Composition comprising at least one particular agent, at least one particular antioxidant agent and at least one polyol
The composition of aliphatic acid, aromatic ketone antioxidant, and polyol in hair care products addresses the limitations of existing products by enhancing detangling, coating, and antimicrobial properties, effectively managing scalp discomfort and microbial balance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023014709
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care products fail to provide long-lasting cosmetic benefits and effective microbial control, particularly against difficult-to-eliminate microorganisms like Aspergillus brasiliensis, while maintaining scalp balance and hair health.
A composition comprising at least one aliphatic acid, an aromatic ketone antioxidant, and a polyol, which provides enhanced detangling, coating, and antimicrobial properties, effectively addressing scalp discomfort and maintaining microbial balance.
The composition achieves improved detangling and coating of hair, while providing enhanced antimicrobial activity against Aspergillus brasiliensis and other microorganisms, thus addressing scalp discomfort and maintaining scalp balance.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least one particular agent, at least one particular antioxidant agent and at least one polyol
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one particular agent, at least one particular antioxidant agent and at least one polyol.
[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using this composition and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, and also for maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp. Technical field
[0003] Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, or even repeated washing.
[0004] The hair is thus damaged by these different factors and can in the long run become dry, rough, brittle or dull, particularly in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.
[0005] Furthermore, consumers may experience problems with itching of the scalp (also called scalp in the present description), but also with tingling or even a feeling of heating, or even flaking of the scalp.
[0006] To overcome these drawbacks, it is usual to use hair care products which use compositions intended to condition the hair, providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular smoothing, suppleness, a natural feel and good detangling properties, and which provide short-term effects making it possible to deal with the effects of scalp discomfort, with instant relief.
[0007] However, the products existing on the market do not necessarily give complete satisfaction and can still be improved, particularly concerning cosmetic properties, such as feel. In addition, these products do not always have good stability over time with a degradation of the condition of said product which can be observed.
[0008] Furthermore, cosmetic compositions that contain a significant water content, and in particular shampoos, must contain preservatives to prevent the growth of microorganisms. The microorganisms may be molds such as Aspergillus brasiliensis, yeasts such as Candida albicans, or bacteria such as Enterococcus faecalis. Some microorganisms, such as Aspergillus brasiliensis, are particularly difficult to eliminate. However, these compositions are not always satisfactory at present, particularly when their pH is close to neutral.
[0009] There is therefore a real need to provide a composition which makes it possible to prevent the growth of microorganisms and to reduce or even eliminate the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort, such as tingling, itching and / or the feeling of heating, while maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp (maintaining and / or restoring the ecoflora of the scalp to a normal level), and while preserving good cosmetic properties for the hair and roots, such as good coating and good detangling.
[0010] It has been surprisingly discovered that a particular cosmetic composition makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above. Statement of the invention
[0011] The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising:
[0012] a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one ali chain linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted phatic, containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts; and
[0013] b) at least one antioxidant agent chosen from aromatic ketones; and
[0014] c) at least one polyol, different from agent b).
[0015] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide good cosmetic properties to keratin fibers, such as good detangling of wet hair as well as good coating to the touch of wet hair.
[0016] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to maintain or even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp. It also has enhanced activity against Aspergillus brasiliensis, Candida albicans and Enterococcus faecalis.
[0017] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.
[0018] The present invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp (or scalp) and hair.
[0019] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition such as defined above to maintain or even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.
[0020] Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear more clearly on examining the detailed description and the attached drawings in which:
[0021] [Fig-1] is a photo of a comb on strands of hair treated by a com position according to the invention;
[0022] [Fig.2] is a photograph of a comb on strands of hair treated with a comparative composition.
[0023] The expression “at least one” means one or more.
[0024] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0025] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within variants not illustrated.
[0026] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. Agent a)
[0027] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts.
[0028] Preferably, agent a) is chosen from carboxylic acids comprising 3 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular monocarboxylic acids, and very particularly acids comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts.
