Solid cosmetic composition comprising anionic surfactants, a cationic gum, a glycerol ester and a polyol, methods and use

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising anionic surfactants of sulfate and sulfonate type, a cationic galactomannan gum, a (poly)glycerol ester and a polyol comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using said composition, its use for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, as well as its preparation process.

Description

Title of the invention: Solid cosmetic composition comprising anionic surfactants, a cationic gum, a glycerol ester and a polyol, methods and use

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition intended in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair, and which comprises at least two anionic surfactants, one of which is of the sulfate type and the other of the sulfonate type, at least one cationic galactomannan gum, at least one (poly)glycerol ester and at least one particular polyol. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair, using said composition, as well as its use for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0002] In the field of hair hygiene, keratin fiber washing products are generally intended to clean said fibers while providing them with good cosmetic properties. Conventional products, such as shampoos, are most often in a more or less thickened liquid form. However, due to their liquid texture, these products can have various drawbacks, and in particular can be difficult to dose.

[0003] Indeed, the more liquid they are, the more they tend to escape between the fingers, making their dosage difficult and leading to waste. These products can also leak out of their packaging, which can cause inconvenience to the consumer when these products come into contact with clothing or objects, for example when moving.

[0004] In order to modify the texture of these products, and in particular to make it more compact, thickeners are generally used. The addition of these compounds, however, is often to the detriment of the cosmetic effects of the compositions. The use of these thicker compositions also requires a lot of rinsing water in order to eliminate the excess product on the fibers. However, in many countries where access to water is restricted, the rinsing time, and consequently the quantity of water necessary to properly rinse the product, are key indicators of the usability of a composition.

[0005] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, thus making it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0007] Furthermore, in order to preserve natural resources and in particular water, it is of interest to propose compositions which make it possible to reduce the quantity of water required, in particular when using the product and / or during its formulation.

[0008] In order to overcome some of the problems associated with liquid formulations, new solid cosmetic formulations, in particular shampoos in the form of solid granules or powders, have been developed. However, these new formulations are not always entirely satisfactory. Those in the form of loose powder can indeed pose problems of volatility, gripping and / or dosage, while those in the form of agglomerates, such as granules for example, can tend to disintegrate or disintegrate with difficulty in the presence of water. Thus, the latter do not always allow rapid foaming and / or satisfactory abundance of foam to be obtained, adversely affecting their use and their spreading on the keratin fibers. They can also be difficult to remove when rinsing and sometimes even leave residues on the fibers that are unpleasant for the consumer.

[0009] Solid compositions in the form of a bar, similar to bars of soap, have also been proposed, generally comprising anionic surfactants and conditioning agents, in particular cationic ones.

[0010] After use, it may happen that these compositions in the form of a bar remain in a humid, or even wet, environment, for example in a soap dish filled with water, at the bottom of the shower tray or on the edge of a bathtub, which can lead to difficulties in drying said bar and therefore delay its hardening, which is preferable for optimal subsequent use; in fact, in the event of storage in water, the bar can "take on water", that is to say absorb part of the water which surrounds it, and will then remain soft and moist; it can then unfortunately disintegrate or break in an undesirable manner, during subsequent use.

[0011] Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition in solid form which is more resistant to storage in a humid and hot environment, typical of that of a bathroom, said composition also having good usage properties and providing keratin fibers with adequate cosmetic properties.

[0012] It has thus been discovered that a solid composition as defined in the claims makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above, and in particular to to propose a composition in solid form combining good detergent power with improved foam properties, without requiring large quantities of water, and providing good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of flexibility, feel, smoothing, softness, shine and detangling, said composition being particularly suitable for storage in a humid environment.

[0013] Advantageously, this composition has an improved environmental profile, i.e. requiring little water throughout its use.

[0014] It advantageously has good foaming properties, particularly in terms of foam start-up, abundance, texture and density, but it is also quick to rinse while leaving as little residue as possible on the keratin fibers. Furthermore, it is pleasant to use without being sticky or disintegrating unexpectedly.

