Gelled oily association with blurring effect

Abstract

The present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a gelled oily combination formed of at least: A non-volatile oil of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type, characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C, An absorbent filler having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g, and An organic lipophilic gelling agent.

Description

Title of the invention: Gelled oily association with blurring effect FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field, in particular to compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and in particular of the skin and / or lips. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Consumers are constantly looking for high-performance cosmetic products with good sensoriality and composed mainly of ingredients of natural origin. Silicone compounds, which are non-biodegradable, are thus gradually being replaced.

[0003] Silicone elastomers are a category of silicone ingredients widely used in cosmetics, skincare and makeup, because they provide very specific performance upon application and after application, such as particularly high-performance soft focus perfecting optical properties and sensory properties called the "cushion" effect with a very specific glide. We are therefore looking for new ingredients and / or new combinations aimed at replacing them, with equivalent performance.

[0004] We know the use of ingredients (e.g. fillers) with a soft focus / perfecting effect, but they provide a rough and drying effect impacting the sensoriality of the product. And the use of oils, to improve the comfort of applying these products containing fillers, gives a greasy and sticky effect to the application.

[0005] There therefore remains a need to find new ingredients or new combinations that make it possible to reproduce the soft focus effect, the cushion effect and the glide when applying silicone elastomers.

[0006] It is in this context that the Applicant has developed a new gelled oily combination comprising (i) non-volatile oils with a flash point above 130°C, (ii) absorbent fillers having an oil-taking capacity ranging from 120mL / 100g to 400mL / 100g and (iii) organic lipophilic gelling agents. This combination can be used as is or formulated in a final composition, and provides a blurring effect, a cushion effect and glide on application, without a squeaky, greasy or sticky effect. Summary of the invention

[0007] A first subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a gelled oily combination formed from at least: i. A non-volatile oil of the alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type, characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C, ii. An absorbent filler having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g, and iii. An organic lipophilic gelling agent.

[0008] Preferably, the composition is an anhydrous composition.

[0009] The present invention also relates to a gelled oily association formed from at least: i. 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50 to 70% by weight of non-volatile oil(s) of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type, characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C as defined in the invention, relative to the total weight of the association. ii. 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 30% by weight of filler(s) having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g as defined in the invention, relative to the total weight of the association, and iii. 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight of organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) as defined in the invention, relative to the total weight of the association.

[0010] Another subject of the invention relates to a process for preparing a gelled oily association as defined according to the invention, comprising the steps of: a. mixing the filler(s) (i) with the non-volatile oil(s) (i) until the fillers are saturated, then b. heating the mixture to a temperature preferably between 85 and 110°C then adding the organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) (iii) until a homogeneous gel is obtained.

[0011] The invention also relates to a process for preparing a composition as defined in the invention, comprising at least a first step of preparing a gelled oily association according to the invention.

[0012] Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] A first subject of the invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a gelled oily combination formed from at least:

[0014] (i) A non-volatile oil of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type, characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C,

[0015] (ii) An absorbent filler having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g, and

[0016] (iii) An organic lipophilic gelling agent.

[0017] By "cosmetic composition" is meant any composition for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0018] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0019] By "keratin materials" according to the invention, we mean the skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly the human skin and / or lips. In particular, this will be the skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and the lips. The keratin materials in the context of the invention are healthy, that is to say not presenting any troubles or disorders which would be part of a pathological state ("non-healthy" subjects, suffering from a pathology). We will speak indifferently of healthy skin and / or lips or skin and / or lips in the remainder of the description.

[0020] Preferably, the composition is an anhydrous composition.

[0021] By “anhydrous” composition, it is meant in particular that water is not deliberately added to the composition of the invention but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is free of water.

[0022] The gelled oily combination formed from the 3 ingredients (i) to (iii) according to the invention provides a blurring effect, a cushion effect and glide on application.

[0023] By blurring or soft-focus effect, it is meant according to the invention that the combination according to the invention is capable of mattifying and / or optically smoothing the microrelief of the skin, reducing the visibility of skin imperfections.

[0024] By “cushion” effect, it is meant according to the invention that the combination is capable of providing a sensation of consistency and thickness under the finger upon application, a bouncy effect.

[0025] By "slide" on application, it is meant according to the invention that the association or composition according to the invention does not generate a sensation of braking or squeaking when the application.

[0026] The gelled oily association according to the invention can be used as is or incorporated into a final composition further comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient. Gelled oily association

[0027] The gelled oily association according to the invention is thus formed from at least (i) one or more non-volatile oil(s) of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type, with a flash point above 130°C (non-volatile oils), (ii) one or more absorbent filler(s) having an oil uptake ranging from 120mL / 100g to 400mL / 100g and (iii) one or more organic, polymeric or non-polymeric lipophilic gelling agent(s).

[0028] “By association formed of at least ingredients (i) to (iii)”, we mean according to the invention an association comprising or consisting essentially of ingredients (i) to (iii), in other words ingredients (i) to (iii) will generally represent a content of at least 80% by weight, in particular at least 85% by weight, 90% by weight, at least 95% by weight, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99%, or even 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the association.

[0029] By “oil” is meant a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0030] Non-volatile oils having a flash point above 130°C

[0031] The flash point of an oil is defined as the lowest temperature at which the vapor above an oil will momentarily ignite or flash if / when an ignition source is passed over or exposed to it.

[0032] The flash point is measured in particular according to ASTM Standard D93-02a

[0033] These non-volatile oils have a dry feel, are not very viscous and have a non-greasy and non-shiny finish.

[0034] The non-volatile oils used according to the invention are advantageously chosen from non-volatile alkanes and non-volatile mixtures of C8-C30 alkanes, preferably non-volatile alkanes and non-volatile mixtures of C10-C25 alkanes, better still C15-C19 alkanes and mixtures of alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] By 'non-volatile C8-C30 alkanes' is meant in particular C15-C30 alkanes.

[0036] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises a non-volatile mixture of C8-C30 alkanes, in particular C10-C25, or even C15-C21.

[0037] According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more non-volatile C15-C30 alkanes, in particular C15-C19 alkanes or mixtures of alkanes.

[0038] As non-volatile C15-C19 alkanes, we can notably cite the references following commercial: - VEGELIGHT 1618LC from the company Biosynthis, with INCI name C15-19 ALKANE (and) COCO-CAPRYLATE CAPRATE; - VEGELIGHT 1820 from the company Biosynthis, with INCI name Cl8-21 ALKANE EMOGREEN L19 from the company SEPPIC, with INCI name C15-19 ALKANE.

