hair straightening processes
A hair treatment using citric acid, cyclodextrin, and cyclical carbonates, combined with silicones and film polymers, addresses the need for durable hair smoothing by creating a long-lasting, smooth and frizz-reduced finish.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023011262
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-18
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-25
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-10-18
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatments that aim to improve alignment, reduce frizz, and enhance smoothness often require multiple applications and are not durable, leaving the hair with temporary benefits that are easily washed off.
A hair treatment process involving a composition containing citric acid, cyclodextrin, and cyclical carbonates, followed by a rinse-free application of silicones and film-forming polymers, and a heat treatment to create a durable, smooth coating on the hair.
The process provides a long-lasting, smooth texture and reduced frizz, maintaining cosmetic benefits even after multiple washes, with improved fiber alignment and a healthy, shiny appearance.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: hair straightening methods SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE
[0001] The present disclosure relates to methods of treating hair, for example, methods for providing hair with improved fiber alignment, frizz control, and smooth texture. CONTEXT
[0002] Many consumers use cosmetic and care compositions that improve the appearance of hair, for example, by changing the color, style, and / or shape of the hair and / or by imparting various cosmetic properties to the hair, such as shine and conditioning. Hair can become dry or damaged for a variety of reasons, for example, exposure to the elements, poor diet, mechanical treatments (e.g., brushing the hair), styling treatments using chemicals, dyeing, heat, diet, etc. Even cleansing products can remove the natural sebum from the hair, causing it to dry out, and can lead to a dull appearance, split ends, and frizz.
[0003] Chemical hair treatments include bleaching and coloring treatments to change the color of the hair. Chemical treatments also include processes to permanently change the shape and structure of the hair, for example, perming, waving, straightening, or straightening the hair. These chemical treatments change the appearance of the hair by changing its physical structure, which inevitably causes some degree of damage to the hair. Environmental factors, such as salt water, sunlight, and heat, are also known to damage hair. Damaged hair is characterized by unnatural changes in the protein structure of individual hair strands or shafts.
[0004] The popularity and use of oils for hair treatments has increased due to their effectiveness and simplicity. Commonly used oils include olive oil, mineral oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, rice bran oil, and coconut oil. However, these treatments can leave hair feeling greasy. In addition, the effects are usually not seen after several hours (e.g., 8 hours) of treatment, and multiple treatments are usually required, making the treatment time-consuming and labor-intensive.
[0005] Hair damage results in split ends, dryness, hair that breaks easily, and hair that becomes "frizzy" and difficult to style. Because the visible part of the hair is dead, it lacks the ability to regenerate itself. Many over-the-counter and salon treatments claim to repair damaged hair. These include conditioners, hot oil treatments, hydrolyzed proteins, vitamin formulations, and extracts of exotic fruits, leaves, or roots. However, these treatments provide little improvement to the hair. Therefore, hair treatment technologies that can straighten, relax, or style hair without chemically damaging it are desired.
[0006] There continues to be a need to provide improved manageability of hair, for example, improved hair alignment, reduced unwanted volume (particularly reduced frizz), and increased shine. SUMMARY OF DISCLOSURE
[0007] The present disclosure relates to methods for improving the appearance, feel, and manageability of hair. In particular, the methods improve fiber alignment, reduce frizz, and impart a smooth texture. The treated hair is soft, shiny, revitalized, and has a healthy appearance. The methods form a smooth coating on the surface of the hair, which is surprisingly durable. The desirable cosmetic properties imparted to the hair are long-lasting, resistant to humidity, and maintained even after washing the hair.
[0008] The methods of the present disclosure typically include:
[0009] (i) applying a hair treatment composition to the hair, leaving the hair treatment composition on the hair for a period of time, and rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair; the hair treatment composition comprising:
[0010] (a) citric acid, one of its salts or one of its combinations;
[0011] (b) cyclodextrin, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof;
[0012] wherein a combined total amount of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 12% by weight;
[0013] (c) one or more cyclic carbonates; and
[0014] (d) water;
[0015] (ii) after rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair, applying a leave-in composition to the hair; the leave-in composition comprising:
[0016] (a) one or more silicones;
[0017] (b) one or more film-forming polymers; and
[0018] (c) water.
[0019] After applying the leave-in composition, the hair may be dried, for example, with a hair dryer or may dry naturally. Subsequently, the hair may be treated with a heat treatment. The heat treatment is typically produced at a temperature of about 150 to about 300°C. In various embodiments, the heat treatment occurs at a temperature of about 150 to about 280°C, about 180 to about 300°C, about 180 to about 280°C, about 200 to about 300°C, about 200 to about 280°C, about 200 to about 260°C, about 200 to about 250°C, about 210 to about 300°C, about 210 to about 280°C, about 180°C, about 190°C, about 200°C, about 210°C, about 220°C, about 230°C, about 240°C, about 250°C, or about 260°C.
[0020] In various embodiments, the heat treatment includes treating the hair with a hot iron, e.g., a curling iron or a flat iron. The hot iron may be passed over the hair one or more times, e.g., one or more passes, two or more passes, three or more passes, or four or more passes.
[0021] Citric acid and its salts provide a myriad of benefits to hair. For example, it acts as an antioxidant, removes buildup and debris from the hair, and improves blood circulation in the scalp, which stimulates hair follicles and promotes hair growth. Its acidic pH is also useful for balancing the pH of the scalp, as many hair care products make it more alkaline. The citric acid in the present compositions also interacts with cyclodextrin in a unique way and enhances film formation on the hair, which is further potentiated by heat. Sodium citrate (or trisodium citrate) is an example of a salt of citric acid.
[0022] Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides, composed of a macrocyclic core of glucose subunits joined by α-linkages 1,4 glycosidic. Cyclodextrins are produced from starch by enzymatic conversion. Typical cyclodextrins contain glucose monomers ranging from six to eight units in a core, creating a cone shape, for example, α (alpha)-cyclodextrin has 6 glucose subunits, β (beta)-cyclodextrin has 7 glucose subunits, and γ (gamma)-cyclodextrin has 8 glucose subunits. Non-limiting examples of cyclodextrins for use in the compositions of the present disclosure include α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl-α-cyclodextrin, methyl-β-cyclodextrin, methyl-γ-cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof.
[0023] Cyclic carbonates are also known as cyclic carbonate esters. Non-limiting examples of cyclic carbonates include propylene carbonate, dipropylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, 2,3-butylene carbonate, 2,3-pentylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate, glycerol carbonate, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, propylene carbonate is preferred.
[0024] The hair treatment composition optionally includes one or more poly saccharides, water-soluble solvents, amino-functionalized silicones, nonionic surfactants, miscellaneous ingredients, or a combination thereof.
[0025] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include starches, modified starches, gums, modified gums, celluloses, modified cellulose, or mixtures thereof. More specific non-limiting examples include xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum and derivatives thereof, cellulose and derivatives thereof, and a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, sclerotium gum is preferred.
[0026] The hair treatment compositions optionally include one or more water-soluble solvents (also referred to as "water-soluble organic solvents"). Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, C1-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more water-soluble solvents is glycerin, a glycol (e.g., ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), or a combination thereof.
[0027] Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, amodimethicone is preferred.
[0028] Hair treatment compositions typically include one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, ethoxylated mono- or diglycerides, sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, fatty acid glycol esters, ethylene oxide, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers is alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated. Fatty alcohol ethoxylates are particularly useful, for example, polyethylene glycol ethers of tridecyl alcohol (or other fatty alcohols).
[0029] In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, peptides, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., gold fillers organic and / or inorganic such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, particular materials, etc.), emollients, composition colorants, or a mixture thereof.
[0030] As noted above, the leave-in composition typically includes: (a) one or more silicones; (b) one or more film-forming polymers; and (c) water.
[0031] Non-limiting examples of silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclohepta-siloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldi-methicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone, hexadecyl-methicone, hexylmethicone, lauryl methicone, myristyl methicone, phenyl methicone, stearyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropyl methicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, amino-functionalized silicones and mixtures thereof.
[0032] In some embodiments, at least one of the one or more silicones is an amino-functionalized silicone. Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include aminopropyl dimethicone, amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof. Aminopropyl dimethicone and amodimethicone are particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicones.
[0033] Non-limiting examples of film-forming polymers include polyurethanes, vinyl polymers, natural polymers, latex or pseudolatex polymers, vinylpyrrolidone (VP)-based polymers, amphoteric polymers, or a combination thereof. Non-limiting examples of polyurethane film-forming polymers include polyurethane / polyether film-forming polymers, e.g., PEG-240 / HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, PEG-150 / decyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer, or a mixture thereof.
[0034] The leave-in composition optionally includes one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, polysaccharides, water-soluble solvents, miscellaneous ingredients, or a combination thereof.
[0035] Non-limiting examples of non-silicone fatty compounds include oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof.
[0036] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include starches, modified starches, gums, modified gums, celluloses, modified celluloses, or a mixture thereof, for example, xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum or their derivatives, cellulose or its derivatives, and a mixture thereof.
[0037] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, C1-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more water-soluble solvents is glycerin, a glycol (e.g., ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), or a combination thereof.
[0038] Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, peptides, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, particular materials, etc.), emollients, composition colorants, or a mixture thereof.
[0039] Hair treatment compositions are applied to the hair and left on the hair for a period of time, before being rinsed from the hair. For example, the hair treatment composition is applied to the hair and left on the hair for about 1 minute to about 60 minutes, 5 minutes to about 45 minutes, or about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes. Accordingly, the hair treatment compositions are considered a "rinse-out" product.
