A bleaching agent in at least three parts comprising a black pigment, a peroxygenated salt, an oxidizing agent, and an alkaline agent.

The clarification agent for keratin fibers, comprising specific compositions of black pigments, peroxided salts, alkaline agents, and oxidative agents, addresses the issues of hair quality degradation and visual contrast in hair lightening, achieving effective and sustainable hair lightening with improved hair integrity.

FR3153527A1Pending Publication Date: 2025-04-04LOREAL SA
View PDF 9 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023010423
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-09-29
Publication Date
2025-04-04

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair lightening processes using alkaline agents and peroxided salts can lead to a decrease in hair quality, including reduced shine, mechanical strength, and increased porosity, resulting in brittle hair and unsatisfactory color results.

Method used

A clarification agent for keratin fibers comprising a first composition with black pigments, peroxided salts, and alkaline agents, a second composition with chemical oxidative agents, a third composition with additional alkaline agents, and optionally a fourth composition with direct dyes and fatty bodies, which minimizes visual contrast and preserves hair integrity.

Benefits of technology

The agent achieves significant hair lightening up to 9 tones while maintaining hair integrity, reducing visual contrast during the process, and providing good cosmetic and mechanical properties.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The present invention relates to a lightening agent in at least three parts comprising a black pigment, a peroxygenated salt, an oxidizing agent and an alkali agent. The present invention relates to a lightening agent for keratin fibers, and in particular for human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a first composition A comprising one or more black pigments, one or more peroxygenated salts, one or more alkali agents, preferably chosen from among silicate agents, a second composition B comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, a third composition C comprising one or more alkali agents and, optionally, a fourth composition D comprising one or more direct dyes and, optionally, one or more fats.The invention also relates to a method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibers the composition obtained from mixing the first with the second and third composition.
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

Title of the invention: A bleaching agent in at least three parts comprising a black pigment, a peroxygenated salt, an oxidizing agent, and an alkaline agent

[0001] The present invention relates to a keratin fiber lightening agent, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a first composition A comprising one or more black pigments, one or more peroxygenated salts, one or more alkaline agents, preferably chosen from silicates, a second composition B comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, a third composition C comprising one or more alkaline agents and, optionally, a fourth composition D comprising one or more direct dyes and, optionally, one or more fats.

[0002] The invention also relates to the process of lightening human keratin fibers using such an agent.

[0003] In the field of hair lightening, tone level is generally used to characterize the degree or level of lightening. The concept of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, with one tone separating each shade from the one immediately preceding or following it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to hairdressing professionals and are published in the book "Sciences des traitements cheveux" by Charles ZVIAK, 1988, Ed. Masson, pp. 215 and 278.

[0004] The tone heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.

[0005] Lightening thus makes it possible to bring a tone height lighter than the initial natural tone height of the hair.

[0006] The processes used to lighten hair generally consist of using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.

[0007] The role of this oxidizing agent is to degrade the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively slight lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When a greater lightening is desired, in particular a lightening of at least 5 shades, a different oxidizing agent is usually used. Currently, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates, are used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. These peroxygenated salts are contained in compositions which, at the time of use, are mixed with an aqueous composition including hydrogen peroxide.

[0008] In order to adjust the pH of the compositions to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent, an alkaline agent is used. This alkaline agent also causes swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent into the fiber, and thus increases the efficiency of the reaction.

[0009] However, the use of alkaline agents and peroxygenated salts is not without consequences and can lead to a deterioration in hair quality. The main causes of this deterioration are a decrease in cosmetic properties, such as shine, and a degradation of mechanical properties, particularly a reduction in mechanical resistance, which can also result in increased porosity. The hair is weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as blow-drying.

[0010] Furthermore, the consumer is often not entirely satisfied with the lightening result due to the significant visual contrast perceived between the color of the bleaching mixture on the hair, observed during the processing time, and the color of the bleached hair, which tends towards yellow. Indeed, the mixtures are generally blue, which neutralizes yellow, or white, which provides coverage, thus creating an expectation of white bleached hair.

[0011] Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to provide lightening agents for human keratin fibers such as hair that do not present the drawbacks mentioned above, that is to say, agents capable of producing very good lightening performance and good cosmetic properties, while preserving the mechanical properties of the hair as much as possible and offering very good performance qualities. Furthermore, the black pigments according to the invention minimize the deceptive effect that the consumer may experience by limiting the successive visual contrast between the grayish bleaching mixture and the final yellow-orange lightening result.

