Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid and natural polymer

Abstract

Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid and natural polymer. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: - at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one carrageenan, and - the composition being substantially free of an oil phase and substantially free of a gelling agent other than carrageenan, said composition having a pH between 5 and 7. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid and natural polymer

[0001] The present invention relates to a transparent aqueous cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0002] - at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition,

[0003] - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of composition,

[0004] - at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of composition of at least one carrageenan, and

[0005] - the composition being substantially free of fat phase and substantially free from gelling agents other than carrageenan,

[0006] said composition having a pH between 5 and 7.

[0007] In cosmetic applications, it is common to add ascorbic acid (vitamin C) as a skin-regenerating active ingredient by stimulating collagen synthesis, which is responsible for skin firmness, or as a depigmenting agent, since this vitamin reduces the production of melanin, which causes brown spots. Ascorbic acid is also known for its antioxidant properties.

[0008] However, when ascorbic acid is introduced into an aqueous medium (such as emulsions or serums) at high concentrations (i.e., for example, above 1% by weight, preferably above 5% by weight), its formulation becomes difficult to achieve because it destabilizes and changes color drastically. This color change can even result in a brown discoloration, which is unacceptable to the consumer.

[0009] This is why aqueous compositions such as serums or solutions, containing ascorbic acid in powder form for immediate solubilization, are available on the market. The drawback of this type of product is that vitamin C eventually degrades in the aqueous environment. These products thus lose their appeal because consumers, for reasons of convenience, prefer serums that require no prior preparation, guaranteeing color stability and preventing chemical degradation.

[0010] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that can thus meet these environmental challenges.

[0011] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0012] There is therefore a need for an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising ascorbic acid which is stable, i.e. which remains the same color as originally (generally white) and the same texture, and which does not degrade the active ingredient.

[0013] Surprisingly, the Applicant has demonstrated that natural polymers of the carrageenan type, used in a content of at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, make it possible to obtain stable transparent compositions comprising at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and which exhibit good sensory appeal upon application.

[0014] Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0015] - at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0016] - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of composition,

[0017] - at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of composition of at least one carrageenan, and

[0018] - the composition being substantially free of fat phase and substantially free from gelling agents other than carrageenan,

[0019] said composition having a pH between 5 and 7.

[0020] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0021] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous solution, more preferably an aqueous solution with a slightly gel-like appearance. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is monophasic. This composition may be called a "serum." By "serum," we mean a composition with a fluid texture, a slightly gel-like appearance, and which flows easily, and is preferably concentrated in ascorbic acid (i.e., preferably at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid).

[0022] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of surfactants. By "substantially free of surfactants," it is understood that the composition according to the invention has a surfactant content of between 0.01% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight. The surfactants may preferably be peptizers, the concentration of which is between 0.01% and 3% by weight; they allow the solubilization of a small amount of oil(s) or lipophilic compounds or perfume(s) (i.e., a concentration of perfume(s) or oil(s) or lipophilic compound(s) between 0.01% and 2%). The surfactant is preferably chosen from among nonionic surfactants. Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from among polyglycerol esters and of C8-C12 fatty acids, acylglucosides and mixtures thereof; preferably it is selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 4 Cl glycerol and fatty acid motifs, cocoglucoside and mixtures thereof; preferably it is selected from poly-glycerol-4 caprate, cocoglucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0023] Preferably, according to an alternative, the composition according to the invention is totally free of surfactants.

[0024] The composition according to the invention is substantially free of fat phase. By "substantially free of fat phase," it is understood that the composition according to the invention has a fat phase content of less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of fat phase.

[0025] The composition according to the invention is substantially free of gelling agents other than carrageenan. By "substantially free of gelling agents other than carrageenan," it is understood that the composition according to the invention has a gelling agent content other than carrageenan of less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of gelling agents other than carrageenan.Gelling agents other than carrageenan are notably chosen from among natural gums such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, cellulose gum; carbomers; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or hydroxymethylcellulose; alginates; and polymers and copolymers comprising a monomer of 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS). Aqueous phase

[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises water, which constitutes the aqueous phase.

[0027] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or a natural thermal or mineral water.

[0028] The composition comprises at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight.

[0029] The composition preferably comprises from 30% to 93% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 50% to 90%, and even more preferably from 55% to 75%.

