Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising ascorbic acid, at least one sunscreen, and gelled with natural polymers

Abstract

Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising ascorbic acid, at least one sunscreen, and gelled with natural polymers The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, a lipophilic sunscreen, a lipophilic surfactant with an HLB ranging from 2 to 5, a hydrophilic surfactant with an HLB ranging from 8 to 12, an anionic surfactant, a natural or naturally-derived gelling polymer, with said composition having a pH ranging from 5 to 7. It also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials comprising the application of such a composition, and the use of such a composition for regenerating and firming keratin materials, or for treating the appearance of brown spots on keratin materials. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising ascorbic acid, at least one sunscreen, and gelled with natural polymers Technical field

[0001] The present invention aims to provide compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, in particular for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least ascorbic acid, at least one sunscreen, at least one natural gelling polymer and stabilized over time and temperature. Prior art

[0002] It is known to introduce into cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions intended to be applied to the skin active ingredients in order to strengthen the protection of the skin against external aggressions such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, but also to slow down the appearance of signs of aging and / or to reduce them. In this respect, ascorbic acid, also called vitamin C, is particularly interesting as a skin regenerating active ingredient, because it stimulates the synthesis of collagen, responsible for the firmness of the skin. It is also known for its anti-oxidant properties and as a skin depigmenting active ingredient, because it reduces the production of melanin, responsible for the appearance of brown spots. This effectiveness of ascorbic acid is particularly reinforced when it is used at a content greater than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0003] It has also been found that these beneficial biological effects of ascorbic acid can be improved by combining it with one or more lipophilic sunscreens.

[0004] Given the lipophilic nature of the latter, it is necessary to solubilize them in cosmetic oils to formulate them and therefore to favor compositions of the oil-in-water emulsion type. However, the formulation of ascorbic acid in a content greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition is difficult to achieve in this type of emulsion, because it destabilizes and changes color drastically, possibly even turning brown, which is prohibitive for users.

[0005] A route for stabilizing solubilized vitamin C has been proposed, for example, in patent application FR3124388 A1, in an aqueous medium consisting of neutralizing it in the form of sodium ascorbate at pH 6 and associating a cationic polymer.

[0006] Nevertheless, this sodium ascorbate form induces, in the aqueous medium, a significant ionic force which disrupts the physicochemical balances and promotes rapid destabilization of O / W type emulsions.

[0007] One solution is to develop purely aqueous gel-type products, as described in patent application FR3124390 A1. However, lipophilic ingredients are not compatible with these aqueous gels for solubility reasons.

[0008] Another solution consists of integrating the active lipophilic ingredients associated with vitamin C through the addition of hydrotropes such as niacinamide as proposed in patent application FR3130595 A1, however this restricts the accessible galenic field in terms of appearance and sensoriality. Statement of the invention

[0009] In view of the above, there therefore remains a need for compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, of the oil-in-water emulsion type, containing ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives in a significant content and in a combined form with at least one lipophilic sunscreen which remain stable over time and / or at temperature.

[0010] The invention aims precisely to meet these needs. Summary of the invention

[0011] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising: - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one lipophilic sunscreen; - at least one lipophilic surfactant with HLB ranging from 2 to 5; - at least one hydrophilic surfactant with HLB ranging from 8 to 12; - at least one anionic surfactant; - at least one natural or naturally derived gelling polymer; and with said composition having a pH ranging from 5 to 7.

[0012] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 5.5 to 6.5 and in particular of the order of 6.

[0013] As illustrated in the examples below, the inventors have discovered that the joint implementation of a surfactant system as described above and at least one natural or naturally derived polymer makes it possible to obtain compositions compatible with the formulation of at least one lipophilic UV filter, a high content of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, and not subject to destabilization of the O / W emulsions.

[0014] Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the combined presence of at least one lipophilic surfactant with HLB ranging from 2 to 5, at least one hydrophilic surfactant with HLB ranging from 8 to 12, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one natural or naturally-derived gelling polymer makes it possible to obtain stable H / W emulsions.

[0015] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[0016] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for regenerating and firming keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0017] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for preventing and / or treating the appearance of brown spots on keratin materials, in particular on the skin. Detailed description

[0018] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

[0019] The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0020] By "cosmetic" is meant a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0021] By “keratin materials” is meant in particular the skin, mucous membranes, fibers, eyelashes and appendages.

[0022] By "the skin" is meant all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, scalp, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, hands, wrists and ankles, or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolleté and neck.

[0023] By "gelling polymer of natural origin" is meant polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents. In the following description the simplified expression natural polymer can be used to designate the two categories of polymer considered according to the invention, namely natural polymer and polymer of natural origin.

[0024] A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0025] As used herein, the terms "treat" and "treatment" are intended to mean the alleviation of symptoms associated with a specific disorder or condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms as well as the complete disappearance of the disorder or condition in question.

[0026] In the context of the present invention, the terms "prevent" and "prevention" designate the reduction to a lesser degree of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon. Ascorbic acid and derivatives

[0027] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, and / or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] In particular, ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 6 to 15% by weight, better still from 7 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] Ascorbic acid may be in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and its analogues chosen from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate, and glycosylated ascorbic acid.

[0030] As derivatives of ascorbic acid, mention may be made, in particular, of ose esters of ascorbic acid and metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.

[0031] The ose esters of ascorbic acid which can be used in the invention are in particular the glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated, N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and their mixtures and more especially ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-aD glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or even 6-O-[3-D-galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds as well as their preparation processes are in particular described in documents EP 487 404, EP 425 066 and JP05213736.

[0032] For its part, the metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid is chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

[0033] The suitable ascorbic acid derivatives according to the present invention may be chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate marketed under the reference PRO-AA by the company Exsymol, the potassium salt of DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate marketed under the reference Sepivital EPC by the company Senju Pharmaceutical, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate marketed under the reference Stay-C 50 by Roche and ascorbyl glucoside marketed by Hayashibara. Surfactant system

[0034] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises: a) at least one lipophilic surfactant whose HLB is between 2 and 5, b) at least one hydrophilic surfactant whose HLB is between 8 and 12, and c) at least one anionic surfactant.

