ECO-BIOLOGICAL TOPICAL COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR COMBATING REDNESS AND SKIN DISCOMFORT

Abstract

The invention relates to a topical composition, preferably ecobiological, comprising: i) at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose; ii) creatinine; and its use to combat redness and skin discomfort by acting on cutaneous hypervascularization.

Description

Title of the invention: ECOBIOLOGICAL TOPICAL COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR COMBATING REDNESS AND SKIN DISCOMFORT Technical field of the invention

[0001] The invention relates to the field of topical compositions, in particular cosmetic or dermatological compositions, advantageously ecobiological, and their use for the prevention and treatment of inflammatory skin disorders or conditions, in particular in the context of skin prone to redness or suffering from rosacea. More specifically, the invention relates to a composition, advantageously ecobiological, capable of combating redness and skin discomfort, and / or preventing and treating rosacea and / or telangiectasia, by acting on cutaneous hypervascularization. Technological background

[0002] The skin constitutes the main barrier that separates the organism from the external environment and is composed of the superposition of three main layers, respectively from the deepest to the most superficial: the hypodermis, the dermis and the epidermis colonized by the microbiota which is often considered as the last cutaneous layer. Due to its constant interaction with the environment, the skin undergoes multiple attacks (viruses, bacteria, UV, chemical attacks, extreme temperatures, etc.) which alter its balance. In parallel with these exogenous attacks, each individual presents internal factors having an impact on the health of the skin, namely, genetic heritage or hormones.

[0003] These different exogenous and endogenous factors generate sometimes significant differences between individuals in the levels of skin irritability, and can be the cause of dermatological pathologies, in particular inflammatory skin conditions.

[0004] Thus, a growing part of the population perceives their skin as subject to redness, often chronic.

[0005] Skin redness, also known as erythema, is a common condition characterized by an abnormal red or pink discoloration of the skin. It can be caused by various factors such as sun exposure, vascular abnormalities, allergic reactions, irritation, or hormonal changes.

[0006] In its chronic form, redness is generally referred to as rosacea. Rosacea and related dermatological conditions are quite widespread in populations, particularly in industrialized countries. Indeed, the prevalence of rosacea remains very Varies between the populations studied and age. In Europe, the affected population is estimated at between 2 and 10%. More specifically, in Germany the prevalence is estimated at 12.3%, in England at 1.8%, in the United States at 1.34%, and in France between 2 and 3%. Epidemiological studies show that people with light skin and eyes are mostly affected. However, populations with phototypes V and VI can also be affected.

[0007] Rosacea is divided into subtypes with different manifestations; the evolution between different subtypes is not common. Subtype I is manifested by persistent redness (called "erythrosis"), flushing and vascular lines ("telangiectasias"); subtype II by erythrosis, skin inflammation and burning sensations; in subtype III there is thickening of the epidermis and hypertrophy of the skin, mainly in the area of ​​the nose, a condition called "rhinophyma"; subtype IV is characterized by burning sensations and ocular involvement.

[0008] A key aspect shared by all of these disorders is hypervascularization, which occurs when blood vessels in the skin become excessively numerous, dilated, and visible.

[0009] The permanent dilation of the small vessels of the dermis is due, among other things, to a proangiogenic epidermal factor called VEGF (for Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor). This factor is also a powerful vasodilator and vasopermeabilizer and is overexpressed in skin affected by rosacea. In addition, it causes the production of matrix metalloproteases in the dermis which degrade the dermal fibers supporting the blood vessels. This degradation phenomenon induces a relaxation of the support of the vessel walls and therefore accentuates their fragility.

[0010] Hypervascularized skin is generally more sensitive and reactive, resulting in itching, irritation, or even pain. In addition to sensory symptoms, skin hypervascularization usually has aesthetic implications. Areas of hypervascularized skin remain red, even when the skin is not inflamed, and may have visible blood vessels as red lines. In some cases, this can affect the self-confidence and quality of life of affected individuals.

[0011] Rosacea is often accompanied by considerable psychological suffering in affected individuals, particularly in more severe cases which are affected by permanent redness.