[0015] The subject of the invention is a solid cosmetic composition comprising:

[0016] - one or more anionic surfactants of sulfate type;

[0017] - one or more anionic surfactants of sulfonate type;

[0018] - one or more cationic galactomannan gums,

[0019] - one or more esters of (poly)glycerol and

[0020] - one or more polyols comprising at least 4 carbon atoms, in a content total of at least 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The invention also relates to a process for preparing a solid cosmetic composition as defined above, said process comprising a step of molding said composition.

[0022] The particular combination of the compounds of the invention makes it possible to obtain a compact solid composition that is easy to handle and dose. The composition can then advantageously be presented in the form of a loaf or stick, a particularly interesting form, for example, when traveling or practicing a sport (lighter bags, limiting the risk of leaks, reducing waste).

[0023] The composition is also more resistant to storage in a humid and hot environment, such as for example in a bathroom.

[0024] This composition also dissolves quickly on contact with water and makes it possible to easily and quickly obtain a firm, creamy and abundant foam, of a quality comparable to the foam obtained with a conventional liquid shampoo composition. This foam can then be applied easily and evenly to the keratin fibers.

[0025] Furthermore, the composition of the invention rinses quickly while minimizing the amount of unpleasant residue left on the fibers and gives them a natural and clean feel after rinsing. The fibers treated with the composition of the invention also have good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of softness, suppleness, smoothness, touch. They are also well individualized and therefore easier to detangle.

[0026] The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a solid composition as defined above, the solid composition being applied directly to said keratin fibers or after having been previously moistened with water.

[0027] The present invention further relates to the use of a solid cosmetic composition as defined above for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0028] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0029] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted for it.

[0030] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a water content of less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 12% by weight, better still less than or equal to 11% by weight, even better still less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] More particularly, the water content ranges from 0 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 12% by weight, better still from 3 to 11% by weight, even better still from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] In particular, the composition does not include water added during its preparation. Any residual water present may come from the raw materials used during the preparation.

[0033] The solid composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a tablet, in particular compressed, a stick or a bar, preferably in the form of a bar (similar to a bar of soap).

[0034] By "bread" is meant a finished product of variable shape and size, generally weighing between 10 and 200 g, with a solid texture, composed of a mixture of ingredients, for example compressed, agglomerated, extruded or hot-cast, before generally undergoing a molding step. The final bread obtained is advantageously low in or devoid of air.

[0035] By “solid composition” is meant in particular a composition which does not collapse under its own weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.

[0036] Preferably, said solid composition according to the invention has a pe strength penetration, at 25°C, latm, greater than or equal to 210g, preferably greater than or equal to 500g. The penetration force is determined by penetrometry, using a Stable Micro Systems TA-XT Plus connect tex-turometer (Swantech) at 25°C. The penetrometry experiments are carried out with a metal rod equipped with a screw-on probe of type P / 2N needle, with a diameter of 2mm at the top, connected to the measuring head. The piston is pushed into the sample at a constant speed of 1mm / s, to a height of 5mm. The force exerted on the piston is recorded and the average value of the force (over 5 tests) is calculated.

[0037] Preferably, the hardness of the solid composition according to the invention is between 10 and 300 N, better still between 15 and 200 N, and better still between 15 and 100 N. Anionic sulfate-type surfactants

[0038] The solid composition according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants of sulfate type.

[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sulfate-type anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant comprising one or more sulfate functions (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0040] Such surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidosulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as their salts and their mixtures; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0041] Preferably, the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, alkyl sulfates, in particular C8 to C26, and preferably C10 to C22, alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C8 to C26, and preferably C10 to C22, preferably comprising from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, or amino alcohol salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] When the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts, and in particular amino alcohol salts, alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt, and mixtures thereof. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned are mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane. Preferably, salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0043] Preferably, the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium alkyl(Cio-C22)sulfates, sodium, ammonium or magnesium alkyl(Cio-C22)ethersulfates, oxyethyleneated, for example with 1 or 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Better still, the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium alkyl(Cio-C22) sulfates.