[0029] Preferably, the acid(s) comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably propionic acid.
[0030] The salts of the acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from the salts of alkali metals, of alkaline earth metals, more preferably from the salts of alkali metals, better still the salts of sodium or potassium, better still of sodium.
[0031] Advantageously, the agent(s) a) are chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, their salts and their mixtures, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, magnesium salts, potassium salts of propionic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably among sodium propionate.
[0032] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of the agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0033] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of the agent(s) a) chosen from propionic acid and its salts ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0034] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of sodium propionate ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Antioxidant agent
[0035] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one antioxidant agent b) chosen from aromatic ketones.
[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “antioxidant agent” means an agent which slows down or prevents the oxidation of other chemical substances upon contact with it.
[0037] Preferably, the antioxidant agent(s) b) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I): o ®
[0038] in which:
[0039] - R is a substituted or unsubstituted aromatic ring, preferably substituted by one or several alkyl, hydroxyl, amino, and / or thiol groups;
[0040] - R' is a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms.
[0041] More preferably, the antioxidant agent(s) are chosen from those of formula (I) in which:
[0042] - R is an aromatic ring substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, more preferably substituted by a single hydroxyl group;
[0043] - R' is a linear alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, amino, and / or thiols.
[0044] As examples of preferred aromatic ketones according to the invention, mention may be made of hydroxyacetophenones such as p-hydroxyacetophenone (or 4-hydroxy acetophenone), 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, alpha hydroxy-acetophenone and mixtures thereof.
[0045] Preferably, the antioxidant agent is p-hydroxyacetophenone.
[0046] Advantageously, the total content of the antioxidant agent(s) b) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] Advantageously, the total content of the antioxidant agent(s) chosen from hydroxyacetophenones ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0048] Advantageously, the total content of p-hydroxyacetophenone ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyol
[0049] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol c), different from agent b).
[0050] Preferably, the polyol(s) c) are chosen from polyols comprising at least two hydroxyl groups. Said polyol(s) comprising at least two hydroxyl groups may be chosen from cyclic or aliphatic, linear or branched polyols. They may comprise one or more heteroatoms, in particular oxygen, in their chain.
[0051] They can comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 2 to 4 hydroxyl groups.
[0052] More preferably, the polyol(s) c) are chosen from diols, more preferably glycols comprising two hydroxyl groups, even more preferably glycols comprising two hydroxyl groups and comprising a linear or branched C 1 to C 10 alkyl chain.
[0053] Thus, preferably, the polyol(s) c) are chosen from polyols comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably from diols, more preferably from glycols comprising two hydroxyl groups, even more preferably from glycols comprising two hydroxyl groups and comprising a linear or branched C 1 to C 10 alkyl chain.
[0054] In a particularly preferred manner, the polyol(s) c) are chosen from pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof, better still the polyol c) is pentylene glycol.
[0055] Advantageously, the total content of the polyol(s) c) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Compound d)
[0056] The composition according to the invention may further comprise d) at least one compound chosen from pyridine derivatives and their solvates, such as hydrates, carboxylic acids and their salts, other than compounds (a), and their mixtures.
[0057] Compounds d) according to the invention are different from compounds a), b) and c) previously described.
[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pyridine derivative” is understood to mean any compound comprising at least one pyridine ring within the structure of said compound.
[0059] Preferably, the pyridine derivative(s) and its solvates, such as hydrates, are substituted by at least one group chosen from:
[0060] - hydroxy;
[0061] - di(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino;
[0062] - thiol;
[0063] - (thio)carboxy;
[0064] - (thio)amido of formula R4R5N-C(X1)-, with XI representing O, S or NR6, R4, R5 and R6, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group;
[0065] - (thio)urea of formula R7R8N-C(X2)-N(R9)-, with X2 representing O, S or NRw, R7 in Rio, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group;
[0066] - (thio)carbonyl of formula Rn-C(X3)-, with X3 representing O or S, and RI 1 re having a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally substituted;
[0067] preferably amido of formula R4R5N-C(O)-, more preferably NH2-C(O)-.
