Method for treating human perspiration and associated composition

Abstract

Method for treating human perspiration and associated composition The present invention relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, magnesium chloride, salicylic acid or one of its derivatives, and at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester. It also relates to the associated method. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Method for treating human perspiration and associated composition

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and possibly body odors resulting from perspiration, as well as an associated cosmetic composition.

[0002] The armpits, as well as certain other parts of the body, are generally the site of several discomforts which may come directly or indirectly from the phenomena of perspiration. These phenomena often cause unpleasant and annoying sensations which are mainly due to the presence of sweat resulting from perspiration which can, in certain cases, make the skin damp and wet the clothes, in particular in the area of ​​the armpits or the back, thus leaving visible traces. Furthermore, the presence of sweat can cause the release of body odors which are most of the time unpleasant. Such discomforts must be taken into account, including in the case of moderate perspiration.

[0003] In the cosmetic field, it is thus well known to use, in topical application, deodorant products containing substances which have the effect of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat and remedying the problems mentioned above. These products are generally available in the form of roll-on, sticks, aerosol or spray.

[0004] There are also antiperspirant compositions on the market, which generally comprise aluminum and / or zirconium chlorohydrates. These substances make it possible to reduce the flow of sweat by forming a plug in the sweat duct.

[0005] However, the use of these substances at high concentrations in order to obtain good efficacy leads to formulation difficulties. In addition, it has been found that the antiperspirant efficacy of these substances is limited when used alone. This implies that these substances need to be applied several times to the skin in order to obtain a satisfactory effective antiperspirant effect.

[0006] Finally, these antiperspirant substances can also leave traces when applied, which can result in staining clothes.

[0007] To overcome all of the drawbacks mentioned above, it has been proposed to search for other effective active substances, well tolerated by the skin and easily formulated.

[0008] Among the recently developed approaches is the use of magnesium oxide (MgO) in various galenic forms: this active ingredient has proven its deodorant effectiveness, but as far as antiperspirant effectiveness is concerned, the formula remains to be improved.

[0009] Another axis is that described in WO2019 / 072831: this application describes a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and possibly body odors resulting from perspiration, which comprises the use of at least one cation Xn+ of valence n, at least one anion Y'" of valence m and at least one modulating agent. However, not all the cations and anions described are equivalent, and the galenics needed to be improved.

[0010] There is therefore a real need to implement on the skin an agent intended for the treatment of human perspiration which does not have all of the drawbacks described above, that is to say which confers a satisfactory deodorant effect and antiperspirant effect, in particular in terms of efficacy and resistance to sweat, and which is well tolerated by the skin, preferably at physiological pH, that is to say close to pH 5.5. In addition, there is a need for such a deodorant agent intended for the treatment of human perspiration, which is easily formulable, non-irritating, and which is stable during storage.

[0011] The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that this objective can be achieved with an aqueous composition comprising magnesium chloride (MgCl2), salicylic acid or one of its derivatives, and at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester. Advantageously, the composition may further comprise dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) and xanthan gum. The composition obtained is easy to formulate and stable, and has deodorant, antiperspirant and anti-white mark effectiveness.

[0012] The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, magnesium chloride (MgCl2), salicylic acid or one of its derivatives, and at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4), xanthan gum, and at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated mono- or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form.

[0013] By "cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium" is meant an aqueous medium compatible with the skin and / or its appendages or mucous membranes which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate discomfort (such as tightness) likely to discourage the consumer from using this composition.

[0014] Said cosmetically acceptable medium is also a medium which does not leave traces when applied, and thus does not stain clothing.

[0015] Said cosmetically acceptable medium is aqueous, i.e. comprises an aqueous phase.

[0016] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and possibly body odors resulting from perspiration (hereinafter "process according to the invention"), comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the skin.

[0017] The present invention finally relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and body odors resulting from perspiration (hereinafter “process 2 according to the invention”), which comprises:

[0018] (i) either the mixture just before use of at least one composition A and at least at least one composition B, said compositions A and B being packaged separately followed by application of the resulting mixture to the surface of the skin;

[0019] (ii) either the application to the surface of the skin simultaneously or sequentially of at least one composition A and at least one composition B packaged separately;

[0020] (iii) either the application to the surface of the skin of a composition comprising in the same support at least one composition A and at least one composition B; - said composition A comprising in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium at least magnesium chloride (MgCl2); - said composition B comprising in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium at least dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4); - said composition A and / or said composition B comprising xanthan gum; - said composition A and / or said composition B comprising capryloyl salicylic acid; - said composition A and / or said composition B comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester, preferably a citric acid ester, preferably triethylcitrate; and - said composition A and / or said composition B also comprising at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated mono- or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form.

[0021] By "sequential" is meant successive administration.

[0022] By "same support" is meant that compositions A and B according to the invention are present in the same packaging, in particular two-compartment packaging which allows the simultaneous application of compositions A and B. Composition

[0023] The composition according to the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, magnesium chloride (MgCl2), dipotassium phosphate (K2 HPO4), xanthan gum, capryloyl salicylic acid and at least one modulating agent chosen from mono- or polycarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, in free or salified form. AQUEOUS PHASE

[0024] The composition comprises an aqueous phase (also called cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium). It is notably formulated as an aqueous gel.

[0025] The aqueous phase of the composition contains water and generally other water-soluble or miscible solvents. Water-soluble or miscible solvents include short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and sorbitol, preferably 1,2-propylene glycol.

[0026] Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 30% by weight of water-soluble or miscible solvent(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 4% to 22% by weight.

[0027] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 55% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight. Preferably, the composition comprises from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 55% to 85% by weight, preferably from 55% to 80% by weight. Magnesium chloride (MgCl2)

[0028] Magnesium chloride (MgCl2) is a water-soluble salt. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble salt" means any salt which, after being completely dissolved with stirring at 0.5% in a water solution at a temperature of 25°C, results in a solution comprising an amount of insoluble salt of less than 0.05% by weight. Magnesium chloride (MgCl2) notably comprises the cation Mg2+.

[0029] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase and preferably has a pH of between 2 and 6, preferably between 4 and 6. If necessary, the pH is adjusted with a cosmetically acceptable acid or base, organic or mineral. Such an acid and such a base are those conventionally used in cosmetics.

