Cosmetic composition in the form of a cleansing and heating stick.

Abstract

Cosmetic composition in the form of a cleansing and heating stick, comprising a polar oil such as an esterified oil, a gelling base consisting of hydrogenated vegetable oil butters as well as palmitic acid and stearic acid, a non-ionic surfactant, a zeolite powder, and a vegetable wax consisting of fatty acid triglycerides. The composition can also be formulated in the form of a balm.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition in the form of a cleansing and heating stick. Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a cleansing and heating stick. Prior art

[0002] The manufacture of products in the form of sticks or sticks is widely described in the literature for many types of cosmetic formulations, such as lipsticks, makeup remover or care products, deodorants or antiperspirants (MARTINI Marie-Claude, SEILLER Monique, et al. Active ingredients and additives in cosmetology, chapter 25.1.3 devoted to the formulation of deodorants and antiperspirants, collective work, Editions Lavoisier, 3rd edition, 2006, 1052p. ISBN 13: 978-2-7430-0711-9), or even moisturizing or perfuming products. Their development is part of the current trend to offer solid products, these containing little or no water, thus making it possible to reduce the quantities of products and their packaging, to reduce or eliminate ingredients such as preservatives, and finally to facilitate nomadic uses.

[0003] The formulation of these products is well known to those skilled in the art, it is detailed in several works and publications (PENSE-L'HERITIER Anne-Marie et al. Conception des produits cosmétiques: La formulation, chapter 6 devoted to aqueous and oily gels and part of chapter 12 devoted to the formulation of lipsticks, collective work, Editions Lavoisier 2014. ISBN: 978-2-7430-1574-9).

[0004] The formulation of sticks or sticks thus calls upon several types of galenics, among which we mainly find: 1. Anhydrous formulations based on waxes, oils, and oily gelling agents. Waxes are texturizing and film-forming agents; they are composed of esters of fatty acids and alcohols and can be of synthetic or natural origin. Natural waxes can be of mineral origin, such as ozokerite and ceresin from lignite and paraffins from petroleum, of vegetable origin, such as carnauba and candelilla wax, or of animal origin, such as beeswax. Physically, they are malleable, chemically stable substances characterized by a melting point of around 60°C. These formulations jointly use emollients, other fatty substances, also natural and synthetic, which will improve the texture and feel of the products: for example, coconut oil or coco-caprylate make it possible to obtain a dry feel; on the other hand, olive oil or shea butter provide a greasy feel, while Caprylic / capric triglycerides or sweet almond oil have intermediate properties. The most common oily or organogelling agents are fatty acids and alcohols, glycerol stearate, sorbitan monoesters, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, or lecithins, steroids and their derivatives, hydroxystearic acid, as well as cyclodextrins.

[0005] Patent GB2288735 B (BODY SHOP INT) March 20, 1996, abstract and claims 1 to 8, describes an anhydrous exfoliating stick of this type, in which the base material comprises vegetable, synthetic, hydrocarbon waxes, silicones, as well as hydrogenated oils, esters and fatty alcohols including lanolin derivatives.

[0006] 2. Formulations based on clays such as bentonites and smectites, but giving a rough feel and being easily brittle, they are not suitable for all types of formulations, even if their properties can be improved by the use of additives such as the aforementioned ingredients.

[0007] Patent JP3767978 B2 (MITSUBISHI PENCIL) April 19, 2006, abstract and claim 1, discloses a makeup stick prepared by compaction of bentonites and smectites, the composition further comprising pigments, silicones, waxes or oils.

[0008] 3. Formulations of the emulsion type or based on bigels, which unlike The previous ones are not anhydrous, since they are made up of an oily phase and an aqueous phase, in order to combine the advantages of both types of products, in particular by allowing the production of textures with a less greasy feel which can simultaneously have emollient and moisturizing properties, and allowing the use of water-soluble active ingredients and ingredients. As previously stated, the oily phase consists of waxes, oils and oily gelling agents, the aqueous phase generally consisting of water, polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin and aqueous gelling agents such as gelatin, carrageenans, pectin, starch, sodium alginate, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, guar, xanthan or acacia gum, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, or acrylic acid polymers.

