Composition comprising at least one particular agent, at least one antioxidant agent, at least one particular compound, and at least one pyridine derivative
A composition targeting Malassezia yeasts with a combination of aliphatic acids, antioxidants, and pyridine derivatives effectively treats dandruff while maintaining the skin microbiome balance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023014971
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-22
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing antifungal agents for treating dandruff caused by Malassezia yeasts are not entirely satisfactory in terms of efficacy and can disrupt the physiological equilibrium of the skin microbiome.
A composition comprising at least one aliphatic acid or its salt, an antioxidant agent, a compound of formula (I), and a pyridine derivative, which selectively targets Malassezia yeasts while maintaining the balance of the skin microbiome.
The composition effectively prevents and treats dandruff by reducing the number of dandruff flakes and desquamative disorders caused by Malassezia yeasts without disrupting the skin microbiome.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least one particular agent, at least one antioxidant agent, at least one particular compound, and at least one pyridine derivative
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one particular agent, as defined below, at least one antioxidant agent, at least one compound of formula (I), and at least one pyridine derivative and / or their solvate(s) such as hydrates.
[0002] The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp (or scalp) and hair, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least the composition as defined above.
[0003] The present invention also relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp (or scalp) and hair, preferably for preventing and / or treating dandruff of the scalp, in particular that caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia. Technical field
[0004] The appearance of dandruff, corresponding to a desquamative disorder of the scalp, is generally annoying from an aesthetic point of view and can be the cause of numerous inconveniences (itching, tingling, discomfort, redness, etc.).
[0005] Dandruff corresponds to excessive and visible desquamation of the scalp, resulting from the too rapid multiplication of epidermal cells. Such a phenomenon can in particular be induced by microtraumas of a physical or chemical nature, such as overly aggressive hair treatments, extreme climatic conditions, nervousness, diet, fatigue, pollution, but it has been demonstrated that dandruff conditions most often result from a disorder of the scalp microflora, and more particularly from the excessive colonization of a yeast belonging to the family of yeasts of the genus Malassezia (formerly called Pytiz-rosporum ovale) and which is naturally present on the scalp.
[0006] In order to combat dandruff, it is common to use antifungal agents applied topically to the scalp. Such agents aim, through their antifungal power, to eliminate or control the multiplication of a resident yeast of the scalp, belonging to the genus Malassezia and its variants, for example Malassezia. ovalis, Malassezia. orbiculare, Malassezia fufur, Malassezia globosa, etc.).
[0007] Among the antifungal agents, mention may in particular be made of zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine or selenium disulfide. However, such antifungal agents have the disadvantage of not being entirely satisfactory, particularly in terms of efficacy (whether on application and / or in the long term), and may, in certain cases, disrupt the physiological equilibrium state of the skin microbiome.
[0008] Thus there is a real need to propose a composition intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp (or scalp) and hair, which does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, that is to say a composition capable of effectively treating dandruff conditions, in particular those associated with the proliferation of yeasts of the genus Malassezia, without unbalancing the physiological state of the microbiome.
[0009] In other words, one of the aims of the present invention is in particular to propose a composition capable of effectively preventing and / or treating dandruff of the scalp, in particular caused by yeast of the genus Malassezia, and of rebalancing the physiological state of the microbiome. Statement of the invention
[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising:
[0011] a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one ali chain linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated phatic containing 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts;
[0012] b) at least one antioxidant agent;
[0013] c) at least one compound of the following formula (I):
[0014] (R1)(R2)(R3)m A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (I)
[0015] Formula (I) in which
[0016] Rb R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C2 alkyl group, more preferably Cb
[0017] A represents a nitrogen atom or a sulfur atom,
[0018] m = 0oul,
[0019] n = 0oul,
[0020] X is a divalent alkyl group (also called alkylene), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2) groups;
[0021] Y- represents the group -COO or OSO3
[0022] it being understood that:
[0023] when A represents a sulfur atom then m=0 and R4 and R5, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, C1-C10, preferably C1-C6, more preferably C1-C4, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from the following groups: -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -C0NH2,
[0024] when A represents a nitrogen atom and m = 0 then R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C8 alkyl group, preferably a saturated, linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, and R5 forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably from 5 to 6 members; the heterocycle possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from a hydroxyl group (-OH) or a C1-C4 alkyl group;
[0025] when A represents a nitrogen atom and m=1 then R4 and R5, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain in C1-C10, preferably in C1-C6, more preferably in C1-C4, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2;
[0026] d) at least one pyridine derivative and / or their solvates such as hydrates.
