Composition comprising hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives, an anionic surfactant, an alkaline agent, a colorant, a solid fatty alcohol and a liquid fatty alcohol.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023006947
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-06-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-03
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-06-30
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives, an anionic surfactant, an alkaline agent, a colorant, a solid fatty alcohol and a liquid fatty alcohol.
[0001] The invention relates to a composition for treating hair comprising hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one alkaline agent, at least one colorant, at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol.
[0002] The invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, using this composition.
[0003] The invention finally relates to the use of such a composition for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.
[0004] For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their gray hair.
[0005] There are basically three types of hair coloring process:
[0006] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0007] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not involve the oxidative condensation process and is resistant to 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;
[0008] c) temporary coloring which results in a modification of the natural color of the hair which lasts from one shampoo to another and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “make-up” process.
[0009] It is thus known to dye keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colorations with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by an oxidative condensation process.
[0010] It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules used in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained.
[0011] However, the implementation of these dye compositions can present a certain number of drawbacks.
[0012] Indeed, after application to keratin fibers, the tinctorial power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or even weak, and lead to a restricted range of colors.
[0013] The colorations may also not be sufficiently tenacious against external agents such as light, shampoos, perspiration and may also be too selective, that is to say that the difference in coloration is too great along the same keratin fiber which is differently sensitized between its tip and its root.
[0014] Consumers are also looking for more environmentally friendly coloring products, particularly those based on ingredients of natural origin, and which have good qualities of use, are easy to use and lead to good tinctorial properties.
[0015] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.
[0016] It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that can respond to these environmental challenges.
[0017] Thus, there is a real need to provide a coloring composition for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which is more environmentally friendly, without degradation of the cosmetic properties, in particular which is capable of leading to good color build-up, intensity and chromaticity, while having low selectivity and good tenacity, in particular good persistence to shampooing and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, even after a storage period, while having good qualities of use and retaining good sensory performance, in particular in terms of shine, flexibility, smoothness, ease of combing such as disentangling and softness to the touch of keratin fibers such as hair.
[0018] These and other aims are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a composition comprising: - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; - at least one anionic surfactant; - at least one alkaline agent; - at least one colorant; - at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol, the total content of liquid fatty alcohol(s) and solid fatty alcohol(s) being greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0019] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.
[0020] The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to produce powerful, intense and non-selective chromatic colorations, i.e. colorations which are homogeneous along the fiber. It also makes it possible to achieve different shades in a very wide range of colors. In addition, it allows good color build-up.
[0021] This composition also makes it possible to cover depigmented keratin fibers, such as white hair, particularly well.
[0022] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has good qualities of use, in particular a creamy texture allowing rapid and easy mixing with an oxidizing composition where appropriate, easy and homogeneous distribution over the entire head of hair.
[0023] The composition according to the invention has improved persistence to shampoos as well as good stability over time, in particular little change, or even no change, in its viscosity during storage.
[0024] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to achieve good cosmeticity, particularly in terms of shine, softness, suppleness, a more natural and softer feel and easier combing, while preserving the integrity of the fiber.
[0025] The invention also relates to a process for coloring hair using the composition of the invention.
[0026] The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition as defined above and in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0027] By “chemical oxidizing agent” according to the invention, we mean an oxidizing agent other than oxygen in the air.
[0028] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
[0029] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0030] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”. Hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives
[0031] The composition according to the invention comprises hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives.
[0032] In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:
[0033] [Chem.l]
[0034] Hyaluronic acid belongs to the family of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).
[0035] GAGs are linear chains composed of the repetition of a basic diholoside always containing a hexosamine (glucosamine or galactosamine) and another ose (glucuronic acid, iduronic acid or galactose). Glucosamine is either N-sulfated or N-acetylated. In contrast, galactosamine is always N-acetylated. In addition, there may be sulfates O-linked to hexosamine, uronic acid and galactose.
[0036] It is a polysaccharide of disaccharides themselves composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine, linked together by alternating beta-1,4 and beta-1,3 glycosidic bonds.
[0037] According to a particular embodiment, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, having a molecular weight (MW) which can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of obtaining the hyaluronic acid and / or the preparation methods.
[0038] Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” includes all the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular included in the molecular weight range recalled above.
[0039] As hyaluronic acid derivatives, mention may in particular be made of hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid hydrolysates, quaternized hyaluronic acid derivatives and their salts and acetylated hyaluronic acid derivatives and their mixtures.
