Compositions with inorganic UV filters and a nitrogen compound

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least (i) a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) in which represents a single or double bond, R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NRxRy group, a halogen, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), Rx and Ry represent, independently one from the other, H or C1-C6 alkyl, R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H,an oxo, thioxo group, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are attached form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group, and (ii) one or more inorganic UV filters.,

Description

Title of the invention: Compositions with inorganic UV filters and a nitrogen compound FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising inorganic UV filters. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] It is known that daily exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays, even for a short period and under normal conditions, can lead to browning of the skin and / or irregular pigmentation (e.g. brown spots, uneven skin tone), but also to degradation of collagen and elastin fibers resulting in a change in the micro-relief of the skin and the appearance of signs of aging (e.g. wrinkles, etc.).

[0003] On a daily basis, applying sunscreen is an essential step both to prevent sunburn and to protect the skin from UVA / UVB rays. Many compositions intended for photoprotection (UV-A and / or UV-B) of the skin have therefore been proposed to date, comprising water-soluble and / or fat-soluble organic UV filters and / or inorganic UV filters capable of selectively absorbing UV radiation. These filters (and their quantities) are selected in particular according to the desired sun protection factor (SPF), which is defined as the ratio between the amount of energy required to produce minimal erythema on skin protected by a sunscreen and the amount of energy required to produce the same level of erythema on unprotected skin. Choosing sunscreen with the appropriate SPF also helps to optimize the beauty and durability of the tan.

[0004] But inorganic UV filters, particularly titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, tend to induce whitening in formulas or on the skin. In the case of makeup compositions, this whitening of formulas can also have an impact on darker shades; it is then difficult to maintain a high SPF while avoiding the whitening effect to achieve the desired shade. In the case of sun care products, it is also difficult to have high SPF products without a white layer on the skin upon application that can persist, which is generally unattractive and therefore not appreciated by users.

[0005] There therefore remains a need to develop new cosmetic products providing good protection thanks to the presence of inorganic UV filters, but without effect whitening of the composition (particularly for makeup products) or of the film applied to the skin (particularly for care products).

[0006] The Applicant has developed a composition meeting these expectations. It has unexpectedly demonstrated that the use of a nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, makes it possible to improve the protective effect provided by inorganic UV filters (also referred to as the 'SPF booster' effect) and consequently to reduce the content of inorganic UV filters and thus reduce the whitening of the compositions or of the film applied to the skin. Statement of the invention

[0007] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic composition for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0008] (i) a nitrogen compound of formula (I)

[0009] in which < represents a single or double bond,

[0010] R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0011] R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, NRxRy, a halogen, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0012] Rx and Ry represent, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl,

[0013] R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0014] or

[0015] R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group, and

[0016] (ii) one or more inorganic UV filters.

[0017] The use of a nitrogen compound of formula (I) such as guanine, in combination with inorganic UV filters thus makes it possible to reduce the quantity of inorganic UV filters in the formula while maintaining a comparable SPF. In addition, since guanine is less white than titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, its presence induces less of a whitening effect on the formula or the skin. Finally, and unlike conventional inorganic UV filters, guanine appears to be easily biodegradable and non-bioaccumulative, with less impact on the environment.

[0018] Thus the combination according to the invention of a compound of formula (I) such as guanine with inorganic UV filters makes it possible to have good sun protection without impacting the color and / or coverage properties of the composition linked to the whitening effect of the inorganic UV filters: the combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain all shade ranges in foundations, including dark shades, and for care products and sun products, it makes it possible to obtain acceptable coverage, without a whitening effect of the formula or the film applied to the skin.

[0019] According to a particular embodiment, the nitrogen compound of formula (I) is guanine.

[0020] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care process and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application to said skin and / or said lips of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0021] Another subject of the invention is the use of a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) as defined in the invention, preferably guanine, in a composition comprising one or more inorganic UV filters, as an agent for improving (also called 'boosting') the protection of keratin materials against UV radiation and / or reducing the whitening of said composition containing inorganic UV filters and / or the whitening of the skin upon application of said composition.

[0022] The invention also relates to a composition comprising a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) as defined according to the invention and one or more inorganic UV filters, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and / or lips. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] A first object of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least

[0024] (i) a nitrogen compound of formula (I)

[0025] in which < < • represents a single or double bond,

[0026] R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0027] R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, NRxRy, a halogen, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0028] Rx and Ry represent, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl,

[0029] R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0030] or

[0031] R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group, and

[0032] (ii) one or more inorganic UV filters.