[0027] The composition according to the invention remedies the previously cited drawbacks, that is to say that the composition makes it possible to effectively prevent and / or treat dandruff conditions, in particular those associated with the proliferation of yeasts of the genus Ma-lassezia, without inducing an imbalance in the physiological state of the microbiome.
[0028] In other words, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to eliminate and / or reduce and / or prevent, preferably to eliminate and / or reduce, the number of dandruff flakes as well as the desquamative disorder caused by yeasts of the genus Ma-lassezia and their variants (in particular their metabolites) while respecting the physiological state of the microbiome.
[0029] In other words, the composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to prevent excessive colonization of the scalp by yeasts of the genus Malassezia and to effectively treat the desquamative disorder caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia, which makes it possible to ensure respect, or better still rebalancing, of the physiological state of the skin microbiome.
[0030] The composition according to the invention thus has the advantage of having a selective activity on yeasts of the genus Malassezia and / or their variants and of respecting the “healthy” bacteria of the microbiome, thus ensuring the maintenance of the physiological state of the microbiome.
[0031] The composition according to the invention therefore advantageously has a selective anti-dandruff activity on yeasts of the genus Malassezia and / or their variants.
[0032] The composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to maintain or even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.
[0033] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to treat dandruff of the scalp over the long term.
[0034] The composition according to the invention can advantageously be applied daily; it has been found that the hair retains a clean appearance after application, even after one or even two days of application.
[0035] The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp (or scalp) and hair, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined above.
[0036] Preferably, the cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers is intended to eliminate, reduce and / or prevent dandruff, in particular that caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia and / or their metabolites.
[0037] The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention, as defined above, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp (or scalp) and hair, preferably for the prevention and / or treatment of dandruff of the scalp.
[0038] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is used for the prevention and / or treatment of dandruff of the scalp associated with yeasts of the genus Malassezia and / or their metabolites.
[0039] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.
[0040] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0041] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
[0042] Similarly, the expression "at least" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "greater than or equal to".
[0043] Furthermore, the expression "coloring agent" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "coloring agent".
[0044] In a manner known per se, the term “Cn” or “Cn” compound or group denotes a compound or group containing “n” atoms of carbon.
[0045] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.
[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "yeast of the genus Malassezia" means any species or variety of yeast belonging to the genus Malassezia. Mention may be made, without limitation, of the following yeast species: Malassezia furfur, Malassezia globosa, Malassezia restricta, Malassezia sympodialis, Malassezia obtuse, Malassezia slooffiae, Malassezia pachydermatis, Malassezia ovalis and Malassezia folliculitis. Composition Agent a)
[0047] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts.
[0048] Preferably, the acid(s) comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably propionic acid.
[0049] The salts of the acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from the salts of alkali metals, of alkaline earth metals, more preferably from the salts of alkali metals, better still the salts of sodium or potassium, better still of sodium.
[0050] Advantageously, the agent a) is chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, their salts and their mixtures, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, the magnesium salts, the potassium salts of propionic acid and their mixtures, more preferably from sodium propionate.
[0051] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0052] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of propionic acid and / or one of its salts ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0053] According to a preferred embodiment, the total sodium propionate content ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. b) Antioxidant agent
[0054] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises b) at least one antioxidant agent.
[0055] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “antioxidant agent” means an agent which slows down or prevents the oxidation of other chemical substances upon contact with it.
[0056] Preferably, the antioxidant agent b) is chosen from, alone or as a mixture, ascorbic acid, its salts, its derivatives, its isomers, and aromatic ketones.
[0057] Preferably, the aromatic ketone(s) is(are) chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (II): o < n) HAS R^R'
[0058] in which:
[0059] - R is a substituted or unsubstituted aromatic ring, preferably substituted by one or several alkyl, hydroxyl, amino, thiol groups;
[0060] - R' is a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms, substituted or not.
[0061] Preferably, in formula (II):
[0062] - R is an aromatic ring substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, of preferably substituted by a single hydroxyl group;
[0063] - R' is a linear alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl, amino, thiol groups.
