Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polyglycerol ester

Abstract

Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polyglycerol ester The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising at least one ester of polyglycerol and C8-C24 fatty acid(s) and having less than 11 glycerol units; myristic acid; and at least linoleic acid. It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or treating keratin materials, comprising the application of such a composition to the keratin materials, and the use of such a composition for preventing and / or treating symptoms related to dryness problems on the keratin materials and / or for repairing and strengthening the skin barrier. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polyglycerol ester Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one ester of polyglycerol and fatty acid(s).

[0002] It relates in particular to the implementation of a composition of the invention to repair and strengthen the skin barrier, and in particular to prevent and treat the symptoms of dryness.

[0003] Finally, it relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention. Prior art

[0004] The skin is a protective barrier and exchange with the environment, which is both strong and fragile, it can, for various reasons, lose its flexibility and its capacity to retain water, causing dryness of the skin.

[0005] It is known that the Stratum Comeum, or horny layer, which is the most superficial area of ​​the epidermis, is particularly involved in skin hydration. Located at the interface with the external environment, its function is to delay excessive water loss from the deeper layers of the epidermis. The Stratum Comeum also protects against mechanical aggression. It also constitutes the first defense against UV radiation.

[0006] For obvious reasons, it is important to ensure a sufficient level of hydration to the skin to preserve its suppleness, softness, tone and / or appearance, and to avoid skin dryness.

[0007] It may also be necessary to maintain this level of hydration over time, and in particular when environmental conditions of temperature and / or humidity are changing (changes during the day cold / hot - hot / cold for example).

[0008] Generally speaking, a decrease in this level of hydration can be prevented or treated by acting at the level of the Stratum Corneum via known hydrating active ingredients such as, for example, glycerol, or via products whose galenic form makes it possible to slow down transepidermal water loss (TEWL) such as inverse emulsions containing mineral oils and derivatives (E / O), via the deposition of a phase oily, continuous formulation that is sufficiently occlusive to maintain the hydration level of the stratum corneum. However, some of these active ingredients can make the formulas sticky, especially when used at high concentrations. As for inverse emulsion (E / O) formulations, they can have an occlusive nature, resulting in a greasy and sticky finish.

[0009] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0010] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0011] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0012] In view of the above, there therefore remains a need for new compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, in particular for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials, which have good microscopic robustness, while having properties, in particular sensory properties, sought by the consumer, i.e. a feeling of comfort during and after application, a slippery and non-sticky deposit, a creamy texture and an emollient and light skin finish.

[0013] It is also expected that these compositions have satisfactory stability, in particular stability evaluated at 1 month and / or 2 months of storage, in particular on the macroscopic and microscopic levels after two months of storage under temperature conditions ranging from 4°C to 45°C, in particular at 4°C, at room temperature (generally between 20°C and 25°C), and at 45°C.

[0014] Finally, it is advantageous that such compositions use, for the most part, renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin.

[0015] The present invention aims precisely to meet these expectations. Summary of the invention

[0016] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of materials.

[0017] keratinous, comprising: (a) at least one ester of polyglycerol and C8-C24 fatty acid(s) and having less than 11 glycerol units; (b) myristic acid; and (c) at least linoleic acid.

[0018] As illustrated in the examples below, the inventors have discovered that the combination of a polyglycerol ester in accordance with the invention with myristic acid and linoleic acid makes it possible to obtain compositions having interesting sensory properties, in particular easy spreading, good glide and a non-sticky appearance, and providing long-lasting hydration to the user, while maintaining satisfactory stability over time.

[0019] The compositions according to the present invention advantageously make it possible to increase the suppleness of the skin, thus making it possible to eliminate the feeling of tightness.

[0020] Furthermore, the compositions according to the present invention provide, before being absorbed by the skin, a pleasant sensory sensation, in particular one devoid of a sticky effect, and are easy to spread.

[0021] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to these keratin materials, in particular the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[0022] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for preventing and / or treating symptoms linked to dryness problems on keratin materials.

[0023] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above for repairing and strengthening the skin barrier.

[0024] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows. Detailed description

[0025] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

[0026] The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0027] By "cosmetic" is meant a composition compatible with the skin and the appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0028] By “keratin materials” is meant in particular the skin, the fibers, the eyelashes and appendages.

[0029] By "the skin" is meant all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, scalp, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, hands, wrists and ankles, or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolleté and neck.

[0030] A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0031] As used herein, the terms "treat" and "treatment" are intended to mean the alleviation of symptoms associated with a specific disorder or condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms as well as the complete disappearance of the disorder or condition in question.

[0032] In the context of the present invention, the terms "prevent" and "prevention" designate the reduction to a lesser degree of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon. Polyglycerol ester of fatty acid(s) (a)

[0033] According to the present invention, the ester of polyglycerol and fatty acid(s) (a) is chosen from the esters resulting from the esterification of a polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably from the esters resulting from the esterification of a polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 4 glycerol units and / or from the esterification of a polyglycerol comprising from 8 to 10 glycerol units by at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and even better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0034] The fatty acids of 8 to 24 carbon atoms according to the invention can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0035] The fatty acids may be chosen from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0036] The polyglycerol and fatty acid esters may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0037] Esters with a low degree of esterification are preferably used, such as monoesters, diesters, triesters of fatty acids, or a mixture.

[0038] The polyglycerol ester and fatty acid(s) may be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, such as, for example, a mixture of monoester and diester or a mixture of monoester, diester and triester.

