Hair Compositions and Processes
Synergistic hair treatments with cationic compounds and fatty esters improve hydration, smoothness, and frizz control, addressing the limitations of existing treatments by enhancing curl definition and volume without greasy residue.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023010944
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-12
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-18
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-10-12
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatments fail to provide long-lasting hydration, smooth texture, and frizz control while maintaining curl definition and volume, often leaving a greasy residue and requiring multiple applications.
Compositions comprising synergistic combinations of cationic compounds, branched fatty alcohols, and fatty esters, which are applied to hair and can include Esterquat compounds, cationic surfactants, and plant-derived ingredients, without synthetic gums or silicones, to enhance hydration, smoothness, and frizz control.
The compositions deliver improved hydration, flexibility, softness, and curl definition, while reducing frizz and enhancing styling ease, maintaining volume and movement, without the greasy feel, and requiring fewer applications.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Compositions and methods for hair SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE
[0001] The present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating, caring for and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, such as hair. CONTEXT
[0002] Many consumers desire to use cosmetic and care compositions that enhance the appearance of keratinous substrates such as hair, for example, by changing the color, style and / or shape of the hair and / or by imparting various cosmetic properties to the hair, such as shine and conditioning. However, hair can become dry or damaged for a variety of reasons, for example, exposure to the elements, poor nutrition, mechanical treatments (e.g., brushing the hair), styling treatments using chemicals, dyeing, heat, nutrition, etc. Even cleansing products can remove the natural oils from the hair causing dryness, which can lead to a dull appearance and split ends.
[0003] Chemical treatments include, for example, bleaching products, hair coloring products, perms, waving products, and hair straightening treatments (straightening treatments). These chemical treatments change the appearance of the hair by changing its physical structure, which inevitably causes some degree of damage to the hair. Environmental factors, such as salt water, sunlight, and heat, are also known to damage hair. Damaged hair is characterized by unnatural changes in the protein structure of individual hair strands or shafts. The damage results in split ends, dry, straw-like hair, hair that breaks easily, and hair that is "frizzy" and difficult to style. Because the visible part of the hair is dead, it cannot regenerate itself.Many over-the-counter and salon treatments claim to repair damaged hair. These include conditioners, hot oil treatments, hydrolyzed proteins, vitamin formulations, and extracts of exotic fruits, leaves, or roots. However, these treatments only provide limited improvement to the hair. Therefore, it is advisable to use hair repair technologies that restore the hair's natural properties.
[0004] The popularity and use of oils for treating dry hair has increased due to their effectiveness and simplicity. Oils commonly Used include olive oil, mineral oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, rice bran oil, and coconut oil. However, these treatments can leave hair feeling greasy. In addition, effects are usually not seen after several hours (e.g., 8 hours) of treatment, and multiple treatments are usually required, making the treatment time-consuming and laborious.
[0005] In addition to improving frizz control and smooth texture, consumers with curly or coily hair in particular need hair treatments that provide good curl definition without weighing the hair down. Thus, there continues to be a need to provide improved manageability of wet hair (e.g., improved combability and smooth texture when wet) and dry hair (e.g., improved hair alignment, reduced unwanted volume (including reduced frizz), while increasing smooth texture and a feeling of hydration. In addition to providing such conditioning and conditioning benefits, there is also a need to develop hair care products that can confer other benefits simultaneously, such as improved manageability, volume, shapeability, and, for consumers with curly, coily, or wavy hair, curl definition. SUMMARY OF DISCLOSURE
[0006] The present disclosure therefore relates to hair treatment compositions and methods that impart beneficial effects to the hair. It has surprisingly been discovered that the compositions and methods according to the present disclosure impart a variety of benefits to the hair. For example, the compositions and methods provide cosmetic attributes, such as conditioning, softness, hydration, detangling, smooth texture, discipline and frizz control, to keratinous materials, while maintaining good curl definition.
[0007] In one embodiment, the compositions comprise (a) at least one first cationic compound selected from esterquat compounds; (b) optionally at least one second cationic compound selected from cationic surfactants other than esterquat compounds; (c) at least one branched fatty alcohol; and (d) at least one fatty ester.
[0008] In one embodiment, the at least one first cationic compound is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 6%, based on the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the at least one first cationic compound is distearoylethyl dimonium chloride.
[0009] In one embodiment, the at least one second cationic compound is selected from cationic surfactants other than esterquat compounds in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 6%, based on the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the at least one second cationic compound is behentrimonium chloride.
[0010] In one embodiment, the at least one branched fatty alcohol is selected from alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbons. In another embodiment, the at least one branched fatty alcohol is selected from isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol or mixtures thereof. In another embodiment, the at least one branched fatty alcohol having from 10 to 30 carbons is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 3%, based on the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the at least one branched fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.
