Cosmetic composition of the oil-in-water emulsion type with a powdery appearance
A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion composition with hydrophilic silica, volatile compounds, and specific surfactants addresses stability and sensory issues, achieving stable emulsions and a desirable powdery sensation.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023014991
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-22
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions struggle to maintain stability, particularly when incorporating high levels of powdery materials like hydrophobic silicas, which leads to phase shift and inadequate sensory properties such as immediate powderiness, lightness, and non-sticky feel.
A cosmetic composition comprising at least 7% by weight of hydrophilic silica, combined with at least 5% by weight of volatile compounds, and at least one surfactant with a C2-C14 hydrocarbon chain, which stabilizes the emulsion and provides a rapid volatility and powdery sensation upon drying.
The composition achieves stability without phase shift, offers a rapid volatility that forms a comfortable powder deposit upon drying, and provides a satisfactory perception of powderiness, lightness, and non-sticky feel.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition of the oil-in-water emulsion type with a powdery appearance Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic care and / or makeup compositions, in particular in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, and providing interesting sensory properties when applied and dried on a keratin material.
[0002] By “keratin material” is meant in particular the skin, the scalp, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, and the body hair, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, neck, décolleté, eye contour, eyelids). Prior art
[0003] The galenic forms conventionally used to provide a powdery feel are solid compositions comprising powdery materials such as loose or pressed powders, the latter also being called compact. These galenic forms are particularly appreciated by users, given their lightness, softness and non-sticky or greasy feel.
[0004] This type of powdery feel composition also exists in the form of a direct emulsion, namely an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. These compositions have the advantage of providing a similar or even more suitable sensoriality for skin care and, above all, of providing a perception of freshness and comfort upon application. They are also conducive to rapid evaporation of the liquid medium carrying the powdery materials.
[0005] On the other hand, with regard to these direct emulsion type compositions, there is a need to maintain their stability, in particular by limiting the phase shift phenomenon after manufacture, when particulate materials, such as powdery materials, are incorporated therein at a high charge rate. Among the particulate materials of these compositions generally are materials such as hydrophobic silicas and / or lauroyl lysine type particles, of a lipophilic nature. Due to their lack of affinity or low affinity for water, these particulate materials have the advantage of being more compatible with the architecture of direct emulsions, but the physicochemical stability of these emulsions does not remain optimal. Furthermore, the galenic formulas incorporating these materials do not provide users with an immediate perception of marked, soft and slippery powderiness, in particular during its drying and / or after drying on the skin.Now, this is precisely an expectation of users. readers.
[0006] There therefore remains a need for a composition capable of satisfying all of these requirements.
[0007] Thus, the present invention aims to develop a galenic formula capable of providing users with an almost immediate perception of powderiness upon application.
[0008] It also aims to offer a composition providing its users with feelings of lightness, softness and a non-sticky or greasy appearance to the touch.
[0009] It also aims to propose a galenic formula with a direct emulsion architecture stabilized over time.
[0010] Finally, the invention also aims to propose a galenic formula with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural and / or abundant origin. Indeed, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, the design and development of which take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions that can thus meet these environmental challenges.
[0011] As will be seen from the following, these objectives are precisely met according to the invention thanks to the selection of a specific particulate material, in this case a hydrophilic silica, and the formulation thereof with at least one particular surfactant and at least one particular volatile compound. Summary of the invention
[0012] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:
[0013] (a) at least 7% by weight of a hydrophilic silica relative to the total weight of the composition ; (b) at least 5% by weight of volatile compound(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, chosen from C1-C5 monoalcohols, C8-C16 hydrocarbon volatile oils, C8-C16 ester volatile oils, C8-C16 ether volatile oils, C8-C16 carbonic acid ester volatile oils, C8-C16 ketone volatile oils, C8-C16 aldehyde volatile oils, and mixtures thereof; and
[0014] (c) at least one surfactant comprising at least one C2-C14 hydrocarbon chain
[0015] Against all expectations, the inventors have thus found that a composition according to the invention exhibits good stability, in particular without phase shift after manufacture, while exhibiting rapid volatility at the time of application followed by formation of a deposit after drying providing a feeling of comfort and a satisfactory perception of powderiness.
[0016] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises:
[0017] - from 7% to 35% by weight of hydrophilic silica(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition ;
[0018] - from 5% to 35% by weight of volatile compounds (b) relative to the total weight of the com position, including at least one volatile C8-Ci6 hydrocarbon oil, in particular chosen from linear or branched C8-Ci6 alkane oils, and more particularly from linear or branched C9-Ci2 alkane oils; and
[0019] - 0.05% to 10% by weight of surfactant(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition position, in particular chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides, acylamino acids, geminal surfactants and mixtures thereof.
[0020] The present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined above is applied to the keratin material.
[0021] The present invention also relates to a use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.
[0022] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.
[0023] In what follows, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more” and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain. Detailed description
[0024] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic. By "cosmetic" is meant a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.
[0025] The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.
[0026] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.
[0027] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.0% by weight, in particular less than 0.5% by weight of silicone compound(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly free of silicone compound(s).
[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone compound" means a compound belonging to the family of siloxanes or polysiloxanes (silicones) known in the field of cosmetics, of formula R2SiO or [SiOR2]n, in which R is an organic group, for example alkyl. A silicone compound is, for example, chosen from silicone oils, silicone surfactants, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. Hydrophilic silica (a)
[0029] The composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic silica (a).
[0030] As is evident from the examples, the specific choice of this silica is advantageous. since it allows the composition to be given a much more pleasant perception than with compounds such as lauroyl lysine or a hydrophobic silica such as the compound with the INCI name: SILICA (and) TRHIHYDROXYSTEARIN.
[0031] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an amorphous hydrophilic silica (a).
[0032] An amorphous silica may be natural or synthetic. For example, a synthetic amorphous silica is chosen from microamorphous silicas and mixtures thereof, in particular silica gels, colloidal silicas, precipitated amorphous silicas, pyrogenic silicas and mixtures thereof.
[0033] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic silica (a) chosen from silicas having an average particle diameter ranging from 1 pM to 30 pm, in particular from 1 pM to 25 pm, and more particularly from 1 pM to 20 pm.