[0035] For the purposes of the invention, the combination of the 3 types of surfactants a), b) and c) is also called “lamellar surfactant system”.

[0036] This surfactant system advantageously provides access to a highly stabilized oil-in-water emulsion architecture because it is formed of oily globules, each provided with a lamellar liquid crystal coating which are dispersed in the aqueous phase. More precisely, the small oily globules are coated with a monolayer and an extremely thin oligolamellar layer. An oligolamellar layer is understood to mean a layer comprising 2 to 5 lipid lamellae (a lipid lamella is understood to mean a lipid bilayer type membrane as described in the field of liposomes, for example).

[0037] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic surfactants, hydrophilic surfactants and anionic surfactants are present in a mass ratio of 53 / 27 / 20.

[0038] In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise a total content of lipophilic surfactant(s) whose HLB is between 2 and 5, of hydrophilic surfactant(s) whose HLB is between 8 and 12, and of anionic surfactant(s) ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 3 to 7% by weight, better still from 3.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. a. Lipophilic surfactant#

[0039] As mentioned previously, this lipophilic surfactant has an HLB parameter ranging from 2 to 5.

[0040] HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) means the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant.

[0041] The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

[0042] The lipophilic surfactants with HLB ranging from 2 to 5 can be chosen in particular from: • ethers of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohols, in particular saturated or unsaturated alcohols comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 26 carbon atoms such as oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and comprising from 1 to 50 oxyethylenated (OE) groups, preferably from 1 to 20 oxyethylenated groups, such as for example the compounds bearing the INCI name steareth 2, beheneth 2, oleth 2. These polyethylene glycol ethers can comprise from 1 to 10 fatty chains; polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, in particular saturated or unsaturated fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 26 carbon atoms such as oleic acid, stearic acid, and comprising from 1 to 50 oxyethylenated groups (EO), preferably from 1 to 20 oxyethylenated groups, such as polyethylene glycol monostearate (INCI name: PEG-2 stearate) These polyethylene glycol esters can consist of 1 to 10 fatty chains; ethers of polyethylene glycol and glycosylated fatty alcohols, in particular alcohols comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 26 carbon atoms, said ethers comprising from 1 to 10 oxyethylenated (EO) groups, preferably from 1 to 5 oxyethylenated groups and from 1 to 10 glycosylated groups; esters of polyethylene glycol and glycosylated fatty acids, in particular fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 26 carbon atoms and comprising from 1 to 5 glycosyl groups, said esters being able to comprise from 1 to 5 fatty chains, preferably from 1 to 5 oxyethylenated groups; oxyethylenated alcohol ethers comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and of glycerol or polyglycerol, said ethers comprising from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and said esters being able to comprise from 2 to 10 fatty chains and from 1 to 10 oxyethylenated groups; fatty acid esters comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 20 carbon atoms (such as stearic acid, behenic acid), and glycerol or polyglycerol, said esters comprising from 1 to 10 glycerol groups, such as for example diglyceryl distearate, tetraglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl decastearate, diglyceryl monostearate, hexaglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, ester of glycerol and palmitic and stearic acids, glyceryl mono and dibehenate; esters of sucrose and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 20 carbon atoms, said esters being able to comprise from 2 to 5 fatty chains, such as for example sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate; • esters of pentaerythritol and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, such as for example pentaerythritol tetrastearate; • esters of sorbitol and / or sorbitan and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms such as stearic acid, for example sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate; • polyethylene glycol and cholesterol ethers comprising from 1 to 10 oxyethylenated groups, such as choleth 3; • and their mixtures.

[0043] By ester is meant a mono or a polyester.

[0044] By way of illustration of these surfactants, mention may in particular be made of steareth 2, beheneth 2, oleth 2, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, diglyceryl distearate, tetraglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl decastearate, diglyceryl monostearate, hexaglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, diethylene glycol monostearate, glycerol ester of palmitic and stearic acids, polyoxyethylene 2 EO monostearate, glyceryl mono and dibehenate, pentaerythritol tetrastearate and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Preferably, as lipophilic surfactant with an HLB ranging from 2 to 5, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from mono, di or triesters of sucrose and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms such as stearic acid, in particular sucrose tristearate, sucrose distearate and mixtures thereof.

[0046] A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.5 to 8% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 3% by weight of lipophilic surfactant(s) whose HLB is between 2 and 5 relative to the total weight of the composition. a. Hydrophilic surfactant#

[0047] As mentioned previously, this surfactant has an HLB parameter ranging from 8 to 12.

