22 fatty alcohol and methylglucose. These include, in particular, alkyl polyglucosides.

[0187] The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty acid motif of the ethers that can be used in the nanoemulsion of the present invention comprise a linear alkyl or alkenyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty acid motif of the ethers can be selected in particular from the following motifs: decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyle, lauryl, capryl, hexadecanoyl, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.

[0188] The (4) sorbitan fatty acid esters and the oxyalkylated sorbitan fatty acid esters that can be used as the above nonionic surfactant may be selected from the group comprising the Ci6-C22 sorbitan fatty acid esters and the Ci6-C22-Us oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters may be formed from at least one fatty acid having at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The oxyethylenated esters may generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

[0189] These esters may be selected in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.

[0190] The (4) oxyalkylated fatty esters, preferably ethoxylated fatty esters, usable as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactant, may be esters formed of 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and of at least one fatty acid chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms. The fatty chain in The esters can be chosen in particular from the stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate motifs, and mixtures thereof. Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters include stearic acid ester comprising 40 ethylene oxide motifs, such as the product marketed under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by ICI, and behenic acid ester comprising 8 ethylene oxide motifs (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product marketed under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by Gattefosse.

[0191] The (5) sequenced copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B), usable as the above nonionic surfactant, may be selected in particular from the sequenced copolymers of formula (I):

[0192] HO(C2H4O)x(C3H6O)y(C2H4O)zH (I)

[0193] in which x, y and z are integers such that x+z ranges from 2 to 100 and y ranges from 14 to 60, and their mixtures, and more particularly among the sequenced copolymers of formula (I) having an HLB value ranging from 8.0 to 14.0.

[0194] The (6)alkyl (Ci6-C3O) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ethers, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, can be selected from the group consisting of:

[0195] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30; Polyoxyethylene (30) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4630 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0196] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12; Polyoxyethylene (12) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4612 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0197] PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24; Polyoxyethylene (24) Polyoxypropylene (13) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold as UNILUBE 50MT-2200B from NOF Corporation,

[0198] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (6) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4620 by Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0199] PPG-4 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold by Nikkol PBC-31 of Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0200] PPG-8 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-41 by Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0201] PPG-4 Ceteth-10; Polyoxyethylene (10) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-33 by Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0202] PPG-4 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-34 by Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0203] PPG-5 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (5) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Procetyl AWS by Croda Inc,

[0204] PPG-8 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-44 by Nikko Chemicals Co. and

[0205] PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylene Polyoxypropylene Stearyl Ether (34 EO) (23 PO) such as those sold under the name Unisafe 34S-23 by Pola Chemical Industries. They can provide a composition with long-term stability, even if the temperature of the composition is raised and lowered in a relatively short period.

[0206] As (7) silicone surfactants, which can be used like the nonionic surfactant above, mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.

[0207] The (7) silicone surfactant as a nonionic surfactant above may preferably be a compound of formula (I):

[0208] in which:

[0209] Ri, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent an alkyl radical in i.c6 or a radical -(CH2)X_(0CH2cu2)y -(OCh2ch2ch2)Z_qr4, at least one radical R1, r2 or r3 not being an alkyl radical; r4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;

[0210] A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

[0211] B is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not simultaneous tanément equal to zero;

[0212] x is an integer from 1 to 6;

[0213] y is an integer between 1 and 30;

[0214] z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

[0215] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer from 2 to 6 and y is an integer from 4 to 30.

[0216] Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include compounds of formula (II): (CH3)3SiO - I(CH3)2SiO]A - (CH3SiO)B - Si(CH3)3 I (II) (CH2)2-(OCH2CH2)y-OH

[0217] in which A is an integer from 20 to 105, B is an integer from 2 to 10 and y is an integer from 10 to 20.

