Cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type, based on a lamellar phase structure

Abstract

L'OREAL "Cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type, based on a lamellar phase structure" The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, and in particular chosen from surfactants further comprising at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates and mixtures thereof; (c) at least one polymer chosen from homopolymers and / or copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and mixtures thereof; and (d) at least one non-ionic carboxyvinyl polymer.It also relates to a cosmetic treatment process in which said composition is applied to a keratin material and the use of said composition in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin, or for the care of the hair. Figure for the abstract: None.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type, based on a lamellar phase structure Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, based on a structure of specific lamellar phases and providing interesting sensory properties appreciated by users when applied to a keratin material.

[0002] By “keratin material” is meant in particular the skin, the scalp, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, and the body hair, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, neck, eye contour, eyelids). Prior art

[0003] The type of galenic, considered by the present invention, is an oil-in-water emulsion with a lamellar phase stabilized by the presence of at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain. This galenic has in particular been described in patent applications WO2018108878 and WO2020002538 for the development of compositions dedicated to masking skin imperfections, moisturizing the skin and / or treating the signs of skin aging, in particular the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, in particular increasing with age.

[0004] Unfortunately, it proves difficult to reconcile in the same composition the satisfaction of the aforementioned objectives with additional requirements, particularly in terms of sensory quality.

[0005] Indeed, for obvious reasons, users also wish to have compositions that are pleasant to apply, provide a soft feel and are free from any undesirable sensory phenomenon. However, compositions having the aforementioned galenic may have a texture that does not have the desired visual and / or haptic properties, in particular the “rebound” effect that can be characterized visually and / or by touch, also called the “bouncy” effect, which is particularly appreciated by users. Presentation of the invention

[0006] The present invention specifically aims to propose a galenic formulation making it possible to meet all of the aforementioned requirements without resorting to the use of silicone compounds.

[0007] More specifically, the present invention aims to develop compositions with oil-in-water architecture with a lamellar phase, having qualities interesting visual and sensory effects, and in particular a “rebound” effect that can be characterized visually and by touch, also called the “bouncy” effect.

[0008] The present invention also aims to develop compositions with an oil-in-water architecture with a lamellar phase which comply with the preceding requirements and which also have satisfactory storage and temperature stability. Summary of the invention

[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one saturated C16-C22, preferably C16-C18, fatty alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, and in particular chosen from surfactants further comprising at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates and mixtures thereof;

[0010] (c) at least one polyacrylamide polymer chosen from homopolymers and / or co 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid polymers and mixtures thereof; and (d) at least one non-ionic carboxyvinyl polymer.

[0011] As illustrated in the examples below, the inventors have discovered that the use of at least one carboxyvinyl polymer (d) in accordance with the invention, in a composition with a lamellar phase structure, makes it possible to confer original properties on this composition, in particular in terms of sensory experience and visual appearance, notably characterized by a “rebound” effect or “bouncy” effect, without otherwise altering its stability and its other performances.

[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, the “rebound” effect or “bouncy” effect characterizes a particular perception, both visual and sensory, of the composition by the user.

[0013] First of all, the user has a visual perception of a dense and rounded composition when it is contained in its receptacle. Furthermore, when pushing his finger into this composition in order to take a sample, the user has a more heightened tactile sensation of the resistance and flexibility of this composition.

[0014] The present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in which a composition as defined above is applied to said keratin material.

[0015] The present invention also relates to a use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin, body or face, or for the care of the hair.

[0016] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent upon reading from the detailed description that follows.

[0017] In what follows, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more” and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain. Detailed description

[0018] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic. By "cosmetic" is meant a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0019] The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0020] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition. Saturated fatty alcohol(s) C16-C22 (a)

[0021] By “saturated fatty alcohol” is meant any alcohol comprising a saturated (without double or triple covalent bond) and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function.

[0022] For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrocarbon chain” means an organic group consisting mainly or even exclusively of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms. This chain is in particular free of silicon atoms and therefore not silicone-containing.

[0023] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) present in the composition in accordance with the invention comprises between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.

[0024] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) present in the composition in accordance with the invention is solid at room temperature (20°C + / - 5°C) and advantageously has an -OH function at the end of the chain.

[0025] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and their mixtures, and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures.

[0026] In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention contains at least one saturated fatty alcohol (a) chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl alcohol (or cetostearyl alcohol or ce- tearyl alcohol - "ceteraryl alcohol" in English).

[0027] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of fatty alcohols (a) in C16 and C[8. More preferably, the composition comprises at least one mixture of cetyl (C16) and stearyl (C[8) alcohols, also called cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0028] More preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of at least two saturated fatty alcohols respectively C16 and C[8, preferably in a C16 fatty alcohol(s) / C[8 fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio varying from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20, and advantageously in a C16 fatty alcohol(s) / C[8 fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio equal to 50 / 50.