[0030] Preferably, the composition comprises magnesium chloride in a content of between 1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3 and 25% by weight, preferably between 5 and 20% by weight. Salicylic acid or one of its derivatives

[0031] The composition according to the invention comprises salicylic acid or one of its derivatives.

[0032] The salicylic acid derivatives according to the invention are preferably lipophilic derivatives. By lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid is meant any derivative of salicylic acid which is not soluble at 1% by weight in water and at 25°C.

[0033] The salicylic acid derivatives are preferably of the following formula (I):

[0034] [Chem.l]

[0035] in which R denotes a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated, linear or branched chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (A) halogen atoms (B) the trifluoromethyl group, (C) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (D) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0036] as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

[0037] Preferably, R denotes a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated, linear or branched chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (A) halogen atoms (B) the trifluoromethyl group, (C) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (D) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0038] as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

[0039] Preferably, R is a linear or branched C3-C11 alkyl group.

[0040] Among the particularly preferred compounds of formula (I), mention may be made of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptyloxy-5-salicylic acid and their corresponding salts.

[0041] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises salicylic acid or n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, advantageously comprises N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

[0042] The salts of the compounds of formula (I) can be obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. As an example of a mineral base, mention may be made of alkali or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia.

[0043] Among the organic bases, mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2,607,498 are particularly interesting.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 0.5% by weight, of salicylic acid or one of its derivatives.

[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises capryloyl salicylic acid (also called 2-hydroxy-5-(l-oxooctyl)benzoic acid). This compound is a deodorant active ingredient.

[0046] In the context of the present invention, the term "deodorant active" means any active which, on its own, has the effect of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat.

[0047] Preferably, the capryloyl salicylic acid is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.05 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Alpha-hydroxy acid ester or alpha-hydroxy acid ester

[0049] As their name suggests, alpha-hydroxy acid esters are alpha-hydroxy acid esters (or alpha hydroxy acid esters, α-hydroxy acids or AHA esters). An alpha-hydroxy acid ester for the purposes of the invention is an organic carboxylic acid in which a hydroxy group is attached to the atom of carbon in the alpha position of the acid. The generic structure of these esters can be represented by the following formula (I): (Ra) (Rb) C(OH)COORc (I)

[0050] wherein Ra and Rb are independently selected from the group consisting of H, F, Cl, I, Br, a saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomeric, straight or branched chain or cyclic alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group having 1 to 29 carbon atoms, and furthermore Ra and Rb may carry an OH, CHO, COOH and alkoxy group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. Rc is a saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomeric, straight or branched chain or cyclic alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group having 1 to 19 carbon atoms, and

[0051] in which the ester may be found, as a stereoisomer, under the D, L and DL forms when Ra and Rb are not identical, and

[0052] wherein when the ester contains two or more carboxyl groups the ester can be found in partial or total ester form. Examples that may be mentioned are monoethyl tartrate, diethyl tartrate, monoethyl citrate, diethyl citrate and triethyl citrate.

[0054] Thus, when Ra and Rb are alkyl, they may be independently selected from one of the groups of C1-C5, C6-C10, C11-C15, C16-C20, C21-C25 and C26-C29. When Rc is alkyl, it may belong to one of the groups C1-C5, C6-C10, C11-C15 and C16-C19. In various embodiments, Ra, Rb and Rc are independently selected from C1 to C12. Preferably, the alkyl, aralkyl and aryl groups for Ra, Rb and Rc are independently selected from: methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl, hexadecyl, benzyl and phenyl.

[0055] Non-limiting examples of alpha-hydroxy acids that can be esterified include, but are not limited to: mandelic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, hydroxycapric acid and combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is selected from citric acid triethyl ester (triethyl citrate), malic acid diethyl ester (diethyl malate), tartaric acid diethyl ester (diethyl tartrate), lactic acid ethyl ester (ethyl lactate) and mixtures thereof.

[0056] The alpha-hydroxy acid esters are advantageously chosen from: (i) hydroxy acid alkyl esters, (ii) hydroxy acid aralkyl or aryl esters, (iii) polyhydroxy acid esters, (iv) hydroxy poly acid esters, (v) polyhydroxy poly acid esters, and mixtures thereof. Esters d'alkyle d'hydroxyacide

[0057] Examples of hydroxy acid alkyl esters include, but are not limited to: 2-hydroxyethanoic acid esters (glycolic acid esters), for example, methyl glycolate, ethyl glycolate, and propyl glycolate; 2-hydroxypropanoic acid esters (lactic acid esters), for example, methyl lactate, ethyl lactate, propyl lactate, etc.; 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid esters (methyllactic acid esters), for example, methyl methyllactate, ethyl methyllactate, and propyl methyllactate; 2-hydroxybutanoic acid esters, for example, methyl alpha-hydroxybutanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxybutanoate and propyl alpha-hydroxybutanoate; 2-hydroxypentanoic acid esters, for example, methyl alpha-hydroxypentanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxypentanoate and propyl alpha hydroxypentanoate;2-hydroxyhexanoic acid esters, for example, methyl alpha-hydroxyhexanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxyhexanoate and propyl alpha-hydroxyhexanoate; 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid esters, for example, methyl alpha-hydroxyheptanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxyheptanoate and propyl alpha-hydroxyheptanoate; 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid esters, for example, methyl alpha-hydroxyoctanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxyoctanoate and propyl alpha-hydroxyoctanoate; 2-hydroxynonanoic acid esters, for example, methyl alpha-hydroxynonanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxynonanoate and propyl alpha-hydroxynonanoate; 2-hydroxydecanoic acid esters, e.g., methyl alpha-hydroxydecanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxydecanoate, propyl alpha-hydroxydecanoate;2-hydroxyundecanoic acid esters, for example, methyl alpha-hydroxyundecanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxyundecanoate, and propyl alpha-hydroxyundecanoate; 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid esters (alpha-hydroxylauric acid esters), for example, methyl alpha-hydroxylaurate, ethyl alpha-hydroxylaurate, and propyl alpha-hydroxylaurate; 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid esters (alpha-hydroxymyristic acid esters), for example, methyl alpha-hydroxymyristate, ethyl alpha-hydroxymyristate, and propyl alpha-hydroxymyristate; 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid esters (alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid esters), for example methyl alpha-hydroxypalmitate, ethyl alpha-hydroxypalmitate and propyl alpha-hydroxypalmitate;2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid esters (alpha-hydroxystearic acid esters), for example, methyl alpha-hydroxy stearate, ethyl alpha-hydroxy stearate and propyl alpha-hydroxystearate; 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid esters (alpha-hydroxyarachidonic acid esters), for example, 2-hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid esters (cerebronic acid esters); methyl cerebronate, ethyl cerebronate and propyl cerebronate; and 2- acid esters; hydroxytetraeicosenoic acid (esters of alpha-hydroxynervonic acid), e.g., methyl alpha-hydroxynervonate, ethyl alpha-hydroxynervonate, and propyl alpha-hydroxynervonate. Aralkyl or aryl esters of hydroxy acids