[0064] As examples of preferred aromatic ketones according to the invention, mention may be made of hydroxyacetophenones such as p-hydroxyacetophenone (or 4-hydroxy acetophenone), 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, alpha hydroxy-acetophenone and mixtures thereof.
[0065] Advantageously, the antioxidant agent(s) are chosen from ascorbic acid, its salts, its derivatives, its isomers and their mixtures.
[0066] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "ascorbic acid derivatives" may be understood to mean those obtained by blocking at least one of the hydroxyl sites, in particular by esterification or etherification with, for example, phosphate, sulfate or alkyl compounds. This may include, in particular, ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, palmitate ascorbyl, ascorbyl glucoside.
[0067] In other words, the ascorbic acid derivatives are selected from the group consisting of ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.
[0068] Among the derivatives of ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside is preferably used, which corresponds to the formula:
[0069] The salts of ascorbic acid may be chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts.
[0070] Preferably, the antioxidant agent(s) are chosen from ascorbic acid, its salts, and its derivatives, hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p-hydroxyacetophenone and their mixtures; preferentially from ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
[0071] More preferably, the antioxidant agent is ascorbyl glucoside.
[0072] Advantageously, the total content of antioxidant agent(s) b) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] Advantageously, the total content of antioxidant agents chosen from ascorbic acid, its salts, and its derivatives, hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p-hydroxyacetophenone and their mixtures, varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0074] Advantageously, the total content of ascorbyl glucoside ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0075] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: a) propionic acid and / or one of its salts in a total content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b) ascorbyl glucoside, in a content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, c) at least one compound of formula (I), as defined below, and d) at least one pyridine derivative and / or their solvates such as hydrates. (c) Compound of formula (I)
[0076] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises c) at least one compound of the following formula (I):
[0077] (R1)(R2)(R3)m A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (I)
[0078] Formula (I) in which
[0079] Rb R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C2 alkyl group, more preferably Cb
[0080] A represents a nitrogen atom or a sulfur atom,
[0081] m = 0oul,
[0082] n = 0oul,
[0083] X is a divalent alkyl group (also called alkylene), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2) groups;
[0084] Y- represents the group -COO or OSO3
[0085] it being understood that:
[0086] when A represents a sulfur atom then m=0 and R4 and R5, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, in C1-C10, preferably in C1-C6, more preferably in C1-C4, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from the following groups: -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2,
[0087] when A represents a nitrogen atom and m = 0 then R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a Cr-C8 alkyl group, preferably a saturated, linear or branched Cr-C4 alkyl group, and R5 forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably from 5 to 6 members; the heterocycle possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from a hydroxyl group (-OH) or a Cr-C4 alkyl group;
[0088] when A represents a nitrogen atom and m=1 then R4 and R5, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain of C1-C10, preferably C1-C6, more preferably C1-C4, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2.
[0089] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more compounds of formula (I) which is a zwitterionic amino acid derivative carrying a quaternary ammonium group and comprising in total from 1 to 12, better still from 2 to 10, even better still from 3 to 8, carbon atoms.
[0090] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more compounds of formula (I) in which R1 and R2 are identical and correspond to methyl.
[0091] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more compounds of formula (I) in which A is a nitrogen atom.
[0092] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more compounds of formula (I) in which Y is the COO group.
[0093] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more compounds of formula (I) in which R1 and R2 are identical and correspond to methyl, A represents a nitrogen atom and Y is COO.
[0094] When present, R3 is preferably methyl.
[0095] Preferably, X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2).
[0096] Preferably, X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene.
[0097] Preferably, R4 and R5, similar or different, may represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated, linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C6 alkyl group, more preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group; a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono or bicyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono or bicyclic) substituted by an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2.
[0098] Preferably, when A represents a nitrogen atom and m=0, R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 links, preferably from 5 to 6 links, possibly substituted by a hydroxyl.
[0099] More preferably, the composition comprises one or more compounds of formula (I) in which R 1 and R 2 are identical and correspond to methyl, A represents a nitrogen atom and Y is COO, and X (when present) is a divalent, linear or branched, saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.
