A method of coloring hair comprising applying a composition comprising a urea compound, an amino acid and a polyol and a hair coloring composition comprising a particular (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent
The hair coloring process, which combines a composition with urea, amino acids, and polyols with a (poly)carbodiimide compound and coloring agents, addresses the challenge of achieving a homogeneous, long-lasting, and resistant hair color.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023014715
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring methods struggle to achieve a homogeneous, long-lasting color on hair while maintaining resistance to shampoos and external aggressions such as brushing and perspiration.
A hair coloring process involving the application of a composition containing a urea compound, an amino acid, and a polyol, followed by a hair coloring composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent.
The process results in a visible, long-lasting color on all hair types that is resistant to shampoos and external aggressions, while ensuring a homogeneous coating.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: A method of coloring hair comprising applying a composition comprising a urea compound, an amino acid and a polyol and a hair coloring composition comprising a particular (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent
[0001] The present invention relates to a method for coloring hair comprising applying a composition T comprising a urea compound, an amino acid and a polyol, then applying to the hair a coloring composition C comprising a particular (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent. Technical field
[0002] In the field of coloring hair keratin fibers, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers using different techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or dye precursors for permanent colorings.
[0003] There are basically three types of hair coloring process:
[0004] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0005] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not involve the oxidative condensation process and is resistant to 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;
[0006] c) temporary coloring which results in a change in the natural color of the hair which lasts from one shampoo to the next and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “make-up” process.
[0007] Another coloring method consists of using pigments. Indeed, the use of pigments on the surface of keratin fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorings on dark hair since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber. However, the colorings obtained by this coloring method have the disadvantage of having low resistance to shampoos as well as to external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing and / or rubbing. The colorings obtained can also be too selective, that is to say that the difference in coloring is too great along the same keratin fiber which is differently sensitized between its tip and its root.
[0008] There therefore remains a need to have a hair coloring process, which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and various attacks that the hair may be subjected to, such as brushing and / or rubbing.
[0009] Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a hair coloring process which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous and smooth colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating which is resistant to shampoos and various attacks which the hair may be subjected to such as brushing and / or rubbing. Statement of the invention
[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a hair coloring process comprising:
[0011] (a) the application to the hair of a composition T comprising:
[0012] (i) at least one urea compound, preferably chosen from those of formula (I), their salts and their hydrates:
[0013] in which: ;
[0014] - RI, R2, R3, R4 represent, independently:
[0015] - a hydrogen atom or
[0016] - a lower alkyl or alkenyl radical C1-C5, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical having 5 to 8 members; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, (C1-C4)alkyl, (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)amino preferably dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;
[0017] it being understood that:
[0018] - when Rh R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 can denote a radical carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl such as acetyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl radical, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl;
[0019] - when RI and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 can represent an atom hydrogen, a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 an acetyl radical;
[0020] - when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a 5 or 6 membered ring such as piperidine rings, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide;
[0021] - RI and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a imidazole ring;
[0022] (ii) at least one amino acid; and
[0023] (iii) at least one polyol; followed
[0024] of a step (b) of application to the hair of a hair coloring composition C comprising:
[0025] - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound chosen from the compounds of formula (II) next: Q (II), -y " . H
[0026] in which:
[0027] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0028] - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally in interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0029] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes a whole number ranging from 1 to 3;
[0030] - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in C 1 - Cig, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
[0031] - E independently represents a group chosen from:
[0032] -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-,
[0033] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0034] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0035] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0036] - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures; and
[0037] - optionally at least one acrylic polymer.
[0038] Thanks to the hair coloring process according to the invention, colored coatings are obtained on the hair, making it possible to obtain a visible coloring on all types of hair, and lasting after shampooing. Such a coating can be resistant to external aggressions that the hair can be subjected to, such as brushing and perspiration. The coloring process according to the invention makes it possible in particular to obtain a homogeneous coating.
[0039] The expression “at least one” means one or more.
[0040] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0041] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within non-illustrated variants.
[0042] For the purposes of the present invention and, unless otherwise indicated,
[0043] - an “alkyl” radical denotes a saturated linear or branched radical containing by example of 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
[0044] - an “aminoalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group;
[0045] - a “hydroxyalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group;
[0046] - an “alkylene” radical denotes a divalent saturated C2-C4 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;
[0047] - a “cycloalkyl” or “alicycloalkyl” radical denotes a hydrocarbon group saturated cyclic mono-, or polycyclic, preferably monocyclic, bicyclic or tricyclic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, or norbornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl, it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group,
[0048] - a “cycloalkylene” radical denotes a divalent cycloalkyl group with “cy- “cloalkyl” as defined above, preferably C3-C12;
[0049] - an “aryl” radical is an unsaturated and aromatic cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 cycle with 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthlyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents phenyl;
[0050] - an “arylene” radical is a divalent aryl radical with “aryl” as defined above preferably arylene represents phenylene;
[0051] - a “heterocyclic” radical denotes a mono- or poly-hydrocarbon radical cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic, comprising one or more heteroatoms, preferably from 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, comprising from 3 to 20 links, preferably between 5 and 10 links, such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;
[0052] - a “heterocycloalkylene” radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with “heterocyclic” as defined above;
[0053] - an “aryloxy” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl” as defined above cededly;
[0054] - an “alkoxy” radical denotes an alkyl-oxy radical with “alkyl” as defined previously;
[0055] - an “acyloxy” radical denotes an ester radical RC(O)-O- with R an alkyl group as defined above;
[0056] - a “reactive” group is a group capable of forming a bond covalent with another group, identical or different, by chemical reaction.
[0057] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present application, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixture, are also understood to mean.
[0058] By "keratin (capillary) fibers" is meant hair. In other words, the expressions "keratin (capillary) fibers" and "hair" are equivalent in the remainder of the description.