[0039] According to one embodiment, the ester of polyglycerol and fatty acid(s) is chosen from esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units by one or more fatty acid(s) comprising from 8 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, caprylic acid, nonanoic acid, capric acid, undecanoic acid and / or lauric acid.

[0040] Mention may be made, for example, of the ester resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol-10 (homopolymer of glycerol comprising 10 glycerol units) by lauric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-10 laurate) such as, for example, that marketed by the company Dr Straetmans under the reference DERMOFEEL G 10 L and the ester resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol-4 (homopolymer of glycerol comprising 4 glycerol units) by capric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate) such as, for example, that marketed by the company Evonik under the reference TEGOSOFT PC 41.

[0041] According to another embodiment, the ester of polyglycerol and fatty acid(s) (a) is chosen from esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 4 glycerol units by at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid comprising from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and preferably chosen from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid and linoleic acid.

[0042] According to this particular embodiment, the ester of polyglycerol and fatty acid(s) (a) is chosen from polyglyceryl-2-Oleate, polyglyceryl-4-Isostearate and their mixtures.

[0043] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least 1% by weight, preferably from 1.2 to 5% by weight of polyglycerol ester(s) comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms relative to its total weight.

[0044] A composition according to the invention further comprises myristic acid.

[0045] The amount of myristic acid varies from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] A composition according to the invention also comprises at least linoleic acid.

[0047] The amount of linoleic acid can vary from 0.3 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least linoleic acid and linolenic acid.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment, said linoleic and linolenic acids are used in the composition in the form of vitamin F.

[0050] The amount of linoleic acid and linolenic acid may vary from 0.3 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 4% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] By way of illustration and non-limiting example of compositions suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of compositions formed from: - at least 1%, in particular from 1.2 to 5% by weight relative to its total weight of polyglycerol ester and fatty acid(s) (a), - from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to its total weight of myristic acid, - from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to its total weight of vitamin F, and - at least 60% by weight relative to its total weight of water.

[0052] As specified above, the present invention relates to compositions of the direct emulsion type, that is to say having an oily phase dispersed in the form of droplets in an aqueous phase.

[0053] As such, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one surfactant and in particular at least one non-ionic surfactant. Non-ionic surfactants

[0054] In particular, a composition according to the present invention comprises: - at least one non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one unsaturated ester and at least one diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol, and - at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols with a linear and saturated carbon chain containing from 14 to 26 carbon atoms. A. Ester-type non-ionic surfactant

[0055] The quantity of non-ionic surfactant(s) of ester type can vary from 3.5 to 6.5% by weight, preferably from 4 to 6% by weight, better still from 4.5 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] More specifically, said non-ionic surfactant of ester type suitable for the invention comprises: (i) at least one unsaturated ester of formula (A): R1-C(O)-O-R2 (A): in which: R1 and R2 represent, respectively, a C[8 to C44] fatty chain, at least R1 or R2 is unsaturated, preferably monounsaturated; and (ii) at least one diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol of formula (B): R3-C(O)-(O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2)nOC(O)-R4 (B): in which: n = 2 to 6 R3 and R4 represent, respectively, a linear or branched C[8 to C44] saturated fatty chain.

[0057] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprises at least one unsaturated ester of formula (A) in which R1 and R2 re respectively have a fatty chain of C18 to C30, with at least one of the groups R1 and R2 being unsaturated, preferably monounsaturated and at least one polyglycerol diester of formula (B) in which R3-C(O)- and R4 each represent a saturated, linear or branched fatty chain of C2o to C34.

[0058] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprises at least POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS. Unsaturated ester of formula (A):

[0059] More specifically, in formula (A), the R1—C(O) group corresponds to the carbon chain of the fatty acid. This chain can be linear or unsaturated, and comprises at least 18 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of oleic (C18:1), ga-doleic (C20:1), erucic (C22:1) acids, up to hexacosanoic acid (C26:1) for unsaturated acids. The R1—C(O) group can also consist of branched and saturated acids of at least 18 carbon atoms, also called Guerbet acids. The R2—O— group can consist of monounsaturated linear fatty alcohols with at least 18 carbon atoms. Mention may thus be made of octadecenol, eicosenol, docosenol and hexacosenol. The carbon chain of the alcohol can also be branched and saturated and contain at least 18 carbon atoms. Such alcohols are also called Guerbet alcohols.

[0060] Preferably, the unsaturated ester of formula (A) is a mixture of esters comprising different fatty chain lengths in their structures. More preferably, such an unsaturated ester is liquid at room temperature.

[0061] As a preferred unsaturated ester according to the invention, the product commonly called jojoba oil (or jojoba esters) may be mentioned, the liquid nature being due to the presence of monounsaturated chains. This oil comprises in particular esters of unsaturated fatty acids C18:1 (preferably minority), C20:1 and C22:1 (preferably majority with C20:1>C22:1), with unsaturated fatty alcohols C20:1, C22:1 and C24:1.