[0029] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 2.5% to 7% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] Anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain (b)

[0031] The anionic surfactant (b) useful in the context of the invention comprises at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18. This chain may be linear, saturated (without double or triple covalent bonds) or unsaturated (which may contain one or more double and / or triple covalent bonds).

[0032] Preferably, the anionic surfactant (b) useful in the context of the invention comprises a single linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain.

[0033] In particular, the anionic surfactant (b) contains a single C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18.

[0034] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from surfactants further comprising at least one sulfonate function, in particular as defined below in formula (I), acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function and their mixtures.

[0036] More particularly, the anionic surfactant (b) can be chosen from the surfactants of general formula (I):

[0037] [Chem.l] RCOY(CH2) n SO3M (I)

[0038] in which

[0039] -R represents a saturated, linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group;

[0040] -Y represents -O- or -NR4- with R4 representing a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group;

[0041] - M is chosen from the group formed by a hydrogen atom, metal cations alkaline or alkaline earth, ammonium salts and organic amines;

[0042] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3;

[0043] and mixtures thereof.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from alkyl(Ci6-C22)sulfonate salts, alkyl(Ci6-C22)amidesulfonate salts, alkyl(Ci6-C22)arylsulfonate salts, alkyl(Ci6-C22)sulfoacetate salts, N-acyl(Ci6-C22)-N-alkyl(Ci-C6)taurate salts, acyl(Ci6-C22)isethionate salts, alkyl(Ci6-C22)sulfolaurate salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Preferably, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from:

[0046] - acylisethionates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0047] - N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear, branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or cyclic comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably the alkyl group is methyl; and

[0048] - their mixtures;

[0049] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0050] As N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, mention may be made of sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol; the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate (sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate) marketed under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company NIKKO.

[0051] In particular, the anionic surfactant (b) is at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate.

[0052] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from acyl glutamates whose acyl group comprises from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0053] As examples of acyl glutamates, mention may in particular be made of palmitoyl glutamic, stearoyl glutamic, behenoyl glutamic, olivoyl glutamic acids, and the salts of these acids, in particular the alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, the alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or the ammonium salts of said acids.

[0054] Examples that may be mentioned are compounds bearing the INCI name sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and their mixtures.

[0055] As acyl glutamic acid salts, mention may also be made of sodium stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the name AMISOFT® HS 11 PF by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the name reference AMISOFT® HS-21P by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0056] According to another embodiment of the invention, a composition may comprise a mixture of at least one anionic surfactant (b) comprising at least one sulfonate function, in particular of formula (I) as detailed above, and of at least one anionic surfactant (b) comprising at least one glutamate function, in particular as defined above.

[0057] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] In the compositions in accordance with the invention, the mass ratio of fatty alcohol(s) (a) / anionic surfactant(s) (b) can vary from 10:1 to 6:4, preferably from 19:2 to 7:3, and even more preferably from 9:1 to 7:2.

[0059] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, it appears that the fatty alcohol(s) (a) and the anionic surfactant(s) (b) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain form with the hydrophilic phase an alpha-crystalline phase also called alpha-gel. This phase can in particular be characterized by DSC analysis and by X-ray diffraction at a temperature lower than the melting temperature of the alpha gel phase.

[0060] Thus, the composition in accordance with the invention is capable of forming crystalline lamellar phases.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention contain at least one swollen alpha-crystalline phase having a swelling period greater than 10 nm, and preferably greater than 12 nm, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 15 nm. The period is defined as being the sum of the thickness of a bilayer formed by the fatty alcohol(s) (a) and the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the thickness of the water layer between two lamellae, this pattern being repeated several times.

[0062] According to a particular embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the difference between the number of carbon atoms in the hydrocarbon chain of the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty alcohol(s) (a) must not differ by more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably it is less than or equal to 4. Polyacrylamide polymer(s) (c)

[0063] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyacrylamide polymer (c) chosen from homopolymers and / or copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] The polyacrylamide polymers (c) which may be suitable in the context of the present invention may be non-ionic, including branched or unbranched polymers. substituted.

[0065] Among the polyacrylamide polymers (c), we can for example cite the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel™ 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel™ 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acry-loyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic;

[0066] Among the copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, mention may be made of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate such as the product sold under the name Hostacerin® AMPS by the company Clariant and the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer such as the product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX® AVC by the company Clariant.

[0067] Other polyacrylamide polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention include multiblock copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of these multiblock copolymers include the acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer such as that sold by Clariant under the name Aristoflex HMS and the copolymers sold under the names Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

[0068] According to a particular embodiment, the polyacrylamide polymer (c) can be chosen from 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid copolymers and mixtures thereof.

