Agent for simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers and process using this agent

Abstract

The present invention relates to an agent for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers as well as a method for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers using this agent.

Description

Title of the invention: Agent for simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers and method using this agent Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to an agent for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers as well as a method for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers using this agent. Background to the invention

[0002] When a person wants to radically change their hair color, especially when they want to achieve a lighter color than their original color, it is often necessary to bleach and then color the hair. There are several methods for doing this.

[0003] The first method consists of using lightening products based on ammonia and hydrogen peroxide. These products may optionally contain colorants, which allows the hair to be lightened and colored simultaneously. However, the lightening performance of these products remains limited, particularly for applications on naturally dark and / or colored hair.

[0004] In order to obtain greater lightening of the hair, the second method consists of using a lightening composition generally in the form of a powdery composition based on peroxygenated salts such as persulfates and alkaline agents which is mixed at the time of use with an aqueous oxidizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide. Mixing the two compositions is therefore not easy. This results not only in a relatively long mixing time but also in difficulties in obtaining a homogeneous mixture or even in difficulties in applying the mixture obtained to the hair. The mixture can in fact be difficult to distribute homogeneously over the entire head of hair, in particular on curly or frizzy hair, which can lead to unwanted non-uniform lightening performances.Furthermore, these treatments based on peroxygen salts are generally accompanied by the appearance of unsightly yellow and / or orange reflections. In order to remedy this problem, the compositions may include direct dyes allowing the hair to be bleached and colored simultaneously in order to obtain a more aesthetic color result.

[0005] However, the range of direct dyes that can be used in these compositions remains limited because only stable direct dyes can be used in such conditions in order to obtain a good build-up of the color, powerful and chromatic colors. In an attempt to remedy this stability problem, it has been considered to carry out the process in two stages: a first stage during which the hair is bleached using the lightening composition then a second stage during which the hair is colored using a composition comprising direct dyes. However, a two-stage process is not satisfactory because in addition to generating numerous manipulations, it has the disadvantage of being relatively long and can lead to a more significant degradation of the quality of the fiber.

[0006] Thus, there is a real need to develop an agent for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers comprising direct dyes, the agent having both good lightening and coloring properties, particularly when applied to hair with dark backgrounds and making it possible in particular to obtain a good build-up of the coloring as well as powerful, natural and chromatic colors or to allow good neutralization of unsightly yellow and / or orange reflections. In addition, such an agent may comprise a wide range of direct dyes making it possible to obtain the shade sought by the user. This agent may be used in a process for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers in a single step. Such an agent must also be more respectful of the quality of the fibers.Furthermore, the agent must have very good usability qualities, in particular by implementing compositions that are easy to mix before use and easy to apply to keratin fibers. Finally, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that can meet these environmental challenges.

[0007] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all or part of these objectives can be achieved by the agent according to the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0008] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to an agent for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers in two or three parts comprising: a) a first composition (A) comprising: - one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate generating systems, and their mixtures, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and their mixtures; - one or more silicates; - one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, their salts, and their mixtures; - less than 5% by weight of persulfates; and - possibly one or more direct dyes; b) a second composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof, the chemical oxidizing agent preferably being hydrogen peroxide; and c) optionally a third composition (C) comprising one or more direct dyes; it being understood that at least one of compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0009] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a composition resulting from the mixing of composition (A) as defined previously with composition (B) as defined previously and optionally with composition (C) as defined previously, it being understood that at least one of compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0010] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to a process for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers comprising: i) a step of mixing composition (A) as defined previously with a composition (B) as defined previously and optionally with a composition (C) as defined previously; and ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i); it being understood that at least one of compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0011] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to a device with at least two or three compartments, for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers, comprising: i) at least one first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined previously; ii) at least one second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined above; and iii) optionally at least one third compartment containing a composition (C) as defined previously; it being understood that at least one of compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0012] According to a fifth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of an agent as defined above for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers.

[0013] According to a sixth aspect, the present invention relates to a composition (A) as defined above, the composition (A) comprising one or more direct dyes. Detailed description of the invention

[0014] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0015] ■ by "keratin fibers" we mean fibers of human or animal origin such as than hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably hair;

[0016] ■ by "(bi)carbonate" we mean a carbonate or a bicarbonate;

[0017] ■ by "chemical oxidizing agent" we mean an oxidizing agent other than oxygen air.

[0018] ■ by "silicate" we mean a salt of a silicic acid.

[0019] ■ by "salt" we mean an addition salt with an organic acid or base or mineral. The addition salts with an acid are chosen in particular from addition salts with acids such as hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, tosylic acid, benzenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid or acetic acid. The addition salts with a base are chosen in particular from addition salts with bases such as the alkalizing agents described below, in particular alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0020] ■ by "direct dye" we mean a natural and / or synthetic dye, including in the form of extract(s), different from oxidation dyes. These are colored compounds that will diffuse superficially on the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or non-ionic.

[0021] The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

[0022] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “includes from ... to ...”, “formed from ... to ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0023] The terms "lightening" and "bleaching" are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.

[0024] Agent for simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers

[0025] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to an agent for simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers in two or three parts as defined above.

[0026] Compositions (A), (B) and (C) are distinct compositions.