[0040] As hyaluronic acid salts, mention may in particular be made of potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate.
[0041] By quaternized hyaluronic acid derivatives is meant cationic hyaluronic acid comprising at least one quaternary ammonium and / or one of its salts.
[0042] As quaternized hyaluronic acid derivatives, the compound with the INCI name hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate will preferably be used.
[0043] As acetylated hyaluronic acid derivatives, mention may in particular be made, preferably, of the compound with the INCI name Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
[0044] Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives is preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid salts and their mixtures, and more preferably sodium hyaluronate.
[0045] Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.008 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, even better still from 0.02 to 0.1% relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of hyaluronic acid salts, preferably sodium hyaluronate, preferably varies from 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.003 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.008 to 1% by weight, even better still from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, even better still from 0.02 to 0.1% relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactant
[0047] The composition according to the present invention comprises one (or more) anionic surfactant(s).
[0048] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO.
[0049] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and acids polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids;fatty acid salts, and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.;
[0050] These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
[0051] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0052] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
[0053] As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.
[0054] Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0055] The anionic surfactants possibly present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.
[0056] As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
[0057] In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 EO) marketed, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.
[0058] The anionic surfactants present may be carboxylic acids comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, also called fatty acids, optionally in salified form.
[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty acid” means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0060] The carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms (or fatty acids) according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated; in particular, they are not (poly)oxyethylenated nor (poly)oxypropylenated.
[0061] They preferably have the structure R-COOH in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, in C7-C29, preferably in C9-C23, better in C9-C17.
[0062] Preferably, the fatty acid according to the invention is chosen from linear fatty acids, better still from unsaturated linear fatty acids, in C10-C22, in particular in C10-C18 (R is a linear alkenyl in C9-C23, or even in C9-C17).
[0063] According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic surfactants are (or are) chosen from fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from linear fatty acids, even better still from unsaturated linear fatty acids, C10-C22, in particular C10-C18, and mixtures thereof such as oleic acid.
[0064] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, fatty acids are preferably used. Mention may in particular be made of oleic, linoleic, linolenic, undecylenic acids and their mixtures. More preferably, oleic acid will be used.
[0065] The total content of the anionic surfactant(s) in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.8 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0066] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of fatty acid, preferably oleic acid, preferably varies from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.8 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkaline agent
[0067] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alkaline, mineral, organic or hybrid agent and their mixtures.
[0068] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” or “alkalizing agent” are used interchangeably.
[0069] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium (bi)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, better still ammonium bicarbonate.
[0070] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
[0071] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched CrC8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0072] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4.
[0073] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and mixtures thereof.
[0074] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, citrulline.
[0075] The organic amine can also be chosen from heterocyclic type organic amines.
[0076] As hybrid compounds, it is possible in particular to use guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.
[0077] The alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, (bi)carbonates such as Na, K, Mg, Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines and ammonia, better still from alkalonamines, even better still, monoethanolamine.
[0078] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonia.
[0079] The total content of the alkaline agent(s) preferably varies from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.08 to 15% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0080] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably monoethanolamine, preferably varies from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.08 to 15% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Dye
[0081] The composition according to the invention comprises one (or more) dye(s), preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and their mixtures.
[0082] Preferably, the composition comprises one (or more) oxidation dye(s).
[0083] The oxidation dyes can be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.
[0084] Oxidation base
[0085] The oxidation bases may be present as salts, solvates and / or salt solvates.
[0086] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0087] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0088] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts and mixtures thereof.
[0089] Among the para-phenylenediamines which may be mentioned, there are for example para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N ,N-diethy 1- 3 -methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- [3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine,N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,Y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, , 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0090] Among the above-mentioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0091] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned are, for example, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of salts and their mixtures.
[0092] Among the para-aminophenols which are mentioned, there are for example para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and the addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0093] Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0094] Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, there are for example pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
[0095] Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds for example described in GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0096] Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples which may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0097] More particularly, the oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 by: a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group; (b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more (Cl-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Cl-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (Cl-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group and the corresponding addition salts, solvated and solvated salts.
[0098] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0099] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts. 4,5-diamino-1-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole can also be used. ,
[0100] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated.
[0101] Pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-diliydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one their salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0102] 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated, will preferably be used.
[0103] 4,5-Diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated as heterocyclic bases will preferably be used.