[0030] The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one soluble organic solvent in water, at 25°C.

[0031] Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof.

[0032] Among alcohols, we can mention alcohols in the form of Ci-Cio, more preferably in the form of Ci-C5, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0033] The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide motifs and their mixtures.

[0034] Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvent is chosen from polyols, preferably glycerol and / or hexylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol.

[0035] Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 25% by weight of water-soluble organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 2% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight. Ascorbic acid

[0036] Ascorbic acid, as defined in the invention, preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. Its structure is as follows: (I)

[0037] [Chem.l]

[0038] The composition comprises at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably at least 7% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight.

[0039] Preferably, the composition comprises 5% to 20% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 7% to 20% by weight, more preferably 10% to 15% by weight. Carrageenan

[0040] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total composition weight of at least one carrageenan.

[0041] Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinaceae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae, and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. Linear polymers, formed by disaccharide motifs, are composed of two D-galactopyranoses linked alternately by α(1,3) and α(1,4) linkages. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%), and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in the 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of ester-sulfate groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which possess one ester-sulfate group; iota-carrageenans, which possess two ester-sulfate groups; and lambda-carrageenans, which possess three ester-sulfate groups.

[0042] Carrageenans are essentially composed of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine, and / or calcium salts and sulfate esters of polysaccharides.

[0043] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one iota-carrageenan.

[0044] Carrageenans are marketed in particular by the company Seppic under the name Solagum, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel, Carralact, and Carrasol, by the company Cargill under the names SATIAGEL™ and SATIAGUM™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names GENULACTA, GENUGEL and GENUVISCO.

[0045] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total composition weight of at least one carrageenan, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.2% by weight.

[0046] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total composition weight of at least one carrageenan, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight. pH of the composition

[0047] The composition according to the invention has a pH of 5.0 to 7.0. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 5.5 and 6.5.

[0048] Such a pH effectively limits the degradation of the color of ascorbic acid, and thus limits the transformation of a colorless composition into a composition that becomes yellow to brown over time.

[0049] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base.

[0050] The base is notably used to increase the final pH of the composition between 5.0 and 7.0, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5.

[0051] The base can be chosen from mineral bases such as, for example, alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0052] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, preferably Sodium hydroxide. Indeed, these bases are more advantageous than nitrogenous bases, such as triethanolamine, for color stabilization (i.e., less yellowing).

[0053] Preferably, the base of the composition according to the invention is present in a weight ratio base:ascorbic acid ranging from 0.22 to 0.30.

[0054] The composition may also include one or more additive(s) commonly used in cosmetic compositions such as active ingredients, sequestrants, preservatives or perfumes.

[0055] Preferably, among the usable active ingredients, anti-aging active ingredients are preferred, in particular such as adenosine, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and / or tocopherol, or perfumes.

[0056] The composition according to the invention may include at least one sequestrant.

[0057] Among the preferred sequestrants, we can mention the salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.

[0058] Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is a compound of formula (II):

[0059] [Chem.3] h TV OH HO '0 (II)

[0060] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.07% to 0.3% by weight of sequestrant, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] The composition according to the invention may include at least one preservative.

[0062] Among the preferred preservatives, we can mention hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol and their mixtures.

[0063] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 1% by weight of preservative(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is transparent.

[0065] For the purposes of this invention, a transparent composition is defined as a composition having a turbidity value of less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU, preferably less than 50 NTU, preferably less than 15 NTU, preferably less than 13 NTU, and preferably less than 10 NTU. Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is at least equal to 1 NTU.

[0066] NTUs (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units of measurement of the Turbidity of a composition. Turbidity measurement is carried out, for example, with a Hach Company model 2100P turbidimeter, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are carried out at room temperature (from 20°C to 25°C).

[0067] Preferably, the composition is transparent and has a turbidity value between 1 and 15 NTU, preferably between 1 and 13 NTU.

[0068] Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0069] Concrete, but by no means limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given. EXAMPLES

[0070] In the examples, pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated. Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of the total weight of composition (% w / w).

[0071] Example 1: Compositions according to the invention and comparative compositions

[0072] A / Formulas A and B are prepared according to the invention below, and the comparative ICC formula, according to the following protocol:

[0073] In a first beaker (phase A):

[0074] 1 Introduce water (T>60°C) and add the ingredients of phase A: glycerin, caprylyl glycol, preservative(s), sequestrant, pentylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate and active ingredient at 60°C;

[0075] 2 Once everything has dissolved and there are no more crystals, allow to cool.