[0011] In one embodiment, the at least one fatty ester is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. At room temperature, the at least one fatty ester may be in the form of a liquid or a solid. In another embodiment, the at least one fatty ester is selected from sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, amla oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, bancoulier oil, camelina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil, pracaxi oil, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides, or mixtures thereof.In another embodiment, the at least one fatty ester is coconut oil.
[0012] In some embodiments, the composition further comprises a solvent. In one embodiment, the composition comprises from about 50% to about 95% water, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0013] In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of the at least one first cationic compound and the at least one second cationic compound to the total amount of branched fatty alcohol is from about 10:1 to about 1:10, from about 5:1 to about 1:5, or from about 3:1 to about 1:3.
[0014] In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of the at least one first cationic compound and the at least one second cationic compound to the total amount of fatty esters is from about 10:1 to about 1:10, from about 5:1 to about 1:5, or from about 3:1 to about 1:3.
[0015] The composition may be substantially free of synthetic gums, silicones and / or synthetic polymers. In some embodiments, at least 0.1% of the materials used in the composition are plant-based and / or of plant origin.
[0016] Another embodiment involves a method of treating hair, said A method comprising: (1) applying to the hair a composition comprising: (a) at least one first cationic compound selected from esterquat compounds; (b) optionally at least one second cationic compound selected from cationic surfactants other than esterquat compounds; (c) at least one branched fatty alcohol; and (d) at least one fatty ester, and (2) rinsing the hair. In some embodiments, step (1) is carried out after treating the hair with a shampoo. Brief description of the drawings
[0017] The present disclosure and claims may be better understood from the following detailed description, alone or in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. The drawings are included to provide a better understanding and are incorporated into and made a part of this specification. The drawings illustrate one or more exemplary embodiments of the present disclosure and, together with the description, explain various principles and operation.
[0018] [Fig-1] [Fig.l] shows photographic images of samples of wicks of dry wavy hair which has been treated with the inventive formulation (II) compared to dry wavy locks which have been treated with comparative formulations (C1 to C3).
[0019] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] shows photographic images of samples of dry wavy hair strands that have been treated with the inventive formulations (II to 15) compared to dry wavy strands that have been treated with comparative formulations C4 to C6. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0020] The present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating, caring for and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, such as hair. The compositions comprise synergistic combinations of cationic compounds and branched fatty alcohols. The compositions also comprise synergistic combinations of cationic compounds and fatty esters. The methods comprise applying the compositions to the hair. I. Compositions
[0021] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise synergistic combinations of cationic compounds and branched fatty alcohols, and synergistic combinations of cationic compounds and fatty esters, which, separately or in combination, surprisingly and unexpectedly lead to improved properties. The compositions may, for example, be hair treatment, hair care and / or hair conditioning compositions. Cationic compounds
[0022] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one first cationic compound selected from esterquat compounds, and optionally (b) at least one second cationic compound selected from cationic surfactants other than esterquat compounds.
[0023] The total amount of the at least one first cationic compound selected from esterquat compounds may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.001% to about 20%, from about 0.01% to about 15%, or from about 0.05% to about 10%, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of the at least one first cationic compound selected from esterquat compounds may range from about 0.01% to about 10%, such as from about 0.01% to about 9%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.01% to about 7%, from about 0.01% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 10%, from about 0.05% to about 9%, from about 0.05% to about 8%, from about 0.05% to about 7%, from about 0.05% to about 6%, from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.05% to about 4%, from about 0.05% to about 3%,from about 0.05% to about 2%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 2%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0024] The total amount of the at least one second optional cationic compound selected from cationic surfactants other than esterquat compounds may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.001% to about 10%, such as from about 0.01% to about 8%, or from about 0.1% to about 6%, based on the total weight of the present composition. For example, the total amount of the at least one second cationic polymer may range from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.01% to about 7%, from about 0.01% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.03% to about 8%, from about 0.03% to about 7%, from about 0.03% to about 6%, from about 0.03% to about 5%, from about 0.03% to about 1 ... about 4%, about 0.03% to about 3%, about 0.03% to about 2%, about 0.03% to about 1%, 0.05% to about 8%, about 0.05% to about 7%, about 0.05% to about 6%, about 0.05% to about 5%, about 0.05% to about 4%, about 0.05% to about 3%, about 0.05% to about 2% or about 0.05% to about 1%, about 0.1% to about 8%, about 0.1% to about 7%, about 0.1% to about 6%, about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 1%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants
[0025] In some embodiments, the at least one first cationic compound and / or the at least one second cationic compound are cationic surfactants that are of plant and / or organic origin.