[0012] In the management of all these skin disorders, the reduction of redness, which mainly involves a reduction in hypervascularization, remains one of the main objectives, but the available topical compositions are generally not very effective on this axis. The laser is effective in treating vascular abnormalities for rosacea subtypes I and II, but the results are not long-lasting and patients generally relapse. There is therefore a clear need to develop a topical composition, preferably ecobiological, comprising active compounds that are safe for human topical use and capable of effectively and sustainably combating redness, associated skin discomfort, rosacea and / or telangiectasia by reducing cutaneous hypervascularization. Brief description of the invention

[0013] Surprisingly, the Applicant, pursuing its ecobiological approach to action on the cause of skin disorders, has found that a combination of compounds, safe and suitable for human topical use, act in synergy to meet these needs. In particular, the Applicant has found that the topical active ingredients according to the invention make it possible to reduce neo-angiogenesis induced by VEGF in a coculture model of endothelial cells (HMVEC) and human fibroblasts.

[0014] Thus and according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a topical composition, advantageously ecobiological, comprising: (i) at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose; ii) creatinine.

[0015] Creatinine (2-Amino-l-methylimidazol-4-ol or l-methylhydantoin-2-imide; CAS number: 60-27-5) is an amino acid derivative found in all organisms on Earth. In humans, it is produced as a result of non-enzymatic conversion from creatine phosphate and is excreted by the kidneys. The amount of creatinine excretion is proportional to muscle mass and is approximately constant for a particular individual. Creatinine is present in meat extract and meat broth cubes.

[0016] Heteropolymers of glucose and trehalose are found naturally in several plants, such as potato or tapioca roots, from which they can be extracted by liquefaction, heating, filtration and concentration. In plants these polymers serve as a form of carbon storage and energy source.

[0017] For the purposes of the invention, the term "topical active ingredient" means a substance or compound, preferably ecobiological, capable of being applied topically, in particular to the skin, and which has biological properties which underlie a physiological, cosmetic and / or therapeutic effect.

[0018] The topical active ingredient is to be differentiated from at least one excipient, present in the composition according to the invention.

[0019] For the purposes of the invention, the term “excipient” means a substance other than the topical active ingredient, preferably ecobiological, which gives the composition properties, in particular, of consistency, galenic and / or vectorization of the topical active ingredient.

[0020] It is clear from the above that the topical composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention makes it possible to relieve the discomfort and inconvenience of skin prone to redness, or even suffering from rosacea or related skin pathologies. In particular, the composition according to the invention reduces the intensity of redness, soothes (reduction of tightness and sensations of roughness) and hydrates the skin. Thus, the present invention makes it possible to meet a real cosmetic and / or dermatological need.

[0021] In the context of the invention, the term "ecobiological approach" refers to the particular approach initiated and developed by the inventor which combines cutaneous biology and ecosystem to help the skin live according to its natural biology, over the long term.

[0022] In the context of the invention, the expressions “ecobiological composition”, “ecobiological compound”, “ecobiological ingredient”, “ecobiological active ingredient” or “ecobiological excipient” respectively designate a composition, a compound, an ingredient or an excipient that is respectful of the person, of their interactions with the world, and of the planet. In particular, they designate a composition, a compound, an ingredient, an active ingredient or even an excipient that is respectful of the communities of living cells constituting the skin and its ecosystem (i.e. cutaneous microbiota, keratinocytes, sebocytes, fibroblasts, etc.) which constantly interact with each other and with their environment.

[0023] In the context of the invention, the term "triazine-derived sunscreen" denotes a molecule capable of filtering UV-A and / or UV-B rays and comprising at least one aromatic heterocycle containing three nitrogen atoms. The triazine derivative may therefore correspond in particular to a 1,2,4-triazine, a 1,3,5-triazine or a 1,2,3-triazine.

[0024] In the context of the invention, the term “organic UVA filter” means any organic filter absorbing mainly or exclusively in UVA.

[0025] In the context of the invention, the term "solubilizer of lipophilic organic UV filters" denotes a compound which makes it possible to solubilize, disperse and / or dissolve at least one lipophilic organic UV filter in an effective and lasting manner, that is to say by stabilizing it in its solubilized form and by preventing or reducing its recrystallization or precipitation in the formulation throughout the duration of use of the product (generally, the product must be stable for at least 1 year after its opening).

[0026] In the context of the invention, the term “O / W emulsifier” denotes a compound having emulsifying properties enabling oil-in-water emulsions to be produced.

[0027] For the purposes of the invention, the term “W / O emulsifier” means a compound having emulsifying properties enabling water-in-oil emulsions to be produced.