[0104] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.
[0105] When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, preferably, the oxidation base(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0106] Oxidation coupler
[0107] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for coloring keratin fibers.
[0108] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
[0109] Among the couplers useful according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0110] Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(B-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, lH-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol,3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts and the corresponding mixtures.
[0111] In general, the addition salts of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0112] Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0113] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives such as 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0114] When the composition comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0115] When they are present, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes, chosen from anionic and non-ionic species, preferably cationic or non-ionic species, either as sole dyes or in addition to the oxidation dye(s).
[0117] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
[0118] When present, the direct dye(s) represent more particularly 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0119] When present, the total content of the colorant(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0120] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition and, similarly, the ready-to-use composition contains at least one colorant and preferably at least one oxidation colorant as defined above. Fatty substances
[0121] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol, the total content of liquid fatty alcohol(s) and solid fatty alcohol(s) being greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0122] Preferably, the total content of solid fatty alcohol(s) is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0123] By fatty alcohols according to the invention is meant compounds having at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0124] The fatty alcohols usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0125] Liquid fatty alcohol means a fatty alcohol having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) and solid fatty alcohol means a fatty alcohol having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0126] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0127] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0128] These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0129] Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, better still, the liquid fatty alcohol is oleyl alcohol.
[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of liquid fatty alcohol(s) preferably varies from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0132] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30, better still from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0133] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); ligno- ceryl (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0134] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures thereof, such as cetyl-stearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0135] According to another particular embodiment, the total content of solid fatty alcohol(s) is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably varies from 6 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 6.5 to 35% by weight, better still from 7 to 30% by weight, even better still from 7.5 to 25% by weight, or even from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] The total content of liquid fatty alcohol(s) and solid fatty alcohol(s) preferably varies from 6 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 6.5 to 35% by weight, better still from 7 to 30% by weight, even better still from 7.5 to 25% by weight, or even from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0137] The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than liquid fatty alcohols and solid fatty alcohols as defined above.
[0138] The additional fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) and solid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0139] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane.
[0140] The additional fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than solid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty alcohols which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0141] Preferably the additional fatty substances different from the fatty acids and different from the solid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty alcohols useful according to the invention are non-silicone.
[0142] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
[0143] More particularly, the additional liquid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids and other than liquid fatty alcohols may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides and mixtures thereof.
[0144] It is recalled that the esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0145] For example, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and preferably saturated. For example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0146] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 linear or branched carbon atoms, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0147] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be chosen from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, we may cite the mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, more particularly Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC.
[0148] As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.
[0149] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil (shea olein), and mixtures thereof.
[0150] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0151] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid is branched.
[0152] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0153] It is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0154] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene diisostearyl ... glycol; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0155] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described below.
[0156] Suitable sugars that may be mentioned include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
[0157] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0158] The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0159] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.
[0160] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0161] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0162] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.
[0163] Additional solid fatty bodies other than solid fatty alcohols have preferably a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.
[0164] The additional solid fatty body(ies) other than the solid fatty alcohols are preferably chosen from solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0165] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0166] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.
[0167] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0168] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.
[0169] Butters can also be used.
[0170] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also called "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting start temperature greater than 25°C and an end melting temperature less than 60°C.
[0171] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0172] We can cite more particularly shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkiï), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkiï), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Eatifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (As-trocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter sunflower butter.
[0173] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.
[0174] As is known, shea butter is extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is generally extracted and refined.
[0175] When they are present, the total content of the additional fatty substance(s) other than the fatty acids and other than the fatty alcohols as described above preferably varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and better still from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance derived from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0177] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances derived from shea, the total content of the fatty substance(s) derived from shea varies, preferably, from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and better still from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0178] Surfactants other than anionic surfactants
[0179] The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise one or more surfactants other than anionic surfactants.
[0180] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants other than anionic surfactants.
[0181] These can be chosen from non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and / or their mixtures.
[0182] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactants other than the anionic surfactants are non-ionic surfactants.
[0183] The non-ionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.
[0184] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, the following compounds may be mentioned, alone or in mixture: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethyl- lene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - derivatives of A-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine; - amine oxides.
[0185] They are chosen, in particular, from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.
[0186] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0187] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan can be chosen from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquii-sostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.
[0188] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids (preferably C12-C18) and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide may be chosen from esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), polyoxyethylene sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65), polyoxyethylene sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-85).
