Composition comprising a particular carboxylic acid or one of its salts, a (bi)carbonate in a particular amount, an additional alkaline agent, a fat and a color.
A composition combining polycarboxylic acid, (bi)carbonate, alkaline agent, and dye addresses issues of dyeing power and selectivity in hair coloring, providing intense, homogeneous, and persistent color with improved sensory performance and environmental sustainability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023006943
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-06-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-03
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-06-30
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring technologies face issues with unsatisfactory dyeing power, selectivity, and tenacity, particularly in the face of external agents like light and shampoos, and lack environmental sustainability, while consumers seek natural and effective coloring products.
A composition comprising polycarboxylic acid, (bi)carbonate, an additional alkaline agent, fatty substance, and dye, which provides intense, homogeneous coloration with improved persistence and sensory performance, using a combination of polycarboxylic acid of formula (I), (bi)carbonate, alkaline agent, fatty substance, and dye, optimized for keratin fibers.
The composition achieves powerful, intense, and non-selective coloration with improved persistence and sensory performance, maintaining fiber integrity and reducing environmental impact.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising a particular carboxylic acid or one of its salts, a (bi)carbonate in a particular content, an additional alkaline agent, a fatty substance and a colorant.
[0001] The invention relates to a composition comprising a particular carboxylic acid or one of its salts, at least one (bi)carbonate in a particular content, at least one additional alkaline agent, at least one fatty substance and at least one colorant.
[0002] The invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, using this composition.
[0003] The invention finally relates to the use of such a composition for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.
[0004] For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their gray hair.
[0005] In the field of coloring hair keratin fibers, in particular human hair, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers by different techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or dye precursors for permanent colorings.
[0006] There are basically three types of hair coloring process: (a) so-called permanent coloring, the function of which is to bring about a significant change in the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation; b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not involve the oxidative condensation process and is resistant to 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing keratin fibers with dye compositions containing direct dyes; c) temporary coloring which results in a change in the natural color of the hair which lasts from one shampoo to the next and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “makeup” process.
[0007] It is thus known to dye keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colorations with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines. These bases Oxidation compounds are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds through a process of oxidative condensation.
[0008] It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules used in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained.
[0009] However, the implementation of these dye compositions can present a certain number of drawbacks.
[0010] Indeed, after application to keratin fibers, the tinctorial power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or even weak, and lead to a restricted range of colors.
[0011] The colorations may also not be sufficiently tenacious against external agents such as light, shampoos, perspiration and may also be too selective, that is to say that the difference in coloration is too great along the same keratin fiber which is differently sensitized between its tip and its root.
[0012] Consumers are also looking for more environmentally friendly coloring products, particularly those based on ingredients of natural origin, and which have good qualities of use, are easy to use and lead to good tinctorial properties.
[0013] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.
[0014] It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that can respond to these environmental challenges.
[0015] Thus, there is a real need to provide a coloring composition for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which is more environmentally friendly and which is capable of leading to good color buildup, intensity and chromaticity, while having low selectivity and good tenacity, in particular good persistence to shampooing, and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, even after a storage period, while having good usage qualities and retaining good sensory performance, in particular in terms of shine, softness, suppleness, smoothing, and disentangling of keratin fibers such as hair.
[0016] These and other aims are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a composition comprising: 1) at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates:
[0017] RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2 -COOH; and Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R 2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic group having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; 2) at least one (bi)carbonate, the total (bi)carbonate content being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; 3) at least one additional alkaline agent; 4) at least one fatty substance; and 5) at least one colorant.
[0018] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.
[0019] The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to produce powerful, intense and non-selective chromatic colorations, that is to say colorations which are homogeneous along the fiber.
[0020] The composition according to the invention has improved persistence to shampoos, as well as good stability over time, in particular little change, or even no change, in its viscosity during storage.
[0021] The composition according to the invention has good qualities of use, in particular in terms of texture, ease of application, adhesion to the hair, and lengthening.
[0022] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to achieve good cosmeticity, particularly in terms of shine, softness, suppleness, a more natural feel, while preserving the integrity of the fiber.
[0023] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to provide cosmetic compositions for keratin fibers which do not have a strong ammonia odor.