[0028] In the context of the invention, by "two-phase composition" or "two-phase composition", or even "two-phase care" is meant a composition in the form of two continuous phases, immiscible at rest. Two-phase compositions can give rise to extemporaneous emulsions when shaken, but they undergo a phase separation at rest following which the two phases, advantageously the fatty phase and the aqueous phase, become separated. In the context of the invention, by "molecular weight (Mw)", is meant the weight-average molecular weight (Mw or Molecular Weight) of a compound, or polymer.

[0029] In the context of the invention, the term "topical composition" or "composition for cutaneous application" or "for topical use" denotes a composition compatible with application to the surface of the body, in particular to the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp, preferably human skin.

[0030] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has the following additional technical characteristics, taken alone or in combination:

[0031] - the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose according to the invention is a mixture of oligosaccharides each consisting of one, two, three or four glucose residues linked to a trehalose residue;

[0032] - the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose according to the invention is a mixture of several oligosaccharides comprising maltotriosyl glucoside in an amount of between 40% and 90% by total weight of the mixture, advantageously between 50% and 80% by weight of the mixture;

[0033] - the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose according to the invention comprises the combination of maltriosyl glucoside and maltotetrasyl glucoside, said combination preferably representing between 10% and 40% by total weight of said heteropolymer, and the combination of maltotetraitol and maltotriiol, said combination preferably representing between 15% and 25% by total weight of said heteropolymer;

[0034] - the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose according to the invention corresponds with the INCI designations maltooligosyl glucoside and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate;

[0035] - the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose according to the invention corresponds to the cosmetic raw material MG-60 marketed by the company NAGASE LTD;

[0036] - the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose according to the invention can be obtained by chemical synthesis, by biotechnology, or, preferably, by extraction from plant material, advantageously by extraction from roots, preferably from potato root (Solanum tuberosum) and / or tapioca (Manihot esculentd);

[0037] - at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose, advantageously corresponding to the INCI designation maltooligosyl glucoside and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, represents between 0.0001% and 10% by weight of the composition according to the invention, preferably between 0.01% and 5%;

[0038] - the creatinine according to the invention corresponds to the INCI designation 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide;

[0039] - the creatinine according to the invention can be obtained by extraction, by biotechnology, or, preferably, by chemical synthesis;

[0040] - the creatinine according to the invention has a purity greater than 70%, preferably 80%, advantageously 95%, or even 99%;

[0041] - the creatinine according to the invention corresponds to the cosmetic raw material TEGOCOSMO C 250 marketed by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH;

[0042] - creatinine, advantageously corresponding to the INCI designation 1- methylhydantoin-2-imide, represents between 0.0001% and 10% by weight of the composition according to the invention, preferably between 0.01% to 5%, even more advantageously between 0.1% and 1%;

[0043] - The weight ratio between the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose and trehalose and creatinine in the compositions according to the invention is between 10:1 and 1:2, advantageously between 5:1 and 1:1;

[0044] - the composition according to the invention further comprises a topical active ingredient additional chosen from:

[0045] - polyglutamic acid or one of its salts;

[0046] - a polyol, advantageously chosen from xylitol, sorbitol and mannitol;

[0047] - an additional sugar or oligosaccharide, advantageously chosen from fructooligosaccharides and rhamnose;

[0048] - glycyrrhetinic acid or one of its derivatives or salts;

[0049] -a peptide derivative selected from the group consisting of: α-L-glutamyltryptamine, L-tryptophantryptamine and L-methionyltryptamine, advantageously α-L-glutamyltryptamine (INCI glutamylamidoethyl indole);

[0050] -acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester;

[0051] -squalane or one of its derivatives;

[0052] -hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or derivatives;

[0053] -ectoin;

[0054] - jojoba oil; and

[0055] - their mixtures;

[0056] -polyglutamic acid or one of its salts according to the invention has a molecular weight (Mw) between 0.1 MDa and 20 MDa, advantageously between 1 MDa and 5 MDa;

[0057] - the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts according to the invention has a molecular weight (Mw) between 0.01 kDa and 10 kDa, advantageously between 0.1 kDa and 5 kDa;

[0058] - the polyglutamic acid according to the invention or one of its salts according to the invention is poly-y-glutamic acid, advantageously the potassium salt of poly-y-glutamic acid;

[0059] - polyglutamic acid or one of its salts according to the invention corresponds to the following INCI name: polyglutamic acid, sodium polyglutamate, natto gum, or potassium hydrolyzed polygamma glutamate;

