STABLE COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i) an alkylated, in particular ethylated, ascorbic acid, preferably the compound with INCI name 3 O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ii) a gelling system comprising at least one acrylate gelling agent, in particular a homopolymer of polyacrylic acid (carbomer), Sclerotium rolfssii gum (INCI name: Sclerotium gum) and xanthan gum, iii) ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and iv) an antioxidant compound.

Description

Title of the invention: STABLE COSMETIC COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The field of the invention relates to skin care compositions, and in particular to skin lightening and anti-blemish compositions. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The color of human skin depends on various factors, including age, gender, and ethnic origin of individuals. This skin color is mainly related to the mechanism of melanogenesis and the concentration of melanin produced by each person's melanocytes.

[0003] Melanogenesis can be stimulated by various endogenous (e.g. hormones, etc.) and / or exogenous (e.g. UV rays, etc.) factors, which can lead to the appearance of spots over time. Spots appear in particular on the skin of the body, and in particular on the skin of the face, décolleté and / or hands.

[0004] For aesthetic reasons, we seek to reduce the visibility of spots and / or prevent their appearance, for more unified, more luminous skin, with more radiance and an even complexion.

[0005] Lightening and / or anti-blemish compositions are already known comprising active ingredients acting on melanogenesis such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid) or its derivatives and / or plant extracts.

[0006] In particular, there are compositions having good lightening effectiveness, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, which are particularly appreciated for their lightness and freshness.

[0007] The main disadvantage of these lightening compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions is that they are difficult to stabilize. Indeed, they have an acidic pH due to the presence of lightening active ingredients such as vitamin C derivatives. However, a low pH tends to destabilize oil-in-water emulsions over time.

[0008] The Applicant has developed a new oil-in-water emulsion at acidic pH comprising an alkylated derivative of vitamin C, which exhibits good stability over time, and in which the ascorbic acid derivative is also stable due to the presence of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA).

[0009] This emulsion also has an adequate viscosity and a satisfactory visual and tactile appearance, thanks to the use of a particular gelling system combining an acrylate gelling agent, Sclerotium rolfssii gum (INCI name: Sclerotium gum), and xanthan gum. Statement of the invention

[0010] A first aspect of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i) an alkylated, in particular ethylated, ascorbic acid, preferably the compound with INCI name 3 O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ii) a gelling system comprising at least one acrylate gelling agent, in particular a polyacrylic acid homopolymer (carbomer), Sclerotium rolfssii gum (INCI name: Sclerotium gum) and xanthan gum, iii) ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and iv) an antioxidant compound.

[0011] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic skin care process intended in particular to lighten the skin and / or reduce spots, comprising the application to the skin of at least one layer of composition as defined according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0012] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i) an alkylated, in particular ethylated, ascorbic acid, preferably the compound with INCI name 3 O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ii) a gelling system comprising at least one acrylate gelling agent, in particular a polyacrylic acid homopolymer (carbomer), Sclerotium rolfssii gum (INCI name: Sclerotium gum) and xanthan gum, iii) ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and iv) an antioxidant compound. General characteristics of the composition

[0013] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises active ingredients distributed in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0014] By "physiologically acceptable medium", it is meant according to the invention that the medium is compatible with human keratin materials, and has a pleasant appearance (touch, color and / or odor) without generating discomfort when applied to said keratin materials.

[0015] The oil-in-water emulsion form is well known to those skilled in the art. It comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a discontinuous oily phase, in the form of droplets suspended in the aqueous phase.

[0016] The oily phase will generally comprise an oil or a mixture of oils miscible with each other. For the purposes of the invention, the term “oil” means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0017] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0018] According to the invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). In particular, mention may be made of: - lower C1-C5 mono-alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures; - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols; - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol (also known as glycerin), polyglycerols (e.g. polyglycerin-3), polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, - and their mixtures.

[0019] The aqueous phase also comprises hydrophilic gelling agents (described in more detail below), preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0020] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition has an acid pH less than or equal to 5, preferably ranging from 4 to 5, in particular ranging from 4.0 to 4.4.