[0045] Advantageously, the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium cocosulfate and their mixture.

[0046] The presence in the composition according to the invention of sulfate surfactants in the indicated contents makes it possible to generate an abundant foam, which also has interesting foam qualities: the foam is very stable, it lasts a long time (= lasts a long time) on the head, it breaks less quickly than a usual foam. In addition, the foam is more enveloping, denser and creamier.

[0047] Advantageously, the total content of the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s), present in the solid composition according to the invention, ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, better still from 10 to 25% by weight, even better still from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Advantageously, the composition comprises one or more alkyl(Ci0-C22)sulfates, and their total content in the solid composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, better still from 10 to 25% by weight, even better still from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic sulfonate surfactants

[0049] The solid composition according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants of sulfonate type.

[0050] By "sulfonate type anionic surfactant" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an anionic surfactant comprising one or more sulfonic or sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3), which may optionally comprise one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO-) and not comprising sulfate functions.

[0051] Such surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, as well as their salts and their mixtures; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0052] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from N-acyltaurates, and in particular N-acyl N-methyltaurates, acylisethionates, as well as their salts and their mixtures.

[0053] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): RrCOX-R2-SO3M (I),

[0054] in which:

[0055] - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0056] - X represents an oxygen atom or a -N(CH3)- or -NH- group, of preferably an oxygen atom;

[0057] - R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon; and

[0058] - M denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion from an alkali metal or alkaline earth or an ion derived from an organic amine.

[0059] The anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type, and in particular those of formula (I) as defined above, may be used in salified or non-salified form. As salt, it is possible in particular to use alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts, for example, magnesium salts. As amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0060] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from acyl isethionates, preferentially from acyl(C8-C30) isethionates used in the form of salts, and better still in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0061] As examples of particularly preferred acyl(C8-C30)isethionates, mention may in particular be made of cocoyl isethionates and lauroylmethyl isethionates, in particular in the form of sodium salts.

[0062] Advantageously, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) of type sulfonate, present in the solid composition according to the invention, ranges from 5 to 45% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, better still from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more acyl(C 8-C 30) isethionates and their total content in the solid composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 5 to 45% by weight, better still from 10 to 40% by weight, preferentially from 20 to 35% by weight, better still from 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Preferably, the solid composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactant of carboxylate type.

[0065] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "carboxylate-type anionic surfactant" means an anionic surfactant comprising one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO-), and not comprising a sulfonic or sulfonate function and not comprising a sulfate function.

[0066] By "free", for the purposes of the present invention, is meant a composition which contains less than 0.1% by weight of such surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition, better still a composition which does not contain any (0%).

[0067] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactants present in the solid composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 30 to 70% by weight, better still from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Preferably, the total content of (sulfate type anionic surfactants a) and sulfonate type anionic surfactants b)) present in the solid composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 30 to 70% by weight, better still from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic galactomaimane gums

[0069] The solid composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more cationic polymers chosen from cationic galactomannan gums.

[0070] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means a polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups. They do not comprise an anionic group or a group that can be ionized into an anionic group.

[0071] Said cationic polymers may be associative or non-associative; a mixture of such polymers may also be used. Preferably, the cationic galactomannan gums are non-associative.

[0072] Said polymers are not silicone (do not include a Si-O unit).

[0073] Advantageously, the cationic galactomannan gums are chosen from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular Cl-4 alkyl, for example methyl.

[0074] Mention may in particular be made of guar gums modified by a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0075] We can thus cite, alone or in a mixture:

[0076] - the hydroxypropyl derivatives of said quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropyl guar, in particular the halide salts, in particular the chlorides; in particular those with the INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HY-DROXYPROPYL TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE

[0077] - quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropyl guar (understood not hy droxypropylated), in particular the halide salts, in particular the chlorides; in particular the trimethylammonium (or trimonium) derivatives of hydroxypropylguar, in particular their halide salts, in particular the chlorides.

