Composition comprising a peroxygenated salt, a fatty substance, an acrylic polymer and a direct dye

Abstract

Composition comprising a peroxygenated salt, a fatty substance, an acrylic polymer and a direct dye. The invention relates to a composition for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising one or more peroxygenated salts, one or more fatty substances present in a total content greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more acrylic polymer(s) and one or more direct dye(s). The invention also relates to a method for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application of the composition to said keratin fibers.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a peroxygenated salt, a fatty substance, an acrylic polymer and a direct dye

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular a composition for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising one or more peroxygenated salts, one or more fatty substances, one or more acrylic polymers and one or more direct dye(s).

[0002] The invention also relates to a process for lightening human keratin fibers using such a composition.

[0003] In the field of hair lightening, tone height is generally used to characterize the degree or level of lightening. The concept of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, a tone separating each shade from the one that immediately follows or precedes it. This definition and classification of natural shades is well known to hairdressing professionals and published in the book "Sciences of Hair Treatments" by Charles ZVIAK 1988, Ed. Masson, pp.215 and 278.

[0004] Tone heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blond), with one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.

[0005] Lightening thus makes it possible to provide a lighter tone height than the initial natural tone height of the hair.

[0006] The processes used to lighten hair generally consist of using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, in alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.

[0007] This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively low lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When a more significant lightening is desired, in particular a lightening of at least 5 tones, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates for example, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. These peroxygenated salts are contained in compositions which, at the time of use, are mixed with an aqueous composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0008] In order to adjust the pH of the compositions to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent, an alkaline agent is used. This alkaline agent also causes swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent inside the fiber, and therefore increases the efficiency of the reaction.

[0009] However, the use of alkaline agents and peroxygen salts can lead to a deterioration in the quality of the hair. The main causes of this deterioration in the quality of the hair are a reduction in its cosmetic properties, such as its shine, and a deterioration in its mechanical properties, more particularly a deterioration in its mechanical resistance which can also result in an increase in its porosity. The hair is weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as blow-drying. There is also an increase in frizz, which is unsightly.

[0010] Lightening dark hair is therefore particularly delicate because it requires the use of a significant quantity of peroxygen salts if you want to lighten it significantly, which can weaken it.

[0011] Furthermore, lightening compositions applied to very curly hair tend to modify the shape of the curls, which generally have less definition.

[0012] Furthermore, the compositions which contain peroxygenated salts are generally in powder form. However, since powdery compositions have the disadvantage of producing dust during their handling, transport and storage, compositions in paste form have been proposed. The powdery compounds are thus dispersed in a thickened organic inert liquid support which provides a solution to the volatility problems.

[0013] On the other hand, the implementation of the compositions in the form of paste causes new difficulties.

[0014] These pastes are generally anhydrous and their texture is compact and hard. As a result, mixing the paste and the hydrogen peroxide composition is far from easy. This results not only in a longer mixing time but also in difficulties in obtaining a homogeneous mixture that is stable.

[0015] Furthermore, the lightening compositions obtained may be difficult to distribute homogeneously over the entire head of hair, in particular on curly or frizzy hair, which may lead to unwanted non-uniform lightening performances.

[0016] Finally, these lightening treatments are generally accompanied by the appearance of unsightly yellow-orange reflections which we seek to minimize.

[0017] Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to provide compositions for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, which do not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. which are capable of leading to very good performance. lightening, with an aesthetic reflection, without altering the cosmetic properties of the hair, while having very good qualities of use, in particular by respecting the nature of the hair.

[0018] This aim and others are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a composition comprising: - one or more peroxygen salts; - one or more fatty substances present in a total content greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more acrylic polymer(s), and - one or more direct dye(s).

[0019] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human fibers, preferably hair.

[0020] The invention also relates to a lightening method using said composition, the use of the composition for lightening keratin fibres, and in particular hair, as well as a multi-compartment device, suitable for implementing said lightening composition.

[0021] The composition according to the invention leads to a significant level of lightening, up to 9 tones, more aesthetic, without major alteration of the cosmetic properties of the hair, and with improved qualities of use.

[0022] In particular, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a cream which mixes quickly and easily with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide to obtain a homogeneous and stable mixture. The mixture obtained is easily applied to the hair. Its galenic form in the form of a creamy cream makes it possible in particular to avoid dripping during application while spreading easily throughout the hair, even in very curly hair. In addition, the mixture does not dry out during the application time, which allows optimal availability of the active ingredients throughout the application time. In addition, the mixture is easily rinsed.

[0023] The cosmetic properties of the hair treated with the composition according to the invention do not present any major alteration, in particular in terms of softness and detangling. The composition makes it possible in particular to provide conditioning to the hair and to limit breakage of the hair during detangling, in particular the breakage of very curly hair. When applied to very curly hair, it also makes it possible to maintain the shape of the curls by giving them good definition. The composition also makes it possible to obtain good frizz control.

[0024] Finally, we obtain a significant lightening of the hair without unsightly yellow-orange reflections.

[0025] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent even more clearly when reading the description and examples that follow.

[0026] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0027] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0028] The terms "lightening" and "bleaching" are synonymous and may be used interchangeably. Peroxygen salts

[0029] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more peroxygenated salts.

[0030] Preferably, the peroxygenated salts are chosen from persulfates; perborates; peracids and / or their salts; percarbonates of alkali metals, alkali-earth metals, or ammonium; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

[0031] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one persulfate.

[0032] Persulfates, also called peroxysulfates, correspond, within the meaning of the invention, to the anions SO52 (peroxomonosulfate anion) or S2O82 (peroxo-disulfate anion) or to compounds comprising at least one of these anions.

[0033] Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from peroxodisulfates.

[0034] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one peroxygenated salt chosen from persulfates; preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even better from potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0035] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably still from 10 to 50% by weight, and even better from 20 to 45%, or even from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] Preferably, the total content of persulfate(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably still from 10 to 50% by weight, even better from 20 to 45%, or even from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty body

[0037] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances.

[0038] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane.

[0039] Advantageously, the fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0040] The fatty substances according to the invention are different from fatty acids and their salts.

[0041] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.

[0042] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.