[0069] In particular, the polyacrylamide polymer (c) is chosen from ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the polyacrylamide polymer (c) is at least the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer.

[0070] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of polyacrylamide polymer(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition. Carboxyvinyl polymer(s) (d)

[0071] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic carboxyvinyl polymer (d). Of course, the carboxyvinyl polymers (d) are distinct from the polyacrylamide polymers (c) described above.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the carboxyvinyl polymers (d) are crosslinked.

[0073] According to a particular embodiment, the carboxyvinyl polymers (d) are modified or unmodified, and may be homopolymers or copolymers. resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer chosen from carboxylic acids with α,[3 -ethylenic unsaturation or their esters, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising a hydrophobic group.

[0074] The term "copolymers" means both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0075] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. By hydrophobic group or unit is meant a radical with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0076] In particular, these copolymers are chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization:

[0077] - of at least one monomer of the following formula (II):

[0078] [Chem.2] CH. ZX ■■■■■' C — (II)

[0079] in which Ri denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid monomers, and

[0080] - of at least one monomer corresponding to the monomer of formula (III) below:

[0081] [Chem.3] ....."" C (A

[0082] in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units, and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), and R3 is a hydrogen atom.

[0083] In particular, the copolymers may be derived from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:

[0084] - essentially acrylic acid,

[0085] - a compound of formula (III) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, and R3 is a hydrogen atom, and

[0086] - a crosslinking agent, which is for example a co-polyethylenic unsaturated monomer polymerizable, such as for example diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and allyl ethers of pentaerythritol or sucrose.

[0087] More particularly, the carboxyvinyl copolymers may be copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and of an alkyl acrylate chain crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol or sucrose. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers with the INCI name: Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, such as, for example, those marketed by the company Lubrizol under the trade names CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 21 POLYMER, Carbopol® 1342, 1382, and those marketed by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen™ TR-1 or Pemulen™ TR-2, the latter being particularly advantageous in view of its more pronounced hydrophobic character.

[0088] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the carboxyvinyl polymers (d) used are unmodified, and are in particular homopolymers.

[0089] The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked or non-crosslinked, in particular crosslinked, (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “(meth)acrylic” means “acrylic or methacrylic”.

[0090] As crosslinked or non-crosslinked, in particular crosslinked, homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, we can cite, by way of example:

[0091] - the polymer with the INCI name CARBOMER, in particular the commercial polymers marketed under the following names: Carbopol® 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984 from Lubrizol, Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L, or Synthalen® M from 3V-Sigma, ASHLAND™ 980 MS CARBOMER from ASHLAND, ACRYPOL® 980 from COREL PHARMA CHEM, or TC-CARBOMER 980 MS from GUANGZHOU TINCI MATERIALS TECHNOLOGY; and

[0092] - the polymer with INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, in particular com marketed under the name SEPIMAX ZEN™ by the company SEPPIC.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a carboxyvinyl polymer (d) chosen from the polymers with INCI names: Carbomer, Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3.5% by weight of carboxyvinyl polymer(s) (d) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight of silicone compound(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly free of silicone compound(s).

[0096] By silicone compounds (also called silicones) is meant all silicone compounds capable of being used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, that is to say inorganic compounds consisting of at least a mixture of silicon and oxygen, including in particular silicone oils, silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenylated or amino silicones.

[0097] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, more particularly less than 0.5% by weight, even more particularly less than 0.1% by weight of clay(s), including in particular unmodified and / or modified clay(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular free of clay(s).

[0098] The clays may be natural or synthetic, in particular unmodified or modified. As unmodified clays, mention may be made, for example, of bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, non-tronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0099] As modified clays, mention may be made, for example, of lipophilic clays such as hectorites made lipophilic (modified) by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, in particular di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, such as for example the modified clay "stearalkonium hectorite".

[0100] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise:

[0101] - as polyacrylamide polymer (c) at least one polyacryloyldimethyl taurate ammonium and at least one ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer; and

[0102] - at least one carboxyvinyl polymer (d), in particular of which at least the polymer with INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.

[0103] In particular, these two compounds forming the carboxyvinyl polymer (d) can be implemented in the form of a pre-existing mixture.

[0104] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises:

[0105] - from 2% to 10% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol;

[0106] - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate;

[0107] - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of polyacrylamide polymer(s) (c) relative to the weight total composition, including at least one polyacrylamide polymer chosen from po- ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer and mixtures thereof; and

[0108] - 0.01% to 5% by weight of carboxyvinyl polymer(s) (d), of which at least one carboxyvinyl polymer chosen from polymers with INCI names: carbomer, Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, and mixtures thereof. Oils)

[0109] A composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more oils. They may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0110] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C + / - 5°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In other words, an oil, for the purposes of the present invention, has a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C.