[0048] The hydrophilic surfactants with HLB ranging from 8 to 12 may be, in particular, chosen from: - ethers of polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol and fatty alcohols, in particular alcohols comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms such as tridecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, said ether comprising in total from 2 to 30 oxyethylene (EO) and / or oxypropylene groups (OP), preferably from 1 to 20 oxyethylene groups and / or from 1 to 10 oxypropylene groups, such as for example compounds with the INCI name steareth-8, steareth-10, steareth-16, steareth-20, ceteth-10, laureth 4, laureth-3 (such as Remcopal 121 from CECA SA), trideceth 6 (such as Renex 36 from ICI Surfactant), ceteareth-5 (such as Volpo CS 5 from Croda), oleth-10 (such as Volpo N 10 from Croda), beneth-10 (such as Nikkol BB-10 from Nikkol), oleyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol ether comprising 4 or 5 EO groups (such as for example Remcopal 220 from CECA SA), polyoxypropylene (4 OP) / polyoxyethylene (1 EO) of cetyl alcohol (such as Nikkol PBC-31 from Nikkol), polyoxypropylene (4 OP) / polyoxyethylene (10 EO) ether of cetyl alcohol (such as Nikkol PBC-33 from Nikkol); esters of polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol and fatty acids, in particular fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 26 carbon atoms such as oleic acid, stearic acid, and comprising from 1 to 50 oxyethylenated groups (EO), preferably from 4 to 12 oxyethylenated groups, such as for example polyethylene glycol-8 monostearate, polyethylene glycol-10 monostearate, polyethylene glycol-12 distearate; ethers resulting from the reaction of a) polyethylene glycol and b) fatty acid esters (in particular C12-C30 acid, and preferably C12-C26) and oxyethylenated glucose (which may contain from 1 to 50 oxyethylenated groups, preferably from 4 to 10 oxyethylenated groups, and from 1 to 10 glycosylated groups), such as polyethylene glycol esters and esters of stearic acid and glucose such as polyoxyethylenated methyl glucose distearate (20 EO); alcohol ethers comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and glycerol or polyglycerol, said ethers comprising from 3 to 10 glycerol groups, such as for example polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether such as Chimexane NL from Chimex; fatty acid esters comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, and glycerol or polyglycerol, said esters comprising from 3 to 10 glycerol groups, such as for example hexaglyceryl monostearate, these glycerol or polyglycerol esters being able to comprise from 1 to 10 fatty chains; esters of sucrose or glucose and fatty acid comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 20 carbon atoms, for example the mixture of esters (mono and polyesters) of stearic acid and sucrose marketed by the company Croda under the reference Crodesta Fl 10 may be mentioned; - ethers of fatty alcohols comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and of sucrose or glucose, in particular ethers of fatty alcohols comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and of glucose, comprising in particular from 1 to 3 glucoside units, such as compounds bearing the INCI name C12-18 Alkyl Glucoside, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside (for example Montanov L from Seppic), cetearyl glucoside (such as for example that which is marketed in a mixture with cetearyl alcohol under the reference Montanov 68 from Seppic), myristyl glucoside (such as for example that which is marketed in a mixture with myristyl alcohol under the reference Montanov 14 from Seppic), cetearyl glucoside (such as Tegocare CG 90 from Evonik Goldschmidt); - sorbitol and / or sorbitan esters of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms such as lauric acid, for example sorbitan laurate such as Span 20 from the company Uniqema, sorbitol and / or sorbitan ethers such as ethoxylated beeswax and sorbitan ethers comprising from 5 to 25 EO groups such as for example Sorbeth-8 beeswax, Sorbeth-20 beeswax from the company GBW-125 Nikko Chemical; - fatty acid esters (in particular C12-C30 acid, and preferably C12-C20) and sorbitol and / or sorbitan ethers, oxyethylenated (which may comprise from 2 to 30 oxyethylenated groups), such as stearic acid and sorbitol and / or sorbitan esters comprising from 2 to 20 EO groups such as polysorbate-60, polysorbate-61, sorbeth 3 isosteratate, polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate 4 EO, polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate 20 EO; - polyethylene glycol and cholesterol ethers comprising from 5 to 40 oxyethylenated groups, such as for example Choleth-10 (such as Emalex CS-10 from Nihon Emulsion Company), Choleth-15 (such as Emalex CS-15 from Nihon Emulsion Company) or Choleth-20 (such as Emalex CS-20 from Nihon Emulsion); - esters of polyglycerol (and derivatives) and fatty acid, for example stearic acid, such as polyglyceryl methyl glucose 3 distearate; - and their mixtures.

[0049] Preferably, as hydrophilic surfactant with an HLB ranging from 8 to 12, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from fatty acid esters (in particular C12-C30 and preferably C12-C20 acid) and oxyethylenated sorbitol and / or sorbitan ethers (which may comprise from 2 to 30 oxyethylenated groups), such as stearic acid and sorbitol and / or sorbitan esters. comprising from 2 to 20 EO groups such as polysorbate-60, polysorbate-61, sorbeth 3 isosteratate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate 4 EO, polyoxyethylene sorbitan tristearate 20 EO, and polyglycerol (and derivatives) fatty acid esters, e.g., stearic acid, such as polyglyceryl methyl glucose 3 distearate and mixtures thereof.

[0050] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.3 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 2% by weight of hydrophilic surfactant(s) whose HLB parameter varies from 8 to 12 relative to the total weight of the composition. c) Anionic surfactant

[0051] Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, K1RK-OTHMER", volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of anionic surfactants (p. 347-377 of this reference).

[0052] The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, glutamates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C10-C30 fatty acids, in particular C16-C25 fatty acids, in particular metal stearates and behenates, alkali metal salts of cetylphosphate, mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, alkyl ether citrates, alkoxylated glucose alkenylsuccinates and alkoxylated methylglucose alkenylsuccinates, fatty esters of phosphoric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] As representatives of these anionic surfactants, the following may in particular be mentioned: - acylisethionates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms; - N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear, branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or cyclic group comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably the alkyl group is a methyl, - and their mixtures; in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0054] As N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, mention may be made of sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol; the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate marketed under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company NIKKO.

[0055] As mixed ester, the mixed ester of glycerol and the mixture of citric, lactic, linoleic and oleic acids (INCI name: Glyceryl citrate / lactate / linoleate / oleate) sold by Hills under the name Imwitor 375 may be mentioned; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (INCI name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by Huis under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by Hills under the name Imwitor 370; or the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by Danisco under the name Lactodan B 30 or Rylo LA30.

[0056] As alkaline salts of cetylphosphate, mention may in particular be made of potassium cetylphosphate. In particular, use may be made of the monopotassium salt of monocetyl phosphate (INCI name: potassium cetyl phosphate) sold under the name “Amphisol K” by the company DSM Nutritional products.

[0057] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof. They may in particular be surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function such as alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkylsulfoacetates, taurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a composition according to the invention contains at least one surfactant of acyl glutamic acid type or acyl glutamate salts.

[0059] As examples of acyl glutamates, mention may in particular be made of palmitoyl glutamic, stearoyl glutamic, behenoyl glutamic, olivoyl glutamic acids, and the salts of these acids, in particular the alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, the alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or the ammonium salts of said acids.