[0043] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa). Solid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0044] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0045] More particularly, the liquid fatty body(ies) according to the invention are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] It is recalled that fatty alcohols and esters more particularly present at least a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0047] As regards the liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (INCI name ore oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

[0050] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] As regards the fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PCI” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; no-nafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by 3M Company.

[0052] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linolenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0054] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0055] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0058] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; trii- sopropyl; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0060] Suitable sugars that may be mentioned include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

[0061] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0062] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0063] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.

[0064] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0066] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0067] The silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably 1.105 to 1 m2 / s.

[0068] Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0069] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils which can be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from amino groups and alkoxy groups.

[0070] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0071] When they are volatile, the silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly still from:

[0072] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0073] Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0074] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0075] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.106 m2 / s at 25°C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name “SH 200” by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.

[0076] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.

[0077] These silicone oils are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard.

[0078] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the products com- following merchants: - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - MIRASIL® series oils marketed by RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 200 series oils such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0079] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

[0080] The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

[0081] As regards liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they may in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

[0082] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.105 to 5.102 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0083] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite as an example the products marketed under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; - BAYER PK series silicones such as PK20; - BAYER PN and PH series silicones such as PN1000 and PH1000 products - certain oils from the GENERAL ELECTRIC SF series such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0084] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in par- in particular C1 to C4 aminoalkyl groups; - alkoxylated groups, - hydroxyl groups.

[0085] The solid fatty bodies according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s *.

[0086] The solid fatty body(ies) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0088] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0089] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0090] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); ara-chidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0091] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0092] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0093] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0094] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.

[0095] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0097] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0098] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0099] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0100] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0101] Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0102] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0103] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0104] As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0105] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;we can cite in particular camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip; 519® and 519 L® by MICRO POWDERS.

[0106] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0107] Preferably, the waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and mixtures thereof.

[0108] More preferably, the waxes are chosen from polyethylene waxes, preferably from polyethylene waxes with a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, preferentially greater than or equal to 70°C, better still greater than or equal to 80°C, preferentially ranging from 85 to 150°C, better still from 90 to 120°C.

[0109] Among the polyethylene waxes that can be used, mention may be made in particular of that marketed under the name CIRE POLYETHYLENE AC 1702 by the company HONEYWELL, those marketed under the names PERFORMALENE® 500-L POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 400 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 655 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® SCRUB BEADS, PERFORMALENE® SE / 2 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 725 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 850 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 1000 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMA SW 100 SYNTHETIC WAX by the company NUCERA SOLUTIONS.

[0110] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

[0111] The ceramides or their analogues which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0112] RI denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0113] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is a integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0114] R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

[0115] The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.

[0116] Preferably, ceramides are used for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a ga-lactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0117] It is also possible to use compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0118] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)cetyl acid amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

[0119] The solid fatty bodies are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes and their mixtures, preferably from solid fatty alcohols, polyethylene waxes, and their mixtures.

[0120] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0121] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil, liquid fatty alcohols, and their mixtures.

[0122] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil.

[0123] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty alcohols, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil and at least one solid fatty substance, preferably at least one wax, more preferably at least one polyethylene wax.

[0125] The total content of the fatty substance(s) in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 22% by weight, preferentially greater than or equal to 25% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 28% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] Preferably, the total content of the fatty substance(s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 20 to 60% by weight, preferably from 22 to 50% by weight, preferentially from 25 to 40% by weight, better still from 28 to 35% by weight, even better still from 30 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] Preferably, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 20 to 60% by weight, preferably from 22 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 40% by weight, better still from 28 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms in a total content ranging from 20 to 60% by weight, preferably from 22 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 40% by weight, better still from 28 to 35% by weight, even better still from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Acrylic polymer

[0129] The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more acrylic polymer(s).

[0130] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "acrylic polymer" means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide.

[0131] The unit(s) derived from the (meth)acrylic acid monomers of the polymer may (may) possibly be in the form of salt(s), in particular of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or organic base.

[0132] The acrylic polymers capable of being used in the present invention may be chosen from: (a) acrylic associative polymers; (b) crosslinked homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylate; (c) non-ionic homo- and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and / or amide type; (d) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and ammonium acrylate-acrylamide copolymers; (e) homopolymers and copolymers of (meth)acrylamido alkyl(Cl C4) sulfonic acids; (f) crosslinked methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) trialkyl(Cl-C4) ammonium homopolymers and copolymers.

[0133] By "associative polymer" is meant according to the invention an amphiphilic polymer comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, in particular comprising at least one C8 C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.

[0134] The acrylic associative polymers according to the invention may be non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.

[0135] Preferably, the non-ionic associative polymers according to the invention are chosen from: - copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl (meth)acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for example oxyethylenated (C8-C22) alkyl acrylates) such as for example the methyl methacrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208; and - copolymers of hydrophilic (meth)acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for example alkyl (meth)acrylates (C8-C22)) such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0136] The anionic associative polymers according to the invention may be chosen from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl (C10-C30) ester type.

[0137] They are preferably chosen from those (i) whose hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (XIII) below: HX C — C OH (XIII) Oh in which R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units and (ii) whose hydrophobic unit of the unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester type corresponds to the monomer of formula (XIV) below: .....C......OR2 O in which R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, preferably H or CH3; and R2 denotes a C10-C30, preferably C12-C22, alkyl radical.

[0138] Alkyl esters (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0139] The anionic associative polymers according to the present invention may more particularly designate polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) either acrylic acid and one or more esters of the following formula (XV): —C— C OR2 (XV) R' 6 in which R1 denotes H or CH3; and R2 denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally a crosslinking agent, such as for example those consisting of 60 to 95% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 96 to 98% by weight of acrylic acid, 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, (ii) is essentially acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as that formed from 66% by weight of acrylic acid and 34% by weight of lauryl methacrylate.

[0140] As crosslinking agent, mention may in particular be made of polyallyl ethers such as in particular polyallylsucrose and polyallylpentaerythritol.

[0141] Among the above polymers, the products sold by the company GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN are particularly preferred. TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, and even more preferably PEMULEN TRI®, the product sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the trade name CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER) and the product sold by the company SEPC under the name COATEX SX®.

[0142] Among the anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, mention may also be made of copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0143] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3 -monoethylenic unsaturation and C1-C4 alcohol.

