COMPOSITION FOR DYEING AND / OR LIGHTENING KERATIN FIBERS, AND METHODS THEREOF
A composition combining sunflower oil and specific polymers and dyes addresses the stability and shelf life issues of natural hair dye compositions, achieving long-lasting color and hair conditioning while maintaining stability at high temperatures.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023012721
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-11-20
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-23
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-11-20
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dye compositions that incorporate natural or vegetable-derived materials tend to be unstable and have a shorter shelf life, particularly when stored at higher temperatures, which limits their performance in achieving long-lasting color and hair conditioning.
A composition comprising sunflower oil, at least one polyol, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one non-ionic associative polymer, and at least one oxidative dye or alkaline agent, which is designed to provide superior dyeing and lightening performance while maintaining stability and long shelf life.
The composition achieves long-lasting color, enhanced conditioning, and protection against hair damage, while maintaining stability even at elevated temperatures, resulting in improved cosmetic properties and hair health.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR DYEING AND / OR LIGHTENING KERATIN FIBERS, AND METHODS THEREOF FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present disclosure relates, in general, to personal care products, and more particularly, to compositions for dyeing and / or lightening keratin fibers. The present disclosure further relates to a method for dyeing and / or lightening keratin fibers. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Dyeing keratin fibers, particularly human hair, is a well-known practice and commonly involves the use of coloring compositions, which include oxidation dye precursors, generally referred to as oxidation bases and couplers. These dye precursors are colorless or weakly colored compounds. When combined with an oxidizing agent, they give rise, through a process of oxidative condensation, to colored compounds.
[0003] Typically, the oxidation dyeing process involves the application, to keratin fibers, of oxidation bases, or a mixture of oxidation bases and couplers, with an oxidizing agent, which is added at the time of use.
[0004] Generally, this process is carried out at an alkaline pH, and produces dyeing and, at the same time, lightening of the fiber, by bleaching the melanin pigment in the hair. In this way, the dyes develop in the cortex of the hair and a uniform color development is obtained.
[0005] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major objective in the efforts to address global challenges.
[0006] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0007] However, the addition of materials of natural or vegetable origin in hair dye compositions tends to reduce the shelf life of such compositions, as they are often unstable when stored for long periods, especially when stored at higher temperatures.
[0008] Thus, there is a need for longer lasting hair dye compositions that achieve superior performance benefits such as long lasting color, enhanced conditioning, protection against hair damage, while having a long shelf life. Summary of the invention
[0009] In one aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a composition comprising sunflower oil; at least one polyol, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one non-ionic associative polymer, and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent.
[0010] In another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a kit comprising a composition (A) comprising sunflower oil, at least one polyol, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one non-ionic associative polymer, and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent; and a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent, and optionally at least one non-ionic ether of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, the mixture of composition (A) and composition (B) resulting in a ready-to-use composition.
[0011] In another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a method for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising mixing a composition (A) comprising sunflower oil, at least one polyol, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one non-ionic associative polymer, and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent; and a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent, and optionally at least one non-ionic ether of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, to obtain a mixture and applying the mixture to said fibers.
[0012] In another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a use of a composition comprising sunflower oil, at least one polyol, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one non-ionic associative polymer and, at least one oxidative dye, and / or at least one alkaline agent; or a kit comprising a composition (A) which comprises sunflower oil, at least one polyol, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one non-ionic associative polymer, at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent, and a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent, and optionally at least one non-ionic ether of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, the mixture of composition (A) and composition (B) resulting in a ready-to-use composition for dyeing and / or lightening keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0013] These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description and the appended claims. This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor is it intended to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0014] Those skilled in the art will be aware that the present disclosure is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is to be understood that the present disclosure includes all such variations and modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions and compounds designated or indicated in this specification, individually or collectively, and any combination of one or more of such steps or features.
[0015] Definitions
[0016] For convenience, before describing the present disclosure in more detail, certain terms used in the specification and examples are defined herein. These definitions should be read in light of the remainder of the disclosure and understood as by a person skilled in the art. The terms used herein have the meanings recognized and known to persons skilled in the art, however, for convenience and completeness, particular terms and their meanings are set forth below.
[0017] The articles "un", "une", "la", "le" and "les" are used to designate one or more than one (i.e. at least one) grammatical object of the article.
[0018] The terms "include" and "comprising" are used in an inclusive and open sense, meaning that additional elements may be included. It is not intended to be interpreted as "consists solely of."
[0019] The term "at least one" is used to mean one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0020] Throughout this specification, unless the context otherwise requires, the term "include", and variations such as "comprises" and "comprising", shall be understood to imply the inclusion of a stated element or step or group of elements or steps, but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of elements or steps.
[0021] The term “including” is used to mean “including, but not limited to.” “Including” and “including, but not limited to” are used interchangeably.
[0022] The term "INCI" is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the Personal Care Products Council's International Nomenclature Committee to describe the ingredients of personal care products.