[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. Application of composition T
[0060] As indicated previously, the method according to the invention firstly comprises the application of the composition T as defined above.
[0061] Thus, the composition T comprises (i) at least one urea compound, preferably a urea compound of formula (I) as defined above.
[0062] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said compound(s) (i) are chosen from urea, methylurea, ethylurea, propylurea, n-butylurea, sec-butylurea, isobutylurea, tert-butylurea, cyclopentylurea, ethoxyurea, hydroxyethylurea, N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, l-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea, benzylurea, N-carbamoyl maleamide, N-carbamoyl maleamic acid, piperidinecarboxamide, l,2,4-triazol-4-yl-urea, hydantoic acid, methyl allophanate, ethyl allophanate, acetylurea, hydroxyethyleneurea, 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea, diallylurea, chloroethylurea, N,N-dimethylurea, N,N-diethylurea, N,N-dipropylurea, cyclopentyl-1-methylurea, 1,3-dimethylurea, 1,3-diethylurea, l,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea, l,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, l,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-dipropylurea,ethyl-3-propylurea, sec-butyl-3-methylurea, isobutyl-3-methylurea, cyclopentyl-3-methylurea, N-acetyl-N'-methylurea, trimethylurea, butyl-3,3-dimethylurea, tetramethylurea and mixtures thereof.
[0063] Advantageously, compound (i) is chosen from urea, methylurea, propylurea, n-butylurea, sec-butylurea, isobutylurea, tert-butylurea, hydroxyethylurea, trimethylurea, tetramethylurea and mixtures thereof, preferably from urea, i.e. the compound of formula CO(NH2)2.
[0064] Advantageously, the compound(s) (i) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 16% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.
[0065] Composition T further comprises at least one amino acid (ii).
[0066] Preferably, compound (ii) is chosen from natural amino acids, synthetic amines, in their L, D, or racemic form, and mixtures thereof, and comprise at least one acid function chosen from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Said amino acids may be in acid form or in salified form.
[0067] Said amino acids may be α-amino acids, natural or synthetic, comprising a carbon atom C carrying an amino group, a carboxyl group, a hydrogen atom and a side group which may be a hydrogen atom (case of glycine), any other monovalent organic group or a cycle comprising said carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of said amino group and several additional carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 4 additional carbon atoms.
[0068] The side groups may be in particular alkyl groups (case of alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine), substituted alkyl groups (case of
[0069]
[0070]
[0071] threonine, serine, methionine, cysteine, asparagine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glutamine, arginine and lysine), arylalkyl groups (case of phenylalanine and tryptophan), substituted arylalkyl groups (case of tyrosine), heteroalkyl groups (case of histidine). The side group may in particular be a 5-membered ring comprising said carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of said amino group and 3 additional carbon atoms, such as for proline. These α-amino acids are notably listed in Harper et al (1977) Review of Physiological Chemistry, 16th edition, Lange Medical Publications, pages 21-24. Synthetic α-amino acid means an α-amino acid that is not incorporated into a protein under the control of mRNA, such as, for example, a fluorinated α-amino acid such as fluoroalanine, trimethylsilylalanine, or an α-amino acid such as:
[0072]
[0073]
[0074]
[0075]
[0076] where ni is an integer from 1 to 6 and n2 is an integer from 1 to 12. Synthetic amino acids are also described in Williams (ed), Synthesis of Optically Active a-Amino Acids, Pergamon Press (1989); Evans et al, J. Amer. Chem. Soc. 112,4011-4030 (1990); Pu et al, J. Amer. Chem. Soc. 56, 1280-1283 (1991); on Williams et al, J. Amer. Chem. Soc., 113,9276-9286 (1991). Advantageously, compound (ii) is chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, omithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycine. According to a preferred embodiment, the amino acid(s) are α-amino acids such as glycine, alanine, lysine or polylysine, preferably the amino acid(s) are chosen from glycine and / or lysine, more preferably from glycine. Advantageously, the compound(s) (ii) are present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition T.
[0077] Composition T further comprises at least one polyol (iii).
[0078] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0079] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
[0080] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyol is chosen from diols, preferably glycols (diols whose 2 OH functions are carried by different carbon atoms).
[0081] The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane 1,3-diol and mixtures thereof.
[0082] Advantageously, compound (iii) is chosen from those having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and their mixtures, preferably from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, trimethylene glycol (1,3-propanediol), 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexylenediol, hexamethylene glycol (hexan-1,6-diol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), roctamethylene glycol (1,8-octanediol), isoprene glycol and their mixtures, more preferably from propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and their mixture.
[0083] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition T comprises at least propylene glycol.
[0084] Advantageously, the compound(s) (iii) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.
[0085] Advantageously, the propylene glycol is present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.
[0086] According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of compound(s) (i) / compound(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 2 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 6, even more preferably from 3 to 5.
[0087] According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of compound(s) (iii) / compound(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 3 to 15, more preferably from 4 to 12, even more preferably from 4 to 10.
[0088] According to a particular embodiment, the composition may further comprise water.
[0089] The water may be present in a content ranging from 30 to 99% by weight, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 55 to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 65 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.
[0090] When composition T is aqueous, it can have a pH ranging from 6 to 10, preferably from 6 to 8. Preferably, the pH is equal to 7. (Poly)carbodiimide compound
[0091] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound of particular formula (II) as indicated above.
[0092] The composition may comprise at least two distinct (poly)carbodiimide compounds, present as a mixture in the composition.
[0093] The term “(poly)carbodiimide compound” means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide groups, preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferably at least three carbodiimide groups; in particular, the number of carbodiimide groups does not exceed 200, preferably 150, more preferably 100.
[0094] The term “carbodiimide group” means a divalent linear triatomic moiety of general formula - (N=C=N) -.
