Naturally sourced colored powders and uses

Abstract

The present invention relates to an insoluble colored powder comprising the combination of: (i) a natural or naturally occurring colored compound or a colored extract containing it, and (ii) a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) (I) in which represents a single or double bond, R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NRxRy group, a halogen, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), C1-C6), Rx and Ry represent, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl,R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo group, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group. It also relates to its uses in the field of care and / or makeup compositions for keratin materials.

Description

Title of the invention: Colored powders of natural origin and uses FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and in particular colored powders of natural origin. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Cosmetic products, particularly makeup products, use synthetic pigments or dyes, but consumers, looking for more natural and environmentally friendly ingredients, are driving the development of new pigments that are more natural but just as effective and offer a wider range of colors.

[0003] However, the natural pigments currently available on the market have poor coverage, are not very stable to light and have low liveliness.

[0004] There therefore remains a need to develop new pigments (otherwise known as colored powders) based on natural colored compounds and / or colored extracts of plant origin meeting these needs.

[0005] The Applicant has shown that the use of a nitrogen compound of formula (I), in association with natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or colored extracts containing them, makes it possible to obtain colored powders having improved properties in terms of stability to light and pH, vividness of the shade, and coverage. These colored powders are in particular obtained by a step of solubilization of the nitrogen compound of formula (I), to fix, in a non-covalent manner, the natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or extracts containing them, inside or on the surface of the crystal formed by the compound of formula (I).

[0006] These colored powders of natural origin thus constitute an interesting alternative to synthetic pigments. Statement of the invention

[0007] A first object of the invention is a colored powder comprising the combination of:

[0008] (i) a natural colored compound or of natural origin or a colored extract in container, and

[0009] (ii) a nitrogen compound of formula (I) R, (I) N '

[0010] in which ^represents a single or double bond,

[0011] R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0012] R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, NRxRy, a halogen, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0013] Rx and Ry represent, independently of each other, H or C1-C6 alkyl,

[0014] R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0015] or

[0016] R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group.

[0017] In particular, the colored powder according to the invention is insoluble.

[0018] By "insoluble colored powder" is meant according to the invention a powdery colored material (in the form of particles) insoluble in water, nor in ethanol, nor in water / ethanol mixtures in all proportions, at a concentration of 0.5% by weight, at room temperature (25°C).

[0019] The nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, constitutes a natural support having a high refractive index (1.8). The colored compounds and / or extracts are adsorbed on the surface and / or inside the crystal formed by the guanine, thus creating a colored pigment (otherwise called colored powder according to the invention), of a more vivid shade and with better coverage than the proposals currently on the market. Advantageously, moreover, the process for preparing the colored powder according to the invention does not involve any metal salt. This new colored powder therefore constitutes an interesting alternative to synthetic pigments, of natural origin (excluding animal origin), with improved properties in terms of pH and light stability, coverage and vibrancy, compared to natural pigments currently on the market.

[0020] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the colored powder according to the invention does not comprise any metallic salt of aluminum or zinc.

[0021] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the colored powder according to the invention comprises a magnesium salt.

[0022] The invention also relates to a process for preparing a colored powder as defined in the invention, comprising the following steps: i. Solubilization of said nitrogen compound of formula (I) in an aqueous solution, preferably basic, ii. Solubilization of one or more natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or extracts containing them (water-soluble compound ii), in an aqueous or ethanolic solution, optionally acidified iia), or alternatively solubilization of one or more natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or extracts containing them (liposoluble compound ii), in an organic solvent, in particular carbonyl iib), iii. Introduction of the solution obtained in i) into a colored solution obtained in ii), optionally in the presence of acid for the aqueous solution, to co-precipitate the nitrogen compound of formula (I) and the natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or a colored extract containing them and form said colored powder, iv. Separation of the liquid phase from the solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, v. Rinsing of said colored powder obtained in iv) with ethanol and separation of the liquid phase from said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, vi. Rinsing said colored powder obtained in v) with water and separation of the liquid phase from said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, vii. Drying said colored powder.

[0023] As a basic solution, it is possible in particular to use a solution comprising water and NaOH.

[0024] As acid, it is possible in particular to use citric acid, lactic acid, or acetic acid.

[0025] The drying step can be carried out in particular by zeodration, freeze-drying or oven drying.

[0026] Another subject of the invention is a pigment paste comprising a colored powder as defined in the invention and one or more oils.

[0027] It also relates to a process for preparing a pigment paste as defined above comprising the following steps: i. Grinding of said colored powder as defined in the invention, and ii. Mixing with one or more oils.

[0028] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a colored powder as defined in the invention or a pigment paste as defined in the invention, and one or more additional ingredients chosen from oils, C1-C5 monoalcohols, glycols, surfactants, fillers, gelling or structuring agents, film-forming agents, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] Another subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Colored powder

[0030] A first object of the invention is therefore a colored powder comprising the association of:

[0031] (i) a natural or naturally occurring colored compound or a colored extract in container, and

[0032] (ii) a nitrogen compound of formula (I) R, (I) R-, À Rt R. N

[0033] in which R' represents a single or double bond,

[0034] R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0035] R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, NRxRy, a halogen, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0036] Rx and R- represent, independently of each other, H or C1-C6 alkyl,

[0037] R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0038] Rx and R- represent, independently of each other, H or C1-C6 alkyl,

[0039] R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0040] Rx and R- represent, independently of each other, H or C1-C6 alkyl,

[0041] R6 and R7 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0042] Rx and R- represent, independently of each other, H or C1-C6 alkyl,

[0043] R7 and R8 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, an optionally substituted C1-C several, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0038] or

[0039] R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group.