[0078] Particularly preferred are the quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropylguar (meaning not hydroxypropylated), in particular the halide salts, in particular the chlorides; in particular the trimethylammonium (or trimonium) derivatives of hydroxypropylguar, in particular their halide salts, in particular the chlorides.

[0079] These particularly preferred cationic guar gums have the INCI name: GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE. Commercial products that may be mentioned include Jaguar C-13S, Jaguar C-14S and Jaguar C-17 from the company Solvay.

[0080] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the cationic ga-lactomannan gum(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the quaternary ammonium derivative(s) of hydroxypropylguar (meaning non-hydroxypropylated), in particular the halide salts, in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the quaternary trimethylammonium derivative(s) of hydroxypropylguar (meaning non-hydroxypropylated), in particular the halide salts, in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises GUAR HY-DROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10%. by weight, better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (Poly)glycerol esters

[0084] The solid composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more (poly)glycerol esters.

[0085] Advantageously, the (poly)glycerol ester(s) are chosen from:

[0086] - mono or polyesters of C8 to C40 acids, linear or branched, mono- or poly- glycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20, or even from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol; in particular mono- or diesters of C8 to C32 acids, better still C10 to C28, or even C10 to C24, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20, or even from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol,

[0087] and more preferably mono- or diesters of C8 to C40 acids, better still C8 to C32, even better C10 to C28, or even C10 to C24, linear or branched, mono- or poly-glycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20, or even from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol;

[0088] - triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which can be in C6 to C24 preferably in C8-C22;

[0089] - their mixtures.

[0090] Among the mono- or diesters of C8 to C40 acids, we can cite in particular:

[0091] - di-esters of acids in C12 to C32, better in C1 to C28, or even in C16 to C24, branched, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20, or even from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol; preferably the di-esters of C16 to C24 acids, branched, comprising from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol, among which we can cite the diester of isostearic acid with 3 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIL SOSTEARATE);

[0092] - mono-esters of C8 to C24 acids, better still C10 to C20, or even C10 to C[8, linear or branched, preferably linear, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20, or even from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol; preferably linear C10-C18 acid monoesters, comprising from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol, among which we can cite the lauric acid monoester with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4-LAURATE),

[0093] - and mixtures thereof.

[0094] The (poly)glycerol esters may also be chosen from triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may be C6 to C24, preferably C8-C22. These varied chains from C6 to C24 may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0095] These particular (poly)glycerol esters can in particular be chosen from heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, vegetable oils such as almond oil sweet, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil (or copra), coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, rosehip oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, camelina oil, oil soybean oil, sunflower oil, pracaxi oil, babassu oil, mongongo oil, marula oil, arara oil, shea butter oil, brazil nut oil, hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated castor oil;or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, refined plant perhydrosqualene marketed under the name fitoderm by the company Cognis; plant squalane marketed for example under the name Squalive by the company Biosynthis.

[0096] Preferably, the triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may be C6 to C24, are chosen from triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Preferably, the (poly)glycerol esters are chosen from linear C10-C18 acid monoesters comprising from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol, such as lauric acid monoester containing 4 moles of glycerol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof; better still from linear C10-C18 acid monoesters comprising from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol, such as lauric acid monoester containing 4 moles of glycerol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] Advantageously, the total content of the (poly)glycerol ester(s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, better still from 10 to 40% by weight, and even better still from 15 to 38% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Advantageously, the total content of the (poly)glycerol ester(s) chosen from linear C10-C18 acid monoesters comprising from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol, such as lauric acid monoester containing 4 moles of glycerol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, better still 10 to 40% by weight, and even better still from 15 to 38% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] Advantageously, the total content of the (poly)glycerol ester(s) chosen from linear C10-C18 acid monoesters comprising from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol, such as lauric acid monoester containing 4 moles of glycerol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.5 to 25% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, even better still from 2 to 15% by weight, and even better still from 3 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols

[0101] The solid composition according to the present invention comprises one or more polyols comprising at least 4 carbon atoms, better still at least 5 carbon atoms, in particular from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 5 to 7 carbon atoms.

