RINSE-IN HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION, Hair treatment process, Process for delivering lasting definition to curly hair AND Use of a COMPOSITION
A rinse-off hair cosmetic composition with specific ingredients penetrates the hair to create lasting bonds, addressing curl definition and frizz issues in curly hair, offering improved curl longevity and reduced maintenance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023010394
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-05-31
- Filing Date
- 2023-09-29
- Publication Date
- 2024-12-20
AI Technical Summary
Consumers with curly hair face challenges in maintaining curl definition, as curls tend to frizz and lose shape under high humidity and after chemical treatments, requiring frequent application of multiple products to reset curl definition, which is time-consuming.
A rinse-off hair cosmetic composition comprising organic acids, non-aqueous solvents with hydroxyl groups, amino acids, fatty compounds, esters, and surfactants, which penetrate the hair fiber to create lasting bonds, providing long-lasting curl definition and frizz control without buildup.
The composition achieves superior curl definition, frizz control, and volume management compared to standard shampoos, delivering long-lasting results without the need for frequent reapplication.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: RINSE-IN HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION, Hair treatment method, Method for delivering lasting definition to curly hair AND Use of a COMPOSITION FIELD OF INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to rinse-out cosmetic hair compositions comprising (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes, and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof; and (g) water. The invention also relates to a method for treating hair, particularly curly hair, a method for delivering lasting definition to curly hair, and the use of the rinse-out cosmetic hair composition. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] People use various cosmetic and personal care compositions to enhance the appearance and feel of keratinous fibers, such as hair.
[0003] Particularly with regard to curly hair, consumers are always faced with problems related to curl definition such as frizz, volume, and shape. Curly hair tends to frizz and increase significantly in volume when exposed to high humidity, chemical treatments, and other factors. Furthermore, the shape and definition of curls are lost after sleeping.
[0004] Numerous attempts have been made to develop products intended to discipline, define and control hair, especially curly hair, by strengthening / maintaining curl definition, curl retention and curl regularity, without giving the hair an unnatural and stiff feel and / or appearance, but these products have resulted in additional problems or maintenance difficulties.
[0005] In this sense, there is a need on the market for curly hair products that define curls in a lasting way, since the standard routine for curly hair includes the use of several cosmetic products along the entire length of the hair and must be reset every three days, as curls tend to lose definition and a fresh appearance after this period – it is a very time-consuming, which means that consumers repeat all the steps approximately every other day, including washing their hair and applying different cosmetic products.
[0006] Therefore, it is desirable to have a hair cosmetic product for curly hair which not only helps to define curls, but also offers lasting cosmetic benefits to the consumer's hair, such as resistance to frizz, which leaves hair shiny and is easy to apply.
[0007] The inventors of the present invention have obtained, in a surprising and unexpected manner, hair cosmetic compositions, specially designed for curly hair, comprising (a) at least one organic acid, (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group, (c) at least one amino acid, (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (g) water, which are capable of penetrating the hair fiber without accumulation on the surface of the fiber (creating new bonds that make the hair stronger for longer), while also providing lasting curl definition and also delivering cosmetic benefits, such as shine, a smooth feel, and spreadability. Summary of the invention
[0008] The present invention relates to rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions comprising (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes, and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof; and (g) water. The invention also relates to a method for treating hair, particularly curly hair, and a method for delivering lasting definition to curly hair. Brief description of the drawings
[0009] [Fig.1A] Fig.1A relates to the results of comparative in vitro test 1 in which inventive Ex. A, and inventive Ex. C were compared to Ex. 1, with regard to the definition of the loops.
[0010] [Fig.1B] Fig.1B relates to the results of comparative in vitro test 1 in which Inventive Ex. A and Inventive Ex. C were compared to Ex. 1, with regard to the control of frizz and hair volume.
[0011] [Fig. 2A] [Fig. 2A] relates to the results of the comparative in vitro test 2 in in which inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. D were compared to Ex. 2, concerning the definition of loops.
[0012] [Fig.2B] Fig.2B relates to the results of comparative in vitro test 2 in which inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. D were compared to Ex. 2, concerning the control of frizz and hair volume.
[0013] [Fig.3A] The [Fig.3A] relates to the results of the comparative in vitro test 3 in which inventive Ex. A, and inventive Ex. E were compared to Ex. 3, concerning the definition of the loops.
[0014] [Fig.3B] Fig.3B relates to the results of the comparative in vitro test 3 in which inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. E were compared to Ex. 3 with regard to the control of frizz and hair volume.
[0015] [Fig.4A] The [Fig.4A] relates to the results of the comparative in vitro test 4 in which inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. F were compared to Ex. 4, concerning the definition of the loops.
[0016] [Fig.4B] The [Fig.4B] relates to the results of the comparative in vitro test 4 in which the inventive Ex. A, and the inventive Ex. F were compared to Ex. 4, concerning the control of frizz and hair volume.
[0017] [Fig.5A] The [Fig.5A] relates to the results of the comparative in vitro test 5 in which inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. G were compared to Ex. 5, concerning the definition of the loops.
[0018] [Fig.5B] The [Fig.5B] relates to the results of the comparative in vitro test 5 in which inventive Ex. A and inventive Ex. G were compared to Ex. 5, concerning the control of frizz and hair volume.