[0060] - the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts according to the invention is of origin synthetic, plant or microbiological, such as poly-y-glutamic acid synthesized by Bacillus subtilis subsp. Chungkookjang or other similar bacterial strains;

[0061] -polyglutamic acid or one of its salts according to the invention corresponds to the raw materials AminoPGALE®-301 marketed by Toyobo Co. LTD; AquaMaxTM HM marketed by CP Kelco; Sodium Polyglutamate marketed by Vedan Biotechnology Corporation; TEGO® Cosmo PGA marketed by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH; or Gamma-Max or Gamma-Oligo marketed by Rahn corporation. Preferably, it is the raw material Gamma-Oligo marketed by Rahn corporation;

[0062] - polyglutamic acid or one of its pre salts according to the invention represents between 0.001% and 10% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.05% and 1%;

[0063] - hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or derivatives according to the invention has a weight molecular weight (Mw) between 0.1 kDa and 2MDa, preferably between 400 and 600 kDa; For example, the raw materials PRIMALHYAL™ 300 (SOLIANCE), HyaCare 50 BIO (EVONIK) or SODIUM HYALURONATE POWDER VLMW (BIOLAND) can be used in the composition according to the invention;

[0064] - hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or derivatives according to the invention may have a degree of purity, preferably, of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95% or even at least 99% by weight;

[0065] - the hyaluronic acid salts according to the invention correspond to the sodium salts, potassium or magnesium, preferably sodium salts;

[0066] - hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or derivatives according to the invention represents between 0.001% and 10% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.05% and 0.5%;

[0067] - the peptide derivative according to the invention, advantageously α-L-glutamyltryptamine, represents between 0.00001% and 10% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.0001% and 1%;

[0068] -1' aL-glutamyltryptamine according to the invention corresponds to L-glutamyl- amidoethylimidazole as well as the INCI designation glutamylamidoethyl indole;

[0069] - the peptide derivative according to the invention corresponds to the cosmetic raw material GLISTIN marketed by the company EXSYMOL under the INCI name glutamylamidoethyl indole (and) propanediol (and) aqua;

[0070] -the composition of the invention comprises a mass ratio between the at least one peptide derivative and the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts of between 1:200 and 1:10, advantageously between 1:100 and 1:30;

[0071] - glycyrrhetinic acid or one of its derivatives or salts according to the invention is under pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight;

[0072] - glycyrrhetinic acid or one of its derivatives or salts represents between 0.01% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.1% and 1%.

[0073] - the xylitol according to the invention is in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight;

[0074] - the xylitol according to the invention represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%;

[0075] - the mannitol according to the invention is in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight;

[0076] - mannitol represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%;

[0077] - the rhamnose according to the invention is in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight;

[0078] - rhamnose represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1% the fructooligosaccharides (FOS) according to the invention are in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight;

[0079] - fructooligosaccharides represent between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%;

[0080] - the jojoba oil according to the invention corresponds to VINCI: Simmondsia sinensis (jojoba) seed oil. This vegetable oil, characterized by known emollient properties, is available from several suppliers of cosmetic raw materials;

[0081] - the squalane according to the invention is of plant origin and characterized by a degree of purity greater than 90% by weight;

[0082] - the squalane according to the invention represents between 0.01% and 25% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 1% and 15%;

[0083] - the acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester according to the invention represents between 0.0001% and 2% in total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 1%;

[0084] - the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one sunscreen;

[0085] - the at least one sunscreen according to the invention is an organic sunscreen lipophilic, advantageously a triazine-derived sunscreen; Triazine-derived sunscreens suitable for use in a composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers. By way of example, the following raw materials may be used in the composition according to the invention:

[0086] TINOSORB™ S / TINOSORB™ AQUA (BASF) corresponding to the INCI designation bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (CAS number: 187393-00-6);

[0087] 1' UVASORB™ HEB (SIGMA 3V) corresponding to the INCI designation diethylhexyl butamido triazone (CAS number 154702-15-5);

[0088] TINOSORB™ A2B (BASF) corresponding to the INCI designation tris-biphenyl triazine (CAS no: 31274-51-8);

[0089] the commercialized UVINUL™ T150 (BASF) corresponding to the INCI designation ethylhexyl triazone (CAS number: 88122-99-0);

[0090] TRIASORB™ (PLANTS & INDUSTRY) corresponding to the INCI designation phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine (CAS number 55514-22-2);