[0062] Fatty acid diester of polyglycerol of formula (B):

[0063] According to one embodiment, in formula (B) of fatty acid diester and polyglycerol, the group R3-C(O)- corresponds to the carbon chain of a fatty acid in C[8 to C44, preferably in C14-22, said acid usually being linear and saturated, preferably corresponding to a linear and saturated fatty acid in C2o to C34. This therefore includes eicosanoic (or arachidic) acid (C20), docosanoic (or behenic) acid (C22), tetracosanoic (or lignoceric) acid (C24), hexacosanoic (or ketonic) acid (C26). The group R4 corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of the alcohol, said alcohol usually being saturated linear and having a chain C[8 to C^, preferably a chain C20 to C34. n is an integer between 2 and 6. Typically, the C[4-C22] fatty acid may be selected from the group consisting of myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, of behenic acid, erucic acid and arachidic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] The polyglycerol may be a polymer of glycerol units, preferably a polymer having an average degree of polymerization between 4 and 8, preferably 6.

[0065] Preferably, this diester is a diester of distearic acid with hexaglycerol. Preferably, it is polyglyceryl-6 distearate.

[0066] According to one embodiment of the invention, this diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol is obtained by esterification of a solid wax with at least one polyol.

[0067] For the purposes of the invention, a solid wax is a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 40°C, which may range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C. Solid waxes which are more particularly suitable have a melting point between 50 and 90°C.

[0068] Beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, Ouricuri wax, Shellac wax and sugarcane wax are examples of solid natural waxes. Preferably, the solid wax is beeswax.

[0069] Generally speaking, waxes are mixtures comprising mainly monoesters of very long chain fatty acids and alcohols. Depending on the source of the wax, this mixture of monoesters may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxy acid esters such as hydroxypalmitic or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case, for example, with beeswax.

[0070] As for the polyol, used for the esterification of the wax, it is preferably selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 2-methyl propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, trimethylol propane, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, glycerol, diglycerol and polyglycerol (i.e. a polymer with glycerol units). More preferably, the polyol is a polyglycerol, having an average degree of polymerization between 2 and 5, preferably 3. Preferably, the polyol is polyglycerol-3.

[0071] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant of ester type according to the invention may comprise, in addition to at least one compound of formula (A) and at least one compound of formula (B), i.e. at least one compound resulting from the esterification of beeswax with polyglycerol-3. In particular, the non-ionic surfactant of ester type according to the invention contains polyglyceryl-3-Beeswax.

[0072] More precisely, the non-ionic surfactant of ester type according to the invention is advantageously obtained by reacting together at least one solid wax and at least one polyol in the presence of at least one unsaturated ester of formula (A) and optionally at least one catalyst.

[0073] Preferred catalysts are alkali or alkali metal hydroxides or alkoxides, calcium hydroxide, potassium or sodium carbonates or tin or titanium based catalysts.

[0074] Advantageously, the solid wax is selected from the group consisting of camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, sugarcane wax, Ouricuri wax, beeswax and Shellac wax.

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, the ester-type non-ionic surfactant is obtained by reaction of jojoba wax, beeswax and a polyglycerol, such as for example polyglycerol-3.

[0076] In practice, the reaction is preferably carried out at a temperature between 100°C and 220°C, advantageously between 150°C and 200°C.

[0077] Preferably, the mass ratio of unsaturated ester of formula (A) / solid wax varies between 5 / 95 and 95 / 5, advantageously between 30 / 70 and 75 / 25.

[0078] The solid wax / polyol mass ratio preferably varies between 1 / 99 and 99 / 1, advantageously between 95 / 5 and 50 / 50.

[0079] Preferably, the proportion of esterified polyol varies from 0.5 to 50% by weight of the mixture, the proportion of esterified fatty acids varies from 20 to 60% by weight of the mixture and the proportion of esterified fatty alcohols varies from 20 to 60% by weight of the mixture.

[0080] It should be noted that the non-ionic surfactant of ester type may itself contain one or more polyglycerol ester(s) comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and therefore an ester conforming to the definition of compound (a) required according to the invention. Consequently, the quantity of polyglycerol ester(s) (a) expressed according to the invention above takes into account these two modes of presence of polyglycerol ester (a), i.e. in an individualized form and in the form of a mixture containing it and corresponding to a commercial form of a non-ionic surfactant of ester type as detailed below. B) Non-ionic surfactant of fatty alcohol type

[0081] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one other non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols.

[0082] According to one embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant of fatty alcohol type is chosen from fatty alcohols which are solid at room temperature, saturated, linear, and comprising from 14 to 26 carbon atoms.

[0083] The fatty alcohol(s) which may be suitable for the invention are in particular chosen from the group comprising cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, behenic alcohol and myricyl alcohol.

[0084] According to one embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant of fatty alcohol type is C16 to C22 and comprises at least cetyl alcohol.

[0085] As cetyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names ECOROL® 16 / 98 F and ECOROL® 16 / 98 P marketed by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, TEGOALKANOL® 16 marketed by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, LANETTE® 16 marketed by the company BASF, VEGAROL® 1698 marketed by the company WF, ALKONAT® 1698 P marketed by the company Oxiteno, CETYL ALCOHOL 98% MIN marketed by the company Emery Oleochemicals, GINOL® 16 (98%) marketed by the company Godrej Industries, NACOL® 16-98 marketed by the company Sasol, KALCOL® 6098 marketed by the company Kao and ACILOL® 16 marketed by the company Aegis Chemical.

[0086] As stearyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names TEGOALKANOL® 18 marketed by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, ECOROL® 18 / 98 F and ECOROL® 18 / 98 P marketed by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® 18 marketed by the company BASF, KALCOL® 8098 marketed by the company Kao, ACILOL® 18 marketed by the company Aegis Chemical, NACOL® 18-98 marketed by the company Sasol and NAA® 45 marketed by the company Nihon Yushi.