[0040] After rinsing the hair, it may be dried, for example with a hair dryer. Once the hair is dry, it is treated with a thermal treatment (with heat). For example, the hair may be treated with a hot iron, in particular, a flat iron. Typically, the hot iron is passed over the hair at least once, at least twice, at least three times, or more. The temperature of the hot iron is typically from about 150°C to about 300°C, preferably from 150°C to about 250°C, more preferably from about 180°C to about 230°C.
[0041] Treated hair exhibits improved hair fiber alignment, reduced frizz, and a smooth texture. Treated hair is also soft, shiny, revitalized, and healthy-looking. Brief description of the drawings
[0042] An implementation of the present technology is described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figure, in which:
[0043] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] shows strands of hair treated with placebo, comparative compositions and a composition of the present disclosure, immediately after treatment.
[0044] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] shows strands of hair treated with placebo, com comparative positions and a composition of the present disclosure, after 1 hour in a humidity chamber (80%, 25°C).
[0045] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] shows strands of hair treated with placebo, com comparative positions and a composition of the present disclosure, after being in a humidity chamber (80%, 25°C) for 1 hour and then washed.
[0046] [Fig.4] [Fig.4] shows strands of hair treated with placebo, com comparative positions and a composition of the present disclosure, after 1 hour in a humidity chamber (80%, 25°C), then washed, and again in the humidity chamber (80%, 25°C) for 1 hour.
[0047] The various aspects are not limited to the arrangements, compositions and instrumentalities shown in the drawings. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0048] The present disclosure relates to methods for treating hair, particularly hair in need of reduced frizz and improved smoothness. This is achieved using a hair treatment composition that includes a unique combination of citric acid, cyclodextrin, and propylene carbonate. The inventors believe that the propylene carbonate undergoes a reaction when subjected to heat treatment. The heat activates a reaction with the propylene carbon and amine groups of the hair fibers, likely forming an N,N'-disubstituted urea bond that contributes to the lasting fixation of the newly formed shape. The methods are gentle, long-lasting, and reduce hair frizz while simultaneously improving smooth texture. The methods improve fiber alignment, reduce frizz, and impart smooth texture to a surprising degree.The longevity of improved fiber alignment, reduced frizz, and smooth texture is also significant and surprising. Hair treated in accordance with the processes described here retains these desirable cosmetic properties even after multiple cleaning cycles. Thus, the benefits provided by the compositions are surprisingly long-lasting and resistant to washing.
[0049] Methods in accordance with the present disclosure typically comprise:
[0050] (i) applying a hair treatment composition to the hair, leaving the hair treatment composition on the hair for a period of time, and rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair; the hair treatment composition comprising:
[0051] (a) about 1 to about 8% by weight of citric acid, a salt thereof or a his combinations;
[0052] (b) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of cyclodextrin, a derivative thereof or a of its combinations;
[0053] wherein a combined total amount of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 12% by weight;
[0054] (c) about 5 to about 20% by weight of one or more cyclic carbonates; and
[0055] (d) about 60 to about 85% by weight of water;
[0056] wherein all weight percentages of (i) are based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition;
[0057] (i) after rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair, applying of a leave-in composition on the hair; the leave-in composition comprising:
[0058] (a) one or more silicones;
[0059] (b) one or more film-forming polymers;
[0060] (c) water;
[0061] (d) optionally, one or more non-silicone fatty compounds;
[0062] (e) optionally, one or more polysaccharides; and
[0063] (f) optionally one or more water-soluble solvents;
[0064] wherein all weight percentages of (ii) are based on a total weight of the leave-in composition.
[0065] After applying the leave-in composition, the hair may be dried, for example, with a hair dryer or may dry naturally. Subsequently, the hair may be treated with a heat treatment. The heat treatment typically occurs at a temperature of about 150 to about 300°C. In various embodiments, the heat treatment occurs at a temperature of about 150 to about 280°C, about 180 to about 300°C, about 180 to about 280°C, about 200 to about 300°C, about 200 to about 280°C, about 200 to about 260°C, about 200 to about 250°C, about 210 to about 300°C, about 210 to about 280°C, about 180°C, about 190°C, about 200°C, about 210°C, about 220°C, about 230°C, about 240°C, about 250°C, or about 260°C.
[0066] In various embodiments, the heat treatment includes treating the hair with a hot iron, e.g., a curling iron or a flat iron. The hot iron may be passed over the hair one or more times, e.g., one or more passes, two or more passes, three or more passes, or four or more passes. Hair treatment composition (i)(a) Citric acid and its salts
[0067] The total amount of citric acid, its salts, or a combination thereof will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 1 to about 5% by weight of citric acid, its salts, or a combination thereof, based on a total weight of the composition. In other embodiments embodiment, the hair treatment composition includes about 1 to about 4 wt%, about 1 to about 3 wt%, about 2 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 4 wt%, about 2 to about 3 wt%, about 2.5 to about 5 wt%, about 2.5 to about 4 wt%, about 2.5 to about 3 wt%, or about 1, about 1.5, about 2, about 2.5, about 3, about 3.5, about 4, about 4.5, or about 5 wt% of citric acid, its salts, or a combination thereof, based on a total weight of the composition. (i)(b) Cyclodextrin and derivatives
[0068] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof. As used herein, the term "cyclodextrins" includes carboxylic acid salts, whether or not expressly indicated. Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides consisting of a macrocyclic core of glucose subunits joined by α-1,4 glycosidic linkages.
[0069] Cyclodextrins that may be used include those of the formula:
[0070] in which: R is selected from H, CH3 or a hydroxypropyl group, and n ranges from 6 to 8.
[0071] For example, in embodiments where R = H, the cyclodextrin may be α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, α-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W6 PHARMA, β-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W7 PHARMA, or γ-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W8 PHARMA may be used.
[0072] In other embodiments where R = CH3, the cyclodextrin may be a methyl-cyclodextrin, such as methyl-α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), methyl-β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or methyl-γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, methyl-β-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVASOL W7 may be chosen.
[0073] In various embodiments, the at least one cyclodextrin may comprise a mixture of cyclodextrins and / or derivatives thereof. For example, the at least one cyclodextrin may be a mixture of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin and / or γ-cyclodextrin. In another embodiment, the at least one cyclodextrin includes B-cyclodextrin. In yet another embodiment, the cyclodextrin is only B-cyclodextrin, and no other cyclodextrin or derivative is present in the composition.
[0074] In one embodiment, the compositions according to the present disclosure include B-cyclodextrin in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, such as from 0.2% to about 8%, from about 0.3% to about 7%, from about 0.4% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
[0075] The total amount of cyclodextrin in the hair treatment compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of cyclodextrin, based on a total weight of the composition.In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 2 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 4 wt.%, about 1 to about 3 wt.%, about 1 to about 2 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 4 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 1.5 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.5%, about 1 wt.%, about 1.25 wt.%, about 1.5 wt.%, about 2 wt.%, about 2.5 wt.%, about 3 wt.%, about 3.5 wt.%, about 4 wt.%, about 4.5 wt.%, or about 5 wt.%, based on a total weight of the composition. .
[0076] Combination of citric acid / salts and cyclodextrin
[0077] The total combined amount of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total combined amount of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin and derivatives of (b) is from about 1 to about 12% by weight, based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition.In other embodiments, the total combined amount of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin and derivatives of (b) is about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 6 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 6 wt%, about 2 to about 5 wt%, about 3 to about 12 wt%, about 3 to about 10 wt%, about 3 to about 8 wt%, about 3 to about 6 wt%, or about 3 to about 5 wt%, or about 1 wt%, 2 wt%, 3 wt%, 4 wt%, 5% by weight, 6% by weight, 7% by weight, 8% by weight, relative to a total weight of the composition of . hair treatment.
[0078] The weight ratio of citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) to cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) will vary. However, in various embodiments, the citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) to cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a weight ratio of about 8:1 to about 1:2((a):(b)). In other embodiments, the citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a weight ratio of 6:1 to about 1:2, about 5:2 to about 1:2, about 4:1 to about 1:2, about 3:1 to about 1:2, about 2:1 to about 1:2, about 8:1 to about 1:1, about 6:1 to about 1:1, about 5:1 to about 1:1, about 4:1 to about 1:1, about 3:1 to about 1:1, about 2:1 to about 1:1, about 1.2:1, about 1.3:1, about 1.4:1, about 1.5:1, about 1.6:1, or about 1.8:1 ((a):(b)).
[0079] The molar ratio between citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) will vary. However, in various embodiments, the citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a molar ratio of about 20:1 to about 3:1. In other embodiments, the citric acid, its salts, or a combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a weight ratio of about 18:1 to about 3:1, about 15:1 to about 3:1, about 20:1 to about 5:1, about 18:1 to about 5:1, about 15:1 to about 5:1, about 20:1 to about 8:1, about 18:1 to about 8:1, about 15:1 to about 8:1, 20:1 to about 10:1, about 18:1, about 10:1, about 15:1 to about 10:1, about 14:1 to about 13:1, about 12:1 to about 11:1.
[0080] In various embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or the combination of (a) and the cyclodextrin of (b) are combined with each other before being added into the hair treatment compositions of the present disclosure. For example, the cyclodextrin is preferentially solubilized in citric acid to form a solubilized combination of citric acid and cyclodextrin. The combination may be heated to facilitate or accelerate dissolution of the cyclodextrin. The solubility of cyclodextrin in water is not always ideal. Therefore, combining the cyclodextrin with citric acid and dissolving the cyclodextrin in the citric acid before adding the combination with other components of the hair treatment composition may be beneficial. (i)(c) Cyclic carbonates
[0081] Cyclic carbonates are also known as cyclic carbonate esters. Non-limiting examples of cyclic carbonates include propylene carbonate, dipropylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, 2,3-butylene carbonate, 2,3-pentylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate, glycerol carbonate, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, propylene carbonate is favorite.
