Hair coloring process comprising a step of washing the hair with a composition at basic pH and comprising at least one anionic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant

The hair coloring process, which includes a basic pH surfactant wash and application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound with reactive polymers and coloring agents, addresses the issue of uneven color distribution and low resistance to shampoos, resulting in a homogeneous, durable hair color.

FR3157155A1Pending Publication Date: 2025-06-27LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023014702
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-12-21
Publication Date
2025-06-27

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair coloring methods suffer from low resistance to shampoos and external agents, leading to uneven color distribution along the hair fiber, particularly between the root and tip.

Method used

A hair coloring process involving a washing step with a basic pH composition containing anionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic surfactants, followed by application of a hair coloring composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a polymer with reactive carboxylic acid groups, and a coloring agent.

Benefits of technology

The process achieves a homogeneous, long-lasting colored coating on hair that is resistant to shampoos and external aggressions such as brushing and perspiration.

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Abstract

Title: Process for coloring hair comprising a step of washing the hair with a composition at a basic pH and comprising at least one anionic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, followed by the application to the hair of a hair coloring composition comprising a particular (poly)carbodiimide compound, a specific polymer and a coloring agent The present invention relates to a process for coloring hair comprising: (a) a step of washing the hair with a composition T comprising at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, and having a basic pH; then (b) the application to the hair of a coloring composition C comprising: - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound of formula (II); - at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids;and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.;
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Description

Title of the invention: Process for coloring hair comprising a step of washing the hair with a composition at basic pH and comprising at least one anionic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, followed by the application to the hair of a hair coloring composition comprising a particular (poly)carbodiimide compound, a specific polymer and a coloring agent

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for coloring hair comprising a step of washing the hair with a composition comprising at least one anionic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and having a basic pH, then applying to the hair a hair coloring composition C comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids and a coloring agent. Technical field

[0002] In the field of coloring hair keratin fibers, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers using different techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or dye precursors for permanent colorings.

[0003] There are basically three types of hair coloring process:

[0004] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;

[0005] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not involve the oxidative condensation process and is resistant to 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;

[0006] c) temporary coloring which results in a change in the natural color of the hair which lasts from one shampoo to the next and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “make-up” process.

[0007] Another coloring method consists of using pigments. Indeed, the use of pigments on the surface of keratin fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorings on dark hair since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber. However, the colorings obtained by this These coloring methods have the disadvantage of having low resistance to shampoos as well as to external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing and / or friction. The colors obtained can also be too selective, that is to say that the color difference is too great along the same keratin fiber which is differently sensitized between its tip and its root.

[0008] There therefore remains a need to have a hair coloring process, which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and various attacks that the hair may be subjected to, such as brushing and / or rubbing.

[0009] Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a hair coloring process which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous and smooth colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating improving the persistence to shampoos and to the various aggressions that the hair may undergo such as brushing and / or rubbing. Statement of the invention

[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a hair coloring process comprising:

[0011] (a) a step of washing the hair with a composition T comprising at least a surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures, and having a basic pH; then

[0012] (b) applying to the hair a hair coloring composition C including:

[0013] - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound chosen from the compounds of formula (II) next:

[0014] in which:

[0015] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;

[0016] - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally in interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

[0017] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes a whole number ranging from 1 to 3;

[0018] - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in C 1 - Cig, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;

[0019] - E independently represents a group chosen from:

[0020] -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-,

[0021] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

[0022] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

[0023] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

[0024] - at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids; and

[0025] - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.

[0026] Thanks to the hair coloring process according to the invention, colored coatings are obtained on the hair, making it possible to obtain a visible coloring on all types of hair, and lasting after shampooing. Such a coating can be resistant to external aggressions that the hair can be subjected to, such as brushing and perspiration. The coloring process according to the invention makes it possible in particular to obtain a homogeneous coating.

[0027] The expression “at least one” means one or more.

[0028] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0029] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within variants not illustrated.

[0030] For the purposes of the present invention and, unless otherwise indicated,

[0031] - an “alkyl” radical denotes a saturated linear or branched radical containing by example of 1 to 20 carbon atoms;

[0032] - an “aminoalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group;

[0033] - a “hydroxyalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group;

[0034] - an “alkylene” radical denotes a divalent saturated C2-C4 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;

[0035] - a “cycloalkyl” or “alicycloalkyl” radical denotes a hydrocarbon group saturated cyclic mono-, or polycyclic, preferably monocyclic, bicyclic or tricyclic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, or norbornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl, it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group,

[0036] - a “cycloalkylene” radical denotes a divalent cycloalkyl group with “cy “cloalkyl” as defined above, preferably C3-C12;

[0037] - an “aryl” radical is an unsaturated and aromatic cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 cycle with 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthlyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents phenyl;

[0038] - an “arylene” radical is a divalent aryl radical with “aryl” as defined above preferably arylene represents phenylene;

[0039] - a “heterocyclic” radical denotes a mono- or poly-hydrocarbon radical cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic, comprising one or more heteroatoms, preferably from 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, comprising from 3 to 20 links, preferably between 5 and 10 links, such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;

[0040] - a “heterocycloalkylene” radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with “heterocyclic” as defined above;

[0041] - an “aryloxy” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl” as defined above cededly;

[0042] - an “alkoxy” radical denotes an alkyl-oxy radical with “alkyl” as defined previously;

[0043] - an “acyloxy” radical denotes an ester radical RC(O)-O- with R an alkyl group as defined above;

[0044] - a “reactive” group is a group capable of forming a bond covalent with another group, identical or different, by chemical reaction.

[0045] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present application, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixture, are also understood to mean.

