Solid care and / or makeup composition comprising zinc sulfide particles
A solid cosmetic composition using zinc sulfide particles with encapsulation or surface treatment, combined with oils and fatty phase structuring agents, addresses the need for alternatives to titanium dioxide by providing effective coverage and maintaining mechanical and sensorial properties.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023014670
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-20
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing solid anhydrous skin and lip care/makeup products rely heavily on titanium dioxide for coverage, but there is a growing need for alternative solutions that maintain coverage, mechanical, and sensorial properties.
A solid cosmetic composition comprising zinc sulfide particles, preferably encapsulated and/or surface-treated with hydrophilic and/or lipophilic treatment agents, combined with one or more oils and fatty phase structuring agents, providing good covering and mechanical properties.
The composition achieves equivalent or superior covering power to titanium dioxide with a higher concentration of zinc sulfide particles, while maintaining good mechanical and sensorial properties, thus offering a viable alternative to titanium dioxide-based products.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Solid care and / or makeup composition comprising zinc sulfide particles FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to solid cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Solid anhydrous skin or lip care and / or makeup products are sought after by consumers for their coverage and hold properties.
[0003] Coverage is generally provided by white pigments and / or fillers, and titanium dioxide is generally used, which has a high opacifying and covering power. However, there is an increasing search for alternative solutions to titanium dioxide and the Applicant has observed that zinc sulfide particles make it possible to obtain an anhydrous solid composition having good covering properties, good mechanical properties of the stick and good application and sensorial properties. Statement of the invention
[0004] A first aspect of the invention is therefore a solid cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. Zinc sulfide particles, preferably encapsulated and / or surface-treated with a hydrophilic and / or lipophilic treatment agent, ii. One or more oils, and iii. One or more fatty phase structuring agents.
[0005] By "cosmetic composition" is meant any composition for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.
[0006] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.
[0007] By "keratin materials" according to the invention, we mean the skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly the human skin and / or lips. In particular, this will be the skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and the lips. The keratin materials in the context of the invention are healthy, that is to say not presenting any disorders or disorders that would be related to a pathological state (“unhealthy” subjects, suffering from a pathology). We will speak indifferently of healthy skin and / or lips or skin and / or lips in the rest of the description.
[0008] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.
[0009] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a solid cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. Zinc sulfide particles, preferably encapsulated and / or surface-treated with a hydrophilic and / or lipophilic treatment agent, ii. One or more oils, and iii. One or more fatty phase structuring agents.
[0011] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid composition" means a composition which does not flow under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called liquid compositions.
[0012] The composition may in particular be in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a cup.
[0013] The hardness of the compositions of the invention, in particular the sticks, can be measured at 20°C by the so-called "butter wire cutting" method, which consists of transversely cutting a stick of product with a diameter of between 10 and 12 mm, preferably cylindrical in revolution, using a rigid metal wire with a diameter of 250 μm, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram force (Gf) and can be measured using a texturometer of the Texturometer TAXT Plus type. For a stick of a composition intended to be applied to the lips, the minimum value obtained is greater than 30 Gf.
[0014] A person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the method for shaping the stick from the composition of the invention according to its hardness. In particular when the hardness is less than 100Gf, shaping the stick by a so-called "back-fill" method, consisting of pouring and cooling the composition directly in the mechanism of the pack, will be preferred over shaping consisting of pouring and cooling the composition in a mold and then inserting the stick into the mechanism.
[0015] Preferably, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.
[0016] By "anhydrous composition" is meant in particular that water is not deliberately added to the composition of the invention but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is free of water.
[0017] The composition of the invention comprises zinc sulfide particles. Zinc sulfide (ZnS) particles
[0018] Zinc sulfide particles are in the form of a powder, generally white in color, and are partially insoluble in water.
[0019] The zinc sulfide (ZnS) particles used according to the invention are distinct from interference pigments comprising a support which is not ZnS and at least one layer of ZnS on the surface.
[0020] The average size of the zinc sulfide particles used according to the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 10 pm (micrometers), in particular from 0.1 to 5 pm, or even from 0.1 to 2 pm.
[0021] The particle size can be measured according to a laser diffraction distribution method with a device of the Malvem Mastersizer type, in particular by measuring the D
[50] value, which represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles represents.
[0022] Advantageously, the powder contains at least 50% by number of particles having a diameter of 0.1 pm by observation under a scanning electron microscope (SEM)
[0023] The powder is advantageously made up of zinc sulfide particles of essentially spherical or ovoid shape.