[0060] Examples that may be mentioned are compounds bearing the INCI name sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and their mixtures.

[0061] As acyl glutamic acid salts, mention may also be made of sodium stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium hydrogenated stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0062] Preferably, as anionic surfactant, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from acyl glutamates whose acyl group comprises from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from sodium stearoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0063] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least: - from 1 to 3% by weight relative to its total weight of lipophilic surfactant(s), in particular chosen from esters of sucrose and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular at least sucrose tristearate; - from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to its total weight of hydrophilic surfactant(s), in particular chosen from fatty acid esters and sorbitol and / or sorbitan ethers, and in particular at least polysorbate 61; and - from 0.3 to 1% by weight relative to its total weight of anionic surfactant(s), notably chosen from acyl glutamates, and in particular at least sodium stearoyl glutamate. Natural gelling polymer

[0065] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one natural or naturally-derived gelling polymer.

[0066] In particular, a composition according to the invention contains from 0.2 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 1.5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1% by weight of natural or naturally-derived gelling polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] This polymer acts as a gelling agent with respect to the aqueous phase of the emulsion according to the invention and as such contributes to the stabilization over time and temperature of this emulsion.

[0068] In particular, these gelling polymers may be particulate or non-particulate. More specifically, these gelling agents fall into the category of polysaccharides.

[0069] Generally speaking, polysaccharides can be distinguished into several categories.

[0070] Thus, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.

[0071] Similarly, they can be linear polysaccharides like pullulan or branched like gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed like starch.

[0072] The polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they are starchy or not.

[0073] More particularly, they are non-starchy.

[0074] Generally speaking, the non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and their derivatives or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0075] In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, hyaluronic acid, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, gums Tragacanth, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin,in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates and their mixtures.

[0076] These polysaccharides can be chemically modified, in particular by urea, urethane groups, or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation, alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications.

[0077] The derivatives obtained can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0078] Advantageously, the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] By way of illustration of gelling polymers which are particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of scleroglucan gums and xanthan gums, which are polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, carrageenans which are polysaccharides isolated from algae, guar and acacia gums which are galactomannans, i.e. non-ionic polysaccharides extracted from the albumen of legume seeds, carob gums which are extracted from the seeds of carob (Ceratonia siliqua) and gum arabic which are acid polysaccharides and alginate-based compounds.

[0080] More particularly, a composition according to the invention contains at least one natural or naturally-derived gelling polymer chosen from polysaccharides and in particular from scleroglucan gums and xanthan gums and mixtures thereof. Scleroglucan

[0081] Scleroglucan is a non-ionic branched homopolysaccharide, consisting of [3-D glucan units. Scleroglucan gum is produced by Sclerotium rolfsii. The molecules consist of a main linear chain formed of D-glucose units linked by [3(1,3) bonds and one out of three of which is linked to a side D-glucose unit by a [3(1,6) bond.

[0082] A more complete description of scleroglucans and their preparation can be found in US 3,301,848.

[0083] Scleroglucan gum is, for example, that sold under the name AMIGUM by the company ALBAN MULLER, or under the name ACTIGUM™ CS by the company Cargill (INCI name: SCLEROTIUM GUM).

[0084] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one scleroglucan gum. Xanthan

[0085] Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris and mutants and variants thereof. Its structure consists of a main chain of [3-D-glucoses linked in [3(1,4), similar to cellulose. Every second glucose molecule carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of a [3-D-mannose, a [3-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal [3-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues carry a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. Charged glucuronic acids and pyruvic acids are ionizable, and therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge up to pH 1). The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies depending on the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the post-fermentation conditions and the purification steps.These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na+, K+ or Ca2+ ions (SATIA Company, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acid solution.

[0086] Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition. containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer, type LVT at 60 revolutions per minute).

[0087] Xanthan gums are represented for example by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANE™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name NOVAXAN™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

[0088] In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one xanthan gum and in particular in a mixture with a scleroglucan gum. Carrageenans

[0089] Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by α(1,3) and β(1,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in 3,6-anhydro form.Depending on the number and position of ester-sulfate groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans which have one ester-sulfate group, iota-carrageenans which have two ester-sulfate groups and lambda-carrageenans which have three ester-sulfate groups.

[0090] Carrageenans consist essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and sulfate esters of polysaccharides.

[0091] Carrageenans are marketed in particular by the company Seppic under the name Solagum, by the company Gelymar under the name Carragel, Carralact, and Carrasol, by the company Cargill, under the names SATIAGEL™ and SATIAGUM™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names GENULACTA, GENUGEL and GENUVISCO.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least: - an ester of sucrose and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular at least sucrose tristearate, - an ester of fatty acid and ethers of sorbitol and / or sorbitan, - an acyl glutamate derivative, and - from 0.3 to 1% by weight relative to its total weight of polysaccharide(s) and in particular at least one scleroglucan gum, where appropriate mixed with a xanthan gum. Lipophilic sunscreen

[0093] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic sunscreen.

[0094] The lipophilic sunscreen(s) present in a composition according to the invention are chosen from organic and / or inorganic UV filters active in UVA and / or UVB.

[0095] The organic UV filters are in particular chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071, US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649;4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EP133981; merocyanine derivatives such as those described in applications WO04 / 006878, WO05 / 058269 and WO06 / 032741 and mixtures thereof.;

[0096] The lipophilic UVA sunscreens suitable for the invention may in particular be cited the filters chosen from: - dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as, for example, butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name “PARSOL 1789” by the company DSM Nutritional Products, Inc or isopropyl dibenzoylmethane; - aminobenzophenones such as, for example, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL A +” by the company BASF; - anthranilic derivatives such as, for example, methyl anthranilate sold in particular under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN MA” by the company SYMRISE; - 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives such as 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene; - merocyanine derivatives such as for example Octyl-5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate; - cyano derivatives, in particular methoxypropylaminocyclohexenyldiene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE), notably sold under the name UVINUL LR by the company BASF, as well as its geometric isomers 2E.