[0046] By "keratin (capillary) fibers" is meant hair. In other words, the expressions "keratin (capillary) fibers" and "hair" are equivalent in the remainder of the description.

[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. Washing step with a T composition

[0048] As indicated previously, the process according to the invention firstly comprises a step a) of washing with a composition T having a basic pH and comprising at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures.

[0049] Advantageously, the pH of said composition T ranges from 7.5 to 13, preferably from 8 to 12, more preferably from 8 to 10.

[0050] The pH of composition T can be adjusted to a basic pH by the presence of a basic pH adjusting agent.

[0051] Composition T may be in solid form, such as a shampoo in solid form. In this case, the pH useful in the present invention is the pH of the shampoo in contact with water, such as for example at the time of application to wet hair.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions T according to the invention comprise one or more alkaline agents.

[0053] The alkaline agents may be chosen from conventionally used agents, in particular chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonium hydroxides, organic amines, preferably alkanolamines, and mixtures thereof, preferably sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, triethanolamine, preferably sodium hydroxide.

[0054] Composition T may comprise water. Preferably, composition T comprises water.

[0055] Advantageously, the water content, when present, ranges from 40 to 95% by weight, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 85% by weight, even more preferably from 65 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0056] Anionic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants

[0057] According to the invention, the composition T comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Advantageously, the total content of surfactant(s) ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 12 to 30% by weight, better still from 15 to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition T. Anionic surfactants

[0059] The anionic surfactants may be chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants may of course be used.

[0060] It is understood in this description that:

[0061] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one car- carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0062] - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise a carboxylate function; and

[0063] - the anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

[0064] The carboxylate anionic surfactants that can be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0065] They can be chosen from the following compounds: fatty acids, acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkyl ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C30 aryl) ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamido ethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; and their mixtures; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0066] It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.

[0067] Preferably, the carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0068] - fatty acids;

[0069] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoyl- glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0070] - acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as pahnitoyl- sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0071] - acyllactylates, in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behenoyl- lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0072] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20; - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates;

[0073] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in par particularly those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0074] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0075] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may in particular be made of fatty acid type surfactants, in particular C6-C30.

[0076] Among the fatty acids, we can cite lauric, palmitic, myristic, stearic, oleic, behenic acids.

[0077] The fatty acids are advantageously chosen from palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and their mixtures.

[0078] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of sarcosinate type surfactants. Among the alkyl(C6-C3o)sarcosinates, mention may be made of palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates, lauroyl-sarcosinates, and cocoylsarcosinates, in acid form or in salified form.

[0079] The anionic surfactant(s) of sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Among the carboxylic surfactants, mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds proposed by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.

[0081] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).

[0082] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin- sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and the salts of these compounds;

[0083] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0084] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0085] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0086] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsul- fosuccinates.

[0087] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0088] - C6-C24 N-acyltaurates, in particular C12-C20>

[0089] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates, in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0090] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from N-acyltaurates, and in particular N-acyl N-methyltaurates, acylisethionates, as well as their salts and their mixtures.

[0091] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from acylisethionates, as well as their salts and their mixtures.

[0092] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0093] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.

[0094] Preferably, salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0095] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:

[0096] - C6-C3o fatty acids, in particular C8-C24;

[0097] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, preferably C10-C22, in particular C12-C20;

[0098] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably C10-C22, in particular C12-C20; preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0099] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsul- fosuccinates;

[0100] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0101] - C6-C24 N-acyltaurates, in particular C12-C20;

[0102] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;

[0103] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20; especially palmitoylsar- cosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates;

[0104] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates

[0105] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)(amido)ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;

[0106] - C6-C24 acylglutamates, in particular C12-C20;

[0107] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0108] - as well as their salts, in particular their alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts or zinc, ammonium, or amino alcohol;

[0109] - and their mixtures.

[0110] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of composition T are chosen from sulfate-type anionic surfactants, preferably from alkyl(Ci0-C22) sulfates, alkyl(Ci0-C22) ether sulfates and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium alkyl(Ci0-C22) ether sulfates and mixtures thereof. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants

[0111] The composition T according to the present invention may comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0112] In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably non-silicone, used in the composition T according to the present invention, may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0113] Mention may be made in particular of alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C1-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C1-C6)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines and mixtures thereof.

[0114] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, cocoampho- disodium dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0115] As an example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0116] We can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0117] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0118] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, advantageously used are alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Advantageously, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) of composition T are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0120] According to one embodiment, the composition T comprises an amount of surfactant(s) chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0121] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from:

[0122] - alkyl sulfates, in particular C8 to C26, and preferably C10 to C22;

[0123] - alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C8 to C26, and preferably C10 to C22, preferably comprising from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units;

[0124] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, of ammonium, or of amino alcohol, - alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof, better among alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof;

[0125] and mixtures thereof.

[0126] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant as defined above and at least one surfactant amphoteric or zwitterionic as defined above. Additives

[0127] The composition T used in the context of the coloring process according to the invention may also contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

[0128] Among the additives that may be used, mention may be made of reducing agents, thickening agents, softeners, moisturizing agents, UV filters, solubilizers, perfumes, vitamins, polymers, preservatives, fatty substances and their mixtures. (Poly)carbodiimide compounds

[0129] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound of particular formula (II) as indicated above.

[0130] The composition may comprise at least two distinct (poly)carbodihnide compounds, present as a mixture in the composition.

[0131] The term “(poly)carbodiimide compound” means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide group(s), preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferably at least three carbodiimide groups; in particular, the number of carbodiimide groups does not exceed 200, preferably 150, more preferably 100.

[0132] The term “carbodiimide group” means a divalent linear triatomic moiety of general formula - (N=C=N) -.