[0026] In one embodiment, the at least one first cationic compound is a cationic surfactant selected from esterquat compounds. As used herein, the term "esterquat compound" refers to a compound having both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group. Exemplary esterquat compounds useful according to the disclosure include quaternized fatty acid ester salts with triethanolamine, quaternized fatty acid ester salts with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternized fatty acid ester salts with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines, such as methyl-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N-di(tallowyloxyethyl) ammonium compounds, bis-(palmitoyloxyethyl)hydroxyethylmethylammonium compounds, methyl-N,N-bis(stearoyloxyethyl)-N-(2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium compounds, methyl-N,N-bis(cocoyloxyethyl)-N-(2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium compounds, or N,N-dimethyl-N,N-di(tallowyloxyethyl) ammonium compounds.By way of non-limiting example, useful esterquat compounds according to the disclosure may be selected from distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dibehenoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, disulfoyl PG-dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof.
[0027] In an exemplary embodiment, the esterquat compound is distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, which is commercially available under the trade name "VARISOFT EQ 65 MB," from Evonik.
[0028] The at least one second cationic compound may be selected from cationic surfactants other than esterquat compounds. By way of non-limiting example, cationic surfactants other than esterquats useful according to the disclosure may be selected from behentrimonium chloride; cetrimonium chloride; quatemium-22; behenylamidopropyl-2; 3-dihydroxypropyl-dimethylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; oleocetyldimethyl-hydroxyethylammonium chloride; stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride; di(Cl-C2 alkyl) (C12-C22 alkyl)hydroxy (C1-C2 alkyl)ammonium salt; alkyltrimethylammonium salt in which the alkyl radical comprises 12 to 24 carbon atoms; propanetallowdiammonium dichloride; behentrimonium methosulfate; diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, or monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium chloride and methyl sulfates; distearyldimethylammonium chloride; behentrimonium methosulfate; or mixtures thereof.
[0029] In an exemplary embodiment, the cationic surfactant is selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof. Branched fatty alcohols
[0030] The compositions described herein comprise at least one branched fatty alcohol. The at least one branched fatty alcohol may be of plant and / or organic origin, or synthetic.
[0031] In certain exemplary embodiments, the at least one branched fatty alcohol is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerolated. The at least one fatty alcohol may be represented by the general formula R-OH, in which R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising for example from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, such as from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0032] The at least one branched fatty alcohol may be liquid or solid. The at least one solid branched fatty alcohol that may be used includes those that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e., they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.
[0033] The at least one branched solid fatty alcohol may, for example, be represented by the formula R-OH, in which R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0034] In some embodiments, the at least one branched fatty alcohol, for example those containing from about 10 carbons to about 40 carbons or from about 12 carbons to about 34 carbons, have branched carbon chains and have one or more, such as 1 to 3, double bonds. They are optionally unsaturated (C=C double bond), and contain, for example, from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0035] The at least one branched fatty alcohol may be represented by the formula R-OH, wherein R denotes a C12-C24 branched alkyl group, R being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. The at least one branched fatty alcohol may be a branched saturated alcohol. Optionally, R does not contain a hydroxyl group.
[0036] Non-limiting examples of the at least one branched fatty alcohol include isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol, or mixtures thereof. In an exemplary embodiment, the at least one branched fatty alcohol may be 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.
[0037] The total amount of the at least one branched fatty alcohol may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.001% to about 10%, such as from about 0.01% to about 8%, or from about 0.1% to about 5%, or from about 0.5% to about 3%, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of the at least one branched fatty alcohol may range from about 0.01% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 9%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.01% to about 7%, from about 0.01% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%,from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.5% to about 1% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Fatty Esters
[0038] In some exemplary embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one fatty ester. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty ester is of plant and / or organic origin.
[0039] In one embodiment, the at least one fatty ester is a liquid ester of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cr-C 26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols. branched C1-C26, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. In certain embodiments, where the at least one fatty ester is an ester of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0040] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0041] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0042] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trii-sostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and mixtures thereof.
[0043] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0044] Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0045] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group of esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C6-C30 fatty acids and in certain embodiments the C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0046] The esters according to this form variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed oleate / palmitate, oleate / stearate or palmitate / stearate esters. More particularly, mono- and diesters are used and, in particular, mono- or dioleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate / palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleate / stearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. An example is the product sold under the name "date® DO" by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0047] Finally, natural or synthetic esters of monoacids, diacids or triacids with glycerol can also be used. Among these, vegetable oils can be mentioned. As oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides which can be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty substances, examples which can be cited include: triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, amla oil, castor oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, camelina oil, olive oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides,for example those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names “Miglyol® 810”, “Miglyol® 812”, and “Miglyol® 818”, by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, bancoulier oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil, pracaxi oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0048] In certain embodiments, liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols or triglycerides of plant origin may be used as fatty esters according to the invention.