[0039] As hydrogenated polyisobutenes having a flash point above 130°C, the following commercial references may be mentioned in particular: PARLEAM® LITE (POLYSYNLANE LITE) from NOF Corporation, CAS No. 68937-10-0 and INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, PARLEAM® (POLYSYNLANE) from NOF Corporation, CAS No. 68937-10-0 and INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene.

[0040] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile oils used according to the invention are chosen from non-volatile alkanes and non-volatile mixtures of C8-C30 alkanes, preferably non-volatile alkanes and non-volatile mixtures of C10-C25 alkanes, more preferably C15-C19 alkanes and mixtures of alkanes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene.

[0041] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oils used according to the invention are chosen from non-volatile alkanes and non-volatile mixtures of C8-C30 alkanes, preferably non-volatile alkanes and non-volatile mixtures of C10-C25 alkanes, more preferably C15-C19 alkanes and mixtures of alkanes.

[0042] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oils having a flash point above 130°C will be present in the gelled oily association of the invention in a content ranging from 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the association.

[0043] According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile oils having a flash point above 130°C will be present in the final composition of the invention in a content ranging from 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

[0044] Absorbent fillers with an oil uptake capacity ranging from 120 mL / 100 g to 400 mL / 100 g (otherwise called 'main' fillers according to the invention for the optical blurring effect)

[0045] By "fillers" is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to confer a mattifying effect. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape: platelet, spherical or oblong.

[0046] Preferably, the fillers are mineral fillers and preferably spherical mineral fillers.

[0047] Preferably, the fillers are spherical particles having a volume median size D50 less than or equal to 25 pm, in particular less than or equal to 20 pm. According to a particular embodiment, the volume median size ranges from 3 to 20 pm, in particular from 5 to 15 pm.

[0048] By “median size in volume” we mean the dimension given by the statistical granulometric distribution to half of the population, called D50 measured with the Malvern-Mastersizer Laser Granulometer.

[0049] The fillers according to the invention are fillers having a capacity to absorb and / or adsorb an oil or a liquid fatty substance, and to confer a blurring effect after application to the skin.

[0050] By blurring or soft-focus effect, it is meant that the fillers used according to the invention are capable of reducing the visibility of skin imperfections, by an immediate optical effect. This blurring effect can be evaluated with the naked eye, after application of the combination according to the invention on the back of the hand by evaluating the level of erasure of the microrelief. The effect can also be evaluated by capturing an image before and after application on the face using a NEXA type device from the Canfield company. Image processing allows a quantitative analysis to be carried out, in particular by visualizing the pores and wrinkles / fine lines.

[0051] Thus, the absorbent fillers according to the invention can be characterized by their oil absorption otherwise called 'oil uptake' or 'oil uptake', expressed in milliliters of oil per gram of filler (ml / g).

[0052] This oil uptake corresponds to the quantity of oil absorbed and / or adsorbed by the load and can be characterized by measuring the oil uptake according to standard methods. In particular, the method for determining the powder oil uptake described in standard NF T 30-022 can be cited, and corresponding to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the load, expressed as the volume of oil adsorbed over the mass of the load.

[0053] According to a particular and preferred mode, the following method will be used for taking oil:

[0054] - we pour the artificial sebum (25% Jojoba oil, 15% squalane and 60% miglyol 829 (CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE) on 1 g of powder (test load);

[0055] - with the spatula, gently mix in the powder, slightly crushing it, the objective being to arrive at a mastic paste which does not crumble and comes off easily;

[0056] - the result is recorded in ml of artificial sebum per 1 g of powder. It is necessary to convert in ml / 100 g by multiplying the reading value by 100;

[0057] - the measurement is to be carried out twice on each sample, if the difference between these 2 measurements are greater than 0.05 ml, a 3rd measurement is taken.

[0058] The absorbent fillers used according to the invention have an oil uptake capacity greater than or equal to 120 mL / 100 g and less than or equal to 400 mL / 100 g.

[0059] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, fillers are used having an oil uptake capacity of between 150 mL / 100 g and 350 mL / 100 g, preferably between 200 mL / 100 g and 300 mL / 100 g.

[0060] Preferably, these will be mineral fillers having an oil uptake capacity greater than or equal to 120 mL / 100 g and less than or equal to 400 mL / 100 g.

[0061] Non-limiting examples of fillers that can be used according to the invention are described in the following table 1:

[0062] [Tables 1] Fillers (commercial reference) INCI Name Form Size (in pm) Oil uptake (mL / 100g) SUNSPHERE- H33 SILICA Porous spheres 3 300-400 SUNSPHERE H-52 SILICA Porous spheres 5 300 RESIFA FB-82 SILICA Irregular spheres 6-8 245 SPHERICA BA-1 SILICA spheres 8-28 150 FLORITE PS-10 CALCIUM SILICATE Porous spheres 10 320

[0063] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the fillers having an oil uptake capacity greater than or equal to 120 mL / 100 g and less than or equal to 400 mL / 100 g will be chosen from silica powders, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads, silicates and their mixtures.

[0064] The composition may also comprise additional fillers, distinct from the main fillers mentioned above for the optical blurring effect, in particular to improve the texture and / or the mattness and / or the sensoriality of the composition. These additional fillers may be mineral fillers, organic fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Among the additional charges that can be used, we can cite in particular:

[0066] - silica powders treated with lauroyl lysine,

[0067] - lauroyl lysine powder fermented by saccharomyces,

[0068] - cellulose powders, cellulose balls,

[0069] - starch powders,

[0070] - boron nitride powders,

[0071] - lauroyl lysine,

[0072] - calcium carbonate,

[0073] and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Among these additional charges, we can notably cite the following commercial references: - AMILON from the Ikeda company, with INCI name: Silica and lauroyl lysine, - Granpowder BBP-700 from Grant Industries, INCI name: Sac-charomyces Ferment (and) Lauroyl Lysine, - Cellulobeads USF or Naturesoft 800 with INCI name: cellulose,

[0075] and their mixtures.

[0076] These additional charges will be used in contents that do not impact the Boutant optical effect provided by the main charges.

[0077] These additional fillers will be used in a total content lower than the aforementioned main fillers, in particular in a content 2 to 6 times lower than the total content of the main fillers. Thus, according to the invention, the ratio of the total content of main fillers to the total content of additional fillers will range in particular from 6:1 to 2:1, in particular 5:1 to 3:1, preferably 4:1.

[0078] By way of example and according to a preferred embodiment, for a total filler content (main and additional) of 25% by weight in the gelled oily association (or in the final composition), 20% of main fillers and 5% of additional fillers by weight will be used in the gelled oily association (or in the final composition).