[0012] This objective and others are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a keratin fiber lightening agent comprising: a) a first composition A comprising: - one or more black pigment(s), preferably chosen from charcoal powder, black iron oxide and mixtures thereof; - one or more peroxygenated salt(s), - one or more alkali agents, preferably chosen from among the silicates, b) a second composition B comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s) other than peroxygenated salts, (c) a third composition C comprising one or more alkali agent(s), and, possibly d) a fourth composition D comprising one or more direct colorant(s) and possibly one or more fats.

[0013] According to a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is a lightening agent for human keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0014] The invention also relates to a lightening process implementing said lightening agent and the use of the agent for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

[0015] The invention also relates to a ready-to-use composition obtained by mixing the first composition A with the second composition B and the third composition C as defined below.

[0016] The invention also relates to the use of a composition obtained by mixing the first composition A with the second composition B and the third composition C as defined below, for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair

[0017] The lightening agent according to the invention leads to a significant level of hair lightening, up to 9 shades, while protecting the hair fiber so as to maintain good hair integrity, and while offering good performance qualities.

[0018] Due to the grey color of the bleaching mixture on the hair during the processing time, the successive visual contrast perceived with the final lightening result is reduced, thus generating little or no disappointment for the consumer.

[0019] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

[0020] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0021] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0022] The lightening agent according to the invention comprises a first composition A, a second composition B and a third composition C and optionally a fourth composition D. First composition A black pigments

[0023] The first composition A of the lightening agent comprises one or more black pigments.

[0024] The term "pigment" refers to a solid particle that is naturally insoluble in the hydrophilic and lipophilic liquid phases commonly used in cosmetics or rendered insoluble by formulation in the form of a lacquer, where applicable. More specifically, the pigment is slightly or not at all soluble in hydroalcoholic media.

[0025] By "pigment" is meant all pigments that impart color to keratinous materials. Their solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.

[0026] In particular, the black pigments according to the invention are insoluble in composition A.

[0027] Among the useful black pigments according to the invention, we can mention carbon black, graphite, fullerene, carbon nanotubes and / or megatubes, coal powder, soot, titanium black, black iron oxide.

[0028] Preferably, the black pigments are chosen from among the pigments mentioned above and their mixtures, more preferably from carbon black, charcoal powder, black iron oxide and their mixtures, better from charcoal powder, black iron oxide and their mixtures

[0029] Coal powder is generally produced by carrying out incomplete combustion of carbonaceous materials, such as pyrolysis, carbonization, at a temperature between 500 and 1200°C. The resulting product generally undergoes several additional treatments, such as one or more purification steps, usually by washing, drying(s), as well as one or more grinding and sieving steps.

[0030] Charcoal powder is more particularly of vegetable, animal or synthetic origin, preferably vegetable. Advantageously, charcoal powder is obtained from plants or plant waste, such as peat, bamboo, coconut, trees.

[0031] Examples of usable charcoal powders within the scope of the invention include compounds of the type Charcoal Powder (INCI name). However, preferably, the charcoal powder used in the invention is chosen from compounds with the INCI name Charcoal Powder.

[0032] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coal powder has an average particle size (expressed as average diameter in volume -D[0.5]) of between 100nm and 10 pm, preferably between 0.5 and 6 pm.

[0033] More specifically, the coal powder has a specific surface area (BET) of between 10 and 3000 m² / g, preferably between 20 and 200 m² / g. It is recalled that The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society," vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0034] Preferably, the total content of black pigment(s) present in the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, better from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

[0035] Preferably, the total content of charcoal powder(s) present in the first composition A of the brightening agent according to the invention ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, better from 0.075 to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

[0036] Preferably, the total content of black iron oxide(s) present in the first composition A of the bleaching agent according to the invention ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, better from 0.3 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A. Peroxygenated salts

[0037] The first composition A of the lightening agent comprises one or more peroxygenated salts.

[0038] Preferably, the peroxygenated salts are chosen from among persulfates; perborates; peracids and / or their salts; alkali metal, alkali-metal, or ammonium percarbonates; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

[0039] More preferably, the first composition A according to the present invention comprises at least one persulfate.

[0040] Persulfates, also called peroxysulfates, correspond, in the sense of the invention, to the anions SO52 (peroxomonosulfate anion) or S2O82 (peroxodisulfate anion) or to compounds comprising at least one of these anions.