[0144] Examples include ACULYN 22® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or ACULYN 28® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER® sold by Lubrizol.

[0145] As anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, mention may also be made of the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated alcohol dimethylmetisopropenylbenzyl isocyanate copolymer, notably marketed under the name VI-SCOPHOBE DB 1000 by the company AMERCHOL.

[0146] As anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, mention may also be made of those comprising at least one acrylic monomer with sulfonic group(s), in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

[0147] The hydrophobic part present in the polymers of the invention preferably comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferentially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0148] Preferably, the sulfonic polymers in accordance with the invention are partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base (soda, potash, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0149] The sulfonic amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 1,000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000, and preferentially from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol.

[0150] The sulfonic amphiphilic polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. Preferably, crosslinked amphiphilic polymers are chosen.

[0151] When crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.Examples include divi-nylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol dia-crylatedi(meth)acrylate, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene bis-acrylamide, methylene bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxy-ethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar alcohols, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of acid derivatives phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0152] More particularly, methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA) will be used. The crosslinking rate generally varies from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

[0153] The acrylic monomers with sulfonic group(s) are chosen in particular from (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(Cl-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

[0154] More preferably, (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22) alkylsulfonic acids will be used, such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

[0155] More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or totally neutralized forms will be used.

[0156] The amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention may in particular be chosen from random amphiphilic polymers of AMPS modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives substituted in [3] or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0157] The preferred polymers of the invention are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and of at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 8 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0158] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain such as (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives substituted in [3] or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0159] The ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomers of these particular copolymers are preferably chosen from acrylates or acrylamides of the following formula (XVI): r, —CH.j """""Q.......... O^C Y--------------------------------FL in which R1 and R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y denotes O or NH; R2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical comprising at least 8 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, even better 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and varies from 0 to 100.

[0160] The radical R2 is preferably chosen from linear C6-C18 alkyl radicals (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl), branched or cyclic (for example cyclododecane (C12) or adamantane (C10)); C6-C18 perfluorinated al-alkyl radicals (for example the group of formula -(CH2)2-(CF2)9-CF3); the cholesteryl radical (C27) or a cholesterol ester residue such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; aromatic polycyclic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, linear alkyl radicals and more particularly the n-dodecyl radical are more particularly preferred.

[0161] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the monomer of formula (XIII) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x>1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylenated chain. The polyoxyalkylenated chain, preferably, consists of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consists of ethylene oxide units. The number of oxy-alkylenated units generally varies from 3 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50 and even more preferably from 7 to 25.

[0162] Among these polymers, we can cite: - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A750 899; - terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C18)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US-5089578.

[0163] Mention may also be made of copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate as well as non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.

[0164] Mention will be made more particularly of copolymers consisting of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units of the following formula (XVII): (XVII) ZX X I CK O MH----------CHMV x* CH, in which X+ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion,

[0165] and patterns of formula (XVIII) following: R (XVIII) CH2 ç ......... o=ç O--------------kCH^CH^O H--R, : x in which x denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80 and preferentially from 7 to 25; Ri has the same meaning as that indicated above in formula (XVI) and R4 denotes a linear or branched C6-C22 and preferentially C10-C22 alkyl.

[0166] Particularly preferred polymers are those for which x = 25, R 1 denotes methyl and R 4 represents n-dodecyl; polymers for which X+ denotes sodium or ammonium are more particularly preferred.

[0167] The cationic associative polymers according to the present invention may be chosen from polyacrylates with amino side groups.

[0168] Polyacrylates with amine side groups, quaternized or not, have for example hydrophobic groups of the steareth-20 type (stearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide) or alkyl(C10-C30)PEG-20 itaconate.

[0169] Examples of polyacrylates with amino side chains include polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 or STRUCTURE PLUS from the company NATIONAL STARCH.

[0170] The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention may be chosen from copolymers of methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid / C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl radical preferably being a stearyl radical.

[0171] (b) Among the crosslinked homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, mention may be made of: products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company GOODRICH or products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA.

[0172] Among the crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylate, mention may be made of the product sold under the name VISCOATEX 538C by the company COATEX which is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion at 38% Active Matter or the product sold under the name ACULYN 33 by the company ROHM & HAAS which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion at 28% Active Matter Active. Particular mention may be made of the crosslinked methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion manufactured and sold under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by the company NOVEON.

[0173] (c) Among the non-ionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the ester and / or amide type, we can cite the products sold under the names CYAN AMER P250 by the company CYTEC (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C by the company US COSMETICS (methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); ACRYLOID B 66 by the company RHOM & HAAS (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer); BPA 500 by the company KOBO (polymethyl methacrylate).

[0174] (d) Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers, the product sold may be mentioned under the name MICROSAP PAS 5193 by the company HOECHST.

[0175] Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, we can cite the product sold under the name BOZEPOL C NOUVEAU or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company HOECHST.

[0176] (e) Homo- or copolymers of (meth)acrylamido-alkyl(Cl-C4)-sulfonic acids are preferably crosslinked. More particularly, they are partially or completely neutralized. They are water-soluble or water-swellable polymers.

[0177] Among these polymers, we can cite in particular: -polyacrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid, -polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, -polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, -poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, -poly-2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, -poly-2-acrylamido-n-butane-sulfonic acid.

[0178] Polymers of this type and in particular crosslinked and partially or totally neutralized poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acids are known, described and prepared in patent application DE-19625810.

[0179] They are generally characterized by the fact that they include, randomly distributed: - from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of formula (A): ; CH, O 'nh-—Ç— ​​CKSO. / x* CH, in which X+ denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, including H+, and - from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one crosslinking unit having at least two olefinic double bonds, the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0180] Preferably, the crosslinked and neutralized poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid comprises from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (A) and from 0.5 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

[0181] Preferably, X+ represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to that of an alkaline earth metal or the ammonium ion.

[0182] Preferably, the crosslinking units having at least two olefinic double bonds are chosen from dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyl oxyethane or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, methylene bis acrylamide or divinylbenzene.