[0019] [Fig.ôA] The [Fig.ôA] relates to the results of the comparative in vitro Test 6 in which Inventive Ex. A and Inventive Ex. H were compared to Ex. 6, concerning the definition of the loops.
[0020] [Fig.ôB] Fig.ôB relates to the results of the comparative in vitro Test 6 in which Inventive Ex. A and Inventive Ex. H were compared to Ex. 6, concerning the control of frizz and hair volume.
[0021] [Fig.7A] The [Fig.7A] relates to the results of the comparative in vitro Test 7 in which Inventive Ex. B and Inventive Ex. I were compared to Ex. 7, concerning the definition of the loops.
[0022] [Fig.7B] Fig.7B relates to the results of the comparative in vitro Test 7 in which Inventive Ex. B and Inventive Ex. I were compared to Ex. 7, concerning the control of frizz and hair volume. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0023] The present invention relates to a rinse-off cosmetic hair composition, principal- primarily for curly hair, including: a. at least one organic acid; b. a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group; c. at least one amino acid; d. at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, resins vegetable waxes and their mixtures; e. at least one ester; f. at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and g. of water.
[0024] In one embodiment, at least one organic acid is selected from short-chain organic acids, preferably α-hydroxy acids (AHAs), β-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof. In another embodiment, at least one organic acid in the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0025] In a preferred embodiment, at least one organic acid is tartaric acid.
[0026] In a preferred embodiment, at least one organic acid is lactic acid.
[0027] In one embodiment, at least one organic acid includes tartaric acid and a second organic acid selected from lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid and citric acid.
[0028] In a preferred embodiment, at least one organic acid includes tartaric acid and lactic acid.
[0029] The quantity of at least one organic acid ranges from 0.1% to 25.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, 0.5% to about 8.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5.0% by weight, and even more preferably from about 1.0% to about 4.0%, and most preferably from about 1.0% to about 3.0%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0030] The rinse-off hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises a non-aqueous solvent including at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group. Without being limited to any particular theory, the non-aqueous solvent including at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group is thought to act as a penetrating agent, i.e., it is capable of forming dipole-dipole interactions with keratinous fibers, such as hair, and of binding to sites polar to the surface of said keratinous fiber and to reduce protection, thus promoting the penetration of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition into the keratinous fibers.
[0031] In one embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is chosen from polyols, C2 to C6 monoalcohols and one of their mixtures.
[0032] In one embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from polyols. In one embodiment, the polyol is a glycol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the polyol comprises propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol. In one embodiment, the polyol is glycerin. In one embodiment, the polyol comprises propylene glycol and glycerin.
[0033] In one embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from C2 to C6 monoalcohols. In one embodiment, the C2 to C6 monoalcohols include ethanol and / or propanol and / or isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) and / or butanol and / or hexanol.
[0034] In one embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of C2-C6 polyols and monoalcohols. In another embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol and ethanol. In yet another embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol and isopropyl alcohol.In one embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol, isopropyl alcohol, and ethanol. In another embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol, isopropyl alcohol, ethanol, and glycerin. In another embodiment, the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises [missing information]. propylene glycol, ethanol and glycerin.
[0035] The amount of the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group ranges from about 0.1% to about 20.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 15.0% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 10.0% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 7.0% by weight, or from about 1.0% to about 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0036] According to the present invention, at least one amino acid is chosen from arginine and glycine.
[0037] In one embodiment, at least one amino acid is chosen from arginine.
[0038] In one embodiment, at least one amino acid is chosen from glycine.
[0039] In one embodiment, at least one amino acid is chosen from arginine and wisteria.
[0040] The amount of at least one amino acid ranges from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10.0% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 7.0% by weight, more preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 6.0% by weight, and even more preferably from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other suitable ranges are from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3.0% by weight, or from approximately 0.7% to approximately 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0041] In one embodiment, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof is selected from Copaiba Officinalis resin (Copaiba Balsam) (oily resin or resin form).
[0042] In another embodiment, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof is selected from coconut oil, soybean oil (soybean germ oil) and mixtures thereof.
[0043] In one embodiment, at least one fatty compound includes coconut oil.
[0044] In one embodiment, at least one fatty compound includes germ oil of soy.
[0045] In one embodiment, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof includes copaiba resin, Candeia resin and breu branco resin.
[0046] In one embodiment, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof is copaiba resin.
[0047] In one embodiment, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof includes copaiba resin, coconut oil and soybean oil.
[0048] In one embodiment, at least one fatty compound selected from the oils vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and their mixtures include copaiba resin and coconut oil.
[0049] In one embodiment, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof includes candelilla wax.
[0050] In another embodiment, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof includes Camauba wax, beeswax, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] The quantity of at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof shall be from about 0.1% to about 15.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 14.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.15% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.17% to about 4.0% by weight, or such as about 0.1%, about 0.17%, about 0.2%, about 0.3%, about 0.36%, about 0.4%, about 0.5% to about 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0052] In one embodiment, at least one surfactant selected from cationic, non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof, includes at least one cationic surfactant. In a preferred embodiment, at least one cationic surfactant is selected from quaternary ammonium salts such as cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and from cationizable surfactants, for example, amidoamine compounds such as oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine,behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethylidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0053] In one embodiment, at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof, includes at least one cationic surfactant selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof.