[0023] All percentages, parts, and ratios are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure unless otherwise indicated. Ratios, concentrations, amounts, and other numerical data may be presented herein in a range format. It is to be understood that such a range format is used solely for convenience and brevity and is to be flexibly interpreted as including not only the numerical values explicitly cited as the limits of the range, but also as including all individual numerical values or subranges encompassed within that range as if each numerical value and subrange were explicitly cited.For example, a percentage range of about 0.1% to about 20% should be interpreted to include not only the explicitly cited limits of about 0.1% to about 20%, but also to include sub-ranges, such as 0.5% to 15%, 1% to 12%, and so on, as well as individual quantities, including fractional quantities, within the specified ranges, such as 2.8%, 3%, 6%, and 17.25%, for example.
[0024] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which this disclosure pertains. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, the preferred methods and materials are now described.
[0025] The present disclosure is not to be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for exemplary purposes only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and methods are clearly within the scope of the disclosure as described herein.
[0026] Embodiments herein provide a composition that provides superior performance benefits such as intense color, chromatic color, uniform color, long-lasting color, improved cosmeticity, and hair conditioning. In particular, the composition, according to the embodiments herein, comprises sunflower oil, which provides nutrition to the hair, protects it, and repairs hair damage. The composition has good usability qualities, such as ease of application along the hair and ease of rinsing. The composition overcomes disadvantages associated with natural oils, such as rancidity, and is stable after storage even at elevated temperatures, such as 45°C, for extended periods. It further provides improved smooth texture and detangling effects to the hair. It also imparts shine to the hair.Embodiments herein provide a kit comprising a ready-to-use composition. The ready-to-use composition results from a mixture comprising a composition (A), as described herein, comprising sunflower oil, at least one . polyol, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one non-ionic associative polymer, and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent, and a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent, and optionally at least one non-ionic ether of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol. Compositions (A) and (B) are intended to be mixed together and then applied to keratin fibers to dye and / or lighten the keratin fibers.Accordingly, the embodiments herein further include a method for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, wherein a composition (A) comprising sunflower oil, at least one polyol, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one non-ionic associative polymer, and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent and a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent, and optionally at least one non-ionic ether of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, as provided in the embodiments herein, are mixed and applied to said fibers. In addition, the embodiments herein also include the use of the composition or kit, according to the present invention, for dyeing and / or lightening keratin fibers, such as hair. Composition
[0027] Embodiments herein provide a composition, according to the present invention, comprising sunflower oil, at least one polyol, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one non-ionic associative polymer, and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent. The composition, according to the present invention, is used for dyeing and / or lightening keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0028] The composition, according to the embodiments herein, demonstrates the benefits associated with the use of sunflower oil, such as improved smooth texture and nutrition. The product according to the invention makes it possible, in particular, to effectively revitalize keratin fibers, in particular by providing them with improved cosmetic properties, in particular by giving them a softer and more uniform feel, and also suppleness, as well as improved shine.
[0029] Further, the incorporation of sunflower oil into the composition, according to the embodiments herein, replaces the need for synthetic ingredients, such as mineral oil.
[0030] Furthermore, the composition, according to the embodiments herein, overcomes the disadvantages associated with the use of other natural oils, such as rancidity, and demonstrates increased stability and longer shelf life. The composition is stable with respect to storage over time, at wide temperature ranges, including ambient temperatures (25°C), higher temperatures especially at 45°C, and also at lower temperatures, especially at 4°C.
[0031] Overall, the combination of sunflower oil, at least one polyol, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one non-ionic associative polymer and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, works synergistically to contribute to the superior dyeing and / or lightening performance of keratin fibers, such as hair. Sunflower oil
[0032] Embodiments of the present invention include sunflower oil. The sunflower oil of the present invention is obtained from sunflower seeds, i.e., Helianthus annuus. In particular, the sunflower oil of the present invention is obtained from Helianthus annuus of European origin. More particularly, the sunflower oil used in the present invention is sold under the name of refined sunflower oil, sold by the company ADM Speciality Oils and Fats (Société Industrielle des Oléagineux).
[0033] Sunflower oil is a liquid fatty acid triglyceride and according to the embodiments herein, the sunflower oil is a fatty acid triglyceride comprising palmitic acid in an amount ranging from 5% to 8% by weight, stearic acid in an amount ranging from 3% to 6% by weight, oleic acid in an amount ranging from 15% to 40% by weight and / or linoleic acid in an amount ranging from 48% to 75% by weight, based on the total fatty acid content of said oil.
[0034] In some embodiments, the sunflower oil further comprises myristic acid in an amount of less than 0.2% by weight, palmitoleic acid in an amount of less than 0.3% by weight, palmitic acid in an amount ranging from 5% to 7.6% by weight, linolenic acid in an amount of less than 0.3% by weight, arachidic acid in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 0.6% by weight, gadoleic acid in an amount of less than 0.3% by weight, behenic acid in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 1.5% by weight, erucic acid in an amount of less than 0.3% by weight, and / or lignoceric acid in an amount of less than 0.5% by weight, based on the total fatty acid content of said oil.