[0091] UVASORB™ K2A (SIGMA 3V) corresponding to the INCI designation ethylhexyl bis-isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine (CAS number 288254-16-0);

[0092] 1,3,5-triazine derivatives corresponding to CAS numbers 2174063-28-4, 2174063-29-5 and 2174063-30-8, described in document EP 3275872; and

[0093] 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate diethyl)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate diisopropyl)-l,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate dimethyl)-1,3,5,triazine or 2,4,6-tris(a-cyano-4-aminocinnamate ethyl)-l,3,5-triazine. These molecules are described in document EP0507692.- the composition according to the invention further comprises at least two different triazine-derived sunscreens, or even at least three different triazine-derived sunscreens;

[0094] - the at least one solar filter according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of 1,2,4-triazine, 1,3,5-triazine, 1,2,3-triazine and mixtures thereof;

[0095] - the at least one solar filter according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, tris-biphenyl triazine, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine and ethylhexyl bis-isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine and mixtures thereof;

[0096] - the composition according to the invention comprises at least the sunscreens derived from triazine corresponding to the following INCI designations: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, and ethylhexyl triazone;

[0097] - at least one triazine-derived sunscreen represents between 2% and 50% in total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 5% and 40%, preferably between 10% and 30%;

[0098] - the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least one sunscreen triazine derivative, at least one organic UVA filter, which is in aqueous (hydrophilic) and / or oily (lipophilic) phase, advantageously selected from the group consisting of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and mixtures thereof;

[0099] - the composition according to the invention is free from the corresponding sunscreens with the following INCI designations: 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)camphor; 3-Benzylidenecamphor; benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or octocrylene;

[0100] - the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one mineral screen (or inorganic mineral filter), which corresponds in particular to a metal oxide and / or another compound which is difficult to dissolve or insoluble in water, in particular chosen from oxides of titanium (TiO2), zinc (ZnO), iron (Fe2O3), zirconium (ZrO2), silicon (SiO2), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (A12O3), or cerium (Ce2O3), bismuth trioxide (Bi2O3), and bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl);

[0101] - the composition according to the invention comprises at least one mineral screen chosen from the group consisting of compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and their mixtures, advantageously corresponding respectively to the following raw materials: Z-COTE™ LS A and T-Lite™ (BASF);

[0102] - at least one sun filter and / or mineral screen represents between 0.1 and 30% in total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.5 and 20%, preferably between 1 and 15%;

[0103] - the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one solubilizer of lipophilic organic UV filters, advantageously at least two solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters; Solubilizers suitable for use in a composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers. By way of example, the following raw materials can be used in the composition according to the invention:

[0104] - several raw materials from the CETIOL™ range (BASF), in particular CETIOL™ RLF, CETIOL™ B, CETIOL™ CC, CETIOL™ O, CETIOL™ C5, CETIOL™ AB, CETIOL™ SENSOFT, corresponding respectively to the INCI designations caprylyl caprylate / caprate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate;

[0105] -DUB™ DIS, DEA, DIBA, ZENOAT (STEARINE DUBOIS) corresponding respectively to the INCI designations diisopropyl sebacate, diethyl adipate, diisobutyl adipate and propanediol dicaprylate;

[0106] - MIGLYOL™ 8810 and T-C7 (IOI Oleo GmbH) corresponding respectively to INCI designations butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate e triheptanoin;

[0107] - Lexsolv™ A (INOLEX) corresponding to the INCI designations dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;

[0108] - the COSMACOL™ ELI, ETI, ESI and LL (SASOL) corresponding respectively with INCI designations Cl2-13 alkyl lactate, Cl2-13 alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate and lauryl lactate;

[0109] - Ceraphyl™ 41 ester (ASHLAND) corresponding to the INCI designations C12- C15 alkyl lactate;

[0110] - Finsolv™ EB and PG 22 (INNOSPEC) corresponding respectively to the INCI designations, ethylhexyl benzoate and dipropylene glycol dibenzoate; [YES] - CRODAMOL™ DA, DOA, OSU and PC (CRODA) corresponding respectively to the INCI designations diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate and propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate;

[0112] - the ELDEW™ SL-205 (AJINOMOTO) corresponding to the INCI designation isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate;

[0113] - Lexfeel™ Shine (INOLEX) corresponding to the INCI designation propylene glycol dibenzoate;

[0114] - TEGOSOFT™ XC and CT (EVONIK) corresponding to the INCI designation phenoxyethyl caprylate and caprylic / capric triglycerides;