[0100] Preferably, R4 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0101] Preferably, R5 represents a hydrogen atom, or a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched C1-C6, more preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group optionally substituted by a group chosen from a hydroxyl group (-OH), an amino group (-NH2), a -COOH group, a -CONH2 group.
[0102] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) is or are selected from the group consisting of betaine (trimethylglycine), alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, 4-aminobutyric acid betaine, 2-amino isobutyric acid betaine, valine betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, serine betaine, threonine betaine, S-methylcysteine betaine, methionine betaine, phenylglycine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tyrosine betaine, tryptophan betaine, aspartic acid betaine, glutamic acid betaine, asparagine betaine, glutamine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, arginine betaine, trimethyl lysine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, pipecolic acid betaine, thioproline betaine, trimethyl lysine, choline sulfate and mixtures thereof.
[0103] More preferably, the compound of formula (I) is betaine (also called trimethylglycine, alone or in a mixture with one or more other compounds of formula (I).
[0104] Advantageously, the total content of compound(s) of formula (I) varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably varies from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably varies from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0105] Advantageously, the total betaine content varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably varies from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably varies from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pyridine derivative d)
[0106] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention further comprises d) at least one pyridine derivative and / or their solvates such as hydrates.
[0107] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pyridine derivative” means any compound comprising at least pyridine within the structure of said compound.
[0108] In other words, the pyridine derivative(s) and / or their solvates, such as hydrates, comprises at least one substituted pyridine, preferably by at least one group as described below.
[0109] Preferably, the pyridine derivative(s) and its solvates, such as hydrates, are substituted by at least one group chosen from:
[0110] - hydroxy; [YES] - di(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino;
[0112] -thiol;
[0113] - (thio)carboxy;
[0114] - (thio)amido of formula R'4R'5N-C(Xi)-, with Xi representing O, S or NR6, R'4, R'5 and R6, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group;
[0115] - (thio)urea of formula R7R8N-C(X2)-N(R9)-, with X2 representing O, S or NRi0, R? to Rio, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group;
[0116] - (thio)carbonyl of formula Rn-C(X3)-, with X3 representing O or S, and Ru re having a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally substituted;
[0117] preferably amido of formula R^N-CCO)-, more preferably NH2-C(O)-.
[0118] Preferably, the pyridine derivative is niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide).
[0119] Niacinamide is also known as nicotinamide.
[0120] Preferably, the total content of the pyridine derivative(s) and / or their solvates varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably varies from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably varies from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] Preferably, the total niacinamide content varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably varies from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably varies from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients
[0122] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise water, preferably at a content ranging from 10 to 95% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight, preferentially from 40 to 80% by weight, better still from 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0123] The composition may further comprise at least one C1 to C6 monoalcohol.
[0124] By “mono alcohol”, we mean, within the meaning of the present invention, an alcohol which includes exactly one hydroxyl function -OH.
[0125] Thus, by “mono alcohol C1 to C6”, we mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a alcohol comprising exactly one hydroxyl function -OH and which comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0126] Advantageously, the monoalcohol(s) are C1 to C4, in particular chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and their mixtures, preferably the monoalcohol(s) are C1 to C3, more preferably the monoalcohol is ethanol.
[0127] Advantageously, the total content of C1 to C6 monoalcohol(s) ranges from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, even more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, even better from 20 to 28% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0128] Preferably, the ethanol content ranges from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, even more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, even better from 20 to 28% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0129] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one C1 to C6 monoalcohol, as defined above, and water.
[0130] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.
[0131] The non-ionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition of the present invention are for example described in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.
[0132] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, the following compounds may be mentioned, alone or in a mixture: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, - oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan esters, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or not, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C3o)-methylglucamine derivatives; - amine oxides.
[0133] The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.
[0134] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0135] Mention may in particular be made of C8 to C40 fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles, or even from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18; in particular lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: LAURETH-4).
[0136] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan can be chosen from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquii-sostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.
[0137] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids (preferably C12-C18) and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide may be chosen from esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), - polyoxyethylene sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65), - trioleate polyoxyethylene sorbitan (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-85).
[0138] The oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or not, saturated or not, can be such as sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil (or copra), coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, rosehip oil, Castor oil, Rye oil, Sesame oil, Rice bran oil, Camelina oil, Soybean oil, Sunflower oil, Pracaxi oil, Babassu oil, Mongongo oil, Marula oil, Arara oil, Shea butter oil, Brazil nut oil.In particular, hydrogenated vegetable oils include hydrogenated palm oil and hydrogenated castor oil.