[0024] The invention also relates to a process for coloring hair using the composition of the invention.
[0025] The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition as defined above and in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0026] By “chemical oxidizing agent” according to the invention, we mean an oxidizing agent other than oxygen in the air.
[0027] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
[0028] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0029] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”. Special polycarboxylic acid
[0030] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates 1):
[0031] RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2 -COOH; and Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic group having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0032] More precisely, the carboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to: - compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when R i represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; - compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, when RI represents the group -CH(CH3)-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ri represents a group -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and - compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, when RI represents the group -CH2CH2OH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0033] Preferably, Ri represents the group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0034] The carboxylic acids of formula (I) may be in the form of pure enantiomers, preferably of L configuration or in the form of mixtures, in particular racemic mixtures.
[0035] The salts of the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are preferably chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, their ammonium and substituted ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.
[0036] Examples of alkali metal salts that may be mentioned include sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+) salts, while examples of alkaline earth metal salts that may be mentioned include calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mgn) salts.
[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "transition metal" means a metal comprising an incomplete sub-layer; more particularly in oxidation state II, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+).
[0038] As regards organic amine salts, mention may be made of primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts, or alkanolamine salts. Said amines have one or more radicals, identical or not, of alkyl type, linear or branched in C1 to C20, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen.
[0039] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts.
[0040] Preferably, said carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) used in the context of the present invention are chosen from methyl-glycine diacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N',N'-triacetic ethylenediamine acid, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures, and more preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their amine salts organics, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures.
[0041] Better still, the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures.
[0042] Preferably, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) used according to the present invention is chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its alkali metal salts, their optical isomers, and / or their geometric isomers, preferentially from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-glutamate, their optical isomers, and / or their geometric isomers, better still from N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid and / or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate).
[0043] Preferably, the compound with the name Tetrasodium Glutamate diacetate (INCI name) will be used, such as Dissolvine GL38 or 47S marketed by the company Akzo Nobel.
[0044] According to this embodiment, the total content of the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates as defined above, ranges from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] According to a particular embodiment, the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) is or are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid and / or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate which may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (Bi)carbonate
[0046] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one (bi)carbonate, the total content of (bi)carbonate 2) being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] By “(bi)carbonate” is meant carbonate, carbonate-generating system, bicarbonate, bicarbonate-generating system and mixtures thereof.
[0048] By "carbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates carbonate in situ such as for example carbon dioxide in water or percarbonate in water.
[0049] By "bicarbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates bicarbonate in situ such as for example from carbon dioxide in water or by buffering a carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.
[0050] The (bi)carbonate(s) is / are preferably chosen from:
[0051] - the carbonate(s), preferably chosen from:
[0052] a) carbonates of alkali metal (Met2+, CO32), alkaline earth metal (Met'2+, CO32), ammonium NH4+ or phosphonium (R”4P+)2,CO32 with Met' representing an alkaline earth metal and Met representing an alkali metal, and R”, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as hydroxyethyl; and mixtures thereof;
[0053] - the bicarbonate(s), preferably chosen:
[0054] b) compounds of the following formulas: • R'+, HCO3 with R' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, a ammonium group NH4+ or a phosphonium group R”4P+- where R”, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as hydroxyethyl- and when R' represents a hydrogen atom the hydrogen carbonate is then called dihydrogen carbonate (CO2, H2O); and • Met'2+ (HCO3 )2 with Met' representing an alkaline earth metal;
[0055] and mixtures thereof.
[0056] More particularly, the (bi)carbonate(s) is / are chosen from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium (bi)carbonates; preferably alkali metal (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, more preferably alkali metal bicarbonates, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0057] By way of example, they are chosen from Na, K, Mg, Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof. Preferably the (bi)carbonate(s) is / are chosen from Na (bi)carbonate, K (bi)carbonate, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, preferably Na bicarbonate, K bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof, better still ammonium bicarbonate.
[0058] According to one embodiment, the compound(s) are chosen from bicarbonates, bicarbonate-generating systems and mixtures thereof, preferably from bicarbonates.
[0059] According to a preferred embodiment, the (bi)carbonate(s) is ammonium bicarbonate.