[0034] Such an average particle diameter can be characterized, for example, by means of an apparatus using the Coulter principle and in particular the Multisizer™ apparatus marketed by the company Beckman Coulter.
[0035] As hydrophilic silica (a), we can cite: the compound with the INCI name “SILICA”, marketed under the name SOLESPHERE™ H51 by the company AGC Chemicals Americas or SUNSPHERE® H51 by the company AGC SI TECH.
[0036] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 10% by weight, in particular at least 12% by weight, more particularly 14% by weight of hydrophilic silica(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0037] According to another embodiment, the composition comprises from 7% to 35% by weight, in particular from 7% to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 10% to 25% by weight of hydrophilic silica(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0038] As is clear from the examples below, the perception of powderiness is particularly mainly provided by the presence of a hydrophilic silica (a) and a significant content of volatile compound(s) (b). Volatile compound(s) (b)
[0039] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of a volatile compound (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, chosen from C1-C5 monoalcohols, C8-C16 hydrocarbon volatile oils, C8-C16 ester volatile oils, C8-C16 ether volatile oils, C8-C16 carbonic acid ester volatile oils, C8-C16 ketone volatile oils, C8-C16 aldehyde volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0040] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one C1-C5 monoalcohol.
[0041] The term “C1-C5 monoalcohols” means alcohols comprising a single hydroxyl function, linear or branched, and having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
[0042] It is noted that C1-C5 monoalcohols are preferentially water-soluble, i.e. liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
[0043] C1-C5 monoalcohols are, for example, ethanol, propanol such as n-propanol and isopropanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cyclohexanol, isobutyl alcohol and 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol).
[0044] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C1-C5 monoalcohol, and in particular ethanol.
[0045] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil chosen from:
[0046] - volatile C8-Ci6 hydrocarbon oils, particularly alkane oils linear or branched C8-Ci6, more particularly linear or branched C9-C[2] alkane oils;
[0047] - volatile C8-Ci6 ester oils, particularly linear or branched esters in C8-Cn;
[0048] - volatile C8-Ci6 ether oils, particularly linear or branched ethers in Cio-Cn;
[0049] - volatile oils C8-Ci6 carbonic acid esters, particularly esters linear or branched C8-Ci0 carbonic acids;
[0050] - volatile C8-Ci6 ketone oils, particularly linear ketones or branched in C9-C[2;
[0051] - volatile C8-Ci6 aldehyde oils, particularly linear aldehydes or branched in C8-Cn; and
[0052] - their mixtures.
[0053] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil volatile chosen from:
[0054] - volatile C8-C16 alkane oils, particularly linear alkane oils or branched C8-Ci6, more particularly linear or branched C9-C12 alkane oils;
[0055] - volatile C8-Ci6 ester oils, particularly linear or branched esters in C8-Cn;
[0056] - volatile C8-Ci6 ether oils, particularly linear or branched ethers in Cio-Ci3; and
[0057] - their mixtures.
[0058] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any volatile oil, preferably non-silicone, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or a keratinous fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) are liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
[0059] According to a particular embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from volatile C8-C16 hydrocarbon oils, also called alkane oils, and their mixtures.
[0060] The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil consisting of hydrogen and carbon atoms. A hydrocarbon oil may be a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, a mineral hydrocarbon oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil.
[0061] Among the volatile C8-Ci6 hydrocarbon oils, also called C8-Ci6 alkane oils, we can cite:
[0062] - branched C8-Ci6 alkane oils, in particular C8-Ci6 isoalkanes, also known as isoparaffins, such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, and mixtures thereof;
[0063] - linear C8-Ci6 alkane oils, in particular C10-Ci5, more particularly in C9-C14, such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (CM) respectively known under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97 and marketed by the company Sasol, and their mixtures, such as the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis, the mixture of linear alkanes in C9-C12 with the INCI name C9-12 ALKANE marketed under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK 100 by the BIOSYNTHIS company; and
[0064] - their mixtures.
[0065] Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from linear or branched C8-Ci6 alkane oils, and more particularly linear or branched C9-Ci2 alkane oils.
[0066] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of volatile C8-C16 hydrocarbon oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0067] According to another particular embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from C8-C16 volatile ester oils and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile ester oils may be chosen from:
[0068] - the esters of formula (I):
[0069] [Chem.l] RiCOOR2 (I)
[0070] in which
[0071] Ri represents a hydrogen atom H or a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical and
[0072] R2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical,
[0073] provided that:
[0074] - when R2 is a linear hydrocarbon radical and Ri is H or a hy radical linear drocarbon, then 7 < Ri + R2 < 8; and
[0075] - when at least one of Ri and R2 is a branched hydrocarbon radical, then 8 < Ri + R2 < 10 ; and
[0076] - their mixtures.
[0077] The expression "7 < Ri + R2 < 8" means that the sum of the carbon atoms of Ri and R2 is from 7 to 8. Similarly, the expression "8 < Ri + R2 < 10" means that the sum of the carbon atoms of Ri and R2 is from 8 to 10.
[0078] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one volatile ester oil, in particular chosen from linear or branched C8-C16 esters, more particularly branched C8-C16 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0079] According to another particular embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from C8-C16 volatile ether oils and their mixtures. In particular, the volatile ether oils may be chosen from:
[0080] - ethers of formula (II):
[0081] [Chem.2] R3-O-R4 (II)
[0082] in which
[0083] R3 and R4 are identical or different and represent a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, provided that:
[0084] - when R3 and R4 are linear, they each contain from 1 to 10 carbon atoms with 10 < R3 + R < 11 ; and
[0085] - when R3 and / or R4 are branched, they each contain from 1 to 12 atoms of carbon with 10 < R3 + R < 13 or 12 < R3 + R < 13; and
[0086] - their mixtures.
[0087] The expression "10 < R3 + R < 11" means that the sum of the carbon atoms of R3 and R4 is from 10 to 11. Similarly, the expression "10 < R3 + R < 13" means that the sum of the carbon atoms of R3 and R4 is from 10 to 13. Similarly, the expression "12 < R3 + R < 13" means that the sum of the carbon atoms of R3 and R is from 12 to 13.
[0088] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one volatile ether oil, in particular chosen from volatile C8-Ci6 ethers, more particularly linear or branched C10-Ci3 esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0089] Among the volatile ethers, we can cite:
[0090] - linear Cio or Cn ethers,
[0091] - saturated and branched Cio or Cn ethers, and
[0092] - branched C12 or C13 ethers.