[0035] Preferably, the sunflower oil according to the invention is refined sunflower oil.
[0036] Sunflower oil, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in a total amount of at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 2% by weight, and more preferably at least 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0037] The sunflower oil, according to the embodiments herein, is in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, better from 2% to 10%, and even better from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols
[0038] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more polyols.
[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" denotes an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being optionally cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated.
[0040] The polyols comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups, even more preferably 2 hydroxyl groups.
[0041] In one embodiment, the polyols are chosen from diols, preferably from C3-C6 diols.
[0042] In certain embodiments, the polyols are selected from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, or mixtures thereof, preferably from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol or mixtures thereof.
[0043] Preferably, the polyols are chosen from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, or mixtures thereof, better still from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the polyol is propylene glycol.
[0044] The polyol(s), according to the embodiments herein, are in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from C3-C6 diols and are in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from propylene glycol, propane-1,3 diol, or mixtures thereof and are in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polysaccharide
[0047] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more cationic polysaccharides.
[0048] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “cationic polysaccharide” denotes any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized to form cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized to anionic groups.
[0049] In one embodiment, the cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic galactomannan gums, or mixtures thereof, preferably is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums or mixtures thereof.
[0050] Examples of cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in French patent 1,492,597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Dow Chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which have reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group. Polyquaternium-10 is for example one of these polymers.
[0051] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products marketed under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0052] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably C1-C6 trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example the chloride) may be used. Such products are sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 and JAGUAR C162 by the company Rhodia.
[0053] In some embodiments, the cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, or combinations thereof.
[0054] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharides are chosen from ga- gums cationic lactomannan comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and more preferably from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. More preferably, the cationic polysaccharides are chosen from polymers bearing INCI names, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or mixtures thereof, more preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0055] The cationic polysaccharide(s), according to the embodiments herein, are in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0056] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and are in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0057] More preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and are in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkaline agents
[0058] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more alkaline agents.
[0059] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alkaline agents.
[0060] In one embodiment, the alkaline agents are chosen from mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents, or mixtures thereof.
[0061] The mineral alkaline agents are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, or mixtures thereof.
[0062] The organic alkaline agents are preferably chosen from alkanolamines. In one embodiment, the alkanolamines are chosen from monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C 1 -C 10 hydroxyalkyl radicals.
[0063] In some embodiments, the alkanolamines are selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropa- nolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane or mixtures thereof.
[0064] The alkaline agents, in one embodiment, are chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate or mixtures thereof.
[0065] Preferably, the alkaline agents are chosen from alkanolamines and ammonium hydroxide. More preferably, the alkaline agent is chosen from alkanolamines, such as monoethanolamine.
[0066] The alkaline agent(s), according to the embodiments here, are in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better still from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0067] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide or their mixtures and are in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better still from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0068] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) chosen from alkanolamines are in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better still from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nonionic associative polymers
[0069] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more non-ionic associative polymers.
[0070] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "associative polymers" designates water-soluble polymers which are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules. The chemical structure of the one or more associative polymers comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region characterized by at least one C8-C30 fatty chain.
[0071] In one embodiment, the non-ionic associative polymers are chosen from: 1. celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one chain fat. Examples that can be cited include: • hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the linear or branched alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for example the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS® (C16 alkyl) sold by the company Aqualon, the product Polysurf 67 CS (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Bermocoll EHM 100® sold by the company Berol Nobel, • hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500® (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol, • hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses modified by linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl groups, for example the product Sangelose 60L (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose stearoxy ether) sold by the company Daido Chemical. 1. hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22® (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18® (Cl4 alkyl chain) and RE205-1® (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc, 2. copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and fatty chain hydrophobic monomers; examples that may be cited include: • Antaron V216® and Ganex V216® products (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company ISP. • Antaron V220® and Ganex V220® products (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by the company ISP, 1. copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208®, 2. copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, 3. polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences, 4. polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie.
[0072] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendant chains to be included. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
[0073] Polyether polyurethanes may be multi-block, in particular in tri-block form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: tri-block copolymer carrying a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multi-block copolymer). These polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
[0074] Nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, from which the name derives.
[0075] In one embodiment, the non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers comprise hydrophilic blocks that are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
[0076] Examples of non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used include Rheolate 205® containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.
[0077] Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C 12-14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C[8] alkyl chain, from Akzo.
[0078] Rohm & Haas' DW 1206B® product containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, comprising a total amount of 20% by weight in water, may also be used.
[0079] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of these polymers which may be cited are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. The products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas can also be used.
[0080] We can also cite Luvigel Star (polyurethane-39) sold by the company BASF, which is a copolymer of polyethylene glycol-140 (PEG-140) and hexamethylene dii- socyanate terminated by C12-14 pareth-10, C16-18 pareth-11 and C18-20 pareth-11.
[0081] The polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380-389 (1993).
[0082] In certain embodiments, the polyether polyurethane may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising: i. at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, ii. stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and iii. at least one diisocyanate.