[0060] These bicarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, Badoit water which are known for their sodium bicarbonate or sodium bicarbonate content [144-55-8] = NaHCO3, and calcium bicarbonate = Ca(HCO3)2.
[0061] The (bi)carbonate(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1.8% to 5% by weight, better still from 2 to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0062] According to a preferred embodiment, the bicarbonate is ammonium bicarbonate which may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1.8% to 5% by weight, better still from 2 to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional alkaline agent
[0063] The composition according to the invention comprises one (or more) alkaline agent(s) 3) in addition to the (bi)carbonates.
[0064] Preferably, the additional alkaline agent(s) may be chosen from organic alkaline agents and inorganic alkaline agents.
[0065] Preferably, the organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and more preferably less than 10, even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise a fatty, alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.
[0066] The organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, in particular mono-, di- or tri-hydroxy(Cl-C6)alkylamines such as 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, monoethanolamine, oxyethyleneated and / or oxypropyleneated ethylenediamines, amino acids, polyamines and mixtures thereof.
[0067] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched alkyl groups, C1 to C8, carrying one or more hydroxy radicals.
[0068] Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane.
[0069] More particularly, the amino acids which can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.
[0070] As amino acids which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
[0071] Among the inorganic alkaline agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of ammonium hydroxide (also called aqueous ammonia), mineral hydroxides, silicates, metasilicates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates, and in particular, ammonium hydroxide, silicates or metasilicates of alkali metals, in particular sodium silicate and sodium metasilicate.
[0072] Among the mineral hydroxides, sodium hydroxide is preferred.
[0073] Preferably, the additional alkaline agent(s) is (or are) chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates and metasilicates, mineral hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen among ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and their mixtures, better chosen from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and their mixtures.
[0074] Even more preferably, the additional alkaline agent is ammonium hydroxide.
[0075] Advantageously, the total content of the additional alkaline agent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0076] Fatty substances The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances 4).
[0077] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane.
[0078] Advantageously, the fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0079] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.
[0080] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
[0081] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa). Solid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0082] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0083] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention are chosen among liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0084] It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0085] By way of example, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may be chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and preferably saturated. Mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (INCI name ore oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0087] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be chosen from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, we may cite the mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, more particularly Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC.
[0088] As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.
[0089] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and their mixtures.
[0090] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned are octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0092] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0093] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] It is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0095] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; trioctanoate glyceryl; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0096] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0097] Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
[0098] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0099] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0100] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.
[0101] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0102] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0103] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.
[0104] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, better still mixtures with the INCI name C15-19 Alkane.
[0105] According to one embodiment, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters and their mixtures, more preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, better still from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms. carbon, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms and their mixtures.
[0106] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, better still mixtures with the INCI name C15-19 Alkane.
[0107] The solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.
[0108] The solid fatty body(ies) are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.
[0110] These solid fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0111] The solid fatty acids that can be used in the present invention are in particular chosen among myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachydic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0112] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from stearic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0113] In a preferred embodiment, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty acids, the total content of the solid fatty acid(s) varies from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5%, preferentially from 0.1 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0114] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0115] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0116] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24. atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0117] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); ara-chidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0118] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0119] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0120] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0121] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0122] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.
[0123] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, including of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0124] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
[0125] Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0126] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
[0127] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.
[0128] As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0129] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by MICRO POWDERS.
[0130] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes and their mixtures, preferably vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax and more preferably candelilla wax (INCI name euphorbia cerifera wax).
[0131] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes and their mixtures.
[0132] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty substance(s) present in the composition is or are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferentially chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, better still from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms.
[0133] According to another preferred embodiment, the fatty substance(s) present in the composition is or are chosen from solid fatty substances, preferentially chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, solid fatty acids and their mixtures.
[0134] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, and at least one solid fatty substance, preferably at least one wax and / or at least one solid fatty alcohol.
[0135] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty substance other than solid fatty acids.
[0136] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one solid fatty acid and at least one fatty substance other than the solid fatty acids.