[0095] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below:
[0096] in which:
[0097] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0098] - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally in interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0099] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes a whole number ranging from 1 to 3;
[0100] - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in C 1 - Cig, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
[0101] - E independently represents a group chosen from:
[0102] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-,
[0103] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0104] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0105] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0106] The term “hydrocarbon radical” means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical having from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon radical is a linear and saturated radical.
[0107] The hydrocarbon radical may comprise one or more cyclic groups.
[0108] The hydrocarbon radical may be interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), in particular chosen from O, S or N and / or substituted by one or more cation(s), anion(s), or zwitterion(s) or cationic group(s) such as ammonium, anionic group(s) such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic group(s), and / or comprising a metal ion which may be incorporated in the form of a salt.
[0109] The term "heteroatom(s)" means an oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atom, as well as halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atoms.
[0110] Preferably, X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom.
[0111] Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently selected from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.
[0112] According to a preferred embodiment, Ri and R2 are independently chosen from the following groups (i) to (iv):
[0113] (i) the compound of formula (III) following:
[0114] R7-OC(O)-C(R8)(H)-(III),
[0115] in which R7 represents a C1-C3 alkyl group, and R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C3 alkyl group, preferably R7 is a methyl and R8 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0116] (ii) the compound of formula (IV) following:
[0117] R9-[0-CH2-C(H)(Rio)]p-(IV),
[0118] wherein R9 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; preferably, R9 is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is a hydrogen atom or methyl and p is equal to 1.
[0119] (iii) the compound of formula (V) following:
[0120] (Rn)2N-CH2-C(H)(R12)- (V),
[0121] wherein Rn represents a Cr-C4 alkyl group and R12 represents a hydrogen atom or a Cr-C4 alkyl group; preferably Ru is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R12 is a hydrogen atom or methyl.
[0122] (iv) the compound of formula (VI) following:
[0123] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),
[0124] in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; preferably Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[4 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0125] Preferably, R1 and R2 independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, Ru represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0126] According to an alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are different and one of the radicals Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.
[0127] Preferably, in formula (IV), R9 is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is hydrogen or methyl and p is 1.
[0128] Preferably, in formula (VI), Rn is methyl, ethyl or butyl and RM is hydrogen or methyl and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0129] According to another alternative embodiment, R1 and R2 are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a Cr-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a Cr-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a Cr-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0130] Preferably, n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0131] Preferably, z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0132] Preferably, w is equal to 1.
[0133] Preferably, w is equal to 1, n+z denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10.
[0134] Preferably, Li is chosen from a divalent C 1 -C 10 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical. -Ci8 such as methylene, ethylene, and propylene, a C3-Cn cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, and cyclohexylene, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene, and furanylene, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.
[0135] For example, Li may be selected from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,12-dodecane diisocyanate, norbornane diisocyanate, 2,4-bis-(8-isocyanateoctyl)-1,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'-dicylclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthalene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof.
[0136] Preferably, Li is chosen from a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group and their mixtures, such as the compounds of formula (VII) below:
[0137] Preferably, L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane corresponding to the following formula (VIII):
[0138] According to another embodiment, when L1 is a C6-C14 arylene group, Li is not the m-tetramethylxylylene radical represented by the following formula (IX): . (IX).
[0139] As indicated previously, E independently represents a group chosen from:
[0140] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0141] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0142] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); and
[0143] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0144] Preferably, R3 and IC are independently chosen from a C6 - arylene radical CM such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and mixtures thereof.
[0145] More preferably, R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0146] Preferably, when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0147] Preferably, R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0148] Preferably, E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0149] More preferably, E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0150] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from alpha-methylstyryl-isocyanates of the following formula (X): (X),
[0151] wherein R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and,
[0152] n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 100.
[0153] In this embodiment, the term “alkyl group” is as defined above.
[0154] In this embodiment, the term “cycloalkyl group” is as defined above.
[0155] In this embodiment, n can denote an integer ranging from 2 to 50, preferably from 3 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 10.
[0156] According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XI): (XI), H----
[0157] wherein R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0158] “Alkyl group”, “cycloalkyl group” and “aryl group” are as defined above.
[0159] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0160] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0161] - Ri and R2, are independently chosen from dialkylaminoalcohols, al- esters hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl ethers and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, more preferably, the compound of formula (VI) as described above in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30
[0162] - n and z, when present, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0163] - Li, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent C1-C18, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical;
[0164] - A, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent CrCi8, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a heterocy- C3-C12 cycloalkylene, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical;
[0165] - E, when present, independently represents a group chosen from:
[0166] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0167] in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0168] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5, when present, is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and
[0169] - R6, when present, is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a cy radical C3-Ci2 alkylene, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0170] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0171] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0172] - Ri and R2, are independently chosen from dialkylaminoalcohols, al- esters hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl ethers and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which one hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;
[0173] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0174] - Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in CrCi8, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
[0175] - E independently represents a group chosen from:
[0176] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0177] in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0178] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and
[0179] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0180] More preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from: compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0181] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0182] - Ri and R2, are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed;
[0183] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0184] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical;
[0185] - E independently represents a group chosen from:
[0186] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0187] in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0188] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and
[0189] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0190] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0191] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0192] - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following:
[0193] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),
[0194] in which R13 represents a Cr-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a Cr-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a Cr-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
[0195] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0196] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cyclo- heptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0197] - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a radical C6-Ci4 arylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0198] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0199] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0200] - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following:
[0201] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI)
[0202] in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
[0203] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0204] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cyclo- heptylene, cyclohexylene, 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0205] - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a radical linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0206] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XII): (XII), Q
[0207] in which L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0208] Advantageously, the total content of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8%, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Coloring agent
[0209] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures.
[0210] Preferably, the composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises one or more pigments.
[0211] Preferably, the composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one pigment.
[0212] By "pigment" is meant all pigments providing color to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
[0213] The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopedia of chemical technology and in the Ullmann encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.
[0214] They can be natural, of natural origin, or not.