[0115] - RONACARE™ AP (MERCK KGaA) corresponding to the INCI designation hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl malonate;

[0116] - the DERMOL™ IDSA marketed (Alzo INTL) corresponding to the designation INCI isodecyl salicylate;

[0117] - Spectrasolv™ DMDA (Hallstar) corresponding to the designation INCU dimethyl capramide; and

[0118] - X-TEND™ 226 (Ashland) corresponding to the INCI designation phenethyl benzoate.- the at least one or two solubilizer(s) of lipophilic organic UV filters according to the invention is selected from the group comprising the compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, caprylyl caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, Cl2-13 alkyl lactate, ethylhexyl benzoate, C12-C15 alkyl lactate, C12-13 alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate, lauryl lactate, diethyl adipate caprylic / capric triglicerides, diisobutyl adipate, düsopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate, propanediol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl maolnate, phenoxyethyl caprylate, isodecyl salicylate, dimethyl capramide and phenethyl benzoate;

[0119] - the composition according to the invention comprises at least the filter solubilizers lipophilic UV organics corresponding to the INCI designations: dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate and C12-C15 alkyl benzoate;

[0120] - the composition according to the invention comprises at least the filter solubilizers lipophilic UV organics corresponding to the INCI designations: dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate;

[0121] - the composition according to the invention comprises at least the filter solubilizers lipophilic UV organics corresponding to the INCI designations: dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate, propylheptyl caprylate and diisobutyl adipate;

[0122] - solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters represent between 5% and 80% in total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 10% and 70%, preferably between 15% and 60%;

[0123] - the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one emulsifier. For example, the raw materials EMULGIN SG (INCI: sodium stearoyl glutamate; BASF); EMULIUM 22 (INCI: tribehenin PEG-20 esters; GATTEFOSSE); SENSANOV WR (INCI: C20-22 alkylphosphate / C20-C22 alkyl alcohols; SEPPIC); MONTANOV L (INCI: C14-C22 alcohols / C12-20 alkyl glucoside), AMPHISOL K (INCI: potassium cetyl phosphate; DSM), MONTANOV 82 (INCI: cetearyl alcohol / coco-glucoside; SEPPIC) and TEGO™ Care PBS 6 MB (polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate) can be used in the composition according to the invention as O / W emulsifiers; and the raw materials Cithrol DPHS (CRODA) or Isolan GPS (EVONIK) can be used in the composition according to the invention as W / O emulsifiers;

[0124] - the emulsifier according to the invention is selected from the following group of compounds identified by their INCI designation: sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate, C20-22 alkyl phosphate / C20-C22 alkyl alcohols, tribehenin PEG-20 esters, C14-C22 alcohols / C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, coco-glucoside, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate and mixtures thereof;

[0125] - the at least one emulsifier represents between 0.1% and 5% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.5% and 3%;

[0126] - the composition according to the invention is presented in any galenic form normally used or usable in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, preferably compatible with the formulation of an oily phase;

[0127] - the composition according to the invention is presented in a galenic form suitable for topical application to the skin, mucous membranes and / or appendages;

[0128] - the composition according to the invention is in the form of an H / W emulsion or W / O, more or less fluid; of a multiple emulsion such as a triple emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O); of a vesicular dispersion of ionic type (liposomes) and / or non-ionic; of a two-phase composition devoid of emulsifiers and gelling agents whose immiscible phases separate during storage; of foam; of stick; of anhydrous oil; of aqueous solution without fatty phase, gelled or not; of spray or mist.

[0129] Another subject of the present invention relates to a composition according to the invention for its use in preventing and / or treating: - rosacea; and / or - telangiectasia.

[0130] Another object of the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic, advantageously cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention to combat redness and / or skin discomfort.

[0131] Yet another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care or cleansing of skin prone to redness, comprising the application to human skin of a composition according to the invention.

[0132] The manner in which the invention can be implemented and the advantages which result therefrom will become more apparent from the following examples of implementation, given for informational and non-limiting purposes. Description of figures

[0133] [Fig.l] . [Fig.l] shows the effect of the combination of the active ingredients according to the invention on the formation of pseudotubes in a cellular model of neoangiogenesis. MOG & HSH = Maltooligosyl Glucoside and Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate (heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose); 1-M-2-I = 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide or creatinine. Examples of achievements

[0134] Example 1: Cosmetic composition within the meaning of the invention - two-phase care

[0135] A composition according to the invention is described in table 1.