[0082] The total amount of the one or more cyclic carbonates in the compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more cyclic carbonates, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 1 to about 18 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 18 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 18 wt%, about 5 to about 15 wt%, about 5 to about 12 wt%, about 8 to about 20 wt%, about 8 to about 18 wt%, about 8 to about 15 wt%, or about 8 to about 12 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. (i)(d) Polysaccharides
[0083] The term "polysaccharides" refers to compounds containing a backbone of repeating sugar units (i.e., carbohydrates). The polysaccharides may be cationic, nonionic, or anionic. In various embodiments, the polysaccharides are preferably nonionic polysaccharides.
[0084] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include starches, gums, celluloses, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride (sold as Dry-Flo by National Starch), starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, and hydroxypropyl starch.
[0085] Non-limiting examples of cellulose-based polymers include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also useful herein. Of the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers, the material with the CTFA designation cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose, is preferred. This material is sold under the trade name NATROSOL CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation.
[0086] In various embodiments, the polysaccharides are preferentially selected from scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3) linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three units, a commercially available example of which is CLEAROGEL. CS1 1 from Michel Mercier Products Inc.
[0087] Non-limiting examples of gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, biosaccharide gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0088] In various embodiments, the one or more polysaccharides are selected from hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, potato starch (modified or unmodified), wheat starch, rice starch, hydroxyethylcellulose, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and a mixture thereof. In still other embodiments, the polysaccharide is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is sold under the trade name STRUCTURE ZEA by Akzo Nobel. In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more polysaccharides is xanthan gum.
[0089] The total amount of the one or more polysaccharides in the compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of the one or more polysaccharides, based on the total weight of the composition.In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 3 wt.%, or about 0.3 to about 2 wt.% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (i)(e) Water-soluble organic solvents
[0090] The term "water-soluble organic solvent" is interchangeable with the terms "water-soluble solvent" and "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., alcohols in Ci_8, or Ci_4), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof.
[0091] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C1-C8, or C1-C4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols and polyols include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin.
[0092] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, diethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and a mixture thereof. ;
[0093] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and a mixture thereof.
[0094] In a preferred embodiment, the composition includes one or more glycols selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprilyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents in the compositions, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more water-soluble solvents, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 20 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 15 wt%, or about 5 to about 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. (i)(f) Water
[0096] The total amount of water in the hair treatment compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include about 50 to about 90% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 60 to about 90 wt%, about 65 to about 90 wt%, about 70 to about 90 wt%, about 50 to about 85 wt%, about 60 to about 85 wt%, about 65 to about 85 wt%, about 70 to about 85 wt%, about 75 to about 85 wt%, about 70 wt%, about 75 wt%, about 78 wt%, about 80 wt%, about 82 wt%, about 83 wt%, about 85 wt%, or about 88 wt% of water, based on a total weight of the composition. (i)(g) Amino-functionalized silicone
[0097] The expression “amino-functionalized silicone” or “aminosilicones” designates a silicone containing at least one primary amino, secondary amino, tertiary amino and / or quaternary ammonium group. The structure of the amino-functionalized silicone can be linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic. The amino functional group can be at any position in the silicone molecule, preferably at the end of the backbone (e.g., in the case of amodimethicones) and / or in the side chain.
[0098] In certain cases, an amino-functionalized silicone is chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula: Q
[0099] in which: • each R1 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group, a C6-30 aralkyloxy group, a C1-30 alkaryl group, a C1-30 alkoxyaryl group, and a hydroxy group (preferably, each R1 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group and a hydroxy group); • each R2 is independently a divalent alkylene radical having one to ten carbon atoms (preferably, R2 is a divalent alkylene radical having three to six carbon atoms); • each R3 is independently selected from a C1-C30 alkyl group, a C5-C30 aryl group, a C6-C30 aralkyl group and a C1-C30 alkaryl group (preferably, each R3 is independently selected from one of a C1-C30 alkyl group); • Q is a monovalent radical chosen from -NR42 and -NR4(CH2)VNR42; • each R4 is independently selected from hydrogen and C1-C4 alkyl; • x is 2 to 6; • z is 0 or 1; • n is worth 25 to 3,000 (preferably, 25 to 2,000; more preferably, 25 to 1,000; most preferably 25 to 500); and • m is 0 to 3,000 (preferably, 0 to 2,000; more preferably, 0 to 1,000; most preferably, 0 to 100);
[0100] provided that at least 50 mol% of the total number of groups R1 and R3 are methyl and provided that when m is 0, z is 1.
[0101] Preferred R1 groups include methyl, methoxy, ethyl, ethoxy, propyl, propoxy, isopropyl, isopropoxy, butyl, butoxy, isobutyl, isobutoxy, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl and hydroxy. Preferred divalent alkylene radicals R2 include trimethylene, tetramethylene, pentamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)CH2 and -CH2CH2CH(CH3 )CH2.
[0102] Preferred R3 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, and tolyl. Preferred R4 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, and isobutyl. When z is 0, the amino-functionalized silicone has only pendant amine functional substituents in the polymer chain. When z is 1, the amino-functionalized silicone may have only terminal amine functional substituents (e.g., m = 0) or may have both terminal and pendant amine functional substituents in the polymer chain (e.g., m > 0). Preferably, n + m is 50 to 1,000. More preferably, n + m is 50 to 750. Even more preferably, n + m is 50 to 500. Most preferably, n + m is 50 to 250.
[0103] In some cases, the amino-functionalized silicones are alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated aminosilicones. Suitable alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated amino silicones may be chosen from compounds of the following formula:
[0104] in which R3 is hydroxyl or OR5, R5 is a C1-C4 alkyl group, R4 is a group with a structure according to the following formula:
[0105] R6 is C1-C4 alkyl, n is 1 to 4, x is the same as "n" described above, and y is the same as "m" described above.
[0106] The silicone may be a polysiloxane corresponding to the following formula:
[0107] wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5000 and 500,000;
[0108] b) amino silicones corresponding to the following formula:
[0109] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a
[0110] in which: • G, which may be the same or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or a CrC8 alkyl group, for example methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, • a, which may be the same or different, denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; • b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in par particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • R', which may be the same or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups: [YES] -NR"-QN(R")2
[0112] -N(R”)2
[0113] -N+(R")3A-
[0114] -N+H(R")2A-
[0115] -N+H2(R")A-
[0116] -N(R")-Q-N+R"H2 A-
[0117] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")2H A-
[0118] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")3 A-,
[0119] in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C2o alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cos- ion metrically acceptable, especially a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0120] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones corresponding to the following formula:
[0121]
[0122]
[0123] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Rb R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denotes an alkoxy radical. The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000. Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula:
[0124]
[0125]
[0126] in which: • p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Rb R2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denotes an alkoxy radical. The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula:
[0127]
[0128]
[0129] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200,000. Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula:
[0130]
[0131]
[0132] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000. Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula:
[0133] in which: R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a CrCi8 alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (e.g. acetate); r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; • s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
[0134] Such amino silicones are described more particularly in US patent 4,185,087.
[0135] A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:
[0136] in which: • R7, which may be the same or different, represents a radical based of monovalent hydrocarbons containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a nucleus containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; • R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a CrCi8 alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; • R8, which may be the same or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a -R6-NHCOR7 radical; • X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example an acetate); • r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0530974.
[0137] A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:
[0138] in which: Rb R2, R3 and R4, which may be the same or different, denote a radical C1-C4 alkyl or a phenyl group; • R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group; • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
[0139] and in which x is chosen such that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g;
[0140] multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicones, of the (AB)n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.
[0141] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeated units corresponding to the following general formulas:
[0142] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R'-N(H)-R-]
[0143] or alternatively
[0144] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2- R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -]
[0145] in which: • a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; • b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5000; • R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; • R, which can be the same or different, represents a radical based of linear or branched C2-Ci2 divalent hydrocarbons, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; • R', which can be the same or different, represents a radical based of linear or branched C2-Ci2 divalent hydrocarbons, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably, R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0146] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
[0147] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone oil is preferably typically between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more specifically between 10,000 and 200,000.
[0148] Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones and a mixture thereof. In some cases, a particularly useful amino-functionalized silicone is bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, where X is isobutyl and one of the Rs is OH and the other is OCH3 in the above structure, also known as "Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone" and "3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me, terminated [(hydroxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- and [(methoxydimethylsilyl)oxy]". Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone is commercially available under the trade name DOWSIL AP-8087 FLUID from the Dow Chemical Company.A particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone is amodimethicone. A non-limiting example of amodimethicone products containing amino silicones having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652, BELSIL ADM 4000 E, or BELSIL ADM LOG 1. A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300. Additionally or alternatively, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, even more preferably from 5,000 to 100,000 and most preferably from 10,000 to 50,000.
[0149] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more amino-functionalized silicones are selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof. In another preferred embodiment, the amino-functionalized silicone is amodimethicone.
[0150] The total amount of the one or more amino-functionalized silicones in the hair treatment compositions, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.01 to about 10% by weight of the one or more amino-functionalized silicones, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include about 0.01 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 3 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 2 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 1 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 3 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 2 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 1 wt. %, about 0.1 %, about 0.2 %, about 0.3 wt. weight, about 0.4%, or about 0.5% by weight, relative to a total weight of the composition. (i)(h) Non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier
[0151] The terms "nonionic surfactant" and "nonionic emulsifier" are used interchangeably in the present disclosure and may therefore be referred to as "nonionic emulsifying surfactants." The nonionic surfactant or emulsifier may have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) ranging from 1 to 7.9 or greater than or equal to 8. "HLB" refers to the "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance" associated with nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. In particular, the "HLB" value relates to the ratio of hydrophilic groups to lipophilic groups in the emulsifiers, as well as the solubility of the emulsifiers. Emulsifiers with lower HLB (such as those with HLB values ranging from 1 to 7.9) are more soluble in oils (lipophilic material) and are more suitable for use in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions.Higher HLB emulsifiers (such as those with HLB values above 8) are more soluble in water (hydrophilic material) and are more suitable for oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions.