[0079] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, at least one silica powder will be used as the main filler and advantageously in addition an additional filler chosen from lauroyl lysine treated silica powders, lauroyl lysine powders fermented by saccharomyces and their mixture.

[0080] The preferred charge associations according to the invention are in particular: - Silica (Sunsphere H33 or RESIFA FB-82) and lauroyl lysine treated silica (Amilon), such as Sunsphere H33 / Amilon or / Amilon combinations, in a ratio ranging from 5:1 to 3:1, preferably 4:1; and - Silica (Sunsphere H33 or RESIFA FB-82) and lauroyl lysine fermented by saccharomyces Granspowder BBP-700, such as the Sunsphere H-33 / Granspowder BBP-700 combination, in a ratio ranging from 5:1 to 3:1, preferably 4:1.

[0081] The total content of fillers in the gelled oily association according to the invention will range in particular from 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily association.

[0082] In the final composition, the total filler content will also range in particular from 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

[0083] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the gelled oily association according to the invention comprises at least: i. 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50 to 70% by weight of non-volatile oils of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C, as defined above, relative to the total weight of the gelled oily association, ii. 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 30% by weight of filler(s) having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g, as defined above, relative to the total weight of the gelled oily association, and iii. 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight of organic lipophilic gelling agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] Preferably, we will use: i. 50 to 70% by weight of non-volatile alkanes or non-volatile mixtures of C8-C30 alkanes, more preferably non-volatile alkanes or non-volatile mixtures of C10-C25 alkanes, preferably 15-C19 alkanes or mixtures of alkanes, relative to the total weight of the gelled oily combination, and ii. 20 to 30% by weight of mineral fillers, preferably silica powders, having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g, relative to the total weight of the gelled oily association and iii. 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight of organic lipophilic gelling agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] These filler and oil contents respectively thus allow total absorption of said oils by said fillers; we speak of saturation of the fillers by the oils. The mixture of fillers and oils according to the invention forms a homogeneous fluid to viscous mixture, with an optical blurring effect.

[0086] In addition to non-volatile oils with a flash point above 130°C and fillers with an oil uptake capacity ranging from 120mL / 100g to 400mL / 100g, the gelled oily combination will also comprise at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent.

[0087] Organic lipophilic gelling agents

[0088] The organic lipophilic gelling agents used according to the invention will provide texture and the desired 'cushion' effect to the aforementioned mixture of oils and fillers.

[0089] By “lipophilic gelling agent” is meant a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the association according to the invention.

[0090] The organic lipophilic gelling agents may be chosen from polymeric or non-polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] As polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of - polyamide type polycondensates, - L-glutamic acid amides, - polyurethane gelling agents, - associative polymers derived from castor oil, - and their mixtures.

[0092] As non-polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of: - hydroxystearic acid, - esters of glycerol and C18-C24 fatty acid(s), - sorbitan oleate, - and their mixtures.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment, the gelled oily association comprises at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent, polymeric or not, chosen from polycondensates of polyamide type, amides of L-glutamic acid, hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Polyamide type polycondensates

[0095] For the purposes of the invention, the term “polycondensate” means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0096] According to a particular embodiment, the polycondensate is a polyamide with ester termination and / or a poly(ester-amides) with ester termination.

[0097] Mention may in particular be made of a poly(ester-amide) with an ester end obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acid ends being esterified by stearyl alcohol (Cl8). The copolymer thus obtained is a dimer copolymer of ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine dibenzoate / neopentyl glycol / stearyl, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8. The copolymer with the INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is for example marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA.

[0098] L-glutamic acid amides

[0099] L-Glutamic acid amides (glutamides) preferably comprise at least one alkyl group comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, for example 8 or 12 carbon atoms. Such a glutamic acid amide is for example described in patent FR 2 820 739. The glutamides are preferably chosen from dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, and mixtures thereof, and may be, for example, one of the products of the brands EB-21, GP-1, AJK-OD2046, AJK-BG2055, and AJK-CE2046, manufactured by the company Ajinomoto. The glutamide is, for example, chosen from dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, or mixtures thereof.

[0100] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the mixture of dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide sold under the reference AJK-OD2046 with INCI name: OCTYLDODECANOL and DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE and DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE will be used.

[0101] Hydroxystearic acid

[0102] As hydroxystearic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid, we can cite in particular the commercial reference CASID® HSA.

[0103] As polyurethane gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of the product marketed under the name Oilkemia 5S CC, with the INCI name: Polyurethane-69 (copolymer resulting from the reaction of hydrogenated polybutanediol, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, hydrogenated dilinoleyl alcohol, and 1,4-butanediol, and which is capped with stearyl alcohol) or Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated C6-20 Polyolefin (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

[0104] As associative polymers derived from castor oil, mention may be made in particular of the gelling agents from the EstoGel® range from the company PolymerExpert, in particular the Estogel Green product with the INCI name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER.

[0105] As esters of glycerol and C18-C24 fatty acid(s), mention may be made in particular of the ester of glycerol and C22 behenic acid such as glyceryl behenate / eico-sadioate marketed under the name NOMCORT HK-G by the company KOBO.

[0106] As sorbitan oleate, we can cite in particular the product marketed under the name OLIVEM 900 MB with the INCI name: SORBITAN OLIVATE.

[0107] According to a particular embodiment, the gelled oily association, or the composition comprising it, comprises at least two distinct organic lipophilic gelling agents, polymeric or not, chosen from polycondensates of polyamide type, amides of L-glutamic acid, hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] In particular, the gelled oily association, or the composition comprising it, comprises at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from polyamide-type polycondensates, L-glutamic acid amides and mixtures thereof and at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from hydroxystearic acid,

[0109] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the gelled oily association, or the composition comprising it, comprises at least one hydroxystearic acid and in addition a or several additional organic lipophilic gelling agents chosen from polyamide-type polycondensates, L-glutamic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

[0110] According to another particular embodiment, the gelled oily association, or the composition comprising it, comprises at least one polycondensate of polyamide type and in addition one or more additional organic lipophilic gelling agents chosen from amides of L-glutamic acid and hydroxystearic acid.

[0111] More preferably, the gelled oily association, or the composition comprising it, comprises at least one polycondensate of polyamide type, an amide of L-glutamic acid and hydroxystearic acid gelling agent,

[0112] The use of several organic lipophilic gelling agents makes it possible to improve the texture and sensorial properties upon application of the gelled oily oil according to the invention or the composition comprising it. According to another particular embodiment, the gelled oily combination comprises at least: - A polyamide-type polycondensate, such as Oleocraft LP-20 and - A hydroxystearic acid, such as Casid HSA.