[0054] In one embodiment, at least one surfactant chosen from among the surfactants cationic, non-ionic, cationic and amphoteric, and mixtures thereof, includes at least one cationic surfactant selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0055] In one embodiment, at least one surfactant selected from cationic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof, includes at least one nonionic surfactant. In a preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from fatty alcohols.
[0056] In one embodiment, fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0057] In one embodiment, fatty alcohols include cetearyl alcohol.
[0058] In one embodiment, fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol.
[0059] In one embodiment, fatty alcohols include stearyl alcohol.
[0060] In one embodiment, fatty alcohols include cetearyl alcohol and alcohol stearyl.
[0061] In one embodiment, fatty alcohols include an alkoxylated alcohol.
[0062] In one embodiment, fatty alcohols include an alkoxylated alcohol selected from steareth-20, laureth-12, ceteareth-20, deceth-10, trideceth-6 and their mixtures.
[0063] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may include at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from propylene glycol oleate (and) peg-55 propylene glycol, decyl glucoside, cocamide mea, Peg-150 distearate, Ppg-5-ceteth-20, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] In one embodiment, the at least one surfactant includes at least one cationic surfactant selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof, and at least one nonionic surfactant selected from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0065] The quantity of at least one surfactant chosen from cationic, nonionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof, ranges from about 0.05% to about 15.0% by weight, preferably from about 1.0% to about 14.0% by weight, preferably from about 1.5% to about 12.0% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 12% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 11.0%, from about 3.0% to about 10.0% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition.
[0066] Individually, each surfactant may be present in an amount such as approximately 0.05%, approximately 0.5%, approximately 1.0%, approximately 1.5%, approximately 1.8%, approximately 2.4%, approximately 3.0%, approximately 3.5%, approximately 4.0%, approximately 5.0%, approximately 5.5%, approximately 6.0%, approximately 6.5%, approximately 7.0%, approximately 7.5%, approximately 8.0%, approximately 8.5%, approximately 9.0%, approximately 9.5%, approximately 10.0%, approximately 10.5%, approximately 11.0%, approximately 11.5%, approximately 12.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one surfactant is at least a cationic surfactant ranging from about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, for example from about 1.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 1.4% to about 9.0% by weight, from about 1.4% to about 8.0% by weight, from about 1.4% to about 6.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 6.0% by weight, from about 2.4% to about 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0068] In a preferred embodiment, at least one surfactant is at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from at least one fatty alcohol ranging from about 0.1 to about 12.0% by weight, such as from about 3.0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 4.0% to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0069] In a preferred embodiment, at least one surfactant is at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from at least one of coco-betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof, ranging from about 0.1 to about 12.0% by weight, such as about 3.0 to about 12.0% by weight, about 4.0% to about 12.0% by weight, about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] In one embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one ester, which may be selected from isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl esters and mixtures thereof.
[0071] In a preferred embodiment, at least one surfactant is at least one nonionic surfactant selected from at least one fatty alcohol ranging from about 0.5 to about 10.0% by weight, such as from about 1.0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0072] In one embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant, which may be selected from, but not limited to, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate and mixtures thereof.
[0073] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from about 0.5 to about 10.0% by weight, such as from about 1.0 to about 12.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 12.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 6.0% to about 9.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0074] In one embodiment, the rinse-off composition of the invention comprises one or more pigments. In a preferred embodiment, the pigment includes a violet pigment.
[0075] In one embodiment, the pigment in the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention ranges from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the pigment in the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention ranges from approximately 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0076] In one embodiment, the rinse-off composition of the invention is used as a shampoo.
[0077] In one embodiment, the rinse-off composition of the invention is in the form of a shampoo.
[0078] In another preferred embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition may be, but not exclusively, free or substantially free of silicon.
[0079] The pH of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is from about 4 to about 7.
[0080] When used as a rinse-off hair cosmetic composition, such as a shampoo, the penetration time is shorter than when used as a leave-in product. Thus, the inventors of the present invention have obtained a composition with superior definition and frizz control compared to standard shampoos on the market.
[0081] The inventors have discovered that the technology of the present invention exhibits surprisingly superior performance in terms of definition, lasting definition, volume control and frizz control when applied as a shampoo.
[0082] Moreover, the present invention relates to a hair treatment method, and a method for delivering lasting definition to hair, in particular to curly hair, comprising the steps of (1) bringing the hair into contact with the rinse-out cosmetic hair composition of the invention and (2) rinsing the cosmetic hair composition from the hair.
[0083] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is used as a rinse-out product to deliver lasting curl definition without build-up or frizz, which improves curl regularity, discipline, volume control, curl individualization and quick drying, among other attributes.
[0084] Moreover, the present invention relates to a method for treating hair, in particular curly hair, comprising step (1) of contacting the hair with the rinse-off cosmetic hair composition of the invention and step (2) rinsing of the hair composition.
[0085] Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a method for delivering lasting definition to curly hair, comprising bringing the hair into contact with the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the invention.
[0086] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition for the manufacture of a rinse-out hair care product to provide improved curl definition.
[0087] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is used as a rinse-out product to deliver long-lasting curl definition without buildup or frizz, which improves curl uniformity, manageability, volume control, curl individualization, and quick drying, among other attributes. ORGANIC ACID
[0088] At least one organic acid in the compositions can be chosen from alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids and one of their mixtures.