[0027] The applicant surprisingly found that the agent according to the present The invention made it possible to obtain a satisfactory level of lightening as well as a better rise in coloration and powerful, natural and chromatic colors. The agent also makes it possible to neutralize any unsightly yellow and / or orange reflections. Thus, the agent according to the invention can be used in a process for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers in a single step.

[0028] Furthermore, the agent according to the invention is more respectful of the quality of the fibers by minimizing their degradation in particular. Finally, the agent has very good qualities of use, in particular by implementing compositions that are easy to mix before use and easy to apply to keratin fibers.

[0029] Preferably, the agent according to the invention is in two parts and comprises: a) a first composition (A) comprising: - one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate generating systems, and their mixtures, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and their mixtures; - one or more silicates; - one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, their salts, and their mixtures; - less than 5% by weight of persulfates; and - one or more direct dyes; and b) a second composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof, the chemical oxidizing agent preferably being hydrogen peroxide.

[0030] Thus, when the agent is in two parts, the direct dye(s) are included in composition (A).

[0031] Alternatively, the agent according to the invention is in three parts and comprises: a) a first composition (A) comprising: - one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate generating systems, and their mixtures, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and their mixtures; - one or more silicates; - one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, their salts, and their mixtures; and - possibly one or more direct dyes; b) a second composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof, the chemical oxidizing agent preferably being hydrogen peroxide; and c) a third composition (C) comprising one or more direct dyes.

[0032] Thus, when the agent is in three parts, composition (C) comprises one or more direct dyes and composition (A) may also comprise one or more direct dyes. Preferably, when the agent is in three parts, composition (A) does not comprise direct dyes. Composition (A)

[0033] The composition (A) of the agent comprises: - one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate generating systems, and their mixtures, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and their mixtures; - one or more silicates; - one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, their salts, and their mixtures; - less than 5% by weight of persulfates; and - possibly one or more direct dyes. C compounds

[0034] The composition (A) according to the invention comprises one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds C chosen from carbonates, bicarbonates and their mixtures.

[0036] More preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds C chosen from ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and their mixtures.

[0037] Carbonates and / or carbonate-generating systems

[0038] The compound(s) C present in composition (A) may be chosen from carbonates, carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates.

[0039] By "carbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates carbonate in situ such as for example carbon dioxide in water or percarbonate in water.

[0040] When present in composition (A), the carbonates are preferably chosen from: - alkali metal carbonates; - alkaline earth metal carbonates; - lanthanide carbonates; - transition metal carbonates; - bismuth carbonate; - cadmium carbonate; - thallium carbonate; - zinc carbonate; - compounds of formula (N+R'R2R3R4)2, CO32 in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; - guanidine carbonate; - their mixtures.

[0041] More preferably, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, cesium carbonate, lithium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, barium carbonate, strontium carbonate, cerium carbonate, lanthanum carbonate, yttrium carbonate, copper (II) carbonate, manganese carbonate, nickel carbonate, silver carbonate, zirconium carbonate, bismuth carbonate, cadmium carbonate, thallium carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate, tetraethylammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Even more preferably, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, cesium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, cerium carbonate, manganese carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Most preferably, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, ammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0044] In a particularly preferred manner, the carbonate included in composition (A) is ammonium carbonate.

[0045] Bicarbonates and / or bicarbonate-generating systems

[0046] The compound(s) C present in composition (A) are preferably chosen from bicarbonates, bicarbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from bicarbonates.

[0047] By "bicarbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates bicarbonate in situ such as for example carbon dioxide in water or in buffering a carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.

[0048] When they are present in composition (A), the bicarbonates are preferably chosen from: - alkali metal bicarbonates; - alkaline earth metal bicarbonates; - compounds of formula N+R'R2R3R4, HCO3 in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; - aminoguanidine bicarbonate; - their mixtures.

[0049] More preferably, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, lithium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, choline bicarbonate, triethylammonium bicarbonate, aminoguanidine bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Even more preferably, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Most preferably, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] In a particularly preferred manner, the bicarbonate included in composition (A) is ammonium bicarbonate.

[0053] The bicarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, or from Badoit water.

[0054] Preferably, the compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, most preferably ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0055] When they are present in the composition (A), the bicarbonate(s) and / or the bicarbonate-generating system(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, most preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, and better still ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0056] When they are present in composition (A), the bicarbonate(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 30% at 65% by weight, most preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, and better still ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0057] When present in composition (A), the ammonium bicarbonate is preferably present in a total content ranging from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, most preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, and better still ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A). Silicates

[0058] The composition (A) according to the invention further comprises one or more silicates.

[0059] The silicate(s) are preferably water-soluble.

[0060] By "water-soluble silicate" is meant a silicate which has a solubility in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight.

[0061] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] More preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Even more preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates.

[0064] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from the compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate (CAS: [1344-09-8]) and / or Sodium Metasilicate (CAS: [6834-92-0]).

[0065] The silicate(s) are present in composition (A) preferably in a total content of at least 15% by weight, more preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, most preferably ranging from 30% to 50% by weight, and better still from 35 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0066] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more silicates chosen from the compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate (CAS: [1344-09-8]) and / or Sodium Metasilicate (CAS: [6834-92-0]), preferably in a total content of at least 15% by weight, more preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, most preferably ranging from 30% to 50% by weight, and better still ranging from 35 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). D Compounds

[0067] Composition (A) according to the invention further comprises one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, their salts, and their mixtures.