[0113] According to another particular embodiment, the gelled oily association comprises at least: - A polycondensate of polyamide type, such as Oleocraft LP-20, - An amide of L-glutamic acid, such as AJK OD2046, and - A hydroxystearic acid, such as Casid® HSA.

[0114] Preferably, the total content of organic lipophilic gelling agents will range from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight of organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the gelled oily association.

[0115] In the final composition, the total content of organic lipophilic gelling agents will generally also range from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight of organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the final composition.

[0116] A person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the respective contents of each gelling agent, in the gelled oily combination, according to their gelling power.

[0117] According to a particular embodiment, the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents will generally be present in a total content ranging from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily association and the non-polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents will generally be present in a total content ranging from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily association.

[0118] Thus, another object of the invention is a gelled oily association formed from at least: i. 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50 to 70% by weight of non-volatile oil(s) of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C, as defined in the invention, relative to the total weight of the association. ii. 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 30% by weight of filler(s) having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g, as defined in the invention, relative to the total weight of the association, and iii. 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight of organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) as defined in the invention, relative to the total weight of the association.

[0119] According to a particular mode: i. non-volatile oils are C15-C19 alkanes, or hydrogenated polyisobutenes, ii. the fillers having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120 ml / 100 g and less than or equal to 400 ml / 100 g are chosen from silica powders, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads, silicates and mixtures thereof, preferably silica powders, optionally combined with additional fillers chosen from silica powders treated with lauroyl lysine or a lauroyl lysine powder fermented by Sac-charomyces, and iii. the organic lipophilic gelling agents are selected from the group consisting of polyamide-type polycondensates, L-glutamic acid amides, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] According to a particular embodiment, a gelled oily association according to the invention comprises: i. From 50 to 70% of C15-C19 alkanes, or hydrogenated polyisobutenes, ii. From 10 to 20% by weight of silica powders as fillers having a setting of oil greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400 ml / 100g, and optionally in addition from 5 to 10% by weight of additional fillers chosen from lauroyl lysine treated silicas and lauroyl lysine fermented by Saccharomyces, iii. From 5 to 15% by weight of hydroxy stearic acid, and optionally in addition from 5 to 15% by weight of additional organic lipophilic gelling agents chosen from polyamide-type polycondensates, L-glutamic acid amides, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] According to another particular embodiment, a gelled oily association according to the invention comprises: i. From 50 to 70% of C15-C19 alkanes, or hydrogenated polyisobutenes, ii. From 10 to 20% by weight of silica powders as fillers having a setting of oil greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400 ml / 100g, and possibly in addition 5 to 10% by weight of additional fillers tionals chosen from lauroyl lysine treated silicas and lauroyl lysine fermented by Saccharomyces, iii. From 5 to 15% by weight of polyamide-type polycondensate, and optionally in addition from 5 to 15% by weight of additional organic lipophilic gelling agents chosen from L-glutamic acid amides, hydroxy stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0122] The gelled oily association according to the invention is generally prepared in 2 successive stages:

[0123] a) mixing the filler(s) having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120 ml / 100 g and less than or equal to 400 ml / 100 g with the non-volatile oil(s) of the alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type with a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C until saturation of the fillers (complete absorption of the oils by the fillers), then

[0124] b) heating the mixture to a temperature preferably between 85 and 110°C then adding the organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) as defined previously until a homogeneous gel is obtained.

[0125] Thus, another object of the invention is a process for preparing a gelled oily association as defined above, comprising the steps of: a. mixing the filler(s) having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120 ml / 100 g and less than or equal to 400 ml / 100 g with the non-volatile oil(s) of the alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type with a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C until the fillers are saturated, then b. heating the mixture to a temperature preferably between 85 and 110°C then adding the organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) as defined previously until a homogeneous gel is obtained.

[0126] The gelled oily association according to the invention can be used as is or incorporated into a so-called final composition comprising said gelled oily association and at least one additional cosmetic ingredient.

[0127] When incorporated into a final composition, the gelled oily phase may represent up to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] According to a particular embodiment, the gelled oily phase represents from 70 to 99% by weight, in particular from 80 to 98% by weight, or even from 90 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] The invention therefore also relates to a process for preparing a final composition comprising at least a first step of preparing a gelled oily association as defined above. Cosmetic composition (final)

[0130] Another object of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically ac- acceptable, a gelled oily association formed of at least: i. A non-volatile oil of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C, ii. An absorbent filler having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g, and iii. An organic lipophilic gelling agent.

[0131] Non-volatile oils of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C (i), absorbent fillers having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g (ii) and organic lipophilic gelling agents (iii) are as defined previously in the gelled oily association.

[0132] According to a particular embodiment, the organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) (iii) are chosen from the group consisting of polycondensates of polyamide type, amides of L-glutamic acid, hydroxy stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] Preferably, the composition comprises at least two distinct organic lipophilic gelling agents, polymeric or not, chosen from polycondensates of polyamide type, amides of L-glutamic acid, hydroxystearic acid.

[0134] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least hydroxystearic acid and optionally an additional organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from polyamide-type polycondensates, L-glutamic acid amides, and their mixture.

[0135] According to another particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from polyamide-type polycondensates and optionally an additional organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from L-glutamic acid amides, hydroxystearic acid, and their mixture.

[0136] More preferably, the composition comprises hydroxystearic acid, a polyamide-type polycondensate and an amide of L-glutamic acid.

[0137] According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile oil(s) of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type chosen from non-volatile alkanes and non-volatile mixtures of C8-C30 alkanes, preferably non-volatile alkanes and non-volatile mixtures of C10-C25 alkanes, better still C15-C19 alkanes and mixtures of alkanes, or hydrogenated polyisobutenes.

[0138] According to a particular embodiment, the filler(s) having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120 ml / 100 g and less than or equal to 400 ml / 100 g (ii) are chosen from silica powders, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads, silicates and their mixtures, preferably silica powders.

[0139] According to a particular embodiment, the (final) composition further comprises one or more additional fillers, chosen in particular from treated silica powders by lauroyl lysine, saccharomyces-fermented lauroyl lysine powder, cellulose powders, cellulose beads, starch powders, boron nitride powders, calcium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from silica and amino acid powders, saccharomyces-fermented lauroyl lysine powder, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] The (final) composition of the invention may comprise, in addition to the gelled oily association, at least one additional cosmetic ingredient chosen from additional oils, distinct from the oils previously described, coloring materials, dispersing agents, film-forming agents, structuring or thickening agents, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] According to a particular embodiment, the additional ingredient(s) represent a total content of less than or equal to 30% by weight, or even less than or equal to 20% by weight, or even less than or equal to 10% by weight, or even less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] The oily phase of the composition may thus comprise additional oils.