[0040] Natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or a colored extract in containing (compound i)

[0041] The composition of the invention comprises at least one natural or naturally occurring colored compound or a colored extract containing it.

[0042] By "natural colored compound" according to the invention, we mean a colored compound that is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0043] By "colored compound of natural origin" according to the invention, we mean a natural colored compound having undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, generating modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising mainly natural constituents that have or have not undergone transformations, as indicated above. As a non-limiting example of additional chemical or industrial treatment generating modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, we can mention those authorized by control organizations such as Ecocert (Reference for organic and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9:10).

[0044] By “colored extract” according to the invention, we mean an extract containing one or more natural or naturally occurring colored compounds as defined above.

[0045] This colored extract will preferably be natural or of natural origin according to the preceding definitions and preferably, it will be a colored extract of plant origin.

[0046] By "colored extract of natural origin" according to the invention, we mean an extract containing one or more colored compounds derived from plant material or from a secretion of plant material. They can in particular come from any part of a plant, such as roots, stems, trunks, leaves, flowers, fruits, and mixtures thereof. They can also come from plant secretions, produced in particular in reaction to or in prevention of stress. These colored extracts of plant origin can be obtained by grinding, by extraction with water or solvents, or with supercritical CO2, by chemical or enzymatic attack or by a combination of these means.

[0047] Natural colored compounds or those of natural origin or extracted from them containing uti readable in cosmetics are notably cited in Annex IV of Regulation (EC) No. 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 relating to cosmetic products.

[0048] According to a particular embodiment, the natural or naturally occurring compounds that can be used in the colored powder of the invention are chosen from the following compounds: curcumin, lactoflavin (or riboflavin), b-carotene, capsanthin / capsorubin, lycopene, caramel, chlorophyll (or the copper-chlorophyll complex), anthocyanins (e.g. cyanidin, delphinidin, pelargonidin, peonidin, or malvidin), betalains and their derivatives, violacein and deoxy violacein, flavonoids, or a natural extract containing them, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] A person skilled in the art will know, for example, how to choose the type of anthocyanin depending on the desired color. For example, he will advantageously use pelargonidin for more red pigments and delphinidin for more blue pigments.

[0050] According to a first particular embodiment, the colored powder according to the invention comprises a natural colored compound or one of natural water-soluble origin, or an extract containing it.

[0051] As natural or naturally water-soluble colored compound, mention may in particular be made of curcumin, lactoflavin, caramel, chlorophyll, anthocyanins, betalains and their derivatives, violacein and deoxy violacein, flavonoids, or a natural extract containing them, and mixtures thereof. , preferably curcumin, lactoflavin, caramel, chlorophyll, anthocyanins, betalains and their derivatives, flavonoids, or a natural extract containing them, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] According to a first particular embodiment, the colored powder according to the invention comprises a natural or naturally originating liposoluble colored compound, or an extract containing it.

[0053] As natural or naturally derived fat-soluble colored compounds, we can cite in particular beta-carotene, Capsanthin / Capsorubin and Lycopene.

[0054] It is also possible to use extracts containing them, in particular plant extracts.

[0055] As a colored extract of plant origin rich in anthocyanins, mention may be made in particular of extracts of black carrot, elderberry, hibiscus, blackcurrant, purple corn, black potato, purple potato, red cabbage, red onion, black grape, cranberry, strawberry, raspberry, black soybean, aronia, radish, redcurrant, blueberry, cherry, eggplant and black rice, preferably radish or hibiscus.

[0056] As extracts rich in betalains and their derivatives, we can cite in particular beetroot extracts.

[0057] As a colored extract of plant origin rich in curcumin, we can cite turmeric extract.

[0058] As a colored extract of plant origin rich in beta-carotene, we can cite in particular extracts of carrot, sweet potato, pumpkin.

[0059] As a colored extract of plant origin rich in Capsanthin / Capsorubin, we can notably cite paprika extracts.

[0060] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the natural or naturally occurring colored compound is chosen from water-soluble natural colored compounds and fat-soluble natural colored compounds, in particular curcumin, lactoflavin, caramel, chlorophyll, anthocyanins, betalains and their derivatives, violacein and deoxy violacein, flavonoids, and mixtures thereof, preferably curcumin, lactoflavin, caramel, chlorophyll, anthocyanins, betalains and their derivatives, flavonoids, or a natural extract containing them, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Preferably, the total content of natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or colored extract containing them ranges from 0.01 to 15%, in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said colored powder.

[0062] The colored powder according to the invention also comprises at least one nitrogen compound of formula (I) as defined below. Nitrogen compound of formula (I) (compound ii)

[0063] The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one compound of formula (I) R, (i) R<

[0064] in which ; A represents a single or double bond,

[0065] R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0066] R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, NRxRy, a halogen, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0067] Rx and R' represent, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl,

[0068] R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0069] or

[0070] R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group.

[0071] It is understood that in the compound of formula (I), << represents a single or a double bond such that each atom of the ring is neutral. In other words, each nitrogen atom of the ring has a valence of 3 and each carbon atom of the ring has a valence of 4.

[0072] In some embodiments, R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H and a C1-C6 alkyl group, especially an alkyl.

[0073] In some embodiments, R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NRxRy group and a C1-C6 alkyl group, especially an alkyl. Preferably, R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo and NH2 group. Typically, at least one of R2 and R4 represents an oxo or thioxo group. Preferably, R4 represents an oxo or thioxo group, especially an oxo group.

[0074] In some embodiments, R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group and a C1-C6 alkyl group, especially a methyl group.