[0076] In a second beaker (phase B):

[0077] 1 Introduce water at room temperature and add ascorbic acid;

[0078] 2 Adjust the pH to 6 with sodium hydroxide;

[0079] 3 Add the carrageenan or polyquaternium-67 with medium stirring and long enough to ensure efficient polymer deployment.

[0080]

[0081] Mix the two beakers and make the QS in water if necessary.

[0082] The evaluation of transparency is carried out by means of a physical measurement of turbidity by means of to a turbidimeter. A formula is considered transparent if the turbidity value is less than 15 NTU.

[0083] The stickiness and slipperiness are assessed using an in vitro test on synthetic skin (SkinFX), on a scale of 1 to 5, by a laboratory panel of 10 people. The stickiness and slipperiness results of the serum are compared.

[0084] For stickiness, 1 being non-sticky and 5 being very sticky.

[0085] For the slippery, 1 being non-slippery and 5 very slippery, considering that the skin nude is valued at 3. - Evaluation of the stickiness of the formulas during application: evaluation at 45 seconds and 2 minutes 45 seconds after application:

[0086] The decrease in stickiness of fresh formulas upon application is measured: evaluation 45 sec after application of the stickiness by a panel of 10 experts trained to reproduce a standardized evaluation gesture including the limit formulas (evaluation scale from 1 to 5, 1 being not sticky and 5 very sticky).

[0087] The protocol for evaluating the tights is as follows: 50 lp of the product is applied to the back of a hand covered with a membrane that mimics the characteristics of skin. With three fingers of the other hand (index, middle, and ring fingers), 15 circles are made in 15 seconds. Then, after waiting 15 seconds, repeat the 15 circles in 15 seconds.

[0088] The evaluation of the sticky is done after 45 seconds with the applicator fingers, by tactile evaluation, tapping twice.

[0089] The skin adheres or not according to a rating between 1 and 5 (according to the rating scale of 1 to 5, 1 being not sticky and 5 very sticky). The ratings are carried out by a panel of at least 10 experts.

[0090] Rinse fingers between each product with a cloth moistened with warm water. - Evaluation of the formula's slippage during application: evaluation at 45 seconds and 2 minutes 45 seconds after application:

[0091] The increase in the slipperiness of fresh formulas upon application is also measured: evaluation 45 seconds after application of the slipperiness by a panel of 10 experts trained to reproduce a standardized evaluation gesture including the boundary formulas (evaluation scale from 1 to 5, 1 being non-slippery and 5 very slippery).

[0092] The slipperiness evaluation protocol is as follows: 50 lp of product are applied to the back of a hand covered with a membrane that mimics skin characteristics. With three fingers of the other hand (index, middle, and ring fingers), 15 rotations are performed in 15 seconds. Then, after waiting 15 seconds, repeat the 15 rotations in 15 seconds.

[0093] The evaluation of the glide is done after 45 seconds with the applicator fingers, by tactile evaluation, it is verified that it is possible to make circular movements during the application.

[0094] The skin grips or not according to a rating between 1 and 5 (according to the evaluation scale of 1 to 5, 1 being non-slip and 5 very slippery). The evaluations are carried out by a panel of a minimum of 10 experts.

[0095] Rinse your fingers between each product with a cloth moistened with warm water. - Physico-chemical and chemical stability over time and temperature at room temperature or RT. ie 25°C. and at 45°C) at 2 months

[0096] [Tables 1] Ingredients (% w / w) Formula A Formula B ILC Formula Phase Sodium Hydroxide (caustic soda) Qs pH = 6 Qs pH = 6 Qs pH = 6 B Ascorbic Acid 12 12 12 B Glycerin 5 5 5 A Pentylene Glycol 8 8 8 A Caprylyl Glycol Qs Qs Qs A Preservative(s) Qs Qs Qs A Sodium Hyaluronate 0.05 0.05 0.05 A Sequestrant 0.074 0.074 0.074 A Anti-aging (firming) active ingredient 0.10 0.10 0.10 A Carrageenan (Cargill's Satiagel VPC 508) 0.50 0.40 - B Polyquatemium-67 (Amerchol's Softcat Polymer SL-100, “PQ-67” for short) - - 0.23 B Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 A