[0218] Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) may also be cited compounds of formula (III):

[0219] H-(OCH2CH2)y-(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO]A-(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2)y-OH(ni)

[0220] in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

[0221] The non-ionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 7% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] -Additives

[0223] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more of the adjuvants that are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; penetrating agents; pH adjusters such as sodium hydroxide; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers such as hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; emollients; hydrophilic agents; free-flocculating agents; sequestering agents such as gluconolactone; suspending agents; a buffer; perfumes; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and / or pigments; film-forming agents; preservatives; co-preservative agents; opacifying agents;Agents that can cause a cooling sensation, such as menthol; and mixtures thereof.

[0224] Examples of hydrophilic active ingredients include vitamin B3 and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and its derivatives, α-hydroxy acids, niacinamide and their mixtures.

[0225] The composition according to the present invention may further include plant extracts, such as ginger root extract.

[0226] The quantity of additives included in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be between 0.01% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

[0227] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition.

[0228] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is oil-free or comprises a minute amount of oils. In some embodiments, oils may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably of 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is oil-free (i.e., 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0229] The term "oil" here means a compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0230] The oils may include volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, particularly of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. The oil may be selected from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof.

[0231] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oil does not contain any silicon atoms.

[0232] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular, at least one Si-O group, such as dimethicone.

[0233] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise any styling polymer.

[0234] The styling polymer may be selected from crosslinked polyacrylate polymers or crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic acrylic or carboxylic acid polymers, poly-acrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, gums, polyquaterniums, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers / copolymers, a C8.24 hydroxyl-substituted aliphatic acid, a C8 24 conjugated aliphatic acid, sugar fatty esters, polyglyceryl esters, and a mixture thereof.

[0235] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can generally be, for example, from 2 to 7, preferably from 3 to 7, and more preferably from 4 to 6.

[0236] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above according to any of the processes which are well known to the person skilled in the art.

[0237] [Cosmetic process and use]

[0238] The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or revitalization of ization of a keratinous fiber, comprising the application to the keratinous fiber of the composition according to the present invention.

[0239] By cosmetic process, we mean here a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or revitalization of a keratinous fiber.

[0240] The application step can be carried out by any conventional means such as an applicator, for example the hands, a sprayer, and a brush. The application step can be a topical application step.

[0241] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on cosmetic composition. Therefore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not include a step of rinsing or washing away the applied composition from the keratin fiber after the application step. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic process of the present invention does not include a step of rinsing or washing away the applied composition within one hour, preferably within two hours, more preferably within four hours, and even more preferably within eight hours after the application step.

[0242] In addition, the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in the field of cosmetics, in particular the care and / or revitalization of keratinous fibers.

[0243] The same explanation regarding the composition, (a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratin fibers; (b) at least one sugar alcohol; and (c) at least one amino acid in the composition of the invention, can be applied to those for the process and use according to the present invention. The composition used in the process and use according to the present invention may include any of the optional ingredients explained above for the composition according to the present invention.

[0244] EXAMPLES

[0245] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0246] [Compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2]

[0247] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 was prepared by mixing ingredients listed in Table 1 below. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" of each ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition. "Maltitol (and) Sorbitol" was obtained from KANKOHSHA, sold under the name "Amalty Syrup".

[0248] [Preparation Protocol]

[0249] The compositions of the Examples were prepared according to a process comprising the Next steps:

[0250] (1) Add soluble ingredients, such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, an extract of nymphaea alba, propylene glycol, arginine, sugar alcohols and polyols, where appropriate, to deionized water;

[0251] (2) Shake the mixture from step (1) until all the ingredients are completely dissolved at room temperature;

[0252] (3) Add the oily ingredients, such as oryzanol and ginger extract in the mixture from step (2), and pre-correct the pH to a slightly acidic level (about 6);

[0253] (4) Shake the mixture from step (3) until all the ingredients are completely dissolved; and

[0254] (5) Add sodium hyaluronate, ethanol, sclerotium gum, gum xanthan gum, menthol and correct the final pH to 5.3.