[0068] By "fatty acid" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.

[0069] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition (A) according to the invention comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0070] Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular saturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0071] More preferably, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds of structure RC(O)OH in which R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 5 to 39 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, more preferably from 9 to 29 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, most preferably from 13 to 21 carbon atoms.

[0072] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in composition (A) are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0073] The fatty acid salts are preferably chosen from addition salts with an organic or mineral base, more preferably chosen from addition salts with a mineral base. The mineral base is preferably chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The fatty acids may be chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids.

[0075] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0076] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are notably chosen among myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] More preferably, the solid fatty acid is stearic acid.

[0079] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0080] The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention may be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.

[0081] Preferably, the compound(s) D are chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, preferably from solid fatty acids, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, more preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, even more preferably from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, most preferably from stearic acid, its salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, preferably among stearic acid, sodium stearate, magnesium stearate,and mixtures thereof, and even better among sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] The compound(s) D are present in the composition (A), preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0083] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0084] More preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0085] Even more preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from stearic acid, sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0086] And better, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and their mixtures, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Fatty substances different from D compounds

[0087] The composition (A) according to the invention may further comprise one or more fatty substances different from the compounds D.

[0088] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty substances different from the compounds D.

[0089] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane.

[0090] Advantageously, the fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0091] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.

[0092] The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term "silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.

[0093] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa). Solid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0094] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0095] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) present in composition (A) are chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] More preferably, the fatty substance(s) present in composition (A) are chosen from liquid fatty substances.

[0097] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, liquid fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms such as paraffin or vaseline oils, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers such as dicaprylic ether, and mixtures thereof,more preferably among liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate.

[0098] It is recalled that the alcohols, esters, acids, fatty ethers more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0099] As regards the liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen among paraffin or vaseline oils (INCI name ore oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

[0101] As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

[0102] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] As regards the fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PCI” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; no-nafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by 3M Company.

[0104] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0105] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned are octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than triglycerides, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0107] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0108] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0111] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate;polyethylene glycol distearates, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, and mixtures thereof.;

[0112] Composition (A) may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0113] Suitable sugars that may be mentioned include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

[0114] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0115] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0116] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.

[0117] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0119] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and polyol will be used. As an example of a liquid ester of monoacid and polyol, mention may be made of propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene dicaprate.

[0120] The liquid fatty ethers which can be used in composition (A) according to the present invention can be chosen from synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms. As an example of liquid fatty ethers which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of dicaprylic ether.

[0121] The solid fatty bodies according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

[0122] The solid fatty body(ies) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0124] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0125] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); ara-chidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0126] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0127] The solid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0128] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0129] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.

[0130] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0132] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0133] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0134] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0135] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0136] Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0137] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1) tetrastearate. propane), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0138] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0139] As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0140] It is also possible to use microwaxes in composition (A);we can cite in particular camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.;

[0141] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0142] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which may be used in composition (A), are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

[0143] The ceramides or their analogues which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which :

[0144] - RI denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from acids C14-C30 fatty acid, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0145] - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a group (galactosyl)m or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0146] - R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in position alpha, this group being able to be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

[0147] The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.

[0148] Preferably, ceramides are used for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a ga-lactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0149] It is also possible to use compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0150] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)cetyl acid amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

[0151] The solid fatty bodies are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0152] When they are present in the composition (A), the fatty substance(s) other than the compounds D are present in the composition (A) preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0153] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances other than the compounds D chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0154] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances other than the compounds D chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms such as paraffin or vaseline oils, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers such as dicaprylic ether, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Associative polymers

[0155] The composition (A) according to the invention may further comprise one or more associative polymers.

[0156] It is recalled that associative polymers are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0157] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0158] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0159] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may originate from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0160] The associative polymers can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0161] Among the anionic associative polymers, we can cite:

[0162] - (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one ether unit of fatty chain allyl, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly still by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

[0163] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide are particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0164] Among the latter, particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular those sold by the company CIBA under the names SALCARE SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).

[0165] - (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of carboxylic acid type olefinically unsaturated, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester type.

[0166] Alkyl esters (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful in the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0167] Anionic polymers of this type are for example described and prepared, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

[0168] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above, will be used more particularly.

[0169] Among the above polymers, the products sold by the company GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, the product sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the trade name CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER® (INCI Name: ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER) the product sold by the company SEPC under the name COATEX SX®, and even more preferably CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER®.

[0170] Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer marketed under the name Acrylidone LM by the ISP Company.

[0171] - (c) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 a-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.

[0172] - (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:

[0173] i) about 20 to 70% by weight of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A],

[0174] ii) about 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturated monomer different from [A],

[0175] iii) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,

[0176] such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer (40EO) in 25% aqueous dispersion.

[0177] - (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic saturation and an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid ester of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0178] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation and C1-C4 alcohol.

[0179] As an example of this type of compound, mention may be made of ACULYN 22® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, or even ACULYN 28® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER® sold by Lubrizol.

[0180] - (f) Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one unsaturated monomer ethylenic with a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.

[0181] The ethylenically unsaturated monomers with a sulfonic group are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(Cl-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido-(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

[0182] More preferably, (meth)acrylamido(Cl-C22) alkylsulfonic acids will be used, such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

[0183] More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or totally neutralized forms will be used.