[0111] Thus, according to a particular variant, a composition according to the invention may contain at least one hydrocarbon oil.

[0112] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0113] According to a preferred variant, a composition according to the invention does not contain silicone oil.

[0114] The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular an Si-O group.

[0115] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one hydrocarbon oil (non-silicone) chosen from C8 to C30 alkane oils, ester oils, C12 to C26 liquid fatty alcohols, C19-C22 fatty acids and carbonated oils, in particular as detailed below, and in particular contains at least one C10 to C20 alkane oil, an ester oil and / or a C19-C22 liquid fatty alcohol.

[0116] As hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of:

[0117] - branched alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular C8-Ci6 such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neo-pentanoate, and mixtures thereof;

[0118] - linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular 10 with 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, more particularly from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures; or a mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms (named Cl5-19 alkane), for example the products marketed under the references EMOGREEN™ L15 and Emosmart L19 by SEPPIC;

[0119] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;

[0120] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, rice bran, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, Limanthes alba seeds (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil); or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel.We can also cite coco-caprylate / caprate, for example marketed under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois; .

[0121] - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether;

[0122] - synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R5COOR6, in which R5 re has a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R6 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R5 + R6 is greater than or equal to 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by the company Witco or "Tegosoft TN" by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-Tend 226" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, laurate hexyl, diisopropyl adipate, isononanoate isononyl, oleyl erucate or (Z)-Octadec-9-enyl (Z)-docos-13-enoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethyl-hexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and C1-C6 alcohols with the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example that marketed under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer;tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale as well as linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates; ;

[0123] - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as tetrahydroxystearate / tetrai- dipentaerythritol sostearate;

[0124] - the esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol(s) or free acid(s) function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, more particularly chosen from the esters of the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl di-merdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdi-linoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and mixtures thereof;

[0125] - fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name “Eldew SL205” from Ajinomoto;

[0126] - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain and even unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as for example octyldodecanol, for example marketed under the name EUTANOL® G by the company BASF, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0127] - higher fatty acids C19-C22;

[0128] - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC” by the company Cognis; and

[0129] - their mixtures. Waxes

[0130] A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax, in particular a wax of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C.

[0131] For the purposes of the invention, these waxes are to be distinguished from the saturated fatty alcohols (a) described above.

[0132] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change.

[0133] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3:1999.

[0134] The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments.

[0135] The measurement protocol is as follows: a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from - 20 °C to 100 °C, at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then is cooled from 100 °C to - 20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from - 20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0136] As waxes of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

[0137] - camauba wax;

[0138] - candelilla wax, in particular the commercial reference Candelilla Wax SP 75 G of the company Strahl & Pitsch;

[0139] - lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins, lanolins oxypropylenated or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof; - rice bran wax;

[0140] - Ouricury wax;

[0141] - Alfa wax;

[0142] - cork fiber wax;

[0143] - sugar cane wax;

[0144] - Japanese wax;

[0145] - sumac wax;

[0146] - montan wax;

[0147] - Orange wax, in particular that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the Koster Keunen company;

[0148] - Laurel wax;

[0149] - sunflower wax;

[0150] - lemon wax;

[0151] - olive wax;

[0152] - berry wax;

[0153] - beeswax, in particular that marketed under the name White Beeswax SP 453P by the company Strahl & Pitsch or Cerabeil Lor by the company Baerlocher;

[0154] - buckwheat wax, in particular that marketed by the company Codif;

[0155] - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with fatty alcohols chain in Ci2 to C[8, in particular sold by the company Sophim in the Phytowax® range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57);

[0156] - partially hydrogenated wax esters of jojoba oil;

[0157] - hydrogenated jojoba oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated jojoba oil), in particular marketed by the company Desert Whale under the reference under the name JOJOBA WAX FLAKES;

[0158] - isomerized jojoba oil, in particular partially hyaluronic jojoba oil trans isomerized drug manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba™ 500;

[0159] - fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, in particular the mixture of three waxes jojoba esters & helianthus annus seed wax & acacia decurrens extract and polyglyceryl, in particular the product marketed under the name Hydracire S® or Acticire® by the company Gatefossé;

[0160] - hydrogenated glycerol esters, in particular the product marketed under the name CEGESOFT® HF 52 by the company Cognis (BASF), a mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils or the product marketed under the name Softisan® 100 Cremer by the company OLEO;

[0161] - partially hydrogenated olive oil, in particular the commercially available compound under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance;

[0162] - hydrogenated sunflower oil;

[0163] - hydrogenated castor oil;

[0164] - hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, in particular Thixinr® from Rheox,

[0165] - hydrogenated coconut oil;

[0166] - hydrogenated palm oil;

[0167] - hydrogenated coconut oil;

[0168] - hydrogenated coco-glycerides;

[0169] - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with alcohol cetyl;

[0170] - and / or their mixtures.