[0183] The crosslinking units having at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly chosen from those of the following general formula (B): r 1 (B) I o. I H,C < 'CH;-------------Q—CH. CH:, io I L .J 3 in which Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl and more particularly methyl (trimethylol propane triacrylate).

[0184] Crosslinked and partially or totally neutralized poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acids are generally known under the names "Ammonium Polycrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate" or "Ammonium Polyacryldimethyl-tauramide" (INCI name).

[0185] A particularly preferred product according to the invention is that sold by the company CLARIANT under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS; it is a crosslinked poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid partially neutralized by ammonia.

[0186] (f) Among the crosslinked homo- or co-polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) trialkyl(Cl-C4) ammonium, we can cite the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking by an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene-bis-acrylamide. Mention may more particularly be made of the crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymer (in particular 20 / 80 by weight), in particular in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is in particular marketed under the name SALCARE® SC 92 by the CIBA Company. Mention may also be made of the crosslinked rhomopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride, in particular in the form of a dispersion containing approximately 50% by weight of rhomopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names SALCARE® SC 95 and SALCARE® SC 96 by CIBA. Such polymers have the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.

[0187] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more acrylic associative polymers, more preferably one or more anionic acrylic polymers.

[0188] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) is(are) chosen from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers.

[0189] More preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) are chosen from polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of (C10-C30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type, the copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0190] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more acrylic polymer(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more associative acrylic polymer(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0192] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more acrylic polymer(s) chosen from anionic associative acrylic polymers, preferably from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers, in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Direct dyes

[0193] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct dye(s).

[0194] By "direct dye" we mean colored species. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber.

[0195] The direct dye(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from natural direct dyes, synthetic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0196] Preferably, the direct dye(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from ionic direct dyes and non-ionic direct dyes, more particularly from cationic direct dyes, amphoteric direct dyes, anionic direct dyes, non-ionic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0197] By "cationic direct dye" is meant any dye different from oxidation dyes, commonly called "basic" direct dyes or "basic dyes". They are said to be basic because of their affinity with acidic substances. They notably comprise in their structure at least one endo or exocyclic cationic or ca-tionizable group. In particular the charge can be carried by an aryl or heteroaryl group.

[0198] By "anionic direct dye" is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic direct dyes are dyes commonly called "acid" direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances.

[0199] The direct dyes are for example chosen from nitro-benzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro-(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine, xanthene direct dyes, natural direct dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0200] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes and their mixtures, preferably from tri(hetero)arylmethanes, better still from triarylmethanes.

[0201] Among the direct nitrobenzene dyes, we can cite: l,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, l-amino-2 nitro-4-B-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; l-amino-2 nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; l,4-bis(B -hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1 -B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(B-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; l,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-Amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Methoxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-P,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-fVhydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-mtrobcnzènc; lP-ammoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-(P-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-[>-hydroxycthylamino-2-nitrobcnzcnc; l-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

[0202] Parmi les colorants directs azoïques, on peut citer : Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0203] Parmi les colorants directs hydrazono, on peut citer : Basic Yellow 87.Parmi les colorants directs nitrés aryliques, on peut citer : HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N’-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-phenylenediamine.

[0204] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diamino-anthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-([3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Bine 16.

[0205] Among the direct azine dyes, we can cite: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2. Among the direct indoamine dyes, we can cite: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

[0206] Among the natural direct dyes, we can cite lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, pur-purogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.

[0207] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct dye(s) of triarylmethane structure.

[0208] In particular, the triarylmethane dye(s) of the invention may be anionic, cationic, neutral or zwitterionic.

[0209] Preferably, the direct dye(s) are chosen from triarylmethane dyes of formula (I): as well as their addition salts with an acid or a base, organic or mineral, their geometric, optical, tautomeric isomers, and their mesomeric forms, solvates such as hydrates; formula (I) in which A, B and C are the same or different, and represent a (hetero)aryl group such as optionally substituted phenyl, represents a single bond or double bond.

[0210] The direct dyes of formula (I) can thus be cationic, anionic, non-ionic or zwitterionic.

[0211] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the triarylmethane dye(s) are cationic.

[0212] Preferably, the triarylmethane direct dye(s) according to the invention are cationic dyes of the following formulae (Ha) and (Il'a): as well as its addition salts with an acid or a base, organic or mineral, its geometric, optical, tautomeric isomers, and its mesomeric forms, its solvates such as hydrates:

[0213] Formulas (Ha) and (Il'a) in which: * R1, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (Cl-C6)alkyl group, preferably by a hydroxy group; aryl such as phenyl, Aryl(Cl-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, heteroaryl, heteroaryl(Cl-C4)alkyl, or two groups Rb and R2, and / or R3 and R4, carried by the same nitrogen atom, form together with the nitrogen atom which carries them an optionally substituted heterocycloalkyl group such as morpholino, piparazino, piperidino, preferably RB R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (Cl-C4)alkyl group; * R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, Rio, Ru, Ri2, Ri3, Ru, Rb, and R[6, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, halogen, or a group chosen from i) hydroxy, ii) thiol, iii) amino iv) (di)(Cl-C4)(alkyl)amino, v) (di)arylamino such as (di)phenylamino, vi) nitro, vii) acylamino (-NR-C(O)R') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a C1-C2 alkyl radical; viii) carbamoyl ((R) 2N-C(O)-) in which the radicals R, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group; ix) carboxylic acid or ester, (-OC(O)R') or (-C(O)OR'), in which the radical R' is a hydrogen atom, or C1-C4 alkyl optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a C1-C2 alkyl radical; x) alkyl optionally substituted in particular by a hydroxyl group; xi) alkylsulfonylamino (R'SO2-NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical; xii) aminosulfonyl ((R)2N-SO2-) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group, xiii) (Cl-C4)alkoxy, and xiv) (Cl-C4)alkylthio; * Or two radicals carried by two contiguous carbon atoms R5 and R6 and / or R7 and R8, and / or R9 and R10 and / or Rn and Rn and / or Rn and RM and / or Rn and R[6 form together with the carbon atoms which carry them a condensed 6-membered aryl or heteroaryl ring, preferably benzo, said ring possibly being further optionally substituted, preferably an unsubstituted benzo ring; * Q represents an anionic counterion to achieve electroneutrality, preferably chosen from halides such as chloride, bromide, and phosphate.