[0097] ma: active ingredient

[0098] [Tables2] Properties Formula A Formula B ILC Formula Appearance after 2 months at room temperature / and at 45°C Clear gel / Clear gel Clear gel / Clear gel Clear gel / Clear gel pH after 2 months at room temperature / and at 45°C 6.3 / 6.5 6.0 / 6.4 6.1 / 6.6 Viscosity after 2 months at room temperature / viscosity after 2 months of storage at 45°C (in Pa.s) 0.266 / 0.202 0.138 / 0.114 0.034 / 0.010 Turbidity (in NTU) 6 9 3 Ascorbic acid content after 2 months at 45°C <10% loss <10% loss <10% loss Reduction in stickiness at 45" vs ILC (in %) -22.7 -36.4 0 Reduction in stickiness at 2'45" vs CCI (in %) -22.2 -19.4 0 Increase in slide at 45” vs CCI (in %) 32.4 29.4 0 Increase in slide at 2'45” vs CCI (in %) 15.8 10.5 0 Viscosity measurement protocol:

[0099] The compositions are tested for their stability after 2 months at room temperature and after 2 months of storage at 45°C.

[0100] The viscosity of the composition is measured using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM 100 PLUS from Lamy Rheology (equipped with a thermostatic bath), according to method CID-012-02.

[0101] Conclusion: the different carrageenan levels according to the invention make it possible to obtain a transparent serum that is physico-chemically and chemically stable (i.e., loss less than 10% after assay of ascorbic acid at T2 months at 45°C).

[0102] The physico-chemical and chemical stabilities are identical between formulas A and B according to the invention (with 0.5% and 0.4% by weight of carrageenan) and the comparative formula CCI; on the other hand, the sensory evaluations are improved for formulas A and B according to the invention (i.e. in the presence of carrageenan).

[0103] B / The comparative formula CC2 below, which contains 7% ascorbic acid and 0.5% carrageenan, but also an oily phase (phases C and D), is opaque: turbidity > 1000 NTU:

[0104] [Tables3] Phases Phase A Ingredients CC2 (% w / w) Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol 9 Pentylene glycol 3 Water q.s. 100 Glycerin 12 Propanediol 2.25 Sequestrant 0.093 Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine (Pellicer LB-30G by Asahi Kasei) 0.35 Phase B Sodium Hyaluronate 0.5 Carrageenan (Satiagel VPC 508 by Cargill) 0.5 Phase C Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Eldew SL-205 by Ajinomoto) 5 Isononyl Isononanoate 5 Glyceryl Stearate 3 PEG-40 Stearate (Tego Acid S40P by Evonik Goldschmidt) 2.4 Sucrose Tristearate (Ryoto Sugar Ester S 370 by Mitsubishi Chemicals) 1.08 Stearic acid 1.2 Preservative(s) Qs Phase D Isododecane 3.5 Fragrance Qs Phase E Boron nitride (Baron Nitride Powder TRES BN PUHP 3002 from Saint Gobain Ce ramies) 0.5 Lauroyl lysine (Amihope LL from Ajinomoto) 2 Phase F Ascorbic acid 7 Sodium hydroxide 1.62 Water 10

[0105] Example 2: Compositions according to the invention and comparative compositions

[0106] The 5 Formulas C to G are prepared according to the invention below (according to the protocol of example 1), and they are compared to the comparative Formula CCI of example 1.

[0107] [Tables4] Ingredients (% w / w) Formula C Formula D Formula E Formula F Formula G Phase Sodium Hydroxide (caustic soda) Qs pH = 6 Qs pH = 6 Qs pH = 6 Qs pH = 6 Qs pH = 6 B Ascorbic Acid 12 12 12 12 12 B Glycerin 5 5 5 5 5 A Pentylene Glycol 8 8 8 8 8 A Caprylyl Glycol Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs A Preservative(s) Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs A Sodium Hyaluronate 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 A Sequestrant 0.074 0.074 0.074 0.074 0.074 A Anti-aging (firming) active ingredient 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 A Carrageenan (Satiagel VPC 508 from Cargill) 0.40 0.40 0.30 0.40 0.30 B Coco-glucoside (Plantacare 818 UP from BASF) 0.80 1.2 1.5 1.5 1.5 C Polyglyceryl-4 caprate (TEGOSOFT PC 41 from Evonik Goldschmidt) 0.50 0.50 - 1.5 1.5 C Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 A