[0102] Said polyol advantageously comprises at least 4 OH groups, better still at least 5 OH groups.

[0103] In particular, mention may be made of polyols comprising 6 carbon atoms and 6 OH groups, such as sorbitol which is particularly preferred.

[0104] Said polyols comprising at least 4 carbon atoms are advantageously solid at 25°C, 1 atm.

[0105] The composition comprises the polyol(s) comprising at least 4 carbon atoms, in particular C4-C8, in a total content of at least 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a total content ranging from 1.2 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.3 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.4 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 1.5 to 4.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Preferably, the composition comprises the polyol(s) comprising 6 carbon atoms and 6 OH groups in a total content of at least 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a total content ranging from 1.2 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.3 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.4 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 1.5 to 4.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Advantageously, the composition comprises sorbitol in a total content of at least 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1.2 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.3 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.4 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 1.5 to 4.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] The composition may also optionally comprise one or more C2-C3 polyols, in particular comprising 2 or 3 OH groups. Mention may in particular be made of glycerin, propylene glycol and their mixtures.

[0109] When they are present, the composition may comprise the C2-C3 polyol(s), in particular glycerin, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof, in a total content of 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still 1 to 8% by weight, preferably 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0111] - one or more polyols comprising at least 4 carbon atoms, better still at least 5 carbon atoms, in particular from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 5 to 7 carbon atoms, advantageously comprising at least 4 OH groups, better still at least 5 OH groups; and

[0112] - one or more C2-C3 polyols, in particular comprising 2 or 3 OH groups.

[0113] Even better, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols comprising 6 carbon atoms and 6 OH groups, in particular sorbitol; and one or more C2-C3 polyols comprising 2 or 3 OH groups, in particular glycerin and / or propylene glycol; very advantageously sorbitol and glycerin.

[0114] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of polyol(s) greater than or equal to 3% by weight, in particular ranging from 3 to 15% by weight, better still from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] Preferably, the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the total content of polyol(s) comprising at least 4 carbon atoms, and on the other hand the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s), present in the composition according to the invention, is greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1. Additional compounds

[0116] The solid composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additional compounds different from the compounds defined above, preferably chosen from cationic surfactants, anionic, non-ionic polymers, and mixtures thereof, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile, modified or unmodified silicones, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives, opacifying agents, lubricants (or anti-caking agents), scrubs, colorants, pearlescent agents, pigments and mixtures thereof.

[0117] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anti-dandruff agents, in particular chosen from pyrithione salts; 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives; selenium (poly)sulfides, as well as mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives, selenium (poly)sulfides and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Pyrithione is the compound l-hydroxy-2(lH)-pyridinethione or 2-pyridinethiol-1-oxide. Pyrithione salts may in particular be salts of monovalent metals and divalent metals such as sodium, calcium, magnesium, barium, strontium, zinc, cadmium, tin and zirconium salts. Divalent metal salts and in particular the zinc salt (zinc pyrithione) are particularly preferred.

[0119] The 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (Al) or their salts: OH

[0120] in which:

[0121] - RI denotes a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl-alkyl group, the cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl or aralkyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl-alkenyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl and aryl groups as defined above may be substituted by one or more alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or one or more alkoxy groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0122] - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon; an alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a halogen atom or a benzyl group;

[0123] - R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a phenyl group; and

[0124] - R4 denotes a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon; an alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a methoxymethyl group; a halogen atom or a benzyl group.

[0125] Among these compounds, those particularly preferred are constituted by 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridone and 6-cyclohexyl-1-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-(1H)-pyridone.

[0126] Among the salts which can be used, mention may be made of lower alkanolamine salts (Ci-C4) such as ethanolamine and diethanolamine, amine or alkylamine salts, as well as salts with inorganic cations such as ammonium salts, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts.