[0041] Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from among the peroxodi-sulfates.

[0042] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the first composition A comprises at least one peroxygenated salt selected from the persulfates; preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, persulfate of potassium, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably among sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) present in the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention ranges from 10 to 80% by weight, preferably from 20 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 65% by weight, better from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

[0044] Preferably, the total content of persulfate(s) present in composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention ranges from 10 to 80% by weight, preferably from 20 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 65% by weight, better from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A. Alkaline agents

[0045] The first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention further comprises one or more alkaline agents distinct from the amino acids described below.

[0046] Among the useful alkaline agents according to the invention, we can mention, in particular, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, or ammonium, and silicates.

[0047] Preferably, the first composition A of the brightening agent according to the invention comprises one or more silicates.

[0048] By "silicate" we mean a salt of silicic acid.

[0049] The silicate(s) are preferably water-soluble.

[0050] By "water-soluble silicate" is meant a silicate which has a solubility in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight.

[0051] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates and mixtures thereof.

[0052] More preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates and mixtures thereof.

[0053] The silicate(s) may be chosen from among the metasilicates, preferably from sodium metasilicates, potassium metasilicates, calcium metasilicates and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Even more preferably, the silicate or silicates are chosen from among sodium silicates.

[0055] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate, Sodium Metasilicate and their mixtures.

[0056] The alkaline agent(s) are present in the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention preferably in a total content of 10 to 50% by weight, preferably 20% to 45% by weight, preferably 25 to 40% in weight, better from 27% to 35% in weight, even better from 29% to 32% in weight, compared to the total weight of the first composition A.

[0057] The silicate(s) are present in the first composition A of the brightening agent according to the invention preferably in a total content of 10 to 50% by weight, preferably 20% to 45% by weight, preferably 25 to 40% by weight, better 27% to 35% by weight, even better 29 to 32% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

[0058] Advantageously, the sodium silicate(s) are present in the first composition A of the brightening agent according to the invention preferably in a total content of 10 to 50% by weight, preferably 20% to 45% by weight, preferably 25 to 40% by weight, better 27% to 35% by weight, even better 29 to 32% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition A. Surfactants

[0059] The first composition A of the lightening agent according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants. These may be selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.

[0060] Preferably, the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants.

[0061] Preferably, the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

[0062] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from among the following groups: CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO.

[0063] Examples of anionic surfactants usable in the first composition A include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, al-kylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acylactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salted forms of all these compounds;the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the; aryl group generally refers to a phenyl group.

[0064] Among anionic surfactants, we can also mention fatty acid salts, especially in C8-C24, preferably in C12-C20, different from the (poly)carboxylic acids previously described.

[0065] These compounds can be oxyethylated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0066] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarbyl acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosides-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

[0067] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

[0068] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0069] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0070] Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

[0071] With regard to mild anionic surfactants, particular examples may be given to the following compounds and their salts, as well as mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; uronic alkyl D ga-lactoside acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkyl polyglycosides carboxylic esters.

[0072] In particular, polyoxyalkylened alkyl ether carboxylic acids can be used, such as lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 OE) marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

[0073] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, sulfated surfactants such as alkylsulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferably alkylsulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts and mixtures thereof, are used.

[0074] According to a preferred embodiment, the first composition A of the lightening agent comprises one or more surfactants selected from alkyl sulfates and their mixtures.

[0075] When the first composition A comprises one or more surfactant(s), the total surfactant content in the first composition A is preferably from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

[0076] When the first composition A of the lightening agent comprises one or more anionic surfactant(s), the total content of anionic surfactant(s) in the first composition A is preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0077] When the first composition A of the lightening agent comprises one or more anionic surfactant(s) selected from alkyl sulfates, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) selected from alkyl sulfates in the first composition A preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A Amino acid compound(s)

[0078] The first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention may comprise one or more amino acid type compound(s).

[0079] Preferably, the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compound(s).

[0080] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being able to be intra-cyclic, possibly in the form of a salt.

[0081] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (i.e., not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0082] Preferably, the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts.

[0083] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (I): COOH (I) H — C — N(H)W R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C12)alkyl group, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0084] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0085] Preferably, p=2.

[0086] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated (Cl-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0087] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0088] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (I).