[0108] ma: active ingredient

[0109] [Tables5] Properties after 2 months at room temperature and 45°C Formula C Formula D Formula E Formula F Formula G Formula CCI Reduction in stickiness at 45” vs CCI (in %) -22.7 -27.3 -31.8 -31.8 -22.7 0 Reduction in stickiness at 2'45” vs CCI (in %) -11.1 -5.6 2.8 -8.3 -25.0 0 Increase in slip at 45” vs CCI (in %) 23.5 20.6 29.4 11.8 35.3 0 Increase in slip at 2'45” vs CCI (in %) 0 -21.1 26.3 5.3 -15.8 0

[0110] Conclusion: the addition of coco-glucoside surfactants and / or polyglyceryl-4 caprate to the different carrageenan levels according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a transparent serum that is physico-chemically and chemically stable (i.e. loss less than 10% after assay of ascorbic acid at T2 months at 45°C).

[0111] All sensory evaluations are improved for formulas C to G according to the invention (i.e. in the presence of carrageenan and coco-glucoside and / or polyglyceryl-4 caprate surfactants) compared with CCI.

[0112] Some of these evaluations are also improved compared to formulas A and B (with 0.5% and 0.4% by weight of carrageenan but without surfactant).

[0113] The underlined values ​​in Table 5 show a reduction in stickiness or an increase in slipperiness greater than the CCI formula (with PQ-67) and even than formula A according to the invention (i.e. with 0.5% carrageenan and without surfactant).

[0114] The two values ​​in italics in Table 5 show a reduction in stickiness equivalent to the CCI formula (with PQ-67) and also to formula A according to the invention.

[0115] The three values ​​in bold in Table 5 show a reduction in stickiness or an increase in slipperiness greater than the CCI formula (with PQ-67) and even than formula B according to the invention (i.e. with 0.4% carrageenan and without surfactant).

[0116] The single value of 29.4 in Table 5 shows a reduction in stickiness equivalent to the CCI formula (with PQ-67) and also to formula B according to the invention.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: - at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition, - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of composition, - at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of composition of at least one carrageenan, and - the composition being substantially free of fatty phase and substantially free of gelling agent other than carrageenan, said composition having a pH of between 5 and 7.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is monophasic.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it has a fatty phase content of less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably it is completely free of fatty phase.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is substantially free of surfactant; preferably, it has a content of surfactant(s) of between 0.01% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably of between 0.1% and 2% by weight; the surfactant is preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, preferably from esters of polyglycerol and C8-C12 fatty acid, acylglucosides and mixtures thereof; preferably from esters of polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol units and C1 fatty acid, cocoglucoside and mixtures thereof; preferably from polyglycerol-4 caprate, cocoglucoside and mixtures thereof; preferably the composition is completely free of surfactants.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 30% to 93% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 50% to 90%, even more preferably from 55% to 75%.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C, preferably chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof; preferably the composition comprises from 1% to 25% by weight of water-soluble organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 2% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 7% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably at least 10% by weight; preferably it comprises from 5% to 20% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 7% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one carrageenan chosen from kappa-carrageenans, iota-carrageenans and lambda-carrageenans, preferably the composition comprises at least one iota-carrageenan.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one carrageenan, preferably at least 0.2% by weight; preferably the composition comprises from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one carrageenan, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a pH of between 5.5 and 6.

5.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one sequestrant, preferably chosen from the salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is transparent; preferably it has a turbidity value of less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU, preferably less than 50 NTU, preferably less than 15 NTU, preferably less than 13 NTU, preferably less than 10 NTU, preferably at least equal to 1 NTU; and preferably between 1 and 15 NTU, preferably between 1 and 13 NTU.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a gelling agent content other than carrageenan in- less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight; preferably the composition is completely free of gelling agent other than carrageenan; preferably the gelling agent other than carrageenan is chosen from natural gums such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, cellulose gum; carbomers; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or hydroxymethylcellulose; alginates; and polymers and copolymers comprising a 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid monomer.

14. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to one of the preceding claims.