[0024] We can cite in particular zinc sulfides marketed by ZEHAO, VENATOR, and TAIZHOU ATS.
[0025] The zinc sulfide particles used according to the invention are preferably encapsulated and / or surface-treated with a treatment agent, in particular with a hydrophilic treatment agent, for example silica and / or a lipophilic treatment agent, such as N-acylated amino acids or their salts, dextrin esters, silicone agents, metallic soaps, lecithin and its derivatives, waxes, fatty esters, and phospholipids. According to a particular embodiment, the zinc sulfide particles are treated at least with silica.
[0026] These treatments make it possible to make the zinc sulfide particles inert and / or allow better dispersion of the treated particles in the fatty phase of the composition of the invention. It also aims to protect the zinc sulfide particle from any contact with a solvent medium at the time of manufacture of the composition but also at the time of application of the composition to the skin.
[0027] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the zinc sulfide particles are treated with silica and / or a lipophilic treatment agent.
[0028] The treatment with silica is carried out by any method known to those skilled in the art, and advantageously by an anhydrous method.
[0029] According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the zinc sulfide particles are treated successively with silica, then a lipophilic treatment agent.
[0030] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the zinc sulfide particles are not treated and they have the INCI name: ZINC SULFIDE.
[0031] According to another particular embodiment, the zinc sulfide particles are treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. As “lipophilic treatment agent” which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of N-acylated amino acids or their salts, dextrin esters, silicone agents, metallic soaps, lecithin and its derivatives, waxes, fatty esters, and phospholipids.
[0032] The Applicant carried out several upstream tests to determine the covering power of zinc sulfide particles, compared to titanium dioxide, in order to be able to replace titanium dioxide in formulas, without impacting the desired covering effect. These results showed that, for an equivalent covering power, in an anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, a quantity of zinc sulfide particles 1.1 to 2 times greater than the quantity of titanium dioxide was required for an equivalent covering result.
[0033] According to a particular embodiment, the content of zinc sulfide particles in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.05% to 30% by weight of zinc sulfide, in particular from 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight of zinc sulfide, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight of zinc sulfide relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0034] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 3% of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight, in particular less than 1%, or even is free of titanium dioxide.
[0035] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is free of titanium dioxide.
[0036] The fatty phase of the composition of the invention generally comprises one or more oils. Oils
[0037] By "oil" is meant a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. The oils can be chosen from hydro- carbonaceous, silicone oils and their mixtures.
[0038] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant according to the invention an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms, in particular being neither silicone nor fluorinated.
[0039] According to the invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0040] As silicone oils, mention may in particular be made of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, C2-24- pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain.
[0041] Preferably, hydrocarbon oils will be used.
[0042] In particular, the hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, C10-C26, ester oils, oils of vegetable origin, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the composition will comprise one or more hydrocarbon oils chosen from ester oils, oils of vegetable origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] As oils of plant origin, we can cite in particular: sunflower oil, jojoba oil, canola oil, castor oil and their mixtures.
[0044] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one ester oil.
[0045] Among the ester oils, we can notably cite:
[0046] - esters of fatty alcohols and C8-C18 fatty acids, in particular coco-caprylate caprate which is an ester of naturally occurring fatty alcohol (e.g. coconut), caprylic acid and capric acid,
[0047] - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,
[0048] - synthetic esters such as oils of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri re has the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri+R2 is >16, such as for example isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate;
[0049] - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;
[0050] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl 10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diisononanoate diethylene glycol;
[0051] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;
[0052] - esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids;
[0053] - oligomeric polyesters of dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; we can cite in particular dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (e.g. Lusplan™); these polyesters also play the role of structuring agent for oils;
[0054] - esters of amino acid derivatives; we can cite in particular Di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g. Eldew®);
[0055] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of carbo- carboxylic acid(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;
[0056] - and their mixtures.
[0057] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one ester oil, preferably chosen from hydroxylated esters having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70, oligomeric polyesters of dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; esters of amino acid derivatives; and mixtures thereof and advantageously in addition at least one vegetable oil, chosen from sunflower oil, canola oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0058] The oil content can range from 10 to 90%, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0059] The fatty phase of the composition further comprises one or more fatty phase structuring agents. Fatty phase structuring agents
[0060] By "fatty phase structuring agent" or "fatty phase structuring agents" is meant a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, fatty phase gelling agents and pasty fatty substances, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0061] These fatty phase structuring agents can represent from 1 to 30%, and preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0062] Waxes
[0063] The term "wax" designates, in the context of this description, a fatty body which is solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point generally between 30 and 160°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C, as measured by DSC.