[0087] As cetyl stearyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names ECOROL® 68 / 50 F and ECOROL® 68 / 50 P marketed by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE ® O OR and LANETTE® O OR FLAKES marketed by the company Cognis, ALKONAT® 1618 C50 P marketed by the company Oxiteno, NAFOL® 16-18 EN marketed by the company Sasol, ALCOHOL CETOESTEARILICO 50 / 50 marketed by the company Industria Quimica Del Centre, CONOL® 30 CK marketed by the company New Japan Chemical, CETYL STEARYL ALCOHOL 50:50 marketed by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, KALCOL® 6850 marketed by the company Kao, VEGAROL® 1618 (50:50) marketed by WF company and GINOL® 1618 50:50 OR marketed by Godrej Industries company.

[0088] As behenic alcohol suitable for the invention, it is possible, for example, to use that sold under the name LANETTE® 22 marketed by the company BASF.

[0089] The quantity of non-ionic surfactant(s) of fatty alcohol type varies from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.15 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] According to a preferred embodiment, said non-ionic surfactants of ester type and alcohol type are used in the form of a mixture.

[0091] Among the mixtures which are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Emulium Mellifera®, (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) Jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax) and under the name Acticire® MB (INCI name: Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3 (and) Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax) by the company Gattefosse.

[0092] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixture used is the product sold by the company Gattefosse under the name Actimelli MB® (INCI name: Poly-glyceryl-6 distearate (and) Jojoba esters (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (and) polyglycerin-3 (and) acacia deccurens flower wax). Anionic surfactant

[0093] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one anionic co-surfactant, notably chosen from surfactants of the glutamic acid salt type, of the phosphoric acid and fatty alcohol ester salt type, of the alkyl sulfate type, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant is sodium stearyl glutamate. When it(they) is(are) present in the composition, the amount of anionic co-surfactant varies from 0.3 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0095] A composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase in particular in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably 2% to 20% by weight and even better 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] In addition to the ingredients required according to the invention, the oily phase may comprise one or more oils, in particular as detailed below. Oils)

[0097] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C + / - 5°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0098] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0099] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0100] The term “non-silicone oil” means an oil not comprising a silicon atom, and in particular a Si-O group.

[0101] Preferably, the oils used in the present invention are non-silicone.

[0102] Preferably, the oils used in the present invention have a molecular weight greater than or equal to 350 g / mole, more preferably greater than or equal to 400 g / mole.

[0103] As hydrocarbon oil, we can particularly cite: - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin chosen from polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof, Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include rice bran, sunflower, corn, castor, olive, sweet almond, palm, barley oils; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel. Mention may also be made of coco-caprylate / caprate, for example sold under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, distinct from fatty acid monoesters (d) as defined above, such as oils of formula R3COOR4, in which R3 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R4 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R3 + R4 is greater than or equal to 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name “Finsolv TN” or “Witconol TN” by the company Witco or “Tegosoft TN” by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name “X-Tend 226” by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate,oleyl erucate or (Z)-Octadec-9-enyl (Z)-docos-13-enoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, citrates, such as the C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid ester of C1-C6 alcohols with the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example, the one marketed under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale as well as linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - dimer diol and dimer diacid esters, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, more particularly chosen from the esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and mixtures thereof, - fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name “Eldew SL205” from Ajinomoto, - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and possibly unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as behenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids C19-C22, - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC” by the company Cognis.

[0104] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 1% to 40% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of non-silicone oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] A composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more solid fatty substances, i.e. having a melting point above 25°C and in particular chosen from waxes, in particular vegetable waxes, and pasty compounds. Wax(s)

[0106] As waxes having a melting point above 25°C which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: - camauba wax, - Candelilla wax, in particular the commercial reference Candelilla Wax SP 75 G from the company Strahl & Pitsch, - lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins, oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof, - rice bran wax, - Ouricury wax, - Alfa wax, - cork fiber wax, - sugar cane wax, - Japanese wax, - sumac wax, - montan wax, - orange wax, in particular that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - laurel wax, - sunflower wax, - mimosa wax - lemon wax, - olive wax, - berry wax, - beeswax, in particular that marketed under the name White Beeswax SP 453P by the company Strahl & Pitsch or Cerabeil Lor by the company Baerlocher, - buckwheat wax, in particular that marketed by the company Codif, - fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, in particular the mixture of three waxes jojoba esters & helianthus annus seed wax & acacia decurrens extract and polyglyceryl, in particular the product marketed under the name Hydracire S or Acticire® by the company Gatefossé, - and / or their mixtures.

[0107] According to one embodiment of the invention, a composition according to the invention contains at least one wax, notably chosen from beeswax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof. Aqueous phase

[0108] The aqueous phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least water mixed or not with one or more water-soluble solvents.

[0109] The amount of aqueous phase may range from 65% to 99% by weight, preferably from 65% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 90%, better still from 75% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 55% by weight, better still at least 60% by weight, even better still at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol. Polyols

[0111] For the purposes of the invention, the term polyol means: - a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions; or - a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, such as for example polyethylene glycols (PEG) having 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.

[0112] Preferably, the polyol(s) have a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.

[0113] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12, and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0114] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythrityl, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol.

[0115] Among these polyols, glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof are preferably chosen.

[0116] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, in particular are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythrityl tetrahydrofuran, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0117] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0118] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 15% by weight. weight, preferably from 2% to 12% by weight, better still from 3% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise polyglyceryl-3.