[0083] Such polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
[0084] In certain preferred embodiments, the non-ionic associative polymers are selected from cellulose derivatives, preferably from hydroxyethyl celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain. More preferably, the non-ionic associative polymer is cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.
[0085] The non-ionic associative polymer(s), according to the embodiments herein, are in a total amount ranging from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and preferably 0.01% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0086] Preferably, the non-ionic associative polymer(s) are selected from celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, according to the embodiments here, and are in a total amount ranging from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and preferably 0.01% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oxidative dyeing
[0087] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more oxidative dyes.
[0088] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more oxidative dyes.
[0089] The oxidative dye, according to the embodiments herein, includes at least one oxidation base and / or at least one oxidation coupler. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases in combination with one or more couplers.
[0090] Oxidation bases are generally colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when mixed with oxidizing compounds, give rise to colored compounds or a dye. In addition, the color shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with oxidation couplers or color modifiers.
[0091] In one embodiment, the oxidation bases are selected from a group consisting of para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.
[0092] The addition salts of the oxidation bases are preferably chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0093] Para-phenylenediamines that may be used include, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-(ethyl-[3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(|3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and / or their addition salts with an acid.
[0094] In one embodiment, the para-phenylenediamines are selected from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, or, preferably, their addition salts with an acid, or their mixtures.
[0095] Bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be used include, for example, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N' -bis-([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N' -bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N' -bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N' -bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, 1,8,bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy-3,6-dioxaoctane, and / or their addition salts.
[0096] Para-aminophenols that may be used include, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and / or their acid addition salts. In one example, the addition salt is a sulfurous acid salt or a sodium metabisulfite salt.
[0097] Ortho-aminophenols that may be used include, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and / or their addition salts.
[0098] Various heterocyclic bases are known and may be used in the embodiments herein. Examples of such heterocyclic bases include pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, and pyrazole derivatives.
[0099] The pyridine derivatives may be selected from compounds as described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and / or GB 1 153 196, including 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, and / or their addition salts.
[0100] In one embodiment, the pyridine derivatives may be selected from the oxidation bases of 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, or their addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples of such bases include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol,3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol and 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-(3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol, and / or their addition salts.
[0101] The pyrimidine derivatives may be selected from the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375, or patent application WO 96 / 15765, including 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0102] The pyrazole derivatives may be chosen from, for example, the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, including 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-Amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and their addition salts. 4,5-Diamino-1-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.
[0103] Mention may preferably be made of 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, and / or its salts.
[0104] In one embodiment, the pyrazole derivatives which may also be used include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-éthylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diméthyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diéthyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyéthyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyéthyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-diméthylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tétrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-1,2-diéthyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-diméthylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diéthyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or, preferably, one of their salts, or mixtures thereof. 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, and / or its salts, may preferably be mentioned.
[0105] The heterocyclic base may be chosen from the 4,5-diamino- l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol, and / or one of their salts.
[0106] In certain embodiments, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, the corresponding addition salts, or mixtures thereof, preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, la 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, or mixtures thereof.
[0107] In one embodiment, the oxidation couplers may be selected from a group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers, heterocyclic couplers and / or their addition salts.
[0108] In some embodiments, the oxidation couplers are selected from 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-l-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 5-methoxy-6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, lN-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindole, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diaminopyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 4-(3,5-diaminopyridin-2-yl)-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-methylpiperiazine-1-ium chloride, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,4,6-trimethoxyaniline hydrochloride, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole and 2,6-diaminopyrazine, their acid addition salts, or mixtures thereof.
[0109] In various embodiments, the oxidation couplers are selected from 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts or their mixtures.
[0110] The oxidation couplers, in certain embodiments, are further selected from 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol and l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, their addition salts and their mixtures.
[0111] In general, the addition salts of the oxidation couplers used in the present invention are chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0112] In some embodiments, the oxidation couplers are selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, α-naphthol, their addition salts, their salts, solvates of their salts, or mixtures thereof.
[0113] Preferably, the oxidation couplers are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts or their mixtures.
[0114] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol and their addition salts.
[0115] The oxidation base(s), according to the embodiments here, are preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] The oxidation coupler(s), according to the embodiments herein, are preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] The oxidizing bases and couplers may be in suitable amounts such that the total amount of oxidative dye, according to the embodiments herein, is in the range of 0.0002% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Fatty Acids
[0118] The composition, according to the present invention, may further include one or more fatty acids.
[0119] In one embodiment, the fatty acids comprise from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.
[0120] In certain embodiments, the fatty acids may comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0121] Preferably, the fatty acids may include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0122] In certain embodiments, the fatty acids are chosen from compounds of structure RC(O)OH in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “fatty acids” designates free fatty acids, for example the fatty acids according to the invention which are not esterified.
[0124] The fatty acids may be chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids or mixtures thereof.
[0125] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “solid fatty acid” designates a fatty acid having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).
[0126] In one embodiment, the solid fatty acids are selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0127] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “liquid fatty acid” designates a fatty acid with a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).