[0143] Preferably, additional hydrocarbon oils, preferably non-volatile, will be used.

[0144] In particular, the hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, C10-C26, ester oils, oils of vegetable origin, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0145] As oils of plant origin, we can cite in particular: Sunflower oil, jojoba oil, castor oil and their mixtures.

[0146] Among the ester oils, we can notably cite:

[0147] - esters of fatty alcohols and C8-C18 fatty acids, in particular coco-caprylate caprate which is an ester of naturally occurring fatty alcohol (e.g. coconut), caprylic acid and capric acid,

[0148] - synthetic esters such as oils of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri re has the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri+R2 is greater than or equal to 16, such as for example isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate;

[0149] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl 10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0150] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0151] - esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids;

[0152] - oligomeric polyesters of dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; we can notably cite dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (e.g.: Lusplan™); to keep

[0153] - esters of amino acid derivatives; we can cite in particular Di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g. Eldew®);

[0154] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of carbo- carboxylic acid(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0155] - and their mixtures.

[0156] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of volatile oils, preferably less than 3% by weight, better still is free of volatile oils.

[0157] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil having lost 4% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 8% by weight or more, and even more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of said oil, after 60 minutes in an enclosure at 33°C and 50% humidity, following the protocol described in the following paragraph.

[0158] Protocol for determining whether an oil is volatile:

[0159] 20 mg of the oil to be studied are weighed on a 5cm x 5cm PMMA plate at using a micropipette and a precision balance. This material is spread with the finger over the entire plate. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber thermostatically controlled at 33°C and 50% humidity. For each material, the test is carried out three times. The loss in mass during drying is measured after 60 minutes. The mass lost is expressed according to the following formula:

[0160] [Math.l] ---— X 100

[0161] in which:

[0162] mtx corresponds to the remaining mass at the measured time (t = 60 minutes), and

[0163] mtO corresponds to the mass initially applied.

[0164] The oily phase may also comprise a “fatty phase structuring agent” chosen in particular from waxes, additional gelling agents other than those mentioned above, pasty fatty substances, as well as mixtures thereof,

[0165] According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% of silicone compound, preferably less than 2% by weight, better still less than 1% by weight, or even is devoid of silicone compound.

[0166] In particular, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of silicone elastomer, preferably less than 2% by weight, better still less than 1% by weight, or even is free of silicone elastomer.

[0167] According to a particular embodiment, it will comprise at least coloring materials, preferably at least pigments.

[0168] By “pigments” we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0169] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) are in particular chosen from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), nacres or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0170] Among the “mineral pigments”, we can cite, as examples, titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0171] Among the “organic pigments”, we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red n° 19; D & C red n° 9; D & C Red n° 22; D & C Red n° 21; D & C Red n° 28; D & C Yellow n° 6; D & C orange n° 4; D & C orange n° 5; D & C Red n° 27; D & C red n° 13; D & C Red n° 7; D & C Red n° 6; D & C Yellow n° 5; D & C Red n° 36; D & C Red n° 33; D & C orange n° 10; D & C yellow n° 6; D & C Red n° 30; D & C red n° 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and lakes based on cochineal carmine.

[0172] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least iron oxides.

[0173] Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oily phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0174] The content of coloring materials, when present, may range from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] These coloring materials, in particular when they are pigments, are generally pre-dispersed in a dispersing agent, before incorporation into the composition.

[0176] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0177] (i) 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50 to 70% by weight of non-volatile oils of the type hydrogenated alkane or polyisobutene characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C, as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0178] (ii) 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 30% by weight of filler(s) having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g, as defined previously relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0179] (iii) 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight of organic lipophilic gelling agent(s), as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0180] (iv) optionally in addition coloring materials, in particular pigments.

[0181] According to a preferred embodiment, in the composition of the invention:

[0182] (i) the non-volatile oils are C15-C19 alkanes, or hy polyisobutenes drugged,

[0183] (ii) the fillers having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g are chosen from silica powders, amorphous silica microspheres, silica micro-beads, silicates and mixtures thereof, preferably silica powders, optionally associated with additional fillers chosen from silica powders treated with lauroyl lysine or a lauroyl lysine powder fermented by Saccharomyces,

[0184] (iii) the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are chosen from the group consisting of polyamide-type polycondensates, L-glutamic acid amides, hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof, and

[0185] (iv) the coloring matters are pigments, in particular iron oxides.

[0186] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is an anhydrous composition.

[0187] In particular, it may be a fluid composition or a solid composition.

[0188] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" means a composition which does not flow under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called liquid or fluid compositions.

[0189] A solid composition may be in the form of a stick or a composition cast in a cup.

[0190] The hardness of the sticks can also be measured at 20°C by the so-called “butter wire” method, which consists of cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical in revolution, transversely using a rigid metal wire of diameter 250 pm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram force (Gf) and can be measured using a texturometer of the Texturometer TAXT Plus type. Preferably, the value obtained should be between 60 and 120Gf, in particular from 80 to 100Gf.

[0191] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is fluid and may in particular be in the form of a perfecting base for the face (otherwise called 'primer'), a gloss, a serum, an oily gel, an oil, a liquid blush, in particular for lip or cheek makeup.

[0192] In particular, it will be a gloss or oily gel for the lips.

[0193] According to another mode, it will be a primer for the face, a liquid blush for the cheeks or a fluid foundation.

[0194] According to another particular embodiment, the composition is solid and may in particular be in the form of a stick, a compact powder, an eyeshadow, a blush or cheek shadow, in particular for making up the skin (e.g.: eyelids, cheeks), or the lips.

[0195] In particular, it will be a lip stick, a complexion-perfecting primer, or a foundation stick.

[0196] According to another mode, it will be an eye shadow or a blush.

[0197] It may be a care composition, tinted or not, or a composition of makeup, especially for the skin and / or lips. It can also be a base composition, applied before a second composition ('top coat').

[0198] This will in particular be a skin care product, in particular an anti-aging facial skin care product or a makeup composition for the skin such as a primer or complexion perfector for the facial skin. Cosmetic process

[0199] The invention also relates to a method

[0200] cosmetic for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in the invention.

[0201] The composition may be the gelled oily association as is, or a final composition as defined above.

[0202] Preferred gelled oily combinations and final compositions are described above.