[0184] The polymers of this family may in particular be chosen from random amphiphilic polymers of AMPS modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen for example from (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives substituted in [3] or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0185] The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation.

[0186] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain such as (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives substituted in [3] or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0187] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, patent US 5089578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

[0188] - “Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336.” ;

[0189] - “Miscelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10 (2000), 3694-3704”;

[0190] - “Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to an polyelectrolyte: known effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000) 5324-5332”;

[0191] - “Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221 “.

[0192] Among these polymers, we can cite:

[0193] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A750 899;

[0194] - terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C18)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in US patent 5089578.

[0195] Mention may also be made of copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate as well as non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.

[0196] Among the anionic associative polymers according to the invention, the polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acid type (family b)), and the copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol (family e)) are preferred.

[0197] Among the cationic associative polymers we can cite:

[0198] (a) cationic associative polyurethanes;

[0199] (b) the compound marketed by the company NOVEON under the name AQUA CC and which corresponds to the INCI name POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER.

[0200] POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: a di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl)methacrylate, one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide unit), a polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol 30 / 5 allyl ether, a hydroxy(C2-C6) alkyl methacrylate, and an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0201] (c) quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, al-kylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals carried by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include the products QUATRISOFT LM 200®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by AQUALON, the products CRODACEL QM®, CRODACEL QL® (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS® (C18 alkyl) sold by CRODA and the product SOFTCAT SL 100® sold by AQUALON.

[0202] (d) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.

[0203] Such polymers are for example described in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0204] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, use is made in particular of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers.

[0205] The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. More particularly still, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol% of monomer comprising a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 mol% and more particularly still 1.5 to 6 mol%, relative to the total number of moles of monomers, are preferred.

[0206] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in patent application WO 9844012.

[0207] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride terpolymers are preferred. / stearyl methacrylate.

[0208] The non-ionic associative polymers which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0209] (a) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fat, of which we can cite as examples:

[0210] - ANTARON V216® or GANEX V216® products (vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / hexadecene) sold by the company ISP

[0211] - ANTARON V220® or GANEX V220® products (vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / eicosene) sold by the company ISP

[0212] (b) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208®. Or the copolymer with the INCI name “acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer” such as the product Novethix L-10 polymer from Lubrizol.

[0213] (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and monomers hydrophobic comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0214] (d) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both sequences hydrophilic, most often polyoxyethylenated in nature, and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

[0215] (e) polymers with an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one chain fatty, such as the PURE THIX® compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

[0216] (f) celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least less than one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or their mixtures where the alkyl groups are C8-22 and in particular:

[0217] * non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as NATROSOL products PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (Cl6 alkyl) sold by the company AQUALON

[0218] * non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the product AMERCELL HM-1500 sold by the company AMERCHOL;

[0219] * non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL;

[0220] (g) associative guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by a Cl4 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by a C14 alkyl chain) C20) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0221] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendant chains to be provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0222] Polyether polyurethanes can be multi-block, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multi-block copolymer for example). These same polymers can also be in graft or star form.

[0223] Non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Non-ionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0224] By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

[0225] As examples of non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers which can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rhéolate 205® with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or even Rhéolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®.

[0226] Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® with a Cl2-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® with a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO.

[0227] ROHM & HAAS's DW 1206B® product with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0228] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J offered by the company ROHM & HAAS.

[0229] The polyether polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993).

[0230] More particularly still, it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0231] Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0232] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.

[0233] More preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers.

[0234] Even more preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from polymers comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of (C10-C30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type, the copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0235] When they are present in the composition (A), the associative polymer(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0236] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more associative polymers chosen from anionic associative polymers, preferably from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Non-associative polysaccharides

[0237] The composition (A) according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-associative polysaccharides, which are therefore different from the associative polymers above.

[0238] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention further comprises one or several non-associative polysaccharides.

[0239] In the present invention, the term "polysaccharide" means a polymer consisting of sugar units. The term "sugar unit" means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms. The sugar units may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0240] The sugar units which may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0241] In particular, non-associative polysaccharides may include the following polymers, alone or as a mixture: (a) exudates from trees or shrubs including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae including: - agar (polymer made from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); (c) gums from seeds or tubers of which: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); (d) microbial gums including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); (e) polymers extracted from plants including: - celluloses (glucose polymers); - starches (glucose polymers) and - inulin.

[0242] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, mention may be made in particular of a heat treatment. As chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers which may be, in particular, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0243] In particular, guar gums, carob gums, starches and celluloses can be modified / treated.

[0244] The guar gums that can be used according to the invention can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups. The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0245] Such guar gums, optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0246] The starches that can be used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, oat, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, tapioca starches. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potatoes.

[0247] Preferably, starch phosphates will be used, in particular distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product proposed under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

[0248] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, these am- Photeryric acid groups comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0249] The non-associative polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention can be cellulose polymers.

[0250] According to the invention, the term "cellulosic" polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0251] Cellulosic polymers are also called celluloses.