[0128] In one embodiment, the liquid fatty acids are selected from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0129] In some embodiments, the fatty acids are selected from lauric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, undecylenic acid, isocetyl acid, isostearic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, cetylstearic acid or mixtures thereof, preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0130] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition according to the present invention are solid fatty acids, in particular chosen from fatty acids including at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched unsaturated alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0131] More preferably, the fatty acids present in the present composition according to the present invention are solid fatty acids, in particular chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or their mixtures.
[0132] Where appropriate, the fatty acid(s) are preferably present in the composition in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10%, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional fatty compounds
[0133] The composition, according to the present invention, may further include one or more additional fatty compounds. The additional fatty compound is different from sunflower oil and fatty acids.
[0134] The additional fatty compounds that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0135] Additional fatty compounds that may be used according to the present invention are non-silicone fatty compounds.
[0136] The expression “non-silicone fatty compound” designates a fatty compound not containing Si-O bonds and the expression “silicone fatty compound” designates a fatty compound containing at least one Si-O bond.
[0137] Additional fatty compounds that are useful, in one embodiment, may be liquid fatty compounds (or oils) and / or solid fatty compounds. The term "liquid fatty compound" refers to a fatty compound with a melting point less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa) and the term "solid fatty compound" refers to a fatty compound with a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).
[0138] The term 'melting point' refers to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present invention, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105Pa).
[0139] The liquid fatty compounds are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, or mixtures thereof.
[0140] The C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons may be linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably selected from alkanes. Examples that may be cited include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, or mixtures thereof.
[0141] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0142] One animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oil that may be cited is perhydrosqualene.
[0143] The fluorinated oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals, perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane, perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem, nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane, perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
[0144] The liquid fatty alcohols that can be used are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that can be cited include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, lino-lenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is oleyl alcohol.
[0145] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than triglycerides, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0146] In some embodiments, for the monohydric alcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid is branched.
[0147] In various embodiments, the monoesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides are selected from dihydroabietyl behenate, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, palmitate ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, or mixtures thereof.
[0148] Preferably, the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols are chosen from ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, or mixtures thereof.
[0149] In some embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0150] In various embodiments, mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate and polyethylene glycol distearates, or mixtures thereof.
[0151] In one embodiment, the fatty esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides are chosen from sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids.
[0152] The term "sugar" refers to compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons carrying several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than anionic polysaccharides.
[0153] In some embodiments, examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0154] In various embodiments, the fatty acid sugar esters are selected from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6 to C30 and preferably in C12 to C22. In certain embodiments, if they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0155] In some embodiments, the esters may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, or mixtures thereof.
[0156] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, in particular such as mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate.
[0157] Preferably, the esters are chosen from monoesters and diesters and in particular mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, or mixtures thereof.
[0158] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0159] In one embodiment, the fatty esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides are preferentially chosen from a liquid ester of a monoacid and a monoalcohol.
[0160] Preferably, the additional fatty compounds are chosen from solid fatty compounds.
[0161] Solid fatty compounds preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.
[0162] In one embodiment, the solid fatty compound(s) are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, or mixtures thereof.
[0163] The term "fatty alcohol" is intended to denote a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl OH group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0164] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R'-OH with R' denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0165] The solid fatty alcohols in various embodiments, which can be used are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0166] In one embodiment, the solid fatty alcohols that may be used, alone or in a mixture, may be selected from myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol), stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol), arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol), and myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0167] In some embodiments, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0168] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or their mixtures such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
[0169] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol may be chosen from esters derived from a C9-C30 carboxylic fatty acid and / or a C9-C30 fatty alcohol*
[0170] In certain embodiments, the solid fatty esters are the esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid, including at least 9 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched saturated monoalcohol, including at least 9 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0171] In some embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0172] In a further embodiment, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, or mixtures thereof are preferred.
[0173] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, in certain embodiments, are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate, or mixtures thereof.
[0174] Preferably, the additional fatty compound(s) are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
[0175] Where appropriate, the additional fatty compound(s) other than sunflower oil and fatty acids, according to the embodiments herein, are present in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, better still from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] Preferably, the additional fatty compound(s) other than sunflower oil and fatty acids are selected from solid fatty compounds, according to the embodiments herein, and are present in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, better still from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0177] Preferably, the additional fatty compound(s) other than sunflower oil and fatty acids are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, according to the embodiments herein, and are present in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, better still from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives
[0178] The composition according to the present invention optionally comprises one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which may be mentioned mineral thickening agents, non-ionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, sequestering agents, solvents other than polyols, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and / or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes and preservatives.
[0179] Each of the additives, in various embodiments herein, may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0180] Solvents other than the polyols mentioned herein of the composition, according to the present invention, may comprise water and / or one or more organic solvents.