[0089] The term "alpha-hydroxy acid" refers, according to the present invention, to a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group). A "beta-hydroxy acid" is closely related to an alpha-hydroxy acid, except that the carboxyl and hydroxyl functional groups are separated by two carbon atoms. A hydroxy acid may be present in the final composition as the free acid and / or as one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali metal, in particular), especially depending on the final pH imposed on the composition.
[0090] The alpha hydroxy acid present in the composition according to the invention includes, but is not limited to, one or more of the following: tartaric acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-Hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, their salts and mixtures. It is also possible to use mixtures of these different acids.
[0091] In some embodiments, the composition includes alpha hydroxy acids comprising tartaric acid and lactic acid. When combined, more than one alpha hydroxy acid may be present in the same amount or in different quantities.
[0092] Beta-hydroxy acid, when present in the composition according to the disclosure, includes, but is not limited to, one or more of salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate and willow extract), beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid and tre-thocanic acid.
[0093] In some embodiments, the composition includes tartaric acid.
[0094] In some embodiments, the composition includes tartaric acid and lactic acid. COMPOSED WITH AT LEAST ONE HYDROXYL GROUP
[0095] The non-aqueous solvent of the present invention comprises at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0096] Said compound with at least one hydroxyl group can be selected from polyols, and / or monoalcohols in C2 to C6 such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin.
[0097] Other non-limiting examples include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.
[0098] In some cases, the compound with at least one hydroxyl group may be selected from the group consisting of one or more glycols, C14 alcohols, glycerin, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the compound with at least one hydroxyl group may be selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, isopropyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0099] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof.
[0100] Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-l,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-l,2-diol and 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol and any mixture thereof. AMINO ACID
[0101] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid. As used herein, the term "amino acid" includes amino acids such as proteinogenic amino acids, sulfonic amino acids and their salts.
[0102] Amino acids are simple organic compounds containing both a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and an amino group (-NH2). Sulfonic amino acids are simple organic compounds containing both a sulfonic acid group (-SO2OH) and an amino group (-NH2). Consequently, the amino acids useful according to the disclosure can, in certain embodiments, be selected from the compounds of Formula (I) and Formula (II): (I) (II)
[0103] in which: • R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear in C1-C5, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by at least one group selected from hydroxyl, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O and M+, and S(O)2-O and M+, M+ representing a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or ammonium, and • n is either 0 or 1.
[0104] Amino acids can be found in their non-ionized form (I) and (II) or their ionized or betaine form (I1) and (IF): i. (D (II) (IF)
[0105] in which R and n are such as defined above.
[0106] One or more amino acids may also be in their conjugated basic form (Ib) and (Ilb): (Ib) (Hb)
[0107] in which R and n are such as defined above.
[0108] Well-known amino acids include the twenty amino acids that form the proteins of living organisms (standard proteinogenic amino acids): alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. However, the amino acids in this disclosure are not limited to the standard proteinogenic amino acids.
[0109] Non-limiting examples of amino sulfonic acids include ami-nomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), ami-nopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sul-fanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0110] In some cases, charged amino acids may be used. Non-limiting examples of charged amino acids include arginine, lysine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid. In some cases, polar amino acids are useful. Non-limiting examples of polar amino acids include glutamine, asparagine, histidine, serine, threonine, tyrosine, cysteine, methionine, and tryptophan.
[0111] In some cases, hydrophobic amino acids may be used. Non-limiting examples of hydrophobic amino acids include alanine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, valine, proline, and glycine. FAT COMPOUND
[0112] At least one fatty compound of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the The present invention can be chosen from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof. Vegetable oil
[0113] In one embodiment, the fatty compound of the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention, selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof, comprises at least one vegetable oil.
[0114] In a non-limiting and preferred embodiment, at least one vegetable oil is selected from coconut oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, avocado oil, soybean oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, castor oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, basil oil, bay leaf oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, birch oil, camphor, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, lemongrass oil, clary sage, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander, oil of Peppermint, cranberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, dill oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil,grapeseed oil, henna oil, horseradish oil, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, marjoram, melaleuca, lemon oil, lemon balm oil, mountain savory, mugwort oil, mustard oil, myrrh oil, myrtle, neem oil, neroli, nutmeg, orange oil, oregano oil, iris oil, palo santo, parsley oil, peppermint oil, pine oil, plum oil, rose oil, rosehip oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, Spruce, star anise oil, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0115] In certain embodiments, the vegetable oils suitable for use in the hair care compositions of the present invention are selected from coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, hazelnut oil, Brazil nut oil, rapeseed oil, peach kernel oil, jojoba oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0116] When present, vegetable oil can improve the penetration effect.
[0117] In a preferred embodiment, the vegetable oil of the present invention is Coconut oil, which is mainly composed of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid. Other oils of the same composition could be applied to the invention, such as babassu oil.
[0118] In another preferred embodiment, the rinse-off cosmetic hair composition of the present invention further comprises at least one vegetable oil selected from argan oil, soybean oil, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the rinse-off cosmetic hair compositions of the present invention comprise a mixture of vegetable oils and vegetable resins, such as coconut oil and Copaiba Officinalis (Copaiba Balsam resin) (copaiba resin or copaiba oleoresin). Vegetable resin
[0119] In one embodiment, the fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof in the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one vegetable resin.