[0139] The number of moles of ethylene oxide in the oxyethylenated vegetable oils can range from 2 to 200, preferably from 10 to 100, preferentially from 20 to 80.
[0140] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from C8 to C40 fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated, preferably comprising from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters and sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or unsaturated, and mixtures thereof, preferably from oxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or unsaturated, and mixtures thereof.
[0141] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil.
[0142] Advantageously, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0143] Advantageously, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
[0145] Among the additives that may be used, mention may be made of reducing agents, thickening agents, softeners, moisturizing agents, UV filters, solubilizers, perfumes, proteins, vitamins other than antioxidant agents, polymers, preservatives, fatty substances and their mixtures.
[0146] The pH of the composition according to the invention, when it is aqueous, advantageously varies from 5 to 9, preferably from 6 to 8, more preferably from 6.5 to 7.5.
[0147] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents commonly used. Among the alkalinizing agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of ammonia, alkanolamines, mineral or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as, for example, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
[0148] Preferably, the composition comprises:
[0149] a) propionic acid and / or one of its salts, b) ascorbyl glucoside,
[0150] c) betaine, d) niacinamide.
[0151] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: a) propionic acid and / or one of its salts in a total content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b) ascorbyl glucoside, in a content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, c) betaine, in a content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, d) niacinamide in a content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0152] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: a) sodium propionate in a total content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b) ascorbyl glucoside in a content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, c) betaine, in a content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably varying from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably varying from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, d) niacinamide in a content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 1 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Process
[0153] As indicated above, the invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp (or scalp) and hair, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least the composition as defined above.
[0154] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises at least the application to the scalp of at least one composition as defined above.
[0155] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed after its application to keratin materials, preferably to the scalp and hair.
[0156] The method according to the invention is advantageously a cosmetic treatment method for eliminating, reducing and / or preventing dandruff, in particular that caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia and / or their metabolites.
[0157] Even more advantageously, the method according to the invention is a method for eliminating, reducing and / or preventing dandruff caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia and / or their metabolites.
[0158] Preferably, the method according to the invention is a cosmetic treatment method for eliminating, reducing and / or preventing dandruff due to the proliferation of yeasts of the genus Malassezia on the scalp.
[0159] According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is a cosmetic treatment method for eliminating, reducing and / or preventing dandruff due to the proliferation of yeasts of the genus Malassezia on the scalp, comprising at least the application to the scalp of at least one composition as defined above.
[0160] In accordance with this preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises:
[0161] a) propionic acid and / or one of its salts in a total content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b) ascorbyl glucoside, in a content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, c) glycine betaine in a content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably varying from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably varying from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 4%, relative to the total weight of the composition, d) niacinamide in a content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Use
[0162] Likewise, the present invention relates to the use of said composition, as defined above, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp (or scalp) and hair, preferably for the prevention and / or treatment of dandruff of the scalp.
[0163] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is used for the prevention and / or treatment of dandruff of the scalp associated with yeasts of the genus Malassezia and / or their metabolites.
[0164] More preferably, the composition according to the invention is used for the prevention and / or treatment of dandruff of the scalp due to the proliferation of yeasts of the genus Malassezia on the scalp.
[0165] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is used for inhibiting the growth of yeast of the genus Malassezia.
[0166] Another object of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention to maintain or even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.
[0167] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES
[0168] Compositions A1 and A2, as described in Table 1 below, were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material (% MA) unless otherwise stated.
[0169] [Tables 1] Compositions Al (invention) A2 (invention) Ethanol 30 20 Betaine (trimethylglycine) 3 3 Ascorbyl glucoside 3 3 Niacinamide 3 3 PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 1.2 1.2 Sodium propionate 1.0 1.0 pH agent Qs pH = 7 Qs pH = 7 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0170] Hair lotions are obtained which can be applied to the scalp and hair. There is no need to rinse them.