[0252] Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in a microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0253] Among these cellulose polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0254] Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates or phosphates of cellulose, etc.), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates of cellulose) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyratesulfates and acetatepropionatesulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, there may be mentioned hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0255] Among the cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by ASHLAND) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0256] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (e.g. Blanose 7M from AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

[0257] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium salt, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium salt, dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0258] Preferably, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from celluloses, guar gums, gellan gums, starches, and mixtures thereof, preferably from celluloses, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0259] More preferably, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, cellulose ether esters, and mixtures thereof, preferably from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0260] Even more preferably, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from gellan gums, (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably from gellan gums, hydroxyethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.

[0261] When they are present in the composition (A), the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0262] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharides chosen from gellan gums, cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0263] More preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharides chosen from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Surfactants

[0264] The composition (A) according to the present invention may further comprise one or more surfactants different from the compounds D.

[0265] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention further comprises one or more surfactants different from the compounds D.

[0266] These may preferably be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0267] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO.

[0268] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in composition (A) according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and acids poly-glycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-ga-lactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids; and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds;the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.;

[0269] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

[0270] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0271] As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.

[0272] Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0273] The anionic surfactants possibly present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

[0274] As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.

[0275] In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 EO) marketed, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

[0276] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of sulfated surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferably alkyl sulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.

[0277] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in composition (A) according to the invention are preferably non-silicone and may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0278] Mention may be made in particular of alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0279] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of: composed of the following respective structures (III) and (IV):

[0280] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (III) formula (III), in which: - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent; [0281 ] Ra' -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) formula (IV), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 -COOZ', or 'n hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra' represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0282] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium ca-prylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodi-propionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodi-propionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0283] As an example, we can cite the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0284] Compounds of formula (V) can also be used: Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (V) formula (V), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra” represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra”-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0285] Among the compounds of formula (V) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0286] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0287] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, advantageously used are alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0288] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0289] The non-ionic surfactant(s) which can be used in composition (A) of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0290] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, the following compounds may be mentioned, alone or in mixture: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose; - esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan; - esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol; - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters; - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - derivatives of α^-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and α^-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine; - amine oxides.

[0291] They are chosen, in particular, from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.

[0292] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0293] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan can be chosen from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquii-sostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

[0294] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably chosen from ester(s) of C8-C30 fatty acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 oxide units. of ethylene.

[0295] Preferably, the ester(s) of C8-C30 fatty acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from esters of C12-C18 fatty acids and of oxyethylenated sorbitan, in particular from esters of lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan.

[0296] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), oxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), oxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65), oxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-85).

[0297] The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids and glycerol, esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and oxyethylenated sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0298] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids and glycerol.

[0299] The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in composition (A) according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0300] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

[0301] As quaternary ammonium salts, we can notably cite, for example:

[0302] - those corresponding to the following general formula (VI): in which the groups R8 to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, alkyl(C1-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(C1-C22)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl (C1-C30), X' is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C1-C4)sulfates, alkyl(C1-C4)- or alkyl(C1-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI), preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN. DYK.

[0303] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of following formula (VII): * (VII) in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a Cr-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a Cr-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0304] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of the following formula (VIII): 2X" (VIII)

[0305] in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75). - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of the following formula (IX): --Rg§ (IX) C—(O—Cr —hF——O) y~~ in which: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the -C(O)R26 group, the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the -C(O)R28 group, the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; rl and tl, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29. The alkyl groups R22 can be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfate, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ester-functional ammonium may be used. The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate. More particularly, in composition (A) according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, the methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R28, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the groups C13-C17 hydrocarbons, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably among the C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples of compounds of formula (XIII) that may be mentioned are salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. Composition (A) according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, available from KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131, can also be used. Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0306] Preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0307] More preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0308] Even more preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of glycerol such as glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0309] When the composition (A) comprises one or more surfactants, the total content of surfactants included in the composition (A) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, most preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0310] When the composition (A) comprises one or more non-ionic and / or anionic surfactants, the total content of non-ionic and / or anionic surfactants in the composition (A) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, most preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Sequestering agents

[0311] The composition (A) according to the invention may further comprise one or more sequestering (or chelating) agents.

[0312] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention further comprises one or more sequestering agents.

[0313] The definition of a "sequestering agent" (or "chelating agent") is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a cycle including the metal ion).

[0314] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron donor atoms which allow the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

[0315] In the context of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, po- polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.

[0316] The salts are in particular salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.

[0317] As an example of a carboxylic acid-based sequestrant, the following compounds may be mentioned: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine di-succinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), gly-cinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilo-triacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133),iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) chelators (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel. ,

[0318] Examples of mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid)., and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate

[0319] As examples of polyphosphoric acid-based chelators, the following compounds may be mentioned: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexa-metaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

[0320] According to one embodiment, the sequestering agent(s) useful according to the invention are phosphorus-containing sequestering agents, i.e. sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

[0321] The phosphorus sequestering agent(s) used in composition (A) according to the invention are preferably chosen from: - inorganic phosphorus derivatives preferably chosen from phosphates and pyrophosphates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, preferably of alkali metals such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, preferably of alkali metals, such as sodium hexameta-phosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimeta-phosphate; optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof; - organic phosphorus derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and mixtures thereof.

[0322] Preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms covalently linked together by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.

[0323] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-containing derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also called tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

[0324] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-containing derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) are chosen from etidronic acid (also called 1-hydroxyethane 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or its alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

[0325] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal salts, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0326] In a particularly preferred manner, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate and a mixture of these compounds.