[0033] By "cosmetic composition" is meant any composition for cosmetic purposes, i.e. aesthetic purposes, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0034] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0035] By "keratin materials" according to the invention, we mean the skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly the human skin and / or lips. In particular, this will be the skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and the lips. The keratin materials in the context of the invention are healthy, that is to say not presenting any troubles or disorders which would be part of a pathological state ("non-healthy" subjects, suffering from a pathology). We will speak indifferently of healthy skin and / or lips or skin and / or lips in the remainder of the description. Nitrogen compound of formula (I)

[0036] The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one nitrogenous compound of formula (I)

[0037] in which represents a single or double bond,

[0038] R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0039] R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, NRxRy, a halogen, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0040] Rx and Ry represent, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl,

[0041] R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl),

[0042] or

[0043] R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group.

[0044] It is understood that in the compound of formula (I), ■represents a single or a double bond such that each atom of the ring is neutral. In other words, each nitrogen atom of the ring has a valence of 3 and each carbon atom of the ring has a valence of 4.

[0045] In some embodiments, R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H and a C1-C6 alkyl group, especially an alkyl.

[0046] In some embodiments, R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NRxRy group and a C1-C6 alkyl group, especially an alkyl. Preferably, R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo and NH2 group. Typically, at least one of R2 and R4 represents an oxo or thioxo group. Preferably, R4 represents an oxo or thioxo group, especially an oxo group.

[0047] In some embodiments, R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group and a C1-C6 alkyl group, especially a methyl group.

[0048] In other embodiments, R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded form an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular an optionally substituted phenyl, or an optionally substituted imidazole group. Preferably, the aryl group, in particular phenyl, or imidazole is optionally substituted by one or more, preferably 1 to 2, substituents selected from the group consisting of a C1-C6 alkyl group, OH and O-C1-C6 alkyl group, for example a methoxy group.

[0049] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a compound of formula (I) corresponding to the following formula (IA):

[0050] in which

[0051] R7 is selected from H, C1-C6 alkyl, oxo, OH, thioxo, SH and O-C1-C6 alkyl, and R1 to R4 are as defined above, and

[0052]

[0053]

[0054]

[0055] R8 and R9 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl). R7 is notably selected from H and an oxo group. Preferably, in (IA), R1 and R3 are independently absent or represent H, R2 is selected from H, an oxo group and NH2, R4 is an oxo group and R7 is selected from H and an oxo group In a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is selected from: S hypùxanttisù® "NH an add thymine thiébarb&ns acid O

[0056] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a compound of formula (I) chosen from the following compounds of formula (IA): thioguanine uric acid hypoxanthine theophylline

[0057] preferably xanthine, hypoxanthine, uric acid and guanine, more preferably guanine.

[0058] Preferably, in the compound of formula (IA), R1 is absent, R2 is an NH2 group, R3 is H and R4 is an oxo group. In this embodiment, the compound of formula (I) corresponds to the guanine of the following formula: guanine

[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “[Cx-Cy] aliphatic chain” means a saturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain comprising x to y, in particular 1 to 12, carbon atoms. According to the invention, an aliphatic chain covers substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl groups.

[0060] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “(Cx-Cy) alkyl” group means a saturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain comprising x to y, preferably x to y, carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl or hexyl groups.

[0061] By “(Cx-Cy) alkenyl” group is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, a monovalent, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least one double bond and comprising x to y carbon atoms, with x greater than or equal to 2. By way of example, mention may be made of ethenyl, propenyl, allyl, butenyl, pentenyl, or hexenyl groups.

[0062] By “(Cx-Cy) alkynyl” group is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, a monovalent, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least one triple bond and comprising x to y carbon atoms, with x greater than or equal to 2. By way of example, mention may be made of ethynyl, propynyl, butynyl, pentynyl, or hexynyl groups.

[0063] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “halogen atom” or “halogen” means fluorine, chlorine, bromine and iodine atoms.

[0064] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aryl" means an aromatic hydrocarbon group, preferably comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and comprising one or more fused rings, such as, for example, a phenyl or naphthyl group. Advantageously, this is phenyl.

[0065] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "heteroaryl" or "heteroaromatic" means an aromatic group comprising 5 to 10 cyclic atoms including one or more heteroatoms, advantageously 1 to 4 and even more advantageously 1 or 2, such as, for example, sulfur, nitrogen or oxygen atoms, the other cyclic atoms being carbon atoms. Examples of heteroaryl groups are furyl, thienyl, pyrrolyl, pyridinyl, imidazolyl, triazolyl, tetrazolyl, oxazolyl, isoxazolyl, thiazolyl, isothiazolyl, pyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, thiadiazolyl, pyridazinyl, pyrimidinyl, pyrazinyl, triazinyl, quinolyl, isoquinolyl, quinoxalyl or indyl.