[0075] In other embodiments, R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded form an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular an optionally substituted phenyl, or an optionally substituted imidazole group. Preferably, the aryl group, in particular phenyl, or imidazole is optionally substituted by one or more, preferably 1 to 2, substituents selected from the group consisting of a C1-C6 alkyl group, OH and O-C1-C6 alkyl group, for example a methoxy group.

[0076] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a compound of formula (I) corresponding to the following formula (IA): ^4 Rp (the A) R 1 rAAt^A Rj ^9

[0077] in which

[0078] R7 is selected from H, C1-C6 alkyl, oxo, OH, thioxo, SH and O-C1-C6 alkyl, < -; and R1 to R4 are as defined above, and

[0079] R8 and R9 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, or one or more, preferably one to four methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl).

[0080] R7 is in particular selected from H and an oxo group.

[0081] Preferably, in (IA), R1 and R3 are independently absent or represent H, R2 is selected from H, an oxo group and NH2, R4 is an oxo group and R7 is selected from H and an oxo group.

[0082] In a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is selected from: S ïhêGphÿISnê O fhymim barbïtiMc âdd H

[0083] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a compound of formula (I) chosen from the following compounds of formula (IA): thiaguanine O uric acid OHH H xanthine Guanine hypoxanthine theophylline

[0084]

[0085]

[0086]

[0087]

[0088] preferably xanthine, hypoxanthine, uric acid and guanine, more preferably xanthine, hypoxanthine, and guanine, more preferably guanine. Preferably, in the compound of formula (IA), R1 is absent, R2 is an NH2 group, R3 is H and R4 is an oxo group. In this embodiment, the compound of formula (I) corresponds to the guanine of the following formula: guanine For the purposes of the present invention, the term “[Cx-Cy] aliphatic chain” means a saturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain comprising x to y, in particular 1 to 12, carbon atoms. According to the invention, an aliphatic chain covers substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl groups. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “(Cx-Cy) alkyl” group means a saturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain comprising x to y, preferably x to y, carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl or hexyl groups. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “(Cx-Cy) alkenyl” means a monovalent, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising at least one double bond and comprising x to y carbon atoms, with x greater than or equal to 2. By way of example, mention may be made of ethenyl, propenyl, allyl, butenyl, pentenyl or hexenyl groups.

[0089] By “(Cx-Cy) alkynyl” group is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, a monovalent, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least one triple bond and comprising x to y carbon atoms, with x greater than or equal to 2. By way of example, mention may be made of ethynyl, propynyl, butynyl, pentynyl, or hexynyl groups.

[0090] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “halogen atom” or “halogen” means fluorine, chlorine, bromine and iodine atoms.

[0091] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aryl" means an aromatic hydrocarbon group, preferably comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and comprising one or more fused rings, such as, for example, a phenyl or naphthyl group. Advantageously, this is phenyl.

[0092] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "heteroaryl" or "heteroaromatic" means an aromatic group comprising 5 to 10 cyclic atoms including one or more heteroatoms, advantageously 1 to 4 and even more advantageously 1 or 2, such as, for example, sulfur, nitrogen or oxygen atoms, the other cyclic atoms being carbon atoms. Examples of heteroaryl groups are furyl, thienyl, pyrrolyl, pyridinyl, imidazolyl, triazolyl, tetrazolyl, oxazolyl, isoxazolyl, thiazolyl, isothiazolyl, pyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, thia-diazolyl, pyridazinyl, pyrimidinyl, pyrazinyl, triazinyl, quinolyl, isoquinolyl, quinoxalyl or indyl.

[0093] By "optionally substituted" is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, that the group in question is optionally substituted by one or more, preferably 1 to 4 and in particular 1 or 2, substituents chosen from the group consisting of a halogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, OH, oxo, aryl, N3, CN NO2, aralkyl, NRaRb, CORc, CO2Rd, CONReRf, and ORg, in which Ra to Rg represents, independently of one another, H, C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 haloalkyl or aryl, preferably H or C1-C6 alkyl. Preferably, the substituent is chosen from a C1-C6 alkyl group, an oxo group or NRaRb.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (Ia) is guanine O H

[0095] The guanine (CI 75170) used according to the invention is generally in the form of a white to light yellow powder. It can be obtained from natural crystals (for example from fish scales), having undergone specific grinding (e.g.: grinder with air jet type powders) to form non-interferential particles having a size less than 30 pm, preferably less than 15 pm.

[0096] By "size of a particle" is meant its D50 or volume average size, corresponding to the particle size defined so that 50% by volume of the particles have a size less than D50. The volume average size can be evaluated by light diffraction using a Malvern MasterSizer laser granulometer, said particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium such as for example octyldodecyl neo-pentanoate.

[0097] According to a particular embodiment, the guanine particles according to the invention have a size ranging from 0.5 to 30 pm, in particular from 1 to 15 pm.

[0098] According to another particular embodiment, the compound of formula (La) is xanthine.

[0099] According to another particular embodiment, the compound of formula (La) is hypoxanthine.

[0100] In particular according to the invention, the natural or naturally occurring colored compound or an extract containing it (i) is adsorbed on the surface and / or inside the crystal formed by said nitrogen compound of formula (I). This “complexed” form between the colored compound and the nitrogen compound of formula (I) results from the step of solubilizing the nitrogen compound of formula (I), making it possible to fix, in a non-covalent manner, the natural or naturally occurring colored compound or an extract containing it (i) on the surface or inside the crystals of said nitrogen compound of formula (I).

[0101] The content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), preferably guanine, in the colored powder of the invention, will range in particular from 65 to 99%, in particular from 70 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the colored powder. Process for preparing colored powder

[0102] Generally, according to the process for preparing the colored powder of the invention, the nitrogen compound of formula (I) (compound i) is solubilized in an aqueous solution, then the solution is introduced into an aqueous or ethanolic colored solution comprising the natural or naturally occurring colored compound or an extract containing it (compound ii) inducing the coprecipitation of the nitrogen compound of formula (I) and the colored compound, leading to the formation of a colored powder (or colored pigment). The colored powder is then rinsed with ethanol and / or water and then dried.

[0103] Thus, the invention also relates to a process for preparing a colored powder as defined in the invention, comprising the following steps: i. Solubilization of said nitrogen compound of formula (I) (compound i) in an aqueous solution, preferably basic, ii. Solubilization of one or more natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or extracts containing them (water-soluble compound ii), in an aqueous or ethanolic solution, optionally acidified iia), or alternatively solubilization of one or more natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or extract containing it (fat-soluble compound ii), in an organic solvent, in particular carbonyl iib), iii. Introduction of the solution obtained in i) into a colored solution obtained in ii), optionally in the presence of acid for the aqueous solution, to co-precipitate the nitrogen compound of formula (I) and the natural colored compounds and / or colored extracts of plant origin and form said colored powder, iv. Separation of the liquid phase from the solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, v. Rinsing of said colored powder obtained in iv) with ethanol and separation of the liquid phase from said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, vi. Rinsing said colored powder obtained in v) with water and separation of the liquid phase from said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, and vii. Drying of said colored powder.

[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, in solubilization step (ii), the natural or naturally occurring colored compound(s) or extracted therefrom is soluble in an aqueous or ethanolic solution, preferably soluble in an aqueous solution.

[0105] According to a first embodiment, the natural colored compounds are water-soluble.

[0106] The colored powders according to the invention are for example prepared at room temperature according to the following protocol:

[0107] 1. Solubilize guanine in a basic aqueous solution,

[0108] 2. Solubilize the natural colored compound in an aqueous solution or solvent organic miscible with water (Example: ethanol), acidified if necessary,

[0109] 3. Transfer the guanine solution into the dye solution while stirring,

[0110] 4. Add acid to precipitate if necessary and leave in contact for the time required necessary,

[0111] 5. Separate the liquid from the solid (by filtration or centrifugation),

[0112] 6. Wash the solid with ethanol,

[0113] 7. Separate the liquid from the solid again,

[0114] 8. Wash the solid with water,

[0115] 9. Separate the liquid from the solid again,

[0116] 10. Dry the solid (preferably cold), and

[0117] 11. Grind.

[0118] According to another embodiment, the natural colored compounds are liposoluble.

[0119] The colored powders according to the invention are for example prepared at room temperature according to the following protocol:

[0120] 1. Solubilize guanine in a basic aqueous solution,

[0121] 2. Solubilize the natural colored compound in an aqueous solution or solvent organic (Example: acetone), acidified if necessary,

[0122] 3. Transfer the guanine solution into the dye solution while stirring,

[0123] 4. Add acid to precipitate if necessary and leave in contact for the time required necessary,

[0124] 5. Separate the liquid from the solid (by filtration or centrifugation),

[0125] 6. Wash the solid with ethanol,

[0126] 7. Separate the liquid from the solid again,

[0127] 8. Wash the solid with water,

[0128] 9. Separate the liquid from the solid again,

[0129] 10. Dry the solid (preferably cold), and

[0130] IL Crusher. Pigment paste

[0131] Another subject of the invention is a pigment paste comprising a colored powder as defined in the invention and one or more oils.

[0132] It also relates to a process for preparing a pigment paste as defined above comprising the following steps: i. Grinding of said colored powder as defined in the invention, and ii. Mixing with one or more oils.

[0133] A pigment paste may comprise one or more colored powders.

[0134] According to a first embodiment, the pigment paste comprises a single colored powder (a single color).

[0135] According to another embodiment, the pigment paste comprises several colored powders according to the invention (mixture of colors).

[0136] According to a particular embodiment, the colored powder is subjected to at least one dry grinding step.

[0137] Among the various dry grinding processes, it is possible to use powder mills by friction, collision, or a combination of these, making it possible to obtain fine to very fine grinding qualities (D50 < 30 pm or even < 15 pm), such as air jet mills (or neutral gas) or pin mills, in particular the air jet mill.

[0138] In particular, air jet or pin mills can be used, more preferably the air jet mill.

[0139] The person skilled in the art will use the powder grinders according to the supplier's recommendations.

[0140] The drying step is in particular carried out by heating, preferably by placing in an oven at a temperature greater than or equal to 60°C, for a period ranging from 1 to 8 hours, and / or by contact with a flow of dry air.

[0141] The drying step makes it possible to eliminate water and thus increase the covering power of the colored powder. This step can in particular be carried out using an oven.

[0142] The oil(s) that can be used for the preparation of the pigment pastes according to the invention can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0143] By “oil” is meant a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0144] According to the invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0145] By “silicone oil” is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0146] Preferably, hydrocarbon oils will be used.

[0147] Mention may in particular be made of linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, C10-C40 synthetic ethers, C10-C40 synthetic esters, C12-C26 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 higher fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0148] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment pastes according to the invention will comprise at least one ester oil.

[0149] Among the “ester oils” (polar), we can notably cite:

[0150] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, propyl gallate; glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0151] - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0152] - synthetic esters such as oils of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri re has the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri+R2 is >16, such as for example isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

[0153] - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;

[0154] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0155] - esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids;

[0156] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of carbo- carboxylic acid(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0157] and mixtures thereof.

[0158] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment paste comprises a hydrocarbon oil chosen from hydroxylated esters, synthetic esters and their mixtures, preferably hydroxylated esters.

[0159] The colored powder according to the invention or the pigment paste according to the invention can be formulated in cosmetic compositions further comprising at least one additional ingredient. Cosmetic composition

[0160] Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a colored powder as defined in the invention or a pigment paste as defined in the invention, and one or more additional ingredients chosen from oils, C1-C5 monoalcohols, glycols, surfactants, fillers, gelling or structuring agents, film-forming agents, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.

[0161] By "cosmetic composition" according to the invention, we mean any composition for cosmetic purposes, i.e. aesthetic purposes, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0162] By "physiologically acceptable medium" according to the invention, we mean any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0163] By "keratin materials" according to the invention, we mean the skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly the human skin and / or lips. In particular, this will be the skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and the lips. The keratin materials in the context of the invention are healthy, that is to say not presenting any troubles or disorders which would be part of a pathological state ("non-healthy" subjects, suffering from a pathology). We will speak indifferently of healthy skin and / or lips or skin and / or lips in the rest of the description.

[0164] As oils in the composition, mention may in particular be made of oils such as described above for pigment pastes.

[0165] By “fillers” is meant particles of any shape, in particular platelet-like, spherical or oblong, colorless or white, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to confer a mattifying effect.

[0166] The “fillers” may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with silicones, amino acids, derivatives fluorinated or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0167] The fillers are generally chosen from mineral or organic fillers.

[0168] We can notably cite silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc and titanium oxides; cellulose powders; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate; boron nitride; bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, calcium silicate; lauroyl lysine powder fermented by saccharomyces such as the product GRANPOWDER; lauroyl lysine; clays; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid (PMMA) powders; crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, coated or not with silicone resin; silicone resin powders (INCI name polymethylsilsesquioxane);powders of organic materials of natural origin such as starch powders such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, powders of plant origin, such as rice powders, cotton powders, silk powders, and mixtures thereof.;

[0169] As gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of mineral gelling agents, such as bentones, and polymeric gelling agents such as polysaccharide or acrylic gelling agents.

[0170] As structuring agents, mention may in particular be made of fatty substances, pasty fatty substances and their mixtures.

[0171] By “fatty substance” according to the invention, we mean a solid compound or one comprising a solid fraction at 25°C. We may cite in particular butters, waxes, pasty compounds, and their mixtures.

[0172] By “pasty fatty body” is meant a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0173] Fatty substances can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0174] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a solid compound with 25°C which exhibits a reversible solid / liquid state change and a melting temperature above 30°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0175] The composition may also comprise additional pigments, distinct from the colored powder according to the invention.

[0176] By "pigments" is meant white or colored particles, inorganic (mineral) or organic, insoluble in the aqueous phase in which they are dispersed, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit made with the composition. Mention may be made of mineral pigments, gold pigments organic, and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0177] Among the “mineral pigments”, we can cite, as examples, black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxides, ferric blue, carbon black, and mixtures thereof.

[0178] Among the “organic pigments”, mention may be made in particular of lakes obtained from dyes such as the dyes D&C Black No. 2, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C orange No. 10, D&C No. red 3, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C red No. 9, D&C red No. 13, D&C red No. 19, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 36, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Yellow No. 10 carbon black and cochineal carmine lakes.

[0179] The pearlescent pigments are for example chosen from mica coated with titanium oxide, mica-titanium coated with iron oxide, mica-titanium coated with ferric blue, mica-titanium coated with chromium oxide, or tin oxide; mica-titanium coated with an organic pigment as described above, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0180] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises organic pigments, in particular chosen from D&C dyes and cochineal carmine-based lakes, as mentioned above.

[0181] The composition of the invention may be an anhydrous composition.

[0182] By "anhydrous composition" is meant in particular that water is not deliberately added to the composition of the invention but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is free of water.

[0183] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise an aqueous phase.

[0184] The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0185] According to the invention, the term 'water-soluble solvent' means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). In particular, mention may be made of:

[0186] - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;

[0187] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols;

[0188] - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylenes glycols, and their mixtures,

[0189] and mixtures thereof. Galenic

[0190] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular a composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips.

[0191] It can be in the form of a lotion, a dispersion, a gel, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a multiple emulsion, an anhydrous composition, a compact powder, a loose powder, a solid composition such as a stick, a poured into a cup, a balm.

[0192] As a skin care composition, mention may in particular be made of a cream or serum for the face and / or neck.

[0193] As a lip care composition, we can notably cite a lip balm.

[0194] As a skin makeup composition, we can cite in particular a foundation, a foundation base, a foundation powder, a foundation corrector, an eye shadow, or a blush.

[0195] As a makeup composition for the lips, we can cite in particular a lipstick, a lip stick, a lip contour pencil, a lip lacquer, a lip balm, or a gloss.

[0196] According to another particular embodiment, the composition is a composition for the skin, in particular a foundation or a foundation powder.

[0197] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a composition for the face or the lips, in particular a face powder or a composition for the lips in the form of a stick, balm, gloss or lip lacquer.

[0198] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is a composition for the lips, in particular an anhydrous composition for the lips.

[0199] According to another embodiment, the composition is a composition for the nails, in particular a nail varnish.

[0200] According to another embodiment, the composition is for the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows. Cosmetic process

[0201] Another object of the invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials comprising the application to said keratin materials ratinic, of a composition as defined in the invention.

[0202] The compositions used in the cosmetic process according to the invention are as described above.

[0203] Applied to keratin materials, the composition of the invention provides color.

[0204] The use of the colored powder of the invention makes it possible to have a color of good liveliness, and which is stable to light and pH, making it possible to facilitate the formulation of care and makeup products even under restrictive pH conditions, and making it possible to obtain improved color properties and ranges of shades in the final compositions.

[0205] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The % are expressed as % by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0206] Example 1: Preparation of a colored powder on a guanine support

[0207] Guanine (CI 75170) is used as a substrate. 1. Process with a hydrophilic natural compound

[0208] Different natural colored compounds were used: cyanidin (anthocyanin), radish juice (anthocyanin), beetroot juice, and curcumin respectively, and made it possible to obtain the corresponding colored powders.

[0209] The colored powders are prepared at room temperature according to the following protocol:

[0210] 1. Solubilize the guanine in a basic aqueous solution (NaOH IN),

[0211] 2. Solubilize the natural colored compound in an aqueous solution or solvent organic miscible with water (Example: ethanol), acidified if necessary (for example with acetic acid),

[0212] 3. Transfer the guanine solution into the dye solution while stirring,

[0213] 4. Add acid to precipitate if necessary and leave in contact for the time required necessary,

[0214] 5. Separate the liquid from the solid (by filtration or centrifugation),

[0215] 6. Wash the solid with ethanol,

[0216] 7. Separate the liquid from the solid again,

[0217] 8. Wash the solid with water,

[0218] 9. Separate the liquid from the solid again,

[0219] 10. Dry the solid (preferably cold), for example by zeodratation or lyophilization. lization, and

[0220] 11. Grind. 1. Process with a lipophilic natural compound

[0221] Lipophilic natural colored compounds such as beta-carotene or lycopene make it possible to obtain the corresponding colored powders.

[0222] The colored powders are prepared at room temperature according to the following protocol:

[0223] 1. Solubilize the guanine in a basic aqueous solution (NaOH IN),

[0224] 2. Solubilize the natural colored compound in an aqueous solution or solvent organic (Example: acetone), acidified if necessary (for example: acetic acid),

[0225] 3. Transfer the guanine solution into the dye solution while stirring,

[0226] 4. Add acid to precipitate if necessary and leave in contact for the time required necessary,

[0227] 5. Separate the liquid from the solid (by filtration or centrifugation),

[0228] 6. Wash the solid with ethanol,

[0229] 7. Separate the liquid from the solid again,

[0230] 8. Wash the solid with water,

[0231] 9. Separate the liquid from the solid again,

[0232] 10. Dry the solid (preferably cold), for example by zeodratation or lyophilization. lization, and

[0233] 11. Crush.

[0234] Example 2: Comparative study with other processes

[0235] The colored powder used in these tests is a guanine-cyanidine powder obtained according to the process described in Example 1.1.

[0236] Different tests were carried out under the following conditions: - with and without metal (Mg), - with guanine compared to allantoin (another nitrogen compound outside the invention), - with and without solubilization step.

[0237] In this study the magnesium salt used was magnesium acetate tetrahydrate.

[0238] The reagent modifications were made in isomolar.

[0239] The colored powders obtained were then evaluated according to their yield. (expressed in %), their coverage (expressed in %) and their stability to light (delta E between control and suntest), according to the following protocols:

[0240] The yield is calculated from the mass of dry pigment obtained (colored powder) and the masses of reagents used (anthocyanin or extract + metallic salt + guanine) according to the formula: m pigment sssc (g) m reagents (g) X IM Coverage measurement:

[0241] - Preparation of a varnish with 4% of ground colored powder in a varnish base; - The varnish is spread evenly (spread of 300pm) on a card contrast (e.g. Leneta 2A) and then dried; - The dry spread is analyzed using a spectrophotometer (MA98, at 45° to the specular angle).

[0242] In the results described below in Table 1, the coverage is expressed as a percentage: 100% indicates that there is no color difference between the black part and the white part of the contrast map after spreading; then, by comparison between the white side and the black side, a % coverage is obtained. Light stability measurement

[0243] - The varnish contrast card is cut out and one part is irradiated with Suntest (765W / m2 for 100 min with a 'window glass' filter) and the other part is placed in the dark; - The color of the 2 mini-cards is measured with a spectrophotometer; - The color variation between the two samples allows us to obtain the Delta E. The lower the Delta E, the more stable the color is to light.

[0244] The results are presented in the following Table 1:

[0245] [Tables 1] Conditions Process Yield in % Coverage Light stability (delta E between control and suntest) With solubilized guanine (invention) cyanidin solubilized in acidified EtOH + guanine solubilized in 1N NaOH. Mixture of the 2 reagents, then wash with ethanol then with water then dry 74.5% 73.2% 2.8 (stable) With solubilized guanine + Mg cyanidin solubilized in acidified EtOH + Mg solubilized in water + guanine solubilized in 1N NaOH. Mixture of the 3 reagents, then wash with ethanol then with water then dry 39.0% 75.5% 3.1 With solubilized allantoin (comparative) cyanidin solubilized in acidified EtOH + allantoin solubilized in 1N NaOH. Mixing of the 2 reagents, then washing with ethanol then with water then drying Not applicable (no powder obtained) Not applicable Not applicable With solubilized allantoin + Mg (comparative) cyanidin solubilized in acidified EtOH + Mg solubilized in water + allantoin solubilized in NaOH IN. Mixture of the 3 reagents, then washing with ethanol then with water then drying 2.3% Yield too low for reliable measurement Not measurable Without nitrogen compound + Mg cyanidine solubilized in acidified EtOH + Mg solubilized in water + NaOH Mixture of the 3 reagents, then washing with ethanol then with water then drying 4.2% Yield too low for reliable measurement Not measurable With guanine powder (comparative) Cyanidin solubilized in acidified EtOH + guanidine powder Mixture of the 2 reagents then washing with ethanol then with water then drying 65.9% 64.6% 12.5 (not stable) With guanine powder + Mg (comparative) Cyanidin solubilized in acidified EtOH 35.5% 68.9% 15.4 (not stable) + Mg Mixture of the 2 reagents then addition of powdered guanidine, then washing with ethanol then with water then drying

[0246] These results show in particular that: - Allantoin (another nitrogenous compound distinct from the nitrogenous compounds of formula (I) defined in the present invention) does not make it possible to obtain a colored powder according to the invention; and - when the dye and the support are solubilized, the color of the pigment (colored powder) is intense, vivid and stable to light. This is not the case when the support (guanine here) is not solubilized. The solubilization of the reagents therefore allows pigmentation (formation of the colored powder).

[0247] These results thus show that the colored powder according to the invention, obtained by a step of solubilization of the substrate (e.g.: guanine) and formation of a complex with a colored compound (e.g.: cyanidine), makes it possible to obtain the best results in terms of yield, coverage and stability to light, compared to other conditions. The addition of a magnesium salt reduces the yield but makes it possible to further improve the coverage, and may therefore nevertheless be of interest.

[0248] Example 3: Evaluation of the properties of the colored powders of the invention

[0249] Different colored powders were prepared on guanine support according to the protocol described in Example 1.1, respectively with the following natural colored compounds: cyanidin, raids, beet juice and curcumin. These colored powders (otherwise called 'guanine-colored compound complex' in this example), were evaluated for their stability to pH and respectively to light and pH according to the following protocols, compared to the natural colored compounds alone:

[0250] Visual evaluation of pH stability (tests at pH= 4 and pH= 8):

[0251] The color of the solution of the compound alone and the corresponding colored powder at the same concentration are observed by the naked eye at different pHs.

[0252] Visual evaluation of stability to light and pH (tests at pH= 4 and pH= 8):

[0253] The color of the solution of the compound alone and of the colored powder corresponding to the same concentration are observed with the naked eye, before and after exposure to natural light.

[0254] The results are presented in the following Table 2:

[0255] [Tables2] pH stability T0 (pH 4 and pH 8) pH and light stability T+2d in light (pH 4 and pH 8) Cyanidin (RC 1980) (control) Color variation Discoloration Guanine-cyanidin complex* (invention) Stable color Stable color Radish (cerocol red radish) (control) Color variation Discoloration Guanine-radish complex* (invention) Stable color Stable color Beetroot juice (control) Stable color Discoloration Guanine-beetroot juice complex* (invention) Stable color Stable color Curcumin (RC-0609) (control) Color variation Stable color Guanine-curcumin complex* (invention) Stable color Stable color

[0256] *colored powders prepared according to the protocol described in example 1.1.

[0257] These results show that the colored powders (guanine-colored compound complexes) according to the invention have better stability to pH and light than the natural colored compounds alone.

[0258] These colored powders according to the invention were also evaluated for the liveliness of their color, compared to commercial pigments (natural or synthetic).

[0259] Color vividness can be assessed by eye or by a measure of vividness index calculation: - Color measurements allow access to L, a, b, C, h values ​​(CIE LAB color space).

[0260] The liveliness index is calculated with the following formula: V[C2+(L-50)2] / 10

[0261] The 'guanine-radish' colored powder is more vibrant than the New Red 1805 pigment.

[0262] The colored powder 'guanine-curcumin' is more vivid than the Sunpuro pigment Yellow Iron Oxide and J1 Yellow Pigment.

[0263] Example 4: Preparation of a colored powder on different supports, respectively guanine, xanthine and hypoxanthine

[0264] The colored compound used is curcumin.

[0265] The substrate used is guanine, xanthine or respectively hypoxanthine.

[0266] The colored powders are prepared according to the protocol described in example 1.1.

[0267] The colored powders obtained were evaluated according to different criteria: coverage, color (L, C, h, a and b), coloring strength and yield, according to the following protocols:

[0268] Coverage and light stability were evaluated as described in Example 2.

[0269] The liveliness index was evaluated as described in Example 3.

[0270] Color and coloring strength were evaluated according to the following protocols: Measurement of powder color on photo

[0271] - The color of the powder is measured on photos taken under the same lighting and exposure conditions (Canon EOS 250D, 85mm lens; manual setting f20, l / 15s, ISO 200) - The measurement is carried out using Image J image analysis software. Measurement of color in paste (Coloring strength)

[0272] - The colored powder is ground into a mixture in a suitable oil to obtain a colored paste; - The colored paste is mixed with a commercial white MCL (White Filler and Binder Medium) (50% ground TiO2 in a suitable oil) in a ratio of 1 to 4; - The mixture is ground until a homogeneous paste is obtained; a degraded paste is obtained; - The degraded paste is spread evenly (0.5mm thick) on a contrast card then the color is measured with a spectrophotometer (MA98, at 45° to the specular angle).

[0273] The results are presented in the following Table 3:

[0274] [Tables3] Coverage L* C* h° a* b* Color strength Yield Delt aE Curcumin + Guanine 23.6 80.37 103.76 83.76 H. 28 103.15 90.54 90.50% 7.7 8 Curcumin + Xanthine 28.3 83.09 109. 79 86.4 6.9 109.57 94.96 94.90% 5.3 Curcumin + Hypoxanthine 33.9 81.47 93.0 8 82.17 12.68 92.2 1 44.5 69.10% 7.3 5

[0275] All the results show that the colored powders obtained according to the invention have good coverage (> 20), and good light stability (Delta E < 8). Furthermore, the liveliness indices, calculated from the values ​​of L, a, b, C, h (CIE LAB color space) as described in example 3, are greater than 5, indicating significant liveliness. Example 5: Formulations

[0276] The colored powders according to the invention are used like conventional pigments, and are formulated in the formulations according to the conventional formulation methods, generally with a pre-dispersion step in one of the solvents of the formulation for better dispersion in the composition.

[0277] 5. 1 Lip balm

[0278] [Tables4] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight Silica 10 Nylon powder 7 Polyethylene wax 17 Glycerin 14 Isopropyl myristate QsplOO Butylene glycol 5 Colored powder on guanine support* 1

[0279] * prepared according to example 1

[0280] 5.2 Lip stick

[0281] [Tables5] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight Caprylic / capric acid triglycerides (60 / 40) 2 Lauric / palmitic / cetylic / stearic acid glycerides (50 / 20 / 10 / 10) 2 Isopropyl isostearate 7 Candelilla wax 11 Rice starch 1 alpha-D-Glucopyranoside, beta-D-fructofuranosyl, acetate 2-methylpropanoate 30 Rapeseed oil 6.5 Hydrogenated olive oil myristyl esters 2 Colored powder on guanine support* 5 Hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters QsplOO

[0282] * prepared according to example 1

[0283] 5.3 Nail polish

[0284] [Tableauxô] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight Nitrocellulose 11 N-Ethy lo,p-toluenes sulfonamide 5 Alkyd resin 10 Isopropanol 4 Colored powder on guanine support* 5 Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50 / 50 QsplOO

[0285] * prepared according to example 1

Claims

Claims

1. Colored powder comprising the combination of: (i) a natural or naturally occurring colored compound or a colored extract containing it, and (ii) a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) R,. (i) N "' > t ' in which represents a single or double bond, R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NRxRy group, a halogen, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), Rx and Ry represent, independently of each other, H or C1-C6 alkyl,R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo group, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are attached form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group.,

2. Colored powder according to claim 1, characterized in that it is insoluble.

3. Colored powder according to claim 1 to 2, characterized in that the natural or naturally occurring colored compound is chosen from: water-soluble natural colored compounds and fat-soluble natural colored compounds, in particular curcumin, lactoflavin, b-carotene, capsanthin / capsorubin, lycopene, caramel, chlorophyll, anthocyanins, betalains and their derivatives, violacein and deoxy violacein, flavonoids or a colored extract containing them, and mixtures thereof.

4. A colored powder according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) corresponds to the following formula (IA): dA) "4 Rfi K 1 R^ '"N" " N to r in which R7 is selected from H, a C1-C6 alkyl group, an oxo group, OH, a thioxo group, SH and an O-C1-C6 alkyl group, and R1 to R4 are as defined in claim 1. R8 and R9 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

5. Colored powder according to claim 4, characterized in that in said compound (IA), R1 and R3 are independently absent or represent H, R2 is selected from H, an oxo group and NH2, R4 is an oxo group and R7 is selected from H and an oxo group.

6. Colored powder according to claim 4 or claim 5, characterized in that said compound (IA) is chosen from the following compounds: e U ? h H uo^n-'-n thioguanine xanthine hypoxanWne- 0 0 ! |j HH 1 il >° LH ? 0^' H H2N""N""N h II uric acid giwww fhœphyliing preferably xanthine, hypoxanthine, uric acid and guanine, more preferably guanine.

7. Colored powder according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the natural or naturally occurring colored compound or a colored extract containing it is adsorbed on the surface and / or inside the crystal formed by said compound of formula (I).

8. Colored powder according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it does not comprise a metallic salt of aluminum or zinc.

9. Colored powder according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises a magnesium salt.

10. Colored powder according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the total content of natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or a colored extract containing them ranges from 0.01 to 15%, in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said colored powder.

11. Colored powder according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I) or (Ia), preferably guanine, ranges from 65 to 99%, in particular from 70 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of said colored powder.

12. A process for preparing a colored powder as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising the following steps: i. Solubilization of said nitrogenous compound of formula (I) in a preferably basic aqueous solution, ii. Solubilization of one or more natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or extracts containing them (compound ii hy- drosoluble), in an aqueous or ethanolic solution, optionally acidified iia), or alternatively solubilization of one or more natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or extracts containing them (fat-soluble compound ii), in an organic solvent, in particular carbonyl iib), iii. Introduction of the solution obtained in i) into a colored solution obtained in ii), optionally in the presence of acid for the aqueous solution, to co-precipitate the nitrogen compound of formula (I) and the natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or natural extracts containing them and form said colored powder, iv. Separation of the liquid phase from the solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, v. Rinsing of said colored powder obtained in iv) with ethanol and separation of the liquid phase from said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, vi.Rinsing said colored powder obtained in v) with water and separation of the liquid phase from said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, and vii. Drying said colored powder.

13. Process for preparing a colored powder according to claim 12 characterized in that in step (ii) of solubilization, the natural or naturally occurring colored compound(s) or colored extracts containing them are soluble in an aqueous or ethanolic solution, preferably soluble in an aqueous solution.

14. A pigment paste comprising a colored powder as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11 or prepared according to the process of claim 12 or 13, and one or more oils.

15. A process for preparing a pigment paste as defined in claim 14 comprising the following steps: i. Grinding said colored powder as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11 or prepared according to the process of claim 12 or 13, and ii. Mixing with one or more oils.

16. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a colored powder as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11 or prepared according to the process of claim 12 or 13, or a pigment paste as defined in claim 14, and one or more additional ingredients chosen from oils, C1-C5 monoalcohols, glycols, surfactants, fillers, gelling or structuring agents, film-forming agents, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.

17. Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that it is a care composition or a makeup composition for the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips.

18. Cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in claim 16 or claim 17.