[0171] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0172] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even more particularly from 0.1% to 2% by weight of wax(es), in particular wax(es) of plant origin, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0173] As is apparent from the above, the composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase.

[0174] The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 35% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight, and even better still from 6% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 8% by weight of an oily phase formed from one or more non-silicone oil(s). In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 9% to 50% by weight, and preferably from 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] This quantity in oily phase takes into account the content of the hydrophobic ingredients required according to the invention and as defined previously.

[0177] In addition to the ingredients required according to the invention and detailed above, the oily phase may comprise one or more additional fatty substances chosen in particular from waxes, pasty compounds and lipophilic polymers. Aqueous phase

[0178] As is clear from the above, the composition according to the invention also comprises an aqueous phase. This aqueous phase comprises at least water mixed or not with one or more water-soluble solvents.

[0179] The amount of aqueous phase may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 65% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 95% relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 20% by weight, and preferably at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.

[0181] For the purposes of the invention, the term polyol means:

[0182] - a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least minus two hydroxyl functions; or

[0183] - a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, in which one or several carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, such as polyethylene glycols (PEG) having 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.

[0184] Preferably, the polyol(s) have a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.

[0185] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12, and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0186] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythrityl, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof.

[0187] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, in particular are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythrityl tetrahydrofuran, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably glycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0188] Preferably, a polyol suitable for the invention is chosen from glycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0189] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount greater than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in an amount greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight, and even better still from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic active ingredients and adjuvants

[0192] The compositions according to the present invention may of course contain one or more active ingredients and adjuvants chosen in particular from cosmetic active ingredients, sunscreens, colorants, pearlescent agents, pigments, perfumes, preservatives, pH adjusters, film-forming agents, etc. Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0193] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen in particular from:

[0194] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3 with the INCI name “NIACINAMIDE” or “NIACINAMIDE PC” for example marketed under the name NIACINAMIDE USP by the company WESTERN DRUGS or DSM NU-TRITIONAL PRODUCTS;

[0195] - known anti-aging active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid, rhamnose, the compound with the INCI name “GRIFOLA FRONDOSA FRUITING BODY EXTRACT” for example marketed under the name ETERNISKIN™ LS 9881 by the company BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION;

[0196] - sunscreens; and

[0197] - their mixtures.

[0198] A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.0001% to 40%, preferably from 0.01% to 30%, more preferably from 0.01% to 20% and better still from 0.01% to 15% by weight of active ingredient(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition

[0199] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0200] It can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum or a paste.

[0201] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are not solid.

[0202] In particular, the compositions according to the invention are not solid and not under stick shape.

[0203] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are presented in the form of a non-solid galenic, ranging from a serum texture to a creamy texture which can be stored in a pot.

[0204] Advantageously, the viscosity of a composition according to the invention ranges from 100 cP (centipoises), corresponding to 0.1 Pa.s (Pascal.second) (internal measurement mobile 2, 21UD - fluid milk type) to 20,040 cP, corresponding to 20.04 Pa.s (internal measurement = 85UD mobile 4 - thick cream type) measured at 25°C.

[0205] The viscosity of a composition according to the invention can be measured by any method known to the person skilled in the art, and in particular by applying a conventional method. For example, the measurement can be carried out at 25°C using a Contraves TV, a Rheomat RM180 or a Rheomat RM 100 PLUS, equipped for example with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm. The person skilled in the art can choose the spindle used to measure the viscosity, for example from spindles M1, M2 or M4, depending on his general knowledge, in order to be able to carry out the measurement.

[0206] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. This may be the skin of the face and / or the body, in particular the face and / or the neck and / or the hands.

[0207] The composition according to the invention may comprise all the constituents usually used in the application and topical administration envisaged.

[0208] In particular, the composition is a so-called non-rinse composition. In other words, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed after application. As such, it is therefore different from a cleansing and / or makeup removing composition particularly intended to be diluted at the time of use and / or rinsed after use to be removed from the skin surface to which it has been applied. Uses and methods

[0209] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection, and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

[0210] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratin material.

[0211] In particular, the method according to the invention is devoid of a washing step. consecutive, immediately or not, to said step of application of said composition.

[0212] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0213] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by administering topically a composition according to the invention.

[0214] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of the cosmetic composition according to the usual application techniques. Generally, this application can be done directly with the finger or using a woven or non-woven support on which an adjusted quantity of said composition has been previously deposited.