[0189] The polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular mono, di, tri, tetra esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid (preferably C12-C18) and of sorbitan, having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, of sorbitan, such as: - 20 EO polyoxyethylene ester of sorbitan and cocoic acid (PEG-20 Sorbitan Cocoate) - polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-5 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate such as the product marketed under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol), - polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and lauric acid (such as PEG-10 Sorbitan Laurate), - polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and oleic acid with 10 oxyethylenated groups (such as PEG-6 Sorbitan Oleate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate), - polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from 3 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and stearic acid (such as PEG-3 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-4 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-6 Sorbitan Stearate).
[0190] The surfactant(s) other than the anionic surfactants is or are preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 saturated or unsaturated ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, better still from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, even better still from alkylpolyglycosides such as coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside and steareth-100.
[0191] Preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the anionic surfactants and their mixtures represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Sequestrants
[0192] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.
[0193] The definition of a “sequestering agent” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a cycle including the metal ion).
[0194] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron donor atoms which allow the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0195] In the context of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.
[0196] The salts are in particular salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.
[0197] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.
[0198] More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.
[0199] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts.
[0200] When the composition comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening polymers
[0201] The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides.
[0202] By "polysaccharides" is meant polymers which contain at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferably, the polysaccharides of the invention contain between 20 and 100,000 monosaccharide units.
[0203] The anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise a cationic or cationizable group.
[0204] The anionic polysaccharides useful according to the invention may be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.
[0205] Anionic polysaccharides can be natural or synthetic.
[0206] According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from native gums such as: • exudates of trees or shrubs including: gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum ghatti (polymer of arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); gum karaya (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); • gums derived from algae such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); • microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid).
[0207] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “microbial gums” means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.
[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from anionic gums, better still, from anionic microbial gums, more preferably from xanthan gums.
[0209] When present, the total content of thickening polymers preferably varies from 0.005% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0210] When present, the total content of anionic polysaccharides as defined above preferably varies from 0.005% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0211] When the composition comprises them, the total content of anionic microbial gums as defined above preferably varies from 0.005% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Glycoprotein
[0212] The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one glycoprotein.
[0213] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a glycoprotein.
[0214] By "glycoprotein" is meant one or more oligosaccharides covalently linked to a polypeptide chain by the -OH function of Serine and Threonine residues (O-linked) or by the amide function of an Asparagine residue (N-linked).
[0215] By “oligosaccharides” we mean short polymers consisting of several monosaccharide units, identical or different, linked together by glycosidic bonds.
[0216] Preferably, the glycoproteins of the invention comprise from 1 to 70% by weight of oligosaccharides, more preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the glycoprotein.
[0217] According to a preferred embodiment, the glycoprotein(s) according to the invention is (or are) produced from a microorganism, more preferably extracted from a bacterium, even more preferably from a gram-negative bacterium.
[0218] Preferably, the glycoprotein according to the invention is obtained by culturing the bacterial strain Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica NF3.
[0219] For example, we can cite the compound known under the INCI name Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, sold under the trade name ANTARCTICINE® by the company Lipotec.
[0220] When the composition comprises one or more glycoprotein(s), the total content of the glycoprotein(s) preferably varies from 0.001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0221] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
[0222] - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; - at least one anionic surfactant, preferably chosen from fatty acids; - at least one alkaline agent; - at least one colorant, preferably chosen from oxidation colorants; - at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol, the total content of liquid fatty alcohol(s) and solid fatty alcohol(s) being greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one surfactant different from the anionic surfactants, preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 saturated or unsaturated ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, better still from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof. Solvents
[0223] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0224] As organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0225] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from polyols, more preferably chosen from glycerol, propane-1,3-diol and their mixtures.
[0226] The organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, better still from 2 to 20% by weight, even better still from 4 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0227] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives
[0228] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds previously described and among which may be mentioned cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures different from the thickening polymers as described previously, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes.
[0229] The above additives may generally be present in an amount of between 0 and 20% by weight for each of them, relative to the total weight of the com- ready-to-use position.
[0230] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents. The composition may be intended to be mixed with an oxidizing composition.
[0231] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a cationic polymer.
[0232] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more chemical oxidants as described below. According to this embodiment, the composition is a ready-to-use composition.
[0233] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10.5.