[0203] In particular, the applied composition comprises: i. 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50 to 70% by weight of non-volatile oils of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably C15-C19 alkanes, ii. 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 30% by weight of filler(s) having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g relative to the total weight of the composition, as defined above, preferably silica powders optionally associated with additional fillers chosen from silica powders treated with lauroyl lysine or a lauroyl lysine powder fermented by Saccharomyces, iii. 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight of organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably a hydroxystearic acid optionally associated with a polyamide polycondensate and / or an amide of L-glutamic acid, and iv. optionally in addition coloring matters, in particular pigments, preferably iron oxides.

[0204] Preferably it is an anhydrous composition.

[0205] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is applied to the skin for its immediate optical blurring effect, aimed at reducing the visibility of visual or tactile imperfections.

[0206] According to another method, the composition is applied to the lips, to give a velvet effect to the lips.

[0207] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The % are expressed as % by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0208] Example 1: Selection of a mixture of fillers and non-volatile oils

[0209] Different oil / filler blends, in a 75 / 25 ratio, are prepared and evaluated for their texture properties, optical blurring effect and sensoriality upon application.

[0210] As oils, volatile alkanes (C9-C12 alkanes, product VEGELIGHT SILK) and non-volatile alkanes with a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C were used respectively. (C15-C19, product VEGELIGHT 1618). In another experiment, hydrogenated polyisobutenes (product POLYSYNLANE) were also tested, as other non-volatile oils with a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C.

[0211] The mixtures were prepared according to the following protocol: the filler is added in fine rain into the tested oil, with stirring. Slow stirring is carried out and then the stirring is gradually increased until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0212] The criteria evaluated by a panel of formulation experts are as follows: texture of the gel, optical effect, color of the film on the skin and sensoriality after application to the skin.

[0213] Ratings are given for each of the criteria.

[0214] “OK”: homogeneous gel texture / blurring effect / no white film on the skin / soft and powdery touch

[0215] “KO”: release or sedimentation of the charge / no blurring effect / white film on skin / dry and rough feel

[0216] In the following table, 'OK' means that the oil / charge mixture satisfies the 4 evaluated criteria and 'KO' means that at least one of the criteria is not satisfied (noted in the table below).

[0217] The results are presented in the following table:

[0218] [Tables2] Trade name INCI name Oil uptake mL / 100 g Size pm Form With volatile oil (C9-C12 alkanes) comparati f With non-volatile oil alkane type (C15-C19 alkanes) invention With non-volatile oil hydrogenated polyisobutene type invention Sunsphere-H33 Silica 300-400 3 Porous spheres KO white film and dry and crunchy feel on the skin OK OK Sunsphere H-52 Silica 300 5 Porous spheres KO White film OK OK RESIFA FB-82 Silica 292 6-8 bol KO White film OK Slight release but acceptable. Immediate blurring. Oil absorption: Pleasant sensoriality although slightly crunchy OK Slight dry and crunchy effect Florite R (comparative) Calciu m silicate 705 30 KO Too strong absorption Saturation KO Rapid saturation of the charge at this nd solvent rate

[0219] Nd: not determined (not tested)

[0220] These results show that non-volatile oils with a flash point above 130°C, such as C15-C19 alkanes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, make it possible to obtain, in association with fillers having an oil uptake ranging from 120mL / 100g to 400ml / 100g, a homogeneous gelled texture / blurring effect / no white film on the skin / soft and powdery feel, compared to volatile oils (volatile alkanes) associated with the same fillers.

[0221] Example 2: Optimization of load association

[0222] Several commercial references of silica according to the invention were tested in association with other fillers in a 20 / 5 ratio (20 silica / 5 other filler), in a mixture with the non-volatile oil C15-C19) in the same ratio as that used in example 1 (oil / filler ratio of 75 / 25).

[0223] [Tables3] Trade name INCI name Silica / other filler ratios Result Sunsphere H33 / Amilon Silica / Silica (and) lauroyl lysine 20 / 5 Improved sensoriality and blurring effect RESIFA FB-82 / Amilon Silica / Silica (and) lauroyl lysine 20 / 5 Improved sensoriality and blurring effect Sunsphere H-33 / Granpowder BBP-700 Silica / Sac-charomyces ferment (and) lauroyl lysine 20 / 5 Cushion gel texture, improved sensoriality and blurring effect

[0224] These results show that it may be advantageous to use at least 2 fillers of different nature to improve the optical and sensory properties of the composition. Example 3: Gelling agents

[0225] Different gelling agents were tested, respectively at a content of 25% by weight in the mixture or a content of 5% by weight in the mixture according to their gelling power.

[0226] These mixtures were prepared according to the following protocol: the fillers and the oil were mixed until the fillers were saturated (complete absorption of the oil) then the mixture was heated to a temperature between 85°C and 110°C and the oily gelling agent was added until a homogeneous gel was obtained.

[0227] The gel can be formulated subsequently, for example an anhydrous composition, or used as is directly, after shaping by casting by adjusting the gelling rate.

[0228] 3-1. Gelling agents at 25% by weight in the mixture (50% oil / 25% filler / 25% gelling agent)

[0229] [Tables4] MP INCI % % % % Sunsphere H-33 Silica 25 25 25 25 Vegelight 1618 LC C15-19 ALKANE (and) COCO-CAPRYLATE CAPRATE 50 50 50 50 AJK OD-2046 at 20% in MA* OCTYLDODECANO L and DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE and DIBUTYL ETHYL- HEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE 25 Oilkemia 5S CC at 30% in MA* Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hy-drogenated C6-20 Po-lyolefin (and) HDL Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer 25 Oleocraft LP-20 POLYAMIDE-8 25 Estogel Green HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER 25 Evaluation Appearance: Compact, elastic gel, translucent Evaluation Appearance: Compact, elastic, translucent gel Evaluation Appearance: Slightly structured, elastic gel, Sensory evaluation Rather fluid gel, yellowish in appearance Sensory evaluation: sensory sensory: effect silicone effect silicone effect effect (gummy (gummy, silicone silicone, cushion, cushion, (gummy (gummy soft)with soft) effect, cushion, , cushion, light optical effect matte soft)with soft)with blurring. effect effect optical optical finish optical effect matte, matte, sticky and blurring. blurring. squeaky, Light Light but lack of lack of acceptable slips and slips and Stability: effect effect light powdery powdered release, squeaky, squeaky, acceptable. but but acceptable acceptable Stability: Stability: OK OK

[0230] MA*= active ingredient

[0231] 3-2 Gelling agents at 5% by weight in the mixture (70% oil / 25% filler / 5% gelling agent)

[0232] [Tables5] MP INCI % % % Sunsphere-H33 silica 25 25 25 Vegelight 1618 LC C15-19 ALKANE (and) COCO-CAPRYL ATE CAPRATE 70 70 70 Casid HSA Hydroxy stearic acid 5 Nomcort HK-G GLYCERYL BEHENATE / EICOSADIOAT E 5 Olivem 900 SORBITAN OLIVATE 5 Evaluation Appearance: elastic, thick, translucent gel Sensory evaluation: slippery, optical blurring effect. Appearance: compact, opaque elastic gel Sensory evaluation Good slippery, blurring, soft. Appearance: elastic, supple gel Sensory evaluation: Slippery, soft, very good blurring effect.

