Composition comprising a particular agent, and an antioxidant agent chosen from ascorbic acid, its derivatives and its isomers

Abstract

Title: Composition comprising a particular agent, and an antioxidant agent chosen from ascorbic acid, its derivatives and its isomers The present invention relates to a composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts; b) at least one antioxidant agent chosen from ascorbic acid, its derivatives, its isomers, their salts, and their mixtures.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a particular agent, and an antioxidant agent chosen from ascorbic acid, its derivatives and its isomers

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts, and at least one specific antioxidant agent.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using this composition and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials. Technical field

[0003] Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, or even repeated washing.

[0004] The hair is thus damaged by these different factors and can in the long run become dry, rough, brittle or dull, particularly in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

[0005] Furthermore, consumers may experience problems with itching of the scalp (also called scalp in the present description), but also with tingling or even a feeling of heating, or even flaking of the scalp.

[0006] To overcome these drawbacks, it is usual to use hair care products which use compositions intended to condition the hair, providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular smoothing, suppleness, a natural feel and good detangling properties, and which provide short-term effects making it possible to deal with the effects of scalp discomfort, with instant relief.

[0007] However, the products existing on the market do not necessarily give complete satisfaction and can still be improved, particularly concerning cosmetic properties. In particular, these products do not always have good stability over time with a degradation of the condition of said product which can be observed.

[0008] There is therefore a real need to provide a composition that makes it possible to reduce, or even eliminate, the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort, such as tingling, itching and / or the feeling of heating, while maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp (maintaining and / or restoring the ecoflora of the scalp to a normal level), and preserving good cosmetic properties for the hair and roots, such as a non-greasy feel in line with consumer expectations for this type of product, good individualization (good looseness), and which also has good stability over time.

[0009] There is also a need to provide a composition that achieves anti-dandruff performance close to that of octopirox, and performance against adherent and non-adherent dandruff on the scalp.

[0010] It has been surprisingly discovered that a particular cosmetic composition makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above. Statement of the invention

[0011] The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising:

[0012] a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one ali chain linear or branched phatic, saturated or unsaturated, containing 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts;

[0013] b) at least one antioxidant agent chosen from ascorbic acid, its derivatives, its isomers, their salts, and their mixtures.

[0014] The composition according to the invention allows better stability of the active ingredients in the composition; in particular, the composition according to the invention has good stability over time, in particular after periods of storage at room temperature (from 15 to 25°C) (no phase separation, cloudiness and / or coloring of the composition, for example), but also at lower temperatures (around 5°C) and also higher temperatures (around 45°C).

[0015] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to maintain or even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0016] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0017] The present invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and the hair.

[0018] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above for maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0019] The expression “at least one” means one or more.

[0020] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0021] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within non-illustrated variants.

[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. Agent a)

[0023] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts.

[0024] Preferably, the agent a) is chosen from carboxylic acids comprising 3 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular monocarboxylic acids, and very particularly acids comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts.

[0025] Preferably, the acid(s) comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably propionic acid.

[0026] The salts of the acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, more preferably from salts of alkali metals, better still sodium or potassium salts, better still sodium.

[0027] Advantageously, the agent a) is chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, their salts and their mixtures, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, the magnesium salts, the potassium salts of propionic acid and their mixtures, more preferably from sodium propionate.

[0028] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of propionic acid and / or one of its salts ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of sodium propionate ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Antioxidant agent b)

[0031] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one antioxidant agent b) chosen from ascorbic acid, its derivatives, its isomers, their salts, and their mixtures.

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “antioxidant agent” means an agent which slows down or prevents the oxidation of other chemical substances upon contact with it.

[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "ascorbic acid derivatives" may be understood to mean those obtained by blocking at least one of the hydroxyl sites, in particular by esterification or etherification with, for example, phosphate, sulfate or alkyl compounds. These may include, in particular, ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucoside.

[0034] The salts of ascorbic acid may be chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts.

[0035] Advantageously, the antioxidant agent b) is chosen from ascorbic acid, its derivatives, such as its esters, and their mixtures, more preferably the antioxidant agent b) is ascorbyl glucoside

[0036] Advantageously, the total content of antioxidant agent(s) b) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Advantageously, the total content of ascorbyl glucoside ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Monoalcohols in Cl to C6

[0038] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one monoalcohol c) in C1 to C6.

[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “mono alcohol” means an alcohol which comprises exactly one hydroxyl function -OH.

[0040] Thus, by “mono alcohol C1 to C6”, we mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a alcohol comprising exactly one hydroxyl function -OH and which comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0041] Advantageously, the monoalcohol(s) are C1 to C4, in particular chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and their mixtures, preferably the monoalcohol(s) are C1 to C3, more preferably the monoalcohol is ethanol.

[0042] Advantageously, the total content of C1 to C6 monoalcohol(s) ranges from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Preferably, the ethanol content ranges from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactants

[0044] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant d).

[0045] The non-ionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition of the present invention are for example described in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0046] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, the following compounds may be mentioned, alone or in a mixture: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, - oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan esters, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or not, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives; - amine oxides.