[0089] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0090] Amino acid type compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0091] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0092] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0093] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) according to the invention are selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and their mixtures.

[0094] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0095] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0096] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0097] When the first composition A comprises one or more amino acid compound(s), the total content of amino acid compound(s) present in the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

[0098] In particular, when the first composition A comprises one or more amino carboxylic acid type compound(s), the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s) in the first composition A of the clearing agent according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

[0099] Better, when present, the total content of amino acid compound(s) selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, in the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

[0100] In particular, when present, the total content of amino acid compound(s) selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof, in the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2%, better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

[0101] Even better, when present, the glycine content in the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2%, better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A. (Poly)carboxylic acids

[0102] The first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention may comprise one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, different from the amino acid type compound(s) previously described, one of their salts or mixtures thereof.

[0103] Preferably, the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, different from the amino acid type compound(s) previously described, one of their salts or mixtures thereof.

[0104] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) is / are chosen from the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) of the following formula (II):

[0105] Formula (II) wherein: - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, preferably n=1 or 2, preferably n=2; - A is a monovalent (when n=0) or multivalent (when n is different from 0) hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups.

[0106] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (Cl-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups.

[0107] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are alpha-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Cl-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, substituted by 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, preferably 1 hydroxy group; and n = 0 to 2.

[0108] In particular, cite carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:

[0109] - n=0 and A is a monovalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, in particular (C2-C4)alkyl, even typically substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH;

[0110] - n=0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted by 1 OH radical; or

[0111] - n = 1 or 2, and A is a di- or trivalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, better (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.

[0112] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids may be selected from:

[0113] - citric acid (n=2 and A trivalent = -CH2-CHOH-CH2- ) ;

[0114] - salicylic acid (n=0 and A = phenyl substituted by an OH);

[0115] - lactic acid (n=0 and monovalent A = -CH(OH)CH3); and

[0116] - tartaric acid (n=l and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).

[0117] Even more preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.

[0118] The first composition A of the brightening agent according to the invention preferably comprises said (poly)carboxylic acid(s) and / or its salts in a total quantity from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better from 2% to 12% by weight, preferably from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

[0119] In a preferred embodiment, the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total amount from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better from 2% to 12% by weight, preferably from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A. Fatty body

[0120] The first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention may further comprise one or more fatty substances.

[0121] Preferably, the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances.

[0122] For the purposes of this invention, "fatty substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), having a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%. Fatty substances generally have a hydrocarbon chain in their structure comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0123] The fats are also non-(poly)oxyalkylated and non-(poly)glycerolated. In other words, the fats do not contain in their structure a (poly)ethylene oxide, (poly)glycerol, or (poly)propylene glycol unit.

[0124] The fat or fats may be chosen from solid fats and / or liquid fats (also called "oil"), and mixtures thereof.

[0125] The term "oil" refers to a "fatty substance" that is liquid, i.e., capable of flowing under its own weight at ambient temperature (30 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Preferably, the viscosity of the oil at a temperature of 25 °C and a shear rate of ls⁻¹ is between 10⁻³ Pa·s and 2 Pa·s. It can be measured with a Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with a flat cone geometry or an equivalent instrument.

[0126] For the purposes of this invention, "solid fat" means a non-liquid fat at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e., 1.013.105 Pa), in particular a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a shear rate of 1 s-1 under the conditions mentioned above.

[0127] Preferably, the fat or fats are chosen from among liquid fats.

[0128] Advantageously, liquid fats are selected from:

[0129] - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetanol, octyl dodecanol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0130] - C6-C16 hydrocarbons;

[0131] - hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms;

[0132] - silicones and

[0133] their mixtures.

[0134] Preferably, the fat or fats are chosen from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0135] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises one or more fats, preferably chosen from liquid fats, better from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0136] Advantageously, the total fat content, when present, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention.

[0137] Advantageously, the total content of liquid fats, when present, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention

[0138] Advantageously, the total content of fatty substances selected from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, when present, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention

[0139] Preferably, the first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention is anhydrous. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition that contains no, or very little, water, in particular less than 0.5% water, better less than 0.1% water, even better less than 0.05%, or even less than 0.01% water, relative to the total weight of the first composition A. In particular, the first composition A does not does not include water added during its preparation; any water present may be provided by the raw materials used during its preparation.