[0009] Patent FR3015249 B1 (L'OREAL) August 25, 2017, abstract and claims 1 to 14, thus describes a stick for makeup or lip care in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an alkyl cellulose; a hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers of natural origin; a polyol; a hydrocarbon oil chosen from alcohols, esters, carboxylic acids and alcohols, esters of a polyol and carboxylic acids; a non-volatile oil chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated oils.

[0010] Patent KR100816606 B1 (SPANISH HEART INC) March 24, 2008, abstract and claim 1, describes a facial cleansing stick based on ceresin, camauba, candelilla, beeswax, caprylic / capric triglyceride, octyldodecylstearyl stearate, lanolin hydroxylate as ingredients of the oil phase, and sorbitan sesquioleate, oleyl alcohol and castor oil as a surfactant system to achieve the cleansing properties.

[0011] Furthermore, the advantage of a cosmetic composition being both cleansing and heating is to facilitate the opening of the pores of the skin and thus the removal of dirt. This is the case for exfoliating and heating masks such as those marketed by the company TECHNATURE, based on zeolite and butylene glycol.

[0012] The field of cosmetic products includes other types of heating products, including creams, balms, and body wraps. These use different types of active ingredients, such as fumaric acid or metal powders based on aluminum or magnesium. However, fumaric acid can produce skin irritations that limit its possibilities of use, while the oxidation-reduction reactions specific to aluminum or magnesium powders give intense reactions whose progressiveness is difficult to control.

[0013] Thus, patent FR3038512 B1 (TECHNATURE) July 5, 2019, presents a cosmetic composition with a progressive heating effect resulting from an oxidation-reduction reaction between a combination of fumaric acid and monosodium citrate making it possible to control the progressive rise in temperature throughout its use, after adding water to activate these reactions.

[0014] So-called heating balms or sticks based on capsaicinoids, active compounds of chili peppers, or piperidine, camphor, or even certain essential oils (black pepper, clove, cinnamon, ginger, eucalyptus), have the characteristic of activating the heat receptors of the skin, hence the burning sensation, while there is no increase in temperature; as such, they are not real heating cosmetic compositions. In addition, these products are used to relieve muscle and joint pain, or prepare the muscles for physical exertion or stimulate blood circulation, and therefore differ significantly from the field of the present invention.

[0015] Among the heating actives, zeolites are microporous aluminosilicates well known to those skilled in the art for their specific absorption properties, which make them one of the most widely used categories of molecular sieves. Their hygroscopic properties and the exothermic nature of the rehydration of their anhydrous form, with a high heat of adsorption, allows their use as a gentle heating agent, with gradual heat emission during their rehydration. According to information provided by manufacturers supplying cosmetic grades of zeolites, in order to obtain an optimal heating effect, these should preferably be hydrophilic, rich in aluminum, and have pores whose size is less than or equal to 0.3 nanometers.

[0016] Patent KR102463805 B1 (NATUR Co. Ltd) November 4, 2022, abstract and claims, presents an example of a zeolite-based heating cosmetic product, the composition of which further comprises bentonite and kaolin. On the other hand, neither its form, that of a creamy mask, nor its composition are close to the present invention.

[0017] Patent EP1583515 B1 (COTY BV) June 23, 2010, abstract and claims 1 to 7, describes a self-heating and cleansing cosmetic composition based on zeolite and comprising an oily phase, non-ionic surfactants and a thickener based on waxes, hydroxystearic acid and clays. However, this composition differs from the present invention by its form, being a creamy product and not a stick. In addition, the compositions described, differing in several points from those of the present invention, also do not allow the incorporation of zeolite contents greater than 40% by mass, which limits the heating effect obtained.

[0018] To the knowledge of the applicant company, there is no publication describing the formulation of heating sticks, nor consequently that of cleaning and heating sticks. Statement of the invention

[0019] The present invention having as its object the production of heating and cleaning sticks, the applicant company wished to use a heating active ingredient which does not present any drawbacks or limits from a toxicological point of view, and consequently, the use of zeolite was a preferred option, nothing opposing a priori its use within a solid product such as a stick. Furthermore, the progressiveness of the heating obtained with this ingredient as well as its absorbent and descaling properties corresponded to the desired effects. Consequently, this preliminary choice eliminates aqueous formulations or those containing water other than in trace amounts.