[0058] Examples of aralkyl or aryl esters of 2-hydroxycarboxylic acid include, but are not limited to: 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid esters (mandelic acid esters), for example, methyl mandelate, ethyl mandelate and propyl mandelate; 2,2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid esters (benzilic acid esters), for example, methyl benzilate, ethyl benzilate and propyl benzilate; 3-phenyl2-hydroxypropanoic acid esters (phenyllactic acid esters), for example, methylphenyllactate, ethylphenyllactate and propylphenyllactate; and 2-phenyl-2-methyl-2-hydroxyethanoic acid esters (atrolactic acid esters), e.g., methyl atrolactate, ethyl atrolactate, and propyl atrolactate. Polyhydroxy acid esters

[0059] Non-limiting examples of polydroxyacid esters include: 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid esters (glyceric acid esters), e.g., methyl glycerate, ethyl glycerate, propyl glycerate, benzyl glycerate, phenyl glycerate, etc.; 2,3,4-trihydroxybutanoic acid esters (isomers; erythronic acid esters, threonic acid esters), e.g., methyl erythronate, ethyl erythronate, methyl threonate, and ethyl threonate; 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentanoic acid esters (isomers; ribonic acid esters, arabinoic acid esters, xylonic acid esters, lyxonic acid esters), e.g., methyl ribonate, ethyl ribonate, methyl arabinoate, ethyl arabinoate, methyl xylonate, ethyl xylonate, methyl lyxonate and ethyl lyxonate; 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoic acid esters (isomers;allonic acid esters, altronic acid esters, gluconic acid esters, mannoic acid esters, gulonic acid esters, idonic acid esters, galactonic acid esters, talonic acid esters), for example, methyl allonate, ethyl allonate, methyl altronate, ethyl altronate, methyl gluconate, ethyl gluconate, methyl mannoate, ethyl mannoate, methyl gulonate, ethyl gulonate, methyl idonate, ethyl idonate, methyl galactonate, ethyl galactonate, methyl talonate and ethyl talonate; 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid esters (isomers; glucoheptonic acid esters, galactoheptonic acid esters, etc.), for example, methyl glucoheptonate, ethyl glucoheptonate, methyl galactoheptonate and ethyl galactoheptonate; glyceruronic acid esters, for example, glyceruronate; methyl, ethyl glyceruronate and propyl glyceruronate; erythruronic acid esters, for example, methyl erythruronate, ethyl erythruronate and propyl erythruronate; threuronic acid esters, for example, methyl threuronate, ethyl threuronate and propyl threuronate; riburonic acid esters, for example, methyl riburonate, ethyl riburonate and propyl riburonate; arabinuronic acid esters, for example, methyl arabinuronate, ethyl arabinuronate and propyl arabinuronate; xyluronic acid esters, for example, ethyl xyluronate, ethyl xyluronate and propyl xyluronate; lyxuronic acid esters, for example, methyl lyxuronate, ethyl lyxuronate and propyl lyxuronate; alluronic acid esters, for example, methyl alluronate, ethyl alluronate and propyl alluronate;altruronic acid esters, for example, methyl altruronate, ethyl altruronate and propyl altruronate; glucuronic acid esters, for example, methyl glucuronate, ethyl glucuronate and propyl glucuronate; mannuronic acid esters, for example, methylmannurate, ethylmannurate and propylmannurate; guluronic acid esters, for example, methyl guluronate, ethyl guluronate and propyl guluronate; iduronic acid esters, for example, methyl iduronate, ethyl iduronate and propyl iduronate; galacturonic acid esters, for example, methyl galacturonate, ethyl galacturonate and propyl galacturonate; and taluronic acid esters, for example, methyl taluronate, ethyl taluronate and propyl taluronate. ; Hydroxypolyacid esters

[0060] Examples of hydroxypolyacid esters include, but are not limited to: 2-hydroxypropane-1,3-dioic acid esters (tartronic acid esters), for example, methyl tartronate, ethyl tartronate, and propyl tartronate; 2-hydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid esters (malic acid esters), for example, monomethyl malate, dimethyl malate, monoethyl malate, diethyl malate, monopropyl malate, and dipropyl malate; 2,3-dihydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid esters (tartaric acid esters), e.g., monomethyl tartrate, dimethyl tartrate, monoethyl tartrate, diethyl tartrate, monopropyl tartrate and dipropyl tartrate;and 3-hydroxy-3-carboxypentane-1,5-dioic acid esters (citric acid esters), for example, monomethyl citrate, dimethyl citrate, trimethyl citrate, monoethyl citrate, diethyl citrate, triethyl citrate, monopropyl citrate, dipropyl citrate and tripropyl citrate, or tributyl citrate. ; Polyhydroxypolyacid esters

[0061] Examples of polyhydroxypolyacid esters include, in particular: 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexane-1,6-dioic acid esters (and its isomers; saccharic acid or glucaric acid esters, mucic acid or galactaric acid esters), for example, monomethyl glucarate, dimethyl glucarate, monoethyl glucarate, monopropyl glucarate, dipropyl glucarate, monomethyl galactarate, dimethyl galactarate, monoethyl galactarate, diethyl galactarate, and dipropyl galactarate.