[0120] The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of a composition according to the invention may further contain a hydrophilic or amphiphilic gelling agent. Hydrophilic or amphiphilic gelling agents

[0121] This hydrophilic or amphiphilic gelling agent may in particular be chosen from hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers, amphiphilic acrylic polymers, polysaccharides, gums and mixtures thereof. a) Hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers

[0122] According to the invention, the expression “hydrophilic acrylic homopolymers” means in particular non-hydrophobic and non-amphiphilic acrylic homopolymers.

[0123] According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer comprises at least one monomer carrying a sulfonic group.

[0124] The homopolymers that can be used in accordance with the invention are homopolymers that can be obtained from an ethylenically unsaturated monomer carrying a sulfonic group, which can be in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form. Preferably, the homopolymers are partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized.

[0125] In the present invention, the term "neutralized" means homopolymers which are totally or virtually totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.

[0126] The homopolymers that can be used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 1,000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol.

[0127] These homopolymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. The monomers carrying a sulfonic group of the homopolymer used in the composition of the invention are in particular chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido alkyl (C1 to C22) sulfonic acids, N-alkyl (C1 to C22) (meth)acrylamido alkyl (C1 to C22) sulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also the partially or completely neutralized from these, and their mixtures.

[0128] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers bearing a sulfonic group are chosen from (meth)acrylamido alkyl (C 1 to C 22 ) sulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid, and 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also the partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), and also partially or fully neutralized forms thereof, are used.

[0130] When the homopolymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by free radical polymerization.

[0131] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the homopolymer.

[0132] The homopolymer of monomers bearing a sulfonic group can be crosslinked with one or more crosslinking agents.

[0133] Preferred AMPS® homopolymers are generally characterized in that they comprise, randomly distributed:

[0134] a) from 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (I) below:

[0135] [Chem.l]

[0136] in which X+ denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, not more than 10 mol% of the X+ cations being optionally H+ protons;

[0137] b) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of crosslinking units derived from at least one monomer containing at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined in relation to the total weight of the homopolymer.

[0138] The homopolymers according to the invention which are more particularly preferred comprise from 98% to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (I) and from 0.2% to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

[0139] A homopolymer of this type which may be mentioned in particular is the crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer sold by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide). b) Amphiphilic acrylic polymers

[0140] Such polymers may be derived from the AMPS® products described above.

[0141] These polymers comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain. They are therefore amphiphilic polymers.

[0142] A fatty chain of such a polymer may comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0143] The AMPS® copolymers suitable for the invention may have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 100,000 to 8,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 100,000 to 7,000,000 g / mol.

[0144] The AMPS® copolymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or not crosslinked.

[0145] Among the crosslinking agents suitable for use, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).

[0146] The degree of crosslinking can range from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and in particular from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

[0147] An amphiphilic AMPS® polymer suitable for the invention may be chosen, for example, from random amphiphilic AMPS® polymers modified by reaction with a C6 to C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154.

[0148] These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their alkyl-substituted derivatives or their esters obtained with mono- or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, itaconic acid and maleic acid, or their mixtures.

[0149] A polymer suitable for the invention may be chosen from amphiphilic polymers of AMPS® and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0150] The hydrophobic part can be a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched (e.g. isostearic) or cyclic (e.g. cyclododecane or adamantane).

[0151] An ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer which is suitable for the invention may be chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (II) below:

[0152] [Chem.2] 2 R (ii)

[0153] in which: R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl), Y denotes O or NH; R2 denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0154] The hydrophobic radical R2 is chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear C7 to C22 alkyl radicals (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched alkyl radicals (for example isostearic) or cyclic alkyl radicals (for example cyclododecane or adamantane); C7 to C18 alkylperfluoro radicals (for example the group of formula (CH2)2(CF2)9-CF3); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester, for example cholesteryl hexanoate; aromatic polycyclic groups, for example naphthalene or pyrene.

[0155] Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are more particularly preferred.

[0156] In particular, the hydrophobic radical R2 may also comprise at least one alkylene oxide unit and in particular a polyoxyalkylene chain.

[0157] A polyoxyalkylene chain may be formed from ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and more particularly may be formed only from ethylene oxide units.

[0158] The number of moles of oxyalkylene units can generally vary from 1 to 30 mol, more particularly from 2 to 25 mol and even more particularly from 3 to 20 mol.

[0159] Among the amphiphilic polymers of AMPS® which are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0160] - neutralized or non-neutralized, crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS® units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8 to C16) alkyl (meth)acrylamide units or (C8 to C16) alkyl (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 750 899; - terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS® units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-alkyl (C6 to C[8]) acrylamide units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent US-A-5,089,578.

[0161] As amphiphilic polymers suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of AMPS® and alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0162] As amphiphilic polymers suitable for use in the invention, mention may also be made of copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS® and n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and / or n-octadecyl methacrylate, and also of copolymers of AMPS® and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, which may be crosslinked or not.