[0133] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below: <">•

[0134] in which:

[0135] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;

[0136] - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally in interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

[0137] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes a whole number ranging from 1 to 3;

[0138] - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in C 1 - Cig, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;

[0139] - E independently represents a group chosen from:

[0140] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-,

[0141] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

[0142] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

[0143] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

[0144] The term “hydrocarbon radical” means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical having from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon radical is a linear and saturated radical.

[0145] The hydrocarbon radical may comprise one or more cyclic groups.

[0146] The hydrocarbon radical may be interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), in particular chosen from O, S or N and / or substituted by one or more cation(s), anion(s), or zwitterion(s) or cationic group(s) such as ammonium, anionic group(s) such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic group(s), and / or comprising a metal ion which may be incorporated in the form of a salt.

[0147] The term "heteroatom(s)" means an oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atom, as well as halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atoms.

[0148] Preferably, X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom.

[0149] Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently selected from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, Ri and R2 are independently chosen from the following groups (i) to (iv):

[0151] (i) the compound of formula (III) following:

[0152] R7-OC(O)-C(R8)(H)-(III),

[0153] wherein R7 represents a C1-C3 alkyl group, and R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C3 alkyl group, preferably R7 is a methyl and R8 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.

[0154] (ii) the compound of formula (IV) following:

[0155] R9-[O-CH2-C(H)(R10)]p- (IV),

[0156] wherein R9 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; preferably, R9 is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is a hydrogen atom or methyl and p is equal to 1.

[0157] (iii) the compound of formula (V) following:

[0158] (Rn)2N-CH2-C(H)(R12)- (V),

[0159] in which Rn represents a CrC4 alkyl group and R12 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; preferably Ru is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[2 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.

[0160] (iv) the compound of formula (VI) following:

[0161] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),

[0162] in which R[3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; preferably Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[4 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.

[0163] Preferably, R1 and R2 independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

[0164] According to an alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are different and one of the radicals Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.

[0165] Preferably, in formula (IV), R9 is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is hydrogen or methyl and p is 1.

[0166] Preferably, in formula (VI), Rn is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[4 is hydrogen or methyl and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

[0167] According to another alternative embodiment, R1 and R2 are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

[0168] Preferably, n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.

[0169] Preferably, z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.

[0170] Preferably, w is equal to 1.

[0171] Preferably, w is equal to 1, n+z denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10.

[0172] Preferably, Li is chosen from a divalent C 1 -C 10 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical. -Ci8 such as methylene, ethylene, and propylene, a C3-Cn cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, and cyclohexylene, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene, and furanylene, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.

[0173] For example, Li may be selected from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,12-dodecane diisocyanate, norbornane diisocyanate, 2,4-bis-(8-isocyanateoctyl)-1,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'-dicylclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthalene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof.

[0174] Preferably, Li is chosen from a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group and mixtures thereof, such as the compounds of formula (VII) below:

[0175] Preferably, L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane corresponding to the following formula (VIII): (VIII).

[0176]

[0177]

[0178]

[0179]

[0180]

[0181]

[0182]

[0183]

[0184]

[0185] According to another embodiment, when L1 is a C6-C14 arylene group, Li is not the m-tetramethylxylylene radical represented by the following formula (IX): (IX). As previously indicated, E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); and - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s). Preferably, R3 and IC are independently selected from a C6-CM arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and mixtures thereof. More preferably, R3 and IC are independently chosen from a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s). Preferably, when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, R6 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

[0186] Preferably, E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

[0187] More preferably, E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

[0188] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from alpha-methylstyryl-isocyanates of the following formula (X): (X),

[0189] wherein R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and,

[0190] n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 100.

[0191] In this embodiment, the term “alkyl group” is as defined above.

[0192] In this embodiment, the term “cycloalkyl group” is as defined above.

[0193] In this embodiment, n can denote an integer ranging from 2 to 50, preferably from 3 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 10.

[0194] According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XI):

[0195] wherein R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0196] The “alkyl group”, the “cycloalkyl group” and the “aryl group” are such that previously defined.

[0197] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

[0198] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;

[0199] - Ri and R2, are independently chosen from dialkylaminoalcohols, al- esters hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl ethers and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, more preferably, the compound of formula (VI) as described above in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30

[0200] - n and z, when present, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;

[0201] - Li, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent C1-C18, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical;

[0202] - A, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent C1-C18, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical;

[0203] - E, when present, independently represents a group chosen from:

[0204] - -O-R3-O-; -S-IC-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;

[0205] in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;

[0206] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5, when present, is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and

[0207] - R6, when present, is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a cy radical C3-C12 alkylene, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

[0208] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

[0209] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;

[0210] - Ri and R2, are independently chosen from dialkylaminoalcohols, al- esters hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl ethers and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which one hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;

[0211] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;

[0212] - Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in CrCi8, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;

[0213] - E independently represents a group chosen from:

[0214] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;

[0215] in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;

[0216] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and

[0217] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

[0218] More preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

[0219] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;

[0220] - Ri and R2, are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed;

[0221] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;

[0222] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical;

[0223] - E independently represents a group chosen from:

[0224] - -O-R3-O-; -S-IC-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;

[0225] in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;

[0226] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and

[0227] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

[0228] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

[0229] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;

[0230] - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following:

[0231] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),

[0232] in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;

[0233] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;

[0234] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cyclo- heptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and

[0235] - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a radical C6-Ci4 arylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

[0236] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

[0237] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;

[0238] - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following:

[0239] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI)

[0240] in which R13 represents a Cr-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a Cr-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a Cr-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;

[0241] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;

[0242] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cyclo- heptylene, cyclohexylene, 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and

[0243] - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a radical linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

[0244] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XII):

[0245] in which L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

[0246] Advantageously, the total content of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8%, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0247] Polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids

[0248] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably at least one acrylic polymer.