[0327] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts. salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.

[0328] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are more preferably chosen from diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.

[0329] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are even more preferably chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.

[0330] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts.

[0331] When the composition (A) comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Additional alkalizing agents

[0332] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more additional alkalizing agents other than (bi)carbonates and silicates as defined previously.

[0333] The additional alkalizing agent(s) may be inorganic or organic. They may be chosen from i) ammonia, ii) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, iii) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, iv) inorganic or organic hydroxides, v) amino acids, preferably basic ones, such as arginine, lysine, omithine, citruline and histidine, and vi) compounds of the following formula (II): in which: - W is a divalent (Ci-C8)alkylene group, preferably propylene, optionally substituted in particular by a hydroxy group or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; - Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or C1-C4 (poly)hydroxyalkyl radical; vii) and their mixtures.

[0334] The mineral or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from i) alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, ii) alkaline earth metal hydroxides, iii) transition metal hydroxides, such as hydroxides of metals of groups III, IV, V and VI, iv) hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides.

[0335] When they are present in the composition (A), the additional alkalizing agent(s) preferably represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.005% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0336] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) according to the invention does not comprise an additional alkalizing agent chosen from ammonia and / or alkanolamines. Persulfates

[0337] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises a total persulfate content of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0338] More preferably, composition (A) is free of persulfates. Direct dyes

[0339] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more direct dyes. The direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.

[0340] The synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used in direct coloring, and among which we can cite all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, xanthenic, quinonic, and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine direct dyes and their mixtures.

[0341] Among the direct nitrobenzene dyes, we can cite: l,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, l-amino-2 nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; l-amino-2 nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; lP-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; l,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylammo-5-nitrobenzene; l-Methoxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-P,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[Vhydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; lP-ammoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-(P-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-[>-hydroxycthylamino-2-nitrobcnzcnc; l-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

[0342] Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0343] Among the direct hydrazono dyes, we can cite: Basic Yellow 87.

[0344] Among the aryl nitrated direct dyes, we can cite: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N' -bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-phenylenediamine.

[0345] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50; tetrabromophenol blue.

[0346] Among the xanthene dyes, we can cite: Acid Red 92; Acid Red 52

[0347] Among the quinone direct dyes, we can cite: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-([3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0348] Among the direct azine dyes, we can cite: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0349] Among the direct indoamine dyes, we can cite: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

[0350] The natural direct dyes are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.

[0351] Among the orthodiphenols useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), Isoquercetin, Pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, man-giferin, butein, Maritimetin, Sulfuretin, Robtein, betanidine, Pericampylinone A., Theaflavin, Proanthocyanidin A2, Proanthocyanidin B2, Proanthocyanidin Cl, Procyanidins DP 4-8, Tannic acid, Purpurogallin, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them.

[0352] The direct dye(s) may be present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A). Organic solvents

[0353] The composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.

[0354] As organic solvent, examples that may be mentioned are linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, mono- ethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0355] When composition (A) comprises one or more organic solvents, the total content of the organic solvent(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0356] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention is anhydrous. By "anhydrous composition" is meant a composition which comprises less than 2% by weight of water, better still less than 1% by weight of water, even better still less than 0.75% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0357] In particular, composition (A) does not include water added during its preparation, any water possibly present being able to be provided by the raw materials used during its preparation. Carboxylic acids

[0358] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more carboxylic acids of the following formula (I) or one or more of their salts: rqiph fl) HO' | 'O .jn in which: - U represents a monovalent group when n is 0 or polyvalent when n is greater than or equal to 1, hydrocarbon comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or optionally substituted in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably U represents a monovalent (Ci-C6)alkyl or polyvalent (Ci-C6)alkylene group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and / or amino groups; - n represents an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive, preferably n is between 0 and 5, such as between 0 and 2.

[0359] The carboxylic acids of formula (I) useful according to the invention are preferably chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids.

[0360] The carboxylic acids of formula (I) are preferably chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, and their mixtures, more preferably from citric acid or one of its salts.

[0361] The salts of the carboxylic acids of formula (I) may be salts of organic or mineral bases or of alkalizing agents as defined above.

[0362] When present in composition (A), the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are present in composition (A) preferably in a total content by weight ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A). Amino acids

[0363] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more amino acids of formula (IJ and / or one or more of their salts: COOH H — C — N(H) P R (M Formula (IJ in which: ■ p is an integer equal to 1 or 2; ■ when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; ■ when p = 2, R represents: - a hydrogen atom; or - a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, interrupted by at least one heteroatom or group chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2. Amino acids of formula (IJ) may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0364] As examples according to the present invention of amino acids of formula (IJ in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0365] Preferably, the amino acid(s) of formula (IJ) included in composition (A) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0366] More preferably, the amino acid(s) of formula (IJ) included in composition (A) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine and their mixtures.

[0367] Even more preferably, the amino acid included in composition (A) is glycine.

[0368] When present in composition (A), the amino acid(s) of formula (L) are present in composition (A) preferably in a total content by weight ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A). Additives

[0369] The composition (A) according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of polymers, different from associative polymers and non-associative polysaccharides, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidant agents, perfumes, preservatives.