[0152] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers include poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylene alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters, optionally polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, optionally polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters, and optionally polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof. 1. The alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferably used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Examples which may be mentioned are (INCI name), PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. 2. The alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferably used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 3 to 200. Examples which may be mentioned are laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth 100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, and mixtures thereof. 3. The polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan which are preferably used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples which may be mentioned are sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80) and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85). 4. The polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan which are preferentially used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100.
[0153] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more alkanolamides. Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include fatty acid alkanolamides. The fatty acid alkanolamides may be fatty acid monoalkanolamides or fatty acid dialkanolamides or fatty acid isoalkanolamides, and may have a C2 x hydroxyalkyl group (the C2 x chain may be substituted with one or more -OH groups). Non-limiting examples include fatty acid diethanolamides (DEA) or fatty acid monoethanolamides (MEA), fatty acid monoisopropanolamides (MIPA), fatty acid diisopropanolamides (DIPA), and fatty acid glucamides (acyl glucamides).
[0154] Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by the reaction of an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid. Examples include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (Stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (Isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide (Cocamide MIPA), coconut acid monoethanolamide (cocamide MEA), palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric acid monoisopropanolamide, (lauramide MIPA), myristic acid monoisopropanolamide (Myristamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid diisopropanolamide (cocamide DIPA) and mixtures thereof.
[0155] In some cases, the fatty acid alkanolamides preferably include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the fatty acid alkanolamide may be cocamide MIPA, which is commercially available under the trade name EMPILAN from Innospec Active Chemicals.
[0156] Fatty acid alkanolamides include those having the following structure: O KjCNRsRé
[0157] in which R4 is an alkyl chain of 4 to 20 carbon atoms (R4 may be, for example, chosen from lauric acid, coconut acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, babassu fatty acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, corn fatty acid, soybean fatty acid, shea butter fatty acids, caprylic acid, capric acid and mixtures thereof);
[0158] R6 is selected from -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl, and mixtures thereof;
[0159] R6 is selected from -H, -CH3, -CH2OH, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, --CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl, and mixtures thereof.
[0160] In some cases, the one or more of the fatty acid alkanolamides include one or more acyl glucamides, for example, acyl glucamides having a carbon chain length of 8 to 20. Non-limiting examples include lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / capryl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, capryl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, lauryl methyl glucamide, oleoyl methyl glucamide oleate, stearoyl methyl glucamide stearate, sunfloweroyl methyl glucamide and tocopheryl succinate methyl glucamide.
[0161] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more alkyl polyglucosides. Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include alkyl po- lyglucosides corresponding to the following formula:
[0162] R*-O-(R2O)nZ(x)
[0163] Wherein R1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms; • R2 is an ethylene or propylene group; • Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms; • n is an integer from 0 to 10; and • x is an integer from 1 to 5.
[0164] Useful alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate. Typically, the at least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and coco glucoside. In some cases, decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.
[0165] The compositions of the present disclosure may include one or more various nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, knowing that the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may range from 2 to 50, and that the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be cited.Mention may also be made, in a non-limiting manner, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides of glycerol; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Cio-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-(Ci0-Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] Such non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or one of their combinations, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
[0167] In some, the non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more. preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of a C8-C24 fatty acid or acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100;fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of a C8-C24, preferably C2-C22, fatty alcohol or alcohols; and mixtures thereof.
[0168] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.
[0169] As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.
[0170] As glyceryl esters of C8-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.
[0171] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
[0172] The total amount of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers in the compositions, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.01 to about 10% by weight of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.01 to about 8 wt%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt%, 0.01 to about 3 wt%, about 0.01 to about 1 wt%, about 0.05 to about 10 wt%, about 0.05 to about 8 wt%, about 0.05 to about 5 wt%, about 0.05 to about 3 wt%, or about 0.05 to about 1 wt%, based on a total weight of the composition. (i)(i) Miscellaneous ingredients
[0173] The hair treatment compositions optionally include or exclude (or are essentially free of) one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the hair treatment compositions and do not interfere with or materially affect the basic and novel properties of the compositions. Non-limiting examples of ingredients include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), composition colorants, etc.In various embodiments, the various ingredients are selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, composition colorants, and mixtures thereof. In the context of the present disclosure, a "composition colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but does not have an appreciable coloring effect on the hair. In other words, the composition colorant is included to impart coloring to the composition for aesthetic purposes but is not intended to impart coloring properties to the hair. Hair styling gels, for example, may come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but application of the styling gel to the hair does not visibly change the color of the hair.
[0174] The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the hair treatment compositions, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15% by weight of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 15 wt.%, about 1 to about 12 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, about 2 to about 15 wt.%, about 2 to about 12 wt.%, about 2 at about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, or about 2 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. PH
[0175] The pH of the hair treatment composition may vary. However, in various embodiments, a pH of less than 7 (an acidic pH) is desirable. For example, the pH may be from about 2.5 to about 6.5, from about 2.5 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, from about 3 to about 6.5, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5.5, from about 3 to about 5, from about 3 to about 4.5, preferably from about 3 to about 4.5. Treatment
[0176] The hair treatment composition is applied to the hair and left on the hair for a period of time before rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair. The hair treatment composition may be applied to wet or damp hair or may be applied to dry hair. The hair treatment composition includes a substantial amount of water and, therefore, application of the hair treatment composition to the hair will have a wetting effect. In various embodiments, the hair is cleansed, for example, with shampoo, prior to application of the hair treatment composition.
[0177] A unique feature of the present methods is the absence of a pretreatment step using a composition comprising an alkalizing agent. The methods of the present disclosure do not require treating the hair with an alkalizing agent before, after, or throughout the process. Many methods of straightening or relaxing hair require treatment with a chemical relaxing composition, for example, a hydroxide relaxer (or a hydroxide relaxing composition). Various straightening and relaxing compositions are known in the art. For example, chemical relaxing procedures use a hydroxide relaxer in a process called lanthionization, which breaks disulfide bonds and changes the curl pattern of the hair. During this process, the curl pattern is loosened or relaxed. The cortex is thus elongated, stretching the original curl pattern, making it a permanent change.There are several types of hydroxide relaxers that contain active ingredients such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH), potassium hydroxide (KOH), and lithium hydroxide (LiOH). Sometimes calcium (CaOH) is added to hydroxide relaxers, but it is not used solely for straightening hair. Therefore, in various embodiments, the hydroxide hair straightening or relaxing composition typically has an alkaline pH, for example, a pH of about 8 to 12, or about 9 to 12, or about 10 to 12.
[0178] The methods of the present disclosure are preferably performed on hair that has not recently been treated with an alkalizing agent. For example, the hair has not recently been treated with a hydroxide relaxer. The hair may never have been treated with an alkaline composition or another straightening or relaxing composition such as a hydroxide relaxer. Typically, the methods of the present disclosure treat hair that has not been treated with an alkalizing agent (e.g., hydroxide relaxer, etc.) within the previous day (24 hours). Preferably, the methods of the present disclosure treat hair that has not been treated with an alkalizing agent (e.g., hydroxide relaxer, etc.) within 2 or more days, 3 or more days, 1 or more weeks, 1 or more months, 6 or more months, or that has never been treated with an alkalizing agent.
[0179] Other hair straightening or relaxing compositions include ingredients such as glyoxylic acid. Glyoxylic acid provides straightening to hair fibers without breaking the cystine disulfide bond. Therefore, it provides long-lasting straightening effects without damaging the hair and scalp, which is more common with alkaline chemical agents and other straightening agents. The carboxylic and aldehyde groups of glyoxylic acid react with the amine groups in hair keratin, resulting in the formation of stable bonds.
[0180] In various embodiments, the methods of the present disclosure are performed on hair that has not recently been treated with glyoxylic acid. Typically, the methods of the present disclosure treat hair that has not been treated with glyoxylic acid within the previous day (24 hours). Preferably, the methods of the present disclosure treat hair that has not been treated with glyoxylic acid within 2 days or more, 3 days or more, 1 week or more, 1 month or more, 6 months or more, or that has never been treated with an alkalizing agent (e.g., a hydroxide relaxer). In other embodiments, the hair may have recently been treated with glyoxylic acid.
[0181] The hair treatment composition may remain on the hair for an extended period of time. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is applied to the hair and left on the hair for about 30 seconds to about 60 minutes. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition remains on the hair for about 1 minute to about 60 minutes, about 1 minute to about 45 minutes, about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, about 1 minute to about 20 minutes, about 1 minute to about 15 minutes, about 2 minutes to about 60 minutes, about 2 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 2 minutes to about 30 minutes, about 2 minutes to about 20 minutes, about 2 minutes to about 15 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 60 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 45 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 20 minutes, about 5 minutes to about 15 minutes, about 5 minutes, about 8 minutes, about 10 minutes, about 12 minutes or about 15 minutes. Once the hair treatment composition has been left on the hair for a suitable amount of time, it is rinsed from the hair with water. Subsequently, the leave-in composition can be applied to the hair, followed by a heat treatment. Leave-in composition
[0182] The leave-in composition is typically applied to the hair shortly after rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair. For example, the leave-in composition may be applied to the hair within 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 45, or 60 minutes after rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair. It is not required that the leave-in hair treatment composition be applied to the hair immediately after rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair, but application of the leave-in composition shortly after rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair is preferred. (ii)(a) Silicones
[0183] Silicones may be referred to as silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of silicone include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In a preferred embodiment, the one or more silicones are non-volatile silicone oils. Useful silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl di-methicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.Other examples of silicone oils that may be cited include volatile linear or cyclic silicones, such as those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8x106 m2 / s) and / or containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl-octyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetra- . siloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof.