[0214] According to a preferred embodiment, the triarylmethane dye(s) is / are chosen from those of formula (IIa) or (II'a), in which, taken together or separately, -Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, - R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, Rio, Rn, Ri2, Rb, Ru, Rb, and R[6 represent a hydrogen atom, halogen, such as chlorine, or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, an amino group, a (di)(Cl-C4)(alkyl)amino group and, preferably, at least one of the groups R9, R10, Rn or Rn represents a hydrogen atom, halogen (Cl), or an amino group, or a (Cl-C4)(alkyl)amino or (di)(Cl-C4)(alkyl)amino group, preferably in the para position of the phenyl group.

[0215] Preferably, the direct dye(s) of triarylmethane structure are chosen from Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), and mixtures thereof.

[0216] According to another embodiment, the dye(s) of triarylmethane structure is / are chosen from anionic dyes of triarylmethane structure.

[0217] In particular, the anionic direct dye(s) are chosen from triarylmethane dyes of formulae (IIb) and (II'b): formulas (Hb) and (H'b) in which: - R33, R34, R35 and R36, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted by a (O)mS(O )-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined previously; - R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: alkyl; alkoxy, alkylthio; amino,(di)(alkyl)amino; hydroxy, mercapto; nitro, nitroso; R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; or two contiguous groups R4[ with R42 or R42 with R4Î or R43 with R44 together form a fused group benzo: I'; with I' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2 S(O )-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X', X” as defined above.

[0218] In particular, R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom, and R41 to R44, identical or different, represent a hydroxy group or (O)2S(O )-, M+; and when R4Î with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by a (O)2S(O )- group, it being understood that at least one of the cycles G, H, I or I' comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )- or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-; preferentially sulfonate.

[0219] As examples of dyes of formulae (IIb) and (II'b), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50; Tetrabromophenol Blue.

[0220] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more direct dye(s) of triarylmethane structure chosen from Tetrabromophenol Blue, Basic 77 (HC Blue 15) and their mixtures, preferably Tetrabromophenol Blue.

[0221] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct dye(s) derived from xanthene of formula (III):

[0222] formula (III) in which: * R45, R4g, R47 and R48, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom; * R4ç, R50, R51 and R52, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - (O)2S(O )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a ca- counterion tionic; - (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously; particularly R53, R54, R55 and R48 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom; * G represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or an NR group with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; particularly G represents an oxygen atom; * L represents an alcoholate O, M+; a thioalcoholate S, M+ or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium; * L' represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N+ RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an optionally substituted aryl group; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O )-, M+ with m and M+ as defined previously; * Q and Q', identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom; * M+ is as defined previously.

[0223] As examples of dyes of formula (III), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92 (D&C Red 28); Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9.

[0224] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more direct dye(s) derived from xanthene chosen from Acid Red 92 (D&C Red 28), Acid Red 52 and mixtures thereof, preferably Acid Red 92 (D&C Red 28).

[0225] According to a preferred embodiment, the direct dyes are chosen from halogenated direct dyes, preferably having at least one halogenated aromatic ring, preferably at least one halogenated aryl group, more preferably at least one halogenated phenyl group. The halogen atoms are chosen from fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine and astatine, preferably from chlorine and bromine.

[0226] The halogenated direct dyes, preferably comprising at least one halogenated aromatic cycle, can be chosen from all the different families of direct dyes, preferably from direct dyes derived from xanthene, triarylmethane dyes, azo dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0227] Preferably, the halogenated direct dyes, preferably comprising at least one halogenated aromatic cycle, are chosen from direct dyes derived from xanthene, triarylmethane dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0228] Among the direct dyes derived from xanthene comprising at least one cycle halogenated aromatic, we will mention: - D&C Red 28 (or Acid Red 92; Phloxine B; 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid), - D&C Red 27 (or Phloxine O; 2',4',5',7'-tetrabromo-4,5,6,7-tetrachloro-3',6'-dihydroxyspiro[2-benzofuran-3,9'-xanthe ne]-l-on), - Eosin Y (or Acid Red 87; 2-(2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-6-oxido-3-oxo-3H-xanthen-9-yl)benzoate), - Eosin B (or Acid Red 91; 4',5'-dibromo-3',6'-dihydroxy-2',7'-dinitro-l-spiro[isobenzofuran-3,9'-xanthene]on), - Erythrosine B (ou Acid Red 51 ; 2-(6-hydroxy-2,4,5,7-tetraiodo-3-oxo-xanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid), - Rose Bengal, (ou Acid Red 94 ; 4,5,6,7-Tetrachloro-3',6'-dihydroxy-2',4',5',7'-tetraiodo-3H-spiro[[2]benzofuran-l,9'-x anthen]-3-one).

[0229] Parmi les colorants directs triarylméthane comprenant au moins un cycle aromatique halogéné, on citera : - Tetrabromophenol Blue (ou 3,3-Bis(3,5-dibromo-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2,1 X6-benzoxathiole-1,1 (3H)-dione), - Tetrabromo-sulfonephthalein (ou 3,4,5,6-tetrabromophenol-sulfonephthalein), - Bromsulphthalein (ou Sulfobromo-phthalein ; Disodium 3,3'-(4,5,6,7-tetrabromo-3-oxo-2-benzofuran-l,l(3H)-diyl)bis(6-hydroxybenzene-l-sul fonate), - Bromocresol Green (ou BCG ; 3,3-Bis(3,5-dibromo-4-hydroxy-2-methylphenyl)-2,lX6-benzoxathiole-l,l(3H)-dione), - Bromothymol Blue (ou Bromothymol sulfone phthalein; 3,3-Bis[3-bromo-4-hydroxy-2-methyl-5-(propan-2-yl)phenyl]-2,lX6-benzoxathiole-1,l(3H)-dione) - Basic Blue 77 (or HC Blue 15).

[0230] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more direct dyes chosen from anionic direct dyes and cationic direct dyes, preferentially from anionic direct dyes.

[0231] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct dye(s) chosen from direct dyes of triarylmethane structure, direct dye(s) derived from xanthene and mixtures thereof, preferably from direct dyes of triarylmethane structure, preferably from anionic and cationic direct dyes of triarylmethane structure, more preferably from anionic direct dyes of triarylmethane structure.