[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty substance(s) is (or are) chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, solid fatty acids, waxes and their mixtures, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols, mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, waxes, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof best chosen from C15-19 Alkane (INCI Name), cetearyl alcohol, waxes, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
[0138] Preferably, the total content of the fatty substance(s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 7 to 30% by weight, preferentially from 8 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0139] Preferably, the total content of the solid fatty substance(s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 6 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0140] In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, the total content of the hydrocarbon(s) comprising more than 6 carbon atoms preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Dye
[0141] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and their mixtures 5).
[0142] Preferably, the composition comprises one (or more) oxidation dye(s).
[0143] The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.
[0144] Oxidation base
[0145] The oxidation bases may be present as salts, solvates and / or salt solvates.
[0146] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0147] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0148] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts.
[0149] Among the para-phenylenediamines which may be mentioned, there are for example para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N ,N-diethy 1- 3 -methylaniline, N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-b-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(b-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(b-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(b,g-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(b-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the corresponding addition salts with an acid. ,
[0150] Among the above-mentioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-b-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.
[0151] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned, there are for example N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts.
[0152] Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(b-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.
[0153] Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts.
[0154] Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned are, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
[0155] Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds for example described in GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts.
[0156] Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples which may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, , 2-b-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts.
[0157] More particularly, the oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 by:
[0158] a) a (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group;
[0159] b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or
[0160] c) a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a b-hydroxyalkoxy group and the corresponding addition salts.
[0161] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0162] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FRA-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(b-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(b-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methyl-pyrazole and the corresponding addition salts. 4,5-diamino-l-(b-methoxyethyl)pyrazole can also be used.
[0163] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt.
[0164] Pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one. ,
[0165] 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt will preferably be used.
[0166] 4,5-diamino-l-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or a corresponding salt will preferably be used as heterocyclic bases.
[0167] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.
[0168] When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, preferably, the oxidation base(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight. weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0169] Oxidation coupler
[0170] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those traditionally used in the coloring of keratin fibers.
[0171] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
[0172] Among these couplers, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts.
[0173] Examples that may be mentioned include 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-benzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(B-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1B-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, lN-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, lH-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and the corresponding mixtures.
[0174] In general, the addition salts of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0175] Furthermore, the solvates represent more particularly the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0176] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0177] When the composition comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0178] When present, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0179] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes, chosen from anionic and non-ionic species, preferably cationic or non-ionic species, either as sole dyes or in addition to the oxidation dye(s).
[0180] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
[0181] When present, the direct dye(s) represent more particularly 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0182] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition and, similarly, the ready-to-use composition contains at least one colorant and preferably at least one oxidation colorant as defined above. Additional surfactants
[0183] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one (or more) additional surfactant(s).
[0184] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one (or more) additional surfactant(s).
[0185] These can be chosen from anionic surfactants other than fatty acids, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and / or their mixtures.
[0186] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactants are non-ionic surfactants.
[0187] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following non-ionic surfactants: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, preferably oxyalkylenated, they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters; - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives; - aldobionamides; - amine oxides; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones; - and their mixtures.
[0188] The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.
[0189] The number of moles of ethylene and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better still from 2 to 50, even better still from 2 to 40; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, even better still from 1 to 10.
[0190] As an example of glycerolated non-ionic surfactants, C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, are preferably used.
[0191] As examples of compounds of this type, we can cite lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY-GLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.
[0192] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8 to C10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C10 to C12 alcohol with one mole of glycerol and the C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol.
[0193] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: - C8 to C40 alcohols, preferably C10-C32, more preferably C12-C28, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated or glycerolated, preferably oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated; - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units; - and their mixture.
[0194] According to a preferred embodiment, the additional surfactants are chosen from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably chosen from C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain.
[0195] Preferably, the additional surfactant(s) represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0196] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I), its optical isomers, its geometric isomers, its salts and / or its solvates; - at least one (bi)carbonate, the total content of (bi)carbonate(s) being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one additional alkaline agent; - at least one fatty substance; - at least one colorant, preferably at least one oxidation colorant; and - at least one additional surfactant, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably chosen from C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain. Solvents
[0197] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0198] As organic solvent, examples that may be mentioned are linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0199] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from polyols, more preferably chosen from propylene glycol, glycerol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof.