[0184] Non-limiting examples of quaternized or quaternizable polysiloxanes include silicone quaternium 22 (e.g., Abil T Quat 60), silicone quaternium 12 (Pecosil CA-1240), amodimethicone (e.g., Dow Corning 2-8566 Amino Fluid), bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (e.g., Silsoft AX), bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone (e.g., Silsoft A-843), PEG / PPG-40 / 8 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone copolymer (e.g., Silsoft A+), silicone quaternium 16 (and) undeceth-11 (and) butyloctanol (and) undeceth-5 (e.g., Dow Corning 5-7113 Silicone Quat Microemulsion), and bis-isobutyl / PEG / PPG-20 / 35 / amodimethicone copolymer (e.g., Dow Corning CE 8401 Emulsion). A preferred quaternized or quaternizable polysiloxane is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.
[0185] In some embodiments, at least one of the one or more silicones is an amino-functionalized silicone. The term "amino-functionalized silicone" is intended to indicate any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine or quaternary ammonium group without a piperidinyl group. The term "amino-functionalized silicone" is interchangeable with the term "amino silicone." In some instances, the amino-functionalized silicones are alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated amino silicones. Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof. Aminopropyl dimethicone and amodimethicone are particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicones.
[0186] A more exhaustive but non-limiting description of amino-functionalized silicones is presented above, under the heading "(i)(g) Amino-Functionalized Silicone", and is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
[0187] Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include aminopropyl dimethicone, amodimethicone, quaternium 80, silicone quaternium-1, silicone quaternium-2, silicone quaternium-2 panthenol succinate, silicone quaternium-3, silicone quaternium-4, silicone quaternium-5, silicone quaternium-6, silicone quaternium-7, silicone quaternium-8, silicone quaternium-9, silicone quaternium-10, silicone quaternium-11, silicone quaternium-12, silicone quaternium-15, silicone quaternium-16, silicone quaternium-16 / Glycidoxy dimethicone crosslinked polymer, silicone quaternium-17, silicone quaternium-18, silicone quaternium-20 and silicone quaternium-21. Quatemium 80, silicone quatemium-16, silicone quatemium-18, silicone quatemium-1, silicone quaternium-2, silicone quatemium-3, silicone quaternium-4, silicone quaternium-5, silicone quaternium-6, silicone quaternium-7, silicone quaternium-8, silicone quaternium-9, silicone quaternium-10, silicone quaternium-11, silicone quaternium-12, silicone quaternium-15, silicone quaternium-17, silicone quaternium-20 and silicone quaternium-21 are preferred. Quaternium 80, silicone quaternium-16, silicone quaternium-18, silicone quaternium-3, silicone quaternium-4, silicone quaternium-5, silicone quaternium-6, silicone quaternium-7, silicone quaternium-8, silicone quaternium-9, silicone quaternium-10, silicone quaternium-11, silicone quaternium-12, silicone quaternium-15 and silicone quaternium-17 are further preferred.Quaternium 80, silicone quaternium-16, silicone quaternium-18, silicone quaternium-15, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof, are preferred. A particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone is aminopropyl dimethicone.
[0188] The total amount of the one or more silicones, preferably one or more amino-functionalized silicones, in the leave-on compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicones, preferably one or more amino-functionalized silicones in the leave-on compositions is from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more silicones, preferably amino-functionalized silicones, in the leave-on composition is from about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 15% by weight, about 3 to about 12% by weight, about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8%, about 1% by weight, about 2% by weight, about 3% by weight, about 4 ... weight, about 5% by weight, about 6% by weight, about 7% by weight, about 8% by weight, or about 10% by weight, based on a total weight of the leave-in composition. (ii)(b) Film-forming polymers
[0189] The one or more film-forming polymers may include one or more nonionic film-forming polymers, one or more amphoteric film-forming polymers for hair, or a combination thereof.
[0190] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic film-forming polymers include vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers; vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers; polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; co polymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene; copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic ester; copolymers of polyethylene and maleic anhydride; homopolymers of alkyl acrylate and homopolymers of alkyl methacrylate; copolymers of acrylic ester; copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer and a mixture thereof. In some cases, particularly useful nonionic film-forming polymers include homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate (VP / VA) copolymer. In some instances, the nonionic film-forming polymers of the present disclosure are selected from the group consisting of vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers, and a mixture thereof.Vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers (INCI name: polyvinylpyrrolidone) are commercially available from Ashland Specialty Ingredients under the trade name PVP K. Vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers (INCI name: VP / VA copolymer) are commercially available from BASF under the trade name Luviskol VA.
[0191] Non-limiting examples of amphoteric film-forming polymers include:
[0192] (1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, α-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates and acrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamides and acrylamides;
[0193] (2) polymers containing units derived from:
[0194] a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl radical,
[0195] b) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and
[0196] c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of the quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
[0197] The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which may be useful are groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
[0198] Acid comonomers include acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
[0199] In some cases, the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. An octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name Amphomer or Balance 47 (formerly Lovocryl 47) by Akzo Nobel may be used.
[0200] (3) crosslinked and partially or totally alkylated polyaminoamides derived from polyaminoamides.
[0201] (4) polymers containing zwitterionic units of formula:
[0202] [Chem.l]
[0203] in which Rn denotes an unsaturated polymerizable group, such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, Rn and Rn represent a hydrogen atom or methyl, ethyl or propyl, and Ru and R[5 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in RM and R[5 does not exceed 10.
[0204] Polymers comprising such units may also contain units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate:
[0205] As an example, mention may be made of the copolymer of methyl methacrylate / dimethyl carboxymethylammonio methyl ethylmethacrylate.
[0206] (5) Polymers derived from chitosan.
[0207] (6) Polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N- carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan sold under the name “Evalsan” by the company Jan Dekker.
[0208] (7) Polymers corresponding to the general formula:
[0209] [Chem. 2] ( CH ■— CHj ) |~ C H----CH ") COOH CO
[0210] in which R20 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O, CH3CH2O or phenyl radical, R2i denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R22 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R23 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula: —R.sub.24—N(R22).sub.2, R24 representing a group -CH 2-CH2, -CH2-CH2-CH2—or -CH2-CH(CH3), R22 having the meanings mentioned above, as well as the higher homologues of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms.
[0211]
[0212]
[0213]
[0214] (8) Amphoteric polymers of type -DXDX chosen from: (a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds containing at least one unit of formula: -DXDXD- (I) where D denotes a radical
[0215] and X denotes the symbol E or E', E or E', which may be the same or different, denotes a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical containing a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which may contain, in addition to oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings cyclic; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane groups.
[0216] b) Polymers of formula:
[0217] -DXDX- (!')
[0218] in which D denotes a radical
[0219] and X denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E'; E having the meaning given above and E' is a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals and containing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain which is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily containing one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.
[0220] (9) Copolymers of (Cl-C5)alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride, the anhydride maleic being partially modified by semi-amidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with an N,N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers may also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
[0221] Amphoteric film-forming polymers which may be particularly useful are those of family (3), such as copolymers whose CTFA name is octyla-crylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer LV 71 by the company Akzo Nobel. In some cases, the one or more amphoteric film-forming polymers are selected from the group consisting of:
[0222] (i) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a compound vinyl bearing a carboxylic group selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid and α-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom;
[0223] (ii) polymers containing units derived from:
[0224] a) at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl radical,
[0225] b) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and
[0226] c) at least one basic comonomer ester containing primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids or the product of the quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate;
[0227] (iii) crosslinked and partially or totally alkylated polyaminoamides derived from polyaminoamides; and
[0228] (iv) methyl methacrylate / dimethyl carboxymethyl-ammoniomethylethylmethacrylate copolymers.
[0229] In a preferred embodiment, the leave-in compositions include one or more non-ionic associative polyurethane thickeners as the one or more film-forming polymers. The non-ionic polyether / polyurethanes may have both at least one hydrophilic moiety and at least one hydrophobic moiety. More particularly, said polymers may contain in their chain both hydrophilic sequences, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic bonds alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic bonds. In various embodiments, these polyether-polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, knowing that the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence.In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.
[0230] The polyether polyurethanes may be polyblocks, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic sequences may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer carrying a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, polyblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be in the form of graft units or may be star-shaped.
[0231] Nonionic polyethers / polyurethanes containing a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane-polyethers comprise a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name. By extension, those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked by other chemical bonds to the hydrophobic sequences are also included among the nonionic polyether-polyurethanes containing a hydrophobic chain.
[0232] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic polyethers / polyurethanes containing a hydrophobic chain include Rheolate® 205 containing a urea functional group sold by RHEOX or alternatively Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. Other products include ELFACOS T210® containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain and ELFACOS T212® product containing a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO. ROHM & HAAS DW 1206B® product containing a C20 alkyl chain and with a urethane linkage, sold at 20% solids in water, may also be used.
[0233] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of these polymers include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J supplied by the company ROHM & HAAS.
[0234] As polyethers / polyurethanes described above, mention may be made of polyurethanes / polyethers comprising in their chain at least one polyoxyethylenated hydrophilic block and at least one of the hydrophobic blocks containing at least one sequence chosen from aliphatic sequences, cycloaliphatic sequences and aromatic sequences. In various embodiments, it is preferable that the polyurethanes / polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic chains based on hydrocarbons having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, and in which the hydrocarbon-based chains are chosen from pendant chains and chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.