[0234] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents. According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably intended to be mixed with one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s).
[0235] Preferably, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 8 and 13, preferably between 9 and 12.
[0236] According to another particular embodiment, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 7 and 10 and the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 6 and 9. Process
[0237] The present invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, which comprises the application to said keratin fibers of an effective amount of a composition as defined above, in the presence of an oxidizing agent.
[0238] The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
[0239] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition described above which does not comprise a chemical oxidizing agent with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.
[0240] According to this preferred embodiment, at the time of use, the composition according to the invention is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions: a composition comprising: - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; - at least one anionic surfactant, preferably chosen from fatty acids; - at least one alkaline agent; - at least one colorant, preferably chosen from oxidation colorants; - at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol, the total content of liquid fatty alcohol(s) and solid fatty alcohol(s) being greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0241] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition according to the invention with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.
[0242] In a preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: a) a coloring composition comprising: - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; - at least one anionic surfactant, preferably chosen from fatty acids; - at least one alkaline agent; - at least one colorant, preferably at least one oxidation colorant; - at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol, the total content of liquid fatty alcohol(s) and solid fatty alcohol(s) being greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one surfactant different from anionic surfactants and (b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
[0243] More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates and their mixtures. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide.
[0244] The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0245] The oxidizing composition may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 0.01 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0246] The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
[0247] In addition, the oxidizing composition may comprise fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers.
[0248] Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7.
[0249] Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition. Kit
[0250] Another object of the invention is a device with several compartments, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing the coloring composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above.
[0251] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by appropriate application means, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.
[0252] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.
[0253] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as described above for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.
[0254] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0255] In the following examples, all quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions
[0256] The coloring compositions Al, Bl, A2, B2, A3, B3, A4, B4 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active material):
[0257] 1. Coloring compositions Al and Bl (example 1)
[0258] [Tables 1] Al (invention) Bl (comparative) OLEIC ACID 2.70 2.70 AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 4.57 4.57 ETHANOLAMINE 0.63 0.63 2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRIDIN E 0.04 0.04 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLIN E 0.30 0.30 ANTIOXIDANT 0.91 0.91 HYDROXYETHYL-P-PHENYLEN EDIAMINE SULFATE 0.13 0.13 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.05 0.05 EDTA 0.20 0.20 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 16.20 16.20 OLEYL ALCOHOL 2.70 2.70 NON-IONIC SURFACTANT 3.60 3.60 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.05 - HYDROXYETHYL-3,4-METHYL ENEDIOXYANILINE HCL 0.14 0.14 TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE 0.33 0.33 WATER Qs 100 Qs 100
[0259] At the time of use, each of the coloring compositions Al and Bl are mixed with 1 time U2 its weight of oxidant O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to a strand of 90% permed white (BP), natural white (BN) and / or moderately sensitized (SA20) hair at a rate of 5g of mixture / g of hair.
[0260] After 35 minutes of exposure at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried. Results
[0261] Colorimetric measurements were performed using a KONICA MINOLTA-3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system. Selectivity
[0262] Color selectivity is the variation in color between natural hair and permed hair. Natural hair is representative of the nature of the hair at the root while permed hair is representative of the nature of the hair at the tip. Selectivity allows the homogeneity of color to be assessed throughout the hair fiber.
[0263] Selectivity is measured by:
[0264] AE, which is the color variation between natural hair and permanent hair, is obtained from the formula:
[0265] Where L* represents the intensity a* and b*, the chromaticity of natural colored hair and Lo* represents the intensity and a0* and b0* the chromaticity of permed colored hair. The lower the value of AE, the lower the selectivity and the more uniform the coloring along the hair.
[0266] [Tables2] Hair type L* a* b* AE Al + O (invention) BN 27.6 2.2 9.5 4.5 BP 23.7 2.3 7.1 B1 + O (comparative) BN 26.5 3.0 10.0 7.7 BP 20.5 2.7 5.1
[0267] The locks of hair treated with the Al+O mixture according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative B l+O mixture. In other words, the Al+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain locks of hair having better selectivity compared to those treated with the comparative B l+O mixture and consequently improved color homogeneity from the root to the tip of the hair. Tenacity
[0268] The persistence of the color is evaluated in the same way. This is the difference in color AE (according to the formula above) between the colored strands (BN) before shampooing, then after having undergone 5 shampoos. The lower the value of AE, the more the color persists after shampooing.