[0020] The applicant company therefore sought to incorporate cosmetic-grade zeolite meeting the aforementioned characteristics into stick-type formulations based on waxes, oils and oily gelling agents, to which a surfactant is added in order to enable cleansing properties to be obtained, the formulation obtained also having to enable easy rinsing of the skin with water after its application. use.

[0021] However, it quickly became apparent that the formulations thus obtained were not satisfactory, being either unsuitable for obtaining a noticeable heating effect, or unsuitable for easy rinsing, or of poor mechanical quality. In particular, it appeared that the use of apolar or slightly polar waxes and oils was incompatible with obtaining a satisfactory result, probably due to the coating of the zeolite particles preventing access to them by water molecules, and therefore not allowing, or not sufficiently, the obtaining of the heating effect when applying the stick. It was therefore necessary to use polar oils; for the purposes of the present invention, polar oil means oily compounds comprising polar functional groups, such as esters or fatty alcohols.

[0022] Furthermore, it appeared that for all the formulations, it was necessary to obtain a significant heating effect, to incorporate within the stick a significant content of hydrophilic zeolite rich in aluminum, at least equal to 40% by mass, limited to a maximum content of 65% by mass beyond which it seems impossible to preserve the mechanical characteristics of the sticks. Preferably, a cosmetic quality zeolite, the pores of which are of a size less than or equal to 0.3 nanometers and of synthetic nature was used, in particular due to the homogeneity and reproducibility of its physicochemical characteristics, at a content of between 45% and 55% by mass.

[0023] Such high zeolite contents require their formulation to be adapted accordingly, the incorporation resulting in the degradation of the mechanical characteristics of the sticks, these becoming too friable and brittle to obtain a commercial quality product.

[0024] Since obtaining cleaning properties requires the incorporation of surfactants, it quickly became apparent that the use of ionic surfactants was to be avoided, as this resulted in a significant reduction in the heating effect of the formula obtained, probably due to interference of their ionic species with the physical process allowing the heating effect specific to the hydration of the zeolite, small ions being likely to compete with the water molecules during their adsorption. In addition to obtaining cleaning properties, the addition of an appropriate surfactant contributes, as does the choice of oil, to maintaining the heating properties of the stick during its use, by facilitating or not the access of water to the active sites of the zeolite. Thus, the choice made was that of a surfactant chosen from non-ionics, at a content of between 2% and 8% by mass. Preferably, polyglyceryl-2 laurate or sodium stearoyl glutamate were used, at contents of between 3.5% and 6.5% by mass.

[0025] Thus, the applicant company had to carry out a major program of selection of formulation ingredients: in addition to selecting a non-ionic surfactant and polar waxes, it was necessary to select specific ingredients allowing simultaneously obtaining sufficient firmness to allow the mechanical strength of the stick during its use, while retaining a slight malleability and a soft feel. In the first approach, it appeared that such a mixture had to include a polar oil, liquid at 20°C, this allowing obtaining a soft, slightly creamy and melting texture when applying the stick.

[0026] Then, the product also had to include an organogelling mixture, such as a common product like stearic acid combined with palmitic acid. However, since this gives very hard and brittle products, it appeared useful to combine it with another component, such as a butter of hydrogenated palm and rapeseed oils, providing a little more malleability and consistency.

[0027] Finally, the quality of this mixture has been significantly improved by integrating into the formulation a texturizing agent such as a vegetable wax consisting of fatty acid triglycerides, of a grade such that its melting temperature is between 40°C and 60°C, preferably close to 45°C. In addition to this compound making it possible to improve the texture of the product by making it slightly melting and more slippery when applied to the skin, it also contributes to improving the mechanical qualities of the stick, making it less brittle.