[0235] In a preferred embodiment, a polyurethane / polyether is used which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a dii-isocyanate. These polyurethanes / polyethers are notably sold by the company Elément under the name Rheolate FX 1100® and Rheoluxe 811®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight average molecular weight of 40,000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-100 / HDI Copolymer).
[0236] According to another embodiment, a polyurethane / polyether will be used which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. These polyurethanes / polyethers are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®.
[0237] Aculyn 46® bearing the INCI name: PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer). Aculyn 44® (PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer) is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer).
[0238] As associative polyurethanes, it may be preferable to use a compound represented by the following formula (1):
[0239] R1—{(O-R2)k—OCONH—R3[—NHCOO-(R4—O)n—R5 ]h]m (1)
[0240] wherein R1 represents a hydrocarbon group, R2 and R4 independently represent alkylene groups having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, which alkylene groups may be the same as or different from each other, or a phenylethylene group, R3 represents a hydrocarbon group, which may optionally have a urethane linkage, R5 represents a branched chain or secondary hydrocarbon group, "m" represents a number of at least 2, "h" represents a number of at least 1, "k" represents a number in the range of 1 to 500, and "n" represents a number in the range of 1 to 200.
[0241] The hydrophobically modified polyurethane represented by the general formula (1) shown above is obtained, for example, by reacting at least one polyether polyol which is represented by the formula R1—[(O—R2 )k—OH]m, at least one polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3—(NCO)h+i, and at least one polymonoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO—(R4—O)n—R5. In such cases, R1 to R 5 in the general formula (1) are determined by the compounds R1—[(O—R2 )k—OH]m, R3—(NCO)h+i and HO—(R4—O)n—R5. The charge ratios among the three compounds are not particularly limited and should preferably be such that the ratio of the isocyanate group derived from the polyisocyanate to the hydroxyl group derived from the polyether polyol and the polyether monoalcohol is selected from the NCO / OH range of 0.8:1 to 1.4:1.
[0242] The polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R1 —[(O-R2)k—OH]m and which can be preferentially used to obtain the associative thickener represented by the general formula (1) can be obtained by addition polymerization of an m-hydric polyol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, oxide propylene, butylene oxide, or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, and the like.
[0243] The polyols should preferably be di- to octahydric polyols. Examples of di- to octahydric polyols include dihydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol and neopentyl glycol; trihydric alcohols, such as glycerol, trioxy isobutane, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,3-pentanetriol, 2-methyl-1,2,3-propanetriol, 2-methyl-2,3,4-butanetriol, 2-ethyl-1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3,4-pentanetriol, 2,3,4-hexanetriol, 4-propyl-3,4,5-heptanetriol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,3,4-pentanetriol, pentamethylglycerol, pentaglycerol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,4-pentanetriol, trimethylolethane and trimethylolpropane; tetrahydric alcohols, such as pentaerythritol, 1,2,3,4-pentanetetrol, 2,3,4,5-hexanetetrol, 1,2,4,5-pentanetetrol and 1,3,4,5-hexanetetrol; pentahydric alcohols, such as adonitol, arabitol and xylitol;hexahydric alcohols, such as dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol and iditol; and octahydric alcohols, such as sucrose. ;
[0244] In addition, R2 is determined by alkylene oxide, styrene oxide or the like, which is subjected to addition. In particular, for availability and excellent effects, alkylene oxide having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, or styrene oxide is preferable.
[0245] The alkylene oxide, styrene oxide, or the like to be subjected to addition may be subjected to a single polymerization, or to a random polymerization, or to a block polymerization of at least two members. The addition procedure may be a conventional procedure. In addition, the degree of polymerization k may be selected from the range of 0 to 1000, preferably from the range of 1 to 500, and more preferably from the range of 10 to 200. Furthermore, the ratio of the ethylene group occupying R2 should preferably be in the range of 50 to 100% by mass relative to the total amount of R2. In such cases, the associative thickener suitable for the purposes of the present invention is obtained.
[0246] Furthermore, the molecular weight of the polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R1—[(O-R2)k—OH]m, should preferably be selected in the range of 500 to 100,000, and should more preferably be selected in the range of 1,000 to 50,000.
[0247] The polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3—(NCO)h+i and which can be preferentially used to obtain the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane represented by the general formula (1) employed in accordance with the present invention is not limited, particularly to the extent that the polyisocyanate has at least two isocyanate groups in the molecule. Examples of polyisocyanates include aliphatic diisocyanates, aromatic diisocyanates, alicyclic diisocyanates, biphenyl diisocyanate, phenylmethane diisocyanate, phenylmethane triisocyanate and phenylmethane tetraisocyanate.
[0248] It is also possible to use dimers and trimers (isocyanurate bonds) of the polyisocyanates listed above. In addition, it is possible to use biuret obtained by reaction with an amine.
[0249] Furthermore, it is possible to use a polyisocyanate having a urethane bond obtained by reacting said polyisocyanate compound and a polyol. As the polyol, di- to octahydric polyols are preferable, and the polyols listed above are preferable. In cases where a trihydric or higher polyisocyanate is used as the polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R3-(NCO)n+1, it is preferable to employ said polyisocyanate having the urethane bond.
[0250] The polyether monoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO—(R4—O)n—R5 and which can be preferentially used to obtain the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane represented by the general formula (1) employed in accordance with the present invention is not limited, particularly to the extent that the polyether monoalcohol is a polyether of a straight chain, a branched chain or a secondary monohydric alcohol. The polyether monoalcohol can be obtained by addition polymerization of the straight chain, the branched chain or the secondary monohydric alcohol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, and the like.
[0251] The compound represented by general formula (1) can be produced, for example, by heating at a temperature of 80 to 90°C for 1 to 3 hours and thereby causing a reaction to occur in the same manner as that in the ordinary reaction of a polyether and an isocyanate.
[0252] As a compound represented by general formula (1), polyethylene glycol-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is preferable. Polyethylene glycol-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is also called PEG-240 / HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer.
[0253] In various embodiments, it is preferable that the non-ionic associative polyurethane thickener is selected from the steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer sold by the company Rheox under the name Rheolate FX 1100, the PEG-240 / HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer sold by the company Asahi Denka under the name Adekanol GT-700, and mixtures thereof.
[0254] The amount of the one or more film-forming polymers, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the styling composition includes about 0.01 to about 10% by weight of the one or more film-forming polymers, preferably one or more nonionic film-forming polymers, based on a total weight of the styling composition. In other embodiments, the styling composition includes about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, about 0.05 to about 6% by weight, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5% by weight, about 0.6% by weight, about 0.8% by weight, about 0.9% by weight, about 1% by weight, about 1.5% by weight of the one or more film-forming polymers, preferably non-film-forming polymers ionic, such as non-ionic associative polyurethane thickener, relative to a total weight of the styling composition. (ii)(c) Water
[0255] The leave-on composition is an aqueous composition, typically containing a substantial amount of water. For example, in various embodiments, the leave-on composition includes about 50 to about 90% by weight of water, based on a total weight of the composition.In other embodiments, the leave-on compositions include about 60 to about 90 wt%, about 70 to about 90 wt%, about 75 to about 90 wt%, about 50 to about 85 wt%, about 60 to about 85 wt%, about 70 to about 85 wt%, about 75 to about 85 wt%, about 50 to about 80 wt%, about 60 to about 80 wt%, about 70 to about 80 wt%, about 75 to about 80 wt%, about 65 to about 85 wt%, about 70 wt%, about 72 wt%, about 75 wt%, about 76 wt%, about 78 wt%, about 80 wt%, or about 82 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. (ii)(d) Non-silicone fatty compound.
[0256] The expression "non-silicone fatty compound" is interchangeable with the expression "non-silicone-based fatty compound" and designates a silicone-free organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e. which has a solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0.1%. They have in their structure a hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.
[0257] More particularly, the one or more non-silicone-based fatty compounds may be chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, vegetable oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones, and their mixtures.
[0258] Fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0259] With respect to C6-C16 hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that may be cited include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
[0260] One animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oil that may be cited is perhydrosqualene.
[0261] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from triglycerides of liquid fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbitaceae oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and butter oil. shea.
[0262] Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.
[0263] The fluorinated oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetrafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
[0264] The fatty alcohols which can be used in the cosmetic composition of step a) are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, among which may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol.
[0265] The non-salified fatty acids which can be used in the cosmetic composition of step a) can be saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are more particularly chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
[0266] These acids are not salified. This means that they are introduced in the form of free acids and that the composition does not include any alkaline agent leading to their salification.
[0267] The esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, which can be used in the cosmetic composition used in step c) are esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate;isodecyl oleate; isononyl isonanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate and 2-hexyldecyl laurate. ;
[0268] Still in the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0269] We can also cite in particular: diethyl sebacate; due- sebacate sopropyl; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.
[0270] Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isonanoate or cetyl octanoate.
[0271] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate. More particularly, mono- and diesters and, in particular, mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate / palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, are used.
[0272] The non-silicone wax(es) which may be used in the cosmetic composition used in step a) are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, hydrocarbon waxes including paraffin wax, ozokerite and microcrystalline wax, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for example beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellin); other waxes or waxy starting materials which can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
[0273] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds are selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof.