[0068] Particularly preferably, the pyridine derivative is niacinamide.
[0069] Preferably, the carboxylic acid(s) are chosen from p-anisic acid and levulinic acid and their mixture.
[0070] Preferably, the composition is free of phenoxyethanol.
[0071] According to a preferred embodiment, compound d) is chosen from niacinamide, p-anisic acid and levulinic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0072] The total content of the compound(s) d) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. PH
[0073] The composition according to the invention may have a pH ranging from 6 to 8, preferably from 6.5 to 7.5, more preferably from 6.7 to 7.3.
[0074] Thus, the composition according to the invention comprises water, preferably in a total content ranging from 40 to 95% by weight, better still from 60 to 90% by weight, even better still from 75 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0075] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents commonly used. Among the alkalinizing agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of ammonia, alkanolamines, mineral or organic hydroxides, for example sodium hydroxide. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as for example acetic acid, sulfonic acids. Surfactant
[0076] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant, more preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0078] Anionic surfactant
[0079] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.
[0080] In the present description, an entity is described as being “anionic” when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
[0081] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants. A mixture of these anionic surfactants may of course be used.
[0082] It is understood in this description that:
[0083] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one car- carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO), and may optionally include furthermore one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;
[0084] - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise a carboxylate function; and
[0085] - the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.
[0086] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that can be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).
[0087] They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyl-lactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acylalaninates; acyl-thionates, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkyl ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(aryl C6-C30)ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; and their mixtures;
[0088] the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0089] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0090] It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.
[0091] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds proposed by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.
[0092] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
[0093] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoyl- glutamates and cocoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium cocoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate;
[0094] - acylalaninates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as cocoyl alaninates, and in particular sodium cocoyl alaninate;
[0095] - acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitoyl- sarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, cocoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate;
[0096] - acyllactylates, particularly Ci2-C28, or even Ci4-C24, such as behenoyl- lactylates and lauroyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate;
[0097] - C6-C24 acylglycinates; or even C12-C20, such as cocoyl and lauroyl glycinates, and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate and sodium lauroyl glycinate;
[0098] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates carboxylates;
[0099] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in par particularly those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
[0100] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0101] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).
[0102] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
[0103] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0104] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0105] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
[0106] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsul- fosuccinates;
[0107] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;
[0108] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C20)acylisethionates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl isethionates, and in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl isethionate;
[0109] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0110] The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
[0111] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether- sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
[0112] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0113] these compounds may be (poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular (poly)oxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0114] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
[0115] - alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20,
[0116] - alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising preferably from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
[0117] - their salts, in particular the salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol, in particular sodium alkyl ether (Ci2-C20) sulfates.
[0118] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
[0119] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.
[0120] Preferably, salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0121] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
[0122] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20;
[0123] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, especially C12-C20; preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
[0124] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsul- fosuccinates;
[0125] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;
[0126] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;
[0127] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20; especially palmitoylsar- cosinates;
[0128] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates
[0129] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)(amido)ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;
[0130] - C6-C24 acylglutamates, in particular C12-C2o;
[0131] - C6-C24 acylalaninates, in particular C12-C20;
[0132] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;
[0133] - as well as their salts, in particular their alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts or zinc, ammonium, or amino alcohol;
[0134] - and their mixtures.
[0135] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, of ammonium or of amino alcohol, and their mixtures; more preferably from C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, their salts and their mixtures; even more preferably from sodium C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates and their mixtures, better still from sodium laureth sulfate.
[0136] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant
[0137] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0138] Preferably, these surfactants are non-silicone.
[0139] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following respective formulas (3) and (4):
[0140] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (3)
[0141] in which:
[0142] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
[0143] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and
[0144] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
[0145] - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and
[0146] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;
[0147] Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)
[0148] in which:
[0149] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';
[0150] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;
[0151] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 - COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
[0152] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;
[0153] - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;
[0154] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra -COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.