[0120] Preferably, the plant resin of the present invention is Copaifera officinalis (BALSAM COPAIBA) RESIN (INCI name), which may be in the form of copaiba oil resin or copaiba resin. Copaifera officinalis (BALSAM COPAIBA) RESIN is commercially available under the trade name RAIN FOREST RF3310 (also known by the chemical name Copaiba Oleoresin) or under the trade name RAIN FOREST 03370 (also known by the chemical name Copaiba Resin), both from the supplier Clariant. Vegetable waxes
[0121] In one embodiment, the fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof comprises a vegetable wax.
[0122] Where appropriate, the vegetable wax may be chosen from Candelilla wax, Camauba wax, beeswax and mixtures thereof. WATER
[0123] The rinse-off hair cosmetic compositions according to the present invention comprise water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or deionized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water, or Avène water. The water may also include reconstituted thermal water, that is, water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, and magnesium etc., restoring the characteristics of thermal water.
[0124] The rinse-off hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise water in an amount from about 30.0% to about 99.0% by weight, preferably from about 65.0% to about 95.0% by weight, and most preferably from about 70.0% to about 92.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition. ESTERS
[0125] In preferred embodiments, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one ester. The at least one ester may be selected from, but not limited to, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl esters and mixtures thereof.
[0126] When present, the amount of at least one ester ranges from about 0.5% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 1.5% to about 5.0% by weight, from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, from about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 5.0% by weight, from about 2.0% to about 3.0% by weight, from about 5.0% to about 8.5% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
[0127] In addition to the essential components described above, the hair composition of the present invention may further comprise any conventional cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen in particular from cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from perfumes / fragrances, preservatives (such as, but not limited to, phenoxyethanol), vitamins, plant extracts, pH adjusters, pearlescent agents, silicones (such as, but not limited to, polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino-functional polydimethylsiloxanes (amodimethicone), dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, compounds containing nitrogen dimethicone copolyol quatemium, dimethicone phosphate copolyol esters, and mixtures thereof), pigments (such as,without being limited to them (e.g., violet), and their mixtures.
[0128] A person skilled in the art shall ensure that the optional additional ingredients and / or their quantity are selected so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, compromised by the envisaged addition.
[0129] Additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1% to about 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. TERMS
[0130] As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0131] As used herein, the term "approximately" in relation to a declared numeric value modifies the value of the declared amount by a variation of ± 20% of said declared numeric value.
[0132] As used here, the expression "at least one" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0133] As used herein, a "rinse-out composition" refers to a composition that is rinsed and / or washed with water after or during application of the composition to the hair, and before drying and / or styling the hair. At least some of the composition is removed from the hair during rinsing and / or washing.
[0134] The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of the hair. The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to bringing the hair into contact with the compositions of this disclosure.
[0135] Except in functional examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are understood to be modified in all circumstances by the term "approximately", meaning to within + / - 5% of the number indicated.
[0136] As used herein, all provided ranges are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate subranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value for deducing a subrange, etc.
[0137] The expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used here means that less than about 5% by weight of a specific material is added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than about 2% by weight, less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, less than about 0.01% by weight, or none of the specified material.
[0138] “Cosmetically acceptable” means that the article in question is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair. For example, a "cosmetically acceptable vector" refers to a vector compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.
[0139] The expression "hair cosmetic composition" as used herein may can also be a hair styling or hair shaping composition or hair care or hair treatment.
[0140] The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a positively charged surfactant. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more cationizable functional groups in the composition as disclosed.
[0141] Throughout the disclosure, the phrase "one of their combinations" (or "one of their mixtures") may be used after a list of elements, as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and one of their combinations." The phrase "one of their combinations" does not require that the combination include all of the elements A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of the elements A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a combination of any two or more of the elements A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the wording "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a combination of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."
[0142] The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions is not exhaustive.
[0143] Some of the compounds mentioned throughout the disclosure may be present in the form of a salt in the composition or may be added to the composition in the form of a salt (and dissociate in the composition). Thus, all compounds and quantities of compounds refer to both the salt form of the compound and the dissociated form of the compound. In other words, even if the phrase "one of its salts" is not specifically or expressly stated with respect to ingredients that may form salts or are available as salts, it is understood that the salt form of the compound is included.
[0144] The expression "included" for a range of concentrations means that the limits of that range are included in the defined interval.
[0145] The term "INCI" is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe the ingredients of personal care products.
[0146] All components and elements presented positively in this statement may be excluded negatively from the disclosure. In other words, the compositions of this disclosure may be free or substantially free of all the components and elements cited positively throughout the present disclosure.
[0147] Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and where the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound or ingredient does not represent more than one component.
[0148] PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A RINSE-ON HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION
[0149] The rinse-out hair care composition of the present invention can be manufactured using conventional cosmetic processes. An illustrative process includes the following steps:
[0150] Step (1): in a container, add 30% to 70% water and at least one organic acid, and mix for about 10 minutes at room temperature;
[0151] Step (2): Addition of at least one amino acid, mixing of ingredients until completely solubilized;
[0152] Step (3): addition of the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group, at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof, and at least one surfactant selected from cationic, non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof;
[0153] Step (4): heating the mixture to about 60 °C to about 75 °C for about 15 minutes.
[0154] Step (5): Adding the remaining water to the mixture and cooling.