[0093] According to another particular embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from volatile C8-C16 carbonic acid ester oils and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile carbonic acid ester oils may be chosen from:
[0094] - carbonic acid esters of formula (III):
[0095] [Chem.3] Rs-O-CO-O-Re (III)
[0096] in which
[0097] R5 and R6 are identical or different and represent a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, provided that:
[0098] - when R5 and R6 are linear, they each contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms with 7 < R5 + R6 < 9 ; and
[0099] - when R5 and / or R6 are branched, they each contain from 1 to 8 carbon atoms with 7 < R5 + R6 < 9 ; and
[0100] - their mixtures.
[0101] The expression “7 < R5 + R6 < 9” means that the sum of the carbon atoms of R5 and R6 goes from 7 to 9.
[0102] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one volatile carbonic acid ester oil, in particular chosen from volatile C8-Ci6 carbonic acid esters, more particularly linear or branched C8-Ci0 carbonic acid esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] Among the volatile carbonic acid ester oils, we can cite:
[0104] - linear or branched C8 carbonic acid esters, and
[0105] - C9 branched carbonic acid esters.
[0106] According to another particular embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from C8-C16 ketone volatile oils and mixtures thereof. In particular, the ketone volatile oils may be chosen from:
[0107] - ketones of formula (IV):
[0108] [Chem.4] R8-CO-R9 (IV)
[0109] in which
[0110] R8 and R9 are identical or different and represent a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, provided that:
[0111] - when R8 and R9 are linear, they each contain from 1 to 8 carbon atoms with 8 < R8 + R9 < 9 ; and
[0112] - when R8 and / or R9 are branched, they each contain from 1 to 10 atoms of carbon with 9 < R8 + R9 < 11; and
[0113] - their mixture s.
[0114] The expression "8 < R8 + R9 < 9" means that the sum of the carbon atoms of R8 and R9 is from 8 to 9. Similarly, the expression "9 < R8 + R9 < 11" means that the sum of the carbon atoms of R8 and R9 is from 9 to 11.
[0115] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one volatile ketone oil, in particular chosen from volatile C8-Ci6 ketones, more particularly linear or branched C9-Ci2 ketones, and mixtures thereof.
[0116] Among the volatile ketone oils, we can cite:
[0117] - ketones, linear or branched, in C9 or Cio, and
[0118] - branched ketones in Cn or Ci2.
[0119] According to another particular embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from C8-C16 aldehyde volatile oils and mixtures thereof. In particular, the aldehyde volatile oils may be chosen from:
[0120] - aldehydes of formula (V):
[0121] [Chem.5] R10COH (V)
[0122] in which
[0123] Rio represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, provided that:
[0124] - when R10 is linear, it contains 7 or 8 carbon atoms; and
[0125] - when R10 is branched, it contains 8 or 10 carbon atoms; and
[0126] - their mixtures.
[0127] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one volatile aldehyde oil, in particular chosen from volatile C8-C16 aldehydes, more particularly linear or branched C8-C16 aldehydes, and mixtures thereof.
[0128] Among the volatile aldehydes, we can cite:
[0129] - linear C8 or C9 aldehydes, and
[0130] - branched C9 or Cn aldehydes.
[0131] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight of volatile compound(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0132] In the context of the invention, the aforementioned ingredients, namely silica and the volatile compound(s), are formulated in an emulsion and are combined therein with at least one specific surfactant making it possible, on the one hand, to guarantee stability without, on the other hand, harming the qualities provided by the silica and the volatile compound(s), namely rapid volatility at the time of application followed by the formation of a deposit after drying, providing a feeling of comfort and a perception of powderiness. Surfactant(s) (c)
[0133] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant (c) comprising at least one C2-CM hydrocarbon chain, in particular linear or branched and more preferably linear. Alkyl(poly)glycosides
[0134] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant (c) chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides comprising at least one C2-Ci4 hydrocarbon chain, and mixtures thereof.
[0135] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “alkyl(poly)glycoside” means an alkyl-monooside (degree of polymerization equal to 1) or alkylpolyoside (degree of polymerization greater than 1), and their derivatives such as anionic derivatives of alkyl(poly)glycoside.
[0136] In particular, the alkyl(poly)glycosides of formula (VI):
[0137] [Chem.6] RO-(G) a (VI)
[0138] in which
[0139] - the radical R denotes a linear or branched C2-Ci4 alkyl radical, preferably radical R is C8-Ci3, more preferably C8-Ci2, in particular C10-Ci2, for example C10;
[0140] - group G is a saccharide residue; and
[0141] - a, being the degree of polymerization, is a number ranging from 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 5, especially 1 to 3.
[0142] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the radical R denotes a linear C8-Ci4 alkyl radical, preferably C8-Ci2, more preferably C10-Ci2.
[0143] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the saccharide residue G may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose or starch. More preferably, the saccharide residue G denotes at least one glucose unit. In particular, each unit of the (poly)oside part of the alkyl(poly)glycoside may be in isometric form α or [3, in L or D form and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type. The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of a in formula (VI), can range from 1 to 3. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5, and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.
[0144] It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkyl(poly)osides, each alkyl(poly)osides being capable of differing from one another by the nature of the alkyl unit carried and / or the nature of the carrying polysaccharide chain.
[0145] Examples of alkyl(poly)glycosides include:
[0146] - decyl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by BASF or the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by SEPPIC;
[0147] - caprylyl / capryl glucoside as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by the company SEPPIC;
[0148] - laurylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by BASF or Plantaren 1200 N® by BASF;
[0149] - cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by BASF;
[0150] - methyl coco glucoside marketed under the name Eumulgin GTS by the Cognis company; and
[0151] - caprylylglucoside as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis.
[0152] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises decyl glucoside (INCI name: DECYL GLUCOSIDE), in particular the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE® 2000 UP by the company BASF.
[0153] The alkyl(poly)glycoside can also be used in a mixture with at least one fatty alcohol, in particular a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and more particularly a C12-C22 fatty alcohol.
[0154] By C8-C30 fatty alcohol is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH.
[0155] Preferably, the fatty alcohols are R-OH structures with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 30, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0156] The fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, lauryl or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristyl or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol), stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol), and myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol).