[0028] Thus, a specific combination of ingredients was selected as described below: a. An oily compound consisting of a polar oil, at a content of between 20% and 45% by mass. b. A gelling base consisting of: Mainly a mixture in all proportions of hydrogenated vegetable oil butters, whose melting point is between 40°C and 60°C. Secondarily a mixture in all proportions of stearic acid and palmitic acid, the content of which in the gelling base will always be less than or equal to that of the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil butters. The overall content of this gelling base in the composition is between 1% and 20% by mass, depending on the desired texture for the product. c. A heating agent consisting of a hydrophilic zeolite powder rich in aluminum, at a content of between 40% and 65% by mass. d. A non-ionic surfactant, at a content of between 2% and 8% by mass, e. A texturizing agent consisting of a vegetable wax composed of triglycerides of fatty acids, chosen from grades such that its melting point is between 40°C and 60°C, at a content between 0% and 20% by mass.

[0029] Preferably, the polar oil will be chosen from esterified oils, such as coco-caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, alone or as a mixture, at a content of between 25% and 40% by mass.

[0030] Preferably, for the production of sticks, the composition comprises a gelling base consisting solely of a mixture in all proportions of hydrogenated palm and rapeseed oil butters, the melting point of which is between 40°C and 60°C, at a content of between 4% and 12% by mass and is associated with the texturizing agent, incorporated in a content of between 8% and 16% by mass.

[0031] Such a cosmetic composition can be easily manufactured according to a simple procedure comprising the following steps: a. Mixing at a temperature between 50°C and 70°C all the ingredients, except the zeolite powder. b. Incorporation of the zeolite powder, always maintaining the temperature between 50°C and 70°C. c. Pouring into a mold of a suitable shape for making a stick, ensuring that the temperature is kept above 50°C, followed by cooling.

[0032] Such a formulation makes it possible to obtain a composition whose consistency is compatible with its use in a stick, and further characterized during its application by a slight melting effect allowing, by mechanical friction on the skin, to deposit a sufficient quantity of product to allow the latter to be cleaned.

[0033] The invention is preferably intended for use on facial skin, but is not limited thereto; it can also be used on other parts of the body. Thus, the use of the product is carried out by applying the stick to dry skin by simply passing it over the skin; then the user rubs the skin of his face with his hands in order to facilitate the heating effect, the contact of the product with the moisture of the skin alone allowing a particularly pleasant heating effect to be obtained, and also facilitating the cleansing action by promoting the opening of the pores of the skin; finally, the film deposited is removed by rinsing with water.

[0034] In a secondary variant of the invention, the proportions of the ingredients will be modified in order to allow the obtaining of a related physical form, that of a balm. For this purpose, the proportions of the gelling and texturizing agents will be modified as follows: a. The overall content of the gelling base is between 1% and 4% by mass. c. The texturizing agent is incorporated in a content of between 10% and 20% by mass.

[0035] Finally, the composition will include the ingredients or active ingredients whose use is known to those skilled in the art for cosmetic products, such as antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils and colorants. Description of the embodiments

[0036] Formulas and manufacturing methods are now given as examples. Examples

[0037] Example 1. Cleaning-heating stick Procedure: Mix all the raw materials until homogenous by heating them to around 60°C, with the exception of the zeolite powder; then gradually incorporate it while maintaining heating and stirring. When the mixture is homogeneous, pour it hot into the stick packaging, then cool the mixture.

[0038] [Tableauxl] Products % by mass Coco-caprylate / caprate 38.5 Stearic acid and palmitic acid 8.0 Hydrogenated palm and rapeseed oil 8.0 Polyglyceryl-2-laurate 5.0 Tocopherol and soybean oil 0.5 Zeolite 40.0 100.0

[0039] Description of the implementation for use. Apply the stick to dry skin in a single stroke. Rub gently with your fingers in small circular motions to achieve a warming and cleansing effect, then rinse with water.

[0040] Example 2. Cleaning-heating stick Procedure: Mix all the raw materials until homogenous by heating them to around 60°C, with the exception of the zeolite powder; then gradually incorporate it while maintaining heating and stirring. When the mixture is homogeneous, pour it hot into the stick packaging, then cool the mixture.

[0041] [Tables2] Products % by mass Coco-caprylate / caprate 28.5 Vegetable wax (triglycerides of fatty acids) 11.0 Hydrogenated palm and rapeseed oil 5.0 Polyglyceryl-2-laurate 5.0 Tocopherol and soybean oil 0.5 Zeolite 50.0 100.0

[0042] Description of the implementation for use. Apply the stick to dry skin in a single stroke. Rub gently with your fingers in small circular motions to achieve a warming and cleansing effect, then rinse with water.