[0021] The pH of a composition is measured according to conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art, in particular using pH paper strips which make it possible to measure pH values ​​from 0 to 14 with an accuracy of 0.5, or preferably using an electronic pH meter for greater precision.

[0022] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition has a viscosity of between 6400 and 7800 centipoises at 25°C.

[0023] More precisely, the viscosity may be between 6800 and 7800 centipoise, or between 7500 and 7700 centipoise.

[0024] The person skilled in the art is familiar with the concept of viscosity, which designates a physical property making it possible to characterize a fluid according to its flow. We are talking here about dynamic viscosity which, mathematically, is equal to the shear stress divided by the shear rate. The unit of measurement for dynamic viscosity is the centiPoise (cP).

[0025] The viscosity of the composition may be measured according to any method known to those skilled in the art, and in particular as presented in the examples. (i) Alkyl ascorbic acid

[0026] The composition of the invention comprises an alkylated ascorbic acid, which is used here as a skin lightening and / or anti-blemish agent.

[0027] Ascorbic acid, or oxo-3-gulofuranolactone acid, is an organic acid with antioxidant and lightening properties. Its alkylated forms are derivatives whose stability is increased, without modification of its properties. Among the alkyls which can be grafted to the ascorbic acid molecule, mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and pentyl groups.

[0028] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises an ethylated ascorbic acid, that is to say comprising an ethyl group grafted to the ascorbic acid molecule.

[0029] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises the compound with the INCI name 3 O-ethyl ascorbic acid. This compound corresponds to the formula C8Hi2O6 and has the CAS number 86404-04-8. It is also known under the chemical name (27?)-2-[(15 )-l,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3-ethoxy-4-hydroxy-2 / / -furan-5-one according to the IUP AC standard.

[0030] In the composition according to the invention, the content of alkylated ascorbic acid (i), in particular ethylated, and preferably with the INCI name 3 O-ethyl ascorbic acid, will generally range from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 4% by weight and preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (ii) Gelling system

[0031] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises a gelling system comprising at least three hydrophilic gelling agents: an acrylate gelling agent, Sclerotium rolfssii gum and xanthan gum.

[0032] The gelling system of the composition according to the invention must be compatible with a pH less than or equal to 5. By 'compatible with a pH less than or equal to 5', it is meant that the gelling system makes it possible to gel the composition (increase in its viscosity), whereas a gelling system which is not compatible with a pH less than or equal to 5 does not make it possible to gel the composition.

[0033] A simple measurement of the viscosity of the gel makes it possible to determine whether or not a gelling system is compatible at a pH less than or equal to 5. The person skilled in the art knows the means of measuring the viscosity of a composition. The examples present one of these means.

[0034] The gelling system of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acrylate gelling agent, Sclerotium rolfssii gum and xanthan gum. Acrylate gelling agent

[0035] By 'acrylate gelling agent' is meant, according to the invention, an acrylic polymeric gelling agent comprising an acrylate chain and which is compatible with an acid pH of less than 5.

[0036] By 'compatible with an acidic pH less than or equal to 5' is meant that the polymer chains acidify at acidic pH to form acrylic acids COOH.

[0037] According to a particular embodiment, the acrylate gelling agent is a homopolymer of polyacrylic acid (also referred to as PAA). Polyacrylic acid, of chemical formula -[CH 2CH(COOH)]„-, has the CAS number 9003-01-4.

[0038] A PAA homopolymer is obtained in particular by radical polymerization. Acrylic acid homopolymers are designated by the INCI name: CARBOMER. This is a so-called “superabsorbent” polymer.

[0039] These polymers are commercially available, in particular under the commercial reference Carbopol®; and also under the reference Pemulen® with the INCI name: ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER.

[0040] As a preferred acrylate gelling agent according to the invention, mention may be made of the product sold under the trade name Carbopol® Ultrez 30 polymer with INCI name: CARBOMER, marketed by the company LUBRIZOL.

[0041] The content of acrylate gelling agent in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.15 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.25 to 0.5%, preferably 0.3 to 0.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Sclerotium rolfssii gum (INCI name: Sclerotium gum) For the purposes of the invention, the term “gum” means a polysaccharide which hydrates in an aqueous medium to form a viscous solution or a dispersion.