[0127] Particular preference will be given to the monoethanolamine salt of l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(lH)-pyridinone, more commonly called piroctone olamine or octopirox.

[0128] Among the selenium (poly)sulfides, we can cite selenium disulfide and po- Selenium lysulfides of formula SexSy in which x and y are numbers such that x+y=8. Selenium disulfide is in the form of a powder whose particles generally have a particle size of less than 200 pm, preferably less than 25 pm

[0129] Preferably, the anti-dandruff agent, when present, is chosen from piroctone olamine and selenium disulfide, as well as their mixture.

[0130] Preferably, when the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more anti-dandruff agents, it may comprise it / them in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.8% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0131] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, and in particular a process for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a solid composition as defined above.

[0132] The solid composition can be applied directly to said keratin fibers or after having been previously moistened with water.

[0133] The solid composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, and preferably to wet keratin fibers.

[0134] The solid composition thus applied may optionally be rinsed or not, after a possible exposure time which may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes. Preferably the composition according to the invention is rinsed.

[0135] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the solid composition is applied directly to the keratin fibers, that is to say without being previously moistened with water.

[0136] When, according to this first embodiment, the solid composition of the invention is applied directly (i.e. without prior moistening) to the dry keratin fibers, water may optionally be added to said fibers and then rubbed / massaged in order to solubilize / pre-emulsify said composition and form an abundant and immediate foam. The foam thus obtained may then be rinsed after a possible exposure time.

[0137] The solid composition of the invention can also be applied directly (i.e. without prior moistening) to the wet keratin fibers, then massaged / rubbed to obtain an immediate and abundant foam. The foam thus obtained can then be rinsed after a possible exposure time.

[0138] According to another embodiment of the invention, the solid composition is previously moistened in water before being applied to the keratin fibers. According to this embodiment, preferably a small amount (preferably ranging from 1 to 3g) of solid composition is advantageously solubilized with water, for example in the hand, so as to form an abundant and immediate foam. The foam thus obtained can then be applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet, before being possibly rinsed with water after a possible exposure time.

[0139] The present invention also relates to the use of a solid composition as defined above for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0140] The composition according to the invention can be prepared by any known means.

[0141] Advantageously, it can be prepared by a process comprising a molding step.

[0142] This method may in particular comprise:

[0143] - a step of mixing the different ingredients; preferably this step is carried out at room temperature (20-30°C) in a mixer; preferably, the cationic polymer is added last; preferably the mixture is mixed until a homogeneous composition is obtained;

[0144] - preferably a step of grinding said mixture in order to obtain chips; said step can be carried out using a three-cylinder grinder, preferably equipped with a cooling unit, at room temperature;

[0145] - preferably a step of forming a sausage; this step can be carried out in an extruder (or extruder); preferably, this step is carried out at a temperature below 30°C; the chips can be sent into the primary screw of the extruder, then can pass into a vacuum chamber and then into a final screw, preferably thermo-cooled (<-10°C), and can finally be extruded preferably through a thermo-regulated cone (30-35°C) and a die, so as to obtain a sausage.

[0146] - preferably a step of cutting the sausage; the sausage obtained previously can be cut into loaves, according to the desired length, in particular using a cutter, preferably at a temperature below 30°C.

[0147] - a step of molding the composition preferably in the form of a loaf; by For example, the loaves may be placed in a mold and pressed, for example using a press, preferably at a temperature below -10°C, for example ranging from -25°C to -10°C.