[0097] Among the lipophilic UVB sunscreens suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of filters chosen from: - para-aminobenzoates such as, for example, ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA (ESCALOL 507 from ISP); - salicylic derivatives such as, for example, homosalate sold in particular under the name “Eusolex HMS” by the company Rona / EM Industries, ethylhexyl salicylate sold in particular under the name “NEO HELIOPAN OS” by the company SYMRISE, dipropylene glycol salicylate sold in particular under the name “DIPSAL” by the company SCHER, and TEA Salicylate sold in particular under the name “NEO HELIOPAN TS” by the company SYMRISE; - cinnamates such as, for example, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name “PARSOL MCX” by the company DSM Nutritional Products, Inc, isopropyl methoxy cinnamate, isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, sold in particular under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN E 1000” by the company SYMRISE, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, cinnoxate and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate; - [3,[3'-diphenylacrylate] derivatives such as, for example, octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N539” by the company BASF and etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N35” by the company BASF; - benzylidene camphor derivatives such as, for example, 3-benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SD” by the company CHIMEX, methylbenzylidene camphor sold in particular under the name “EUSOLEX 6300” by the company MERCK, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SW” by the company CHIMEX; - triazine derivatives such as, for example, ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL T150” by the company BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVASORB HEB” by the company SIGMA 3V, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate de dineopentyl)-s-triazin e, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate de diisobutyle)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(4'-amino benzalmalonate de dineopentyl)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate de nbutyle)-s-triazine, 2,4- bis(4'-amino benzoate de n-butyle)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, the symmetrical triazine filters described in patent US6225467, application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) in particular 2,4,6-tris-(biphenyl)-l,3,5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl-l,3,5-triazine) and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine, the latter two filters being described in BEIERSDORF applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992, WO 2006 / 034985); - imidazoline derivatives such as, for example, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate; - benzalmalonate derivatives such as, for example, polyorganosiloxanes with a benzalmalonate function such as Polysilicone-15 sold in particular under the trade name “PARSOL SLX” by the company DSM Nutritional Products, Inc, di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate; the preferred hydrophobic UVB filters are chosen from ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone; and - mixtures thereof.

[0098] Among the lipophilic UVA and UVB sunscreens suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of filters chosen from: - benzophenone derivatives such as, for example, benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL 400” by the company BASF, benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL D50” by the company BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL M40” by the company BASF, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name “Helisorb 11” by the company Norquay, benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name “Spectra-Sorb UV24” by the company American Cyanamid, benzophenone-10, benzophenone-11 and benzophenone-12; - phenyl benzotriazole derivatives such as, for example, drometrizole trisiloxane sold in particular under the name “Silatrizole” by the company RHODIA CHIMIE or manufactured under the name “Meroxyl XL” by the company CHIMEX, methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form in particular under the trade name “MIXXIM BB / 100” by the company FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion in particular under the trade name “TINOSORB M” by the company CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS; - bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives such as, for example, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold in particular under the trade name “TINOSORB S” by the company CIBA GEIGY; - benzoxazole derivatives such as, for example, 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benz oxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-l,3,5-triazine sold in particular under the name Uvasorb K2A by the company Sigma 3V.

[0099] The preferred lipophilic UVA and UVB sunscreens are chosen from drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and their mixtures and even more preferably bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

[0100] The lipophilic sunscreens used in a composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, cyano derivatives, and bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives, in particular from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethyl, methoxypropylaminocyclohexenyldiene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and mixtures thereof, more particularly methoxypropylaminocyclohexenyldiene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate.

[0101] The quantity of lipophilic sunscreens can vary from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.7 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least: - from 1 to 3% by weight relative to its total weight of lipophilic surfactant(s); - from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to its total weight of hydrophilic surfactant(s); - from 0.3 to 1% by weight relative to its total weight of anionic surfactant(s); - from 0.3 to 1% by weight relative to its total weight of at least one polysaccharide and in particular at least scleroglucan gum; and - from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to its total weight of lipophilic sunscreen(s), notably chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, cyano derivatives, and bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives, and in particular at least methoxypropylaminocyclohexenyldiene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate and / or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and / or bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

[0103] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one hydrophobic UVA filter chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and methoxypropylaminocyclohexenyldiene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate, and in particular at least methoxypropylaminocyclohexenyldiene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate. Aqueous phase

[0104] The aqueous phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least water mixed or not with one or more water-soluble solvents.

[0105] The amount of aqueous phase may range from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 55% to 85% by weight, better still from 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 53% by weight, better still at least 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase may contain ethanol.

[0107] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol. Polyols

[0108] For the purposes of the invention, the term polyol means: - a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions; or - a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, such as for example polyethylene glycols (PEG) having 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.

[0109] Preferably, the polyol(s) have a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.

[0110] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12, and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0111] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythrityl, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol.

[0112] Among these polyols, glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof are preferably chosen.

[0113] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, in particular are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythrityl tetrahydrofuran, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0114] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, better still from 5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention contains, as gelling agent, at least one natural or naturally occurring polymer. Oily phase

[0117] A composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase in particular in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, better still 2% to 20% by weight and even better still 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] In addition to the ingredients required according to the invention, the oily phase may comprise one or more additional fatty substances chosen in particular from oils, waxes and pasty compounds. Oils)

[0119] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C + / - 5°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0120] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0121] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0122] The term “non-silicone oil” means an oil not comprising a silicon atom, and in particular a Si-O group.

[0123] Preferably, the oils used in the present invention are non-silicone.