[0043] Sclerotium rolfssii gum is a natural polysaccharide of microbiological origin, with the INCI name: SCLEROTIUM GUM, CAS number 39464-87-4. It is produced by the filamentous bacterium Sclerotium rolfssii, also known as Sclerotium rolfsii.

[0044] This eraser has the following functions: - it is an emulsion stabilizer, which promotes the emulsification process and improves the stability and shelf life of the emulsion; - it is a skin conditioning agent, a “natural moisturizer”, and - it also acts as a viscosity control agent for compositions.

[0045] Finally, patent FR3018192 teaches that this gum used in a cosmetic composition makes it possible to improve the activity of the cosmetic active ingredients present in said composition, in particular by increasing their skin penetration.

[0046] As Sclerotium rolfssii gum according to the invention, the following commercial product may be used: AMIGEL® GRANULE, marketed by the company Alban Muller. The content of Sclerotium rolfssii gum in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.05 to 3%, in particular from 0.1 to 1%, and in particular from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Xanthan gum

[0047] Xanthan gum is a natural gum derived from the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its CAS number is 11138-66-2. It is a branched polysaccharide with gelling properties and the characteristic of being stable in acidic environments.

[0048] As examples of xanthan gums which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of RHODICARE® XC distributed by the company Solvay, with the INCI name: xanthan gum.

[0049] The total content of xanthan gum in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.3%, preferably 0.1 to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] In the composition of the invention, the total content of gelling system (ii), comprising at least one acrylate gelling agent, Sclerotium rolfssii gum and xanthan gum, ranges from 0.05 to 3%, in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (iii) Stabilizing agent: EDTA

[0051] The composition according to the invention contains ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (abbreviated: EDTA).

[0052] This compound of formula Ci0Hi6N2O8 and CAS number 60-00-4 is a chelating agent comprising six basic sites capable of fixing cations, in particular metallic ones, which can affect the stability and / or appearance of cosmetic products.

[0053] In the composition of the invention, the EDTA (iv) content ranges from 0.005 to 2%, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, in particular from 0.08 to 0.4%, relative to the total weight of the composition. (iv) Antioxidant compound

[0054] The present invention also comprises at least one antioxidant compound, in addition to ethyl ascorbic acid.

[0055] For the purposes of the invention, the term "antioxidant" means a compound which slows down or prevents the oxidation of chemical substances which tend to oxidize on contact with oxygen.

[0056] The presence of an antioxidant compound in a cosmetic composition has two main functions: - protect the product formula from oxidation, and in particular from the rancidity of fatty substances of plant origin (in particular the oils in the aqueous phase of the emulsion), - help the skin fight against free radicals, factors of premature skin aging.

[0057] Antioxidant agents may be of plant or synthetic origin.

[0058] The person skilled in the art knows numerous antioxidant compounds which can be ad conditioned to cosmetic compositions, and in particular: retinol, tocopherol, carotenoids, plant extracts of coffee, tea, thyme, rosemary, and their mixtures.

[0059] According to a particular embodiment, the antioxidant compound present in the composition of the invention is sodium metabisulfite.

[0060] This synthetic antioxidant, with the INCI name: SODIUM METABISULFITE, has the CAS number 7681-57-4. In cosmetics, it is used for its functions as an antioxidant, preservative and reducing agent.

[0061] As a preferred antioxidant compound according to the invention, mention may be made of the product sold under the trade name Covastyle MBS distributed by SENSIENT BEAUTY.

[0062] In the composition of the invention, the content of antioxidant compound (iv) ranges from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other additional ingredients (optional)

[0063] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may further comprise at least one additional ingredient chosen from the group consisting of glycols, emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, fillers, active agents, in particular aqueous active agents, pH adjusters, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] As glycols, as described above (aqueous phase), mention may in particular be made of ethylene glycol, glycerol (also designated by the term glycerin), butylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyglycerin-3, penthylene glycol and their mixtures.

[0065] As emulsifiers, mention may be made in particular of the following INCI name ingredients: STEAREATH-21 and BEHENYL ALCOHOL ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE, as well as their mixture.

[0066] As fatty alcohols, mention may be made of stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, as well as their mixture.