[0233] These results show that the lipophilic organic gelling agents, in association with the oils and fillers according to the invention, make it possible to have an elastic gel (cushion gel) with a blurring effect, the best results being obtained with the amides of L-glutamic acid and hydroxy stearic acid.

[0234] Example 4: Optimization of filler / oil / gelling agent associations

[0235] Different combinations of fillers / oils / gelling agents in respective contents of 20-30% fillers / 50-65% oils / 5-25% lipophilic gelling agent were tested. MP INCI % % % % % Sunsphere -H33 silica 20 20 20 20 20 Amilon Silica & lauroyl lysine 5 10 Granpowd er BBP-700 SACCHAROMY CES FERMENT (and) LAUROYL LYSINE 5 5 10 Vegelight 1618 LC C15-19 ALKANE (and) COCO-CAPRYL ATE CAPRATE 50 50 65 65 65 Casid HSA Hydroxystearic acid 5 5 5 AJK OD-2046 (20% in MA*) OCTYLDODEC ANOL and DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE and DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXAN OYL GLUTAMIDE 25 25 Evaluation Appearance: Compact, elastic gel translucent Sensory evaluation: Appearance: Fluid, elastic, opaque gel Sensory Evaluation: slightly Appearance: Compact, translucent, elastic gel Sensory Evaluation: Appearance: Fluid, elastic, opaque gel Sensory Evaluation: slightly Appearance: Compact, elastic, opaque gel Sensory Evaluation: creamy Blurring optical effect oily, powdery finish, soft, slight blurring effect Good blurring effect, less greasy, slight crunchy oily, dry powdery finish, slight blurring effect powdery, rubbery, matte optical effect, blurring

[0237] These results show that the use of several fillers and / or several gelling agents makes it possible to influence the texture, optical effect and sensoriality performance, depending on the desired effect. Example 5: Formulations

[0238]

[0239] 5.1 Gel primer Trade name PHASE INCI % CASID HSA A HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID 5 SP OLEOCRAFT LP- 20 A POLYAMIDE-8 5 SUSNPHERE H- 33 B SILICA 20 AMILON B SILICA AND AMINO ACID 10 EMOGREEN L19 B C15-19 ALKANE 12.5 EMOGREEN L19 C C15-19 ALKANE qsplO 0

[0240]

[0241]

[0242]

[0243] The composition is prepared as described in Example 3. Applied to the skin, the primer leaves a film with mattifying and blurring effects immediate. 5.2 Primer poured into a bucket Trade name PHASE INCI % CASID HSA A HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID 5 SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 A POLYAMIDE-8 15 SUSNPHERE H- 33 B SILICA 20 AMILON B SILICA AND AMINO ACID 10 EMOGREEN L19 B C15-19 ALKANE 12.5 WHITE-B1 TR VAI MB C TITANIUM DIOXIDE CI 77891 2.41 C 339001 SUN PURO YEL. IO TR VAI MB C 338021 SUN PURO RED IRON OX TR VAI MB C 337001 SUN PURO BL IO TR VAI MB C IRON OXIDES CI 77492 0.59 APPLECARE PDS-300 MB C POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (and) ISOSTEARIC ACID (and) LECITHIN (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLY-RICINOLEATE 0.06 EMULMETIK 100 PCR NEGATIVE C SOYBEAN PHOSPHOLIPID 0.04 EMOGREEN L19 C C15-19 ALKANE 0.5 EMOGREEN L19 D C15-19 ALKANE qsplOO

[0244]

[0245]

[0246]

[0247] The gel is prepared according to the procedure of example 3 to which the pigment phase previously obtained by grinding the pigments in the alkanes and the dispersant (Applecare Pds-300MB) is added. Applied to the skin, the primer creates an immediate film with a skin-perfecting effect (camouflage of imperfections, pores and fine lines). 5.3 Stick primer Name PHASE INCI % commercial CASID HSA A HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID 7.5 AJK-OD2046 (20% MA*) A OCTYLDODECANOL and DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE andDIBUTYL ETHYL- HEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE 10 OLEOCRAFT-L P20 A POLYAMIDE-8 5 EMOGREEN L19 B C15-19 ALKANE 35 SUSNPHERE fi- C SILICA 20 AMILON C SILICA AND AMINO ACID 10 EMOGREEN L19 C C15-19 ALKANE 12.5

[0248] MA*= active ingredient

[0249] The composition is prepared according to the following protocol:

[0250] Phases A and B are melted in an oil bath at a temperature of approximately 110°C. under agitation with the deflocculating paddle. The fillers are pre-dispersed in the alkane, then phase C is added to phases A and B with stirring. Applied to the skin, the primer creates a film with immediate mattifying and firming effects.

[0251] 5.4 Untinted primer stick

[0252] [Tables10] PHASE MP INCI % A CASID HSA HYDROSTEARIC ACID 6.7 SPOLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) MB POLYAMIDE-8 4.5 AJK OD-2046 (20% MA*) OCTYLDODECANOL and DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE and DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE 8.9 B EMOGREEN L19 C15-19 ALKANE qsplO 0 C SUNSPHERE H-33 SILICA 10 GRANPOWDER BBP- 700-LP SACCHAROMYCES FERMENT (and) LAUROYL LYSINE 5 EMOGREEN L19 MB C15-19 ALKANE 12.5

[0253] MA*= active ingredient

[0254] The composition is prepared according to the protocol described in the previous example.

[0255] Applied to the skin, the primer allows you to obtain a film with immediate mattifying and blurring effects.