[0215] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.
[0216] The pigments may for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0217] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
[0218] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.
[0219] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, qui-nacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0220] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0221] As an example, we can also cite organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:
[0222] - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710);
[0223] - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680);
[0224] - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105);
[0225] - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);
[0226] - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);
[0227] - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);
[0228] - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);
[0229] - COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);
[0230] - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0231] The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
[0232] The organic pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant the dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0233] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0234] Among the colorants, mention may be made of carminic acid. Mention may also be made of the colorants known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Bine 1 (CI 42 090).
[0235] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0236] The pigment may also be a special effect pigment. Special effect pigments are understood to mean pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) which is non-uniform and changes depending on the observation conditions (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They are thus opposed to colored pigments which provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
[0237] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter.
[0238] Examples of special effect pigments include pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO 2-lake), Prestige pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3) and Colorona pearlescent pigments marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2 O3).
[0239] Mention may also be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu-antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);mother-of-pearl with a red sheen, notably marketed by the company MERCK under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); mother-of-pearl with; yellow reflections, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red mother-of-pearl with a gold reflection, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearls, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold reflection, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearls, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver reflection, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and orangey pinkish-green gold mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian Summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.
[0240] Still as an example of nacres, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0241] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are sold in particular under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0242] Finally, as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those marketed by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum may also be considered.
[0243] The special effect pigments may also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) which constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to shine.
[0244] The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.
[0245] These particles can have various shapes, in particular being platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical.
[0246] The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multi-layer structure or not and, in the case of a multi-layer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0247] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed for example of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
[0248] When the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, they may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be single-material, multi-material, organic and / or inorganic.
[0249] More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.
[0250] The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or a metallic material.
[0251] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0252] Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0253] Platelet-shaped particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.
[0254] It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0255] Examples include aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
[0256] Mention may also be made of interference effect pigments not fixed on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), interference holographic glitter (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances fluorescent in daylight or which produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0257] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic and interference effects.
[0258] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 qm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 qm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 qm.
[0259] The pigments may be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.
[0260] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group that is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures are used.
[0261] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
[0262] The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
[0263] Thus, the previously surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those which are described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention. These organic agents may be, for example, chosen from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminium salts of fatty acids, for example aluminium stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicon compounds.
[0264] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.
[0265] The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such commercially.
[0266] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.
[0267] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0268] The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.
[0269] Preferably, an organic agent covalently bound to the pigments will be used.
[0270] The surface treatment agent may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
[0271] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
[0272] - a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0273] - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0274] - a Dimethicone treatment such as Covasil 3.05 surface treatment com- marketed by LCW;
[0275] - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxy silicate treatment as the surface treatment Covasil 4.05 marketed by LCW;
[0276] - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM com surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0277] - an Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as MI com surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
[0278] - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment as the surface treatment FHC marketed by LCW;
[0279] - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment like the commercialized HS surface treatment by Miyoshi;
[0280] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as PF surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0281] - an acrylate / Dimethicone and Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate Copolymer treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0282] - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0283] - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment as the surface treatment ASC marketed by Daito;
[0284] - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0285] - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as APD surface treatment com sold by Daito;
[0286] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.
[0287] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in particulate form of sub-micron size in composition B as defined below.
[0288] By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0289] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment), according to a weight ratio, of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0290] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants. Suitable dispersing agents include:
[0291] - amino-silicones ie silicones comprising one or more amino groups such than those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers,
[0292] - silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik,
[0293] - polydimethylsiloxane silicones (PDMS) with carboxylic groups such as X- 22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.
[0294] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of amino-silicone type and are cationic.
[0295] Preferably, the pigment(s) is (are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0296] In one variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.
[0297] Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black. As an example of iron oxide, mention may be made of iron oxide sold by the company Sun Chemical under the name SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide.
[0298] Direct dye
[0299] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more direct dye(s).
[0300] By "direct dye" is meant natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber. They can be ionic, for example cationic or anionic, or non-ionic.
[0301] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
[0302] The direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called “acid” direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances. By anionic direct dyes is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azine dyes, acidic triarylmethane dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acidic natural dyes.
[0303] A titre d’exemple de colorants acides on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow; Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ;
[0304] A titre d’exemple de colorants azo anioniques pyrazolones, on peut citer : Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, Acid Yellow 17 ;
[0305] As an example of anthraquinone dyes, we can cite: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT purple No. 2; Acid Black 48;
[0306] Examples of nitrated dyes include: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; examples of dyes of formula (XXII') include: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino 5-nitro benzene sulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;
[0307] Examples of triarylmethane dyes include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0308] Examples of xanthene dyes include: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;
[0309] Examples of indolic dyes include: Acid Blue 74;
[0310] Examples of quinoline dyes include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
[0311] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes can also be used, particularly poultices or extracts based on henna.
[0312] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic or cationic direct dyes.
[0313] The coloring agent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
[0314] The pigment(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0315] The direct dye(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Acrylic polymer
[0316] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one acrylic polymer.
[0317] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) are in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of acrylic polymer(s).
[0318] Thus, preferably, composition C comprises at least one acrylic polymer in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles.
[0319] The dispersion(s) may be simple dispersions in the aqueous medium of the cosmetic composition. As a particular case of dispersions, mention may be made of latexes.
[0320] More preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) are in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.
[0321] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds called monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice and preferably at least 3 times.
[0322] By "film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on the hair, and preferably a cohesive film.
[0323] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "acrylic polymer" means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide.
[0324] The unit(s) derived from the (meth)acrylic acid monomers of the polymer may optionally be in the form of salt(s), in particular of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or organic base.
[0325] Esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates) are advan suitably chosen from alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C1 to C30 alkyl, preferably C1 to C20, better still C1 to C10, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C6 to C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2 to C6 hydroxyalkyl.