[0067] The oily phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise in particular hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable origin, linear C9-C19 alkanes, in particular C15-C19, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, synthetic C10-C40 esters ('ester oils'), fatty alcohols C12-C26, higher fatty acids C12-C22, and mixtures thereof, preferably hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic C10-C40 esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] By "fillers" is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to confer a mattifying effect (we will also speak of 'mattifying powders' in the examples (illustrated). The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape: platelet, spherical or oblong.

[0069] The fillers are chosen in particular from synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone resin powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] By "active agents, particularly aqueous ones", is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any additive usually used in cosmetics and soluble in aqueous phases, such as moisturizing agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lifting agents, tightening agents, plumping agents, soothing agents, anti-pollution agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] For the purposes of the invention, the term "pH adjusters" means any compound capable of modifying the pH of a cosmetic composition, by increasing or decreasing it. It is recalled here that the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 4 and 5.

[0072] These additional ingredients may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0073] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise at least water, at least one glycol, at least one preservative, a carbomer, Sclerotium rolfssii gum, xanthan gum, at least one emulsifier, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one oil, sodium hydroxide, at least one matting powder, at least one pH adjuster, EDTA, ethyl ascorbic acid, at least one aqueous active agent, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, at least one antioxidant compound, at least one perfume and at least one alcohol.

[0074] A person skilled in the art will know how to adjust the nature and content of each ingredient according to the desired effect. Galenic

[0075] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0076] It may be a skin care composition, preferably for the skin of the face, décolleté and / or hands.

[0077] It may be in the form of a cream or serum for the skin, in particular a serum for the skin of the face.

[0078] In the case of a care product, it may be, for example, a day cream or serum, an anti-aging cream or serum, a moisturizing cream or serum. Preferably, it is an anti-aging serum for the face and / or neck. Cosmetic process

[0079] The invention also relates to a cosmetic skin care process intended in particular to lighten the skin and / or reduce spots, comprising the application to the skin of at least one layer of composition as defined according to the invention.

[0080] The compositions applied are in particular those described above.

[0081] According to a first particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: i) an alkylated, in particular ethylated, ascorbic acid, preferably the compound with INCI name 3 O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ii) a gelling system comprising at least one acrylate gelling agent, in particular a polyacrylic acid homopolymer (carbomer), Sclerotium rolfssii gum (INCI name: Sclerotium gum) and xanthan gum, (iii) ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), (iv) an antioxidant compound, in particular sodium metabisulfite, and (v) an oily phase comprising at least one emulsifier, at least one fatty alcohol and at least one oil.

[0082] According to a second particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: i) an alkylated, in particular ethylated, ascorbic acid, preferably the compound with INCI name 3 O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ii) a gelling system comprising at least one acrylate gelling agent, in particular a polyacrylic acid homopolymer (carbomer), Sclerotium rolfssii gum (INCI name: Sclerotium gum) and xanthan gum, (iii) ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), (iv) an antioxidant compound, in particular sodium metabisulfite, (v) an oily phase comprising at least one emulsifier, at least one fatty alcohol and at least one oil, and vi) at least one mattifying powder.

[0083] According to a third particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: i) an alkylated, in particular ethylated, ascorbic acid, preferably the compound with INCI name 3 O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ii) a gelling system comprising at least one acrylate gelling agent, in particular a polyacrylic acid homopolymer (carbomer), Sclerotium rolfssii gum (INCI name: Sclerotium gum) and xanthan gum, (iii) ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), iv) an antioxidant compound, in particular sodium metabisulfite, v) an oily phase comprising at least one emulsifier, at least one fatty alcohol and at least one oil, (vi) at least one mattifying powder, and (vii) at least one pH adjuster.

[0084] The skins for which the compositions of the invention are intended are healthy skins of healthy subjects, as opposed to pathological or damaged skins. These healthy subjects may have pigment spots on the skin of the body and / or face, in particular on the face, décolleté and / or hands. These may be young healthy subjects if the composition aims to prevent the appearance of spots (sun or old age), or older healthy subjects if the composition aims to reduce and / or correct the visibility of spots (already existing).