[0140] Preferably, composition A is a powder composition. Additives

[0141] The first composition A of the lightening agent according to the invention may optionally include one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which we may mention anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sun filters, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, sequestering agents, perfumes, preservatives.

[0142] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0143] The above additives can generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition. Second composition B Chemical oxidizing agent

[0144] According to the present invention, the second composition B of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents other than peroxygenated salts.

[0145] Preferably, the second composition B comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents selected from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygenated salts and mixtures thereof.

[0146] Hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygenated salts can be selected from urea peroxide, polymeric complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide, oxidases and mixtures thereof.

[0147] As an example of polymeric complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide, one can cite polyvinylpyrrolidone / H2O2 in particular, which is in powder form, and the other polymeric complexes described in US 5,008,093; US 3,376,110 and US 5,183,901.

[0148] Oxidases can produce hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate, such as glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or acid uric acid with uricase.

[0149] According to a preferred embodiment, the second composition B of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises hydrogen peroxide as a chemical oxidizing agent.

[0150] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) are present in the second composition B preferably in a total content of 0.1 to 50% by weight, and preferably of 0.5 to 20% by weight, better of 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition B.

[0151] The second composition B is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the second composition B. Preferably, the second composition B comprises water in a content ranging from 10% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, better from 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition B.

[0152] The second composition B preferably comprises one or more fats as defined above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0153] Preferably, the second composition B may also include surfactants, preferably selected from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0154] The second composition B also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0155] The pH of the second composition B, when aqueous, is preferably less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, and preferably between 1.5 and 4.5. This pH can be adjusted to the desired value by using one or more acidifying agents, which may be selected from those described above. Additives

[0156] The second composition B according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, including anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or hair regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, se- questrants, perfumes, preservatives.

[0157] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0158] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition B. Third composition C Alkaline agents

[0159] The third composition C of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents.

[0160] Preferably, composition C comprises one or more mineral, organic or hybrid alkali agent(s).

[0161] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agents" are used interchangeably.

[0162] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides and mixtures thereof.

[0163] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Alkanolamine means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched alkyl groups, in C1-C8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0165] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0166] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and their mixtures, preferably monoethanolamine.

[0167] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, and citrulline.

[0168] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned among amino acids, examples include pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Examples of amino acid dipeptides usable in the present invention include carnosine, anserine, and balenine. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. Examples of amines of this type other than arginine that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l-sulfonic acid.)

[0169] In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used as hybrid compounds.

[0170] The useful alkali agent(s) according to the invention is / are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonium hydroxide, sodium or potassium hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, better from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.

[0171] The third composition C of the lightening agent according to the invention preferably comprises said alkaline agent(s) in a total quantity of 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 2 to 30% by weight, better 5 to 25% by weight, even better 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the third composition C.

[0172] Preferably, the third composition C of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises said alkali agents selected from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof in a total quantity of 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 2 to 30% by weight, better 5 to 25% by weight, even better 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0173] The third composition C is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 20% by weight, better more than 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the third composition C. Preferably, the third composition C comprises water in a content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably from 20% to 70% by weight, better from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the third composition C.

[0174] The third composition C may also include one or more organic solvents.

[0175] Examples of organic solvents include linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0176] Preferably, the third composition C comprises one or more organic solvents, preferably chosen from polyols, preferably propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] The third composition C of the brightening agent according to the invention preferably comprises said organic solvent(s) in a total quantity of 1 to 40% by weight and preferably of 5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the third composition C.

[0178] The third composition C preferably comprises one or more fatty substances as defined above, preferably selected from fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol esters and mixtures thereof.

[0179] The third composition C may also include surfactants as defined above, preferably selected from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0180] The pH of the third composition C, when aqueous, is preferably from 8 to 12, preferably from 9 to 12, better from 10 to 12. More preferably, the pH of the third composition C is greater than or equal to 10.5, better from 10.6 to 12. Additives

[0181] The third composition C may optionally include one or more additives, among which may be mentioned anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, sequestering agents, perfumes, preservatives.

[0182] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0183] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the third composition. Fourth composition D

[0184] The lightening agent according to the invention may, in addition, comprise a fourth composition D. Direct Dyes

[0185] The fourth composition D of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0186] These direct colorants can be synthetic or natural.

[0187] By "direct dye" we mean soluble colored species. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially onto the fiber.