[0049] According to one embodiment, the fatty esters are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin; liquid petroleum jelly; esters of C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids and C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols, these esters having a total number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 10, in particular isopropyl myristate and isononyl isononanoate; vegetable oils, in particular coconut oil, and shea butter oil, and olive oil; and mixtures thereof.
[0050] The total amount of the at least one fatty ester may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.001% to about 10%, such as from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 2% based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of the at least one fatty ester may range from about 0.01% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 9%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.01% to about 7%, from about 0.01% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 10%, from about 0.05% to about 9%, from about 0.05% to about 8%, from about 0.05% to about 7%, from about 0.05% to about 6%, from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.05% to about 4%, from about 0.05% to about 3%, from about 0.05% to about 2%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%,from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3% by weight, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. Solvents
[0051] In certain exemplary embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one physiologically acceptable medium, i.e., a medium compatible with human keratinous materials such as skin (of the body, face, around the eyes or scalp), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails or lips. The physiologically acceptable medium may be chosen from water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent.Non-limiting examples of cosmetically acceptable solvents include C2-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols, especially those containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, for example, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; polyol ethers, for example, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether or monoethyl ether; or mixtures thereof.
[0052] In an exemplary embodiment, the composition comprises a solvent or mixture of solvents in an amount up to about 99%, such as from about 50% to about 95% or from about 60% to about 90%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition. For example, the composition may comprise water in an amount up to about 99%, such as, for example, an amount ranging from about 50 to about 95% or from about 60% to about 90%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0053] In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of the first and second cationic compounds to the total amount of branched fatty alcohol is from about 1:15 to about 15:1, such as from about 1:10 to about 10:1, from about 1:5 to about 5:1, or from about 1:3 to about 3:1. In other embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of the first and second cationic compounds to the total amount of fatty esters is from about 1:15 to about 15:1, such as from about 1:10 to about 10:1, from about 1:5 to about 5:1, or from about 1:3 to about 3:1. Additional Components
[0054] The compositions according to the disclosure may also comprise additives selected from pearlescent agents, dyes or pigments, perfumes, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, waxes, vitamins, proteins, including ceramides, vitamins, UV filtering agents, free radical scavengers, anti-dandruff agents, anti-hair loss agents, hair regenerators, preservatives, or mixtures thereof. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and their amount so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present disclosure.
[0055] The compositions of some embodiments may comprise stabilizers, for example, sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride, or magnesium sulfate.
[0056] The compositions according to the disclosure may further comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from perfumes, pigments, chelating agents, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, thickening agents or any other ingredient commonly used in cosmetics for this type of application.
[0057] In various embodiments, these additives are generally present in an amount of up to about 40% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, such as up to about 30%, up to about 20%, up to about 15%, up to about 10%, up to about 5%, such as from 0.01% to 30%.
[0058] If desired, a person skilled in the art can select the additives or their amounts in order to maintain the natural or organic properties of the compositions.
[0059] In some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of secondary gums, silicones, and / or synthetic polymers. For example, the compositions include less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less of about 1%, or less than about 0.5% of secondary gums, silicones and / or synthetic polymers, and in some embodiments do not include secondary gums, silicones and / or synthetic polymers. In some embodiments, however, the compositions may include secondary gums, silicones and / or synthetic polymers. Non-limiting examples of silicones include amine-functionalized silicones (e.g., amodimethicone), dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethyl sily-lamodimethicone.
[0060] In some embodiments, at least 85%, at least 88%, at least 90%, or at least 95% of the disclosed materials used in the compositions are of plant origin. In an exemplary embodiment, the compositions according to the disclosure demonstrate desirable cosmetic properties while comprising primarily, such as at least about 90%, naturally derived ingredients.
[0061] The compositions described herein may be in any suitable physical form. Suitable forms include, but are not limited to, low to moderate viscosity liquids, lotions, milks, cream gels, creams, pastes, clays, conditioners, masks, and the like. In various embodiments, the compositions may have a lamellar phase structure.
[0062] The compositions may be packaged in a variety of different containers, such as, for example, a ready-to-use container. Non-limiting examples of useful packaging include tubes, jars, capsules, unit dose packages, and bottles, including squeezable tubes and bottles. In some cases, the package is a tube, such as a tube with two compartments, or dual tubes, each forming a separate compartment. Each compartment may include a different composition. For example, one tube or compartment may include a composition according to the present disclosure, and the other tube may include a composition for use with the composition, for example, a shampoo or hair repair or hair treatment product.
[0063] The pH of the compositions according to the present disclosure will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions have a pH of about 3 to about 10. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition has a pH of about 3 to about 8.5, about 3 to about 8, about 3.5 to about 7, about 3.5 to about 6, about 3.5 to about 5, about 3.5 to about 4.5, or about 3.5 to about 4.