[0249] Preferably, the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably acrylic polymers, are in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of acrylic polymer(s).

[0250] Thus, preferably, composition C comprises at least one acrylic polymer in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles.

[0251] The dispersion(s) may be simple dispersions in the aqueous medium of the cosmetic composition. As a particular case of dispersions, mention may be made of: latex.

[0252] More preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) are in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.

[0253] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds called monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice and preferably at least 3 times.

[0254] By "film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on the hair, and preferably a cohesive film.

[0255] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "acrylic polymer" means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide.

[0256] The unit(s) derived from the (meth)acrylic acid monomers of the polymer may optionally be in the form of salt(s), in particular of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or organic base.

[0257] The esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates) are advantageously chosen from alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C1 to C30 alkyl, preferably C1 to C20, better still C1 to C10, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C6 to C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2 to C6 hydroxyalkyl.

[0258] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl (meth)acrylate.

[0259] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

[0260] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

[0261] The particularly preferred (meth)acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably C1 to C30 alkyl, more preferably C1 to C20, even better C1 to C10, and even more particularly C1 to C4.

[0262] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may be fluorinated, or even perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

[0263] As amides of (meth)acrylic acid, mention may be made, for example, of (meth)acrylamides, as well as N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular of C alkyl 2 to Ci2. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, we can cite N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

[0264] The acrylic polymer according to the invention may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, advantageously a copolymer, even better a copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and (meth)acrylic acid esters.

[0265] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) according to the invention comprise one or more units derived from the following monomers:

[0266] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and

[0267] b) C1 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably C1 to C20, even better C1 to Cm, and even more particularly C1 to C4.

[0268] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles does not comprise a surfactant.

[0269] The term “surfactant” means any agent capable of modifying the surface tension between two surfaces.

[0270] Among the acrylic polymers according to the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate such as the compound sold under the trade name LUVIMER MAE by the company BASF, or the compound Polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer sold under the trade name FIXATE SUPERHOLD POLYMER by the company LUBRIZOL, or the compound Acrylate Copolymer sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000VP3 by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO, or the compound Acrylate Copolymer sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO.

[0271] The acrylic polymer may optionally comprise one or more additional monomers, other than the (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide monomers.

[0272] As additional monomer, examples that may be mentioned are styrenic monomers, in particular styrene and alpha-methylstyrene, and preferably styrene.

[0273] In particular, the acrylic polymer may be a styrene / (meth)acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one C1 to C20 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably C1 to C10.

[0274] The C 1 to C 10 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate.

[0275] As acrylic polymer, mention may be made of the styrene / (meth)acrylate(s) copolymers marketed under the name JONCRYL 77 by the company BASF, under the designation nomination YODOSOL GH41F by the company AKZO NOBEL and under the name SYNTRAN 5760 CG by the company INTERPOLYMER.

[0276] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles.

[0277] More preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles comprising one or more units derived from the following monomers:

[0278] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and

[0279] b) C1 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably C1 to C20, even better C1 to Cm, and even more particularly C1 to C4.

[0280] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles has an acrylic polymer (or active material, or dry matter) content based on the weight of the dispersion of 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably of 22 to 55% by weight and even better of 25 to 50% by weight.

[0281] Advantageously, the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably acrylic polymers, are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0282] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particles preferably ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Coloring agent

[0283] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures.

[0284] Preferably, the composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one pigment.

[0285] By "pigment" is meant all pigments providing color to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.

[0286] The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopedia of chemical technology and in the Ullmann encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.

[0287] They can be natural, of natural origin, or not.

[0288] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.

[0289] The pigments may for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.

[0290] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.

[0291] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.

[0292] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, qui-nacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0293] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0294] As an example, we can also cite organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:

[0295] - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710);

[0296] - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680);

[0297] - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105);

[0298] - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);

[0299] - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);

[0300] - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);

[0301] - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);

[0302] - COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);

[0303] - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).

[0304] The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

[0305] The organic pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant the dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0306] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0307] Among the colorants, we can cite carminic acid. Also included are dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0308] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0309] The pigment may also be a special effect pigment. Special effect pigments are understood to mean pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vividness and a certain clarity) that is non-uniform and changes depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus opposed to colored pigments that provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.

[0310] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter.

[0311] Examples of special effect pigments that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. pearlescent pigments, we can cite Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO 2-lake), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3) Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2 O3).

[0312] Mention may also be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu-antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold tint, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and pinkish-orange, golden-green mother-of-pearl notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian Summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.;

[0313] Still as an example of nacres, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

[0314] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.

[0315] Finally, as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those marketed by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or sodium borosilicate may also be considered. calcium and aluminum, and aluminum.

[0316] The special effect pigments may also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) which constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to shine.

[0317] The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.

[0318] These particles can have various shapes, in particular being platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical.

[0319] The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multi-layer structure or not and, in the case of a multi-layer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.

[0320] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.

[0321] When the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, they may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be single-material, multi-material, organic and / or inorganic.

[0322] More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.

[0323] The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or a metallic material.

[0324] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

[0325] Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.

[0326] Platelet-shaped particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.

[0327] It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0328] Examples include aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.

[0329] Mention may also be made of interference effect pigments not fixed on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), interference holographic flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances that fluoresce in daylight or that produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.

[0330] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic and interference effects.

[0331] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 qm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 qm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 qm.

[0332] The pigments can be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.

[0333] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and of polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic) acid stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750g / mole such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxy stearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures.

[0334] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.

[0335] The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.