[0269] [Tables3] Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE Al + O (invention) 0 27.6 2.2 9.5 0.9 5 28.3 2.5 9.1 B1 +O (comparative) 0 26.5 3.0 10.0 3.6 5 30.0 2.3 9.9
[0270] The locks of hair treated with the Al+O mixture according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative B1+0 mixture.
[0271] In other words, the Al+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous colored coating on the hair having improved persistence to shampoos compared to those treated with the comparative B l+O mixture. Ease of combing
[0272] The combing ease performance, i.e. detangling, was evaluated by 5 experts, on moderately sensitized hair (SA20). Each of the 5 experts rated each of the strands, awarding “5 points” to very good combing properties, “2.5 points” to moderately good combing properties and “0 points” to combing properties rated as poor.
[0273] To assess the ease of combing, the expert passes a comb over the lock first with the large teeth then with the small teeth, going down from the top of the lock towards the tips, in order to feel how easily the comb passes over the lock of hair.
[0274] Below are the scores awarded by the experts: Combing Al+O (Invention) B1 + O (Comparative) Expert 1 3.5 2 Expert 2 3.5 2.5 Expert 3 3.5 2.5 Expert 4 4 3 Expert 5 3 2.5 Average 3.5 2.5
[0276] 100% of the experts (5 out of 5) judged that the Al+O mixture according to the invention allowed to obtain better combability performance compared to the comparative B1+0 mixture not including sodium hyaluronate.
[0277] In addition, the Al+O mixture makes it possible to obtain good sensory performances.
[0278] 2. Coloring compositions A2 and B2 (example 2) A2 (invention) B2 (comparative) OLEIC ACID 2.70 2.70 AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 4.57 4.57 ETHANOLAMINE 0.63 0.63 2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRID INE 0.04 0.04 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLI NE 0.30 0.30 ANTIOXIDANT 0.91 0.91 HYDROXYETHYL-P-PHENYL ENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0.13 0.13 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.05 0.05 EDTA 0.20 0.20 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 5.00 3.00 OLEYL ALCOHOL 1.00 1.00 NON-IONIC SURFACTANT 3.60 3.60 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.05 0.05 HYDROXYETHYL-3,4-METH YLENEDIOXYANILINE HCL 0.14 0.14 TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE 0.33 0.33 WATER Qs 100 Qs 100
[0280] At the time of use, each of the coloring compositions A2 and B2 are mixed with 1 time Uz its weight of oxidant O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to a lock of natural white hair (BN) and moderately sensitized (SA20) at a rate of 5g of mixture / g of hair.
[0281] After 35 minutes of exposure at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried. Selectivity
[0282] The selectivity is then measured using AE, corresponding to the color variation between natural white hair (BN) and moderately sensitized (SA20) whose formula is described in example 1.
[0283] [Tableauxô] Hair type L* a* b* AE A2 + O (invention) BN 25.2 2.8 7.8 5.3 SA20 20.9 2.7 4.8 B2 + O (comparative) BN 29.6 2.0 9.8 9.7 SA20 21.6 2.7 4.4
[0284] The locks of hair treated with the mixture A2+O according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative mixture B2+O. In other words, the mixture A2+O according to the invention makes it possible to obtain locks of hair having better selectivity compared to those treated with the mixture B2+O and consequently improved color homogeneity from the root to the tip of the hair.
[0285] In addition, the A2+O mixture makes it possible to obtain good sensory performances.
[0286] Tenacity
[0287] The persistence of the color is evaluated in the same way. This is the difference in color AE (according to the formula above) between the colored strands before shampooing, then after undergoing 5 shampoos. The lower the AE value, the more the color persists after shampooing.
[0288] [Tables?] Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE A2 + O (invention) 0 21.4 2.3 5.1 0.7 5 21.7 2.4 5.7 B2 + O (comparative) 0 21.9 2.3 5.4 3.4 5 24.7 2.8 7.2
[0289] The locks of hair treated with the mixture A2+O according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative mixture B2+O.