[0181] In one embodiment, the organic solvents are chosen from linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols, comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenylethyl alcohol, polyol ethers, for example ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or its ethers, for example propylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, in particular C1-C4alkyl ethers, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
[0182] The organic solvents, according to the embodiments herein, when present, are in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0183] The composition, according to the present invention, is preferably aqueous. In one embodiment, the water in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, is in an amount ranging from 30% to 99% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 40% to 95% by weight, and more preferably in an amount ranging from 50% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0184] In one embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one oxidizing agent as disclosed below. According to this embodiment, the composition of the invention is a ready-to-use composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
[0185] In another embodiment, the composition of the invention is free of oxidizing agent. According to this embodiment, the composition is preferentially mixed with a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent as disclosed below immediately before use. Kit
[0186] The embodiments provided herein also include a kit comprising a composition (A) as described in the embodiments above comprising sunflower oil, at least one polyol, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one non-ionic associative polymer, and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent, and a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent, and optionally at least one non-ionic ether of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol. Compositions (A) and (B) are intended to be mixed together at the time of use to obtain a ready-to-use composition which is then applied to keratin fibers to dye and / or lighten the keratin fibers. Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9.0 and 10.5.
[0187] Compositions (A) and (B) may be present in separate sachets or containers or in a single double-compartment sachet, optionally accompanied by one or more suitable applicators which may be the same or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges. The above-mentioned kit may also be equipped with a means for dispensing the desired mixture onto the hair, for example the devices described in patent FR 2586913. Oxidizing agent
[0188] Embodiments of composition (B) of the kit provided herein include at least one oxidizing agent.
[0189] The oxidizing agents may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates, perborates, peracids and / or their precursors, or alkali metal or alkaline earth metal percarbonates.
[0190] In one embodiment, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
[0191] The oxidizing agent(s), according to the embodiments herein, are in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0192] Non-ionic ether of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol
[0193] Embodiments of composition (B) of the kit provided herein include at least one non-ionic ether of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol. The non-ionic ether of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, according to the embodiments herein, comprises at least one non-ionic ether of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol includes those of formula (IV):
[0194] Rr(O-Alk)n-OR2
[0195] Formula (IV),
[0196] and / or their optical isomers and / or geometric isomers,
[0197] in which, Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cio-C3o hydrocarbon-based radical; R2 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cio-C3o hydrocarbon-based radical, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl radical, preferably the hydroxyl being [3 on the ether function; n is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive; and Alk represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, (Ci-C6) alkylene group, such as ethylene or propylene, preferably ethylene.
[0198] In a particular embodiment, the Alk radical of formula (IV) represents the group -CH2-CH2-.
[0199] The non-ionic ether of formula (IV) is such that R 1 and R 2 , independently of one another, denote a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C 12 -C 20 and preferably C 18 -C 18 hydrocarbon-based radical; R 2 being optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl radical and n denotes an integer greater than or equal to 20, ranging for example from 20 to 100 and preferably from 40 to 80. Preferably, R 1 and R 2 denote an alkyl radical.
[0200] In certain embodiments, the non-ionic ether of formula (IV) is such that: R 1 denotes a C 16 -C 18 alkyl radical, which is preferably linear, and R 2 denotes a C 10 alkyl radical, which is preferably linear, substituted by an OH group, and n is equal to 60.
[0201] In various embodiments, the non-ionic ether of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol is of formula (V): OH
[0202] Formula (V)
[0203] in which R is a cetyl or stearyl group with n = 60.
[0204] Such non-ionic ethers of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol are known, for example, in the CTFA dictionary as Ceteareth 60 myristyl glycol or hydrogenated talloweth 60 myristyl glycol. Examples include commercially available ceteareth 60 myristyl glycol, such as those sold under the reference Elfacos GT 282 S by Akzo.
[0205] The non-ionic ether(s) of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, according to the embodiments here, are present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B). Process
[0206] The composition of the present invention may be manufactured using known methods which are generally used in cosmetics or dermatological field. Typically, the method of preparing the composition comprises mixing the sunflower oil, the polyol, the cationic polysaccharide, the non-ionic associative polymer and the oxidative dye and / or the alkaline agent, with a suitable solvent, and optionally the additive to obtain the composition.
[0207] Embodiments herein also include methods of making composition (A) and composition (B) of the kit provided herein. In one embodiment, the method of preparing composition (A) is according to the method described herein- above comprising the mixture of sunflower oil, polyol, cationic polysaccharide, non-ionic associative polymer and oxidative dye and optionally the alkaline agent, with a suitable solvent, and optionally the additive to obtain composition (A). The process for preparing composition (B) comprises mixing oxidizing agent and optionally non-ionic ether of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol with a suitable solvent and optionally, comprising the additive to obtain composition (B).
[0208] Embodiments herein further include a method of dyeing keratin fibers. The method includes dyeing and / or lightening keratin fibers, particularly hair. In one embodiment, the method comprises mixing composition (A) and composition (B) of the kit as provided herein to obtain a mixture and applying the mixture to said fiber. In some embodiments, the mixture is allowed to stand for a dwell time in a range of 5 to 45 minutes. In some embodiments, the mixture is allowed to stand for a dwell time in a range of 5 to 15 minutes.