[0155] Step (6): Adding additional ingredients (if applicable), cooling Up to approximately 25°C, pH correction (if necessary) using a pH adjuster. PROCEDURES
[0156] An example of a suitable rinse-off cosmetic hair composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0157] In a preferred embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises: a. from 0.1% to 25.0%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one organic acid selected from short-chain α-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids and one of their mixtures, in particular at least one organic acid is selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid and their mixtures; a. from 0.1% to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group selected from polyols, in particular the polyol is a glycol selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and mixtures thereof; b. from 0.1% to 7.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one amino acid chosen from arginine and glycine, in particular the amino acid is arginine; c. from 0.1% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty compound including:
[0158] (i) plant resins selected from the resin Copaiba officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) (oily resin or in resin form), Candeia resin, breu branco resin and mixtures thereof; and / or
[0159] (ii) vegetable oils selected from coconut oil, soybean germ oil (soybean oil) and mixtures thereof; and / or
[0160] (iii) vegetable waxes selected from Candelilla wax, Camauba wax, beeswax and mixtures thereof; a. from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one ester selected from cetyl esters, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl palmitate and mixtures thereof; b. from 0.05% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one surfactant chosen from cationic, non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; c. of water.
[0161] In a preferred embodiment, the rinse-off hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises: a. from 0.1% to 25.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one organic acid selected from the group consisting of tartaric acid, lactic acid and their mixtures; a. from 0.1% to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and mixtures thereof; b. from 0.1% to 7.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one amino acid selected from arginine; c. from 0.1% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty compound selected from coconut oil, Copaiba officinalis resin (Balsam Copaiba) and their mixtures; d. from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of minus one ester chosen from among cetyl esters and dicaprylyl carbonate; e. from 0.05% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one surfactant selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof; f. of water. EXAMPLES
[0162] By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples. Inventive Examples A to I
[0163] Suitable rinse-off cosmetic hair compositions (Inventive Examples A to D) according to the present invention are shown in Table 1 below: Function / Type Ingredient Ex. Inv. A Ex. Inv. B Ex. Inv. C Ex. Inv. D Ex. Inv. E Amino acid Arginine 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Surfactant (anionic) Coco-betaine 1.0 1.0 Surfactant (anionic) Sodium laureth sulfate 12.0 12.0 12.0 Surfactant (anionic) Sodium lauryl sulfate 20.0 20.0 20.0 Non-aqueous solvent Hexylene glycol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Preservative Phenoxyethanol 0.6 0.6 Non-aqueous solvent Propylene glycol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Conditioning / thickening agent Hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride 0.25 0.25 0.25 Ester Cetyl esters 1.5 1.5 Ester Dicaprylyl carbonate 1.5 1.5 Perfume 1.0 1.0 Surfactant (non-ionic) Cocamide MEA 1.0 1.0 1.0 Surfactant (non-ionic) Cetearyl Alcohol 6.5 6.5 Organic Acid Salicylic Acid 0.25 0.25 0.25 Organic Acid Tartaric Acid 1.5 1.5 Organic Acid Lactic Acid 0.5 0.5 Pearlizing Agent Glycol Distearate 1.5 1.5 pH Adjuster Triethanolamine 0.8 0.8 Pigment Ext. Violet 2 0.3 Preservative Sodium Benzoate 0.5 0.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 Silicone Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 Stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3 1.5 1.5 Solvent Water QSQSQSQSQS Stabilizing Agent Carbomer 0.25 0.25 0.25 Surfactant (cationic) Behentrimonium Chloride 3.5 3.5 Surfactant (amphoteric) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10.0 10.0 10.0 Vegetable Oil Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Vegetable Resin Resin Copaiferaofficin alis (Balsam Copaiba) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
[0165] TABLE 1
[0166] Suitable rinse-off cosmetic hair compositions (Inventive Examples E to I) according to the present invention are shown in Table 2 below: Function / Type Ingredient Ex. Inv. F Ex. Inv. G Ex. Inv. H Ex. Inv.I Active ingredient Sodium hydroxide 1.0 1.0 Active ingredient Panthenol 1.5 1.5 Amino acid Arginine 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Surfactant (anionic) Coco-betaine 0.5 0.5 1.0 Surfactant (anionic) Sodium laureth sulfate 12.0 12.0 Surfactant (anionic) Sodium cocoyl isethionate 12.0 12.0 Surfactant (anionic) Sodium lauryl sulfate 20.0 20.0 Chelating agent Sodium phytate 0.50 0.50 Solvent Non-aqueous Hexylene glycol 0.50 0.50 Solvent Non-aqueous Propylene glycol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Solvent Non-aqueous Propylene glycol oleate (and) Propylene glycol PEG-55 1.5 1.5 Conditioning / thickening agent Guar chloride hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.25 0.25 Emollient / Vegetable oil Coco-caprylate / caprate 0.25 0.25 Fatty alcohol PPG-5-ceteth-20 1.0 1.0 Film-forming agent Polyquaternium-67 0.5 0.5 Non-aqueous solvent Glycerin 1.0 1.0 Surfactant (non-cocamide MEA) 1.0 1.0 Ionic) Surfactant (non-ionic) Decyl glucoside 25.0 25.0 Organic acid Salicylic acid 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Organic acid Tartaric acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Organic acid Lactic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Organic acid Citric acid 1.5 1.5 Pearlizing agent Glycol distearate 0.25 0.25 0.25 Pigment Ext. Violet 2 0.3 Silicone Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-6 (and) cetrimonium chloride 0.5 Silicone Acrylates / Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer 0.3 Preservative Sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 1.0 1.0 Silicone Dimethicone 1.0 Silicone Dimethicone (and) amodimethicone (and) trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) steareth-6 (and) trideceth-3 1.5 Solvent Water QSQSQSQS Stabilizing agent Carbomer 0.25 0.5 0.5 0.25 Surfactant (amphoteric) Cocamidopropyl betaine 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 Vegetable oil Cocos nucifera oil (coconut) 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Vegetable resin Copaifera officinalis resin (Copaiba Balsam) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