[0290] In other words, the mixture A2+O according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous colored coating on the hair having improved persistence to shampoos compared to those treated with the comparative mixture B2+O. 3. Coloring compositions A3 and B3 (example 3) A3 (invention) B3 (comparative) THICKENER 0.2 0.2 OLEIC ACID 2.70 2.70 ETHANOLAMINE 6.25 6.25 COCO-GLUCOSIDE 1.87 1.87 SHEA OLEIN 4.0 4.0 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLI NE 0.15 0.15 SOLVENT 10.0 10.0 ANTIOXIDANT 0.96 0.96 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0.24 0.24 HYDROXYETHYL-P-PHENYL ENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0.08 0.08 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.15 0.15 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 5 3 OLEYL ALCOHOL 1 1 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.05 0.05 HYDROXYETHYL-3,4-METH YLENEDIOXYANILINE HCL 0.08 0.08 TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE 0.26 0.26 WATER Qs 100 Qs 100
[0292] At the time of use, each of the coloring compositions A3 and B3 is mixed with 1 time Vz its weight of oxidant O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to a lock of 90% permed white and natural white (BN) hair at a rate of 5g of mixture / g of hair.
[0293] After 35 minutes of exposure at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried.
[0294] Selectivity
[0295] The selectivity is then measured using AE, corresponding to the color variation between natural white hair (BN) and permed white hair (BP) whose formula is described in example 1. Hair type L* a* b* AE A3 + O (invention) BN 27.1 2.9 4.5 5.7 BP 21.7 1.8 2.9 B3 + O (comparative) BN 31.3 2.5 4.7 9.7 BP 21.6 2.0 4.2
[0297] The locks of hair treated with the A3+O mixture according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative B3+O mixture. In other words, the A3+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain locks of hair having better selectivity compared to those treated with the B3+O mixture and consequently improved color homogeneity from the root to the tip of the hair.
[0298] In addition, the A3+O mixture makes it possible to obtain good sensory performances.
[0299] Tenacity
[0300] The persistence of the color is evaluated in the same way. This is the difference in color AE (according to the formula above) between the colored strands (SA20) before shampooing, then after undergoing 5 shampoos. The lower the AE value, the more the color persists after shampooing.
[0301] [TableauxlO] Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE A3 + O (invention) 0 22.0 2.3 3.5 1.9 5 23.2 2.7 4.9 B3 + O (comparative) 0 19.8 2.8 3.7 4.8 5 24.4 2.8 5.1
[0302] The locks of hair treated with the A3+O mixture according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative B3+O mixture.
[0303] In other words, the A3+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous colored coating on the hair having improved persistence to shampoos compared to those treated with the comparative B3+O mixture.
[0304] 4. Coloring compositions A4 and B4 A4 (invention) B4 (comparative) THICKENER 0.2 0.2 OLEIC ACID 2.70 2.70 ETHANOLAMINE 6.25 6.25 COCO-GLUCOSIDE 1.87 1.87 SHEA OLEIN 4.0 4.0 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLI NE 0.15 0.15 SOLVENT 10.0 10.0 ANTIOXIDANT 0.96 0.96 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0.24 0.24 HYDROXYETHYL-P-PHENYL ENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0.08 0.08 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.15 0.15 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 16.30 16.30 OLEYL ALCOHOL 2.70 2.70 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.05 - HYDROXYETHYL-3,4-METH YLENEDIOXYANILINE HCL 0.08 0.08 TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE 0.26 0.26 WATER Qs 100 Qs 100
[0306] At the time of use, each of the coloring compositions A4 and B4 is mixed with 1 time Vz its weight of oxidant O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to a lock of hair BN and SA20 at a rate of 5g of mixture / g of hair.
[0307] After 35 minutes of exposure on a thermostatically controlled plate at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried.
[0308] Selectivity
[0309] The selectivity is then measured using AE, corresponding to the color variation between natural white hair (BN) and moderately sensitized (SA20) whose formula is described in example 1. Hair type L* a* b* AE A4 + O (invention) BN 36.7 1.2 9.1 9.4 SA20 27.8 3.7 10.8 B4 + O (comparative) BN 37.5 1.2 9.4 11.7 SA20 25.9 3.2 9.3
[0311] The locks of hair treated with the A4+O mixture according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative B4+O mixture. In other words, the A4+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain locks of hair having better selectivity compared to those treated with the B4+O mixture and consequently improved color homogeneity from the root to the tip of the hair.
[0312] In addition, the A4+O mixture makes it possible to obtain good sensory performances.
[0313] Tenacity
[0314] The persistence of the color is evaluated in the same way. This is the difference in color AE (according to the formula above) between the colored strands before shampooing, then after undergoing 5 shampoos. The lower the AE value, the more the color persists after shampooing.