[0148] Preferably, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises

[0149] (i) one or more anionic surfactants of sulfate type chosen from alkyl(C10-C22) sulfates of sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium, alkyl(C10-C22)ethersulfates of sodium, ammonium or magnesium, oxyethylenated, for example with 1 or 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof; preferably in a total content ranging from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, better still from 10 to 25% by weight, even better still from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0150] (ii) one or more anionic surfactants of sulfonate type chosen from acyl-sethionates, preferably from acyl(C8-C30)isethionates used in the form of salts, and better still in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts; preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 45% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, better still from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0151] (iii) one or more cationic galactomannan gums, chosen from quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropylguar (meaning non-hydroxypropylated), in particular halide salts, in particular chlorides; in particular trimethylammonium (or trimonium) derivatives of hydroxypropylguar, in particular their halide salts, in particular chlorides; preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0152] (iv) one or more (poly)glycerol esters chosen from linear C10-C18 acid monoesters comprising from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol, such as lauric acid monoester containing 4 moles of glycerol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof; preferably in a total content of 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 45% by weight, better still 10 to 40% by weight, and even better still 15 to 38% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0153] (v) one or more polyols comprising at least 4 carbon atoms, in particular comprising 6 carbon atoms and 6 OH groups, in a content of at least 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1.2 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.3 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.4 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 1.5 to 4.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0155] In the following examples, all quantities are indicated, unless otherwise indicated, as a percentage by mass of active material (g% MA) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] In the examples which follow, unless otherwise indicated, the compositions are prepared according to the process described above, by extrusion followed by a molding step. Example 1

[0157] The following compositions (A according to the invention, A1 comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (g% MA):

[0158] [Tables 1] Composition A (invention) Al (comparative) Syndopal 300 (Stephenson)* 72.5** 73.5** Sodium coco-sulphate 20 20 Cationic guar (Jaguar C13S) 1.5 - Cationic guar (Jaguar Cl62) - 2.5 Sorbitol 2.0 - Parfum 2 2 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 2 2 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0159] * Syndopal 300: mixture of Sodium cocoyl isethionate (25-50%), hydrogenated vegetable oil (25-50%), polyglyceryl-4 laurate (5-10%), glycerin (1-5%), water (5-10%)

[0160] ** quantity of commercial product

[0161] MA = active ingredient

[0162] Composition A according to the invention is not sticky during its preparation, it can be extruded and molded, in order to produce a composition in the form of loaves.

[0163] The comparative composition Al becomes increasingly sticky during manufacturing / extrusion; the loaves cannot be molded industrially without generating significant material losses (the loaves are too sticky).

[0164] Composition A is therefore presented in the form of loaves that are easy to hold in the hand.

[0165] The bar can be applied directly to damp hair to generate foam, then distributed as with a usual liquid shampoo.

[0166] It is also possible to generate the foam in the hand with water, then distribute the foam on the hair.

[0167] The composition can be left on for a few moments, then the hair is rinsed with water.

[0168] The foam generated is abundant and creamy, easy to spread throughout the hair. The foaming (obtaining the foam) is particularly rapid. After kneading, the composition is easy to rinse.

[0169] Wet hair detangles easily and feels smooth. After drying, hair is supple, individualized and soft. Example 2

[0170] The compositions below (B according to the invention, B1 comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table (g% MA):

[0171] [Tables2] Composition B invention B1 comparison Syndopal 300 MB (Stephenson)* 72.2** 73.2** Sodium coco-sulphate 20 20 GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (Jaguar C13S) 1.5 - HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (Jaguar Cl62) - 2.5 Sorbitol 2 - Caprylic / capric triglyceride 2 2 Coconut oil 0.1 0.1 Kaolin 0.08 0.08 Perfume 2 2 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0172] * Syndopal 300 MB: Sodium cocoyl isethionate (25-50%), Hydrogenated vegetable oil (25-50%), water (8-14%), polyglyceryl-4 laurate (5-10%), glycerin (1-5%), te-trasodium glutamate diacetate (0.1-0.5%)

[0173] ** quantity of commercial product

[0174] The compositions are presented in the form of loaves:

[0175] - those prepared from composition B according to the invention are prepared by extrusion, cut and molded;

[0176] - those prepared from comparative composition B1 are prepared by extrusion and cut, without molding step.