[0066] By "optionally substituted" is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, that the group in question is optionally substituted by one or more, preferably 1 to 4 and in particular 1 or 2, substituents chosen from the group consisting of a halogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, OH, oxo, aryl, N3, CN, NO2, aralkyl, NRaRb, CORC, CO2Rd, CONReRf, and ORS, in which Ra to Rs represents, independently of one another, H, C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 haloalkyl or aryl, preferably H or C1-C6 alkyl. Preferably, the substituent is selected from a C1-C6 alkyl group, an oxo group or NRaRb.

[0067] According to a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (Ia) is guanine Q H

[0068] Guanine (CI 75170) is generally in the form of a white to light yellow powder. It has a refractive index close to 1.8, lower than the refractive index of titanium dioxide TiO2 (2.2) and zinc oxide ZnO (2.0), thus making it possible to reduce the opacity and the whitening effect provided by the inorganic UV filters with which it is associated in the compositions of the invention.

[0069] The Applicant has thus shown in the examples below that comparable protection in terms of SPF is maintained by halving the quantity of TiO2 required, replaced by a material with a much lower refractive index. In addition, guanine is a biodegradable material, with less impact on the environment.

[0070] The content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), preferably guanine, in the composition of the invention, will range in particular from 0.5 to 20%, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] Thus for a care composition, in particular sun protection, the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Thus for a makeup composition, in particular a foundation composition, the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, will generally range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] The composition of the invention further comprises one or more inorganic UV filters. Inorganic UV filters

[0074] The inorganic UV filters used in the present invention are metal oxide pigments.

[0075] In particular, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.1 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.1 and 0.3 pm, or even 0.1 to 0.2 pm.

[0076] They are notably chosen from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or their mixtures.

[0077] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the inorganic UV filters are chosen from the group consisting of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and their mixture.

[0078] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least titanium dioxide.

[0079] Preferably, the titanium dioxide and zinc oxide particles used in the present invention are not nanometric particles, i.e. they are not a substance as defined in Article 3 of Regulation (EC) No. 1907 / 2006, intentionally manufactured at the nanometric scale, containing particles, unbound or in the form of an aggregate or in the form of an agglomerate, of which a minimum proportion of the particles (50%), in the number size distribution, have one or more external dimensions lying between 1 nm and 100 nm. Titanium dioxide (TiO2)

[0080] Titanium dioxide is generally in rutile form.

[0081] It may or may not be surface treated.

[0082] According to a particular embodiment, titanium dioxide will be used on the surface with stearic acid, and preferably treated with alumina and stearic acid.

[0083] It can be presented in powder form or in dispersion form.

[0084] In powder form, mention may be made in particular of the Solaveil SpeXtra Titanium Dioxide Powder product range from the company CRODA and in particular the Solaveil™ XTP-1 reference with the INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina. The average particle size is 179nm with more than 99% of the particles having a size less than 300nm and less than 5% of particles having a size less than 100nm. It is therefore a non-nanoparticulate TiO2. The particle size measurement is carried out using the Brookhaven X-Ray Disc Centrifuge (XRDC) technique to measure the particle size distribution of a Solaveil SpeXtra powder dispersed in C12-C14 alkylbenzoate.

[0085] According to another embodiment, dispersions of TiO2 particles in an oily dispersant are used.

[0086] We can notably cite the Solaveil SpeXtra™ Dispersions product range, in particular the following references: - Solaveil™ - Solaveil™ - Solaveil™

[0087] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, a TiO2 is used in the form of a powder treated with a lipophilic agent, such as the reference Solaveil™ XTP-1 with the INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina.

[0088] The TiO2 content in the compositions of the invention will generally range from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Zinc oxide (ZnO)

[0089] Zinc oxide particles are generally in the form of a white powder.

[0090] The average particle size

[0091] We can notably cite the commercial reference Zinc Oxide Gold Seal B from the company UNIVAR.

[0092] The ZnO content in the compositions of the invention will generally range from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] Dispersant

[0094] The metal oxide particles, in particular TiO2 and / or ZnO, are dispersed in a dispersant and / or wetting agent and ground, for example using a three-cylinder mill.

[0095] As dispersing and / or wetting agent, mention may in particular be made of fatty acids such as stearic acid or hydroxystearic acid, fatty acid triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters such as polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] We can cite in particular the commercial reference APPLECARE PDS-300 MB with INCI name: POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (and) ISOSTEARIC ACID (and) LECITHIN (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE from the company DKSH.