[0085] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The % are expressed as % by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0086] Example 1: Comparison of the formula according to the invention with comparative formulations

[0087] Several formulations were produced under the same experimental conditions.

[0088] These formulations were prepared according to the following procedure, under Rayneri: a) phase A is stirred at 2000 rpm for 30 minutes and heated to 85°C; its homogeneity and the absence of grains are checked; b) the ingredients of phase B are weighed and heated to 85°C; c) when the two phases are at the same temperature, phase A is emulsified in phase B while stirring at 2000 rpm for 5 minutes; d) mixture A + B is passed through the Thurax at 12,000 rpm for 2 minutes; e) the mixture is cooled to 70°C, phase C is added and homogenized with phases A and B; f) When the mixture reaches a temperature below 40°C, the other phases are added successively, ensuring good homogeneity between each additional phase; g) Stop stirring once the temperature of 30°C is reached.

[0089] Packaging in pill boxes is carried out at 30°C.

[0090] Formulations A to I are formulations for comparison with the formula according to the invention: - Does not contain Sclerotium rolfssi gum; - B does not contain carbomer type acrylate gelling agent; - It does not contain xanthan gum; - D does not contain EDTA; - E does not contain any antioxidant compound; - F and G contain, instead of EDTA, other chelating compounds: respectively tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and trisodium ethylenediamine di-succinate; - H contains, instead of xanthan gum, a carbomer (Pemulen EZ4U); -1 contains, instead of one or more carbomer(s), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose stearoxy ether.

[0091] These formulations all have a pH between 4 and 4.4.

[0092] The formulations are evaluated according to the following aspects: viscosity, stability of ethyl ascorbic acid, stability of the formula and visual and tactile appearance of the formula.

[0093] A) The viscosity is measured with a Rhéolab QC viscometer (Anton Paar) equipped with Rheoplus software using an ST24 vane spindle — 2D - 2V - 2V (rotation speed 100 rpm and measurement time 3 min).

[0094] Prior to measurement, the composition is placed in a 120 ml pot (Ref: 102171001, Kola Rond VT3 Ml20 Blanc Pharm) in an oven at 25°C for at least 12 hours. Once the mobile is immersed in the pot, the composition level must reach the neck of the pot.

[0095] We check that the mobile is well chosen by measuring the percentage of deviation of the measurements which are carried out every 6 seconds. The value of the viscosity of the composition is equal, according to this protocol, to the average of the last fifteen measurements carried out by the device during the measurement time indicated above.

[0096] B) The stability of ethyl ascorbic acid is measured by dosage using the external calibration method, from the surface of the standard and sample peaks.

[0097] The result is expressed in % and is calculated according to the following formula:

[0098] % Ethyl Ascorbic Acid = (Test Area / Standard Area) x (Standard PE / Test PE) x (Vol. Test / Standard Vol.) X 100

[0099] The sample containing ethyl ascorbic acid is solubilized in a solvent then filtered through a 0.45um GHP type filter then injected into HPLV chromatography at 260 nm.

[0100] The analysis is always carried out by comparison with a standard.

[0101] C) The stability of the formula is evaluated after incubation at 45°C for 3 months. A visual observation is carried out: the presence of water on the surface is a sign of a phase shift in the formulation, and therefore of a lack of stability. Furthermore, the lack of stability may correspond to a yellowing of the formula, which is white before incubation at 45°C.

[0102] The given notations are as follows:

[0103] For viscosity: KO: outside the norm between 6400 and 7800 cps at 25°C OK: between 6400 and 7800 cps at 25°C

[0104] Stability of Ethvl Ascorbic Acid (EAA) present at T0 in a content of 1%: KO: quantity of EAA measured at 6 months less than 0.9% (loss of more than 10% indicating instability) OK: quantity of EAA measured at 6 months greater than or equal to 0.9% (loss less than 10% indicating stability)

[0105] Stability of the formula: OK: Stable KO: Not stable J: significant yellowing

[0106] Visual and tactile appearance: OK: satisfactory KO grip, does not stay in the pot, too fluid, soft grip, bouncy grip, fluff formation: not satisfactory.

[0107] The results obtained are presented in Table 1 below.