[0062] Preferably the alpha-hydroxy acid ester or esters are chosen from lactic acid esters, methyllactic acid esters, tartaric acid esters, citric acid esters, glycolic acid esters, malic acid esters, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from monoethyl tartrate, diethyl tartrate, monoethyl citrate, diethyl citrate, triethyl citrate, diethyl malate, ethyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] The content by weight of alpha-hydroxy acid ester(s), on the total weight of the composition of the invention is advantageously in the range of 0.1 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 50%, preferably from 1 to 20%, and even more preferably from 1 to 15%, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4)

[0064] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention also comprises dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4). This dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) is also a water-soluble salt. The dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) comprises in particular Fanion HPO42.

[0065] Preferably, the composition comprises dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) in a content of between 1 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3 and 20% by weight, preferably between 5 and 15% by weight.

[0066] The weight ratio between magnesium chloride and dipotassium phosphate preferably varies from 3:1 to 1:1, preferably from 2:1 to 1:1, and more preferably from 1.5:1 to 1:1. Modulating agent

[0067] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated mono- or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form.

[0068] Preferably, the polycarboxylic acids are chosen from di- and tricarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated. Such hydroxylated carboxylic acids are also called hydroxy acids.

[0069] Preferably, the modulating agent is chosen from propionic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, itaconic acid and mixtures thereof, in free or salified form.

[0070] Preferably, the modulating agent is chosen from tricarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, preferably from hydroxylated tricarboxylic acids.

[0071] The optionally hydroxylated mono- or polycarboxylic acids are present in the composition in free form or in salified form.

[0072] When present in salified form, they may be present in the form of an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt, preferably in the form of a sodium or potassium salt.

[0073] Preferably, the modulating agent is a mixture of an optionally hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in free form and an optionally hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in salified form.

[0074] Preferably, the modulating agent is a mixture of a hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in free form and a hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in salified form.

[0075] Preferably, the modulating agent is a mixture of citric acid and sodium citrate.

[0076] Preferably, the modulating agent is present in the composition in a content of between 0.1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 1 and 4% by weight. Anionic thickener

[0077] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one anionic thickener, preferably xanthan gum.

[0078] Preferably, the anionic thickener is chosen from natural anionic gums, carrageenans, pectins, phosphated starches and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers. The natural anionic gums are in particular xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan and gellan gum.

[0079] Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of [3-D-glucoses linked in [3(1,4), similar to cellulose. Every second glucose molecule carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of a [3-D-mannose, a [3-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal [3-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues carry a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. Charged glucuronic acids and pyruvic acids are ionizable, and therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge up to pH 1).

[0080] Xanthan gums have a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000.

[0081] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXA E by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name NOVAXAN by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan and Keltrol by the company CP-Kelco.

[0082] The anionic thickener may also be a xanthan derivative, of the dehydroxanthan type.

[0083] Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolysaccharide based on oligoside units composed of 4 oses (tetra-oside). D-glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in proportions 2:1:1 are present in gellan gum as monomeric elements.

[0084] For example, it is sold under the name KELCOGEL CG LA by the company CP KELCO.

[0085] Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by α(1,3) and β(1,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in 3,6-anhydro form.Depending on the number and position of ester-sulfate groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans which have one ester-sulfate group, iota-carrageenans which have two ester-sulfate groups and lambda-carrageenans which have three ester-sulfate groups. Carrageenans are mainly composed of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and sulfate esters of polysaccharides.

[0086] Carrageenans are marketed in particular by the company Seppic under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the name Carragel®, Carralact®, and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill, under the names SATIAGEL and SATIAGUM, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names GENULACTA®, GENUGEL® and GENUVISCO®.

[0087] Pectins are linear polymers of α-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked in positions 1 and 4, with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. Approximately 20% of the sugars constituting the Pectin molecules are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). L-rhamnose residues are found in all pectins, integrated into the main chain in positions 1,2. Uronic acid molecules have carboxyl functions. This function gives pectins the ability to exchange ions, when these are in the -COO form.

[0088] The anionic thickener can also be a phosphated starch. In particular, by crosslinking starch with phosphorus compounds, monostarch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO-(OX)2 type), distarch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am type) or even tristarch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am type) or mixtures thereof can be obtained. Am denotes starch, and X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonia salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, omithine or citrulline. In particular, phosphated starch is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, marketed under the name Structure XL by Nouryon.

[0089] The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids with α,[3-ethylenic unsaturation or their esters, with at least one monomer (b) with ethylenic unsaturation comprising a hydrophobic group.

[0090] The term "copolymers" means both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0091] In particular, among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® in inverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM by the company BASF.

[0092] The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers. For the purposes of the present application, the term “(meth)acrylic” means “acrylic or methacrylic”. For example, mention may be made of those sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer or by 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L or Synthalen® M. Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, we can particularly mention Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / Cio-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) marketed by the company Lubrizol.

[0093] Preferably, the anionic thickener according to the invention is xanthan gum.

[0094] The anionic thickener, preferably xanthan gum, is present in the composition in a content of between 0.1 and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.8 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preservatives and other additives

[0095] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one preservative and / or at least one additive.

[0096] Among the preservatives, mention may in particular be made of phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, benzyl alcohol and their mixtures. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least phenoxyethanol.

[0097] The additive may be any usual additive in the cosmetic field, such as for example a perfume or a filler.

[0098] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, by weight relative to the total weight of composition:

[0099] at least 55% by weight of water;

[0100] magnesium chloride (MgCl2) in a content of between 1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3 and 25% by weight, preferably between 5 and 20% by weight;

[0101] dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) in a content of between 5 and 20%, preferably between 6 and 15% by weight, preferably between 7 and 12% by weight;

[0102] between 0.05 and 5% by weight of capryloyl salicylic acid, preferably between 0.08 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight;

[0103] from 0.05 to 50% by weight of citric acid ester, preferably from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, better still from 1 to 5%, preferably triethylcitrate, optionally at least one preservative, preferably phenoxyethanol;

[0104] between 0.01 and 5% by weight of citric acid, preferably between 0.05 and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, or even between 1 and 3% by weight;

[0105] between 0.05 and 5% by weight of sodium citrate, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 2% by weight; and

[0106] between 0 and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.7 and 1.5% by weight of xanthan gum. Application process

[0107] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and possibly body odors resulting from perspiration (hereinafter "process according to the invention"), comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the skin.