[0177] In order to simulate aging of the composition in a usage environment such as a bathroom (heat + humidity), the water uptake of each of the loaves is tested in the following manner:

[0178] - the loaves are weighed at T0,

[0179] - the loaves are placed individually in a glass jar and 10% of their weight in water in order to mimic their use and storage in stagnant water,

[0180] - the closed jars are then placed in an oven at 37°C,

[0181] - the loaves are weighed again after 24 hours, 36 hours and 48 hours of storage in the jar in the oven.

[0182] The following results are obtained (weight in g, average over 3 loaves):

[0183] [Tables3] T0 After 24h After 36h After 48h Bread B (invention) 84.57 + 0.07 88.37 + 0.39 87.11 + 0.22 84.69 + 0.11 Bread B1 (comparative) 80.03 + 0.03 85.67 + 0.54 84.57 + 0.41 80.64 + 0.08

[0184] We can then calculate the % variation in the weight of the bread, between its initial state and its state after storage; we obtain the following results:

[0185] [Tables4] After 24h After 36h After 48h Bread B (invention) 4.5% 3.0% 0.1% Bread B1 (comparative) 7.0% 5.7% 0.8%

[0186] It is noted that the breads according to the invention have absorbed less water than the comparative breads, whether after 24, 36 or 48 hours. Their appearance is less altered.

Claims

Claims

1. Solid cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more anionic surfactants of sulfate type; - one or more anionic surfactants of sulfonate type; - one or more cationic galactomannan gums, - one or more (poly)glycerol esters and - one or more polyols comprising at least 4 carbon atoms, in a total content of at least 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfate type are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, alkyl sulfates, in particular C8 to C26, and preferably C10 to C22, alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C8 to C26, and preferably C10 to C22, preferably comprising from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, or amino alcohol salts, and mixtures thereof; better still from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium alkyl(C10-C22) sulfates, sodium, ammonium or magnesium alkyl(C10-C22) ether sulfates, oxyethylenated, for example with 1 or 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof; even better among the alkyl(Ci0-C22) sulfates of sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium, and in particular among sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium cocosulfate and their mixture.

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the sulfate-type anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, better still from 10 to 25% by weight, even better still from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from N-acyltaurates, and in particular N-acyl N-methyltaurates, acyl isethionates, as well as their salts and their mixtures; preferably from acyl isethionates, preferentially from acyl(C8-C30) isethionates used in the form of salts, and better still in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts; and in particular from cocoyl isethionates and lau- roylmethyl isethionates, especially in the form of sodium salts.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the sulfonate-type anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 5 to 45% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, better still from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic galactomannan gums are chosen from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular C1-4 alkyl, for example methyl; better still from hydroxypropyl derivatives of said quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropylguar, in particular halide salts, in particular chlorides; quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropylguar, in particular halide salts, in particular chlorides; and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of cationic galactomannan gums ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the (poly)glycerol esters are chosen from linear C10-C18 acid monoesters comprising from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof; better still from linear C10-C18 acid monoesters comprising from 2 to 10 moles of glycerol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the (poly)glycerol ester(s) ranges from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, better still from 10 to 40% by weight, and even better still from 15 to 38% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the polyol comprising at least 4 carbon atoms, comprises at least 5 carbon atoms, in particular from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 5 to 7 carbon atoms; and / or comprises at least 4 OH groups, better still at least 5 OH groups; preferably is chosen from polyols comprising 6 carbon atoms and 6 OH groups, in particular sorbitol.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of polyol comprising at least 4 carbon atoms ranges from 1.2 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.3 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.4 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 1.5 to 4.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more C2-C3 polyols, in particular comprising 2 or 3 OH groups, in particular glycerin, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof; preferably in a total content of 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still 1 to 8% by weight, preferentially 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio between on the one hand the total content of polyol(s) comprising at least 4 carbon atoms, and on the other hand the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s), is greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1.

14. Process for cosmetic treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, said composition being applied directly to said keratin fibers or after having been previously moistened with water.

15. Use of a solid composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

16. Process for preparing a solid cosmetic composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 13, said process comprising a step of molding said composition.