[0255] [Table 1] Composition of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 Ingredients Comp Ex. 1 Comp Ex. 2 Ex. 1 comp. 2 comp. 3 Maltitol (and) sorbitol - - 5 1.5 0.4 Arginine - 0.11 0.3 0.11 0.11 Nymphaea Alba Root Extract 0.003 0.003 0.003 0.003 0.003 Oryzanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sclerotium Gum 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Xanthan Gum 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Ethanol 20 20 20 20 20 Propylene glycol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Gluconolactone 2 2 2 2 2 Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate 2 2 2 2 2 Ginger root extract 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Menthol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Sodium hyaluronate 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 Sodium hydroxide Adjust to pH 5.3 Adjust to pH 5.3 Adjust to pH 5.3 Adjust to pH 5.3 Adjust to pH 5.3 Deionized water Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs for for 100 for 100 for 100 for 100 100

[0256] [Evaluation]

[0257] (Resistance Analysis)

[0258] The resistance analysis was carried out by a bend angle test of each strand of hair, with a reference strand without application of any composition.

[0259] A strand of hair (1 g, 27 cm) was prepared for each experiment. Each strand of hair was washed with any shampoo shown in Table 2 before application. After shampooing, the strand of hair was rinsed with water and then towel-dried. 0.20 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 were applied to each strand of hair and left in an environment of 24°C / 40% RH for 5 minutes.

[0260] For measuring the bending angle, the following measuring equipment was used:

[0261] - Hair support plate with clip for securing the hair strand

[0262] - Trestle for adjusting the position of hair strands

[0263] - Double-sided adhesive tape for attaching the support plate to the trestle

[0264] -Digital camera

[0265] - Image analysis software.

[0266] The root of the hair strand was fixed to a plate. The end of the braid was held and oriented upwards, then released so that the end of the braid could point downwards. This allowed the hair strand to bend naturally under the influence of gravity. The angle between the plate and the root of the hair strand (braid) ([Fig. 1]) was measured using image analysis software to extrapolate the strength / firmness of the hair.

[0267] The results are shown in Table 3 below. The bending angle of the hair strand itself was 71°. The greater the bending angle, the greater the resistance of the hair strand. It should be noted that a bending angle of 70° or more may be a threshold to consider when assessing resistance.

[0268] (Sensory assessments)

[0269] A strand of hair (1 g, 27 cm) was prepared for each experiment. Each strand of hair was washed with any shampoo shown in Table 2 before application. After shampooing, the strand of hair was rinsed with water and then towel-dried. 0.20 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 were applied to each strand of hair and left for 5 minutes, then blow-dried. The strands were then

[0270]

[0271]

[0272]

[0273]

[0274]

[0275]

[0276] evaluated by five professional panelists for hair strength, natural feel (non-artificial hairstyle feel) and smooth texture. Hardness, natural feel, and smooth texture were evaluated according to the following criteria (1 to 5). The reference refers to the evaluation result of the hair strand to which comparative example 1 was applied, i.e., the application of the composition that does not include the sugar alcohol(s) or the amino acid(s). 5: Much better than the benchmark 4: Better than the benchmark 3: Parity with the reference 2: Less than the reference 1: Well below the reference The scores thus obtained were averaged. The results are shown in Table 4 below. [Table 2] Composition of any shampoo.

[0277] Ingredients % by weight Hexylene glycol 1 Sodium chloride 1 Coco-betaine 9 Sodium laureth sulfate 15 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 Sodium benzoate 0.5 Salicylic acid 0.2 Citric acid qs to pH 5.3 Sodium hydroxide qs to pH 5.3 Deionized water qs per 100

[0278]

[0279]

[0280] [Results] (Resistance analysis) [Table 3] Results of the resistance analysis Strength analysis / Bending angle (°) Reference (not applicable) 71 Ex. comp. 1 65 Ex. comp. 2 63 Ex. 1 70 Ex. 2 74 Ex. 3 76

[0281] As can be seen from the results shown in Table 3, it was found that the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, each comprising at least one plant extract for hardening keratinous fibers, at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid, could offer superior strength to the hair.

[0282] On the other hand, compositions according to comparative examples 1 to 2 which do not include at least one sugar alcohol did not show an increase in hair strength.