[0064] Mention may in particular be made of microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of animal or vegetable origin such as beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, sunflower wax, rice wax, jojoba wax, olive wax and mixtures thereof, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis, and mixtures thereof.
[0065] Vegetable waxes such as sunflower wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, sunflower wax, rice wax, jojoba wax, olive wax and mixtures thereof will preferably be used. These waxes generally have melting points above 60°C, preferably ranging from 60°C to 80°C, and in particular from 65°C to 75°C.
[0066] The total content of wax(es) in the composition of the invention may range from 3% to 25%, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0067] Lipophilic gelling agents
[0068] By "fatty phase gelling agents" or "lipophilic gelling agents" is meant compounds that modify the rheology of the fatty phase by forming a three-dimensional network. These gelling agents may be mineral gelling agents or organic gelling agents. As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of clays (in particular bentonites and hectorites) modified hydrophobically, in particular by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; hydrophobically modified pyrogenic silicas; dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate and myristate; polyamides, ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides or polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides or ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), preferably an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amides);glycerol esters of fatty acids, in particular C18-C24, hydroxystearic acid, sorbitan oleate, glutamides, associative polymers derived from castor oil, isophorone diisocyanate-urethane polymer derived from castor oil; olefin / styrene copolymers, poly(alkyl acrylates); cellulose derivatives and mixtures containing them; and mixtures thereof. Certain hydrogenated vegetable oils, optionally modified with isostearic acid, in particular hydrogenated rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, coconut and castor oils, may also be considered as fatty phase gelling agents.
[0069] According to a particular embodiment, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is also used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two Cl4-C20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls. Mention may in particular be made of a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the reference BENTONE GEL from Elementis with the INCI name Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate.
[0070] When the composition comprises one or more gelling agent(s), the total content of lipophilic gelling agent(s) may range from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0071] Pasty fatty body
[0072] Finally, the pasty fatty substances that can be used as fatty phase structuring agents are defined as fatty substances with a reversible liquid / solid state change, exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0073] Mention may in particular be made of fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, esters of polyol(s) and of dimer diacid of fatty acid, or of one of its esters, in particular esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; hydrogenated castor oil esters; oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, jojoba esters, olive unsaponifiables, shea unsaponifiables; vegetable butters such as murumuru butter, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, cupuaçu butter; and mixtures thereof.
[0074] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a dimer dilinoleate ester, in particular chosen from the group consisting of: - polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer, - bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate, - dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and - hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate.
[0075] The content of pasty fatty substances in the composition of the invention can range from 0 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients
[0076] The composition of the invention may further comprise an ingredient chosen from fillers, coloring materials and their mixtures. The ZnS particles used according to the invention playing the role of white pigment but also of filler, we will also speak of additional fillers and additional coloring materials, distinct from the aforementioned ZnS particles.
[0077] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one additional filler, distinct from the zinc sulfide particles.
[0078] Additional charges
[0079] The additional fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to confer a mattifying and / or blurring effect.
[0080] For the purposes of the invention, by "fillers" is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.The fillers are chosen in particular from micas, of natural or synthetic origin; talc; bismuth oxychloride; silica; kaolin; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone powders; cellulose powders; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice, cotton starches, crosslinked or not; hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof.
[0081] The fillers may or may not be surface-treated, in particular with a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent; such as those described previously for zinc sulfide particles.
[0082] According to a particular embodiment, the charge is not surface treated.
[0083] According to another particular embodiment, the filler is surface-treated with a lipophilic agent such as those described previously.
[0084] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more additional coloring materials (distinct from the zinc sulfide particles). Additional coloring materials
[0085] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. The coloring materials are conventionally chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils and in the aqueous phase) and dyes (soluble in oils or in the aqueous phase). In particular, the colored optical effect is linked to the presence of colored particles (non-white) in the composition.
[0086] The coloring materials can be of mineral, synthetic or natural origin.
[0087] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring materials are of mineral or synthetic origin.
[0088] Said coloring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.
[0089] A coloring material may be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials with an optical effect, and their mixtures, soluble or insoluble in the fatty or oily phase of the invention.
[0090] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material(s) are in particular chosen from mineral pigments other than zinc sulfides, organic dyes and pigments, composite pigments, nacres, dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] By "pigments" is meant white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Mention may be made of mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials). As additional 'white' pigments distinct from the zinc sulfide particles, mention may be made in particular of zinc oxide (ZnO) particles.