[0188] These synthetic direct dyes are for example chosen from those classically used in direct dyeing, and among which we can mention all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as benzene, azo, hydrazono, (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methinic, carbonyl, azinic, porphyrinic, metallo-porphyrinic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalo-cyanic and their mixtures.

[0189] Direct dyes can be chosen from neutral direct dyes, anionic direct dyes, cationic direct dyes, preferably from anionic direct dyes.

[0190] Among the benzene nitrate direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2 nitro-4-B-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2 nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1 -B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(B-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; l,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Methoxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-P,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-fVhydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-mtrobenzene; lP-ammoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-(P-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; lP-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

[0191] Parmi les colorants directs azoïques, on peut citer : Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0192] Parmi les colorants directs hydrazono, on peut citer : Basic Yellow 87.

[0193] Parmi les colorants directs nitrés aryliques, on peut citer : HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N’-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-phenylenediamine.

[0194] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.

[0195] Among the quinone direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43 (EXT. VIOLET 2), Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: the 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, the 1 -aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, l,4-bis-([3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Bine 16.

[0196] Among the azinic direct dyes, we can mention: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0197] Among the direct indomaminic dyes, the following may be mentioned: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2' -methoxy-4' -amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinone imine.

[0198] Natural direct colorants are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubine, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morine, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.

[0199] Among the useful orthodiphenols according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them.

[0200] Preferably, the useful direct dyes according to the invention are chosen from quinone direct dyes.

[0201] Preferably, the useful direct dyes according to the invention are chosen from among anionic direct dyes.

[0202] Preferably, the useful direct dyes according to the invention are chosen from among the anionic quinonic direct dyes.

[0203] The fourth composition D of the lightening agent according to the invention preferably comprises said direct colorant(s), in a total quantity ranging from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, better from 0.01 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the fourth composition D. Fatty body

[0204] The fourth composition D of the lightening agent according to the invention comprises preferably one or more fats.

[0205] The fats present in composition D meet the same definition as those described previously for composition A.

[0206] The fat or fats used in the fourth composition D may be chosen from solid fats and / or liquid fats (also called "oil"), and mixtures thereof.

[0207] Preferably, the fourth composition D comprises one or more solid fats.

[0208] Solid fats preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

[0209] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and their mixtures, more preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols.

[0210] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0211] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0212] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0213] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanylic alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0214] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0215] Preferably, the fourth composition D comprises one or more liquid fats.

[0216] Advantageously, liquid fats are selected from: - triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin; - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetanol, octyl dodecanol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; - C6-C16 hydrocarbons; - hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms; - silicones and their mixtures.

[0217] Preferably, the liquid fat(s) are chosen from triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0218] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin useful according to the invention are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil, olive oil, argan oil, coconut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0219] The fourth composition D of the lightening agent according to the invention preferably comprises the said fat(s), when present, in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better from 2 to 12% by weight, even better from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the fourth composition D.

[0220] The fourth composition D of the lightening agent according to the invention preferably comprises the said solid fat(s), when present, in a total quantity of 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 15% by weight, better 2 to 12% by weight, even better 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the fourth composition D.

[0221] The fourth composition D of the lightening agent according to the invention preferably comprises said liquid fat(s), when present, in a total quantity of 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, better 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition D.

[0222] The fourth composition D may also include surfactants as defined above, preferably selected from cationic surfactants and their mixtures.

[0223] The fourth composition D may also include alkali agents as defined above, preferably selected from ammonium hydroxide, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium or potassium hydroxides and mixtures thereof. Additives

[0224] The fourth composition D may optionally include one or more additives, among which may be mentioned anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, sequestering agents, perfumes, preservatives.

[0225] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0226] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the third composition. Process

[0227] The present invention also relates to a method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair.

[0228] The method according to the invention comprises: (i) a mixing step of a first composition A as described above with a second composition B as described above, and with a third composition C as described above; (ii) an application step on said keratin fibers of the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

[0229] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.

[0230] Preferably, the first composition A, the second composition B and the third composition C are mixed in a weight ratio:

[0231] - A / B ranging from 0.05 to 2, preferably from 0.1 to 1, better from 0.2 to 0.5, and / or

[0232] - A / C ranging from 0.5 to 2, preferably from 0.7 to 1.5, better from 0.8 to 1 and / or

[0233] - C / B ranging from 0.05 to 2, preferably from 0.1 to 1, better from 0.2 to 0.5.