[0315] [Tables 13] Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE A4 + O (invention) 0 27.8 3.7 10.8 1.3 5 29.0 4.0 10.9 B4 + O (comparative) 0 25.9 3.2 9.3 4.0 5 29.8 3.4 10.6
[0316] The locks of hair treated with the A4+O mixture according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative B4+O mixture.
[0317] In other words, the A4+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous colored coating on the hair having improved persistence to shampoos compared to those treated with the comparative B4+O mixture.
[0318] Combing and soft touch
[0319] The performance of ease of combing, i.e. detangling, and soft feel were evaluated by 5 experts, on moderately sensitized hair (SA20). Each One of the 5 experts rated each of the strands, awarding “5 points” for very good performance, “2.5 points” for average performance and “0 points” for poor performance.
[0320] Each expert's scores are then ranked to assign them a "rank". Rank 1 is assigned to the strand with the best performance in terms of ease of combing and softness of touch.
[0321] To assess the ease of combing, the expert passes a comb over the lock first with the large teeth then with the small teeth, going down from the top of the lock towards the tips, in order to feel how easily the comb passes over the lock of hair.
[0322] Below are the scores awarded by the experts:
[0323] [Tablesl4] Combing A4+O (Invention) B4+O (Comparative) Rank A4+O (invention) Rank B4+O (comparative) Expert 1 4.5 4 1 2 Expert 2 3.5 3 1 2 Expert 3 3.5 3 1 2 Expert 4 4.5 3.5 1 2 Expert 5 4 3.5 1 2 Average 4 3.4 ERan g s 5 10
[0324] 100% of the experts (5 out of 5) judged that the mixture A4+O according to the invention allowed to obtain better combability performance compared to the comparative B4+O mixture not including sodium hyaluronate.
[0325] To assess softness, the expert grasps the strand between the thumb and forefinger and slides his fingers along the strand from the top to the tips. He assesses whether the hair is soft, whether it has no roughness, that is, whether it does not catch the fingers. Soft Touch A4+O (Invention) B4+O (Comparative) Rank A4+O (invention) Rank B4+O (comparative) Expert 1 4 3.5 1 2 Expert 2 4 3.5 1 2 Expert 3 3.5 3 1 2 Expert 4 5 4 1 2 Expert 5 4 3.5 1 2 Average 4.1 3.5 ERan g s 5 10
[0327] 100% of the experts (5 out of 5) judged that the A4+O mixture according to the invention achieved better softness performance compared to the comparative B4+O blend not including sodium hyaluronate.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition comprising: - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; - at least one anionic surfactant; - at least one alkaline agent; - at least one colorant; - at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol, the total content of liquid fatty alcohol(s) and solid fatty alcohol(s) being greater than or equal to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the compound(s) chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures is (or are) chosen from hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid hydrolysates, quaternized hyaluronic acid derivatives and their salts and acetylated hyaluronic acid derivatives and their mixtures, preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid salts and their mixtures, more preferably sodium hyaluronate.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the compound(s) chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures ranges from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.008 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, even better still from 0.02 to 0.1% relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant(s) is (or are) chosen from fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from linear fatty acids, even better chosen from unsaturated linear fatty acids, C10-C22, in particular C10-C18, and mixtures thereof such as oleic acid.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.8 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the alkaline agent(s) is (or are) chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, (bi)carbonates such as Na, K, Mg, Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines and ammonia, better still from alkaline amines, even better still, monoethanolamine.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of alkaline agent varies from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.08 to 15% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the dye(s) is (or are) chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and their mixtures, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, preferentially chosen from oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the liquid fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferentially chosen from octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, better still, the liquid fatty alcohol is oleyl alcohol.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the solid fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30, better still from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of liquid fatty alcohol(s) and solid fatty alcohol(s) varies from 6 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 6.5 to 35% by weight, better still from 7 to 30% by weight, even better still from 7.5 to 25% by weight, or even from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of solid fatty alcohol(s) is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably varies from 6 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 6.5 to 35% by weight, better still from 7 to 30% by weight, even better still from 7.5 to 25% by weight, or even from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. A composition according to any preceding claim, not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent.
14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
15. Process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of the composition as defined according to claim 14.
16. A method according to claim 15 comprising applying to the fibers of the mixture: a) a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13. b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
17. Multi-compartment device, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
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