[0155] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoampho-dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho-dipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0156] As an example, we can cite the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
[0157] Compounds of formula (5) can also be used:
[0158] Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n -N(Rd)(Re) (5)
[0159] in which:
[0160] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z” ;
[0161] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hy- radical C1-C4 droxyalkyl;
[0162] - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion from an organic amine;
[0163] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra -COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;
[0164] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
[0165] Among the compounds of formula (5) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
[0166] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.
[0167] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines, as well as the compounds of formulae (3), (4) and (5) as defined above.
[0168] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.
[0169] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
[0170] Even more preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines and their mixtures, better still, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocobetaine.
[0171] Advantageously, the total content of the surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0172] Advantageously, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] Advantageously, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio between the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) and the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1, more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, even more preferably greater than or equal to 2, better still greater than or equal to 2.5. Said ratio may be between 1 and 10, more preferably between 1.5 and 8, better still between 2 and 6. Additives
[0175] The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used other than the compounds previously described.
[0176] Among the additives that may be used, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, moisturizing agents, UV filters, solubilizers, perfumes, proteins, vitamins, polymers, cationic polysaccharides, fatty substances and their mixtures.
[0177] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.
[0178] Another object of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp (or scalp) and hair.
[0179] Another object of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention to maintain or even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.
[0180] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES
[0181] In the examples below, all compositions have a pH equal to 7 + / -0.3. Example 1
[0182] Compositions A1 and A2, as described in Table 1 below, were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material (% MA) unless otherwise stated.
[0183] [Tables 1] Compositions Al (invention) A2 (comparative) Sodium laureth sulfate 8.4 8.4 Cocobetaine 3 3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.12 0.12 Sodium chloride 0.65 0.65 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.15 0.15 Sodium propionate 2 - p-hydroxyacetophenone 1 1 Pentylene glycol 2 2 p-anisic acid 0.25 0.25 pH agent Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0184] Thus, composition A1 is a composition according to the invention. Composition A2 is a comparative composition. (a) Evaluation of microbiological performance
[0185] The effectiveness of the compositions is evaluated by means of the Challenge test which makes it possible to determine the level of antimicrobial protection of a composition.
[0186] It consists of artificial contamination of the product to be tested by various microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts and molds) and monitoring of the number of viable germs over time. A satisfactorily protected product must allow decontamination of the introduced microorganisms.
[0187] The product is distributed in a pillbox into which a calibrated suspension of microorganisms is introduced, here the mold Aspergillus brasiliensis. A sample is taken to count the microorganisms remaining in the product after 7 days of contact between the product and the germ.
[0188] The dilutions made to carry out the counts are inoculated onto Petri dishes. The kinetics (growth or decrease) for the germ is then expressed as a logarithmic reduction at a given time.
[0189] The microbiological risk is considered acceptable when the logarithmic reduction of the germ considered is greater than or equal to 3 after 7 days of germ / product contact; that is to say that the cosmetic product is protected against a proli microbial fermentation that may pose a potential risk to the user.
[0190] Compositions A1 and A2 were subjected to the Challenge test according to the protocol previously described. The results on the microbial strain Aspergillus brasiliensis after 7 days of germ / product contact are given in the following table 2:
[0191] [Tables2] Compositions Al (invention) A2 (comparative) Logarithmic reduction rate after 7 days of germ contact (Aspergillus brasiliensis ^ / product >4 1.7
[0192] Thus, the example shows that composition Al exhibits better antimicrobial activity, particularly after 7 days of contact with Aspergillus brasiliensis, than that of comparative composition A2. Example 2
[0193] Compositions B1 and B2, as described in Table 3 below, were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material (% MA) unless otherwise stated.