[0136] The percentages indicated correspond to the weight of the product indicated in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] [Tables 1] INCI Name Mixed % INCI AQUA / WATER / EAU QSP 100 TRIHEPTANOIN 19.00 C15-19 ALKANE 10.00 SODIUM CHLORIDE 3.01 GLYCERIN 2.10 SQUALANE 2.10 MALTOOLIGOSYL GLUCOSIDE and HYDROGENATED S TARCH HYDROLYSATE 1.50 SODIUM CITRATE 1.001 Cl3-15 ALKANE 0.60 1.2-HEXANEDIOL 0.50 1-METHYLHYDANTOIN-2-IMIDE 0.4 0 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.504 TOCOPHEROL 0.42 NATTO GUM 0.100 GLUTAMYLAMIDOETHYL INDOLE 0.100 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL 0.18 MANNITOL 0.10 XYLITOL 0.10 RHAMNOSE 0.10 CITRIC ACID 0.03731 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0.03626 XANTHAN GUM 0.0301 o-CYMEN-5-OL 0.027

[0138] Example 2: Cosmetic composition within the meaning of the invention - moisturizing cream

[0139] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 2.

[0140] The percentages indicated correspond to the weight of the product indicated in relation to the total weight of the composition. [Tables 2] INCI % AQUA / WATER / EAU QSP 100% GLYCERIN 5.0414 PROPANEDIOL 5.00 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 4.9985 SILICA 3.20 MALTOOLIGOSYL GLUCOSIDE and HYDROGENATED S TARCH HYDROLYSATE 3.00 XYLITOL 3.00 CAPRYLOYL GLYCINE 2.00 CETYL PALMITATE 2.00 ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH 1.38 1-METHYLHYDANTOIN-2-IMIDE 1.00 FRUCTOOLIGOSACCHARIDES 1.00 LAURYL LAURATE 1.00 GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID 1.00 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0.80 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 0.55 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.50 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.37 CARRAGEENAN 0.30 ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0.15 XANTHAN GUM 0.15 ECTOIN 0.10 SODIUM PHYTATE 0.10 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.10

[0141] Example 3 - evaluation of the effect of the active ingredients according to the invention on the formation of pseudotubes in a cellular model of neoangiogenesis 3.1 Introduction

[0142] In the present study, the effects of the compounds and their combinations were evaluated in a coculture model of human dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HMVEC-d) and normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) under VEGF (vascular endothelial growth factor)-stimulated conditions. factor), a factor overexpressed in skin affected by rosacea. This model thus makes it possible to evaluate the formation of pseudotubes, as a model for the study of the induction or suppression of neoangiogenesis at the cutaneous level. More precisely, the effect of 2 compounds and their combination was evaluated on the formation of pseudotubes in the HMVEC-d / NHDF co-culture model by in situ immunolabeling and image analysis. 1. Materials and methods#

[0143] - Cytotoxicity tests

[0144] Prior to these tests, cytotoxicity tests were performed on cell types, HMVEC-d, NHDF, using a standard WST-8 reduction assay, in order to determine the concentrations to be tested in this study.

[0145] -Culture and processing

[0146] The model is described in detail by Hernandez-Pigeon et al. (2018). Briefly, the HMVEC-d / NHDF coculture was seeded in a 96-well plate and cultured for 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with a coculture medium containing or not (stimulated control) the tested compounds, the combinations or suramin (S2671, Sigma, a known inhibitor of neoangiogenesis; Waltenberger et al. 1996) tested at 0.01%. Then the cells were stimulated with VEGF at 100 ng / ml. In parallel, an unstimulated control was performed. The cells were incubated for 7 days with a renewal of the treatment after 72 hours of incubation. All experimental conditions were carried out in n=3.

[0147] - In situ immunolabeling of pseudotubes

[0148] After 7 days of incubation, the cells were rinsed, fixed and permeabilized. The cells were then labeled using an anti-vWF primary antibody (von Willebrand factor, marker of endothelial cells). The primary antibody is then revealed using an appropriate fluorescent secondary antibody (GAR Alexa 488) and the cell nuclei are stained in parallel using a Hoechst 33258 (bisbenzimide) solution.

[0149] Image acquisition (1 photo / well) was performed with an ImageXpress Micro confocal microscope (Molecular Devices, x4 objective).