[0336] Thus, the previously surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those which are described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention.These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicon compounds.

[0337] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.

[0338] The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such commercially.

[0339] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.

[0340] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the agent surface or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.

[0341] The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

[0342] Preferably, an organic agent covalently bound to the pigments will be used.

[0343] The surface treatment agent may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.

[0344] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:

[0345] - a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW;

[0346] - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW;

[0347] - a Dimethicone treatment such as Covasil 3.05 com surface treatment marketed by LCW;

[0348] - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment as the surface treatment Covasil 4.05 marketed by LCW;

[0349] - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM com surface treatment marketed by LCW;

[0350] - an Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as MI com surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;

[0351] - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment as the surface treatment FHC marketed by LCW;

[0352] - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment like the commercialized HS surface treatment by Miyoshi;

[0353] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as PF surface treatment marketed by Daito;

[0354] - an acrylate / Dimethicone and Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate Copolymer treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito;

[0355] - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito;

[0356] - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment as the surface treatment ASC marketed by Daito;

[0357] - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito;

[0358] - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as APD surface treatment com sold by Daito;

[0359] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.

[0360] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in particulate form of sub-micron size.

[0361] By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.

[0362] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment), according to a weight ratio, of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.

[0363] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants. Suitable dispersing agents include:

[0364] - amino-silicones ie silicones comprising one or more amino groups such than those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers,

[0365] - silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik,

[0366] - polydimethylsiloxane silicones (PDMS) with carboxylic groups such as X- 22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.

[0367] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of amino-silicone type and are cationic.

[0368] Preferably, the pigment(s) is (are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.

[0369] In one variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.

[0370] Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black. As an example of iron oxide, mention may be made of iron oxide sold by Sun Chemical Company under the name SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide. [0371 ] Direct dye

[0372] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more direct dye(s).

[0373] By "direct dye" is meant natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber. They can be ionic, for example cationic or anionic, or non-ionic.

[0374] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.

[0375] The direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called “acid” direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances. By anionic direct dyes is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from acid nitro direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azine dyes, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.

[0376] A titre d’exemple de colorants acides on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow; Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ;

[0377] A titre d’exemple de colorants azo anioniques pyrazolones on peut citer : Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76Acid Yellow 17 ;

[0378] Examples of anthraquinone dyes include: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2 Acid Black 48;

[0379] Examples of nitrated dyes include: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; examples of dyes of formula (XXII') include: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino 5-nitro benzene sulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;

[0380] Examples of triarylmethane dyes include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.

[0381] Examples of xanthene dyes include: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9.

[0382] Examples of indolic dyes include: Acid Blue 74;

[0383] Examples of quinoline dyes include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.

[0384] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna may also be used.

[0385] The coloring agent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.

[0386] The pigment(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0387] The direct dye(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent

[0388] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent.

[0389] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-carboxylic agent” means an agent which does not comprise a carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COO) function.

[0390] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “thickening agent” means a compound which increases the viscosity of a composition into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, Haake R600 Rheometer or the like).

[0391] Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from non-carboxylic anionic polymers, more preferably from anionic polymers with sulfonic group(s).

[0392] For the purposes of the invention, the term “anionic polymer” means a polymer comprising one or more anionic or anionizable groups and not comprising a cationic or cationizable group.

[0393] Advantageously, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from anionic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer with a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form.

[0394] These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.

[0395] These polymers may be associative or not, preferably non-associative.

[0396] It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0397] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0398] By “hydrophobic group” is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0399] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may originate from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0400] The ethylenically unsaturated monomers with a sulfonic group are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(CrC22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido-(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

[0401] More preferably, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22) alkylsulfonic acids will be used, such as, for example, acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid and their partially or fully neutralized forms.

[0402] More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or totally neutralized forms will be used.

[0403] Among the copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, mention may be made of crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and partially or totally neutralized acrylamide, and mention may be made in particular of the product described in example 1 of document EP 503 853 and reference may be made to this document with regard to these polymers.

[0404] Mention may also be made of copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or its salts and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as the compound sold under the name Sepinov EMT 10 by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

[0405] The associative AMPS polymers may in particular be chosen from random associative AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen for example from (meth)acrylic acid derivatives, such as their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0406] The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from associative copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation.

[0407] Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from the sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer, marketed by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: hydroxyethylacrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

[0408] Advantageously, the total content of the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C. Associative polymers

[0409] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one associative polymer different from the acrylic polymer and different from the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent as defined previously.

[0410] As recalled above, “associative polymers” are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0411] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0412] By “hydrophobic group” is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0413] The associative polymers can be non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric in nature.

[0414] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.

[0415] Among the associative polymers of anionic type, mention may be made of copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0416] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation and of C1-C4 alcohol.

[0417] As an example of this type of compound, we can cite ACULYN 22® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by the company ROHM and HAAS.

[0418] Advantageously, the associative polymer(s), different from the acrylic polymers and different from the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agents previously described, are chosen from copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0419] Advantageously, the total content of the associative polymer(s) different from the acrylic polymer(s) and different from the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) as defined above ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Solvents

[0420] The composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may be aqueous. The water content may range from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition C.

[0421] In addition, composition C may comprise one or more organic solvents.

[0422] As organic solvent, examples that may be mentioned are lower alkanols in CrC 4, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols, in particular aromatic monoalcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0423] The organic solvents may be present in a total content of between 0.01 and 60% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 50% by weight and more preferably inclusively between 0.1 and 45% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Additives

[0424] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

[0425] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers previously described, preservatives, silicones, oils, waxes other than silicones in wax form, and mixtures thereof.