[0232] More preferably, the composition comprises one or more direct dye(s) chosen from halogenated direct dyes, preferably having at least one halogenated aromatic cycle.

[0233] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct dye(s) chosen from Tetrabromophenol Blue, Basic Blue 77, Acid Red 92 and their mixtures, preferably comprises Tetrabromophenol Blue.

[0234] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises Tetrabromophenol Blue and Acid Red 92.

[0235] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct dye(s) in a total content ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.002 to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.003 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more halogenated direct dye(s), preferably having at least one halogenated aromatic ring, in a total content ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.002 to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.003 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigment

[0237] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more pigments.

[0238] By "pigment" is meant all pigments providing color to the composition. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.

[0239] The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopedia of chemical technology and in the Ullmann encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.

[0240] The pigments may for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof, preferably from mineral pigments.

[0241] Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide. Preferably, one or more mineral pigments chosen from the compounds with the INCI name ul-tr amariné s may be used.

[0242] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 5 nm and 200 qm, preferably between 7 nm and 80 qm, and more preferentially between 10 nm and 50 pm.

[0243] When present, the pigments represent more particularly 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Alkaline agent

[0244] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more alkaline, mineral, organic or hybrid agent(s).

[0245] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agent(s).

[0246] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” or “alkalizing agent” are used interchangeably.

[0247] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0248] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0249] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0250] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4.

[0251] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and mixtures thereof.

[0252] The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which can be used in the present invention, may in particular cite carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine which may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.)

[0253] As hybrid compounds, it is possible in particular to use guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.

[0254] The alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium silicate and metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium silicate and metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0255] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonia.

[0256] When it comprises them, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents in a total content preferably ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better still from 5 to 35% by weight, even better still from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0257] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one (meta)silicate. According to this embodiment, the total content of silicate(s) and / or metasilicate(s) of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably of sodium metasilicate and / or silicate, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better still from 5 to 35% by weight, even better still from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0258] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty substance(s) and the alkaline agent(s), in an amount such that the weight ratio between the total content of fatty substances and the total content of alkaline agent(s) is greater than or equal to 1.

[0259] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty substance(s) and the alkaline agent(s) chosen from silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in an amount such that the weight ratio between the total content of fatty substances and the alkaline agent(s) chosen from silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals is greater than or equal to 1. Amino acid-type compounds

[0260] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more amino acid type compounds.

[0261] By amino acid type compound, is meant in the sense of the present invention an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) possibly being intra-cyclic, optionally in salt form.

[0262] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (therefore not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. Said compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0263] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (IV) below and / or their salts.

[0264] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to the formula (IV): COOH (IV) H -......C ....... R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C12)alkyl group, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0265] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 members, this cycle not being substituted.

[0266] Preferably, p=2.

[0267] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0268] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0269] The amino acid compounds may also be a salt of a compound of formula (IV).

[0270] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium salts and zinc salts.

[0271] The amino acid compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0272] As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0273] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures.

[0274] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and their mixtures.

[0275] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures.

[0276] As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0277] Preferably, the amino acid compound is glycine.

[0278] The total content of amino acid type compound(s) present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0279] In particular, the total content of compound(s) of amino carboxylic acid type in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0280] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] In particular, the total content of selected amino acid compound(s) among glycine, its salts and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0282] Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (Poly)carboxylic acids

[0283] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, different from the amino acid type compounds previously described, one of their salts or their mixtures.

[0284] Preferably, the carboxylic (poly)acid(s) is (are) chosen from the carboxylic (poly)acid(s) of the following formula (V): ~ 0 J OH(V) | [HO J„ O

[0285] Formula (V) in which:

[0286] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, preferably n=1 or 2, more preferably n=2; - A is a monovalent (when n=0) or multivalent (when n is different from 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (OH).

[0287] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (C1-C4)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups.

[0288] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (V) are alpha-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Cl-C4)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, substituted by 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, preferably 1 hydroxy group; and n = 0 to 2.

[0289] In particular, mention may be made of the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (V) in which: - n=0 and A is a monovalent (Cl-C4)alkyl group, in particular (C2-C4)alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (OH), in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH; - n=0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted by 1 OH radical; or - n = 1 or 2, and A is a di- or trivalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, better (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.

[0290] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids may be chosen from: - citric acid (n=2 and trivalent A = -CH2-CHOH-CH2- ); - salicylic acid (n=0 and A = phenyl substituted by an OH); - lactic acid (n=0 and monovalent A = -CH(OH)CH3); and - tartaric acid (n=1 and divalent A = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).

[0291] Even more preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.

[0292] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, different from the amino acid type compounds previously described, one of their salts or their mixtures, preferentially one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (V), one of their salts or their mixtures, better still citric acid and / or one of its salts.

[0293] When it comprises them, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids and / or one of their salts in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 6% by weight, or even from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0294] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 6% by weight, or even from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polysaccharides

[0295] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more polysaccharides.

[0296] In the present invention, the term "polysaccharide" means a polymer consisting of sugar units. The term "sugar unit" means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms. The sugar units may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0297] The sugar units which may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0298] The following polymers, alone or as a mixture, may in particular be mentioned as polysaccharides: (a) exudates from trees or shrubs including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae including: - agar (polymer made from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); (c) gums from seeds or tubers of which: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); (d) microbial gums including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); (e) polymers extracted from plants including: - celluloses (glucose polymers); - starches (glucose polymers) and - inulin.

[0299] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, mention may be made in particular of a heat treatment. As chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers which may be, in particular, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0300] In particular, guar gums, carob gums, starches and celluloses can be modified / treated.

[0301] The guar gums that can be used according to the invention can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned by way of example. These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0302] Such guar gums, optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0303] The starches that can be used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, oat, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, tapioca starches. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potatoes.

[0304] Preferably, starch phosphates will be used, in particular distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product proposed under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

[0305] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups can be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups can be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups can be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0306] The polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention can be cellulose polymers.

[0307] According to the invention, the term "cellulosic" polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0308] Cellulosic polymers are also called celluloses.