[0370] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition (A) according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0371] The above additives may generally be present in an amount for each of them ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0372] Preferably, composition (A) does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof. Composition (B)

[0373] Composition (B) of the agent comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0374] The hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygen salts can be chosen from urea peroxide, polymeric complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide, oxidases and mixtures thereof.

[0375] As an example of polymer complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide, mention may be made of polyvinylpyrrolidone / H2O2, in particular in powder form, and the other polymer complexes described in US 5,008,093; US 3,376,110 and US 5,183,901.

[0376] Oxidases can produce hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate, such as glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or acid uric acid with uricase.

[0377] Preferably, the composition (B) according to the invention comprises hydrogen peroxide as chemical oxidizing agent.

[0378] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) are present in composition (B) preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0379] When composition (B) comprises hydrogen peroxide, the hydrogen peroxide is preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0380] Composition (B) is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water.

[0381] It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when they are present, from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0382] Composition (B) also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

[0383] Composition (B) preferably comprises one or more fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

[0384] Composition (B) may also comprise surfactants and thickening polymers.

[0385] Usually, the pH of composition (B), when it is aqueous, is less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferentially between 1.5 and 4.5. Composition (C)

[0386] Composition (C) of the agent comprises one or more direct dyes. The direct dyes may be chosen from those listed above.

[0387] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises the direct dye(s) in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0388] Composition (C) is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water.

[0389] Composition (C) may also comprise one or more additives which may be chosen from those listed above. Ready-to-use composition

[0390] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a composition resulting from the mixing of composition (A) as defined previously with composition (B) as defined previously and optionally with composition (C) as defined previously, it being understood that at least one of compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0391] This is a ready-to-use composition that can be applied to keratin fibers.

[0392] Thus, when the agent is in two parts and comprises a composition (A) as defined previously and a composition (B) as defined previously, the ready-to-use composition is obtained by mixing the composition (A) as defined previously with the composition (B) as defined previously, the composition (A) comprising one or more direct dyes.

[0393] When the agent is in three parts and comprises a composition (A) as defined above, a composition (B) as defined above and a composition (C) as defined above, the ready-to-use composition is obtained by mixing the composition (A) as defined above with the composition (B) as defined above and with the composition (C) as defined above, the direct dye(s) being included in the composition (A) and / or in the composition (C). Preferably, according to this latter embodiment, the direct dye(s) are included in the composition (C) and the composition (A) does not comprise direct dyes.

[0394] The pH of the ready-to-use composition (A') preferably ranges from 8 to 13, more preferably from 9 to 12.

[0395] Process for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers

[0396] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to a method of deco simultaneous coloring and coloring of keratin fibers including: i) a step of mixing composition (A) as defined previously with a composition (B) as defined previously and optionally with a composition (C) as defined previously; and ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i); it being understood that at least one of compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0397] The composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry. The mixing step i) is preferably carried out at the time of use, i.e. just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the keratin fibers.

[0398] When the agent is in two parts, the process for simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers comprising: i) a step of mixing composition (A) as defined previously with a composition (B) as defined previously; and ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i); it being understood that composition (A) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0399] Preferably, according to this latter embodiment, the compositions (A) and (B) are mixed in a weight ratio A / B ranging from 0.1 to 2, preferably ranging from 0.3 to 1.5, more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 1.

[0400] When the agent is in three parts, the process of simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers comprises: i) a step of mixing composition (A) as defined previously with a composition (B) as defined previously and with a composition (C) as defined previously; and ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i); it being understood that at least one of compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes. Preferably, according to this latter embodiment, composition (C) comprises one or more direct dyes and composition (A) does not comprise direct dyes. Kit

[0401] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to a device with at least two or three compartments, for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers, comprising: i) at least one first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined previously; ii) at least one second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined above; and iii) optionally at least one third compartment containing a composition (C) as defined above; it being understood that at least one of compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

[0402] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by appropriate application means, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.

[0403] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913. Use

[0404] According to a fifth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of an agent as defined above for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers. Composition (A)

[0405] According to a sixth aspect, the present invention relates to a composition (A) as defined above, the composition (A) comprising one or more direct dyes. Examples

[0406] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0407] In the following examples, unless otherwise indicated, all quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0408] The following compositions A1 and A2 were prepared. In the tables which follow the ingredients are indicated by INCI name:

[0409] [Tables 1] INGREDIENTS Al (Comparative) A2 (Invention) SODIUM SILICATE 39 39 BASIC RED 51 1.73 1.73 GLYCERYL STEARATE 1 1 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE (47.5% aqueous solution by weight marketed by Nouryon under the reference Dissolvine GL-47-S) 1 (0.475 MA) 1 (0.475 MA) HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE 1.4 1.4 MAGNESIUM STEARATE - 3.6 AMMONIUM BI CARBONATE 49 49 PROPYLENE GLYCOL DL CAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE 3 3 INERT FILLER QS 100 QS 100

[0410] MA: Active Matter Application protocol

[0411] At the time of use, compositions A1 and A2 were respectively mixed with the 30 volume H2O2 Blond Studio Oil-developer oxidant from L'Oréal Professionnel (Composition “O”) according to the weight ratio 1:2.

[0412] Composition A2 according to the invention mixes very quickly with the oxidizing composition O to obtain a mixture A2+O in the form of a homogeneous cream.