[0200] The organic solvent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even better still from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0201] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0202] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic ether(s) of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of the following formula (i):
[0203] R-(O-Alk)n-OR' (i),
[0204] in which: R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C10-C30 hydrocarbon radical, R' denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C10-C30 hydrocarbon radical which may be substituted by a hydroxyl radical, said hydroxyl radical preferably being located in the beta position of the ether function and n is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive Alk represents a (C1-C6) alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear such as ethylene or propylene, preferably ethylene.
[0205] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the Alk radical of formula (i) represents a group -CH2-CH2-
[0206] More particularly, the non-ionic polyoxyalkylene fatty alcohol ether of formula (i) is such that R and R', independently of one another, denote a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, hydrocarbon radical; in C12-C20, preferably in C14-C18; R' possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxyl radical, said hydroxyl radical preferably being located in the beta position of the ether function and n denotes an integer greater than or equal to 20, ranging for example from 20 to 100, preferably from 40 to 80.
[0207] Preferably R and R' denote an alkyl radical.
[0208] According to a more preferred embodiment, the non-ionic polyoxyalkylene fatty alcohol ether of formula (i) is such that: R denotes an alkyl radical, preferably linear, in C16-C18, and R' denotes an alkyl radical, preferably linear, in C14 substituted by an OH group, said hydroxyl radical being preferably located in the beta position of the ether function and n is equal to 60.
[0209] Preferably the non-ionic compound of formula (i) is of the following formula TOUCHA
[0210] with R being a cetyl or stearyl group with n = 60.
[0211] Such a compound is for example named in the CTFA Dictionary under the name CETEARETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL or HYDROGENATED TALLOWETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL. A CETEARETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL is for example sold by the company AKZO under the trade name ELFACOS GT 282 S.
[0212] When it(they) is(are) present, preferably, the non-ionic ether(s) of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol (i) is(are) present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.075 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives
[0213] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds previously described and among which may be mentioned cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, anti-oxidant agents, hydroxy acids, perfumes.
[0214] The above additives may generally be present in an amount of between 0 and 20% by weight for each of them, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.
[0215] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described below.
[0216] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a cationic polymer.
[0217] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more chemical oxidants as described below. According to this embodiment, the composition is a ready-to-use composition.
[0218] This ready-to-use composition may comprise one or more ingredients among those described previously.
[0219] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10.5.
[0220] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents. According to this embodiment, the composition is intended to be mixed with one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s).
[0221] Preferably, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 8 and 13, preferably between 9 and 12.
[0222] According to another particular embodiment, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 7 and 10 and the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 6 and 9. Process
[0223] The present invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, which comprises the application to said keratin fibers of an effective amount of a composition as defined above, in the presence of an oxidizing agent.
[0224] The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
[0225] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition described above which does not comprise a chemical oxidizing agent with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.
[0226] According to this embodiment, the ready-to-use composition is obtained from the mixture of at least two compositions: a composition comprising: - at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I), its optical isomers, its geometric isomers, its salts and / or its solvates 1); - at least one (bi)carbonate 2), the total content of (bi)carbonate(s) being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one additional alkaline agent 3); - at least one fatty substance 4); and - at least one dye 5), preferably at least one oxidation dye and an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0227] In a preferred embodiment, the method of coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: (a) a composition comprising: - at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I), its optical isomers, its geometric isomers, its salts and / or its solvates 1); - at least one (bi)carbonate 2), the total content of (bi)carbonate(s) being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one additional alkaline agent 3); - at least one fatty substance 4); and - at least one dye, preferably at least one oxidation dye 5); - at least one additional surfactant; b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
[0228] More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates and their mixtures. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide.
[0229] The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0230] It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight of the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
[0231] In addition, the oxidizing composition may comprise fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers.
[0232] Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7, preferably ranging from 1.5 to 4.
[0233] Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition. Kit
[0234] Another subject of the invention is a device with several compartments, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing the coloring composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above.
[0235] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by appropriate application means, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.
[0236] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.
[0237] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as described above for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.