[0043] Example 3. Cleaning-heating stick Procedure: Mix all the raw materials until homogenous by heating them to around 60°C, with the exception of the zeolite powder; then gradually incorporate it while maintaining heating and stirring. When the mixture is homogeneous, pour it hot into the stick packaging, then cool the mixture.

[0044] [Tables3] Products % by mass Isononyl isonanoate 22.5 Vegetable wax (triglycerides of fatty acids) 8.0 Hydrogenated palm and rapeseed oil 10.0 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 4.0 Tocopherol and soybean oil 0.5 Zeolite 55.0 100.00

[0045] Description of the implementation for use. Apply the stick to dry skin in a single stroke. Rub gently with your fingers in small circular motions to achieve a warming and cleansing effect, then rinse with water.

[0046] Example 4. Cleansing-heating balm Procedure: Mix all the raw materials until homogenous by heating them to around 60°C, with the exception of the zeolite powder; then gradually incorporate it while maintaining heating and stirring. When the mixture is homogeneous, pour it hot into the stick packaging, then cool the mixture.

[0047] [Tables4] Products % by mass Coco-caprylate / caprate 26.5 Vegetable wax (triglycerides of fatty acids) 16.0 Hydrogenated palm and rapeseed oil 2.0 Polyglyceryl-2-laurate 5.0 Tocopherol and soybean oil 0.5 Zeolite 50.0 100.00

[0048] Description of the implementation for use. Apply the balm to dry skin. Rub gently with your fingers in small circular motions to achieve a warming and cleansing effect, then rinse with water.

Claims

Claims

1. Cleansing and heating cosmetic composition consisting of a stick or a balm, characterized in that it comprises: a. An oily compound consisting of a polar oil, at a content of between 20% and 45% by mass. b. A gelling base, the content of which in the composition is between 1% and 20% by mass, and consisting of: i. Mainly a mixture in all proportions of hydrogenated vegetable oil butters, the melting point of which is between 40°C and 60°C. ii. Secondarily of a mixture in all proportions of stearic acid and palmitic acid, the content of which in the gelling base is less than or equal to that of the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil butters. c. A heating agent consisting of a hydrophilic zeolite powder rich in aluminum, at a content of between 40% and 65% by mass. d. A non-ionic surfactant, at a content of between 2% and 8% by mass. e. A texturizing agent consisting of a vegetable wax composed of fatty acid triglycerides, chosen from grades such that its melting point is between 40°C and 60°C, at a content of between 0% and 20% by mass.

2. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polar oil is an esterified oil, such as coco-caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, alone or as a mixture, at a content of between 25% and 40% by mass.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that: a. The gelling base consists solely of a mixture in all proportions of hydrogenated palm and rapeseed oil butters, the melting point of which is between 40°C and 60°C, at a content of between 4% and 12% by mass. b. The texturizing agent is incorporated in a content of between 8% and 16% by mass.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the zeolite is synthetic, the pores of which are of a size less than or equal to 0.3 nanometers, and the content of which in the composition is between 45% and 55% by mass.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the non-ionic surfactant is polyglyceryl-2 laurate or sodium stearoyl glutamate, at a content of between 3.5% and 6.5%.

6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, allowing a balm consistency to be obtained, and characterized in that: a. The overall content of the gelling base is between 1% and 4% by mass. b. The texturizing agent is incorporated in a content of between 10% and 20% by mass.

7. Process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a. Mixing at a temperature between 50°C and 70°C all of the ingredients, with the exception of the zeolite powder. b. Incorporating the zeolite powder, always maintaining the temperature between 50°C and 70°C. c. Pouring into a mold of a shape suitable for producing a stick, ensuring that the temperature is maintained above 50°C, followed by cooling.

8. Use of a cosmetic composition made according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the stick is applied to dry skin by simply passing it over the skin; then, the user rubs the skin of his face with his hands in order to facilitate the heating effect; finally, the deposited film is removed by rinsing with water.