[0215] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0216] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0217] In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are expressed in % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples MATERIALS AND METHODS Raw materials

[0218] In the examples below the compounds are identified by their INCI name:

[0219] “CETEARYL ALCOHOL” is marketed under the name ALCOHOL CETOESTEARILICO 50 / 50 by the company INDUSTRIA QUIMICA DEL CENTRO;

[0220] “SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE” is marketed under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company NIKKO;

[0221] “OCTYLDODECANOL” is marketed under the name EUTANOL® G by BASF company;

[0222] “OLEYL ERUCATE” is marketed under the name CETIOL® J 600 by the company BASF;

[0223] “HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL” is a product marketed under the name JOJOBA WAX FLAKES production by DESERT WHALE (VANTAGE SPEC. CHEM.) company;

[0224] “C15-19 ALKANE” is a product marketed under the name EMOGREEN™ L15 by the company SEPPIC;

[0225] “XANTHAN GUM” is marketed under the name KELTROL® CG by the company CP KELCO;

[0226] “AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER” is marketed under the name ARISTOFLEX® AVC by the company CLARIANT;

[0227] “AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE” is marketed under the name Hostacerin® AMPS by the company CLARIANT;

[0228] “CARBOMER” is marketed under the name Carbopol® 980 by the company Lubrizol;

[0229] “ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER” is marketed under the name Pemulen™ TR-2 by the company Lubrizol;

[0230] “POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6” is marketed under the name SEPIMAX ZEN™ by the company SEPPIC;

[0231] “XANTHAN GUM” is marketed under the name KELTROL® CG by the company CP KELCO;

[0232] “CARRAGEENAN” is marketed under the name SATIAGEL VPC 508 by the company CARGILL;

[0233] “SCLEROTIUM GUM (and) XANTHAN GUM” is marketed under the name ACTIGUM™ VSX 20 by the company Cargill;

[0234] “SODIUM POLYACRYLATE” is marketed under the name Cosmedia® SP by the company BASF;

[0235] “POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN (and) LAURETH-7” is marketed under the name SEPIGEL™ 305 by the company SEPPIC and

[0236] “OXIDIZED STARCH ACETATE” is marketed under the name GF-A390 by the company FOSHAN GAOFENG STARCH TECHNOLOGY. Stability measurement protocol

[0237] The compositions are tested for their stability after 24 hours at 25°C and, where appropriate, after 15 days of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.

[0238] The properties evaluated are:

[0239] - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter;

[0240] - the viscosity of the composition, measured using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM 100 PLUS from Lamy Rheology (equipped with a thermostatic bath), according to method CID-012-02, in particular for 10 min;

[0241] - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by ob Observation of the composition under an optical microscope in unpolarized light between slide and coverslip, at X10 magnification;

[0242] - the color and odor of the composition; and

[0243] - a phenomenon of macroscopic destabilization of the composition which can be ma materialize by the appearance of creaming, coalescence, sedimentation and / or flocculation, by the formation of a surface film and / or marbling...

[0244] The evaluation of the above-mentioned properties is always carried out at 25°C, regardless of whether or not the compositions to be tested have been exposed to prolonged storage conditions and / or at a temperature other than 25°C.

[0245] A composition is considered to remain stable when its properties after 15 days of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, remain close to those characterized at 24h at 25°C.

[0246] In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without destabilization phenomena and without significant changes in pH, viscosity, color and odor, it is considered to be stable.

[0247] Protocol for evaluating the “rebound” effect (“bouncv” effect1

[0248] The technical effects relating to the tactile and visual perceptions of the compositions, in particular with regard to the “rebound” effect also called the “bouncy” effect, were highlighted via the following protocol carried out by a panel of evaluators:

[0249] - placing a finger on the surface of the composition contained in a receptacle;

[0250] - performing a movement by pushing the finger perpendicular to the surface of the composition to a depth of 0.5 cm for six to ten times, at a speed of approximately two insertions per second;

[0251] - evaluation of the “bouncy” effect during the execution of the movement, in particular the greater the bounce under the finger, linked in particular to improved resistance and flexibility, and the ability of the composition to return to its initial appearance, the greater the “bouncy” effect;

[0252] - award of a mark by the evaluator for each composition, on a scale of 0 to 5 to assess the “bouncy” effect, such an effect being observed from a value greater than 3.

[0253] The “bouncy” effect is also characterized by an observation, made by the evaluators, of the compositions present respectively in a receptacle. A “bouncy” effect is observed when the composition has a dense and rounded appearance.

[0254] Example 1 - Preparation of the compositions according to the invention and comparison

[0255] Four compositions according to the invention (II to 14) and four compositions outside invention (Cl to C4) were prepared according to the preparation protocol described below with the nature of the ingredients and their respective quantities given in table 1. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Process for preparing the compositions

[0256] In a tank, the components of phase A at the bottom of the tank are heated to 70°C with stirring (blade speed: 60 rpm; turbine speed: 0 rpm). At 70°C, phase A is turbinated by starting the turbine (turbine speed: 3500 rpm) for 10 minutes.