[0326] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl (meth)acrylate.
[0327] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0328] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
[0329] Particularly preferred (meth)acrylic acid esters are Alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably C1 to C30 alkyl, more preferably C1 to C20, even better C1 to C10, and even more particularly C1 to C4.
[0330] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may be fluorinated, or even perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
[0331] As amides of (meth)acrylic acid, mention may be made, for example, of (meth)acrylamides, as well as N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular C 2 to C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
[0332] The acrylic polymer according to the invention may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, advantageously a copolymer, even better a copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and (meth)acrylic acid esters.
[0333] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) according to the invention comprise one or more units derived from the following monomers:
[0334] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0335] b) C1 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably C1 to C20, even better C1 to C10, and even more particularly C1 to C4.
[0336] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles does not comprise a surfactant.
[0337] The term "surfactant" means any agent capable of modifying the surfactant tension. surface between two surfaces.
[0338] Among the acrylic polymers according to the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate such as the compound sold under the trade name LUVIMER MAE by the company BASF, or the compound Polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer sold under the trade name FIXATE SUPERHOLD POLYMER by the company LUBRIZOL, or the compound Acrylate Copolymer sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000VP3 by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO, or the compound Acrylate Copolymer sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO.
[0339] The acrylic polymer may optionally comprise one or more additional monomers, other than the (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide monomers.
[0340] As additional monomer, examples that may be mentioned are styrenic monomers, in particular styrene and alpha-methylstyrene, and preferably styrene.
[0341] In particular, the acrylic polymer may be a styrene / (meth)acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one C1 to C20, preferably C1 to C10, alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer.
[0342] The C 1 to C 10 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate.
[0343] As acrylic polymer, mention may be made of the styrene / (meth)acrylate(s) copolymers marketed under the name JONCRYL 77 by the company BASF, under the name YODOSOL GH41F by the company AKZO NOBEL and under the name SYNTRAN 5760 CG by the company INTERPOLYMER.
[0344] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles.
[0345] More preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles comprising one or more units derived from the following monomers:
[0346] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0347] b) C1 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably C1 to C20, even better C1 to C10, and even more particularly C1 to C4.
[0348] Preferably, composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one acrylic polymer as defined previously.
[0349] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles has a acrylic polymer content (or active material, or dry matter) based on the weight of the dispersion of 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably of 22 to 55% by weight and better still of 25 to 50% by weight.
[0350] Advantageously, the acrylic polymer(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0351] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particles preferably ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C Non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent
[0352] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent.
[0353] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-carboxylic agent” means an agent which does not comprise a carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COO) function.
[0354] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickening agent" means a compound which increases the viscosity of a composition into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, Haake R600 Rheometer or the like).
[0355] Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from non-carboxylic anionic polymers, more preferably from anionic polymers with sulfonic group(s).
[0356] For the purposes of the invention, the term “anionic polymer” means a polymer comprising one or more anionic or anionizable groups and not comprising a cationic or cationizable group.
[0357] Advantageously, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from anionic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer with a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form.
[0358] These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.
[0359] These polymers may be associative or not, preferably non-associative.
[0360] It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0361] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0362] By “hydrophobic group” is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0363] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may originate from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.
[0364] The ethylenically unsaturated monomers with a sulfonic group are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(CrC22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido-(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.
[0365] More preferably, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22) alkylsulfonic acids will be used, such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.
[0366] More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or totally neutralized forms will be used.
[0367] Among the copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, mention may be made of crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and partially or totally neutralized acrylamide, and mention may be made in particular of the product described in example 1 of document EP 503 853 and reference may be made to this document with regard to these polymers.
[0368] Mention may also be made of copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or its salts and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as the compound sold under the name Sepinov EMT 10 by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).
[0369] The associative AMPS polymers may in particular be chosen from statistical associative AMPS polymers modified by reaction with an n- monoalkylamine or a di-n-alkylamine in C6-C22, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen for example from (meth)acrylic acid derivatives, such as their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0370] The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from associative copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation.
[0371] Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from the sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer, marketed by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: hydroxyethylacrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).
[0372] Advantageously, the total content of the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C. Associative polymers
[0373] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one associative polymer different from the acrylic polymer and different from the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent as defined previously.
[0374] As recalled above, “associative polymers” are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0375] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0376] By “hydrophobic group” is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0377] The associative polymers can be non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric in nature.
[0378] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.
[0379] Among the associative polymers of anionic type, mention may be made of copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an unsaturated carboxylic acid ester a,p-monoethylenic and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
[0380] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation and C1-C4 alcohol.
[0381] As an example of this type of compound, mention may be made of ACULYN 22® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by the company ROHM and HAAS.
[0382] Advantageously, the associative polymer(s), different from the acrylic polymers and different from the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agents previously described, are chosen from copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
[0383] Advantageously, the total content of the associative polymer(s) different from the acrylic polymer(s) and different from the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) as defined above ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Solvents
[0384] The composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may be aqueous. The water content may range from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition C.
[0385] In addition, composition C may comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0386] As organic solvent, examples that may be mentioned are lower C 1 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols, in particular aromatic monoalcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0387] The organic solvents may be present in a total amount of between 0.01 and 60% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 50% by weight and more preferably inclusively between 0.1 and 45% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Additives
[0388] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
[0389] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers previously described, preservatives, silicones, oils, waxes other than silicones in wax form, and mixtures thereof.
[0390] Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may be in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / W / O), in the form of a cream, mousse, stick, dispersion of vesicles in particular of ionic or non-ionic lipids, two-phase or multi-phase lotion.
[0391] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate galenic form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition. Protocol
[0392] Composition T as defined above can be applied to dry or damp hair, as well as to all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0393] Preferably, a washing, rinsing, spinning and / or drying step is carried out after the application of the composition T as defined previously.