[0163] Mention may also be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic copolymers comprising, or even formed from:

[0164] - 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid units (AMPS®) of formula (III) below :

[0166] wherein X may be a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion; - and patterns of formula (IV) below:

[0167] [Chem.4] O-(CH2CH2O)n-(CH2CH(CH3)O)pR

[0168] in which: n and p, independently of each other, denote a number of moles and vary from 0 to 30, in particular from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 3 to 20, provided that n + p is less than or equal to 30, in particular less than 25 and more particularly less than 20; R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl), and R3 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 7 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0169] In formula (III), the cation X may more particularly denote sodium or ammonium. In particular, mention may be made of non-crosslinked polymers for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, R1 denotes methyl and R3 represents a mixture of C12 to C14 or Cm to Cm alkyl, and

[0170] - non-crosslinked polymers for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, R1 denotes methyl and R3 represents a mixture of C16 to C18 alkyl.

[0171] These polymers are described and synthesized in document EP 1069142.

[0172] A polymer in accordance with the invention may be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral or organic base.

[0173] The concentration in molar percentage of the units of formula (III) and of the units of formula (IV) in an amphiphilic polymer suitable for the invention can vary depending on the desired cosmetic application, the nature of the emulsion (oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation.

[0174] It can vary between 0.1 and 99.9 mol%.

[0175] The distribution of monomers in the polymers suitable for the invention may be, for example, alternating, sequenced (including multi-sequenced) or statistical (random).

[0176] As a guide, and without this being limiting, the following commercial references may be mentioned: Aristoflex® HMS and Aristoflex® HMB sold by Clariant, these two references relating to crosslinked polymers.

[0177] Aristoflex® HMS is the name of the 80 / 20 AMPS® / cetearyl methacrylate copolymer, ethoxylated (25 EO), crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearate-25 methacrylate crosspolymer as INCI name. As INCI name, Aristoflex® HMB is ammonium acryloyldhne-thyltaurate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

[0178] It is also possible to use, as hydrophobic AMPS copolymer, non-crosslinked AMPS® copolymers (Aristoflex® LNC or SNC), which are also effective in terms of stabilizing emulsions.

[0179] As INCI name, Aristoflex® LNC is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer.

[0180] As INCI name, Aristoflex® SNC is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer.

[0181] Among the acrylic polymers suitable for the invention, mention may also be made of neutralized crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers.

[0182] As preferred hydrophilic gelling agents according to the present invention, mention may be made of ammonium polyacryloyl-dimethyl taurate, also known under the trade name, Hostacerin AMPS®, and commercially available from the supplier Clariant. It is also described as poly(acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid) (AMPS®) partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked.

[0183] Other hydrophilic gelling agents advantageous for the present invention are copolymers of AMPS® and polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate (optionally crosslinked), and mixtures thereof such as ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, available under the trade names Aristoflex HMS; ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, available under the trade names Aristoflex SNC; and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, available under the trade names Aristoflex AVC, Aristoflex JQD, Hostacerin SAF, all commercially available from the supplier Clariant. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one hydrophilic acrylic homopolymer.

[0184] According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked and neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer.

[0185] According to a more preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate.

[0186] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, of hydrophilic or amphiphilic gelling agents relative to its total weight.

[0187] c) Gums, polysaccharides and carboxyvinyl polymers

[0188] "Polysaccharides" contain a backbone of repeating sugar (i.e., carbohydrate) units.

[0189] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, 1 ' hydroxy methyl cellulose, hydroxy ethyl cellulose, 1 ' hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, micro-cellulose crystalline, sodium cellulose sulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0190] Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also suitable. Among the alkylhydroxyalkylcellulose ethers, mention may be made of the raw material designated as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, namely a mixture of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose ether. This raw material is notably sold under the brand name Natrosol® CS Plus from Aqualon Corporation. Other polysaccharides include starch derivatives (e.g., starch oxide, starch dialdehyde, dextrin, British gum, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch).

[0191] As celluloses, mention may in particular be made of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains, such as the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C[8] alkyl) marketed by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company Croda.

[0192] Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may also be made of celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as hydroxyethyl celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl groups, in particular C8-C22, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and celluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol ether of alkyl phenol groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonyl phenol) sold by the company Amerchol.

[0193] Celluloses and derivatives may also be sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Akzo Nobel, under the name Methocel™ (cellulose ethers) and Ethocel™ (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, under the names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), Blanose™ (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminai® (Methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Hercules Aqualon.

[0194] The polysaccharide polymers suitable for the invention may be chosen from xanthan gums, guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Xanthan gums are for example sold under the name Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries) maceutical), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® (for example KELTROL® CG) by the company CP-Kelco.

[0195] Guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the names Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin, under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name VISCOGUMTM by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aqualon.

[0196] Other suitable polysaccharides include scleroglucan gums comprising a linear chain of (1-3)-linked glucose units with a (1-6)-linked glucose every three units.

[0197] Scleroglucan gum is for example sold under the name Amigel by the Alban Muller company, or under the name Actigum™ CS by the Cargill company.

[0198] Mention may also be made of the mixture of xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum sold under the name Actigum™ VSX 20 by the company Cargill.

[0199] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the gelling agents suitable for the invention are chosen from cellulose, xanthan gum, guar gum, scleroglucan gum and mixtures thereof.

[0200] According to another embodiment of the invention, the gelling agents suitable for the invention may be chosen from modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as, for example, the products marketed under the names Carbopol® (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen® (CTFA name: Acrylates / C 10-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Goodrich.

[0201] According to one embodiment of the invention, the gelling agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic active ingredients and adjuvants

[0202] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain one or more active agents and adjuvants chosen in particular from cosmetic active agents, sunscreens, colorants, pearlescent agents, pigments, perfumes, preservatives, pH adjusters, film-forming agents, etc.