[0171] It was observed that the hair retained a clean visual appearance after the first application of the lotions (on D0), and also on D1, after a second application.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and their salts, b) at least one antioxidant agent, c) at least one compound of the following formula (I): (R1)(R2)(R3)m A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (I) Formula (I) in which R1, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C2 alkyl group, more preferably C1, A represents a nitrogen atom or a sulfur atom, m = 0 or 1, n = 0 or 1, X is a divalent alkyl group (also called alkylene), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2) groups; Y- represents the group -COO or OSO3 it being understood that: when A represents a sulfur atom then m=0 and R4 and R5, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, in C1-C10, preferably in C1-C6, more preferably in C1-C4, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from the following groups: -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -C0NH2, when A represents a nitrogen atom and m = 0 then R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C8 alkyl group, preferably a saturated, linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, and R5 forms with the atom of nitrogen a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably from 5 to 6 members;the heterocycle being able to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from a hydroxyl group (-OH) or a C1-C4 alkyl group; when A represents a nitrogen atom and m=1 then R4 and R5, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain in C1-C10, preferably in C1-C6, more preferably in C1-C4, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; d) at least one pyridine derivative and / or their solvates such as hydrates.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the agent a) is chosen from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, their salts and their mixtures, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, the magnesium salts, the potassium salts of propionic acid and their mixtures, more preferably from sodium propionate.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of agent(s) a) varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that b) the antioxidant agent is chosen from, alone or as a mixture, ascorbic acid, its salts, its derivatives, its isomers and aromatic ketones.
5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the aromatic ketones correspond to the following formula (II): O ® R* in which: - R is a substituted or unsubstituted aromatic ring, preferably substituted by one or more alkyl, hydroxyl, amino or thiol groups; - R' is a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms, substituted or not; preferably the aromatic ketones are chosen from p-hydroxyacetophenone (or 4-hydroxy acetophenone), 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, alpha hydroxyacetophenone and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that b) the antioxidant agent is chosen from: - ascorbic acid, - salts of ascorbic acid, preferably salts of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, in particular salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium salts, - ascorbic acid derivatives, preferably chosen from ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucoside and mixtures thereof, preferably ascorbyl glucoside, in particular ascorbyl glucoside corresponding to the following formula: - isomers of ascorbic acid, and - their mixtures; preferably, b) the antioxidant agent is chosen from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl glucoside.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of antioxidant agent(s) b) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that c) the compound(s) correspond to formula (I) in which R 1 and R 2 are identical and correspond to methyl, A represents a nitrogen atom and Y is COO.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that c) the compound(s) corresponding to formula (I) is or are chosen from the group consisting of betaine (trimethylglycine), alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, acid 4-aminobutyric acid betaine, 2-amino isobutyric acid betaine, valine betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, serine betaine, threonine betaine, S-methylcysteine betaine, methionine betaine, phenylglycine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tyrosine betaine, tryptophan betaine, aspartic acid betaine, glutamic acid betaine, asparagine betaine, glutamine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, arginine betaine, trimethyl lysine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, pipecolic acid betaine, thioproline betaine, trimethyl lysine, choline sulfate and mixtures thereof, preferably betaine.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of compound(s) of formula (I) varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably varies from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably varies from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the claims, characterized in that d) the pyridine derivative(s) and / or their solvates, such as hydrates, is or are substituted by at least one group chosen from: - hydroxy; - di(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino; - thiol; - (thio)carboxy; - (thio)amido of formula R'4R'5N-C(Xi)-, with Xi representing O, S or NR6, R'4, R'5 and R6, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group; - (thio)urea of formula R7R8N-C(X2)-N(R9)-, with X2 representing O, S or NRio, R7 to Rio, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group; - (thio)carbonyl of formula Rn-C(X3)-, with X3 representing O or S, and Ru representing a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that d) the pyridine derivative is niacinamide.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of pyridine derivative(s) d) varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably primarily from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp (or scalp) and hair, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.
15. Method according to claim 14, characterized in that it is a cosmetic treatment for the elimination, reduction and / or prevention of dandruff, preferably dandruff caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia and / or their metabolites.
16. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp (or scalp) and hair, preferably for the prevention and / or treatment of dandruff of the scalp.
17. Use according to claim 16, for the prevention and / or treatment of dandruff of the scalp due to the proliferation of yeasts of the genus Malassezia on the scalp.
18. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13, for inhibiting the growth of yeast of the genus Malassezia.
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