[0394] More preferably, a drying step is carried out after the application of composition T as defined previously.
[0395] The application of composition T can be carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
[0396] After applying composition T, it is possible to wait between 1 minute and 12 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 10 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 7 hours, more preferably between 1 minute and 6 hours, before applying composition C to the hair with, for example, a prior step of washing, rinsing, wringing or drying.
[0397] Preferably, the application time is between 1 minute and 5 hours, preferably between 5 minutes and 1 hour, after application of composition T and before application of composition C to the hair.
[0398] Preferably, a washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying step is carried out after the application of composition C to the hair.
[0399] More preferably, a drying step is carried out after the application of composition C to the hair.
[0400] The application of composition C to the hair can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a brush, a sponge or with the fingers.
[0401] The application of composition C to the hair is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
[0402] After applying composition C to the hair, one can wait between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferably between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before a washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying step.
[0403] After applying composition C, the hair may be left to dry or dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0404] The method according to the invention can thus comprise a step of applying heat to the hair using a heating tool.
[0405] The heat application step can be implemented using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a climazon, etc.
[0406] Preferably, the heat application step is carried out using a hair dryer.
[0407] When the method of the invention implements a step of applying heat to the hair, the step of applying heat to the hair takes place after the application of composition C to the hair.
[0408] During the step of applying heat to the hair, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, or passing the fingers through.
[0409] When the step of applying heat to the hair is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C.
[0410] When the step of applying heat to the hair is carried out using a hair straightener, the temperature is preferably between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0411] In a particular variant, the method of the invention implements a step (cl) of applying heat using a helmet, a hair dryer or a climazon, preferably a hair dryer and a step (c2) of applying heat using a straightening or curling iron, preferably a straightening iron.
[0412] Step (cl) can be carried out before step (c2).
[0413] During step (cl), also called the drying step, the hair may be dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 40°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 45°C and less than 110°C.
[0414] Preferably, if the hair is dried, it is, in addition to a heat supply, with an air flow. This air flow during drying helps improve the individualization of the sheathing.
[0415] During drying, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, passing the fingers through.
[0416] During step (c2), the passage of the straightening or curling iron, preferably the straightening iron, can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 110 to 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0417] After the heating step, a shaping step can be carried out with, for example, a hair straightener, the temperature for the shaping step can be between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0418] Preferably, the invention is a hair coloring process comprising the following steps:
[0419] i) the application to the hair of a composition T comprising (i) at least one urea compound, preferably a compound of formula (I) as defined previously, (ii) at least one amino acid and (iii) at least one polyol, preferably a glycol, as defined previously;
[0420] ii) optionally a time for leaving said composition T on the hair of 1 minute to 6 hours, preferably of 1 minute to 5 hours;
[0421] iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying said hair, preferably drying; then
[0422] iv) the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:
[0423] - at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound as described above; and
[0424] - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described above; then
[0425] v) optionally a time for leaving said composition C on the hair of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably of 1 to 20 minutes; then
[0426] vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying said hair.
[0427] Preferably, composition C further comprises at least one acrylic polymer as described previously.
[0428] Advantageously, the step of applying composition C to the hair is repeated several times.
[0429] According to a preferred embodiment, step b) consists of mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a hair coloring composition C and applying the hair coloring composition C to the hair, with:
[0430] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound such as previously defined,
[0431] composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as defined previously.
[0432] According to a preferred embodiment, composition B comprises at least one acrylic polymer as described previously.
[0433] Preferably, composition B comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described previously.
[0434] According to another preferred embodiment, step (b) consists of mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a hair coloring composition C and applying the hair coloring composition C to the hair, with:
[0435] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound such as previously defined;
[0436] - composition B comprising at least one acrylic polymer, the agent(s) colorants being present in either of compositions A and B, preferably in composition B.
[0437] Preferably, composition A is free of at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described previously and this composition does not contain acrylic polymer.
[0438] According to this embodiment, compositions A and B are preferably mixed less than 15 minutes before application to the hair, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, better still less than 5 minutes before application.
[0439] The weight ratio between composition A and composition B preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, better still from 0.5 to 2, or even from 0.6 to 1.5. In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between composition A and composition B is equal to 1.
[0440] The total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0441] The total amount of the acrylic polymer(s) preferably ranges from 0.2 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better still from 1 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B. Multi-compartment device (kit)
[0442] The present invention also relates to a device for coloring hair comprising several compartments containing:
[0443] * in a first compartment, a composition T comprising (i) at least one urea compound, preferably a compound of formula (I) as defined above, (ii) at least one amino acid and (iii) at least one polyol, preferably a glycol, as defined above, and
[0444] * in a second compartment, a composition C comprising:
[0445] (1) at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above,
[0446] (2) at least one coloring agent as defined previously.
[0447] The present invention also relates to a device for coloring hair comprising several compartments containing:
[0448] * in a first compartment, a composition T comprising (i) at least one compound of formula (I), (ii) at least one amino acid, and (iii) at least one polyol, preferably a glycol, as defined above,
[0449] * in a second compartment, a composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above,
[0450] * in a third compartment, a composition B comprising at least one agent colorant as defined above, and at least one acrylic polymer as defined above.
[0451] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES
[0452] The (poly)carbodiimide(s) of the invention are accessible by the synthesis methods known to those skilled in the art from commercial products or reagents that can be synthesized according to chemical reactions also known to those skilled in the art. Examples include the work Sciences of Synthesis - Houben - Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or the American patent US 4,284,730 or the Canadian application CA 2,509,861.