[0309] Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in a microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0310] Among these cellulose polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0311] Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates or phosphates of cellulose, etc.), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates of cellulose) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyratesulfates and acetatepropionatesulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, there are hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0312] Among the cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by ASHLAND) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0313] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

[0314] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium salt, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium salt, dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0315] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from celluloses, guar gums, starches, and mixtures thereof, preferably among celluloses, guar gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0316] More preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, cellulose ether esters, and mixtures thereof, preferably from cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0317] Even more preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses.

[0318] When present in the composition, the polysaccharide(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants

[0319] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more surfactants.

[0320] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants.

[0321] These may preferably be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.

[0322] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO.

[0323] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside acids. polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.

[0324] Among the anionic surfactants, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts, in particular C8-C24, preferably C12-C20, different from the (poly)carboxylic acids previously described.

[0325] These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

[0326] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

[0327] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0328] As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.

[0329] Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0330] The anionic surfactants possibly present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

[0331] As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.

[0332] In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 EO) marketed, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

[0333] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, the following are preferably used: sulfated sioactives such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acyl glutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferably alkyl sulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.

[0334] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably non-silicone and may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0335] Mention may be made in particular of alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0336] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following respective structures (VI) and (VII):

[0337] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (VI) formula (III), in which: - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0338] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (VII) formula (VII), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra' represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0339] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoampho-dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho-dipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0340] As an example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0341] Compounds of formula (VIII) can also be used: Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (VIII) formula (VIII), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra” represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra”-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of one another, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0342] Among the compounds of formula (VIII) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0343] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0344] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, advantageously used are alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0345] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0346] The non-ionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0347] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, the following compounds may be mentioned, alone or in a mixture: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

[0348] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids, and glycerol, - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - derivatives of A-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine; - amine oxides.

[0349] They are chosen, in particular, from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.

[0350] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as oxides of (C10-C14 alkyl)amines or N-(C10-C14 acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0351] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan can be chosen from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquii-sostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

[0352] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably chosen from ester(s) of C8-C30 fatty acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0353] Preferably, the ester(s) of C8-C30 fatty acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from esters of C12-C18 fatty acids and of oxyethylenated sorbitan, in particular from esters of lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan.

[0354] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), oxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), oxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65), oxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-85).

[0355] The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids and glycerol, esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and oxyethylenated sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, preferably from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids and glycerol.

[0356] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from: ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups.

[0357] The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0358] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

[0359] As quaternary ammonium salts, we can notably cite, for example:

[0360] - those corresponding to the following general formula (IX): in which the groups R8 to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, C1-C22 alkylamidoalkyl (C2-C6), C1-C22 alkylacetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups, X' is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, C1-C4 alkyl- or C1-C4 alkylaryl-sulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IX), preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0361] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of following formula (X): ... * (X) \ / X in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(CrC4 )sulfates, alkyl(CrC4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0362] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (XI) next: FL? Rl$ R..s fu ! V in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0363] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such that, for example, those of formula (XII) following: —FU (XII) O 1 ........c—(O—CtHrâ(OHy —X U, in which: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the -C(O)R26 group, the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the -C(O)R28 group, the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1;r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29. ; The alkyl groups R22 can be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfate, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonate. It is possible however use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an organic acid derived anion such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ester-functional ammonium. The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate. More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used in the composition according to the invention, in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, the methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R28, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from the C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples of compounds of formula (XII) that may be mentioned are salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, available from KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131, can also be used. Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0364] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and their mixtures, more preferably from anionic surfactants.

[0365] More preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts and mixtures thereof, better still from alkyl sulfates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts and mixtures thereof.

[0366] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more surfactants chosen from alkyl sulfates.

[0367] When the composition comprises one or more surfactants, the total content of surfactants in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0368] When the composition comprises one or more non-ionic and / or anionic surfactant(s), the total content of non-ionic and / or anionic surfactant(s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Solvent

[0369] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.

[0370] As organic solvent, examples that may be mentioned are linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0371] When the composition comprises one or more organic solvents, the total content of the organic solvent(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0372] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition which does not comprise, or comprises little water, in particular less than 0.5% water, better still less than 0.1% water, even better still less than 0.05%, or even less than 0.01% water, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the composition does not comprise any water added during its preparation, any water which may be present being provided by the raw materials used during its preparation. Additives

[0373] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of polymers, different from acrylic polymers and polysaccharides, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidant agents, perfumes, preservatives.

[0374] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0375] The above additives may generally be present in an amount of between 0 and 20% by weight for each of them, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0376] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition which has just been described does not comprise hydrogen peroxide. This composition is intended to be mixed, at the time of use, with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0377] Before mixing with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, the composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a cream.

[0378] Preferably, the composition according to the invention, before mixing with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, has a viscosity greater than or equal to 100 poises (100 Pa.s), preferably greater than or equal to 130 poises (130 Pa.s), more preferably between 130 and 250 poises (130 and 250 Pa.s), measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1s 1; this viscosity can be determined completed using a Thermo Haake RS600 rotary rheometer, equipped with a 0 35 mm plane-plane geometry with a 1 mm air gap.

[0379] Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may comprise hydrogen peroxide. When it comprises hydrogen peroxide, the composition is a ready-to-use composition.

[0380] According to a preferred embodiment, the ready-to-use composition comprises: - one or more peroxygen salts; - one or more fatty substances present in a total content greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more acrylic polymer(s), - one or more direct dye(s), and - hydrogen peroxide.

[0381] According to a particular embodiment, the composition, ready to use, comprises: - one or more persulfate(s); - one or more fatty substances present in a total content greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more acrylic polymer(s); - one or more direct dye(s), and - hydrogen peroxide.

[0382] Preferably, the ready-to-use composition is also in the form of a cream.

[0383] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition ranges from 8 to 13, preferably from 9 to 12. Process

[0384] The present invention also relates to a process for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, which comprises a step of applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount of a composition as defined above.

[0385] Preferably, the composition applied to the keratin fibers is obtained by mixing before use a composition according to the invention which does not comprise hydrogen peroxide with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0386] According to a preferred embodiment, the process for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, according to the invention comprises: (i) a step of mixing a composition A according to the invention as described previously which does not comprise hydrogen peroxide, with a composition B comprising hydrogen peroxide, (ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibers the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

[0387] The composition resulting from the mixture of step (i) is called ready-to-use composition.