[0157] For example, it is possible to jointly use a fatty alcohol and an alkyl(poly)glycoside whose alkyl part is identical to that of the fatty alcohol selected. The fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside emulsifying mixtures as defined above are known as such. They are described in particular in applications WO 92 / 06778, WO 95 / 13863 and WO 98 / 47610 and prepared according to the preparation processes indicated in these documents. Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside mixtures, mention may be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names MONTANOV® such as the following mixtures:
[0158] - Cetylstearyl alcohol / Cocoglucoside- MONTANOV 82®;
[0159] - Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidylglucoside - MONTANOV 802 ® •
[0160] - Myristyl alcohol / Myristylglucoside - MONTANOV 14®; And
[0161] - Cocoalcool / Coco-glucoside - MONTANOV S®.
[0162] As alkyl(poly)glycosides, mention may also be made of anionic derivatives of alkyl(poly)glycoside, such as citrates, tartrates, sulfosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers manufactured from alkyl(poly)glycosides, such as the sodium salt of cocoyl polyglucoside tartaric ester marketed under the name EUCAROL AGE-ET® by the company Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of sulfo- succinic acid of cocoyl polyglucoside marketed under the name ESSAI 512 MP® by the company Seppic, the sodium salt of citric ester of cocoyl polyglucoside marketed under the name EUCAROL AGE-EC® by the company Cesalpinia, the sodium lauryl polyglucoside ether carboxylate marketed under the name PLANTAPON LGC SORB by the company Cognis. Acylamino acids
[0163] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant (c) chosen from acylamino acids comprising at least one C2-Ci4 hydrocarbon chain and mixtures thereof, in particular alkali metal salts of N-acylamino acids comprising at least one C2-Ci4 hydrocarbon chain and mixtures thereof.
[0164] The alkali salts are, for example, sodium salts, potassium salts and lithium salts, and preferably sodium salts.
[0165] As alkali salts of N-acylamino acids, we can cite for example:
[0166] - Glycinates, such as sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS-12®, sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCK-12®.
[0167] - Glutamates, in other words the alkali salts of N-acylglutamic acids, of preferably the alkali salts of acyl (C6-Ci4) glutamic acids. Mention may in particular be made of the alkali salts of lauroyl glutamic acid or cocoyl glutamic acid, such as, for example, disodium cocoyl glutamate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft ECS-22SB, sodium lauroyl glutamate (INCI name: SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE) marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the name AMISOFT® LS 11, sodium and disodium stearoyl glutamate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the names AMISOFT® HS21 P and AMISOFT® HS 11 Pf.
[0168] - Sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate marketed by Seppic company under the name ORAMIX L 30® or marketed under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by Ciba company, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate marketed by ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ company under the name Protelan LS 9011 / C, and sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by Nikkol company.
[0169] - Alaninates such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, com marketed under the name SODIUM NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30® by the company Nikkol or marketed under the name ALANONE ALE®, by the company Kawaken, and N-lauroyl N-methylalanine triethanolamine, marketed under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken.
[0170] - Aspartates such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroylaspartate and N- triethanolamine myristoylaspartate, marketed under the name ASPARACK ® by the Mitsubishi company.
[0171] Mention may also be made of the sodium salt of oat lauroyl amino acids such as Proteol OAT marketed by the company Seppic or the compound bearing the INCI name sodium cocoyl amino acids such as Proteol SAV 5OS from Seppic. Geminal surfactants
[0172] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant (c) chosen from geminal surfactants and their mixtures.
[0173] By "geminal surfactant" is meant a surfactant comprising at least two hydrophilic heads linked together by a spacer, and at least two hydrophobic tails, each hydrophobic tail being linked to a hydrophilic head. The spacer may be polar or apolar, flexible or rigid, short or long. The hydrophilic heads may be anionic, cationic or non-ionic. In particular, the geminal surfactant comprises two hydrophilic heads linked together by a spacer, and two hydrophobic tails.
[0174] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the geminic surfactant is chosen from the compounds of formula (VII) and their mixtures, as well as their stereoisomers:
[0175] [Chem.7] y (CH* CH3(CHJt -CONH -ÇH |~O CH~~Y" NH CH3(CHg)|-COHH -CH Y' (VII)
[0176] in which:
[0177] - Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group, such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group;
[0178] - jl, kl, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (jl, kl, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and
[0179] -1 represents an integer ranging from 4 to 12, preferably from 6 to 12, and advantageous way from 8 to 12.
[0180] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (VII), 1 represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12, j 1 = j2 = 0, and kl = k2 = 2.
[0181] Preferably, in formula (VII), Y' represents -COONa, jl = j2 = 0, kl = k2 = 2; and 1 = 10.
[0182] As examples of geminal surfactants of formula (VII), mention may be made of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (INCI Name: SODIUM DILAURAMIDO-GLUTAMIDE LYSINE), and sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine. In particular, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is used. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is, for example, marketed by the company ASAHI KASEI under the names PELLICER™ L-30, PELLICER™ LB-30G and PELLICER™ LB-10.
[0183] The geminal surfactant(s) of formula (VII) is (are) described in particular in application WO 2004 / 020394.
[0184] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the geminic surfactant is chosen from the compounds of formula (VIII), and their mixtures, as well as their stereoisomers:
[0185] [Chem. 8] V (vni)
[0186] in which:
[0187] - Rn and Rio denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 14 carbon atoms;
[0188] - Ru denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 14 carbon atoms;
[0189] - X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6 O)bZ where Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M represents H or an alkali or alkaline-earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, a ranges from 0 to 7, b ranges from 0 to 4, and the sum of 2a + 3b being less than or equal to 14; and
[0190] - n ranges from 1 to 10.
[0191] The geminate surfactant of formula (VIII) is preferably such that each of the groups R12-CO- and R10-CO- comprises from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a residue of coconut fatty acids (comprising mainly lauric acid and myristic acid).
[0192] Furthermore, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 1 to 11 and a preferred group for Z is the group -SO3M where M is preferably an alkali ion such as a sodium ion.
[0193] The spacer Rn is advantageously made up of a linear C1-C3 alkylene chain, and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2).
[0194] Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.