[0194] [Tables3] Compositions B1 (invention) B2 (comparative) Sodium laureth sulfate 8.4 8.4 Cocobetaine 3 3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.12 0.12 Sodium chloride 0.65 0.65 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.15 0.15 Sodium propionate 2 - p-hydroxyacetophenone 1 1 Pentylene glycol 2 2 Caprylyl glycol 0.5 0.5 pH agent Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0195] Composition B1 is a composition according to the invention. Composition B2 is a comparative composition.
[0196] Compositions B1 and B2 were subjected to the Challenge test according to the protocol previously described. The results on the microbial strain Aspergillus brasiliensis after 7 days of germ / product contact are given in the following table 4:
[0197] [Tables4] Compositions B1 (invention) B2 (comparative) Logarithmic reduction rate after 7 days of germ contact (Aspergillus brasiliensis ^ / product >4 1.5
[0198] Thus, the example shows that composition B1 exhibits better antimicrobial activity, particularly after 7 days of contact with Aspergillus brasiliensis, than that of comparative composition B2. Example 3
[0199] Compositions C1 and C2, as described in Table 5 below, were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material (% MA) unless otherwise stated.
[0200] [Tables5] Compositions Cl (invention) C2 (comparative) Sodium laureth sulfate 8.4 8.4 Cocobetaine 3 3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.12 0.12 Sodium chloride 0.65 0.65 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.15 0.15 Sodium propionate 1 - p-hydroxyacetophenone 1 1 Glycerin 0.2 0.2 Pentylene glycol 2 2 Levulinic acid (and) sodium levulinate 0.6 0.6 pH agent qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0201] Composition C1 is a composition according to the invention. Composition C2 is a comparative composition.
[0202] Compositions C1 and C2 were subjected to the Challenge test according to the protocol previously described. The results on the microbial strain Aspergillus brasiliensis after 7 days of germ / product contact are given in the following table 6:
[0203] [Tableauxô] Compositions Cl (invention) C2 (comparative) Logarithmic reduction rate after 7 days of germ (Aspergillus brasiliensis) / product contact 3.3 1
[0204] Thus, the example shows that composition C1 exhibits better antimicrobial activity, particularly after 7 days of contact with Aspergillus brasiliensis, than that of comparative composition C2. Example 4
[0205] Compositions DI and D2, as described in Table 7 below, were prepared: quantities are expressed in g of active ingredient (% MA) unless otherwise stated.
[0206] [Tables?] Compositions DI (invention) D2 (comparative) Sodium laureth sulfate 8.4 8.4 Cocobetaine 3 3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.12 0.12 Sodium chloride 0.65 0.65 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.15 0.15 Sodium propionate 2 - p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.75 0.75 Pentylene glycol 2 2 Niacinamide 2 2 pH agent qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0207] Composition DI is a composition according to the invention. Composition D2 is a comparative composition. a) Microbiological performance
[0208] Compositions DI and D2 were subjected to the Challenge test according to the protocol previously described. The results on the microbial strain Aspergillus brasiliensis after 7 days of germ / product contact are given in the following table 8:
[0209] [Tables8] Compositions DI (invention) D2 (comparative) Logarithmic reduction rate after 7 days of germ (Aspergillus brasiliensis) / product contact >4 0.5
[0210] Thus, the example shows that composition DI exhibits better antimicrobial activity, particularly after 7 days of contact with Aspergillus brasiliensis, than that of comparative composition D2. b) Cosmetic performance
[0211] Compositions DI and D2 were applied to strands of natural Caucasian hair at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per g of hair. The hair was then kneaded and allowed to foam, and the compositions were then left to stand for 1 minute. The strands were rinsed with lukewarm water for 15 seconds and then wrung out.
[0212] The ease of detangling is then assessed on damp hair.
[0213] Visual observation
[0214] The ease of detangling is assessed by sliding the small teeth of a comb from the top of the strand to the bottom of the strand. When the movement is hindered by a knot, a photo is taken and allows the length of detangled hair to be compared, as can be seen in Figures 1 and 2. It is thus possible to compare the cosmetic effectiveness of the compositions.
[0215] [Fig. 1] is a representation of a comb sliding over a lock treated with composition DI according to the invention. [Fig. 2] is a representation of a comb sliding over a lock treated with comparative composition D2.