[0092] According to a particular embodiment, the composition may comprise zinc sulfide particles and zinc oxide particles.
[0093] Among the “mineral pigments” distinct from zinc sulfide, mention may be made of iron oxides, in particular black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide, and ferric blue. As indicated previously, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises less than 3% of titanium dioxide by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1%, or even is free of titanium dioxide.
[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise 'non-white' colored pigments, chosen from iron oxides, organic pigments, lakes and their mixtures.
[0095] Preferably, the composition will comprise one or more iron oxides.
[0096] Among the "organic dyes and pigments (e.g. lakes)", we can cite, for example, Blue 1, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Yellow 10, Yellow 11, Red 4, Red 6, Red 7, Red 9, Red 19, Red 13, Red 17, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 30 and Red 33, Red 34, Red 36, Red 40, Green 3, Orange 4, Violet 2, carmine, Green 5, Orange 5, Orange 10, Green 6, Sudan red, Sudan brown, Orange 5, and quinoline yellow, their salts, such as a sodium or barium salt, or even lakes comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, for example those having the name Blue 1 lake (CI 42090); Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140); Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11 Lake, Red 6 lake (15850); Red 7 lake (CI 15850); Red 21 lake (CI 45380);Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28 lake (CI 45410), Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33 lake (CI 15880), Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40 Lake (CI16035), and / or their sodium or barium salts, in particular Red 6 Na Sait Lake, Red 6 Ba Sait Lake, and mixtures thereof. ;
[0097] “Lakes” are organic pigments comprising at least one organic dye precipitated on an inert support (otherwise called “base”). In particular, use will be made of lakes comprising a base chosen from alumina (Al) bases, barium sulfate (Ba), or calcium rosinate (Ca). For example, Red 28 Al lake, is a lake comprising an alumina base on which the Red 28 dye is precipitated.
[0098] According to a more particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one organic colorant or pigment (e.g.: lake) chosen from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and their mixtures; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and their mixtures; more preferably Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and their mixtures.
[0099] By "pearls", we can cite in particular colored pearlescent pigments, such as mica with iron oxides and with or without TiO2, mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. We can cite the ranges of commercial reference pearlescent pigments Reflecks®, Ronastar®, Timiron® and Syncristal®. The pearlescent pigments can also have a base of silica, alumina, alumina hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicate (e.g.: calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or cellulose or cellulose derivatives).
[0100] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more additional coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes or pigments, nacres, and mixtures thereof.
[0101] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises an additional coloring material chosen from the group consisting of: i. The organic dyes and pigments chosen from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 lake, Red 4, Red 4 lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), Red 30, Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 lake (CI 15880), Red 34, Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, carmine, and / or their salts, in particular Sodium or Barium, such as Red 6 Na Sait Lake, Red 6 Ba Sait Lake, and mixtures thereof; ii. Composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic substrate, in particular a silica, a borosilicate or an alumina, in which at least one of the aforementioned organic dyes or pigments is embedded or encapsulated, and mixtures thereof; iii. Pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, coated with at least one of the aforementioned organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising a synthetic mica coated with an organic dye or pigment chosen from Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), carmine, and mixtures thereof; iv. and their mixtures;
[0102] more preferably organic dyes or pigments chosen from Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 lake (CI 45410), or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (CI 45410), or a nacre comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and mixtures thereof.
[0103] In particular, the coloring matter(s) are present in the composition in a total content (including the content of zinc sulfide particles) ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 30% by weight, or even 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0104] For a care composition, the total content of coloring materials (including the content of zinc sulfide particles) will generally range from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0105] For a makeup composition, the total content of coloring materials (including the content of zinc sulfide particles) will generally range from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 8 to 30%, or even from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: - Zinc sulfide particles, - Hydrocarbon oils, - Fatty phase structuring agents, preferably at least waxes and possibly lipophilic gelling agents and / or pasty fatty substances, - Optionally one or more coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, pearlescent agents, and mixtures thereof,
[0107] and characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or even is free of titanium dioxide.
[0108] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: - Zinc sulfide particles, in particular in a content of 0.05 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Hydrocarbon oils, - One or more waxes in a total content ranging from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - One or more lipophilic gelling agents and / or one or more pasty fatty substances, - One or more coloring substances chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, pearlescent agents, and mixtures thereof,
[0109] and characterized in that it is free from titanium dioxide. GALENIC
[0110] The composition of the invention is a care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular a composition for the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the lips.
[0111] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup.
[0112] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, it will be a lip stick or a composition in a pot or cup for the lips.
[0113] According to another particular embodiment, it will be a liner pencil.