[0064] The compositions of the present disclosure are unique in their ability to provide hair with enhanced conditioning properties, including, but not limited to, manageability, softness, hydration, conditioning, detangling, smooth texture, discipline and frizz control while maintaining body, volume, fullness, movement, bounce, and manageability. Accordingly, the present disclosure relates to methods of treating hair, for example, for improving the manageability of hair and for imparting a smooth texture. More specifically, the compositions can be used in methods for conditioning hair, improving combability and detangling, and providing a smooth texture, etc. II. Procedures
[0065] The methods according to the disclosure comprise treating keratinous fibers with the compositions described herein. The methods generally comprise applying any of the disclosed compositions to the hair.
[0066] For example, the methods may include using the compositions as a conditioner, as part of a shampoo (e.g., a conditioning shampoo), as a pre-treatment, or as a rinse-out mask treatment. In one exemplary embodiment, the composition is a wash-out conditioner. Alternatively, in some embodiments, the hair treatment compositions may be used as a leave-in product. The compositions are applied to wet or damp hair and may remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e., the hair treatment composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair before drying or styling the hair.
[0067] Methods of treating hair according to the disclosure may include applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair (damp, wet, or dry hair), leaving the composition on the hair for a desired period of time, and optionally rinsing the composition from the hair. The composition may be applied to the hair before, during, or after other hair compositions (e.g., shampoo, conditioner, mask, cream, lotion, gel, etc.).
[0068] The composition may be left on the hair for a period of time, for example, from about a few seconds (e.g., about 10, 20, or 30 seconds) to about 1, 2, 3, 5, 10, 20, or 30 minutes, or longer. If desired, the hair may be heated while the composition is on the hair. III. Necessary
[0069] The hair compositions of the present disclosure may be incorporated into a kit. For example, the kits may include at least one conditioner composition according to the present disclosure and one or more additional compositions, e.g., a shampoo, a hair repair or hair treatment product, etc. The different compositions are contained separately in the kits. In some cases, the kits include one or more com positions according to the present disclosure and a shampoo, which are two separately contained. The kits may also include one or more conditioning compositions according to the present disclosure, a shampoo and a hair repair or hair treatment product, which are all separately contained. Instructions, mixing components, brushes, gloves, measuring tools, etc. may optionally be included in the kits.
[0070] It is to be understood that all definitions herein are provided for the purposes of this disclosure only.
[0071] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" (or "comprise," "have," and "include") are used in their open, non-limiting sense. The phrase "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified materials or steps and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the compositions.
[0072] The singular forms “un”, “une”, “le”, “la” and “au moins un(e)” are understood to include the plural as well as the singular.
[0073] Thus, the phrase "a mixture thereof" also relates to "mixtures thereof." Throughout the disclosure, if the phrase "a mixture thereof" is used, after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A to F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof." The phrase "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."
[0074] Similarly, the expression "a salt thereof" also refers to "their salts." Thus, when the disclosure refers to "a member selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof," it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
[0075] Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting.
[0076] Some of the compounds discussed throughout the disclosure may be in the form of a salt in the composition or may be added to the composition in the form of a salt. form a salt (and dissociate in the composition). Thus, all compounds and amounts of compounds refer to both the salt form of the compound and the dissociated form of the compound. In other words, even if the phrase "a salt thereof" is not specifically or expressly stated with respect to ingredients capable of forming salts or available as salts, it is understood that the salt form of the compound is included.
[0077] The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0078] All ranges and quantities stated herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a bound. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%," "1% to 5%," "2% to 10%," and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc. are intended to be modified by the term "about," whether or not expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "about 1% to 10%" is intended to have both its 1% and 10% bounds modified by the term "about." The term “approximately” is used herein to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%.Similarly, all bounds of the ranges are understood to be individually disclosed, such that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of 1:2 and 2:1.
[0079] Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages herein are by weight, based on the weight of the total composition.
[0080] The term "surfactants" includes salts of surfactants even if they are not explicitly indicated.
[0081] As used herein, the terms "substantially free" or "essentially free" mean that the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the basic and novel features of the compositions according to the disclosure. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the basic and novel features of the compositions according to the disclosure). Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05% or less than 0.01%, or none of the specified materials.Furthermore, any components presented positively in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, e.g., a claimed composition may be "free," "essentially free" (or "substantially . (exempt) from one or more components that are positively presented in the present disclosure.
[0082] The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition, but may still be present in a starting material included in the composition.
[0083] The term "synthetic" means a material that is not of natural origin. The term "natural" means a material of natural origin, such as derived from plants, which also cannot be subsequently chemically or physically modified.
[0084] As used herein, the term "organic" refers to a material that is produced substantially without or essentially without the use of synthetic materials. The terms "substantially without" or "essentially without" as used herein mean that the specific material may be used in a manufacturing process in small amounts that do not significantly affect the fundamental and novel characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure. The terms "substantially without" or "essentially without" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not used in a manufacturing process, but may still be present in a starting material included in the composition.