[0453] More particularly, the process for preparing the (poly)carbodiimides of the invention uses, during a first step, a diisocyanate reagent (1): O=C=N-LrN=C=O (1),
[0454] formula (1) in which Li is as defined above which reacts in the presence of a carboimidation catalyst (2) such as those described in US 4,284,730 in particular phosphorus catalysts particularly chosen from phospholene oxides and phospholene sulfoxides, diaza and oxazaphospholanes, preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen or Argon), and in particular in a polar solvent, preferably aprotic, such as THF, glyme, diglyme, 1,4-dioxane, and DMF, at a temperature between room temperature and solvent reflux, preferably around 140 °C; to lead to the carbodiimide diisocyanate compound (3): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)nN=C=O (3),
[0455] formula (3) wherein Li and n are as defined above. Halogenated benzoyl such as benzoyl chloride may be added to deactivate the catalyst.
[0456] To obtain “symmetrical” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined previously, to lead to the “symmetrical” compound according to the invention (4): [R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)]2-E (4),
[0457] formula (4) in which Rb Xb Lh n, and E are as defined previously. According to a variant to obtain compound (4) from (3) it is possible to first add 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent, then 1 eq. of Ri-XrH reagent.
[0458] To obtain “asymmetric” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH then 1 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined previously, to lead to compound (5): R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EH (5),
[0459] formula (5) in which Rb Xb Lh n, and E are as defined previously.
[0460] According to a variant for obtaining compound (5) from (3) it is possible to first add 1 eq. of reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of reagent HEH.
[0461] In a third step, compound (5) reacts with 1 eq. of compound (6) R2-X2-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (6), said compound (6) is prepared beforehand from compound (3'): O=C=N-Li-(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (3'),
[0462] formula (3') in which Li and z are as defined previously which reacts with 1 eq of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H with Lb R2, X2, and z as defined previously, to lead to the dissymmetric compound (7): Ri-XrC(O)-NH-Li -(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z-NH-C(O)-X2-R2 (7),
[0463] formula (7) in which Rb Xb Lb R2, X2, n, z and E are as defined previously.
[0464] It is also possible to react 1 molar equivalent of compound O=C=N-Li -(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (3') with 1 / w molar equivalent of HEH, then 1 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H to lead to compound (8): H-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH-C(O)-X2-R2(8),
[0465] formula (8) in which Lb R2, X2, z and E are as defined previously, and w is an integer between 1 and 3, more preferably w = 1.
[0466] This last compound (8) can then react with 1 eq of compound (4'): Ri-Xi-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)nN=C=O (4'), (said compound (4') may be synthesized by reaction of 0.5 eq. of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH with 1 equivalent of compound (3)), to yield the (poly)carbodiimide of the invention (9):
[0467] R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH C(O)-X2-R2 (9),
[0468] formula (9) in which Lb Rb Xb R2, X2, n, z, w, and E are as defined previously.
[0469] The (poly)carbodiimide compounds as well as all the reaction intermediates and reagents can be purified with conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and water-immiscible organic solvent, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration, and / or chromatography.
[0470] Example 1: Process for the synthesis of the compound (poly)carbodiimide
[0471] In a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with a thermometer, a stirrer and a reflux tube, 50 g of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate and 0.5 g of 4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-l-phenyl-lH-phosphole 1-oxide were introduced with stirring.
[0472] The reaction medium was heated to 140°C under nitrogen for 4 hours, monitoring the reaction by infrared spectroscopy through the absorption of the isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm1, then cooled to 120°C.
[0473] A mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol is introduced into the reaction medium with stirring. The temperature of 120°C is maintained until the isocyanate functions have completely disappeared, monitored by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm1, then cooled to room temperature.
[0474] After cooling to room temperature, the reaction medium is poured dropwise with vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85 g of distilled water to yield the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid. Example 2
[0475] Compositions T1 to T3 as described in Table 1 below were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material / 100g, unless otherwise stated.
[0476] [Tables 1] Compositions Tl T2 T3 L-Glycine 1 3 2.5 Urea 5 12 9 Propylene glycol 10 7 9 1,3-butylene glycol - 7 9 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0477] Compositions A, B1 and B2 as described below in Tables 2, 3 and 4 were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g, unless otherwise stated.
[0478] [Tables2] Composition A Polycarbodiimide (1) 17.5 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (2) 3 Ethanol 20 Water qsp 100
[0479] (1) synthesized according to the synthesis method described in example 1 (at 40% material active in water),
[0480] (2) sold by the company SEPPIC under the name SEPINOV EMT10 (at 90% of active ingredient).
[0481] [Tables3] Composition B1 Acrylates copolymer (3) 29.2 Red iron oxide (CI 77491) 12 Divinyldimethicone / dimethicone copolymer (and) C12-13 Pareth-3 (and) Ci2-b Pareth-23(4) 10.2 Bis-Hydroxy / Methoxy / Methyl Amodimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Trideceth-10 8.8 Acrylates / Steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (5) 2.2 Preservative(s) qs Water qsp 100
[0482] [Tables4] Composition B2 Acrylates copolymer (3) 29.2 Red iron oxide (CI 77492) 2.7 IRON OXIDES (and) MICA / CI 77491 (and) MICA 9.3 Divinyldimethicone / dimethicone copolymer (and) C12-13 Pareth-3 (and) Ci2-b Pareth-23(4) 10.2 Bis-Hydroxy / Methoxy / Methyl Amodimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Trideceth-10 8.8 Acrylates / Steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (5) 2.2 Preservative(s) qs Water qsp 100
[0483] (3) Acrylic polymer sold by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the name commercial mination DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient),
[0484] (4) sold by the company DOW CORNING under the name DOW CORNING HMW 2220 NON-IONIC EMULSION (Divinyldimethicone / dimethicone block copolymer in aqueous emulsion) (60% active ingredient),
[0485] (5) sold by the company ROHM and HAAS under the trade name ACULYN 22® (associative polymer terpolymer methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate at 30% active ingredient).