[0114] According to another particular mode, it will be a stick or a pencil or a com position in a pot or cup, applicable with the finger or brush, for the eyebrows (e.g.: eyebrow pencil).
[0115] According to another embodiment, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable with the finger, sponge or brush, for the eyelids (e.g.: eye shadow).
[0116] According to another embodiment, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable with the finger, sponge or brush, for the skin of the face, in particular certain areas (e.g.: complexion corrector or concealer).
[0117] Thus, the composition of the invention is in particular in the form of a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eye shadow or eyeshadow, a blush or cheek shadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip stick. COSMETIC PROCESS
[0118] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials comprising the application, to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows, or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to the invention.
[0119] The compositions of the invention are as defined above.
[0120] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention applied to the materials
[0121]
[0122]
[0123]
[0124]
[0125]
[0126]
[0127] keratin includes: - Zinc sulfide particles, - Hydrocarbon oils, - Fatty phase structuring agents, in particular at least waxes and possibly lipophilic gelling agents and / or pasty fatty substances, - Optionally one or more coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, pearlescent agents, and mixtures thereof, and characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or even is free of titanium dioxide. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention applied to keratin materials comprises: - Zinc sulfide particles, in particular in a content of 0.05 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Hydrocarbon oils, - One or more waxes in a total content ranging from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - One or more lipophilic gelling agents and / or pasty fatty substances, - One or more coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of: iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, nacres, and their mixtures, and characterized in that it is free from titanium dioxide. Preferably, the composition applied to the skin or lips is in the form of a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eye shadow or eyeshadow, or a concealer or corrector, preferably a lip stick. The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The % are expressed as % by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES Example 1: Formulations The following examples are illustrative and non-limiting examples of the invention, prepared according to methods well known to the cosmetic formulator. 1.1 Anhydrous lip balm
[0128] [Tableauxl] Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE Qsp 100 VEGETABLE OILS (sunflower and canola) Oils 10.0 VEGETABLE WAXES (sunflower and rice) Structuring agent 11.0 BEESWAX Structuring agent 2.0 DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE (LUSPLAN) Structuring agent 1.0 BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE (PLANDOOL-G) Structuring agent 2.3 BENTONE GEL (1% disteardimonium hectorite in octyl-dodecanol) Structuring agent 10.0 ZINC SULFIDE PARTICLES (0.5pm) 2.5 PHYTOSTERYL / OCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE (ELDEW PS-203) Emollient 7.0 CALCIUM CARBONATE 2.0 LAKES 6.0 PEARLS 0.5
[0129] The lip stick has the expected properties in terms of structure and sensoriality upon application. Applied to the lips, the lipstick provides good coverage and color properties with a homogeneous deposit.
[0130] 1.2 Anhydrous lipstick for the lips
[0131] [Tables2] INGREDIENTS % SILICA 5.0 POLYETHYLENE WAX 5.5 CANDELILLA WAX 3.0 SHEA BUTTER 1.5 IRON OXIDE (red) 5.0 ORGANIC PIGMENTS (LAKES) 2.0 ZINC SULFIDE PARTICLES (0.5pm) TREATED WITH SILICA 1.1 HYDROGENATED POLYDECENE QSP100
[0132] The lipstick has the expected properties in terms of structure and sensoriality upon application. Applied to the lips, the lipstick provides good coverage and color properties with a homogeneous deposit.
Claims
Claims
1. Solid cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. Zinc sulfide particles, preferably encapsulated and / or surface-treated with a hydrophilic and / or lipophilic treatment agent, ii. One or more oils, and iii. One or more fatty phase structuring agents.
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is an anhydrous composition.
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it further comprises one or more coloring materials, in particular chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, dyes, and mixtures thereof.
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fatty phase structuring agent(s) are chosen from the group consisting of waxes, lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises at least one or more waxes, in particular waxes of plant origin, in a total content ranging in particular from 3 to 25%, in particular from 4 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the oil(s) are hydrocarbon oils chosen from ester oils, oils of plant origin and their mixtures.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% by weight, or even is free of titanium dioxide.
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the content of zinc sulfide particles ranges from 0.05 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup.
10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 9, characterized in that it is a lip balm, a lip stick, an eyebrow pencil, an eye shadow or eyeshadow, a blush or cheek shadow, a foundation stick, a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip stick.
11. Cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Cosmetic composition
EP1723988A1
Lipsticks having natural oil, fatty alcohol wax and filler particles
US20230000729A1
Wax base makeup composition
US4534961A
Solid anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials
WO2021081876A1