[0283] It can therefore be said that the addition of sugar alcohol(s) can provide volumizing benefits as well as better integrity to keratinous fibers.

[0284] (Sensory assessments)

[0285] [Table 4] Results of sensory evaluations Hardness Natural feel Smooth texture Reference (no application) 2 2 2 Ex. comp. 2 3 3 3 Ex. 1 4.0 3.8 3.8 Ex. 2 4.5 3.9 4.0 Ex. 3 4.7 4.0 4.0

[0286] Comparative Example 1 was used as a reference in Table 4.

[0287] As can be seen from the results shown in Table 4, it was interesting to note that the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 which include at least one plant extract for hardening keratinous fibers, at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid were able to increase fiber hardness.

[0288] The feeling of fiber stiffness is sometimes considered similar to the feeling of a styling product, which is unnatural and can give users a negative impression. However, the addition of at least one plant extract to stiffen keratin fibers, at least one sugar alcohol, and at least one amino acid, particularly arginine, could decrease the feeling of the styling product and improve the natural feel, as well as increase the smooth texture, while maintaining or further increasing fiber stiffness.

[0289] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 2, which does not include at least one sugar alcohol, did not show an increase in fiber hardness compared to the composition according to Comparative Example 1. Furthermore, the composition according to Comparative Example 2 showed no change in its feel compared to the composition according to Comparative Example 1.

[0290] It should be noted that the composition, which includes at least one plant extract for hardening keratin fibers, at least one sugar alcohol, and at least one amino acid, could increase the strength and hardness of the hair strand without a styling polymer. The increase in hair strength and / or hardness indicates that the addition of at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid can give the hair increased volume.

[0291] It was also found that compositions comprising at least one plant extract for hardening keratin fibers, at least one sugar alcohol, and at least one amino acid, in particular arginine, improved the natural feel and increased the smooth texture. The improved natural feel and smooth texture indicate that the addition of at least one sugar alcohol and at least one amino acid can provide cosmetic benefits such that the increase in hair strength and / or hardness achieved by the composition does not appear unrealistic or artificial.

[0292] Thus, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention can offer a volumizing benefit without styling polymers, as well as improved acceptability as a cosmetic product with a natural feel and enhanced smooth texture, particularly for a topical cosmetic composition for hair. Furthermore, it is assumed that since the composition according to the present invention is aqueous, the composition offers a less greasy feel than an oil-based composition.

[0293] Consequently, it can be concluded that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is highly preferable as a topical cosmetic composition for the care and / or revitalization of keratinous fiber, in particular hair.

Claims

Demands

1. Keratin fiber care composition comprising: (a) at least one plant extract for hardening keratin fibers which is a root extract of water lily plants; (b) at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol and at least one disaccharide sugar in combination; and (c) at least one amino acid.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the Nymphaeaceae plants are selected from a group consisting of Nymphaea plants, such as Nymphaea alba (white water lily), Nymphaea odorata (sweet water lily), Nymphaea gigantea (giant water lily), Nymphaea colorata (blue pygmy water lily), Nymphaea Mexicana (yellow water lily), Nymphaea rubra (Indian red water lily), Nymphaea lotus (Egyptian white water lily), tropical water lily, Nymphaea tetragona (pygmy water lily) and Nymphaea cv. (pygmy water lily); Victoria plants, such as Victoria regia and Victoria cruziana (St. Croix water lily); Euryale plants, such as Euryale ferox (spiny water lily); and Nuphar plants, such as Nuphar pumilum var. ozeense, Nuphar japonicum, Nuphar subintegerrimum, Nuphar japonicum f. rubrotinctum and Nuphar lutea ssp. polysepala (water lily with many sepals); and their mixtures.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (b) at least one sugar alcohol is selected from the group consisting of erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol and xylitol.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (c) amino acid comprises basic amino acids.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (c) amino acid is arginine.

6. Cosmetic process for the care and / or revitalization of a keratinous fiber, comprising the application to the keratinous fiber of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

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