[0097] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one compound of formula (I), in particular guanine and titanium dioxide as inorganic FUV.

[0098] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one compound of formula (I), in particular guanine and zinc oxide as inorganic FUV.

[0099] According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as inorganic FUVs.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment of the invention and with regard to the desired SPF, the total content of inorganic UV filters ranges from 0.1% to 30%, in particular from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 1% to 30%, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the total content of inorganic UV filters ranges from 1% to 15%, preferably 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] For care compositions and in particular sun compositions, an SPF ranging from 10 to 50, in particular from 10 to 30, and preferably 15 to 30, will advantageously be sought.

[0102] For makeup compositions, such as foundations, an SPF ranging from 5 to 15 will advantageously be sought.

[0103] According to a particular mode, the sun protection factor (SPF) is determined in vitro by a protocol based on the method described in the publication: Validation of an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) method in blinded ring-testing. Pissavini, M., et al.. (2018), Int J Cosmet Sci, 40: 263-268. (https: / / doi.org / 10.llll / ics.12459).

[0104] As described in the examples below, each formula is applied to 3 plates of PMMA HD6 (HelioScreen) and 3 plates of PMMA SB6 (HelioScreen), at a rate of 1.3 and 1.2 mg / cm2 respectively. The spreading is carried out using the HD-SpreadMaster robot (HelioScreen; the application probe being covered with a nitrile finger cot pre-saturated with product).

[0105] In order to measure a blank spectrum, one plate of each type was prepared with 15 μL of petroleum jelly. Absorbance measurements were carried out using an OL756 spectroradiometer (OPTRONICS LABORATORIES). The in vitro SPF was then calculated using the following formula: 400 IL(Â)nz)d / . SPF in vitro ■■■■ ——™-------------- f EUn(2)lÛ--A^

[0106] in which

[0107] E(X) = erythemal action spectrum described by the CIE

[0108] K / .) = Global spectral irradiance at 40°N, midday, midsummer;

[0109] dX = No measurement (Inm) InitiaLl(x) —

[0110] with [YES] CHD6 = 0.225

[0112] CSB6 = 0.800

[0113] A person skilled in the art will accordingly adjust the respective contents of inorganic FUV (TiO2 and / or ZnO) and of nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, to achieve this SPF protection performance while reducing the white appearance of the composition or film applied to the skin (for care compositions) and the impact on shade variations (for makeup compositions).

[0114] In the case of a binary association (1 inorganic FUV and 1 nitrogen compound of formula (I) such as guanine), it will be possible to advantageously use an inorganic FUV: nitrogen compound of formula (I) ratio ranging from 2:1 to 1:2, preferably 1:1.

[0115] If it is a sunscreen composition with a desired high SPF, the composition will include at least TiO2 as inorganic FUV.

[0116] In the case of a ternary association (2 inorganic FUVs and 1 nitrogen compound of formula (I) such as guanine), it will be possible to advantageously use a ratio of inorganic FUV 1: inorganic FUV 2: nitrogen compound of formula (I) ranging from 2:2:1 to 1:1:2, preferably 1:1:1.

[0117] Thus for a care composition, in particular sun protection, the total content of inorganic FUVs will generally range from 10 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] And the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] Thus for a makeup composition, in particular a foundation, the total content of inorganic FUVs will generally range from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] And the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, will generally range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] According to a particular embodiment, the care composition or sun composition according to the invention will comprise at least: i. A nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular a guanine, in a content ranging from 1 to 10%, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and ii. One or more inorganic FUVs, preferably chosen from TiO2 and ZnO, in a total content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] Such a composition according to the invention, in particular when it contains at least TiO2 as inorganic FUV, will generally have an SPF ranging from 10 to 30 and preferably from 15 to 30.

[0123] According to a particular embodiment, the makeup composition according to the invention will comprise at least: i. A nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular a guanine, in a content ranging from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and ii. One or more inorganic FUVs, preferably chosen from TiO2 and ZnO, in a total content ranging from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] Such a composition according to the invention will generally have an SPF ranging from 5 to 15. Oily phase

[0125] The composition of the invention comprises an oily phase.

[0126] The term “oily phase” means an oil or a mixture of oils miscible with each other.

[0127] By “oil” is meant a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0128] The oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0129] According to the invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0130] By “silicone oil” is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0131] Preferably, hydrocarbon oils will be used.

[0132] Mention may in particular be made of linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, synthetic C10-C40 esters, fatty alcohols C12-C26, higher fatty acids C[2-C22, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, in particular:

[0134] C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®,

[0135] linear alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in

[0136] - C9-C17, C10-C14, Cl 1-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Créations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0137] - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0138] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, and

[0139] - C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15,

[0140] and their mixtures.