[0388] This ready-to-use composition may comprise one or more ingredients from among those described above. This ready-to-use composition may also comprise water, in particular from the composition containing hydrogen peroxide.

[0389] The ready-to-use composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

[0390] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.

[0391] Preferably, compositions A and B are mixed in a weight ratio A / B ranging from 0.1 to 2, preferably from 0.3 to 1.5, better still from 0.5 to 1.

[0392] Preferably, composition B comprises hydrogen peroxide in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 0.5 to 20%, and even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the weight of composition B.

[0393] Composition B is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water.

[0394] It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight.

[0395] Composition B also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

[0396] Composition B preferably comprises one or more fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

[0397] Composition B may also comprise surfactants and thickening polymers.

[0398] Usually, the pH of composition B, when it is aqueous, is less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferentially between 1.5 and 4.5. Kit

[0399] Another subject of the invention is a device with at least two compartments for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition A as described above and at least a second compartment containing a composition B comprising hydrogen peroxide as described above.

[0400] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by appropriate application means, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.

[0401] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

[0402] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as described above for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

[0403] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

[0404] In the examples which follow, all the quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions A and Al

[0405] Compositions A and A1 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0406] [Tables 1] A Al POTASSIUM PERSULFATE 23.17 23.17 AMMONIUM PERSULFATE 10.00 10.00 SODIUM SILICATE 18.00 18.00 SODIUM METASILICATE 5.00 5.00 SODIUM STEARATE 4.72 4.72 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.75 0.75 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.75 0.75 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 1.00 1.00 DISODIUM EDTA 0.49 0.49 GLYCINE 0.60 0.60 CITRIC ACID 3.30 3.30 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.01 0.01 MINERAL OIL / PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM 29.00 15.00 POLYETHYLENE* 1.89 1.89 TETRABROMOPHENOL BLUE 0.005 0.005 ULTRAMARINES / CI 77007 0.27 0.27 Inert filler(s) Qs 100 Qs 100

[0407] * PERFORMA SW 100 SYNTHETIC WAX marketed by NUCERA SOLUTIONS Composition O

[0408] The oxidizing composition O was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0409] [Tables2] O TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER 0.40 CETEARETH-33 2.00 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 9.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 8.00 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06 PHOSPHORIC ACID Qs pH 3 + / - 0.2 WATER / AQUA Qs 100

[0410] Composition A according to the invention is in the form of a soft, shiny cream. Composition Al is in the form of a firm, crumbly paste.

[0411] Compositions A and Al were left for 24 hours at room temperature. It is observed that paste Al has a dry appearance while cream A according to the invention remained homogeneous. The invention made it possible to obtain a stable cream.

[0412] At the time of use, compositions A and Al were respectively mixed with the oxidizing composition O according to the weight ratio 1+1.5 to obtain mixtures M and ML respectively.

[0413] A homogeneous mixture was easily obtained with composition A according to the invention whereas composition Al is difficult to mix with the oxidizing composition.

[0414] Each of the mixtures M and Ml was then applied to a strand of natural brown hair (tone height 4) at a rate of 10g of mixture per 1g of strand of hair.

[0415] After a setting time of 50 min at 33°C, the locks were rinsed, then washed and dried at 60°C in an oven.

[0416] Mixture M did not dry on the strands during the application time. Colorimetric measurements

[0417] Hair lightening was assessed in the L*a*b* system, with a KONICA MINOLTA CM-3600A spectro-colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

[0418] In this system, L* represents lightness, a* represents the red / green axis and b* the yellow / blue axis. The higher the value of L*, the brighter the result. Results

[0419] [Tables3] L* Witness (wick before treatment) 21.38 M (invention) 59.38 Ml (comparative) 54.83

[0420] The mixture M of the invention leads to a better level of lightening than the comparative mixture M1. The hair treated with the mixture M has a natural appearance, without unsightly reflections.

[0421] The invention therefore made it possible to obtain a lightening cream which is stable over time and leads to a better level of lightening of the hair, without unsightly reflections.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition comprising: - one or more peroxygenated salts; - one or more fatty substances present in a total content greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more acrylic polymer(s), and - one or more direct dye(s).

2. Composition according to the preceding claim in which the peroxygenated salt(s) are chosen from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even better from potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, better still from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, better still from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim which comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from solid fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total fatty substance content ranges from 20 to 60% by weight, preferably from 22 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 40% by weight, better still from 28 to 35% by weight, even better still from 30 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the acrylic polymer(s) is (are) chosen from associative acrylic polymers, preferably from anionic associative acrylic polymers.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the acrylic polymer(s) is (are) chosen from copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, more preferably from polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of (C10-C30) alkyl ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid, the copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the total content of the acrylic polymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the direct dye(s) is (are) chosen from nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine, xanthene direct dyes, natural direct dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably from tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably from tri(hetero)arylmethanes, better still from triarylmethanes.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the direct dye(s) is (are) chosen from halogenated direct dyes, preferably having at least one halogenated aromatic ring, the halogen atoms preferably being chosen from fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine and astatine, preferably from chlorine and bromine.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the direct dye(s) is (are) chosen from anionic direct dyes and cationic direct dyes, preferably from anionic direct dyes.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the direct dye(s) is (are) chosen from Tetrabromophenol Blue, Basic Blue 77, Acid Red 92 and mixtures thereof, preferably is Tetrabromophenol Blue.

15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims in which the total content of direct dye(s) ranges from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.0005 to 8% by weight, and even better still from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.002 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.003 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises an alkaline agent, preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicate or metasilicate and mixtures thereof, preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, sodium silicate and mixtures thereof.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the alkaline agent(s) ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better still from 5 to 35% by weight, better still from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. A composition according to any preceding claim, not comprising hydrogen peroxide.

19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, including hydrogen peroxide.

20. Process for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

21. Process for lightening keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising (i) a step of mixing the composition defined according to any one of claims 1 to 18 with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, (ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step (i).

22. Device with at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 18 and at least a second compartment containing a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide.

23. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19, for lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair.