Composition comprising at least one particular agent, at least one particular antioxidant agent, at least one hydroxylated compound, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant,

A composition with a specific blend of agents and surfactants addresses the challenges of hair detangling, scalp comfort, and microbial balance, achieving effective and long-lasting cosmetic and antimicrobial benefits for hair and scalp health.

FR3157142A1Pending Publication Date: 2025-06-27LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023014712
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-12-21
Publication Date
2025-06-27

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair care products fail to provide long-lasting cosmetic benefits, such as detangling and scalp comfort, while also effectively preventing microbial growth and maintaining scalp flora balance.

Method used

A composition comprising specific agents, including acids with aliphatic chains, aromatic ketones as antioxidants, hydroxylated compounds, anionic surfactants, and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, in a specific weight ratio, which is applied to keratin materials to enhance hair and scalp health.

Benefits of technology

The composition effectively detangles hair, provides long-lasting scalp comfort, enhances microbial balance, and exhibits enhanced antimicrobial activity against Aspergillus brasiliensis, Candida albicans, and Enterococcus faecalis.

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Abstract

Title: Composition comprising at least one particular agent, at least one particular antioxidant agent, at least one hydroxylated compound, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant, said surfactants being present in a specific weight ratio The present invention relates to a composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts; b) at least one antioxidant agent chosen from aromatic ketones; c) at least one hydroxylated compound different from agent a) and agent b); d) at least one anionic surfactant; and e) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant; and in which the weight ratio between the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) and the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is greater than or equal to 1.
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Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least one particular agent, at least one particular antioxidant agent, at least one hydroxylated compound, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant, said surfactants being present in a specific weight ratio

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one particular agent, at least one particular antioxidant agent, at least one hydroxylated compound, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant, the weight ratio between the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) and the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) being greater than or equal to 1.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using this composition and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, and also for maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp. Technical field

[0003] Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, or even repeated washing.

[0004] The hair is thus damaged by these different factors and can in the long run become dry, rough, brittle or dull, particularly in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

[0005] Furthermore, consumers may experience problems with itching of the scalp (also called scalp in the present description), but also with tingling or even a feeling of heating, or even flaking of the scalp.

[0006] To overcome these drawbacks, it is usual to use hair care products which use compositions intended to condition the hair, providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular smoothing, suppleness, a natural feel and good detangling properties, and which provide short-term effects making it possible to deal with the effects of scalp discomfort, with instant relief.

[0007] Nevertheless, the products existing on the market do not necessarily give complete satisfaction and can still be improved, in particular concerning the cos properties metics, such as touch. In addition, these products do not always have good stability over time with a degradation of the condition of the said product which can be observed.

[0008] Furthermore, cosmetic compositions that contain a significant water content, and in particular shampoos, must contain preservatives to prevent the growth of microorganisms. The microorganisms may be molds such as Aspergillus brasiliensis, yeasts such as Candida albicans or bacteria such as Enterococcus faecalis. Some microorganisms such as Aspergillus brasiliensis are particularly difficult to eliminate. However, at present, said compositions are not always satisfactory, particularly when their pH is close to a neutral pH.

[0009] There is therefore a real need to provide a composition which makes it possible to prevent the growth of microorganisms and to reduce or even eliminate the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort, such as tingling, itching and / or the feeling of heating, while maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp (maintaining and / or restoring the ecoflora of the scalp to a normal level), and preserving good cosmetic properties for the hair and roots, in particular in terms of coating and detangling.

[0010] It has been surprisingly discovered that a particular cosmetic composition makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above. Statement of the invention

[0011] The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising:

[0012] a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one ali chain linear or branched phatic, saturated or unsaturated, containing 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts;

[0013] b) at least one antioxidant agent chosen from aromatic ketones;

[0014] c) at least one hydroxylated compound different from agent a) and agent b);

[0015] d) at least one anionic surfactant; and

[0016] e) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant;

[0017] and in which the weight ratio between the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) and the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is greater than or equal to 1.

[0018] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide good cosmetic properties to keratin fibers, such as good detangling of wet hair as well as good coating to the touch of wet hair.

[0019] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to maintain or even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp. It also has a enhanced activity against Aspergillus brasiliensis, Candida albicans and Enterococcus faecalis.

[0020] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0021] The present invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and the hair.

[0022] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above for maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0023] Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear more clearly on examining the detailed description and the attached drawings in which:

[0024] [Fig-1] is a photo of a comb on strands of hair treated by a com position according to the invention;

[0025] [Fig.2] is a photograph of a comb on strands of hair treated with a comparative composition.

[0026] The expression “at least one” means one or more.

[0027] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0028] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within non-illustrated variants.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. Agent a)

[0030] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts.

[0031] Preferably, the agent a) is chosen from carboxylic acids comprising 3 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular monocarboxylic acids, and very particularly acids comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts.

[0032] Preferably, the acid(s) comprising at least one linear aliphatic chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, and their mixtures, more preferably propionic acid.

[0033] The salts of the acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, more preferably from alkali metal salts, better still sodium or potassium salts, better still sodium salts.

[0034] Advantageously, the agent(s) a) are chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, their salts and their mixtures, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, the magnesium salts, the potassium salts of propionic acid and their mixtures, more preferably from sodium propionate.

[0035] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of the agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of the agent(s) a) chosen from propionic acid and its salts ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of sodium propionate ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Antioxidant agent

[0038] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one antioxidant agent b) chosen from aromatic ketones.

[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “antioxidant agent” means an agent which slows down or prevents the oxidation of other chemical substances upon contact with it.

[0040] Preferably, the antioxidant agent(s) b) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I):

[0041] in which:

[0042] - R is a substituted or unsubstituted aromatic ring, preferably substituted by one or several alkyl, hydroxyl, amino, and / or thiol groups;

[0043] - R' is a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms, optionally substituted.

[0044] More preferably, the antioxidant agent(s) are chosen from those of formula (I) in which:

[0045] - R is an aromatic ring substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, of preferably substituted by a single hydroxyl group;

[0046] - R' is a linear alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl, amino, and / or thiol groups.

[0047] As examples of preferred aromatic ketones according to the invention, mention may be made of hydroxyacetophenones such as p-hydroxyacetophenone (or 4-hydroxy acetophenone), 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, alpha hydroxy-acetophenone and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Preferably, the antioxidant agent is p-hydroxyacetophenone.

[0049] Advantageously, the total content of the antioxidant agent(s) b) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Advantageously, the total content of the antioxidant agent(s) chosen from hydroxyacetophenones ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] Advantageously, the total content of p-hydroxyacetophenone ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxy compound

[0052] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydroxylated compound c) different from the agent a) and the antioxidant agent b) previously described.

[0053] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydroxylated compound” means an organic compound comprising at least one hydroxyl function -OH covalently linked to a carbon atom.

[0054] Advantageously, the hydroxylated compound(s) are C1 to C2o, preferably C2 to C12, and comprise at least one hydroxyl function -OH, in particular from 1 to 8 hydroxyl functions -OH, better from 1 to 5 hydroxyl functions OH, even better 1, 2 or 3 hydroxyl functions OH.

[0055] Preferably, the hydroxylated compound(s) c) are chosen from:

[0056] glycerol ethers, polyols, glycol ethers, and mixtures thereof, these compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0057] preferably alone or as a mixture among:

[0058] glycerol ethers comprising a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, alkyl chain and comprising 1 to 20, better still 2 to 12 carbon atoms, better still 5 to 15 carbon atoms, better still 7 to 13 carbon atoms, among which ethylhexylglycerin and chlorphenesin may be mentioned,

[0059] polyols comprising 1 to 20, better still 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions -OH, among which we can cite ascorbyl glucoside; as well as diols and triols comprising a linear or branched saturated chain, such as pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol,

[0060] phenyl glycol ethers such as phenoxyethanol.

[0061] In particular, hydroxylated compounds which can be used in the present invention include chlorphenesin, ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, phenoxyethanol, ascorbyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Preferably, the hydroxylated compound(s) are chosen from pentylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, glycerin, chlorphenesin and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Preferably, the composition is free of phenoxyethanol.

[0064] It is advantageous to use a mixture of compounds c).

[0065] Advantageously, the total content of the hydroxylated compound(s) c) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Advantageously, the total content of the hydroxylated compound(s) c) chosen from glycerol ethers, polyols, glycol ethers, comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] Advantageously, the total content of the hydroxylated compound(s) c) chosen from chlorphenesin, ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, phenoxyethanol, ascorbyl glucoside and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactant

[0068] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

[0069] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0070] In the present description, an entity is described as being “anionic” when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0071] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants. A mixture of these anionic surfactants may of course be used.

[0072] It is understood in this description that:

[0073] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one car- function carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0074] - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise a carboxylate function; and

[0075] - the anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

[0076] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that can be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0077] They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyl-lactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acylalaninates; acyl-thionates, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkyl ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(aryl C6-C30)ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; and their mixtures;

[0078] the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0079] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0080] It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.

[0081] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds proposed by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.

[0082] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0083] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoyl- glutamates and cocoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium cocoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate;

[0084] - acylalaninates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as cocoyl alaninates, and in particular sodium cocoyl alaninate;

[0085] - acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitoyl- sarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, cocoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate;

[0086] - acyllactylates, in particular Ci2-C28, or even Ci4-C24, such as behenoyl- lactylates and lauroyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate;

[0087] - C6-C24 acylglycinates; or even C12-C20, such as cocoyl and lauroyl glycinates, and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate and sodium lauroyl glycinate;

[0088] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20)ethercar- carboxylates;

[0089] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in par particularly those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0090] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0091] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).

[0092] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0093] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0094] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0095] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0096] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsul- fosuccinates;

[0097] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0098] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C20)acylisethionates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl isethionates, and in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl isethionate;

[0099] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0100] The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0101] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0102] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0103] these compounds may be (poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular (poly)oxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0104] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0105] - alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20,

[0106] - alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising preferably from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0107] - their salts, in particular the salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol, in particular sodium alkyl ether (Ci2-C20) sulfates.

[0108] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0109] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned are mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

[0110] Preferably, salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0111] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:

[0112] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20;

[0113] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, especially C12-C20; preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0114] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsul- fosuccinates;

[0115] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0116] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;

[0117] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20; especially palmitoylsar- cosinates;

[0118] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates

[0119] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)(amido)ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;

[0120] - C6-C24 acylglutamates, in particular C12-C20;

[0121] - C6-C24 acylalaninates, in particular C12-C20;

[0122] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0123] - as well as their salts, in particular their alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts or zinc, ammonium, or amino alcohol;

[0124] - and their mixtures.

[0125] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, of ammonium or of amino alcohol, and their mixtures; more preferably from C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, their salts and their mixtures; even more preferably from sodium C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates and their mixtures, better still from sodium laureth sulfate.

[0126] Advantageously, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] Advantageously, the total content of the C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfate(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant

[0128] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.

[0129] In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0130] Preferably, these surfactants are non-silicone.

[0131] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following respective formulas (3) and (4):

[0132] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (3)

[0133] in which:

[0134] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0135] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0136] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0137] - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and

[0138] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0139] Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)

[0140] in which:

[0141] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0142] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0143] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 - COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0144] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0145] - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

[0146] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra -COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0147] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoampho-dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho-dipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0148] As an example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0149] Compounds of formula (5) can also be used:

[0150] Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (5)

[0151] in which:

[0152] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z” ;

[0153] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hy- radical C1-C4 droxyalkyl;

[0154] - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion from an organic amine;

[0155] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra—COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;

[0156] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0157] Among the compounds of formula (5) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0158] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0159] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines, as well as the compounds of formulae (3), (4) and (5) as defined above.

[0160] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0161] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0162] Even more preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines and their mixtures, better still, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocobetaine.

[0163] Advantageously, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] Advantageously, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] Advantageously, the total content of the alkyl(C8-C20)betaine(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] As indicated previously, the weight ratio between the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) and the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is greater than or equal to 1.

[0167] Advantageously, said ratio is strictly greater than 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, more preferably greater than or equal to 2, even more preferably between 2 and 10, better still between 2 and 8, even better still between 2 and 6.

[0168] Advantageously, the total content of the surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. PH

[0169] Preferably, the pH of the composition according to the invention ranges from 6 to 8, more preferably from 6.5 to 7.5, even more preferably from 6.7 to 7.3.

[0170] Thus, the composition according to the invention comprises water, preferably in a total content ranging from 40 to 95% by weight, better still from 60 to 90% by weight, even better still from 75 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents commonly used. Among the alkalinizing agents, mention may be made, as examples, of ammonia, alkanolamines, hydroxides mineral or organic acids, for example sodium hydroxide. Acidifying agents include, for example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, sulfonic acids. Additives

[0172] The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

[0173] Among the additives that may be used, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, moisturizing agents, UV filters, solubilizers, perfumes, proteins, vitamins, polymers, cationic polysaccharides, fatty substances and their mixtures.

[0174] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0175] Another object of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and the hair.

[0176] Another object of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention to maintain or even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0177] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES

[0178] In the examples below, the compositions have a pH of 7 + / - 0.3. Example 1

[0179] Compositions A1 and A2, as described in Table 1 below, were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material (% MA) unless otherwise stated.

[0180] [Tables 1] Compositions Al (invention) A2 (comparative) Sodium laureth sulfate 8.4 8.4 Cocobetaine 3 3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.12 0.12 Sodium chloride 0.65 0.65 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.15 0.15 Sodium propionate 2 - p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.75 0.75 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5 0.5 Niacinamide 2 2 pH agent qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Weight ratio between the content of anionic surfactants and the content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants 2.8 2.8

[0181] Thus, composition A1 is a composition according to the invention. Composition A2 is a comparative composition. (a) Evaluation of microbiological performance

[0182] The effectiveness of the compositions is evaluated by means of the Challenge test which makes it possible to determine the level of antimicrobial protection of a composition.

[0183] It consists of artificial contamination of the product to be tested by various microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts and molds) and monitoring of the number of viable germs over time. A satisfactorily protected product must allow decontamination of the introduced microorganisms.

[0184] The product is distributed in a pillbox into which a calibrated suspension of microorganisms is introduced, here the mold Aspergillus brasiliensis. A sample is taken to count the microorganisms remaining in the product after 7 days of contact between the product and the germ.

[0185] The dilutions made to carry out the counts are inoculated onto Petri dishes. The kinetics (growth or decrease) for the germ is then expressed as a logarithmic reduction at a given time.

[0186] The microbiological risk is considered acceptable when the logarithmic reduction of the germ considered is greater than or equal to 3 after 7 days of germ / product contact; that is to say that the cosmetic product is protected against microbial proliferation which could present a potential risk for the user.

[0187] Compositions A1 and A2 were subjected to the Challenge test according to the protocol previously described. The results on the microbial strain Aspergillus brasiliensis after 7 days of germ / product contact are given in the following Table 2:

[0188] [Tables2] Compositions Al (invention) A2 (comparative) Logarithmic reduction rate after 7 days of germ (Aspergillus brasiliensis) / product contact >4 0.3

[0189] Thus, the example shows that composition Al exhibits better antimicrobial activity, particularly after 7 days of contact with Aspergillus brasiliensis, than that of comparative composition A2. b) Cosmetic performance

[0190] Compositions A1 and A2 were applied to strands of natural Caucasian hair at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per g of hair. The hair was then kneaded and allowed to foam, and the compositions were then left to stand for 1 minute. The strands were rinsed with warm water for 15 seconds and then wrung out.

[0191] The ease of detangling is then assessed on damp hair.

[0192] Visual observation

[0193] The ease of detangling is assessed by sliding the small teeth of a comb from the top of the strand to the bottom of the strand. When the movement is hindered by a knot, a photo is taken and allows the length of detangled hair to be compared, as can be seen in Figures 1 and 2. It is thus possible to compare the cosmetic effectiveness of the compositions.

[0194] [Fig. 1] is a representation of a comb sliding over a lock treated with composition A1 according to the invention. [Fig.2] is a representation of a comb sliding over a lock treated with comparative composition A2.

[0195] Thus, it was observed in Figures 1 and 2 that the comb sliding on the lock treated with the comparative composition A2 was stopped higher by a knot than the comb sliding on the lock treated with the composition A1 according to the invention. Indeed, it can be seen by comparing Figures 1 and 2 that the comb travels a greater distance along the lock before being stopped by a knot in [Fig.l].

[0196] Thus, the locks of hair treated with the composition according to the invention A1 are detangled more easily than hair strands treated with the comparative composition A2. Example 2

[0197] Compositions B1 and B2, as described in Table 3 below, were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material (% MA) unless otherwise stated.

[0198] [Tables3] Compositions B1 (invention) B2 (comparative) Sodium laureth sulfate 8.4 8.4 Cocobetaine 3 3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.12 0.12 Sodium chloride 0.65 0.65 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.15 0.15 Sodium propionate 1 - p-hydroxyacetophenone 1 1 Glycerin 0.2 0.2 Pentylene glycol 2 2 Levulinic acid (and) sodium levulinate 0.6 0.6 pH agent qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Weight ratio between the content of anionic surfactants and the content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants 2.8 2.8

[0199] Compositions B1 and B2 were subjected to the Challenge test according to the protocol previously described. The results on the microbial strain Aspergillus brasiliensis after 7 days of germ / product contact are given in the following table 4:

[0200] [Tables4] Compositions B1 (invention) B2 (comparative) Logarithmic reduction rate after 7 days of germ contact (Aspergillus bra-siliensis ^ / product 3.3 1

[0201] Thus, the example shows that composition B1 exhibits better antimicrobial activity, particularly after 7 days of contact with Aspergillus brasiliensis, than that of comparative composition B2. Example 3

[0202] Compositions C1 and C2, as described in Table 5 below, were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material (% MA) unless otherwise stated.

[0203] [Tables5] Compositions Cl (invention) C2 (comparative) Sodium laureth sulfate 8.4 8.4 Cocobetaine 3 3 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.15 0.15 Sodium chloride 0.65 0.65 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 Sodium propionate 2 - p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 Pentylene glycol 2 2 Ascorbyl glucoside 3 3 pH agent qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Weight ratio between the content of anionic surfactants and the content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants 2.8 2.8

[0204] Compositions C1 and C2 were applied to strands of natural Caucasian hair at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per g of hair. The hair was then kneaded and allowed to foam, then the compositions were left to stand for 3 minutes. The strands were rinsed with lukewarm water for 15 seconds, then wrung out.

[0205] The coating of the strands is assessed by touch on damp hair.

[0206] Tactile evaluation

[0207] The coating performance, i.e. the presence of a deposit on the fiber, was evaluated by 5 experts. The performance was evaluated in a blind test in which each of the 5 experts assigned a score in the range from 0 (no coating to the touch) to 5 (very good coating to the touch) to each of the hair strands. In other words, the closer the score is to 5, the better the coating performance.

[0208] To assess the coating by touch, the expert grasps the lock of hair and slides his fingers from the root to the tip. The more significant, homogeneous and uneven the deposit, the better the coating.

[0209] The results are collected in Table 6 below:

[0210] [Tableauxô] Composition Cl (invention) C2 (comparative) Expert 1 4 2.5 Expert 2 4 3 Expert 3 4 2.5 Expert 4 4 2 Expert 5 4 3 Average 4 2.6 Standard deviation 0 0.4

[0211] It clearly appears that the locks of hair treated with the composition C1 according to the invention have a more effective coating to the touch on damp hair compared to locks of hair treated with the comparative composition C2. Thus, the locks of hair treated with the composition C1 according to the invention are perceived to the touch as less “raw”, less rough and more treated than the locks of hair treated with the comparative composition C2.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts; b) at least one antioxidant agent chosen from aromatic ketones; c) at least one hydroxylated compound different from agent a) and agent b); d) at least one anionic surfactant; and e) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant; and in which the weight ratio between the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) and the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is greater than or equal to 1.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the agent(s) a) are chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, their salts and their mixtures, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, the magnesium salts, the potassium salts of propionic acid and their mixtures, more preferably from sodium propionate.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of the agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the antioxidant agent(s) b) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I): P ® R^R' in which: - R is a substituted or unsubstituted aromatic ring, preferably substituted by one or more alkyl, hydroxyl, amino, and / or thiol groups, preferentially substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, more preferentially substituted by a single group hydroxyl; - R' is a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, preferably linear, comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl, amino, and / or thiol groups.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the antioxidant agent(s) b) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydroxylated compound(s) c) are C1 to C20, preferably C2 to C12, and comprise at least one hydroxyl -OH function, in particular from 1 to 8 hydroxyl -OH functions, better still from 1 to 5 hydroxyl -OH functions, preferably from glycerol ethers, polyols, glycol ethers, and mixtures thereof, these compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably, alone or as a mixture, from glycerol ethers comprising a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, alkyl chain, and comprising 1 to 20, better still 2 to 12 carbon atoms, better still 5 to 15 carbon atoms, better still 7 to 13 carbon atoms; polyols comprising 1 to 20, better still 2 to 12 carbon atoms, as well as diols and triols comprising a linear or branched saturated chain;phenolic glycol ethers, even more preferably among pentylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, glycerin, chlorphenesin and their mixtures.;

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the hydroxylated compound(s) c) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, C6-C24 alkyl acids )(amido)ethercarboxylic polyoxyalkylenated groups, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, more particularly ethylene oxide, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, of ammonium or of amino alcohol, and their mixtures; more preferably among the C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, their salts and their mixtures; even more preferably among the sodium C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates and their mixtures.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) and the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is strictly greater than 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, more preferably greater than or equal to 2, even more preferably between 2 and 10, better still between 2 and 8, even better still between 2 and 6.

13. Cosmetic treatment process, preferably of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

14. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, for cosmetic treatment, in particular of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp, or scalp, and hair.

15. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, for maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

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