[0209] The temperature during the process is conventionally between room temperature (15 to 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C. Use
[0210] Embodiments herein include use of the composition and / or kit of the present invention.
[0211] The composition and / or kit, according to the embodiments herein, can be used for dyeing and / or lightening or coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair. The composition can be used for color changing, color lightening / bleaching hair and / or covering graying hair.
[0212] The composition and / or kit can be used on natural hair and / or artificial hair, including hair extensions.
[0213] The composition and / or kit may be used at various temperatures, including conventionally at room temperature (between 15°C and 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.
[0214] Although the subject matter has been described in considerable detail with reference to certain examples and implementations thereof, it is understood that other implementations are possible and included within the scope of the present invention. EXAMPLES
[0215] The disclosure will now be illustrated by practical examples, which are intended to illustrate the operation of the disclosure and are not intended to impose any restrictive limitations on the scope of this disclosure. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which this disclosure pertains. Although methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in practicing the disclosed methods and compositions, exemplary methods, devices, and materials are described herein. It is to be understood that this disclosure is not limited to the particular methods and experimental conditions described, as such methods and conditions may apply. Example 1
[0216] Composition for dyeing and / or lightening keratin fibers
[0217] Composition A (according to the present invention) for dyeing and / or lightening keratin fibers was prepared using 6% by weight of Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) seed oil, polyol i.e. 5% by weight of propylene glycol, cationic polysaccharide i.e. 0.5% by weight of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, non-ionic associative polymer i.e. 0.05% by weight of cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, 0.24% by weight of chelator i.e. tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, oxidative dyes i.e. p-aminophenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, hydroxybenzomorpholine, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate, m-aminophenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCl, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline HCl, toluene-2,5-diamine, surfactants i.e. 1.50% by weight of laureth-12, 3% by weight of laureth-4, 1.50% by weight of oleth-20 and 2.40% by weight of polysorbate 21,of fatty compounds i.e. 17% by weight of cetearyl alcohol, of alkaline agents i.e. 7.83% by weight of ethanolamine, of fatty acids i.e. 0.32% by weight of stearic acid, 0.02% by weight of myristic acid, 0.26% by weight of palmitic acid, of reducing agent / antioxidant i.e. 0.25% by weight of ascorbic acid, 0.75% by weight of sodium metabisulfite and water (up to 100% by weight).
[0218] The sunflower seed oil used in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, was purchased commercially from Europe ADM Speciality Oil and Fats (Société Industrielle des Oléagineux).
[0219] Composition A1 (comparative), composition A2 (comparative), composition A3 (comparative) and composition A4 (comparative) were prepared in the same manner as composition A, however, sunflower oil was replaced by coconut oil in composition A1, rapeseed oil in composition A2 and caprylic capric triglyceride in composition A3. Composition A4 was prepared without the addition of natural or synthetic oils.
[0220] The coconut oil used in composition Al was purchased commercially- commercially from Cargill under the name Agripure AP-20 MB in Europe. Rapeseed oil of composition A2 was purchased commercially from Gustav Heess under the name Rapeseed Oil Refined Solvent Extracted PH. Eur in Europe.
[0221] Table 1 below provides the ingredients used to prepare composition A (according to the present invention) and comparative compositions A1, A2, A3 and A4, expressed in % by weight:
[0222] [Table 1] Table 1 No. Ingredient (INCI) Composition A Al A2 A3 A4 1 Ethanolamine 7.83 7.83 7.83 7.83 6.33 2 Ascorbic acid 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.24 0.24 0.24 0.24 0.24 4 Myristic acid 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 5 Palmitic acid 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 6 Stearic acid 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 7 Propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 8 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 9 Cetearyl Alcohol 17.00 17.00 17.00 17.00 17.00 10 Laureth-12 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 11 Laureth-4 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 12 Oleth-20 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 13 Polysorbate 21 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 14 Cetylhydroxyethylcellulose 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 15 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) kernel oil 6.00 - - - - 16 Coconut oil - 6.00 - - - 17 Rapeseed oil - - 6.00 - - 18 Caprylic capric triglyceride - - - 6.00 - 19 Sodium metabisulfite 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 20 p-Aminophenol 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 21 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin e 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 22 Hydroxybenzo-morpholine 0.68 0.68 0.68 0.68 0.68 23 N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate 0.23 0.23 0.23 0.23 0.23 24 2,4-Diaminophenoxyethano 1HC1 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 25 Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline HCl 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 26 m-Aminophenol 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 27 Toluene-2,5-diamine 0.89 0.89 0.89 0.89 0.89 28 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
[0223] Oxidizing composition B was prepared from the ingredients whose content is indicated in Table 2 below, expressed in % by weight:
[0224] [Table 2] Table 2 Ingredients Composition B Stabilizing and chelating agents qs Hydrogen peroxide 6.00 Cetearyl alcohol 2.28 Ceteareth-25 0.57 Trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA 0.85 Glycerol 0.50 Phosphoric acid qs pH 2.2 Water qs 100
[0225] Example 2: Stability Assessment
[0226] Each of compositions A (according to the present invention) and comparative compositions A1, A2 and A3 was stored for 2 months at 4°C, room temperature (or ambient temperature), 37°C and 45°C.