[0413] Composition Al mixes with difficulty with oxidizing composition O and results in a lumpy, non-homogeneous powder.

[0414] Each of the mixtures was then applied to strands of natural brown hair (tone height 4) at a rate of 5 g of mixture / g of hair.

[0415] The A2+O mixture is easier to apply than the Al+O mixture. After 50 minutes of resting on a hot plate at 27°C, the strands are washed with Garnier Ultra Doux Camomille shampoo, rinsed, then dried in an oven at 60°C.

[0416] Colorimetric measurements were then carried out with a Minolta CM3600D spectrophotometer illuminating D65, angle 10°, specular component included, in the CIE Lab system.

[0417] In the system, Lab, L* represents lightness, a* represents the red / green axis and b* the axis

[0418] yellow / blue. The lower the value of L*, the darker, i.e. more powerful, the coloration obtained. Results

[0419] [Tables2] L* Al+O (Comparative) 28.5 A2+O (Invention) 25.9

[0420] The A2+O mixture according to the invention leads to a lower L* value than that obtained with the comparative Al+O mixture. The color obtained is more powerful.

Claims

Claims

1. Agent for simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers in two or three parts comprising: a) a first composition (A) comprising: - one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and mixtures thereof; - one or more silicates; - one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof; - less than 5% by weight of persulfates; and - optionally one or more direct dyes; b) a second composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof, the chemical oxidizing agent preferably being hydrogen peroxide; and c) optionally a third composition (C) comprising one or more direct dyes;it being understood that at least one of compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.;

2. Agent according to the preceding claim, in which the compound(s) C are chosen from bicarbonates, bicarbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from bicarbonates.

3. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the bicarbonates are chosen from: - alkali metal bicarbonates; - alkaline earth metal bicarbonates; - compounds of formula N+R'R2R3R4, HCO3 in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; - aminoguanidine bicarbonate; - mixtures thereof; preferably from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, lithium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, bicarbonate ammonium bicarbonate, choline bicarbonate, triethylammonium bicarbonate, aminoguanidine bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably among sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably among sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof, most preferably the bicarbonate is ammonium bicarbonate.

4. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, most preferably ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

5. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium silicates, even more preferably from compounds having the INCI Sodium Silicate and / or Sodium Metasilicate.

6. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicate(s) are present in composition (A) in a total content of at least 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, more preferably ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 30% to 50% by weight, most preferably ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

7. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty acids are chosen from compounds of structure RC(O)OH in which R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 5 to 39 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, more preferably from 9 to 29 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 11 to 23 carbon atoms

8.

9.

10. of carbon, most preferably 13 to 21 carbon atoms. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) D are chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, preferably from solid fatty acids, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, more preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, even more preferably from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, most preferably from stearic acid,its salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, and better among stearic acid, sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and their mixtures, and even better among sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and their mixtures., Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) D are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (A) further comprises one or more fatty substances other than compounds D, the fatty substance(s) other than compounds D being preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from liquid fatty substances, even more preferably from liquid hydrocarbons C6 to C16, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, liquid fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof, most preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms such as paraffin or vaseline oils,liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides such as propylene dicaprylate, glycol or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers such as dicaprylic ether, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably among liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate.

11. Agent according to the preceding claim, in which the fatty substance(s) other than the compounds D are present in the composition (A) in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

12. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (A) further comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharides, preferably chosen from the following polymers, alone or as a mixture, these polymers being able to be modified physically or chemically: (a) exudates from trees or shrubs including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae including: - agar (polymer made from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); (c) gums from seeds or tubers of which: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose) 9 - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); (d) microbial gums including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (polymer of glucose); e) polymers extracted from plants including: - celluloses (polymers of glucose); - starches (polymers of glucose) and - inulin; more preferably among celluloses, guar gums, gellan gums, starches, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably among celluloses, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof, most preferably among gellan gums, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, cellulose ether esters, and mixtures thereof, and better still among gellan gums, cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof, and even better still among gellan gums, (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses;(poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably from gellan gums, hydroxyethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.;

13. Agent according to the preceding claim, in which the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

14. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (A) further comprises one or more surfactants different from the compounds D, the surfactant(s) different from the compounds D being chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 oxide groups. of ethylene, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably among alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol such as glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

15. Agent according to the preceding claim, in which the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

16. Agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (A) comprises a total persulfate content of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A), and better still the composition (A) is free of persulfates.

17. An agent according to any preceding claim, wherein composition (A) does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents selected from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide-generating systems other than peroxygenated salts, and mixtures thereof.

18. Composition resulting from the mixing of composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17 with composition (B) as defined in claim 1 and optionally with composition (C) as defined in claim 1, it being understood that at least one of compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

19. Process for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers comprising: i) a step of mixing the composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17 with a composition (B) as defined in claim 1 and optionally with a composition (C) as defined in claim 1; and ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i); it being understood that at least one of compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

20. Device with at least two or three compartments, for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers, comprising: i) at least one first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17; ii) at least one second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined in claim 1; and iii) optionally at least one third compartment containing a composition (C) as defined in claim 1; it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (C) comprises one or more direct dyes.

21. Use of an agent as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17 for the simultaneous bleaching and coloring of keratin fibers.

22. Composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17, the composition (A) comprising one or more direct dyes.