[0216] Thus, it was observed in Figures 1 and 2 that the comb sliding on the lock treated with the comparative composition D2 was stopped higher by a knot than the comb sliding on the lock treated with the composition DI according to the invention.
[0217] Thus, detangling is improved for the locks of hair treated with the composition according to the invention D1, compared to the locks of hair treated with the comparative composition D2. Example 5
[0218] Compositions E1 and E2, as described in Table 9 below, were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material (% MA) unless otherwise stated.
[0219] [Tables9] Compositions El (invention) E2 (comparative) Sodium laureth sulfate 8.4 8.4 Cocobetaine 3 3 Sodium chloride 0.65 0.65 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.15 0.15 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 Sodium propionate 2 - p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 Pentylene glycol 2 2 Ascorbyl glucoside 3 3 Perfumes qs qs pH agent qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Cosmetic performance
[0220] Compositions E1 and E2 were applied to strands of natural Caucasian hair at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per g of hair. The hair was then kneaded and allowed to foam, and the compositions were then left to stand for 1 minute. The strands were rinsed with lukewarm water for 15 seconds and then wrung out.
[0221] The coating of the strands is assessed by touch on damp hair.
[0222] Tactile evaluation
[0223] The coating performance, i.e. the presence of a deposit on the fiber, was evaluated by 5 experts. The performance was evaluated in a blind test in which each of the 5 experts assigned a score in the range from 0 (no coating to the touch) to 5 (very good coating to the touch) to each of the hair strands. In other words, the closer the score is to 5, the better the coating performance.
[0224] To assess the coating by touch, the expert grasps the lock of hair and slides his fingers from the root to the tip. The more significant, homogeneous and uneven the deposit, the better the coating.
[0225] The results are collected in Table 10 below:
[0226] [TableauxlO] Compositions El (invention) E2 (comparative) Expert 1 4 2.5 Expert 2 4 2.5 Expert 3 4 3 Expert 4 4 2 Expert 5 4 3 Average 4 2.6 Standard deviation 0 0.4
[0227] It is clear that the locks of hair treated with the composition El according to the invention have an improved coating to the touch on damp hair compared to locks of hair treated with the comparative composition E2. Thus, the locks of hair treated with the composition El according to the invention are perceived to the touch as less “raw”, less rough and more treated than the locks of hair treated with the comparative composition E2.
Claims
Claims ^Claim 1] Composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts; and b) at least one antioxidant agent chosen from aromatic ketones; and c) at least one polyol, different from agent b). ^Claim 2] Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the agent(s) a) are chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, their salts and their mixtures, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, the magnesium salts, the potassium salts of propionic acid and their mixtures, more preferably from sodium propionate.^Claim 3] Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of the agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.^Claim 4] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the antioxidant agent(s) b) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I): o ® R^R' in which: - R is a substituted or unsubstituted aromatic ring, preferably substituted by one or more alkyl, hydroxyl, amino, and / or thiol groups, preferentially substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, more preferentially substituted by a single hydroxyl group; - R' is a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, preferably linear, comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl, amino, and / or thiol groups. ^Claim 5] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, ca-. characterized in that the total content of the antioxidant agent(s) b) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol(s) c) are chosen from polyols comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably from diols, more preferably from glycols comprising two hydroxyl groups, even more preferably from glycols comprising two hydroxyl groups and comprising a linear or branched C 1 to C 10 alkyl chain.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the polyol(s) c) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises d) at least one compound, different from compounds a), b) and c), chosen from pyridine derivatives and their solvates, such as hydrates, carboxylic acids and their salts, and their mixtures.
9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of the compound(s) d) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pH of the composition ranges from 6 to 8, preferably from 6.5 to 7.5, more preferably from 6.7 to 7.
3.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of the surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Cosmetic treatment process, preferably of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
14. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, for cosmetic treatment, in particular of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair.
15. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, for maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.
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