[0108] The present invention finally relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and possibly body odors resulting from perspiration (hereinafter “process 2 according to the invention”), which comprises:

[0109] (i) either the mixture just before use of at least one composition A and at least at least one composition B, said compositions A and B being packaged separately followed by application of the resulting mixture to the surface of the skin;

[0110] (ii) either the application to the surface of the skin simultaneously or sequentially of at least one composition A and at least one composition B packaged separately;

[0111] (iii) either the application to the surface of the skin of a composition comprising in the same support at least one composition A and at least one composition B; - said composition A comprising in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium at least magnesium chloride (MgCl2); - said composition B comprising in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium at least dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4); - said composition A and / or said composition B comprising at least one anionic thickener, preferably chosen from natural anionic gums, preferably xanthan gum; - said composition A and / or said composition B comprising salicylic acid or one of its derivatives, preferably capryloyl salicylic acid; and - said composition A comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester, preferably a citric acid ester, preferably triethyl citrate; - said composition A and / or said composition B also comprising at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated mono- or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form.

[0112] To obtain an antiperspirant effect on the skin, according to a first variant of method 2 according to the invention (embodiment (i)), composition A and composition B are packaged separately and are mixed just before use (extemporaneous mixing) then the mixture thus obtained is applied to the surface of the skin to be treated.

[0113] According to a second variant of method 2 according to the invention (embodiment (ii)), composition A and composition B are packaged separately and applied simultaneously or sequentially to the surface of the skin to be treated. According to this variant, when compositions A and B are applied sequentially, the time interval separating the application of composition A from application B can vary from 1 second to 24 hours, more preferably from 1 second to 1 hour and even more preferably from 1 second to 1 minute.

[0114] According to a third variant of method 2 according to the invention (embodiment (iii)), a composition comprising in the same support composition A and composition B is applied directly to the surface of the skin. In this embodiment (iii), compositions A and B may for example be packaged in a device comprising at least two compartments respectively containing composition A and composition B such as a twin tube, a pump bottle with two compartments, an aerosol device comprising two compartments which may comprise one or more outlet orifices (single-nozzle or double-nozzle), a device provided with an openwork wall such as a grid comprising two compartments; a device comprising two compartments each provided with a roll-on applicator (multi-ball roll-on); a double-stick.

[0115] Preferably, compositions A and B are applied simultaneously.

[0116] Preferably, the invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration, and optionally of body odors linked to human perspiration, comprising the application to the surface of the skin, in particular to the surface of the armpits, an effective amount of composition A and an effective amount of composition B.

[0117] The application time of composition A and / or B on the surface of the skin may vary from 0.5 to 10 seconds, preferably from 1 to 5 seconds. Compositions A and B may be applied several times to the surface of the skin. They may be applied several times, over one day or over several days.

[0118] Preferably, the invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration, and body odors linked to human perspiration, comprising the simultaneous application to the surface of the skin, in particular to the surface of the armpits, of composition A and composition B. DOSAGE FORMS

[0119] The composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used for topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic gels, or in the form of aqueous sticks (i.e. solids).

[0120] Preferably, it is in the form of an aqueous gel or aqueous stick (i.e. solid).

[0121] It can also, by adding a fatty or oily phase, be in the form of dispersions of the lotion type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or even multiple emulsions (W / O / W or W / O / O), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of the ionic and / or non-ionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0122] The composition may in particular be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump bottle; packaged in a device provided with an openwork wall, in particular a grid; packaged in a device provided with a ball applicator (roll-on); packaged in the form of sticks, in the form of loose or compacted powder. In this respect, it contains the ingredients generally used in this type of product and well known to those skilled in the art.

[0123] According to another particular form of the invention, the composition may be solid, in particular in the form of a stick; in the form of a loose or compacted powder.

[0124] By "solid composition" is meant that the measurement of the maximum force measured by texturometry when a probe is inserted into the formula sample must be at least equal to 0.25 Newton, in particular at least equal to 0.30 Newton, in particular at least equal to 0.35 Newton, assessed under precise measurement conditions as follows:

[0125] the formulas are hot-poured into pots with a diameter of 4 cm and a base of 3 cm. Cooling is done at room temperature. The hardness of the formulas produced is measured after waiting for 24 hours. The pots containing the samples are characterized by texturometry using a texturometer such as that marketed by the company Rhéo TA-XT2, according to the following protocol: a stainless steel ball-type probe with a diameter of 5 mm is brought into contact with the sample at a speed of 1 mm / s. The measuring system detects the interface with the sample with a detection threshold equal to 0.005 newtons. The probe penetrates 0.3 mm into the sample, at a speed of 0.1 mm / s. The measuring device records the evolution of the force measured in compression over time, during the penetration phase. The hardness of the sample corresponds to the average of the maximum values ​​of the force detected during penetration, over at least 3 measurements.

[0126] The composition may also comprise at least one deodorant active ingredient and / or at least one additional antiperspirant active ingredient.

[0127] As an illustration of these additional deodorant active ingredients, mention may in particular be made of bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, l-(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (Triclocarban) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodec a-2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; polyols such as glycerin, 1,3-propanediol (ZEMEA PROPANEDIOL® marketed by Dupont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts), 1,2-decanediol (Symclariol® from Symrise); Glycerin derivatives such as Caprylic / Capric Glycerides (CAPMUL MCM® from Abitec), Glycerol Caprylate or Caprate (DERMOSOFT GMCY® and DERMOSOFT GMC® respectively from STRAETMANS), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (DERMOSOFT DGMC® from STRAETMANS), biguanide derivatives such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-Phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (SYMDEO MPP® from Symrise); cyclodextrins; or alum.

[0128] The additional deodorant active ingredients may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] As an illustration of additional antiperspirant active agents, mention may in particular be made of antiperspirant salts or complexes of aluminum and / or zirconium, preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with or without an amino acid such as those described in patent US-3792068.

[0130] Among the aluminum salts, mention may be made in particular of aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sulfate buffered by sodium and aluminum lactate.

[0131] Among the aluminum and zirconium salts, mention may be made in particular of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.

[0132] Complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known as ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products are the aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine complexes.

[0133] Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate is notably sold under the trade name REACH 301® by the company SUMMITREHEIS.

[0134] Among the aluminum and zirconium salts, mention may be made of complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as glycine having the INCI name: ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY, for example that marketed under the name REACH AZP-908-SUF® by the company SUMMITREHEIS.