[0085] A "cosmetic composition" encompasses many types of compositions for application to keratinous materials such as skin or hair, for example, hair lotions, hair creams, hair cream gels, hair conditioners, hair masks (masks), etc., which may be used as leave-in or rinse-out treatments or products.
[0086] The term "rinse-off" as used herein indicates that the composition is used in a context where the composition is ultimately rinsed or washed off the treated surface (e.g., skin, hair, or hard surfaces) after or during application of the product. Such rinse-off compositions should be distinguished from compositions referred to as "leave-on" compositions. For example, a rinse-off composition is applied to the hair, optionally left on the hair for a short period of time (e.g., a few seconds up to about 5, 10, or 15 minutes), and is then rinsed from the hair before styling the hair.
[0087] The compositions described throughout this disclosure may be a "leave-on" composition. A "leave-on" composition refers to a composition that is applied to the skin or hair and is not subject to immediate rinsing and / or washing, for example for at least 4 hours or for a period of time ranging from 4 hours up to 72 hours, from 4 hours up to 48 hours, or from 8 hours up to 36 hours or from 8 hours up to 24 hours. In other words, the product is applied to the hair and remains on the hair as styled, i.e., it is not removed from the hair before styling the hair.
[0088] A "lamellar phase" generally refers to the arrangement of long-chain polar head and non-polar tail molecules in a bulk polar liquid environment (i.e., hair water), as sheets of bilayers separated by bulk liquid.
[0089] The term "transparent" with respect to a transparent composition indicates that the composition has a transmittance of at least 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, for example, using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. The compositions may have, for example, a transmittance of at least 80%, at least 90%, or at least 95% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, for example, using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. The term "clear" is interchangeable with the term "transparent" for the purposes of this disclosure. A person can typically see through a transparent composition, for example, and read the text on the other side of a clear glass or clear plastic vial containing the composition.
[0090] The term "translucent" in relation to a translucent composition indicates that the composition has a transmittance of at least 50% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured for example using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer. A person probably cannot see through a translucent composition, for example, and read the text on the other side of a clear glass or clear plastic vial containing the composition. Instead, the text is usually blurred and difficult if not impossible to read, however movement and structure can normally be identified.
[0091] The term "opaque" in relation to an opaque composition indicates that the composition is not transparent or translucent, i.e., it has a transmittance of less than 50% at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example as measured using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer.
[0092] The term "cosmetically acceptable" means that the article in question is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair. For example, a "cosmetically acceptable carrier" means a carrier compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.
[0093] The term "polymers," as defined herein, includes homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers.
[0094] The term "INCI" is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the Personal Care Products Council's International Nomenclature Committee to describe the ingredients of personal care products.
[0095] All components and elements positively presented in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the compositions of the present disclosure may be free or substantially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout this disclosure.
[0096] Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound or ingredient does not represent more than one component. In other words, a single compound or ingredient cannot simultaneously function as two different components of a claimed composition.
[0097] It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations may be made to the compositions and methods according to the disclosure without departing from the spirit or scope of the disclosure. Thus, it is intended that the disclosure in the description above and in the examples given below, covers such modifications and variations and their equivalents, and is to be construed in an illustrative and not a limiting sense. EXAMPLES
[0098] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only.
[0099] Example 1 - Preparation of Conditioner and Shampoo Formulations
[0100] Conditioner formulations comprising the following ingredients were prepared and are disclosed in Table 1 below. The amounts are expressed as % by weight of active ingredients:
[0101] [Table 1]