[0234] The composition resulting from the mixture in step (i) is called the ready-to-mix composition. employment.

[0235] The present invention also relates to the ready-to-use composition obtained from the mixture of the first composition A, the second composition B, and the third composition C defined previously.

[0236] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is from 8 to 13, preferably from 9 to 11.

[0237] The ready-to-use composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. After treatment, the keratin fibers may be rinsed with water, or optionally washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

[0238] Preferably, step (ii) is followed by a step (iii) of rinsing keratin fibers, and then preferably by a step (iv) of applying composition D as described above to said keratin fibers. Kit

[0239] Another object of the invention is a device with at least three compartments for the lightening of keratin fibers, comprising a first compartment containing a first composition A as described above, a second compartment containing a second composition B as described above and a third compartment containing a third composition C as described above and, optionally, a fourth compartment containing a fourth composition D as described above.

[0240] Compositions A, B and C and possibly D of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by suitable application means, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or brushes.

[0241] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

[0242] The present invention finally relates to the use of an agent according to the invention as described above for the lightening of keratin fibers, and in particular of hair.

[0243] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

[0244] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions Al, A2

[0245] Composition A1 according to the invention and the comparative composition A2 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0246] [Tables 1] Al A2 Black iron oxide 0.5 - Charcoal powder 0.1 - POTASSIUM PERSULFATE 42 42 AMMONIUM PERSULFATE 11.1 11.1 SODIUM PERSULFATE 4.9 4.9 SODIUM SILICATE 28 28 SODIUM METASILICATE 3.3 3.3 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 1.5 1.5 CITRIC ACID 5.7 5.7 GLYCINE 1 1 HYDROGENATED POLYDECENE 0.5 0.5 Sequestrant, filler Qs 100 Qs 100 Composition B1

[0247] Composition B1 was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0248] [Tables2] B1 TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.05 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.05 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 0.9 SODIUM CETEARYL SULFATE 0.45 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 9 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3.15 MINERAL OIL 17 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.12 PHOSPHORIC ACID Qs Ph 4.2 + / - 0.2 WATER / AQUA Qs 100 Composition C

[0249] Composition C was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0250] [Tables3] C AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 5.8 ETHANOLAMINE 9.8 LAURIC ACID 3.0 POLYQUATERNIUM-22 1.5 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 10.0 GLYCOL DISTEARATE 2.0 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 11.5 sequestrant, filler 1.4 oxyethylenated fatty alcohols 20.0 CARBOMER 0.4 WATER / AQUA Qs 100

[0251] At the time of use, 22g of compositions Al and A2 were respectively mixed with 75g of composition B and 25g of composition C, to obtain mixtures M1 and M2.

[0252] These mixtures were made in a bowl using a brush.

[0253] Each of the mixtures M1 and M2 was applied to a strand of brown hair light (tone height 4) natural at a ratio of 10g of mixture for 1g of hair strand.

[0254] After a setting time of 45 min at 33°C on a thermostatically controlled heating plate, the wicks were rinsed, then washed and dried. Colorimetric measurements

[0255] The brightening performance is represented by the value of L* after treatment measured using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular components included) in the CIELab system.

[0256] L* represents lightness: the higher the value of L*, the lighter the strand. L* After treatment with M1 (invention) 53.5 After treatment with M2 (comparative) 55.1

[0257] The M1 mixture according to the invention leads to a lightening performance analogous to the M2 mixture.

[0258] Furthermore, mixture M1 was applied to the hair of 10 volunteers versus mixture M2 according to the following procedure: application of each mixture to dry hair, strands were taken, after a waiting period of 45 minutes in the open air, the hair was rinsed, then washed, then dried with a hairdryer.

[0259] The M1 mixture according to the invention leads to a lightening performance and a neutralizing performance similar to the M2 mixture.

[0260] The lightening agent according to the invention made it possible to obtain very good lightening performance while maintaining good hair integrity.

[0261] The presence of black pigments helps to minimize the deceptive effect that may be felt by the consumer.

Claims

Claims

1. A lightening agent for keratin fibres comprising: a) a first composition A comprising: - one or more black pigment(s); - one or more peroxygenated salt(s), - one or more alkaline agent(s), b) a second composition B comprising one or more chemical oxidising agent(s) other than the peroxygenated salts, and c) a third composition C comprising one or more alkaline agent(s). d) optionally a fourth composition D comprising one or more direct dye(s) and optionally one or more fatty substances.