[0203] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0204] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen in particular from: - vitamins and their derivatives; - active ingredients known for their anti-aging properties; - desquamating active ingredients; - active ingredients for firmness; - sunscreens; and - their mixtures.

[0205] A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 20% by weight and even better still from 0.01% to 15% by weight of active ingredient(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition

[0206] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0207] It can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment or a milk.

[0208] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. This may be the skin of the face and / or the body, in particular the face and / or the neck and / or the hands.

[0209] The composition according to the invention may comprise all the constituents usually used in the application and topical administration envisaged.

[0210] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed after application.

[0211] The composition according to the invention provides long-lasting hydration, in particular hydration for a period of 12 hours or more, to the keratin material to which it is applied, in particular the skin of the face and / or body, in particular the face and / or neck and / or hands. Uses and methods

[0212] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection, and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.

[0213] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratin material.

[0214] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0215] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0216] Topical administration involves the external application to the skin of com cosmetic positions according to the usual techniques of use of these compositions.

[0217] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention.

[0218] According to one embodiment, the application is repeated daily (at least once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 21 days.

[0219] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0220] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0221] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are “expressed as % of raw material”, more precisely as % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. Methods and Measurements Raw materials

[0222] In the examples below the compounds are identified by their INCI name:

[0223] “SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE” is marketed under the name AMISOFT® HS 11 PF by the company AJINOMOTO;

[0224] “MYRISTIC ACID” is marketed under the name DUB AC 14-98% by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS;

[0225] “BEHENYL ALCOHOL” is marketed under the name LANETTE 22 by the company BASF;

[0226] “CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS” is marketed under the name SP CRODAMOL MS MBAL-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA;

[0227] “POLYGLYCERYL-6-DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) HE-LIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (and) CETYL ALCOHOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEEWAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (and) ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX” is a product marketed under the name ACTIMELLI by the company GATTEFOSSE;

[0228] “POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE” is marketed under the name ISOLAN GI 34 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0229] “GLYCERIN” is marketed under the name ECOCEROL by the company ECOGREEN OLEOCHEMICALS;

[0230] “SQUALANE” is marketed under the name NEOSSANCE SQUALANE by the company AMYRIS;

[0231] “CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE” is marketed under the name MIGLYOL 812 N production by the company CREMER OLEO;

[0232] “HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE” is marketed under the name STRUCTURE ZEA by the company AKZO NOBEL;

[0233] “AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE” is marketed under the name HOSTARECIN AMPS by the company CLARIANT;

[0234] “LINOLEIC ACID (and) OLEIC ACID (and) LINOLENIC ACID” is marketed under the name DUB OMEGA 6 by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS; Methods 1. Stability control protocol

[0235] The stability assessment protocol is detailed below:

[0236] A composition is prepared, then stored at different temperatures:

[0237] i) at room temperature ii) at 4°C in a refrigerator The composition is then evaluated as follows:

[0238] - at t = 24 h, the pH and viscosity of the composition are measured, the appearance, the color and the odor of the composition are characterized, and the composition is observed under a microscope at a magnification of x 10 (Leica brand), under white light and polarized light,

[0239] - at t = 2 months the pH and viscosity of the composition are measured, the appearance, the The color and odor of the composition are characterized, and the composition is observed under a microscope at 10x magnification, under white light and polarized light.

[0240] The microscopic appearance and the macroscopic appearance of the composition must remain identical or even close to the initial appearance characterized at t = 24 h. The composition must remain smooth, homogeneous, without release, without phase separation and without change of color or odor.

[0241] 2, Protocol for characterizing the properties of the Iplaytime application)

[0242] The application evaluation protocol is detailed below:

[0243] 50.0 pL of a composition to be evaluated are taken using a micropipette of Eppendorf type, equipped with a 0.5 mL combitips, then applied to a SKIN FX type support (Sheet Medium Back K6 Languette® from Axon Cable SAS) (support simulating elastomer skin). The deposit is spread with the fingers on the support with 15 circular movements, then the stickiness and slipperiness of the deposit are evaluated a first time (by the user with the index and middle fingers). After 15 seconds, the deposit is spread again with 15 circular movements, the stickiness and slipperiness (if playtime) of the deposit are evaluated a second time. The user's fingers are then rinsed with a cloth moistened with warm water, then the deposit is evaluated a third time at t = 120 seconds.

[0244] The characteristics of the deposit are evaluated according to the following scale, always compared to bare skin:

[0245] [Tables 1] Slippery Very slippery 5 Slippery 4 Neutral 3 Slightly slippery 2' Very slightly slippery 1 Example 1: Preparation of compositions

[0246] Composition II according to the invention and composition C1 outside the invention are prepared according to the protocol described below with the nature of the ingredients and their respective quantities are given in table 2. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preparation of compositions II and Cl:

[0247] In a beaker, the components of phase A are weighed and then heated to a temperature ranging from 75 to 80 °C. The medium is stirred slowly using a rotor / stator (300 rpm). The components of phase B are weighed in a cup. When phase A is at the desired heating temperature, phase B is sprinkled into phase A, and stirring is gradually increased to 4000 rpm. The emulsion obtained is left stirring for 5 min, then the microscopic of the medium is checked, the emulsion must be medium and homogeneous. The heating is then stopped, then phase C is weighed and gradually added to the medium. The emulsion obtained is cooled with a cold water bath, then phase D is added at 25 °C, the temperature of 30 °C must not be exceeded during this step.