[0124] As hydrocarbon oil, we can notably cite:

[0125] - branched alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular C8 -Ci6 such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof, - linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 26 carbon atoms, more particularly 10 to 20 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures; or a mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms (named C15-C19 alkane), for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic. hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane, and their mixtures, Hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ, rice bran, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, Limanthes alba seeds (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil);or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel. We can also mention coco-caprylate / caprate, for example sold under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois; synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylic ether, synthetic esters, distinct from fatty acid monoesters (d) as defined above, such as oils of formula R3COOR4, in which R3 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R4 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R3 + R4 is greater than or equal to 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by the company Witco or "Tegosoft TN" by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-Tend 226" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or (Z)-Octadec-9-enyl (Z)-docos-13-enoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name " Dub Dis » by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate;and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and C1-C6 alcohols with the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example that sold under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, dimer diol and dimer diacid esters, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, more particularly chosen from the esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and mixtures thereof, fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name "Eldew SL205" from Ajinomoto, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a carbon chain branched and possibly unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as behenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids C19-C22, - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC” by the company Cognis.

[0126] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 1% to 40% by weight, and preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of non-silicone oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Co-surfactant

[0127] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one co-surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols or phospholipids.

[0128] When present, the co-surfactant is chosen from fatty alcohols which are solid at room temperature, saturated, linear, and comprising from 14 to 26 carbon atoms, and / or from phospholipids.

[0129] The co-surfactant(s) may in particular be chosen from the group comprising cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, behenic alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and phospholipids, in particular lecithins and preferably hydrogenated lecithin.

[0130] When present, the amount of co-surfactant(s) may vary from 0.05 to 7 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 3% by weight and even better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional synthetic gelling polymer

[0131] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional synthetic gelling polymer.

[0132] For the purposes of the invention, the term synthetic means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor derived from a polymer of natural origin.

[0133] This synthetic gelling agent may be chosen from polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents and in particular from crosslinked acrylic homo- or co-polymers; cationic, anionic, non-ionic associative polymers and in particular polyurethane-type associative polymers; polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized; carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, organopolysiloxane elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of:

[0135] - crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers sodium such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (name CTFA: Polyacrylamide / Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by the company Seppic;

[0136] - copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as than that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) but neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

[0137] - copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, such as for example the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by the company Seppic or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer);

[0138] - copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or as the product marketed under the name Sodium Acrylamido-2-Methyl propane Sulfonate / Hydroxyethylacr ylate copolymer such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

[0139] Among the anionic associative polymers, mention may be made of maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer product sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company Newphase Technologies. As an example of this type of compound, mention may be made of Aculyn 22® sold by the company Rohm and Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (comprising 20 EO units) or Aculyn 28® (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylene behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (25 EO).

[0140] As non-ionic associative polymer of polyurethane type, which can be used in the invention, we can, for example, cite Rhéolate® FX 1100 (Steareth-100 / PEG 136 / HDI(hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), Rhéolate® 205 with urea function sold by the company Elementis or even Rhéolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol® RM 184 or Acrysol® RM 2020.

[0141] As a representative of modified or unmodified carboxy vinyl polymers, mention may be made more particularly of acrylate / CiO-C3O-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / CiO-3O Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as, for example, the products marketed by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR-1, Pemulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2.

[0142] As organopolysiloxane elastomer, mention may in particular be made of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name).

[0143] The implementation of one of these synthetic polymers or one of their mixtures falls within the skills of those skilled in the art. Cosmetic active ingredients and adjuvants

[0144] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain one or more active agents and adjuvants chosen in particular from cosmetic active agents, hydrophilic sunscreens, colorants, pearlescent agents, pigments, perfumes, preservatives, pH adjusters, film-forming agents, etc.

[0145] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0146] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen in particular from: - vitamins and their derivatives; - active ingredients known for their anti-aging properties; - desquamating active ingredients; - active ingredients for firmness; - hydrophilic sunscreens; and - their mixtures.

[0147] A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 20% by weight and even better still from 0.01% to 15% by weight of active ingredient(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition

[0148] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0149] It can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste.

[0150] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. This may be the skin of the face and / or the body, in particular the face and / or the neck and / or the hands.

[0151] The composition according to the invention may comprise all the constituents usually used in the application and topical administration envisaged.

[0152] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed after application. Uses and methods

[0153] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection, and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.

[0154] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratin material.

[0155] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0156] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by administering topically a composition according to the invention.

[0157] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques of use of these compositions.

[0158] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention.

[0159] According to one embodiment, the application is repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over one day or more and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.

[0160] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0161] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0162] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are “expressed as % of raw material”, more precisely as % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. Methods and Measurements Raw materials

[0163] In the examples below the compounds are identified by their INCI name:

[0164] “SUCROSE TRISTEARATE” is marketed under the names RYOTO SUGAR ESTER S 370 or SURFHOPE SE COSME C-1803 by the company MITSUBISHI CHEMICALS;

[0165] “POLYSORBATE 61” is marketed under the name SP TWEEN 61 MBAL-SO-(MV) by the company CRODA;

[0166] “SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE” is marketed under the name AMISOFT® HS 11 PF by the company AJINOMOTO;

[0167] “GLYCERYL STEARATE” is marketed under the name RADIASURF 7343 RSPO MB by the company OLEON;

[0168] “PEG-40 STEARATE” is marketed under the name SP MYRJ S40-MBAL-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA;

[0169] “GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE” is marketed under the name RADIASURF 7343 RSPO MB by the company OLEON;

[0170] “STEARYL ALCOHOL” is marketed under the names ALKONAT 1898P MB, LANETTE 18 or NACOL 1898 by the companies OXITENO, BASF or SASOL;

[0171] “HYDROGENATED LECITHIN” is marketed under the name NIKKOL LECINOL S 10 by the company IMCD;

[0172] “SCLEROTIUM GUM” is marketed under the name AMIGUM by the company ALBAN MULLER;

[0173] “SCLEROTIUM GUM (and) XANTHAN GUM” is marketed under the name ACTIGUM VSX 20 by the company CARGILL;

[0174] “SODIUM POLYACRYLATE” is marketed under the name COSMEDIA SP by the company BASF;

[0175] “BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE” is marketed under the name EUSOLEX 9020 by the company MERCK;

[0176] “AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE” is marketed under the name UVINUL LR by the company BASF;