[0168] TABLE 2
[0169] Suitable hair cosmetic compositions according to the prior art are such that in the Examples 1 to 7, as follows Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Sodium Hydroxide 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Panthenol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Arginine 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Coco-betaine 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 12.0 12.0 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 14.0 14.0 14.0 14.0 14.0 Sodium Phytate 0.5 0.5 Hexylene Glycol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Propylene glycol 1.5 Propylene glycol oleate (and) propylene glycol PEG-55 1.5 1.5 Guar chloride hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Coco-caprylate / caprate 0.5 0.5 PPG-5-ceteth-20 1.0 1.0 Polyquatemium-67 0.5 0.5 Glycerin 1.0 1.0 Cocamide MEA 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Decyl glucoside 25.0 25.0 Salicylic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Tartaric acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Lactic acid 0.5 Citric acid 1.5 1.5 Glycol distearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Ext. Violet 2 0.25 Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-6 (and) cetrimonium chloride 0.5 Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer 0.3 Sodium Benzoate 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Dimethicone 1.0 Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 Stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3 1.5 1.5 1.5 Water QSQSQSQSQSQSQS Carbomer 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.5 0.6 0.3 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 4.5 Copaifera Resin officinalis (balsam opafba) 0.3
[0171] The pH of the formulation examples of the invention ranged from about 4 to about 7. It was also found that the presence of esters in the formulation examples of the invention and / or vegetable waxes improved the spreading ability of the formulas during application of the formulations to the hair. IN VITRO TESTS AND RESULTS Test methodology
[0172] The technology of the present invention delivers long-lasting, frizz-free definition because its active ingredients penetrate the hair shaft, creating new bonds that make the hair more resistant to daily stress for longer. Thus, the inventors have achieved superior definition and frizz control compared to standard shampoos on the market, since the active ingredients can penetrate the hair shaft quickly.
[0173] When the shampoo has silicone, the performance on these attributes is improved in terms of volume and frizz control due to the greater deposition of active ingredients on the surface of the hair, while the basic ingredients of the technology penetrate.
[0174] The conditions of the present test are as follows: • all the formulas of the present invention have been applied in the form of a rinse-off shampoo; • The definition measurement was made using imaging data. The higher the value The higher the number, the better the result; • The measurement data for volume and frizz control were generated by a trained panel. The score ranges from 1 to 4 in increments of 0.5, where 4 is the highest score (best value); • In the context of Definition, the data includes the following subheadings: • T24 means that the data was taken 24 hours after the application; • TAT means that the data was taken in the same wick as T24, but after being touched to break the rigid effect; • TAP means that the TAT wick is combined and a measurement is taken.
[0175] Test 1 - In vitro tests of volume and frizz definition and control on hair strands - Shampoo with silicone and pearlescent agent
[0176] The inventive formula of Ex. C is inferior to the inventive formula of Ex. A in terms of the definition of the immediate loops (T24). With regard to the durable definition (TAT and TAP), there is a tendency towards the superiority of the inventive formula of Ex. A.
[0177] The difference between the formulas of Ex. A and Ex. C is the addition of the basic ingredients of the technology in Ex. C, which allows for an improvement in the definition as a whole.
[0178] The two formulas of Inventive Ex. A and Inventive Ex. C were also compared to Ex. 1. This comparison shows that the formulation of Inventive Ex. A is applied as a rinse-off product and has similar performance to the shampoo composition of Ex. C in frizz control and lasting definition (TAT and TAP) while maintaining superiority in immediate definition (T24).
[0179] Therefore, the formulation of the inventive Ex. A as a rinse-off product presents improved results, in addition to its active ingredients themselves, since the formulation of the inventive Ex. A shows a tendency towards superiority when used as a rinse-off product used as a shampoo.
[0180] These results can be verified in Figures IA and IB.
[0181] Test 2 - In vitro tests of volume and frizz definition and control on hair strands - Shampoo with silicone without pearlescent agent
[0182] When silicone is added to the standard composition of Ex. 2, the immediate definition (T24) and the durable definition (TAP) are similar to the formula of inventive Ex. A.
[0183] On the other hand, when the basic ingredients of Inventive Ex. A were added to the composition of Ex. D, the results obtained were similar to those of Inventive Ex. A, and superior in terms of durable definition TAP as a formula of Ex. A.
[0184] These results can be verified in Figures 2A and 2B.
[0185] Test 3 - In vitro tests of volume and frizz definition and control on hair strands - Silicone-free shampoo with pearlescent agent
[0186] The inventive formula of Ex. A obtained the best definition results compared to Ex. 3 and inventive Ex. E in terms of immediate loop definition (T24) and durable definition (TAT and TAP).
[0187] In addition, the inventive formula of Ex. A obtained the best results in controlling volume and frizz compared to Ex. 3 and Ex. E.