[0274] The total amount of the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds in the leave-on compositions, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the leave-on compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, based on the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, about 0.1 to about 12 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 20 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, or about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%.%, about 2 to about 8%, about 3 to about 20%, about 3 to about 15%, about 3 to about 12%, about 3 to about 10%, about 3 to about 8%, about 5 to about 20%, about 5 to about 15%, about 5 to about 12%, about 5 to about 10%, about 5 to about 8% by weight, about 5% by weight, about 6% by weight, about 7% by weight, about 8% by weight, about 9% by weight, or about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. (ii)(e) Polysaccharide
[0275] The term "polysaccharides" refers to compounds containing a backbone of repeating sugar units (i.e., carbohydrates). The polysaccharides may be cationic, nonionic, or anionic. In various embodiments, the polysaccharides are preferably nonionic polysaccharides.
[0276] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include starches, gums, celluloses, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride (sold as Dry-Flo by National Starch), starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, and hydroxypropyl starch.
[0277] Non-limiting examples of cellulose-based polymers include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also useful herein. Among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers, the material CTFA designation cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose, is preferred. This material is sold under the trade name NATROSOL CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation.
[0278] In various embodiments, the polysaccharides are preferentially selected from scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3) linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three units, a commercially available example of which is CLEAROGEL. CS1 1 from Michel Mercier Products Inc.
[0279] Non-limiting examples of gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, biosaccharide gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0280] In various embodiments, the one or more polysaccharides are selected from hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, potato starch (modified or unmodified), wheat starch, rice starch, hydroxyethylcellulose, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and a mixture thereof. In still other embodiments, the polysaccharide is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is sold under the trade name STRUCTURE ZEA by Akzo Nobel. In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more polysaccharides is sclerotium gum.
[0281] The total amount of the one or more polysaccharides in the leave-on compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of the one or more polysaccharides, based on the total weight of the composition.In other embodiments, the leave-on compositions include about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 2 wt.% % by weight, about 0.2% by weight, about 0.3% by weight, about 0.4% by weight, about 0.5% by weight, about 0.6% by weight, about 0.7% by weight, or about . 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (ii)(f) Water-soluble organic solvent
[0282] The term "water-soluble organic solvent" is interchangeable with the terms "water-soluble solvent" and "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C1-8, or C1-4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof.
[0283] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C 1 -C 8 , or C 1 -C 8 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols and polyols include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin.
[0284] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, mono-n-propyl ether; propylene glycol, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, diethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and a mixture thereof.
[0285] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and a mixture thereof.
[0286] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions include one or more glycols selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0287] The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents in the compositions, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the one or more water-soluble solvents, based on the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 15 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 20 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 20 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 20 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 15 wt%, or about 5 to about 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. (ii)(g) Miscellaneous ingredient
[0288] The leave-on compositions optionally include or exclude (or are essentially free of) one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the leave-on treatment compositions and that do not interfere with or materially affect the basic and novel properties of the compositions. A non-limiting description of a variety of miscellaneous ingredients is set forth above, under the heading "(i)(i) Miscellaneous Ingredients", which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
[0289] The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the leave-on compositions, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the leave-on compositions include about 0.1 to about 15% by weight of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients, based on the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the compositions include about 0.1 to about 12 wt%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 15 wt%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 15 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%, about 1 to about 8 wt%, about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 2 to about 15 wt%, about 2 to about 12 wt%, about 2 to about 10 wt%, about 2 to about 8 wt%, or about 2 to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the compositions. . PH
[0290] The pH of the composition may vary. However, in various embodiments, a pH less than 7 (an acidic pH) is desirable. For example, the pH may be from about 3 to about 6.5, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5.5, from about 3 to about 5, from about 3 to about 4.5, from about 3.5 to about 6.5, from about 3.5 to about 6, from about 3.5 to about 5.5, from about 3.5 to about 5, or from about 3.5 to about 4.5, from about 4 to about 6.5, from about 4 to about 6, from about 4 to about 5.5, from about 4 to about 5, from about 4.5 to about 6.5, from about 4.5 to about 6, from about 4.5 to about 5.5, or from about 4.5 to about 5, preferably from about 4.5 to about 5.5. Thermal treatment
[0291] After applying the leave-in composition to the hair, the hair may be dried, for example, with a hair dryer. Alternatively, the hair may be allowed to dry naturally. The heat treatment typically occurs at a temperature of about 150 to about 300°C. In various embodiments, the heat treatment occurs at a temperature of about 150 to about 280°C, about 180 to about 300°C, about 180 to about 280°C, about 200 to about 300°C, about 200 to about 280°C, about 200 to about 260°C, about 200 to about 250°C, about 210 to about 300°C, about 210 to about 280°C, about 180°C, about 190°C, about 200°C, about 210°C, about 220°C, about 230°C, about 240°C, about 250°C, or about 260°C.
[0292] In various embodiments, the heat treatment includes treating the hair with a hot iron, e.g., a curling iron or a flat iron. The hot iron may be passed through the hair one or more times, for example, one or more passes, two or more passes, three or more passes, or four or more passes. Embodiments
[0293] In various embodiments, the methods according to the present disclosure comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of:
[0294] (i) applying a hair treatment composition, leaving the com hair treatment position on the hair for a period of time, preferably about 1 minute to about 60 minutes, more preferably about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, even more preferably about 5 minutes to about 20 minutes, and rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair; the hair treatment composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of:
[0295] (a) about 1 to about 5 wt%, preferably about 1.5 to about 4, plus preferably about 2 to about 4% by weight of citric acid, one of its salts or one of its mixtures;
[0296] (b) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 4, plus preferably about 1 to about 3% by weight of a cyclodextrin or a derivative thereof, preferably a cyclodextrin or a derivative of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl derivatives of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, or γ-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl derivatives of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, or γ-cyclodextrin, or mixtures thereof, more preferably β-cyclodextrin;
[0297] wherein a combined total amount of (i)(a) and (i)(b) is from about 2 to about 12 wt%, preferably from about 2 to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 3 to about 8 wt%, and even more preferably from about 3 to about 6 wt%; and
[0298] (i)(a) and (i)(b) are individually combined with each other to form a composition intermediate wherein (i)(a) is dissolved in (i)(b); and the intermediate composition is then combined with additional components of the hair treatment composition;
[0299] (c) about 1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 15, more preferably about 8 to about 12% by weight of one or more cyclic carbonates, preferably one or more cyclic carbonates selected from propylene carbonate, dipropylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, 2,3-butylene carbonate, 2,3-pentylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate, glycerol carbonate, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more cyclic carbonates include propylene carbonate or are propylene carbonate;
[0300] (d) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more polysaccharides, preferably one or more polysaccharides chosen from starches, modified starches, gums, modified gums, celluloses, modified celluloses, and a mixture thereof, more preferably in which the one or more polysaccharides are chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum and its derivatives, and a mixture thereof, in particular xanthan gum;
[0301] (e) optionally, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, C1-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, glycols (e.g., ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.) or a combination thereof;
[0302] (f) about 60 to about 85% by weight, preferably about 65 to about 80% by weight, more preferably about 70 to about 80% by weight of water; and
[0303] (g) optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, preferably selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more amino-functionalized silicones include amodimethicone or are amodimethicone;
[0304] (h) optionally, about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers, preferably wherein the one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers are selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, ethoxylated mono- or diglycerides, sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, fatty acid glycol esters, ethylene oxide, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides and mixtures thereof, for example, one or more alkyl or polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 3 to 200, in particular, selected from laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oléth-5, oléth-7, oléth-10, oléth-12, oléth-20, oléth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, stéareth-6, stéareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth 100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, pareth-3 in C12-15, pareth-4 in C12-13, pareth-23 in C12-13, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, or mixtures thereof
[0305] (i) optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, peptides, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, particular materials, etc.), emollients, composition colorants, or a mixture thereof;
[0306] wherein all weight percentages of (i) are based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition;
[0307] (ii) after rinsing the hair treatment composition, preferably within approximately 5, 10, 15, 30, 45 or 60 minutes following rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair, applying a leave-in composition to the hair; the leave-in composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of:
[0308] (a) 1 to 10% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably preferably about 3 to about 6% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, preferably chosen from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl di-methicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof, more preferably one or more amino-functionalized silicones chosen from aminopropyl dimethicone, amodimethicone or a combination thereof;
[0309] (b) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more film-forming polymers, preferably one or more polyurethane film-forming polymers, more preferably one or more polyurethane / polyether film-forming polymers (also called non-ionic associative polymeric polyurethane / polyether thickeners) chosen from PEG-240 / HDI bis-de-cyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, PEG-150 / decyl alcohol / SMDI, steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer, or a mixture thereof, in particular, PEG-240 / HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer
[0310] (c) about 60 to about 85% by weight, preferably about 65 to about 80% by weight, more preferably about 70 to about 80% by weight of water;
[0311] (d) optionally, about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of one or more non-silicone-based fatty compounds, preferably wherein the one or more non-silicone-based fatty compounds are selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more non-silicone-based fatty compounds comprise or consist of one or more linear or branched alkanes, oils or a mixture thereof;
[0312] (e) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more polysaccharides, preferably one or more polysaccharides chosen from starches, modified starches, gums, modified gums, celluloses, modified celluloses, and a mixture thereof, more preferably in which the one or more polysaccharides are chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum and its derivatives, cellulose and its derivatives, and a mixture thereof, in particular sclerotium gum;
[0313] (f) optionally, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, C1-C6 monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, glycols (e.g., ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.) or a combination thereof; and
[0314] (g) optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, peptides, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers) organic materials such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, particular materials, etc.), emollients, composition colorants, or a mixture thereof;
[0315] wherein all weight percentages of (ii) are based on a total weight of the leave-on composition of (ii);
[0316] (iii) treating the hair with a heat treatment at a temperature of about 150 to about 300 oC, preferably about 180 to about 280 oC, more preferably about 180 to about 250 oC, wherein the heat treatment preferably comprises or consists of treating the hair with a hot iron such as a curling iron or a flat iron, preferably a flat iron.