[0135] More particularly, use will be made of aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form marketed under the trade names LOCRON S FLA®, LOCRON P, LOCRON L.ZA by the company CLARIANT; under the trade names MICRODRY ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE®, MICRO-DRY 323®, CHLORHYDROL 50, REACH 103, REACH 501 by the company SUMMITREHEIS; under the trade name WESTCHLOR 200® by the company WESTWOOD; under the trade name ALOXICOLL PF 40® by the company GUILINI CHEMIE; CLURON 50%® by the company INDUSTRIA QUIMICA DEL CENTRO; CLOROHIDROXIDO ALUMINIO SO A 50%® by the company FINQUIMICA. As another antiperspirant active ingredient, expanded perlite particles such as those obtained by the expansion process described in US patent 5,002,698 may be mentioned.

[0136] Preferably, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of aluminum salt, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight. Preferably, it is completely free of aluminum salt.

[0137] Throughout the description, including the claims:

[0138] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0139] In the description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are weight percentages. The percentages are therefore expressed by weight relative to the total weight of composition (% w / w). The temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0140] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below. Examples Example 1#: Compositions

[0141] The aqueous gel formulas below were prepared by mixing in water. Several solvents were evaluated in the type A gels for the purpose of solubilizing capryloyl salicylic acid in water in the presence of MgCl2. Capryloyl acid Salicylic acid (in powder form) was premixed with either TRIETHYL CITRATE, ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE, or DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL. B gels were then used to evaluate the feasibility of struvite with A gels.

[0142] [Tables 1] NÔM-iNCkB AÏS A23 A3 *3 A4*3 A5*b BIS B25 WATER- / -AQIW QSP-iœs QSP-1D0H QSPTOOH QSP-10&K QSP-1003 QSP-iOOK QSP-1D3H CAPRYLOYL-SALICYLIC-ACIDï 0.23 O.2K 0.23 0.23 0.23 C.2K Tl TRIETHYL- LH HA; Eft 0.83 1.23 Ts sS =3 =3 “h ISOPROPYL- MYRiSTATEK *5 1.23 0.63 c3 =3 =3 DiPRQPYLE^E- GLYCO1H Tl 'E 1.23 “S MAGNESSUM-CHLORIDEA 203 203 203 203 203 s3 '3 CITRATES 1.443 1.443 1.443 1.443 "3 Tl s3 17.23 17.23

[0143] Example 2: Solubility, stability and struvite formation tests

[0144] The solubility, stability of gels A and then the formation of struvite of a type A gel with a type B gel are evaluated.

[0145] [Tables2] Test Al! A2S A3*E A4*S A5*H 813 823 Solubility^ {OK / -NDK)3 0» OKH recristslhse-à'fnjîcta NOK--recrystalfce-à-hoîds NOK^ recri stsHîse-à-frcsîdB CO geies Stability-! M< [OK / -HOK)H Ofô OKH 0^3 OKK OKS =OKs OK'H StabiSté-2M- 45°£-+; Okay! OK3 OK-but-yellow-coloring OKS OKB "ORS OKsS Struvite-formed-pari •A-+-B-—' fOK / -NOKÏH 0^(02-+-81)^ GK-(A2-+*82)H 53 OK-^ (A5* -+-61)3 0K-(A2-+- ÔK-(A5*' +-81)3 -04142-- 82 [3

[0146] Only formulas A1 and A2 according to the invention, using an alpha hydroxy acid ester (triethyl citrate) are both: solubilized, stable, and allow the formation of struvite after mixing with a type B gel, this struvite formation mechanism, participates in situ in reducing the flow of sweat in the sweat canal.

[0147] Formulas A1 and A2 are therefore according to the invention, while formulas A3*, A4* and A5* are comparative (no alpha hydroxy acid ester, such as triethylcitrate).

[0148] Example 3: Evaluation of antibacterial performance

[0149] [Tables3] NomINCm G1*s G 2 G2*TECa W ATERs QSP-1QDQ Q5P-100S QSP-100S MAGNESIUM CHLORIDEs io.œs 1 0.00s DIPOTASS1UM PHOSPHATES 8.6Ûs 8.6Go 8.60g CITRIC ACIDs 1.51s L51q 1.5 la Xanthangums G, 90O 0.90S 1, Goa Sodium Curates 0.72g 0.72S 0.72S Phenoxyethanols 0.50s 0.50s 0.50s Caprylôyl Smicylic Acids A 0.20S 0.2 Go Triethyl Citrates G 0.60A S microorganisms Growth-control^ Control-EU SetiMe-detections Time- GFh G2 + TEQ3 7.585 2.305 05 7.505 7.55 7.45 7.545 2.305 25 7.205 2.35 1.35 7.563 55 6.703 -Wh NCfS 8.453 2.305 245 5.505 Ws ND“3

[0150] The evaluation of the antimicrobial properties of the formulas Gl*, G2*, and G2+TEC of example 3 was carried out according to the following protocol:

[0151] In a suitable culture medium, the biocidal effect of the formulas is evaluated on the strains of interest after 2h, 6h and 24h of contact in comparison with a placebo (i.e. medium without formula). At each contact time, the logarithmic reduction in the number of viable microorganisms is measured.

[0152] The “axillary odor” model strain is:

[0153] Corynebacterium freneyi CIP 52.16 (formerly Corynebacterium xerosis)

[0154] This strain is brought into contact with the formula to be tested in a culture medium in the following proportions:

[0155] - 10% of the inoculum at 108 germs / ml,

[0156] - 10% of the formula to be tested, and

[0157] - 80% culture medium (Trypcase Soy broth).

[0158] In parallel, a growth indicator, in which the formula is replaced by a diluent, is prepared under the same conditions.

[0159] The samples are placed in an incubator at a temperature of 35°C (optimal growth temperature for the strain) with continuous agitation during the test.

[0160] After 2, 6 and 24 hours of contact time, the number of viable microorganisms remaining in the mixture is evaluated.

[0161] The results are expressed as the logarithm of the number of microorganisms per milliliter of mixture.

[0162] The result obtained with the formula to be tested is compared to the results of the growth control and the difference is expressed in number of Log difference at T 24 hours.