[0188] Therefore, the formulation of the inventive Ex. A as a rinse-off product presents improved results, in addition to its active ingredients themselves, since the formulation of the inventive Ex. A shows a tendency towards superiority when used as a rinse-off product used as a shampoo.
[0189] These results can be verified in Figures 3A and 3B.
[0190] Test 4 - In vitro tests of volume and frizz definition and control on hair strands - Silicone-free shampoo without pearlescent agent
[0191] The inventive formula of Ex. A obtained the best definition results compared to Ex. 4 and Ex. F in terms of immediate loop definition (T24) and durable definition (TAT).
[0192] With regard to volume and frizz control, the inventive formula of Ex. A obtained the best definition results compared to Ex. 4 and Ex. F in terms of immediate curl definition (T24) and lasting definition (TAT and TAP) as well.
[0193] Therefore, the formulation of Inventive Ex. A as a rinse-off product presents improved results, in addition to its active ingredients themselves, since the formulation of Inventive Ex. A shows a tendency towards superiority when used as a rinse-off product used as a shampoo.
[0194] These results can be verified in Figures 4A and 4B.
[0195] Test 5 - In vitro tests of definition, volume control & frizz control on hair strands - Sulfate-free shampoo with silicone
[0196] The inventive formula of Ex. A obtained the best definition results compared to Ex. 5 and Ex. G in terms of immediate loop definition (T24) and durable definition (TAT).
[0197] In addition, the inventive formula of Ex. A obtained the best results in definition compared to Ex. 5 and Ex. G in terms of volume and frizz control.
[0198] These results can be verified in Figures 5A and 5B.
[0199] Test 6 - In vitro tests for defining and controlling volume and frizz on hair strands - Sulfate-free, silicone-free shampoo
[0200] The formula of inventive Ex. A applied as a rinse-off product used as shampoo had superior results in controlling volume and frizz compared to the Ex. 6 formula, which does not contain the active ingredients of the Ex. A formula.
[0201] By comparing the formula of inventive Ex. H, identical to Ex. 6 but with the basic active ingredients of the formula of Ex. A, it is possible to demonstrate the improvement in volume and frizz control results compared to Ex. 6.
[0202] These results can be verified in Figures 6A and 6B.
[0203] Test 7 - In vitro tests for defining and controlling volume & frizz on Hair extensions - Shampoo with pigment
[0204] With regard to the pigmented product used as shampoo, the inventive formula of Ex. B obtained the best results in curl definition on T24, TAT and TAP.
[0205] For volume and frizz, the inventive formula of Ex. B had superiority in volume control compared to the shampoo composition without the active ingredients of the technology, such as Ex. 7. However, when key ingredients of the inventive formula of Ex. B are added to the shampoo composition of Ex. I, an improvement in volume and frizz control is obtained.
[0206] These results can be verified in Figures 7A and 7B.
Claims
Claims
1. A rinse-out hair cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (g) water.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the organic acid is chosen from short-chain α-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids and a mixture thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one organic acid is between 0.1% and 25.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably wherein the at least one organic acid is chosen from tartaric acid, lactic acid, glutaric acid, etidronic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group is chosen from polyols, C2 to C6 monoalcohols and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group is between 0.1% and 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably wherein the polyol is chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to claim 1, in which the at least one amino acid is chosen from arginine, glycine and their mixtures, in which the quantity of the at least one amino acid is between 0.1% and 7.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in which the at least one amino acid is arginine.
5. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty compound includes: (i) plant resins selected from Copaiba officinalis resin
6. (Balsam Copaiba) (in the form of oily resin or resin), Candeia resin, breu branco resin and their mixtures; (ii) vegetable oils selected from coconut oil, soybean oil (soybean oil) and mixtures thereof; (iii) vegetable waxes chosen from Candelilla wax, Camauba wax, beeswax and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one fatty compound is between 0.1% and 14.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one surfactant includes: (a) the at least one cationic surfactant is a quaternary ammonium salt selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, and / or the at least one cationic surfactant is a cationizable amino-amide surfactant selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl-diethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldi-methylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one cationic surfactant is between 0.1% and 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or (b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from at least one fatty alcohol selected from cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, an alkoxylated alcohol, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one fatty alcohol is between 0.1% and 12.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or (c) at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from coco-betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one amphoteric surfactant is between 1.0% and 12.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or (d) at least one surfactant includes at least one anionic surfactant selected from sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of the at least one amphoteric surfactant is between 0.5% and 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one ester chosen from isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl esters and mixtures thereof, in which the amount of the at least one ester is between 0.5% and 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising cosmetically acceptable ingredients chosen from perfumes / fragrances, preservatives, vitamins, plant extracts, pH correctors, pearlescent agents, silicones, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
9. A method for treating hair and / or for imparting lasting definition to curly hair comprising the steps of: (1) contacting the hair with a rinse-out hair cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound selected from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (g) water, and (2) rinsing the hair cosmetic composition from the hair, with or without a leave-in time.
10. Use of a composition comprising: (a) at least one organic acid; (b) a non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one compound with at least one hydroxyl group; (c) at least one amino acid; (d) at least one fatty compound chosen from vegetable oils, vegetable resins, vegetable waxes and their mixtures; (e) at least one ester; (f) at least one surfactant selected from cationic, non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (g) water, and for the manufacture of a rinse-out hair care product for providing improved curl definition, preferably wherein the rinse-out hair care product is a shampoo or is used as a shampoo.
Citation Information
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