[0317] An implementation of the present disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. These examples serve to illustrate the technology without being limiting in nature. Example 1 (Compositions)
[0318] [Tables 1] Comparative Inventive ABC (a) CITRIC ACID 2.5 2.5 (b) CYCLODEXTRIN 1.5 1.5 Total (a)+(b) NA 4 4 Weight ratio (a):(b) NA 1.7:1 1.7:1 Molar ratio (a):(b) NA 10:1 10:1 (c) PROPYLENE CARBONATE 10 10 (d) XANTHAN GUM 1 1 (e) GLYCERIN 1 1 (g) AMODIMETHICONE 0.2 (h) TRIDECETH-10 TRIDECETH-5 1.3 (i) MISCELLANEOUS (Fillers, pH adjusters, preservatives, botanical extracts, fragrances, buffers, stabilizers, vitamins and / or emollients, etc.) <5 <5 <5 (f) WATER 90 94 83 PH 5 to 6 3.5 to 4 3.5 to 4 Example 3 (Comparative test)
[0319] To determine how treatment with Inventive Composition C and with Comparative Compositions A and B influences the hair, tests were carried out on commercially available hair strands (bleached hair CP3, 2 gm, 15 cm). All hair strands were initially cleaned with a standard shampoo before treatment with one of the compositions A to C. Approximately 0.4 grams of one of each composition per gram of hair was applied to the cleaned hair strands and distributed evenly throughout the hair. After distribution throughout the hair, the compositions were left on the hair for 10 minutes and then thoroughly rinsed from the hair. The hair strands were then blow-dried and treated with a flat iron (180°C).The flat iron was passed over the hair strands three times for 10 seconds for each pass (the flat iron was passed along the distance of the hair strands (15 cm) over a period of 10 seconds per pass). The strands were evaluated and images of the hair strands are provided in [Fig.l]. Then, the hair strands were subjected to humidity treatment. The hair strands were placed in a humidity chamber having a temperature of 25 °C and 80% RH for 1 hour. After 1 hour in the humidity chamber, the strands were evaluated again. Images of the strands subjected to humidity treatment are shown in [Fig.2].
[0320] Following the humidity treatments, the strands were again cleaned with the standard shampoo and evaluated. Images of the strands are provided in [Fig.3]. Again, the hair strands were subjected to a humidity test. The hair strands were again placed in the humidity chamber having a temperature of 25°C and 80% RH for 1 hour. After 1 hour in the humidity chamber, the strands were again evaluated. Images of the strands subjected to humidity treatment are shown in [Fig.4].
[0321] [Fig.4] shows that hair strands treated with Inventive Composition C showed better fiber alignments, less frizz, more smooth texture and less roughness at the ends of the hair fibers compared to placebo and compared to hair strands treated with Comparative Compositions A and B. This illustrates that Inventive Composition C provided improved fiber alignments, less frizz, more texture and less roughness at the ends of the hair, and that the improvement is long-lasting, longer than that provided by Comparative Compositions A and B. Example 3 (No-rinse composition)
[0322] [Tables2] (iii) (a) AMINOPROPYL DIMETHICONE 4.9 (b) PEG-240 / HDI BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER COPOLYMER 0.9 (d) UNDECANE, ISODODECANE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, TRIDECANE, AND HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL 8 (e) SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.5 (f) BUTYLENE GLYCOL AND CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 6.2 (g) MISCELLANEOUS INGREDIENTS < 5 (c) WATER QS PH 4.5 to 5.5
[0323] * For example, preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, buffers, chelating agents, composition colorants, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, protein isolates or hydrolysates, salts, etc. (e.g., potassium laurate, citric acid, sodium citrate, tocopherol, etc.)
[0324] The foregoing description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Furthermore, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments. However, as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable of use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, consistent with the above teachings and / or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein.The appended claims are also intended to be construed as including other embodiments.
[0325] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.
[0326] The terms “a”, “an”, “the” and “the” are understood to include the plural and the singular. Thus, the phrase "a mixture thereof" also includes "mixtures thereof." Throughout the disclosure, the phrase "a mixture thereof" is used after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof." The phrase "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."
[0327] Similarly, the expression "a salt thereof" also relates to "salts thereof". Thus, when the disclosure refers to "a member selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof", it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.
[0328] Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.
[0329] The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0330] The term “plurality” means “more than one” or “two or more.”
[0331] Except in working examples, or if otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions may be modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within + / - 5% of the number indicated.
[0332] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.
[0333] Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, some compounds may be considered both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fatty compound, a compound single will serve only as a non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier or only as a fatty compound (the single compound does not simultaneously serve as both a non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fatty component).
[0334] A "rinse-out" product refers to a composition that is rinsed and / or washed from the hair with water after or during application of the composition to the hair, and before drying and / or styling the hair. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the hair during rinsing and / or washing.
[0335] A "leave-in" product refers to a composition that is not rinsed and / or washed out of the hair after or during application of the composition to the hair. The composition remains on the hair during drying and / or throughout styling.
[0336] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate subranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc.
[0337] The composition of the present case optionally includes one or more surfactants and / or emulsifiers, for example, one or more nonionic, anionic, cationic, and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants. The terms "surfactants" and "emulsifiers" include salts of the surfactants and emulsifiers even if not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is intended that salts are also encompassed to the extent that such salts exist, even though the specification may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in all instances throughout the disclosure), for example, by using language such as "a salt thereof" or "salts thereof." Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers.However, additional cations such as ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, can also form surfactant salts.
[0338] The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that less than about 2% by weight of a specific material is added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, or none of the specified material.
[0339] Any components positively presented in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a com- claimed position may be "exempt", "essentially exempt" (or “substantially free”) of one or more components that are positively presented in the present disclosure.
Claims
Claims
1. A method for treating hair comprising: (i) applying a hair treatment composition to the hair, leaving the hair treatment composition on the hair for a period of time, and rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair; the hair treatment composition comprising: (a) citric acid, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof; (b) cyclodextrin or a derivative thereof; wherein a combined total amount of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 12% by weight; (c) one or more cyclic carbonates; and (f) water; wherein all weight percentages of (i) are based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition; (ii) after rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair, applying a leave-in composition to the hair; the leave-in composition comprising: (a) one or more silicones;(b) one or more film-forming polymers; and (c) water.;
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH of about 2 to about 6, and the leave-in composition has a pH of about 2 to about 6.
3. The method of claim 1, wherein the hair treatment composition further comprises: (d) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more polysaccharides; and / or e) one or more water-soluble solvents.
4. A composition according to claim 1, wherein (i)(a) and (i)(b) are individually combined with each other to form an intermediate composition in which (i)(a) is dissolved in (i)(b); and the intermediate composition is then combined with additional components of the hair treatment composition.
5. Composition according to claim 1, in which the cyclodextrin or its derivatives are chosen from α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl- a-cyclodextrin, methyl-B-cyclodextrin, methyl-y-cyclodextrin, or a mixture thereof; and wherein the one or more cyclic carbonates are selected from propylene carbonate, dipropylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, 2,3-butylene carbonate, 2,3-pentylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate, glycerol carbonate, or a mixture thereof.
6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the one or more cyclic carbonates are propylene carbonate.
7. The method of claim 1, wherein the leave-on composition further comprises: (d) about 1 to about 15 weight percent of one or more fatty compounds; and / or (e) about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent of one or more polysaccharides; and / or (f) about 1 to about 15 weight percent of one or more water-soluble solvents; wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the leave-on composition.
8. The method of claim 1, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises: (a) about 1 to about 5% by weight of citric acid, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof; (b) about 1 to about 5% by weight of a cyclodextrin or derivatives thereof; wherein a combined total amount of (i)(a) and (i)(b) is about 2 to about 10% by weight; (c) about 5 to about 20% by weight of one or more cyclic carbonates; (d) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more polysaccharides; (e) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents; and (f) about 65 to about 90% by weight of water; wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition.
9. The method of claim 1, wherein the leave-on composition comprises: (a) about 1 to about 12% by weight of one or more amino-silicones functionalized; (b) about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic associative polymeric thickeners; (c) about 65 to about 85% by weight of water; (d) about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty compounds; (e) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more polysaccharides; and (f) about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents; wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the leave-in composition.
10. A method according to claim 1, comprising: (i) applying a hair treatment composition to the hair, leaving the hair treatment composition on the hair for a period of time, and rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair; the hair treatment composition comprising: (a) about 1 to about 8% by weight of citric acid, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof; (b) about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of a cyclodextrin or a derivative thereof; wherein a combined total amount of (i)(a) and (i)(b) is about 2 to about 10% by weight; and (i)(a) and (i)(b) are individually combined with each other to form an intermediate composition in which (i)(a) is dissolved in (i)(b); and the intermediate composition is then combined with additional components of the hair treatment composition; (c) about 5 to about 20% by weight of one or more cyclic carbonates; (d) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more polysaccharides; (e) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents; (f) about 60 to about 85% by weight of water; and (g) optionally, one or more amino-functionalized silicones; wherein all weight percentages of (i) are based on a total weight of the hair treatment composition; (ii) after rinsing the hair treatment composition from the hair, applying a leave-in composition to the hair; the com no-rinse position including: (a) about 1 to about 12% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones; (b) about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more film-forming polymers selected from polyurethanes; (c) about 65 to about 85% by weight of water; (d) about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty compounds; (e) about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more polysaccharides; and (f) about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents; wherein all weight percentages of (ii) are based on a total weight of the leave-on composition.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Hair care composition
EP0530974A1