[0486] Composition A was then mixed with composition B1, respectively B2, at a mass ratio of 50 / 50 to obtain a composition C1 (A+B1) according to the invention and a composition C2 (A + B2) according to the invention. Protocol
[0487] Compositions T1 or T2 or T3, respectively, were first applied to strands of 90% natural white hair or to a moderately sensitized strand of hair (SA 20). Each of these compositions was applied to strands of hair, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of strand. After a setting time of 5 min, the strands of hair were dried with a hair dryer.
[0488] Compositions C1 or C2, respectively and as the case may be, were then applied to the locks previously treated with composition T1 or T2 or T3, at a rate of 0.8 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks of hair were then untangled and dried with a hair dryer.
[0489] The wicks implementing the compositions T1 or T2 or T3, then the com positions C1 or C2, are therefore coloring processes according to the invention. In the following, they are called processes P1, P2, P3, respectively.
[0490] Process 4 (P4) is a comparative coloring process without application of a composition T. Only compositions C1 or C2 were applied to locks of 90% natural white hair, at a rate of 0.8 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks of hair were then untangled and dried with a hair dryer.
[0491] The methods implemented are summarized in Table 5 below:
[0492] [Tables5] Processes PI (inv.) P2 (inv.) P3 (inv.) P4 (comp.) Application of compositions Tl + Cl or C2 T2 + Cl or C2 T3 + Cl or C2 Cl or C2
[0493] The different strands of treated hair were then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the coloring obtained from the shampoos.
[0494] Once the tests of several shampoos are carried out, the locks of hair are combed and dried with a hair dryer. Results
[0495] The color persistence of the strands was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0496] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the color intensity, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0497] The persistence of the color is evaluated by the color difference AE between the colored strands before shampooing, then after having undergone 5 shampoos. The lower the AE value, the more the color persists after shampooing.
[0498] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation:
[0499] In this equation, L*, a*, b* represent the values measured after coloring the hair and after having undergone shampooing, and Lo*, a0*, b0* represent the values measured after coloring the hair but before shampooing.
[0500] The same protocol was implemented on strands of 90% white natural dry hair, referred to below as BN90, and on strands of sensitized hair SA20.
[0501] The results are summarized in the tables below.
[0502] [Tables] Process s / hair type / Composition Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE P1 / BN90 / C1 (invention) 0 32.7 27.3 21.1 - 5 42.6 24.3 19.8 10.4 P4 / BN90 / C1 (comparative) 0 31.9 26.2 20.1 - 5 47.1 13.5 13.5 20.9
[0503] [Tables?] Process s / Hair type / C2 Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE P2 / SA20 (invention) / C2 0 32.3 28.8 23.1 - 5 34.1 28.5 23.7 1.7 P4 / SA20 0 32.1 28.1 23.1 - (comparative) / C2 5 41.8 21.3 23.6 11.5
[0504] [Tables8] Processes / Hair types Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE P3 / SA20 (invention) / C2 0 32.2 28.9 23.3 - 5 34.9 28.5 23.9 2.4 P4 / SA20 (comparative) / C2 0 32.1 28.1 23.1 - 5 41.8 21.3 23.6 11.5
[0505] The locks of hair treated with the methods according to the invention and washed with five shampoos have lower AE values than those of the locks of hair treated with the comparative method and washed with five shampoos. The same improvement is observed on natural hair and on damaged hair.
[0506] Thus, the colored coating obtained with the methods according to the invention has improved persistence to shampooing.
Claims
Claims
1. A method of coloring hair comprising: (a) the application to the hair of a composition T comprising: (i) at least one urea compound; (ii) at least one amino acid; and (iii) at least one polyol; followed of a step (b) of applying to the hair a hair coloring composition C comprising: - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II): HAS, (II), in which: - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - R1 and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; - Li independently represents a divalent C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-, in which R3 and R4 independently represent a hy radical divalent carbon possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures; - optionally at least one acrylic polymer.
2. A coloring process according to claim 1, in which the urea compound (i) is chosen from those of formula (I), their salts and their hydrates: O (I), NN II R4 R2 in which: ; - RI, R2, R3, R4 represent, independently: - a hydrogen atom or - a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic lower C1-C5 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical having 5 to 8 members; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, (C1-C4)alkyl, (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)amino, preferably dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide; it being understood that: - when RB R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 may denote a carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl radical such as acetyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radical - when RI and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 can represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 an acetyl radical; - when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a 5 or 6-membered ring such as piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide rings; - RI and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, an imidazole ring.
3. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound (i) is chosen from urea, methylurea, propylurea, n-butylurea, sec-butylurea, isobutylurea, tert-butylurea, hydroxyethylurea, trimethylurea, tetramethylurea and mixtures thereof, preferably from urea.
4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) (i) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 16% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.
5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound (ii) is chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and mixtures thereof, preferably alpha-amino acids, preferably chosen from glycine and / or lysine.
6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) (ii) are present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 0.75 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.
7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol (iii) is chosen from diols, preferably glycols.
8. A process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the polyols (iii) are chosen from those having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, preferably from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexylenediol, hexamethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, octamethylene glycol, isoprene glycol and mixtures thereof, more preferably among propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol(s) (iii) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.
10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently chosen from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - L1 is chosen from a divalent C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;in which R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is selected from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is selected from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.;
11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical; - E independently represents a group chosen from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cyclo- heptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, and - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and - E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (XII) below: (XII), in which Li is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of coloring agent(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
17. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that step (b) consists of mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a hair coloring composition C and applying the composition of hair coloring C on hair, with: - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 10 to 14; - composition B comprising at least one acrylic polymer, the coloring agent(s) being present in one or other of compositions A and B, preferably in composition B.
18. Device for coloring hair comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition T comprising at least one urea compound (i) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, at least one amino acid (ii) as defined in any one of claims 1 and 5 to 6, and at least one polyol (iii) as defined in any one of claims 1 and 7 to 9, - in a second compartment, a composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 10 to 14, - in a third compartment, a composition B comprising at least one coloring agent as defined in claim 1 and at least one acrylic polymer.
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