[0256] 5.5 Tinted primer stick

[0257] [Tableauxll] PHAS E MP INCI % A CASID HSA HYDROSTEARIC ACID 6.7 SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) MB POLYAMIDE-8 4.5 AJK OD-2046 (20% MA*) OCTYLDODECANOL and DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE and DIBUTYL ETHYL- HEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE 8.9 B EMOGREEN L19 C15-19 ALKANE QsplOO C SUNSPHERE H-33 SILICA 17,6 GRANPOWDER BBP- 700-LP SACCHAROMYCES FERMENT (and) LAUROYL LYSINE 4,4 EMOGREEN L19 MB C15-19 ALKANE 12.5 D WHITE-B1 TR VAI MB TITANIUM DIOXIDE CI 77891 0.81 C 339001 SUN PURO YEL. I.O. TR VAI MB C 338021 SUN PURO RED IRON OX TR VAI MB C 337001 SUN PURO BL I.O. TR VAI MB IRON OXIDES CI 77492 0.21 APPLECARE PDS-300 MB POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (and) ISOSTEARIC ACID (and) LECITHIN (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLY-RICINOLEATE 0.02 CITHROL PG3PR-LQ POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICIN OLEATE 0.013 EMOGREEN L19 MB C15-19 ALKANE 0.16

[0258] MA*= matière active

[0259] La composition est préparée selon le protocole suivant :

[0260] Phases A and B are melted in an oil bath at a temperature of approximately 110°C. under agitation with the deflocculating paddle. The fillers are pre-dispersed in the alkane, then phase C is added to phases A and B with stirring. The pigment phase, previously prepared by dispersing the pigments in the alkane oil in the three-cylinder, is added to phases A, B and C.

[0261] Applied to the skin, the primer allows you to obtain a skin-perfecting film (camouflage of imperfections, pores and fine lines) immediately.

[0262] 5.6 Lipstick

[0263] [Tablesl2] Phase Description INCI Name % A SUNFLOWER WAX (KOSTER) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX 5.6 A CERAUBA CERA CARNAUBA 1.8 A CERABEIL CERA ALBA 0.8 A TINOGARD TT PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DLT-BUTYL HY- DROXYHYDROCINNAMAT E 0.07 B PHASE PIGMENTARY PIGMENTS, HYDROGENATED POLYDECENE 37.0 B DEKANEX 2006 FG HYDROGENATED POLYDECENE 6.0 C CASID HSA HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID STEARIC ACID 2.6 C SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) MB POLYAMIDE-8 1.7 C AJK-OD2046 MB (20% MA*) OCTYLDODECANOL DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE 3.4 C EMOGREEN L19 C15-19 ALKANE qsplOO DI SUNSPHERE H-33 SILICA 7.5 D2 GRANPOWDER BBP- 700-LP SACCHAROMYCES FERMENT LAUROYL LYSINE 1.9 D3 EMOGREEN L19 C15-19 ALKANE 5.3 E CTE PARFUME PARFUM 0.35 E DEKANEX 2006 FG HYDROGENATED POLYDECENE 5.88

[0264] MA*= active ingredient

[0265] The composition is prepared according to the following protocol:

[0266] Heat phase A in a water bath to T95°C with stirring AB phase transition to Turrax for 1 minute at 10,000 rpm In parallel, prepare phases C and D Heat C in an oil bath at 110°C until the gelling agents have completely melted,

[0267] Add Dl, then D2 and finally D3 add phase E.

[0268] Applied to the lips, the lipstick provides an immediate mattifying and blurring effect.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a gelled oily combination formed of at least: i. A non-volatile oil of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type, characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C, ii. An absorbent filler having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g, and iii. An organic lipophilic gelling agent.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the non-volatile oil(s) of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type are chosen from non-volatile alkanes and non-volatile mixtures of C8-C30 alkanes, preferably non-volatile alkanes and non-volatile mixtures of C10-C25 alkanes, more preferably C15-C19 alkanes and mixtures of alkanes, and hydrogenated polyisobutenes.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the filler(s) having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120 ml / 100 g and less than or equal to 400 ml / 100 g (ii) are chosen from silica powders, amorphous silica microspheres, silica micro-beads, silicates and their mixtures, preferably silica powders.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it further comprises one or more additional fillers, chosen in particular from silica powders treated with lauroyl lysine, lauroyl lysine powder fermented by sac-charomyces, cellulose powders, cellulose beads, starch powders, boron nitride powders, calcium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from silica and amino acid powders, lauroyl lysine powder fermented by sac-charomyces, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) (iii) are chosen from the group consisting of polycondensates of polyamide type, amides of L-glutamic acid, hydroxys- tearic, and their mixtures.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises at least two distinct organic lipophilic gelling agents, polymeric or not, chosen from polyamide-type polycondensates, L-glutamic acid amides, hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof, in particular at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from polyamide-type polycondensates, L-glutamic acid amides and mixtures thereof and at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from hydroxystearic acid, and preferably at least one polyamide-type polycondensate, an L-glutamic acid amide and hydroxystearic acid gelling agent.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is an anhydrous composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is a fluid composition or a solid composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% of silicone compound, preferably less than 2% by weight, better still less than 1% by weight, or even is free of silicone compound, in particular less than 5% by weight of silicone elastomer, preferably less than 2% by weight, better still less than 1% by weight, or even is free of silicone elastomer.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% by weight of volatile oils, preferably less than 3% by weight, better still is free of volatile oils.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises: i. 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50 to 70% by weight of non-volatile oils of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C relative to the total weight of the composition ii. 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 30% by weight of filler(s) having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g relative to the total weight of the composition, iii. 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight of organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, and iv. possibly in addition coloring matters, in particular pigments.

12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that: i. the non-volatile oils are C15-C19 alkanes, ii. the fillers having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120 ml / 100 g and less than or equal to 400 ml / 100 g are chosen from silica powders, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads, silicates and mixtures thereof, preferably silica powders, optionally combined with additional fillers chosen from silica powders treated with lauroyl lysine or a lauroyl lysine powder fermented by Saccharomyces, iii. the organic lipophilic gelling agents are selected from the group consisting of polyamide-type polycondensates, L-glutamic acid amides, hydroxy stearic acid, and mixtures thereof, and iv. the coloring matters are pigments, in particular iron oxides.

13. Gelled oily association formed from at least: i. 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50-70% by weight of non-volatile oil(s) of alkane or hydrogenated polyisobutene type characterized by a flash point greater than or equal to 130°C as defined in claims 1 or 2, relative to the total weight of the association, ii. 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20-30% by weight of filler(s) having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 120mL / 100g and less than or equal to 400mL / 100g as defined in claims 1 and 3, relative to the total weight of the combination, and iii. 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10-25% by weight of organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) as defined in claims 1, 5 and 6, relative to the total weight of the association.

14. A process for preparing a gelled oily combination as defined in claim 13, comprising the steps of: a. mixing the filler(s) (ii) with the non-volatile oil(s) (i) until the fillers are saturated, then b. heating the mixture to a temperature preferably between 85 and 110°C, then adding the organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) (iii) until a homogeneous gel is obtained.

15. Process for preparing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least a first step of preparing a gelled oily association according to claim 14.

16. Cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.