[0108] [Tables] Phase A Composition according to the invention Compositions outside the invention, for comparison Ingredients (Description or INCI name / trade name in lower case) Weight in % AB c DEFGHI WATER 40-80 40-80 GLYCOLS GLYCERIN E, POLY-GLYCERIN E 3, PENTHYL ENE GLYCOL 1.0-15 1.0-15 PRESERVATIVES 0.1-2 0.1-2 (ü) SCLEROTI UM GUM Amigel granule (JSQI) 0.5 0 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (ü) CARBOME R Carbopol ultrez 30 polymer (EX-1142) 0.3 0.3 0 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0 (ü) CARBOME R Pemulen EZ4U 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.1 0 (ü) HY-DROXYPR OPYL ME-THYLCEL LULOSE STEAROX Y ETHER Sangelose 90L 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.1 5 (ü) XANTHAN GUM Rhodicare XC-Ouvrica reXC 0.1 0.1 0.1 0 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0 0.1 B EMULSIFIERS: STEAREA TH-21; BEHENYL ALCOHOL ARACHID YL ALCOHOL ARACHID YL GLUCOSIDE 0.5-5 0.5-5 FATTY ALCOHOL: STEARYL ALCOHOL, CETYL ALCOHOL 0.1-5 0.1-5 OILS 1.5-10 1.5 - 10 C SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.01 0.01 D MATTIFYING POWDERS 0.1-2 0.1-2 E PH ADJUSTERS 0.01 - 1 0.01 - 1 F (iü) DISODIUM EDTA Edeta BD 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0 0.2 0 0 0.2 0.2 TETRASO DIUM GLUTAMA TE DIACETAT E 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.5 0 0 0 TRISODIU M ETHY-LENEDIA MINE DI-SUCCINAT E 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.5 0 0 G (i) ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID QD 1 1 H AQUEOUS ACTIVE ACTIVE 1.5-15 1.5 - 15 I DIPOTASS IUM GLY-CYRRHIZI NATE 0.1 0.1 J (iv) SODIUM METABIS ULFITE Covastyle MBS 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0 0.0 2 0.0 2 0.02 0.0 2 K PERFUME 0.1- 1 0.1- 1 L ALCOHOL 0.1-6 0.1-6 RESULTS OBTAINED Viscosity / 7,600 cps KO KO OK OK OK OK OK KO KO Rhéolab ST24-2D at 25°C Stability of EAA after 6 months at 40°C OK OK OK OK KO OK KO KO OK OK Stability of the formula OK KO KO KO OK OK OK KO Visual and tactile appearance of the formula OK set KO, does not hold in the pot too fluid, soft set OK OK OK OK OK too fluid, set rebound fluff formation on application

[0109] Only the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain adequate viscosity, stability of ethyl ascorbic acid (EAA), a stable formula and a satisfactory visual and tactile appearance.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i) an alkylated, in particular ethylated, ascorbic acid, preferably the compound with INCI name 3 O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ii) a gelling system comprising at least one acrylate gelling agent, in particular a homopolymer of polyacrylic acid (carbomer), Sclerotium rolfssii gum (INCI name: Sclerotium gum), and xanthan gum, iii) ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and iv) an antioxidant compound.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it has an acid pH less than or equal to 5, preferably ranging from 4 to 5, in particular from 4.0 to 4.

4.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the antioxidant compound is sodium metabisulfite.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the viscosity of the composition is between 6400 and 7800 centipoise at 25°C.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the content of alkylated ascorbic acid (i), preferably ethylated, is from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 4% by weight and preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the content of Sclerotium rolfssii gum ranges from 0.05 to 3%, in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 0.8%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the total content of gelling system (ii), comprising at least one acrylate gelling agent, Sclerotium rolfssii gum and xanthan gum, ranges from 0.05 to 3%, in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the EDTA (iii) content ranges from 0.005 to 2%, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, in particular from 0.08 to 0.4%, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the content of antioxidant compound (iv) ranges from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional ingredient chosen from the group consisting of glycols, emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, fillers, active ingredients, pH adjusters, and mixtures thereof.

11. Cosmetic skin care process intended in particular to lighten the skin and / or reduce dark spots, comprising the application to the skin of at least one layer of composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.