[0047] The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Cl-C20)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.

[0048] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0049] Mention may in particular be made of C8 to C40 fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles, or even from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18; in particular lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: LAURETH-4).

[0050] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan can be chosen from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquii-sostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

[0051] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acids and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide may be chosen from esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-85).

[0052] The oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or not, saturated or not, may be such as sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil (or copra), coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, rosehip oil, Castor oil, Rye oil, Sesame oil, Rice bran oil, Camelina oil, Soybean oil, Sunflower oil, Pracaxi oil, Babassu oil, Mongongo oil, Marula oil, Arara oil, Shea butter oil, Brazil nut oil.In particular, hydrogenated vegetable oils include hydrogenated palm oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

[0053] The number of moles of ethylene oxide in the oxyethylenated vegetable oils can range from 2 to 200, preferably from 10 to 100, preferentially from 20 to 80.

[0054] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from C8 to C40 fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated, preferably comprising from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters and sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or unsaturated, and mixtures thereof, preferably oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or unsaturated, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil.

[0056] Advantageously, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Antioxidant agent e)

[0057] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one anti- additional antioxidant e), different from antioxidant agent b) as defined above.

[0058] Advantageously, the additional antioxidant agent(s) e) are chosen from retinol and its esters, in particular retinyl palmitate; butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and butylhydroxyanisole (BHA); N,N'-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts; baicalin; hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p-hydroxycetophenone, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of additional antioxidant agent(s) e) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise an additional antioxidant agent e) different from the antioxidant agent b) as defined above.

[0061] In particular, the composition according to the invention does not comprise an antioxidant agent chosen from tocopherol, its salts and / or its derivatives, in particular its esters, such as tocopherol acetate.

[0062] The composition according to the invention may comprise water, preferably at a content ranging from 40 to 95% by weight, better still from 60 to 90% by weight, even better still from 70 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives

[0063] The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

[0064] Among the additives that may be used, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, moisturizing agents, UV filters, solubilizers, perfumes, proteins, vitamins other than the compounds previously described, polymers, preservatives, fatty substances and their mixtures.

[0065] The pH of the composition according to the invention, when it is aqueous, advantageously varies from 5 to 9, preferably from 6 to 8, more preferably from 6.5 to 7.5.

[0066] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents or acidifying agents commonly used. Among the alkalizing agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of ammonia, alkanolamines, mineral or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as for example acetic acid, sulfonic acids.

[0067] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0068] Another object of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for cosmetic treatment, in particular of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair.

[0069] Another object of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention to maintain or even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0070] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES

[0071] Compositions A1 and A2, as described in Table 1 below, were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material (% MA) unless otherwise stated.

[0072] [Tables 1] Compositions Al (invention) A2 (comparative) Sodium propionate 1 1 Ascorbyl glucoside 3 - Tocopherol - 3 PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil) 1.2 1.2 Ethanol 20 20 perfume 0.5 0.5 Agents qs pH = 7 Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0073] Thus, composition A1 is a composition according to the invention. Composition A2 is a comparative composition. Stability assessment

[0074] The compositions were poured into bottles and then stored at 4°C, room temperature (25°C) and 45°C, respectively. The appearance of the compositions is observed after 2 months of storage. The stability of each of the compositions is then evaluated by visual observation.

[0075] The results of the observations are summarized in Table 2.

[0076] [Tables2] 2 months at 4°C 2 months at 25°C 2 months at 45°C Composition Al (invention) Stable compound (no coloration, cloudiness or phase shift) Stable compound (no coloration, cloudiness or phase shift) Stable compound (no coloration, cloudiness or phase shift) Composition A2 (comparative) Opaque compound (phase shift and coloration (oxidation)) Opaque compound (phase shift and coloration (oxidation)) Opaque compound (phase shift and coloration (oxidation))

[0077] Thus, it was found that composition A1 exhibited improved stability compared to composition A2.

[0078] The composition according to the invention therefore has improved stability over time.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain, containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts; b) at least one antioxidant agent chosen from ascorbic acid, its derivatives, its isomers, their salts, and their mixtures.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the agent a) is chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, their salts and their mixtures, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, the magnesium salts, the potassium salts of propionic acid and their mixtures, more preferably from sodium propionate.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the antioxidant agent b) is chosen from ascorbic acid, its derivatives, such as its esters, and their mixtures, more preferably the antioxidant agent b) is ascorbyl glucoside.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of antioxidant agent(s) b) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one monoalcohol c) in C1 to C6, preferably in C1 to C4, more preferably in C1 to C3, even more preferably the monoalcohol is ethanol.

7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of C1 to C6 monoalcohol(s) ranges from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant d).

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from C8 to C40 fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated, preferably comprising from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters and sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or unsaturated, and mixtures thereof, preferably oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or unsaturated, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that the content of non-ionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Cosmetic treatment process, preferably of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

12. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10, for cosmetic treatment, in particular of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair.

13. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10, for maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.