[0163] The count (Log UFC / ml) for the 24-hour control is greater than 8 (approximately 8.5).

[0164] The count (Log UFC / ml) for G1 * at 24h is approximately 5.5.

[0165] The count (Log UFC / ml) for G2* from 2 hours is approximately 2.3 (= threshold of detection).

[0166] The count (Log UFC / ml) for G2+TEC from 2 hours is approximately 1.3.

[0167] Comparing the G2+TEC formula and the G2 formula, it appears that the activity The antimicrobial performance of G2 is significantly improved by the addition of TEC. With the G2+TEC formula according to the invention, all bacteria are killed in less than 2 hours.

[0168] The G2+TEC formula according to the invention thus exhibits very good antimicrobial activity.

[0169] Example 4: Evaluation of deodorant performance

[0170] The evaluation of the deodorant properties of the formulas of example 4 is carried out according to the following protocol:

[0171] METHODOLOGY

[0172] Panel: 18 panelists trained for objective evaluation. Performance verified for repeatability, discrimination and homogeneity

[0173] Volunteers: 18 volunteers with armpits and strong axillary odor

[0174] Application: 7 days multi-application wash (4) Random product application

[0175] Quantity applied per day: 0.4g ± 0.05 roll-on & stick

[0176] 1.2 g ± 0.05 aerosol

[0177] Evaluation: intensity of bad odor, description of bad odor and intensity of fragrance.

[0178] At T0, T4 and T24h after the 4th application. Sequential monadic.

[0179] The results show the following values:

[0180] The gel formulas below were prepared by mixing in water: Formula Ex4 is according to the invention, while formulas Cpl to Cp3 are comparative.

[0181] [Tables4] INCI US Cpl Cp 2 Cp 3 Ex 4 WATER 76.47 75.87 76.27 75.67 MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 DIPOTASSIUM PHOSPHATE 8.60 8.60 8.60 8.60 CITRIC ACID 1.51 1.51 1.51 1.51 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 MOT24: Bad - odor at T=24h 5.19 4.80 4.71 4.02

[0182] The composition of Ex4 according to the invention has the lowest malodor intensity measured at 24 hours (MOT24 = 4.02), and therefore has significantly superior anti-odor performance: - to that of Cp3 not including TEC (MOT24 = 4.71), - to that of Cp2 not including capryloyl salicylic acid (MOT24 = 4.80), - to that of Cpl not including capryloyl salicylic acid, nor TEC, (MOT24 = 5.19).

[0183] The composition of Ex4 according to the invention also has an anti-odor performance significantly superior to that of a commercial product comprising 7% aluminum salts (MOT24 = 4.20), tested according to the same protocol (commercial reference of the product: SANEX Dermo Tolérance pH Balance 24h Anti-Perspirant).

[0184] Example 5: Evaluation of antiperspirant efficacy

[0185] The gel formulas A2 and B2 below were prepared by mixing in water:

[0186] [Tables5] Ingredient Gel A 2 (% w / w) Gel B2 (% w / w) Magnesium chloride (MgCl2) 20 - Dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) - 17.2 Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 Triethyl citrate 1.2 Sodium citrate 1.44 Citric acid 0.02 3 Xanthan gum 1 1 Preservative 0.5 0.5 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 OBJECTIVE

[0187] Evaluate the level of antiperspirant efficacy of compositions Ex4 (Gel A2 + Gel B2) at 24h and 48h. PROTOCOL Panel#:

[0188] 28 subjects recruited (15 women, 13 men) Methodology#:

[0189] Gravimetric: Baseline, at D4 24h and 48h

[0190] Washing period: 21 days without antiperspirant / Neutral soap provided by L'Oréal Measurement conditions:

[0191] Sweating in a sauna at 38°C and relative humidity of 30 to 40%

[0192] Sweating time: 1h20 (preheating period: 40 minutes then 2 periods of 20 min collection).

[0193] 2 armpits treated

[0194] 4 controlled applications: 1 / day for 4 days

[0195] Total quantity applied (consumer-centric): 0.4 + / - 0.05g

[0196] Operating mode: double gesture

[0197] Apply formula A2 to the finger cot, spreading evenly over the hairy surface of the armpit, then immediately apply formula B2 in the same way. Drying time in a sitting position for 15 min.

[0198] Gravimetric evaluation of the quantity of sweat at baseline, then at D4 24h & 48h.

[0199] The same study was carried out with the comparative compositions Cp3 without TEC. RESULTS

[0200] Antiperspirant efficacy at 24 hours and 48 hours according to 2 types of calculations

[0201] The calculation is based on the ratios (Z) according to the FDA method and estimation of the relative difference:

[0202] [Math.l] PC Z»PT *1&0 £T

[0203] With:

[0204] PC = sweat weight at the untreated armpit baseline (NT)

[0205] PT = sweat weight at the armpit baseline obtained by mixing formulas “ Reference "

[0206] C = weight of sweat TX untreated armpit

[0207] T = TX armpit sweat weight obtained by mixing “Reference” formulas

[0208] Estimate of the relative difference in %:

[0209] [Math.2] CT Relative reduction (in %) -----* 100 = (1-exp(average of the difference))* 100

[0210] C = weight of sweat TX untreated armpit

[0211] T = TX armpit sweat weight obtained by mixing “Reference” formulas

[0212] The “Reference” formula mixture is obtained by mixing 2 formulas aqueous A and B comprising MgC12 and K2HPO4 respectively. Effectiveness scale#:

[0213] • Very effective: % reduction > 20% and more: 50% of the panel presents a % discount greater than 20% • Moderately effective: 10 < % reduction < 20% # • Low efficiency: 0 < % reduction <10%.#

[0214] [Tableauxô] Formula Estimate of the relative difference (%) vs. NT armpit Confidence index 95% CI / significant results 24H 48H Treated armpit Ex4 (A2 + B2) 15.4% 12.3% Cp3 11.5% 4%

[0215] The gravimetry test demonstrates that the composition of the invention Ex4 has antiperspirant efficacy at 24 hours (-15.4%) and at 48 hours (-12.3%). The antiperspirant efficacy of Ex4 is significantly higher than that of Cp3, especially at 48 hours.