[0248] [Tables2] Phase Composés II Cl A Eau 35 35 SODIUM STE AROYL GLUTAMATE LOÛ 1,00 MYRISTIC ACID 0,3 - Conservateurs 0,é3 0.65 BEHENYL ALC OHOL 1,00 1,00 CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS 2,00 2,00 POLYGLYCERYL-6-DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) HELL ANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (and) CETYL ALCOHOL (and) PGLYGLYCERYL-3 BEEWÀÏ (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (and) ACA-CIA DECURRENS ELOWER WX 4,59 4,50 POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE 1,00 1,00 Antioxydants 0,55 0,55 GLYCERIN 7,00 7,00 SQUALANE. 2,00 2,00 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 4,00 4,00 B HYDROXYPROPYL STARŒPHO- PHATE LOÛ 1,00 Actif soin 0,1 0,1 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDL METHYL TAURATE 1 1,00 C Eau 7 '7 '7 38 D Chélatant 0,20 0,20 LINOLEIC ACID (and) OLEIC ACID (and) LINOLENIC ACID LOû L00 Effets sensoriels Glissant pendant la Ie- application 4 pendant la 2““® application 3 1

[0249] Composition II, containing myristic acid, has satisfactory slip on the first application, the slippery nature of this composition is retained during the second application, demonstrating an optimal absorption speed.

[0250] On the contrary, composition Cl, outside the invention, has an acceptable slip during the first application, which becomes very insufficient during the second application, making the application difficult, unpleasant for the user, and indicating absorption too fast of the composition by the skin. Example 2: Stability

[0251] Compositions II according to the invention and Cl outside the invention were prepared according to example 1.

[0252] The two compositions were then tested according to the protocols previously described above in the “Methods and measurements” section.

[0253] Table 3 below details the results obtained for stability control.

[0254] [Tables3] Composition II (seta FinventHm) Cl (bers invention) Macroscopic observation of the composition refrigerated at 4SC after 2 months The cream is white, smooth, homogeneous and shiny - on the surface and in the sample. White cream and smooth on the surface. Non-smooth, inhomogeneous cream with the presence of grains in the sample. Microscopic observation in polarized light of the composition refrigerated at 4*C after 2 months Isotropic Anisotropic

[0255] Composition II according to the invention is stable, in the sense that no significant change in its properties is observed, even after storage for 2 months at 4°C.

[0256] On the contrary, composition Cl, outside the invention, presents a non-smooth and inhomogeneous mixture after 2 months of storage at 4°C, it is therefore unstable.

[0257] It follows from these examples that only the composition according to the invention has both stability and advantageous sensory properties, in particular easy and optimal spreading.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising - at least one ester of polyglycerol and C8-C24 fatty acid(s) and having less than 11 glycerol units; - myristic acid and - at least linoleic acid.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which said ester of polyglycerol and C8-C24 fatty acid(s) is chosen from esters resulting from the esterification of a polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably from esters resulting from the esterification of a polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 4 glycerol units and / or from the esterification of a polyglycerol comprising from 8 to 10 glycerol units by at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and even better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty acid(s) is / are chosen from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and caprylic acid.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said ester of polyglycerol and fatty acid(s) is chosen from esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 4 glycerol units by at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid comprising from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and preferably chosen from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid and linoleic acid.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said ester of polyglycerol and fatty acid(s) is chosen from polyglyceryl-2-Oleate, polyglyceryl-4-Isostearate and their mixtures.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 1.5% by weight of myristic acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim further comprising linolenic acid.

8. Composition according to the preceding claim in which said linoleic and linolenic acids are used in the form of vitamin F.

9. Composition according to claim 7 or 8, comprising from 0.3 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 4% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight of linoleic acid and linolenic acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least 1% by weight, preferably from 1.2 to 5% by weight of ester(s) of polyglycerol and of C8-C24 fatty acid(s) and having less than 11 glycerol units.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising - at least one non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one unsaturated ester and at least one diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol and - at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols with a linear and saturated carbon chain containing from 14 to 26 carbon atoms.

12. Composition according to claim 11, wherein said ester-type nonionic surfactant(s) comprise: i) at least one unsaturated ester of formula (A): R'-C(O)-O-R2 (A): wherein: R1 and R2 represent, respectively, a C[8 to C44 fatty chain, at least R1 or R2 is unsaturated, preferably monounsaturated; and ii) at least one diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol of formula (B): R3-C(O)-(O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2)nOC(O)-R4 (B): wherein: n = 2 to 6 R3 and R4 represent, respectively, a linear or branched C[8 to C44 saturated fatty chain.

13. Composition according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that said non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprises at least PO-LYGLYCERYL-6-DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, comprising from 3.5 to 6.5% by weight, preferably from 4 to 6% by weight, better still from 4.5 to 5.5% by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s) of ester type relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A composition according to any one of claims 11 to 14, wherein said fatty alcohol non-ionic surfactant(s) is C16 to C22 and comprises at least cetyl alcohol.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 11 to 15 comprising from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.15 to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.2 to 1% by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s) of alcohol type relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 11 to 16 wherein said non-ionic surfactants of ester type and alcohol type are used in the form of a mixture.

18. Cosmetic process for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17.

19. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17 in the cosmetic field, and in particular for preventing and / or treating symptoms linked to dryness problems on keratin materials.

20. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17 in the cosmetic field, and in particular for repairing and strengthening the skin barrier.