[0227] The amount of oil retained in each composition was measured by HPLC-CAD method (HPLC with charged aerosol detection).
[0228] Results: The results of the stability of the oils after storage at different temperatures for 2 months in composition A and comparative compositions A1, A2 and A3 are provided in Table 3 below in which the percentages of oil retained in the compositions are indicated. Composition A comprising sunflower oil was the most stable at all temperatures, in particular, at a high storage temperature of 45°C, 86.27% of the sunflower oil was stable, i.e., it was preserved in its original state, compared to only 37.50% for rapeseed oil in composition A2, for example.
[0229] [Table 3]Table 3 Stability of sunflower oil in Composition A Stability of coconut oil in Composition A1 Stability of rapeseed oil in Composition A2 Stability of caprylic capric triglyceride in Composition A3 2 months at 4°C 97.27% 93.71% 86.80% 90.05% 2 months at room temperature 92.45% 89.15% 84.71% 86.99% 2 months at 37°C 89.96% 77.95% 38.31% 68.89% 2 months at 45°C 86.27% 79.59% 37.50% 65.49%
[0230] Additionally, no rancid odor was observed for the compositions after 2 months at all temperatures.
[0231] Furthermore, the assessment of the physical characteristics of the compositions determined that a color change was observed in the comparative composition A2 comprising rapeseed oil, whereas no color change was observed in the composition A of the present invention.
[0232] The results therefore demonstrated that the specific combination of ingredients in composition A (according to the present invention) works synergistically and reduces the hydrolysis of sunflower oil, confers stability and thus provides the composition with a long shelf life even when stored at elevated temperatures.
[0233] Example 3: Evaluation of wet slip
[0234] The term "wet slip" as used herein refers to the ease of movement of a comb through keratin fibers, particularly hair, after the application of a composition or product to keratin fibers, in particular a composition for dyeing and / or lightening keratin fibers, in particular human hair, according to the present disclosure.
[0235] The ease of movement of the comb through the keratin fibers was measured in terms of the force (Fmax) in Newton (N) required for the comb to move through the keratin fibers, e.g., the greater the ease of movement of the comb through the keratin fibers, the lower the Fmax, indicating a higher level of conditioning and smoothing of the keratin fibers.
[0236] Compositions A (according to the present invention) and A4 (comparative) were each mixed independently with oxidizing composition B in a weight ratio of 1 / 1.
[0237] Each of the mixtures was applied to natural human hair, in a proportion of 5 g of mixture to 1 g of hair, 27 cm long. After a setting time of 35 minutes, the hair was rinsed. This was repeated twice, i.e. the mixtures were applied, left for 35 minutes and rinsed three times.
[0238] For each of the compositions, wet slip was measured using a slip bench instrument.
[0239] Results: As shown in Table 4 below, Composition A comprising 6% sunflower oil, as provided herein, showed the best wet slip as it demonstrated the least slip resistance, while Composition A4, which was without sunflower oil, demonstrated the least wet slip as the force required for wet slip (Fmax) on Composition A4 was significantly higher than that required for Composition A. The results indicated that the compositions, according to the present invention, comprising sunflower oil, demonstrated the best wet slip performance, thus providing a more nourishing and conditioning effect to the hair.
[0240] [Table 4] Table 4 Wet slip Compositions A A4 Fmax (N) 0.72 0.96 BENEFITS OF THIS DISCLOSURE
[0241] The composition of the present invention achieves improved wet slip and hair nourishment. In particular, the composition of the present invention includes sunflower oil, which contributes to the superior properties of a smoother and more even feel on the hair, as well as improved shine and re repairing damaged hair without leaving a perceived greasy feeling. In addition, the composition of the present invention is stable, particularly at higher temperatures. The composition also achieves long-lasting color and improved cosmeticity.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition comprising: sunflower oil; at least one polyol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one non-ionic associative polymer; and at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one alkaline agent.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the sunflower oil is in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, better still from 2 to 10%, and even better still from 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to claim 1, in which the polyol is chosen from diols, preferably from C3-C6 diols, and more preferably is propylene glycol.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyol(s) are in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic galactomannan gums, or combinations thereof, preferably from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, or combinations thereof, more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and better still from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic polysaccharide(s) are in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
7. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the alkaline agent is selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, metal carbonates, metal bicarbonates, alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, or combinations thereof, preferably from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide or combinations thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines, and best of all monoethanolamine.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-ionic associative polymer is chosen from celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, and more preferably is cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-ionic associative polymer(s) are in a total amount ranging from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. A kit comprising: (a) a composition (A) as claimed in any preceding claim; and (b) a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent; and optionally at least one non-ionic ether of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, the mixture of composition (A) and composition (B) resulting in a ready-to-use composition.
Citation Information
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