[0177] “METHOXYPROPYLAMINOCYCLOHEXENYLDIENEETHOXYETHYL CYANO ACETATE” is marketed under the name UVINUL LR by the company BASF;

[0178] “BIS-ETHYLHEXULOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE” is marketed under the name PARSOL SHIELD by the company DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS;

[0179] “BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE” is marketed under the name PARSOL SHIELD by the company DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS;

[0180] “ASCORBIC ACID” is marketed under the name VC ASCORBIC ACID 100 MESH (95%) 50 1584 2 by the company DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS;

[0181] “GLYCERIN” is marketed under the name GLYCERINE 4811 by the company OLEON;

[0182] “ISOPROPRYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE” is marketed under the name ELDEW SL-205 by the company AJINOMOTO;

[0183] “DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE” is marketed under the name DUB DIS by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS;

[0184] “DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE” is marketed under the name 660014 ISOADIPATE by the company SYMRISE;

[0185] “SODIUM HYDROXIDE” is marketed under the name CAUSTIC SODA 50% MEMBRANE by the company UNIVAR. Stability Control Protocol

[0186] The stability assessment protocol is detailed below: Centrifugation#:

[0187] The stability of the compositions is evaluated by passing the compositions obtained through a centrifuge, of the Thermo Scientific type, at T = 24 hours, according to the following protocol: 2500 rpm for 1 hour. The observation of a phase shift, a release or a change in appearance is verified. Stability measurement#:

[0188] The stability of the compositions is evaluated after conservation of the formulas and under the following conditions:

[0189] A composition is prepared, then stored at different temperatures: i) at room temperature ii) at 37°C in an oven iii) at 45°C in an oven.

[0190] The composition is then evaluated as follows: - at t = 24 hours, the appearance, color and odor of the composition, the pH are characterized, - at t = 1 month, the appearance, color and odor of the composition.

[0191] The macroscopic appearance of the composition must remain identical or even close to the initial appearance characterized at t = 24 hours. To be compliant, a composition must remain smooth, homogeneous and without modification of appearance, that is to say without oily or aqueous release (syneresis), without creaming, without phase separation and without change of color or odor. Example 1#: Preparation of compositions

[0192] Compositions II to 15 according to the invention are prepared according to the protocol described below, the nature of the ingredients and their respective quantities are given in table 1. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preparation of compositions II to 15

[0193] The aqueous phase is heated to 75°C in the main tank (emulsifier speed at 1000 rpm with 30 rpm scraper), then the fatty phase is heated in another tank to 80°C. The fatty phase is poured onto the aqueous phase to give an emulsion (emulsifier speed at 4000 rpm with 60 rpm scraper). The fineness of the emulsion is checked by microscopy. The emulsion is diluted with water then heated to 25°C (emulsifier speed at 4000 rpm with 60 rpm scraper). The powdered polymer is added from the top of the tank at a temperature between 45°C and 50°C and the mixture is left stirring for 20 min (emulsifier speed at 4000 rpm with 60 rpm scraper). The antioxidants and perfumes are added at a temperature of 40°C, then the vacuum is set to -0.5 bar (emulsifier speed at 4000 rpm with 60 rpm scraper).Powdered ascorbic acid is added to the open tank at a temperature below 30°C (emulsifier speed at 4000 rpm with 60 rpm scraper), then the soda is added from the top of the tank (emulsifier speed at 4000 rpm with 60 rpm scraper), then the vacuum is created at -0.5 bar for 5 min. The speed of the emulsifier is reduced (emulsifier speed at 1000 rpm with 30 rpm scraper) and the vacuum is created at -0.5 bar for 5 min before stopping the emulsifier.

[0194] [Tables 1] Composés H 12 13 14 15 K SUCROSE TRISTEARÀTE 2.0 2,0 2,Q 2,0 2,0 2.0 POLYSORBATE Si 1.0 LO 1,0 l„û 1,0 - SODIUM .STEARGYL GLUTAMATE 0.75 0,75 0,75 0,75 0,75 0.75 POLYGLYCERYL-3 .METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE - - - - - 1 STEARYL ALCOHOL 0,4 9,4 0,4 9,4 0,4 0.4 HTTJROGENATED LECITHIN - 0.25 - - - - SCLERGTIUM GUM 9,5 0,5 - - 0,5 - SCLEROTKJM GUM (and) XANTHAN GUM - - 0,5 0,8 0.S MEEHOXYPROPYLAMINOCYCLOHEXENYL DIENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACETATE. 1,0 LO 1,0 L0 - 1.0 B1S-ETHYLMEXULQXYPHEXOL METWXYPHENYL TRIAZÏNE - - - - 0,5 - BUTYL METHOXYDEBENZ0YLMETHANE - - - - 0,5 - ASCÔRBÏC ACID 12,0 12,0 12,0 12,0 12,0 12.0 GLYCERIN 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5.0 Séquestrant 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 9.5 Actif Anti-Age 0,1 0,1 0,1 Ü,1 0,1 2.1 ISOPROPRYL LAUROYL SARCGSINATE O 8,0 8,0 ST 8,0 8.0 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,25 3.0 DUSOPROPYL ADIPATE O 4,0 4,0 4,0 4,0 4.0 Conservateurs 12 1,2 1,2 1,2 L2 0,7 Antioxydant 1,0 1,0 1,0 LS 1,0 1.0 WATER Qsp 100 & s & s 8 f QSP lœ Qsp iœ SODIUM HYDROXIDE .2.69 2.69 2.67 2.67 û 2.67 PERFUME 0.2 - - - - Measured pH at t = 24 hours $ 2 6.3 6.0 6.1 6.1 6.0 .

[0195] The pH and stability of compositions II to 16 were determined according to the protocol previously described above in the “Methods and measurements” section. Table 2 below details the results obtained.