[0257] The components of phases B1 and B2 are heated in an annex to 73°C with standard stirring. The mixture obtained is added to phase A with stirring (blade speed: 60 rpm and turbine speed: 8000 rpm). The mixture obtained is then stirred for 10 minutes. The components of phase C are added to this mixture and cooled to 40°C. The components of phase D are added at 40°C with stirring, and cooled to 30°C with stirring and under vacuum. The components of phases E, F, G and then H are added at 30°C with stirring and finally a final homogenization phase is carried out up to a temperature of 25°C, with stirring and under vacuum.

[0258] [Tables 1] Phase mgrédiest fn-om INCLUE} II 12 13 14 Cl Cl C3 C4 A CETEARYL- ALCOSOL 4.50 4*0 4.50 4.5® 4.58 4.5® 4.50 4.50 AQUA 1 17.0.80 r 17.00 17.80 .17.00 A Cliélatani 0.25 8.23 ​​0.25 8.25 0.25 8.25 0.25 A Actif anti-age 5.00 DIY 5.00 A 5.80 5.08 5.05 5.08 UM 5.00 A STEAROYL TAURATE 0.50 0.5® 8.5Q 0.58 0.50 0.50 8.50 0.5® A CcûservatetK' 3.00 3.OS 3.00 3.80 3.00 3.80 B OLEYL ERUCATE 5.00 5.08 5.0® 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.O0 5.00 S Active age 0.5.15 s1 8.15 B HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OU 2.00 2.08 2.00 2.08 2.80 2.08 2.00 2.80 B OCTYLDODECANOL 150 1.50 150 1.58 1-19A '150 B00 C 150 3.00 3.08 3.00 3.06 3.00 3.OS 3.00 ICO C AQUA 23.6S 24.98 24.38 24.2 S 34.78 24.18 34.38 24 4S 13.80 c GLYCERIN 13.00 13.00 13 80 13.00 U 30 D Anti-aging active 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.18 8.10 0.18 8.10 0.10 D AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYL-DITETHYL-DIMETHYL < TAU’0 - - - D AMMONIUM ACRYLOYL-DüMETHYTTAURATE / YTCOPOLYMER 0,50 0*0 050 9,5® 0,5® 8,50 0,50 D CARBOMER - - 03 - - - - - D ÀCRYLATES7CM-3O ALKYL AŒYLATE CROSSPOLYMER - 0,28 - 0,20 - - - - D POLYACRYLATE ŒOSSPOLYMER-S 1,50 ... - - - - - - D PÜLYACRY1AM1DE (and) C13-U ISOPARAFFIN (æd) LAURETH-? - - - - - LOS - - D SODIUM POLYACRYLATE - - - - - 0.70 D CAERAGEENAN - - - - 0,40 - - - D SCLERQTIUM GUM (asd) XANTHAN GUM - - - - - * 8,80 - D XANÏHANGUM 0.10 048 0.18 0,10 8,10 0,10 0.10 0,10 E SODRJMHYDROXIDE Qs pH= -■î ■ -104 QS?H= 5. 7' t.-04 QipH= 'X ~ --0,1 Q$ pH= 17 +M.1 Qs pH= V À-0,1 QcpH= ■ Qs nH= '17 ■A-0,1 Qs çH= 17 — 0.1 E Actif anti-âge 8,57 V7 0,57 8.57 157 8,57 157 8.57 F AQUA 3,00 3.00 3.00 3,08 3.00 3,08 3.œ 3.(8 F Actif anti-àge 0.50 0.50 0.58 0,58 0.50 0,50 0.50 0.50 G Actif anti-àge 3,00 3,08 3,00 3,OS 3,00 3,OS 3,00 3.S0 G OXiDIZED STARCH ACETATE 100 1,08 1,00 1,08 1,00 iTos 1,00 LSD G SACRES 180 108 100 LOS 1.00 108 1,00 1.80 H PARFUM 35 0 35 8 35 0 ^5 8 35 8.35 8 35 0.35 .

[0260] [Tables2] II 12 B 14 Appearance, Color, Odor Smooth and shiny cream, pearly beige, perfumed Smooth and shiny cream, white, perfumed Smooth and shiny cream, pearly beige, perfumed Smooth and shiny cream, white, perfumed Viscosity (Pa.s) 7.37 6.40 8.54 8.50 pH 5.6 5.8 5.6 5.8 Microscopic examination (X10) in unpolarized light Clear edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion Clear edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion Clear edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion Clear edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion Clear edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion

[0261] [Tables3] Cl C2 C3 C4 Appearance. Color, Odor Smooth and shiny cream, pearly beige, perfumed Smooth and shiny cream, pearly beige, perfumed Smooth and shiny cream, pearly beige, perfumed Smooth and shiny cream, pearly beige, perfumed Viscosity (Pa.s) 3.20 3.16 5.90 3.25 pH 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.8 Microscopic examination (X10) in unpolarized light Sharp edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion Sharp edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion Sharp edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion Sharp edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion

[0262] The compositions therefore prove to be satisfactory at 24 hours and 25°C in terms of properties, particularly in terms of appearance, color, odor, viscosity, pH and microscopic characteristics.