[0426] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may be in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / W / O), in the form of a cream, mousse, stick, dispersion of vesicles in particular of ionic or non-ionic lipids, two-phase or multi-phase lotion.

[0427] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate galenic form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition. Protocol

[0428] Composition T as defined above can be applied to hair dry or wet, as well as on all hair types, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

[0429] Preferably, a rinsing, spinning and / or drying step is carried out after the application of the composition T as defined previously.

[0430] More preferably, a rinsing step is implemented after the application of composition T as defined previously.

[0431] The application of composition T can be carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).

[0432] After applying composition T, and foaming the composition, one can wait between 1 minute and 30 minutes, preferably up to 15 minutes, or even 10 minutes before rinsing the composition T.

[0433] According to this embodiment, after washing then rinsing, and optionally wringing and / or drying the hair, it is possible to wait between 1 minute and 12 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 10 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 7 hours, more preferably between 1 minute and 6 hours, before applying composition C to the hair.

[0434] Preferably, the application time after washing with composition T and rinsing and before applying composition C is between 1 minute and 5 hours, preferably between 1 minute and 1 hour, on the hair.

[0435] Composition C described above can be used on dry or damp hair, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

[0436] Preferably, a washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying step is carried out after the application of composition C to the hair.

[0437] More preferably, a drying step is carried out after the application of composition C to the hair.

[0438] The application of composition C to the hair can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a brush, a sponge or with the fingers.

[0439] The application of composition C to the hair is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).

[0440] After applying composition C to the hair, it is possible to wait between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferably between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before, for example, a washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying step.

[0441] After applying composition C, the hair may be left to dry or dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.

[0442] The method according to the invention can thus comprise a step of applying heat on the hair using a heating tool.

[0443] The heat application step can be implemented using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a climazon, etc.

[0444] Preferably, the heat application step is carried out using a hair dryer.

[0445] When the method of the invention implements a step of applying heat to the hair, the step of applying heat to the hair takes place after the application of composition C to the hair.

[0446] During the step of applying heat to the hair, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, or passing the fingers through.

[0447] When the step of applying heat to the hair is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C.

[0448] When the step of applying heat to the hair is carried out using a hair straightener, the temperature is preferably between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.

[0449] In a particular variant, the method of the invention implements a step (cl) of applying heat using a helmet, a hair dryer or a climazon, preferably a hair dryer and a step (c2) of applying heat using a straightening or curling iron, preferably a straightening iron.

[0450] Step (cl) can be carried out before step (c2).

[0451] During step (cl), also called the drying step, the hair may be dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 40°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 45°C and less than 110°C.

[0452] Preferably, if the hair is dried, it is dried, in addition to a heat supply, with a flow of air. This flow of air during drying makes it possible to improve the individualization of the sheathing.

[0453] During drying, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, passing the fingers.

[0454] During step (c2), the passage of the straightening or curling iron, preferably the straightening iron, can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 110 to 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.

[0455] After the heating step, a shaping step can be carried out with, for example, a hair straightener, the temperature for the shaping step can be between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.

[0456] According to one embodiment, the invention is a hair coloring method comprising the following steps:

[0457] i) the application to the hair of a composition T comprising at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures, and having a basic pH, as defined previously;

[0458] ii) optionally a time for leaving said composition T on the hair of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably of 1 minute to 30 minutes;

[0459] iii) optionally a step of rinsing, wringing and / or drying said hair, preferably rinsing; then

[0460] iv) the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:

[0461] - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described previously;

[0462] - at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids as defined above; and

[0463] - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described above; then

[0464] v) optionally a time for leaving said composition C on the hair of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably of 1 to 20 minutes; then

[0465] vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying said hair.

[0466] Advantageously, the step of applying composition C to the hair is repeated several times.

[0467] According to a preferred embodiment, step b) of the process according to the invention consists of mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a composition C and applying composition C to the hair, with:

[0468] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound such as previously defined,

[0469] composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably at least one acrylic polymer as defined previously, and at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as defined previously.

[0470] Advantageously, composition B comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably an acrylic polymer as defined previously.

[0471] Preferably, composition B comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described previously.

[0472] According to a preferred embodiment, step b) of the process according to the invention consists of mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a composition C and to apply the composition C to the hair, with:

[0473] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound such as previously defined,

[0474] - composition B comprising at least one acrylic polymer as defined above previously, and at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as defined previously.

[0475] Preferably, composition A does not comprise at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described previously.

[0476] According to this embodiment, compositions A and B are preferably mixed less than 15 minutes before application to the hair, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, better still less than 5 minutes before application.

[0477] The weight ratio between composition A and composition B preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, better still from 0.5 to 2, or even from 0.6 to 1.5. In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between composition A and composition B is equal to 1.

[0478] The total content of the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0479] The total content of the acrylic polymer(s) preferably ranges from 0.2 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better still from 1 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0480] According to a preferred embodiment, the invention is a hair coloring process comprising the following steps:

[0481] i) the application to the hair of a composition T as defined previously comprising water, at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures, and having a basic pH;

[0482] ii) optionally a time for leaving said composition T on the hair of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably of 1 minute to 10 minutes;

[0483] iii) a step of rinsing, optionally wringing and / or drying said hair; then

[0484] iv) the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:

[0485] - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described previously;

[0486] - at least one acrylic polymer as defined above; and

[0487] - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described above; then

[0488] v) optionally a time for leaving said composition C on the hair of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably of 1 to 20 minutes; then

[0489] vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying said hair. Multi-compartment device (kit)

[0490] The present invention also relates to a device for coloring hair comprising several compartments containing:

[0491] - a first compartment comprising the composition T as defined above previously,

[0492] - a second compartment comprising composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above,

[0493] - a third compartment comprising composition B comprising at least one pigment as defined above, and at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids as defined above.