[0196] [Tables2] Composition 11 12 13 14 15 16 Macroscopic observation of the composition stored at room temperature after 1 month Compositions II to 16 are compliant Macroscopic observation of the composition stored at 37°C after 1 month Compositions II to 16 are compliant Macroscopic observation of the composition stored at 45°C after 1 month Compositions II to 16 are compliant

[0197] Compositions II to 16 according to the invention are compliant, in the sense that no significant change in their properties is observed, whether after storage at room temperature, at 37°C or at 45°C for 1 month.

[0198] Example 2: Preparation of compositions outside the invention

[0199] Compositions C1 (free of natural or natural origin gelling polymer), C2 (free of anionic surfactant), and C3 (free of lipophilic and anionic surfactants) outside the invention are prepared according to the protocol described above in example 1, the nature of the ingredients and their respective quantities are given in table 3. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] [Tables3] Compounds Cl (non-invention) C2 (non-invention) C 3 (non-invention) POLYSORBATE 61 1.0 - SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.75 GLYCERYL STEARATE -< SUCROSE TRISTEARATE 2.0 PEG-40 STEARATE 3.75 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE STEARYL ALCOHOL 0.4 0.4 0.4 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.5 0.5 SODHJM POLYACRYLATE 0.5 - *• AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYUJIME'THYL TAURATE 0.5 - methoxypr.qpylaminocyclohexenyl DIENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACETATE 1.0 1.0 1.0 ASCORBIC ACID 12.0 12.0 12.0 GLYCER1N 5.0 5.0 5.0 Sequestrant 0.5 0.5 0.5 Anti-aging active 0.1 0.1 0.1 ISOPROPRYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE 8.0 so 8.0 DHSOPROPYL SEBACATE 3.0 3.0 3.0 DHSOPROPYL ADIPATE 4.0 4.0 4.0 Preservatives 1.2' 1.2 1.2 Antioxidant 1.0 1.0 1.0 WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 2.69 2.69 2.69 PERFUME 0.2 0.2 0.2.

[0201] The stabilities of the compositions outside the invention C1 to C3 were determined according to the protocol previously described above in the “Methods and measurements” section.

[0202] Table 4 below details the results obtained.

[0203] [Tables4] Composition Cl (outside the invention) C2 (outside the invention) C3 (outside the invention) Macroscopic observation of the composition stored at room temperature after 1 month The composition is compliant The composition is compliant The composition shows a phase shift Macroscopic observation of the composition stored at 37°C after 1 month The composition shows an oily release The composition is compliant The composition shows a phase shift Macroscopic observation of the composition, stored at 45°C after 1 month The composition shows an oily release The composition shows creaming The composition shows a phase shift

[0204] Composition Cl, devoid of the required natural or naturally occurring polymer, exhibits oily release after 1 month of storage at 37°C and 45°C; it is therefore unstable.

[0205] Similarly, composition C2, whose surfactant system is not in accordance with the invention, exhibits creaming after 1 month of storage at 45°C; it is therefore unstable.

[0206] Finally, composition C3, the surfactant system of which is also not in accordance with the invention, exhibits a phase shift after 1 month of storage at room temperature, at 37°C and at 45°C.

[0207] It follows from these examples that only the compositions according to the invention exhibit satisfactory stability, even after storage for one month at high temperatures.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising: - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one lipophilic sunscreen; - at least one lipophilic surfactant with HLB ranging from 2 to 5, - at least one hydrophilic surfactant with HLB ranging from 8 to 12, - at least one anionic surfactant, - at least one natural or naturally-derived gelling polymer, and with said composition having a pH ranging from 5 to 7.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, having a pH ranging from 5.5 to 6.5, and in particular of the order of 6.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 6 to 15% by weight, better still from 7 to 12% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, as lipophilic surfactant with HLB ranging from 2 to 5, at least one surfactant chosen from mono, di or triesters of sucrose and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms such as stearic acid, in particular sucrose tristearate, sucrose distearate and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, as hydrophilic surfactant with an HLB ranging from 8 to 12, at least one surfactant chosen from fatty acid esters (in particular of C12-C30 and preferably C12-C20 acid) and oxyethylenated sorbitol and / or sorbitan ethers (which may comprise from 2 to 30 oxyethylenated groups), such as stearic acid and sorbitol and / or sorbitan esters comprising from 2 to 20 EO groups such as polysorbate-60, polysorbate-61, sorbeth-3 isosteratate, polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate 4 EO, polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate 20 EO, and polyglycerol (and derivative) and fatty acid esters, such as polyglyceryl methyl glucose 3 distearate and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, as anionic surfactant, at least one surfactant chosen from acyl glutamates whose acyl group comprises from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from sodium stearoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of lipophilic surfactant(s) whose HLB is between 2 and 5, of hydrophilic surfactant(s) whose HLB is between 8 and 12, and of anionic surfactant(s) ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 3 to 7% by weight, better still from 3.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least: - from 1 to 3% by weight relative to its total weight of lipophilic surfactant(s), in particular chosen from esters of sucrose and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular at least sucrose tristearate; - from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to its total weight of hydrophilic surfactant(s), in particular chosen from esters of fatty acids and ethers of sorbitol and / or sorbitan; and - from 0.3 to 1% by weight relative to its total weight of anionic surfactant(s), in particular chosen from acyl glutamates, and in particular at least sodium stearoyl glutamate.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least: - an ester of sucrose and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular at least sucrose tristearate, - an ester of fatty acid and ethers of sorbitol and / or sorbitan, - an acyl glutamate derivative, and - from 0.3 to 1% by weight relative to its total weight of polysaccharide(s) and in particular at least scleroglucan gum.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the lipophilic sunscreen(s) are chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, cyano derivatives, and bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives, in particular from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, methoxypropylaminocyclohexeny Idiene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and mixtures thereof, more particularly methoxypropylaminocyclohexenyldiene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising a content of lipophilic sunscreen(s) ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.7 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one natural or naturally-derived gelling polymer chosen from polysaccharides and in particular from scleroglucan gums and xanthan gums and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a content of natural or naturally occurring gelling polymer(s) ranging from 0.2 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 1.5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Cosmetic process for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the topical application to these keratin materials, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.