[0150] Analysis of pseudotube formation was performed by vWF labeling. Labeling was quantified by measuring the total pseudotube area using MetaXpress software, Molecular Devices, normalized to the total cell number.

[0151] -Statistical analyses

[0152] Between-group comparisons were performed using an unpaired Student's t-test. Differences are considered statistically significant from p<0.05. (NS: p>0.05; *: p<0.05; **: p<0.01; ***: p<0.001). The analysis statistic can be interpreted if n>5, however for n<5 the statistical values ​​are indicative. The standard error of the mean was evaluated (sem = Sd / ^n).

[0153] The standard error of the mean (sem) is a measure of how far the sample mean is likely to be from the true population mean. The sem is calculated as the sd divided by the square root of the sample size.

[0154] - Compounds and concentrations tested

[0155] The compounds and concentrations tested are indicated in Table 3.

[0156] [Tables3] Tested compounds Abbreviation Tested concentrations Maltooligosyl Glucoside and Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate (heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose) MOG & HSH 0.625% 0.125% 0.0625% 1-methylhydantoin-2-imi de I 1-M-2-I 0.125% 0.025% 0.0125% 3.3 Results and conclusions

[0157] The results are represented graphically in [Fig.l]. Compared to the VEGF stimulated control at 100 ng / ml: - Suramin, a known inhibitor of neoangiogenesis, significantly reduces pseudotube formation, validating the relevance of the model; The active ingredients MOG & HSH and 1-M-2-I have no significant effect on pseudotube formation; The combination of active ingredients MOG & HSH and 1-M-2-I significantly synergistically inhibits the formation of pseudotubes at the 3 concentration combinations tested with an observable dose-effect.

[0158] These results validate the activity of the 2 active ingredients, taken in combination, on a model of cutaneous neoangiogenesis. Bibliography

[0159] Hernandez-Pigeon H, Garidou L, Galliano MF, Delga H, Aries MF, Duplan H, Bessou-Touya S, Castex-Rizzi N. Effects of dextran sulfate, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, pongamia oil and hesperidin methyl chalcone on inflammatory and vascular responses involved in rosacea. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018 Sep 7;11:421-429.

[0160] Waltenberger J, Mayr U, Frank H, Hombach V. Suramin is a potent inhibitor of vascular endothelial growth factor. A contribution to the molecular basis of its antiangiogenic action. J Mol Cell Cardiol. 1996 Jul;28(7): 1523-9.

Claims

Claims

1. Topical composition, preferably ecobiological, comprising: i) at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose; ii) creatinine.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose represents between 0.0001% and 10% by weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01% and 5%.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the creatinine represents between 0.0001% and 10% by weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01% and 5%, even more advantageously between 0.1% and 1%.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose is a mixture of oligosaccharides each consisting of one, two, three or four glucose residues linked to a trehalose residue.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose comprises the combination of maltriosyl glucoside and maltotetrasyl glucoside, said combination preferably representing between 10% and 40% by total weight of said heteropolymer, and the combination of maltotetraitol and maltotriiol, said combination preferably representing between 15% and 25% by total weight of said heteropolymer.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the creatinine has a purity greater than 70%, preferably 80%, advantageously 95%, or even 99%.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose corresponds to the INCI designation maltooligosyl glucoside and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate and the creatinine corresponds to the INCI designation l-methylhydantoin-2-imide.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the at least one heteropolymer of glucose and trehalose and creatinine is between 10:1 and 1:2, advantageously between 5:1 and 1:

1.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises an additional topical active ingredient chosen from: - polyglutamic acid or one of its salts; - a polyol, advantageously chosen from xylitol, sorbitol and mannitol; - an additional sugar or oligosaccharide, advantageously chosen from fructooligosaccharides and rhamnose; - glycyrrhetinic acid or one of its derivatives or salts; - a peptide derivative selected from the group consisting of: α-L-glutamyltryptamine, L-tryptophantryptamine and L-methionyltryptamine, advantageously α-L-glutamyltryptamine; - acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester; - squalane or one of its derivatives; - hyaluronic acid or one of its salts or derivatives; - ectoin; - jojoba oil and - their mixtures.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one sunscreen.

11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the at least one sunscreen according to the invention is a lipophilic organic sunscreen, advantageously a triazine-derived sunscreen.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11 for its use in preventing and / or treating: - rosacea; and / or - telangiectasia.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for use in combating redness and / or skin discomfort.