[0494] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES

[0495] The (poly)carbodiimide(s) of the invention are accessible by the synthesis methods known to those skilled in the art from commercial products or reagents that can be synthesized according to chemical reactions also known to those skilled in the art. Examples include the work Sciences of Synthesis - Houben - Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or the American patent US 4,284,730 or the Canadian application CA 2,509,861.

[0496] More particularly, the process for preparing the (poly)carbodiimides of the invention uses, during a first step, a diisocyanate reagent (1): O=C=N-LrN=C=O (1),

[0497] formula (1) in which Li is as defined above which reacts in the presence of a carboimidation catalyst (2) such as those described in US 4,284,730 in particular phosphorus catalysts particularly chosen from phospholene oxides and phospholene sulfoxides, diaza and oxazaphospholanes, preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen or Argon), and in particular in a polar solvent of preferably aprotic such as THF, glyme, diglyme, 1,4-dioxane, and DMF, at a temperature between room temperature and solvent reflux, preferably around 140°C; to yield the carbodiimide diisocyanate compound (3): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)nN=C=O (3),

[0498] formula (3) wherein Li and n are as defined above. Halogenated benzoyl such as benzoyl chloride may be added to deactivate the catalyst.

[0499] To obtain “symmetrical” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined previously, to lead to the “symmetrical” compound according to the invention (4): [R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)]2-E (4),

[0500] formula (4) in which Rb Xb Lh n, and E are as defined previously. According to a variant to obtain compound (4) from (3) it is possible to first add 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent, then 1 eq. of Ri-XrH reagent.

[0501] To obtain “dissymmetric” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH then 1 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined previously, to lead to compound (5): R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EH (5),

[0502] formula (5) in which Rb Xb Lb n, and E are as defined previously.

[0503] According to a variant for obtaining compound (5) from (3) it is possible to first add 1 eq. of reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of reagent HEH.

[0504] In a third step, compound (5) reacts with 1 eq. of compound (6) R2-X2-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (6), said compound (6) is prepared beforehand from compound (3'): O=C=N-Li-(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (3'),

[0505] formula (3') in which Li and z are as defined previously which reacts with 1 eq of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H with Lb R2, X2, and z as defined previously, to lead to the dissymmetric compound (7): Ri-XrC(O)-NH-Li -(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z-NH-C(O)-X2-R2 (7),

[0506] formula (7) in which Rb Xb Lb R2, X2, n, z and E are as defined previously.

[0507] It is also possible to react 1 molar equivalent of compound O=C=N-Li -(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (3') with 1 / w molar equivalent of HEH, then 1 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H to lead to compound (8): H-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH-C(O)-X2-R2(8),

[0508] formula (8) in which Lb R2, X2, z and E are as defined previously, and w is an integer between 1 and 3, more preferably w = 1.

[0509] This latter compound (8) can then react with 1 eq of compound (4'): Ri-Xi-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)nN=C=O (4'), (said compound (4') can be synthesized by reaction of 0.5 eq. of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH with 1 equivalent of compound (3)), to lead to the (poly)carbodiimide of the invention (9):

[0510] R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH C(O)-X2-R2 (9),

[0511] formula (9) in which Lb Rb Xb R2, X2, n, z, w, and E are as defined previously.

[0512] The (poly)carbodiimide compounds as well as all the reaction intermediates and reagents can be purified with conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and water-immiscible organic solvent, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration, and / or chromatography.

[0513] Example 1: Process for the synthesis of the compound (poly)carbodiimide

[0514] In a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with a thermometer, a stirrer and a reflux tube, 50 g of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate and 0.5 g of 4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-l-phenyl-lH-phosphole 1-oxide were introduced with stirring.

[0515] The reaction medium was heated to 140°C under nitrogen for 4 hours, following the reaction by infrared spectroscopy through the absorption of the isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm1, then cooled to 120°C.

[0516] A mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol is introduced into the reaction medium with stirring. The temperature of 120°C is maintained until the isocyanate functions have completely disappeared, monitored by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm1, then cooled to room temperature.

[0517] After cooling to room temperature, the reaction medium is poured dropwise with vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85 g of distilled water to yield the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid. Example 2

[0518] Compositions T1 and T2 as described in Table 1 below were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material / 100g, unless otherwise stated.

[0519] [Tables 1] Compositions Tl T2 Sodium laureth sulfate 19.8 19.8 Cocamidopropyl betaine 3.9 3.9 Preservatives qs qs Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 Lactic acid Qs pH 4.2 - Sodium hydroxide - Qs pH 9.4 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0520] The pH of compositions T1 and T2 was measured using a Mettler Toled Seven Go pH meter.

[0521] Compositions A and B as described below in Tables 2 and 3 were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g, unless otherwise stated.

[0522] [Tables2] Composition A Polycarbodiimide (1) 17.5 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (2) 3 Ethanol 20 Water qsp 100

[0523] (1) synthesized according to the synthesis method described in example 1 (at 40% material active in water),

[0524] (2) sold by the company SEPPIC under the name SEPINOV EMT10 (at 90% of active ingredient).

[0525] [Tables3] Composition B Acrylates copolymer (3) 29.2 Red iron oxide (CI 77491) 12 Divinyldimethicone / dimethicone copolymer (and) C12-13 Pareth-3 (and) C12-13 Pareth-23(4) 10.2 Aminosilicone 8.8 Acrylates / Steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (5) 2.2 Water qsp 100

[0526] (3) acrylic polymer sold by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the name commercial mination DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient),

[0527] (4) sold by the company DOW CORNING under the name DOW CORNING HMW 2220 NON-IONIC EMULSION (Divinyldimethicone / dimethicone block copolymer in aqueous emulsion) (60% active ingredient),

[0528] (5) associative polymer sold by the company ROHM and HAAS under the name commercial ACULYN 22® (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer with 30% active ingredient).