[0102] Table 1: Conditioner Formulations INCI NAME US Conditioner Inventive 1 (H) Conditioner Comparative 1 (Cl) Conditioner Comparative 2 (C2) Conditioner Comparative 3 (C3) water qs qs qs qs Distearoylethyl dimonium chloride 1.43 2.275 2.249 ___ Behentrimonium chloride 2.84 ___ ___ ___ Octyldodecanol 1.00 ___ ___ ___ Cocos nucifera (coconut) 1.50 ___ ___ 0.01 oil Cetearyl Alcohol 6,77 6,225 6,231 4,50 C15-19 Alkane ___ 1,00 0,50 ___ Isopropyl myristate 1,50 ___ ___ 2,00 Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed oil ___ ___ ___ 0,50 Glycine Soja (Soybean) oil ___ ___ ___ 1,00 Coco-caprylate / caprate ___ ___ ___ 0,50 Cetyl esters ___ ___ ___ 0,50 Guar hydroxypropyl-trimonium chloride ___ 0,05 0,18 ___ Hydroxypropyl Guar Hy-droxypropyltrimonium chloride — — — 0,05 Stearamidopropyl dime-thylamine ___ ___ ___ 1,00 Glyceryl stéarate ___ 1,00 1,00 ___ Glyceryl caprylate ___ 0,50 0,50 ___ Hydroxypropyl guar 0,10 ___ ___ ___ Potato starch modified 0,215 ___ ___ ___ glycerin 2,00 4,00 2,00 3,05 sorbitol 2,00 ___ ___ ___ Hydroxyethyl urea 1,25 ___ ___ ___ arginine ___ 0,12 0,12 ___ glycine 0,10 ___ ___ ___ Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder ___ 0,08 0,08 ___ Ingrédients divers* (conservateurs, parfums, correcteurs de pH, etc.) <5 <5 <5 <5 Translucide / opaque opaque opaque opaque transparent / opaque PH 3.8 4.2 4.0 3.7 Viscosity cP (measured at 25°C with a Brookfield DV-LL+ Pro viscometer using Helipas 94 / D spindles and a rotation speed of 20% rpm) 22,000 29,000 17,500 20,000
[0103] * pH correctors such as citric acid, tartaric acid, hydroxide sodium and sodium citrate; preservatives such as salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol)
[0104] A shampoo formulation comprising the following ingredients was prepared and is disclosed in Table 2 below. The amounts are expressed as % by weight of active ingredients:
[0105] [Table 2]
[0106] Table 2: Shampoo formulation INCI NAME US Cosmetic Type % by weight of active ingredient(s) LAURETH-12; COCO-BETAINE; COCAMIDE MEA; SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE SURFACTANT 12.15 AQUA SOLVENT QS PROPYLENE GLYCOL; HEXYLENE GLYCOL; GLYCERIN SOLVENT 3.68 ONE OR MORE OF: DYES, PRESERVATIVES, PERFUME, FLOWER EXTRACTS ADDITIVES <5
[0107] Inventive conditioner formulations (II to 15) and comparative conditioner formulations (C4 to C6) comprising the following ingredients were prepared and are disclosed in Table 3A and Table 3B below. All amounts are expressed as % by weight of active ingredients:
[0108] [Table 3A]
[0109] Table 3A: Conditioner Formulations (H) (C5) (13) (14) (15) (12) (C4) (C6) NOM INCI ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 HYDROXYETHYL UREA 1,23 1,23 1,23 1,23 1,23 1,23 1,23 1,23 POTATO STARCH MODIFIEE 0,22 0,22 0,22 0,22 0,22 0,22 0,22 0,22 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 1,50 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 SORBITOL 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 OCTYLDODECANOL 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 GLYCINE 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 GLYCERIN 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 6,77 6,77 6,77 6,77 6,77 6,77 6,00 6,77 DISTEAROYLETHYL DIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1,43 1,43 1,43 1,43 1,43 1,43 1,43 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 2,84 2,84 2,84 2,84 2,84 2,84 2,84 WATER qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL 1,50 COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL 1,50 One or more preservatives, fragrance, pH adjuster such as sodium citrate, citric acid. <5 <5 <5 <5 <5 <5 <5 <5
[0110] [Table 3B]
[0111] Table 3B: Properties of the formulations Rev. Inv. #1 (H) Rev. Inv. #2 (12) Rev. Comp. #4 (C4) Rev. Comp. #5 (C5) Rev. Comp. #6 (C6) Rev. Inv. #3 (13) Rev. Inv. #4 (14) Rev. Inv. #5 (15) Translucent / Transpar ent / opaque opaque opaque opaque opaque opaque opaque PH 3.8 3.9 3.9 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 Viscosity cP (measured at 25°C with a Brookfield DV-LL+ Pro viscometer using Helipas pins 94 / D and a rotation speed of 20% rpm) 22,000 7,000 15,000 22,500 24,000 24,500 27,000 29,000
[0112] Example 2 - General Procedure for Testing the Performance Attributes of the Invention on Wavy Hair
[0113] The following tests were carried out on 11 samples of hair strands (CP4) made from bleached European curly hair (approximately 2.7 g / strand by weight and 20 cm / strand in length when straight).
[0114] On each strand sample, the shampoo from Table 2 was applied, lathered into the curls for approximately 10 to 15 seconds, and then rinsed with water. Each strand sample was then treated with one of the conditioner formulations shown in Table 1 and Table 3A. After massaging one of the conditioner formulations into the curls of a strand for approximately 10 to 15 seconds, the conditioner formulation was rinsed with water. Excess water was removed from the strand samples using a towel. For each of the 4 strand samples strand samples (on which Inventive #1 and Comparative #1, #2, and #3 conditioner formulations were applied, respectively), the following performance attributes were measured by three laboratory experts (N = 3): wet combability and wet smoothness, and the metrics were based on the average score of their assessment as shown in Table 4A. The strand samples were dried naturally under ambient conditions before further observations were made. For each of the 11 strand samples, the following performance attributes were then measured by three laboratory experts (N = 3): dry smoothness, dry hydration, dry curl definition, and dry frizz control. The metrics were based on the average score of their assessment, as shown in Table 4A and Table 4B.Photographs of the dried hair strand samples (to which Inventive Conditioner Formulations #1 and Comparative Conditioner Formulations #1, #2 and #3 were applied, respectively) are shown in [Fig.l], and photographs of the dried hair strand samples (to which Inventive Conditioner Formulations #1 to #5 and Comparative Conditioner Formulations #4 to #6 were applied, respectively) are shown in [Fig.2].