[0263] Characterization of the compositions in terms of “rebound” effect (“bouncv” effect1

[0264] The “bouncy” effect was characterized (table 4) for compositions II to 14 according to the invention (panel of thirteen evaluators) and compositions C1 to C4 outside the invention (panel of four evaluators) following the evaluation protocol described above.

[0265] [Tables4] Compositions II 12 13 14 Cl C2 C3 C4 Average of the marks 5 3.9 3.9 3.9 0 0 0 3 Visual aspect Dense and rounded Without dense and rounded appearance

[0266] It is found that compositions II to 14 according to the invention have an effect “rebound” (“bouncy” effect), in particular tactile and visual, significantly higher, in particular composition II according to the invention, than that manifested by comparative compositions C1 to C4.

[0267] Example 2 - Characterization of the storage stability of the compositions according to the invention of Example 1

[0268] The stability of compositions II to 14 according to the invention was re-evaluated after 15 days of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C (Table 5).

[0269] [Tables5] II 12 13 14 Appearance. Color, Odor (at 4°C and at 25°C) Smooth and glossy cream, pearly beige, perfumed Smooth and glossy cream, pearly beige, perfumed Smooth and glossy cream, pearly beige, perfumed Smooth and glossy cream, pearly beige, perfumed Appearance, Color, Odor (at 45°C) Smooth and glossy cream, dark beige color, discreet and pleasant odor Smooth and glossy cream, dark beige color, discreet and pleasant odor Smooth and glossy cream, dark beige color, discreet and pleasant odor Smooth and glossy cream, dark beige color, discreet and pleasant odor Microscopic examination (XI0) in unpolarized light (at 4°C, at 25°C and at 45°C) Clean edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion Clean edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion Clean edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion Clean edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion Clean edges, fine, tight and homogeneous emulsion

[0270] Compositions II to 14 according to the invention prove to be satisfactory in terms of properties after 15 days and at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, particularly in terms of appearance, color, odor and microscopic characteristics. Compositions II to 14 according to the invention therefore remain stable after 15 days and at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, more particularly under drastic conditions at 15 days and 45°C.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, and in particular chosen from surfactants further comprising at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates and mixtures thereof; (c) at least one polyacrylamide polymer chosen from homopolymers and / or copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and mixtures thereof; and (d) at least one non-ionic carboxyvinyl polymer.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said polyacrylamide polymer (c) is selected from 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid copolymers and mixtures thereof, more particularly from ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acry-loyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and mixtures thereof, and even more particularly the polyacrylamide polymer (c) is at least the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, comprising from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of polyacrylamide polymer(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said carboxyvinyl polymer (d) is chosen from polymers with INCI names: Carbomer, Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3.5% by weight of carboxyvinyl polymer(s) (d) relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of at least two saturated fatty alcohols respectively C16 and C[8, preferably in a C16 fatty alcohol(s) / C[8 fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio varying from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20, and advantageously in a C16 fatty alcohol(s) / C[8 fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio equal to 50 / 50.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said saturated fatty alcohol (a) is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 2.5% to 7% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said anionic surfactant (b) contains a single C16-C22, preferably C16-C18, hydrocarbon chain.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function and their mixtures.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from surfactants of general formula (I): RCOY(CH2)nSO3M (I) in which - R represents a saturated, linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group; - Y represents -O- or -NR4- with R4 representing a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group; - M is chosen from the group formed by a hydrogen atom, alkali or alkaline earth metal cations, ammonium salts and organic amines; - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3; and mixtures thereof.

12. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said anionic surfactant (b) is at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mass ratio of fatty alcohol(s) (a) / anionic surfactant(s) (b) varying from 10:1 to 6:4, preferably from 19:2 to 7:3, and even more preferably from 9:1 to 7:

2.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising: - from 2% to 10% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol; - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate; - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of polyacrylamide polymer(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one polyacrylamide polymer chosen from ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and mixtures thereof; and - 0.01% to 5% by weight of carboxyvinyl polymer(s) (d), including at least one carboxyvinyl polymer chosen from the polymers with INCI name: carbomer, Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, and mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight of silicone compound(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly free of silicone compound(s).

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, more particularly less than 0.5% by weight, even more particularly less than 0.1% by weight of clay(s), including in particular unmodified and / or modified clay(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular free of clay(s).

18. Process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims is applied to the keratin material.

19. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17, in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin, body or face, or for the care of the hair.