[0195] A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name Sodium di-cocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure:
[0196] [Chem.9] O It AREG-15>”~SO3Nft cpcoy—G—N I -CIL —C •—{PEG-l 5)—SOjRa O
[0197] it being understood that PEG represents the group -CH2CH2O-, and cocoyl represents the residue of coconut fatty acids.
[0198] This surfactant has a molecular structure very close to that of ceramide-3.
[0199] Preferably, the geminate surfactant of formula (VIII) is used in a mixture with other surfactants, and in particular in a mixture with an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably a C14-C20 such as a stearate) and glyceryl, a diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably a C14-C20 such as a stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (in particular a diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl monocitrate), and a C10-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).
[0200] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl monocitrate stearate and behenyl alcohol.
[0201] For example, the geminate surfactant of formula (VIII) can be used in a mixture with other surfactants in the form of products marketed by the company SASOL under the names CERALUTION®, and in particular the following products:
[0202] - Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate,
[0203] - Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate,
[0204] - Ceralution® ES: Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate and Ceteareth- 25, or
[0205] - Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabia, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names).
[0206] According to a particular embodiment, the surfactant (c) is chosen from:
[0207] (i) alkyl(poly)glycosides, in particular alkyl(poly)glycosides of formula (VI):
[0208] [Chem. 10] RO-(G) a (VI)
[0209] in which
[0210] - the radical R denotes a linear or branched C2-Ci4 alkyl radical, preferably radical R is C8-Ci3, more preferably C8-Ci2, in particular C10-Ci2, for example C10;
[0211] - group G is a saccharide residue; and
[0212] - a, being the degree of polymerization, is a number ranging from 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 5, especially 1 to 3;
[0213] (ii) acylamino acids, in particular alkali salts of N-acylamino acids, more particularly glutamates, such as sodium lauroyl glutamate;
[0214] (iii) geminal surfactants, in particular geminal surfactants of formula (VII) as well as their stereoisomers:
[0215] [Chem. 11] Y' (ÇHaht CHg(CHg)f -CONH -CH CH — Y' NH CH3(CHs)|- CONH 'ÇH Y> (VII)
[0216] in which:
[0217] - Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group, such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group;
[0218] - jl, kl, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j 1, kl, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and
[0219] -1 represents an integer ranging from 4 to 12, preferably from 6 to 12, and advantageous way from 8 to 12; and
[0220] (iv) their mixtures.
[0221] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 6% by weight of surfactant(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0222] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 6% by weight of surfactant(s) (c), including at least the compound with INCI name: SODIUM DILAURAMIDOGLUTAMIDE LYSINE, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0223] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone surfactants. By "silicone surfactant" is meant a surfactant which comprises at least one (-Si-O-) group.
[0224] It is noted that one or more surfactants (c) comprising at least one C2-Ci4 hydrocarbon chain may be present in the composition, with other distinct additional surfactants whose presence does not alter the aforementioned advantageous properties, in particular in terms of stability, sensation of comfort and perception of powderiness. Additional surfactant(s)
[0225] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional surfactant distinct from the surfactant(s) (c) comprising at least one C2-C14 hydrocarbon chain.
[0226] An additional surfactant is chosen, for example, from nonionic surfactants and their mixtures.
[0227] The nonionic surfactant(s) may include one or more of the following: peg-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, and a combination thereof. The nonionic surfactant may be, for example, selected from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, and fatty acid esters, wherein these compounds are ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated and comprise at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. The number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups of the foregoing compounds may vary from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups may vary from 1 to 30.Mention may be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide. ; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono- or diesters of glycerol, C15-C24 alkyl(poly)glycosides; C15-C24 N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as C15 alkylamine oxides or N-(C15 acylaminopropylmorpholine) oxides; and mixtures thereof.
[0228] The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more preferably oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
[0229] In certain cases, the non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing for example from 15 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 15 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of one or more C15-C24, preferably C15-C22, fatty acids, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of one or more C15-C24, preferably C15-C22, fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100;sorbitol esters of one or more C15-C24, preferably C15-C22, fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of one or more C15-C24, preferably C15-C22, fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of one or more C15-C24, preferably C15-C22, fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof. ;
[0230] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include esters of ethylene oxide with esters of palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups - such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (under the CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and their mixtures. Examples of glyceryl esters of fatty acids include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof. Examples of glyceryl esters of C15-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids include polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (INCI name: PEG-20 STEARATE) marketed under the name MYRJ™ S20 by Croda Home Care. Mixtures of these surfactants, such as the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate (INCI name: GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE), marketed under the name ARLACEL™ 165 by Croda Inc., and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), may also be used. Aqueous phase
[0231] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one physiologically acceptable aqueous phase. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials.
[0232] The composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The aqueous phase is the continuous phase.
[0233] A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent.
[0234] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols such as C1-C30, C1-C15, C1-C10 or C1-C4 alcohols and for example the C1-C5 monoalcohols described above, organic solvents such as polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (for example, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.) and a mixture thereof.
[0235] As examples of organic solvents, non-limiting mentions may be made of monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. The water-soluble solvents may be organic solvents which may be volatile compounds as described above or non-volatile.
[0236] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanediols such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether dipropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfone and mixtures thereof. ;
[0237] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 70% by weight of aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0238] It is also noted that the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise water-soluble additives such as water-soluble gelling agents. Gelling agent(s)
[0239] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one gelling agent. Such a gelling agent may be a rheology modifying and / or stabilizing polymer. In other words, the gelling agent contributes in particular to obtaining a desired consistency of a composition according to the invention. Of course, such an optional addition of gelling agent is carried out without altering the aforementioned advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention, in particular in terms of stability, sensation of comfort and perception of powderiness.
[0240] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent, for example synthetic or natural.
[0241] By "water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer" is meant polymers which, for example, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, allow the production of a macroscopically homogeneous solution and transparent, in particular having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%, preferably at least 70%.
[0242] The hydrophilic gelling agent (or thickener) may in particular be chosen from:
[0243] 1) carhoxwimliaues polymers
[0244] Carboxyvinyl polymers may or may not be modified.
[0245] Among the carboxyvinyl polymers, we can cite those marketed under the following names:
[0246] - Carbopol® from the Goodrich company or SYNTHALEN® K (INCI name: carbomer) of the company 3V Sigma USA Inc.;
[0247] - Pemulen™ from Goodrich or CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 21 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) from the company Lubrizol;
[0248] - AQUPEC MG N40R (INCI name: Sodium Carbomer) from SUMITOMO company SEIKA;
[0249] - ACULYN™ 88 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) from Dow Chemical Company;
[0250] - ACULYN™ 28 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) from Dow Chemical Company;
[0251] - ARISTOFLEX® Velvet from Clariant (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11).
[0252] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one carboxyvinyl polymer chosen from a carbomer (INCI name: carbomer), for example SYNTHALEN® K from the company 3V Sigma USA Inc., the compound with the INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, for example CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 21 POLYMER from Lubrizol, and mixtures thereof.
[0253] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 10%, in particular from 0.02% to 8%, more particularly from 0.05% to 5% of carboxyvinyl polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0254] Carboxyvinyl polymers may also be polyacrylate salts. In particular, they are crosslinked and neutralized polymers, in non-particulate form.
[0255] Mention may also be made of polymers bearing the INCI name sodium polyacrylate such as Cosmedia SP® or crosslinked sodium polyacrylate containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, Cosmedia SPL® or sodium polyacrylate in inverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry active matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company BASF.
[0256] 2) polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS}. in particular homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked comprising at least the monomer acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), in particular in a form partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base other than ammonia such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
[0257] These AMPS polymers can be completely neutralized or practically completely neutralized, i.e. neutralized to at least 90%.
[0258] These AMPS polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
[0259] The AMPS polymers suitable for the invention are hydrophilic, i.e. water-soluble or water-dispersible. They may be:
[0260] - either “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;
[0261] - either copolymers obtained from AMPS and one or more monomers for example ethylenically unsaturated, hydrophilic or hydrophobic, and, if crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined below. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, they are preferably present in small amounts.
[0262] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.
[0263] As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE or AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE) such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant.
[0264] As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, we may cite for example:
[0265] - crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers of sodium such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: POLYACRYLAMIDE / C13-C14 ISOPARAFFIN / LAURETH-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / ISO-HEXADECANE / POLYSORBATE-80) by the company SEPPIC;
[0266] - copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by the company CLARIANT (CTFA name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIME- THYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER) but neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;
[0267] - copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, such as for example co AMPS / sodium acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);
[0268] - copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example co AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIME-THYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (AND) SQUALANE (AND) POLYSORBATE 60) or as the product marketed under the name COPOLYMER ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL PROPANE SULFONATE DE SODIUM / HY-DROXYETHYLACRYLATE such as the commercial product SEPINOV EMT 10 (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);
[0269] - copolymers of AMPS® and ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate, even actually crosslinked, such as Aristoflex® HMS, which is called AMPS / ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate (25 EO) 80 / 20 copolymer, crosslinked by trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer in the INCI name.
[0270] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), in particular chosen from crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMETHYL-TAURAMIDE or AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE), more particularly the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant.
[0271] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 10%, in particular from 0.02% to 8%, more particularly from 0.05% to 5% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase
[0272] An “oil phase” is a phase comprising at least one oil which may include additional fat-soluble and lipophilic ingredients, and fatty substances.
[0273] The oils included in the oily phase may be volatile, such as the volatile oils described above, or non-volatile.
[0274] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or fiber ke- ratineuse, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0275] The composition according to the invention may contain non-volatile oils but these must of course not impact the desired properties, in particular in terms of stability, sensation of comfort and perception of powderiness. Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
[0276] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
[0277] For example, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil, and / or a synthetic oil.
[0278] Examples include non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as:
[0279] (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triesters of glycerides, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, rice bran, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, Limanthes alba seeds (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil); or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel.We can also cite coco-caprylate / caprate, for example marketed under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois; .
[0280] (ii) synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0281] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;
[0282] (iv) synthetic esters, for example oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain which is in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R+R' is > 10, for example Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, palmitate isopropyl, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product marketed under the name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the product marketed under the name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, dii-isopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;citrates or tartrates, such as di(C12-C13 linear alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also di(C14-C15 linear alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; or acetates; ;
[0283] (v) fatty alcohols, containing a linear or branched carbon chain and which may be saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol (INCI name: STEARYL ALCOHOL), isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, cis 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, myricyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof ;
[0284] (vi) higher fatty acids C19-C22;
[0285] (vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; and
[0286] (viii) fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® from Ajinomoto; and
[0287] (iv) their mixture.
[0288] According to a particular embodiment, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-silicone oils, such as the aforementioned volatile hydrocarbon oils, the aforementioned non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and mixtures thereof.
[0289] The term “non-silicone oil” means an oil not comprising a silicon atom, and in particular a Si-O group.
[0290] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.0% by weight, in particular less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly free of silicone oil(s).
[0291] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight of oily phase relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition
[0292] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.
[0293] It can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste.
[0294] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. This may be the skin of the face and / or the body, in particular the face and / or the neck and / or the hands.
[0295] The composition according to the invention may comprise all the constituents usually used in the application and topical administration envisaged.
[0296] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed after application. Cosmetic active ingredients and adjuvants
[0297] The compositions according to the present invention may of course contain one or more active ingredients and adjuvants chosen in particular from cosmetic active ingredients, in particular active ingredients for the skin, sunscreens, colorants, pearlescent agents, pigments, perfumes, preservatives, pH adjusters, film-forming agents, fillers additional to hydrophilic silica, iron oxide, etc. Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0298] For example, a composition according to the invention may comprise one or more preservatives, one or more pH correctors (for example, sodium and / or potassium hydroxide), one or more perfumes, one or more salts, one or more colorants and / or dyes, one or more preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin).
[0299] Non-limiting examples of skin active ingredients include anti-aging agents, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, agents for treating oily skin, mattifying agents, antioxidants, vitamins, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory agents and electrolytes. Uses and methods
[0300] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection, and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.
[0301] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratin material.
[0302] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.
[0303] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by administering topically a composition according to the invention.
[0304] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques of use of these compositions.
[0305] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention, which can be for example formulated in the form of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste.
[0306] According to one embodiment, the application is repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over one day or more and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.
[0307] According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.
[0308] According to an alternative embodiment, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin previously cleaned using a washing solution.
[0309] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.
[0310] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.
[0311] In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are expressed in % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples MATERIALS AND METHODS Raw materials
[0312] In the examples below the compounds are identified by their INCI name:
[0313] “SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE” is marketed under the name AMISOFT® LS 11 installation by Ajinomoto company;
[0314] “DECYL GLUCOSIDE” is marketed under the name PLANTACARE® 2000 UP by BASF (at 53% by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of raw material);
[0315] “SODIUM DILAURAMIDOGLUTAMIDE LYSINE” is marketed under the name PELLICER™ LB-30G by the company ASAHI KASEI (at 27.3% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of raw material);
[0316] “GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE” is marketed under the name ARLACEL™ 165 by Croda Inc.;
[0317] “PEG-20 STEARATE” is marketed under the name MYRJ™ S20 by the company Croda Home Care;
[0318] “C9-12 ALKANE” is marketed under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK 100 by the company BIOSYNTHIS;
[0319] “CARBOMER” is marketed under the name SYNTHALEN® K by the company 3V Sigma USA Inc.;
[0320] “AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE” is marketed under the name HOSTACERIN® AMPS by the company Clariant;
[0321] “ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER” is com marketed under the name CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 21 POLYMER by the company Lubrizol;
[0322] “SILICA” is marketed under the name SOLESPHERE™ H51 by the company AGC Chemicals Americas or SUNSPHERE® H51 by the company Asahi Glass AGC Group;
[0323] “LAUROYL LYSINE” is marketed under the name AMIHOPE ® LL by the company Ajinomoto; and
[0324] “SILICA (and) TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN” is marketed under the name SUNSIL-SILK by the company Sunjin Beauty Science. Stability measurement protocol
[0325] The stability of all the compositions is assessed after their preparation and for one of them, in addition, after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.
[0326] The properties evaluated are:
[0327] - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter;
[0328] - the viscosity of the composition, measured using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM 100 PLUS from Lamy Rheology (equipped with a thermostatic bath), according to method CID-012-02, in particular for 10 min;
[0329] - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by ob Observation of the composition under an optical microscope in unpolarized light between slide and coverslip, at X10 magnification;
[0330] - the color and odor of the composition;
[0331] - a phenomenon of macroscopic destabilization of the composition which can be ma materialize by the appearance of creaming, coalescence, sedimentation and / or flocculation, by the formation of a surface film and / or marbling, phase shift, etc.
[0332] The evaluation of the above-mentioned properties is always carried out at 25°C, regardless of whether or not the compositions to be tested have been exposed to prolonged storage conditions and / or at a temperature other than 25°C.
[0333] A composition is considered stable after preparation when no macroscopic destabilization phenomenon, in particular phase shift, is observed.
[0334] A composition is considered to remain stable when its properties, after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C or 45°C, remain close to those characterized immediately after preparation. In particular, if the composition remains thick, flexible and homogeneous, without destabilization phenomena and without significant changes in pH, viscosity, color and odor, it is considered to be stable. Sensoriality evaluation protocol
[0335] The technical effects relating to sensoriality after application of the compositions, in particular with regard to the feeling of comfort and the powdery effect, were highlighted via the following protocol carried out by five evaluators:
[0336] - application of a defined quantity of a composition, corresponding to 0.2 g, on the back of the hand;
[0337] - spreading the composition in a circular and uniform manner on the back of the hand by completing 15 laps in 15 seconds; and
[0338] - evaluation of comfort and powdered effect at 2 min 30 after application of the com position.
[0339] Example 1 - Preparation of compositions according to the invention and comparative
[0340] Six compositions according to the invention (II, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16) distinguished respectively either by the quantity of hydrophilic silica, or by the chemical nature of the surfactant (d), or by the quantity of the surfactant (d) considered, and three compositions outside the invention (Cl, C2 and C3) devoid of surfactant (d), were prepared according to the preparation protocol described below with the nature of the ingredients and their respective quantities given in table 1. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Process for preparing the compositions
[0341] In a Raynerie mixer equipped with a rotor / stator and deflocculator, the components of phase A are mixed followed by the addition of boiling water to the mixture obtained.
[0342] The components of phase B1 are heated to 75-85 °C (melting of the fats). The mixture obtained is added to phase A with rotor / stator stirring (1300 rpm) without heating. The mixture obtained is cooled to a temperature in below 55°C followed by the addition of phase B2 with stirring by rotor / stator. The emulsion obtained is checked under a microscope after 10 minutes. The components of phase C are added to the emulsion with stirring by the deflocculator. The mixture obtained is cooled to a temperature below 30°C followed by the addition of phase E with stirring by the deflocculator with stirring by rotor / stator. The emulsion obtained is checked again under a microscope after 10-15 minutes. The components of phase D are added in portions to the emulsion cooled by an ice bath and with stirring by the deflocculator. Phase F is added to the mixture with stirring by the deflocculator so that the temperature remains below 30°C.
[0343] [Tables 1] what's the inchue? II 13 13 14 15 16 Cl Cl C3 TO WATER Qv 1® 100 100 Qsp 100 Qï? 100 Qsp 100 Q^p 1® ggw 1® A GLYCERIN 7,130 7.00 7.00 5.98 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 A PRESERVATORS RA 09? 0.97 0.97 0.97 0.97 0.97 0.97 0.97 A SODIUM LÀURGVL GLUTAMATE - - 2M - - - - - - A DECYL GLUCQSIDE V®: 3.79 - -■ 5.00 3.70 - - A ANTI-AGE ACTIVES 2.54 254 254 254 254 2.54 2.54 2.54 2.54 A CHELATANT 110 RW RW 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 RIO 0.10 A GLYCOL 3.00 3.00 3.90 2.90 3.00 3.00 3.30 3.00 3.00 A SODIUM DnÀtRAMIDO-GLÙTAMIDE FACTORY - - - 2.92 - OJS - 31 GLY€±m STEARATE .(aad) PEG-a!Ij STEARATE i;A 1.70 1.70 1.69 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.70 2.50 31 FOOT-2U STEARATE 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 2.10 B! WATER-WATER ACTIVE 310 RIO 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 31 SONOF YL ITONONANOATE 150 250 250 249 250 L 2.50 ES 2.50 2.50 BTH ALBA SFEOŒ 2.00 100 2.00 1.99 2.00 2.00 2.80 2.00 2.50 31 P'ENTAERYTHRIT'X TEm-Dl-T-BU^iLHu>ROX¥- K'DRGCINNAYLATE 70,70,0,0 0.07 0.0? 0.07 0.07 B! DICAPPALYL CARBONATE 3.50 3.50 5.50 5.49 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 31 STE A3 il ALCOHOL HEXACAPR DEPARTMENT DEPARTMENT.il. ATB HEXAC^PATE 1.30 1,30 l^Ô 1,30 •1,30 1,30 1,30 1,30 1,30 31 EIS-BEHEN FL ISOSTEAPYL PHYTÙSTEPA1 DVVER DIUNOLEi,5TDTÆR70 DILIN 1.49 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 31 Oct1Decennial 235 08? 0.85 3.99 0.85 0.85 0.35 0.35 0.35 32 »12 ALKANE W0 10.00 IO0Ô 16.00 1« 10.00 IMS C CARBOMER - - - OYAKO .0.08 ACROK - DIMETHYL.TAURATE 03g 0.50 0.38 0.88 0.38 0.38 238 C ACRYLATESICIÜ-A) ALKIL ACRYLATE CROSSPO11MER - - - 0.10 0.08 1.00 - - 1.00 D SILICA 10.00 15.00 20.00 23.00 25.00 22.00 1« 15.00 22.00 D LAUROYL LYSINE 10.00 - - - - - 10.00 - - D SILICA (agi} TRIE YDRQX V-SIEARK - 5.00 - - - - - 5.00 - !P POTASSIUM HYDROEDE 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 F ALCOSDLDENÀT, 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 LOS L® LOS - Observafea after pregarafeat No. phase shift*. * desaeæe stracteéBssiÉSEt h-amegén-e
[0344] It is found that the six compositions II to 16 according to the invention are compliant in terms of stability after preparation, in particular no phase shift is observed, compared to the comparative compositions C1 to C3 and this although, for some of them, a significant quantity of hydrophilic silica is formulated therein.
[0345] The sensation of comfort and powdery effect was characterized upon application for compositions II to 16 according to the invention following the evaluation protocol described above. It is found that compositions II to 16 according to the invention are satisfactory in terms of comfort and powdery effect.
[0346] Example 2 - Characterization of the storage stability of a composition according to the invention of Example 1
[0347] The stability of the composition according to the invention 16 was evaluated after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C (Table 2).
[0348] [Tables2] 16 Appearance (at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C) Thick, soft and homogeneous Color (at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C) White Odor (at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C) Odorless Viscosity (Pa,s) 6.2 (at 4°C) 6.4 (at 25°C) 5.2 (at 45°C) pH (at 25°C and 45°C) 5.9 (at 4°C) 6.0 (at 25°C) 6.1 (at 45°C) Microscopic examination (XI0) in unpolarized light Clean edges, thin and tight emulsion
[0349] Composition 16 according to the invention proves to be satisfactory in terms of properties after two months and 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, particularly in terms of appearance, color, odor, viscosity, pH and microscopic characteristics. Composition 16 according to the invention therefore remains stable after two months and 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, more particularly under drastic conditions at two months and 45°C.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: (a) at least 7% by weight of a hydrophilic silica relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least 5% by weight of volatile compound(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, chosen from C1-C5 monoalcohols, C8-C16 hydrocarbon volatile oils, C8-C16 ester volatile oils, C8-C16 ether volatile oils, C8-C16 carbonic acid ester volatile oils, C8-C16 ketone volatile oils, C8-C16 aldehyde volatile oils, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one surfactant comprising at least one C2-C14 hydrocarbon chain.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said hydrophilic silica (a) is amorphous.
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein said hydrophilic silica (a) is chosen from silicas having an average particle diameter ranging from 1 pM to 30 pm, in particular from 1 pM to 25 pm, and more particularly from 1 pM to 20 pm.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 10% by weight, in particular at least 12% by weight, and more particularly 14% by weight of hydrophilic silica(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight of volatile compound(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one C1-C5 monoalcohol, and in particular ethanol.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one volatile C8-C16 hydrocarbon oil, in particular chosen from linear or branched C8-C16 alkanes, and more particularly linear or branched C9-C12 alkane oils.
8. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s). in C8-C16 relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one volatile ester oil, in particular chosen from linear or branched C8-Ci6 esters, more particularly branched C8-Ci6 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one volatile ether oil, in particular chosen from volatile C8-Ci6 ethers, more particularly linear or branched C10-Ci3 esters, mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said surfactant (c) being chosen from: (i) alkyl(poly)glycosides, in particular alkyl(poly)glycosides of formula (VI): RO-(G)a (VI) in which - the radical R denotes a linear or branched C2-Ci4 alkyl radical, preferably the radical R is C8-Ci3, more preferably C8-Ci2, in particular C10-C12, for example C10; - the group G is a saccharide residue; and - a, being the degree of polymerization, is a number ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5, in particular from 1 to 3; (ii) acylamino acids, in particular alkali metal salts of N-acylamino acids, more particularly glutamates, such as sodium lauroyl glutamate; (iii) geminal surfactants, in particular geminal surfactants of formula (VII) and their stereoisomers: T (CHah CHgCCHA -COHH ~ÇH ÇH—Y' (CH2)4 i NH ho (CH^ CHgCGH^i-COKH CH (C^W (VII) in which: - Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group, such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group; - j 1, kl, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j 1, kl, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and -1 represents an integer ranging from 4 to 12, preferably from 6 to 12, and advantageously from 8 to 12; and (iv) their mixtures.
12. A composition according to any preceding claim, comprising from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 6% by weight of surfactant(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. A composition according to any preceding claim comprising: - from 7% to 35% by weight of hydrophilic silica(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition; - from 5% to 35% by weight of volatile compounds (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil in C8-C16, in particular chosen from linear or branched C8-C16 alkane oils, and more particularly from linear or branched C9-C12 alkane oils; and - 0.05% to 10% by weight of surfactant(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides, acylamino acids, geminal surfactants and mixtures thereof.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 70% by weight of aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 1.0% by weight, in particular less than 0.5% by weight of silicone compound(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly free of silicone compound(s).
16. Process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims is applied to the keratin material.
17. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15, in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.
Citation Information
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