[0115] [Table 4A]
[0116] Table 4A: Wet and dry performance attributes*** of the inventive formulations and comparative formulations A, B and C Attribute of per- Inv. 1 Comp. 1 Comp. 2 Comp. 3 formance (H) (Cl) (C2) (C3) Wet Combing B* 5 5 5 Smooth Texture Wet 4 5 5 Smooth Texture Dry 4 3 4 Moisturized Feel Dry 5 4 5 Curl Definition Dry 4 4 5 Anti-Frizz Dry 5 5 5 *B = Reference *** = Sensory Metrics for Hair Cosmeticity Assessment: 1: Better than Reference 2: Slightly Better than Reference 3: Same as Reference 4: Slightly Below Reference 5: Below Reference
[0117] [Table 4B]
[0118] Table 4B: Dry performance attributes*** of inventive formulations 1 to 5 and comparative formulations 4 to 6. Performance attribute Rev. Inv. 1 (II) Rev. Inv. 2 (12) Rev. Comp. 4(C4) Rev. Comp. 5 (C5) Rev. Comp. 6 (C6) Rev. Inv. 3 (13) Rev. Inv. 4 (14) Rev. Inv. 5 (15) Smooth texture when dry B* 2 4 4 4 4 3 2 Moisture sensation when dry B* 4 4 4 5 3 3 4 Curl definition when dry B* 4 1 2 1 4 4 4 Anti-frizz when dry B* 3 5 4 5 3 4 4 *B = Reference *** = Sensory metrics for hair cosmeticity assessment: 1: Better than reference 2: Slightly better than reference 3: Same as reference 4: Slightly worse than reference 5: Worse than reference
[0119] This example showed that the inventive conditioner formulations achieved the most balanced performance with respect to tactile and visual issues of wet and dry hair. It was discovered that the inventive conditioner formulations unexpectedly imparted conditioning properties to hair curls, including manageability, softness, hydration, conditioning, detangling, smooth texture, discipline, frizz control, and other cosmetic benefits to the keratinous materials, while maintaining appropriate body / volume / fullness, movement, bounce, and manageability.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition comprising, based on the total weight of the composition: a. from about 0.1 wt. % to about 6 wt. % of at least one first cationic compound selected from esterquat compounds; b. at least one second cationic compound selected from cationic surfactants other than esterquat compounds; c. from about 0.1 wt. % to about 3 wt. % of at least one branched fatty alcohol; and d. at least one fatty ester, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of the at least one first cationic compound and the at least one second cationic compound to the total amount of the branched fatty alcohol is from about 10:1 to about 1:
10.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one first cationic compound is present in an amount ranging from about 1% by weight to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the at least one second cationic compound is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1 wt% to about 6 wt%, preferably from about 2 wt% to about 4 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the at least one first cationic compound is distearoylethyl dimonium chloride and / or the at least one second cationic compound is behentrimonium chloride.
5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the at least one branched fatty alcohol is selected from isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol, or mixtures thereof, and is preferably 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one fatty ester is chosen from triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, amla oil, castor oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, camelina oil, olive oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, bancoulier oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil, pracaxi oil and shea butter oil, or mixtures thereof, and is preferably coconut oil.
7. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of the at least one first cationic compound and the at least one second cationic compound to the total amount of the branched fatty alcohol is from about 5:1 to about 1:
5.
8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of the at least one first cationic compound and the at least one second cationic compound to the total amount of fatty esters is from about 10:1 to about 1:10, and is preferably from about 5:1 to about 1:
5.
9. A composition comprising, based on the total weight of the composition: a. from about 1% by weight to about 3% by weight of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride; b. from about 2% by weight to about 4% by weight of behentrimonium chloride; c. from about 1% by weight to about 2% by weight of 2-octyl-1-dodecanol; and d. from about 1% by weight to about 2% by weight of at least one fatty ester selected from olive oil, coconut oil and shea butter oil, and preferably coconut oil, wherein the weight ratio of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride - behentrimonium chloride to 2-octyl-1-dodecanol is from about 10:1 to about 1:
10.
10. A method of treating hair, said method comprising: (1) applying to the hair a composition according to one of any of the preceding claims; and (2) rinsing the hair.