2. Agent according to the preceding claim in which the black pigment(s) is or are chosen from carbon black, graphite, fullerene, carbon nanotubes and / or megatubes, carbon powder, soot, titanium black, black iron oxide and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbon black, carbon powder, black iron oxide and mixtures thereof, better still from carbon powder, black iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

3. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims in which the total content of black pigment(s) in the first composition A ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

4. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims in which the peroxygenated salt(s) are chosen from persulfates, preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

5. An agent according to any preceding claim, wherein the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) in the first comp- position A, ranges from 10 to 80% by weight, preferably from 20 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 65% by weight, better still from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

6. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims in which the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from carbonates, hydrogen carbonates of alkali, alkaline earth or ammonium metals, silicates and mixtures thereof, preferably from silicates, more preferably from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates and mixtures thereof, better still from sodium silicates, even better still from compounds having the INCI Sodium Silicate, Sodium Metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

7. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the alkaline agent(s) in the first composition A ranges from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20% to 45% by weight, preferentially from 25 to 40% by weight, better still from 27% to 35% by weight, even better still from 29 to 32% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition A.

8. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims in which the first composition A comprises one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, more preferably from sulfated surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, acylglutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts and mixtures thereof, better still from C12-C20 fatty acid salts, alkyl sulfates and mixtures thereof, alkyl sulfates and mixtures thereof.

9. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims in which the first composition A comprises one or more amino acid type compound(s), preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I), their salts and their mixtures: ÇOOH (I) H — Ç N(H)PR Formula (I) in which: ■ p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that; ■ when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl; ■ when p = 2, R represents: - a hydrogen atom; or - a (Cl-C12)alkyl group, preferably a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom or group chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2) -SH, -COOH, -C0NH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

10. Agent according to the preceding claim in which the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and their mixtures, preferably from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and their mixtures, more preferably from glycine, its salts and their mixtures, even more preferably the amino acid is glycine.

11. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims in which the first composition A comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids other than the amino acid compound(s), preferably corresponding to the formula (II) below: in which: - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, preferably n=1 or 2, even more preferably n=2; - A is a monovalent (when n=0) or multivalent (when n is different from 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (OH) groups; preferably, A being a monovalent or multivalent (Cl-C6)alkylene, better still (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene group, optionally substituted by one or more several hydroxy groups; in particular corresponding to formula (II) in which A is a (Cl-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene group, substituted by 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, preferably 1 hydroxy group; and n = 0 to 2; even better of formula (II) in which - n = 0 and A is a monovalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, in particular (C2-C4)alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH; - n = 0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted by 1 OH radical; or - n = 1 or 2, and A is a di- or trivalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, better (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH; preferentially, chosen from citric acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid and tartaric acid; more preferentially, citric acid.

12. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims in which the first composition A comprises one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, better still from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms.

13. An agent according to any preceding claim wherein the first composition A is anhydrous.

14. An agent according to any preceding claim wherein the first composition A is a powder composition.

15. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims in which the second composition B, preferably aqueous, comprises a chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygenated salts and mixtures thereof, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

16. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims in which the third composition C comprises one or more alkaline agents chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonium hydroxide, sodium or potassium hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.

17. Ready-to-use composition resulting from the mixing of the first composition A with the second composition B and the third composition C as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16.

18. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising a fourth composition D, comprising one or more direct dye(s) preferably chosen from quinone direct dyes, better still from anionic quinone direct dyes and optionally comprising one or more fatty substances.

19. Process for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising (i) a step of mixing the first composition A with the second composition B and the third composition C as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16, (ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibers the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i), preferably, step (ii) is followed by a step (iii) of rinsing the keratin fibers, then preferably by a step (iv) of applying to said keratin fibers the composition D as described in the preceding claim.

20. Use of a composition obtained by mixing the first composition A with the second composition B and the third composition C as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16, for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Dispenser for forming in situ a composition of two separately packaged constituents

    FR2586913A1

  • Solid stabilized hydrogen peroxide compositions

    US3376110A

  • Anhydrous complexes of PVP and hydrogen peroxide

    US5008093A

  • Urea-hydrogen peroxide-polyvinylpyrrolidone

    US5183901A

  • Dark hair bleaching composition

    CN106074193A