[0216] Example 6: Evaluation of the anti-white mark effect Protocol#:

[0217] Objective: To evaluate the marking of an area treated with a composition according to the invention, in particular to evaluate the anti-trace effect of the composition Ex4 (see table 4) compared to an untreated area NT, after T30min and T7h. Panel#:

[0218] 24 women Methodology#:

[0219] Single application

[0220] Quantity applied: 0.2g + / - 0.05g (per product)

[0221] Wearing a T-shirt for 7 hours (in real life)

[0222] Baseline performed at T0: Images + image analysis of the white mark area, on the T-shirt

[0223] At T30min of wearing a T-shirt: image acquisition (8cm*12cm=96cm2

[0224] At T7h after wearing the T-shirt: Scoring of the color intensity of the white mark on a 10-point scale

[0225] Effectiveness criterion: white color intensity score <7

[0226] Product tested: composition Ex4 (composition defined above in table 4). Anti-white mark test result#:

[0227] [Tables7] Color intensity of white traces Significant Delta Score = S Tx-To T30min 2.4 + / - 0.4 S T7H 3.0 + / - 0.5 S

[0228] After 30 minutes, then after 7 hours, the intensity score of the white marks remains below 7 for composition Ex 4 according to the invention. This score is lower than those obtained. The composition of the invention therefore has good anti-white mark effectiveness.

[0229] The composition according to the invention has an anti-white mark effectiveness better than most products containing at least 10% ACH or aluminum salts.

[0230] Ultimately, the specific combination of ingredients of the composition according to the invention has an overall effectiveness since it not only makes it possible to optimize the solubility and stability of poorly soluble ingredients, such as capryloyl salicylic acid in the presence of MgC12, but also improves the deodorant effectiveness and even the antiperspirant effectiveness, which was completely unexpected. the proportion of ingredients (notably triethyl citrate) which, on their own and taken separately, have no antiperspirant effect a priori.

Claims

1.

2.

3.

4. Claims Composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium: a. magnesium chloride, b. salicylic acid or one of its derivatives, and c. at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises (a) magnesium chloride in a content of between 1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3 and 25% by weight, preferably between 5 and 20% by weight. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises (b) salicylic acid or one of its derivatives in a content in the range of 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.02 to 3%, preferably 0.05 to 2%, preferably 0.1 to 1%, preferably 0.15% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a salicylic acid derivative of formula (I): in which R denotes a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated, linear or branched chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (A) halogen atoms (B) the trifluoromethyl group, (C) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (D) a carboxyl function in the form free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, as well as their salts obtained by salification by a mineral or organic base, preferably the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is chosen from n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptyloxy-5-salicylic acid and their corresponding salts; preferably the composition comprises salicylic acid or n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, advantageously comprises N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises (c) one (or more) alpha hydroxy acid ester(s) in a content comprised in the range of 0.1 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 50%, preferably from 1 to 20%, and even more preferably from 1 to 15%, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which one or more alpha hydroxy acid ester(s) are selected from: hydroxy acid alkyl esters, hydroxy acid aralkyl or aryl esters, polyhydroxy acid esters, hydroxy polyacid esters, polyhydroxy polyacid esters, and mixtures thereof; preferably are selected from lactic acid esters, methyl lactic acid esters, tartaric acid esters, citric acid esters, glycolic acid esters, malic acid esters, and mixtures thereof; preferably are selected from monoethyl tartrate, diethyl tartrate, monoethyl citrate, diethyl citrate, triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, diethyl malate, ethyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises dipotassium phosphate, preferably in a content of between 1 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3 and 20% by weight, preferably between 5 and 15% by weight.

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the weight ratio between magnesium chloride and magnesium phosphate dipotassium is in the range of 3:1 to 1:1, preferably 2:1 to 1:1, and more preferably 1.5:1 to 1:

1.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated mono- or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form; the modulating agent preferably being chosen from propionic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, itaconic acid and mixtures thereof, in free or salified form; preferably the modulating agent is a mixture of a hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in free form and a hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in salified form; preferably the modulating agent is a mixture of citric acid and sodium citrate;preferably the modulating agent is present in the composition in a content of between 0.1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 1 and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.;

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one anionic thickener; preferably chosen from natural anionic gums, carrageenans, pectins, phosphated starches and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; preferably from xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan and gellan gum; preferably xanthan gum; preferably the anionic thickener is present in the composition in a content of between 0.1 and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.8 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition, preferably at least 55% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight; preferably, the composition comprises from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition, preferably from 55% to 85% by weight, preferably from 55% to 80% by weight.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: at least 55% by weight of water; magnesium chloride in a content of between 1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3 and 25% by weight, preferably between 5 and 20% by weight; dipotassium phosphate in a content of between 5 and 20%, preferably between 6 and 15% by weight, preferably between 7 and 12% by weight; between 0.05 and 5% by weight of capryloyl salicylic acid, preferably between 0.08 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight; from 0.05 to 50% by weight of citric acid ester, preferably from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, better still from 1 to 5%, preferably triethylcitrate;between 0.01 and 5% by weight of citric acid, preferably between 0.05 and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, or even between 1 and 3% by weight; between 0.05 and 5% by weight of sodium citrate, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 2% by weight; and optionally at least one preservative, preferably phenoxyethanol; between 0 and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.7 and 1.5% by weight of xanthan gum.;

13. Cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and possibly body odors resulting from perspiration, comprising the application of a composition according to one of the preceding claims to the skin.

14. Cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and body odor resulting from perspiration, which comprises: (i) either the mixing just before use of at least one composition A and at least one composition B, said compositions A and B being packaged separately followed by the application of the resulting mixture to the surface of the skin; (ii) or the application to the surface of the skin simultaneously or sequentially of at least one composition A and at least one composition B packaged separately; (iii) either the application to the surface of the skin of a composition comprising in the same support at least one composition A and at least one composition B; - said composition A comprising in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium at least magnesium chloride; - said composition B comprising in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium at least dipotassium phosphate; - said composition A and / or said composition B comprising at least one anionic thickener, preferably chosen from natural anionic gums, preferably xanthan gum; - said composition A and / or said composition B comprising salicylic acid or one of its derivatives, preferably capryloyl salicylic acid; and - said composition A comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester, preferably a citric acid ester, preferably triethyl citrate; - said composition A and / or said composition B also comprising at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated mono- or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form.