[0529] Composition A was then mixed with composition B at a mass ratio of 50 / 50 to obtain a composition C according to the invention. Protocol

[0530] Two different methods were implemented.

[0531] According to methods 1 and 2, compositions T1, or T2, respectively, were first applied to sensitized locks of hair subsequently called SA20. Each of these compositions was applied to locks of hair, at a rate of 0.8 g of composition per gram of lock. Then the locks of hair were rinsed.

[0532] Composition C was then applied to the locks previously treated with composition T1 or composition T2, at a rate of 0.8 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks of hair were then untangled and dried with a hair dryer.

[0533] The process using composition T1 and then composition C is a comparative process since composition T1 does not have a basic pH. It is referred to below as process PL. The process using composition T2 and then composition C is a process according to the invention. In the following, it is referred to as process P2.

[0534] The methods applied are summarized in Table 4 below:

[0535] [Tables4] PI processes (comparative) P2 (invention) Application of compositions Tl + C T2 + C

[0536] The locks of hair treated by processes PI to P2 were then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the coloring obtained from the shampoos, according to the shampoo protocol described below. Shampoo protocol

[0537] The colored hair strands are combed, moistened under water at 35°C before being passed between the fingers 5 times for 5 seconds. The hair strands are then wrung out between two fingers.

[0538] A standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux) is applied evenly to the colored strands at a rate of 0.4g of standard shampoo per gram of strands, gently kneading the strands of hair lengthwise (6 strokes) for 15 seconds, from root to tip.

[0539] The strands of hair are then placed in a watch glass and left to rest for 1 minute.

[0540] Then, the strands of hair are rinsed with water by passing the strand between the fingers (15 passes). The strands of hair are then wrung out between two fingers before the next shampoo.

[0541] Once the tests of several shampoos are carried out, the strands of hair are combed and dried with a hair dryer. Results

[0542] The color persistence of the strands was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

[0543] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the color intensity, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.

[0544] The persistence of the color is evaluated by the difference in color AE between the colored strands before shampooing, then after having undergone 5 shampoos according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more the color persists after shampooing.

[0545] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation:

[0546] In this equation, L*, a*, b* represent the values ​​measured after coloring the hair and after having undergone shampooing, and Lo*, a0*, b0* represent the values ​​measured after coloring the hair but before shampooing.

[0547] The results are summarized in Table 5 below.

[0548] [Tables5] Processes Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE 1 (comparative) 0 32.8 26.8 22.1 - 5 49.2 15.9 26.4 20.1 2 (invention) 0 32.9 28.0 23.0 - 5 47.3 18.5 25.1 17.4

[0549] The locks of hair treated with the process according to the invention and washed with five shampoos have a lower AE value than that of the locks of hair treated with the comparative process.

[0550] Thus, the colored coating obtained with the process according to the invention has improved persistence to shampooing. Example 3

[0551] Tests were carried out using shampoos with different pH values ​​according to the above protocol on strands of natural hair (BN) and on bleached strands (SA80).

[0552] The results are reported in Table 6 below.

[0553] [Tableauxô] Shampoo pH Hair Type Color Retention % (AE after sh / AE before sh*100) pH = 5.3 BN 85.2 pH = 9.5 (inv) BN 91.4 pH = 5.3 SA80 58.5 pH = 9.5 (inv) SA80 73.3

[0554] These results show that the method of the invention allows an improvement in the color persistence on the hair. This improvement is obtained on natural hair, and it is substantially greater on damaged hair.

Claims

1. Claims Hair coloring process comprising: (a) a step of washing the hair with a composition T comprising at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures, and having a basic pH; then (b) applying to the hair a hair coloring composition C comprising: - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II): (II), in which: - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - R1 and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; - Li independently represents a divalent C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-, in which R3 and R4 independently represent a hy- radical divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms; - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms; - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms; - at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids; and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition T has a pH ranging from 7.5 to 13, more preferably from 8 to 10.

3. Method according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that the composition T comprises at least one alkaline agent, preferably chosen from hydroxides of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, alkanolamines, and their mixtures, preferably sodium hydroxide.

4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) of composition T are chosen from sulfate-type anionic surfactants, preferably from alkyl(Ci0-C22)sulfates, alkyl(Ci0-C22)ethersulfates and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium alkyl(Cio-C22)ethersulfates and mixtures thereof.

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) of composition T are chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof, more preferably still from alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in which the composition T comprises an amount of surfactant(s) chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition T.

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently selected from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - L1 is chosen from a divalent C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical; - E independently represents a group chosen from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w equal to 1; - Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, and - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and - E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (XII) below: (XII), in which Li is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids is an acrylic polymer, preferably an acrylic polymer comprising one or more units derived from the following monomers: a) (meth)acrylic acid; and b) C1 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably C1 to C20, even better C1 to C10, and even more particularly C1 to C4.

14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably acrylic polymers, are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of coloring agent(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.

16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step (b) consists of mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a composition C and applying composition C to the hair, with - composition A comprising at least one compound (poly)carbodiimide as defined in any one of claims 1 and 7 to 11; - composition B comprising at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids as defined in claim 1 or 13, and at least one coloring agent as defined in claim 1.

17. Device for coloring hair comprising several compartments containing: - a first compartment comprising the composition T as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6; - a second compartment comprising composition A comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 7 to 11; - a third compartment comprising composition B comprising at least one pigment as defined in claim 1, and at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids as defined in claim 1 or 13.

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