[0238] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0239] In the following examples, all quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions
[0240] The coloring compositions A and B were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active material):
[0241] Coloring compositions
[0242]
[0243]
[0244]
[0245] [Tables 1] INCI NAME A (invention) B (comparative) AMMONIUM BICARBONATE 2.50 2.50 AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 3.29 3.29 NON-IONIC SURFACTANT 2.45 2.45 ANTIOXIDANT 1.00 1.00 SOLVENT 2.00 2.00 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0.24 - EDTA - 0.24 FATTY ACID(S)* 0.30 0.30 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.10 0.10 C15-19 ALKANE 2.00 2.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 16.00 16.00 CANDELILLA WAX 0.10 0.10 N,N-BIS(2-HYDROXYETHYL)-p- PHENYLENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0.16 0.16 HYDROXYETHYL-3,4-METHYL ENEDIOXYANILINE HCL 0.18 0.18 2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRIDIN E 0.04 0.04 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLIN E 0.43 0.43 TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE 0.53 0.53 WATER QS100 QS100 * INCI Name: STEARIC ACID At the time of use, each of the coloring compositions A and B is mixed with 1 time V2 its weight of oxidant O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to a lock of 90% white permed (BP) and moderately sensitized (SA20) hair at a rate of 5g of mixture / g of hair. After 35 minutes of application at 27°C, the hair is rinsed and washed with shampoo. standard and dried. Results
[0246] Colorimetric measurements were performed using a KONICA MINOLTA-3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0247] Color selectivity is the variation in color between permanently colored (BP) and moderately sensitized (SA20) colored hair. Selectivity allows the homogeneity of color to be assessed throughout the hair fiber.
[0248] Selectivity is measured by:
[0249] AE, which is the color variation between permed hair and moderately sensitized hair (SA20), is obtained from the formula:
[0250] Where L* represents the intensity a* and b*, the chromaticity of permed colored hair and Lo* represents the intensity and a0* and b0* the chromaticity of moderately sensitized colored hair. The lower the value of AE, the lower the selectivity and the more uniform the coloring along the hair. [0251 ] [T ableaux2] Hair type L* a* b* AE A+O (invention) BP 19.0 1.8 2.9 0.6 SA20 18.6 1.8 2.4 B+O (comparative) BP 20.3 2.0 3.5 3.1 SA20 17.7 1.8 1.7
[0252] The locks of hair treated with the A+O mixture according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative B+O mixture.
[0253] In other words, the A+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain locks of hair exhibiting better selectivity compared to those treated with the comparative B+O mixture.
[0254] Furthermore, the A+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good sensory performances.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition comprising: - at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which RI represents a hydrogen atom or a group - CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and R2 represents a CH2COOH group when RI represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when RI is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms - at least one (bi)carbonate 2), the total content of (bi)carbonate(s) being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one additional alkaline agent 3); - at least one fatty substance 4); and - at least one colorant 5).
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkali earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures, preferably chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-glutamate, their isomers, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and their mixtures, preferentially N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid and / or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, more preferentially tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (INCI name).
3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the total content of the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their salts and / or their solvates, ranges from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the (bi)carbonate(s) is (or are) chosen from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium (bi)carbonates, preferably alkali metal (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and their mixtures, more preferably chosen from Na, K, Mg, Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and their mixtures, better chosen from Na (bi)carbonate, K (bi)carbonate, ammonium (bi)carbonate and their mixtures, preferably Na bicarbonate, K bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and their mixtures, better still ammonium bicarbonate.
5. Composition according to any one of the claims in which the total content of the (bi)carbonate(s) ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1.8% to 5% by weight, better still from 2 to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the additional alkaline agent(s) is or are chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates and metasilicates, mineral hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, better chosen from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty substance(s) is (or are) chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, solid fatty acids, waxes and mixtures thereof, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols, mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, waxes, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof, better chosen from C15-19 Alkane (INCI Name), cetearyl alcohol, waxes, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
8. A composition according to any one of the claims wherein the total content of the fatty substance(s) ranges from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 7 to 30% by weight, preferentially from 8 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the dye(s) is (or are) chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and their mixtures, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, preferentially from oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one additional surfactant, the additional surfactant(s) preferably being chosen from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably chosen from C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain.
11. A composition according to any preceding claim, not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent.
12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
13. Process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of the composition as defined according to claim 12.
14. A method according to claim 13 comprising applying to the fibers the mixture: a) a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11. b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
15. A multi-compartment device, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
Citation Information
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