[0141] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one mixture of alkanes chosen from a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, a mixture of C15-C19 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0142] According to another particular embodiment, the composition will comprise at least one ester oil.

[0143] Among the “ester oils” (polar), we can notably cite:

[0144] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, propyl gallate; glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0145] - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0146] - synthetic esters such as oils of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri+R2 is >16, such as for example isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

[0147] - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;

[0148] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0149] - esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids;

[0150] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one acid triglyceride(s) carboxylic acid(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0151] and mixtures thereof.

[0152] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one mixture of alkanes chosen from C9-C12 or C15-C19 mixtures and an ester oil.

[0153] The following references may be cited in particular: VEGELIGHT 1214 LC D with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE and COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE from the company BIOSYNTHIS, CETIOL C 5C MB with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE and TOCOPHEROL from BASF,

[0154] and preferably their mixture.

[0155] The oily phase of the composition according to the invention will generally represent from 20 to 55% by weight, preferably from 30 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Aqueous phase

[0156] The composition of the invention generally also comprises an aqueous phase.

[0157] The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0158] According to the invention, the term 'water-soluble solvent' means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). In particular, mention may be made of:

[0159] - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;

[0160] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols;

[0161] - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylenes glycols, and their mixtures,

[0162] and mixtures thereof.

[0163] It may also comprise hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0164] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention will generally represent from 45 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and preferably from 55 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0165] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will further comprise one or more additional ingredients chosen from glycols, C2-C5 monoalcohols, oils, fatty esters, fatty acids, dispersants, emulsifiers, gelling agents, film-forming agents, fillers, coloring materials, in particular pigments, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, and mixtures thereof. Coloring matters

[0166] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for tinted care compositions or makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0167] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “coloring material” means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0168] A coloring material may be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials with an optical effect, and their mixtures, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0169] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material(s) are pigments, notably chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0170] By “pigments” we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0171] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) are in particular chosen from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), nacres or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0172] Among the “mineral pigments”, we can cite, as examples, titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0173] Among the “organic pigments”, we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red n° 19; D & C red n° 9; D & C Red n° 22; D & C Red n° 21; D & C Red n° 28; D & C Yellow n° 6; D & C orange n° 4; D & C orange n° 5; D & C Red n° 27; D & C red n° 13; D & C Red n° 7; D & C Red n° 6; D & C Yellow n° 5; D & C Red n° 36; D & C Red n° 33; D & C orange n° 10; D & C yellow n° 6; D & C Red n° 30; D & C red n° 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and lakes based on cochineal carmine.

[0174] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least iron oxides.

[0175] Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oily phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; esters fats; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0176] When the composition comprises coloring materials and in particular pigments, in particular in the case of tinted care compositions or makeup compositions, their content will generally range from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. GALENIC FORMULAS

[0177] The composition is preferably intended to be applied to the skin and / or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or the body.

[0178] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a care composition, a sun composition or a makeup composition for the skin and / or lips, in particular a care composition or a foundation.

[0179] According to a first embodiment, it will be a composition for the care and / or sun protection of keratin materials, in particular of the skin of the body or face, preferably of the face.

[0180] In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0181] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a photoprotective composition, such as a sunscreen.

[0182] According to another embodiment, it will be a makeup composition for the skin of the face, in particular a foundation.

[0183] It may be presented in particular in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, a lotion, an aqueous gel, a milk, an oil, a serum, a cream, or a balm.

[0184] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0185] In the case of care compositions, in particular sun care compositions, it may in particular be a cream, a milk, an oil, a balm or a self-tanner, in particular an SPF 50 or SPF30 sun cream for the face and / or body, an SPF 50 or SPF30 sun milk for the face and / or body, an SPF 15 sun oil, an after-sun milk, an after-sun balm, a self-tanner or an after-sun oil.

[0186] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is a protective composition, to be applied before exposure to the sun.

[0187] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is a composition to be applied after exposure to the sun to enhance the tan and the tan, to improve its hold or to provide a feeling of freshness and comfort to the skin.

[0188] It can also be an oil, a balm or a lip stick.

[0189] In the case of makeup compositions, this may in particular be a foundation, a foundation base, or a lipstick. METHOD AND USES

[0190] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or lips, comprising the application to said skin and / or said lips of a composition as defined above.

[0191] The keratin materials (skin and / or lips) within the scope of the invention are healthy, that is to say not presenting any troubles or disorders which would be a pathological condition (“unhealthy” subjects, suffering from a pathology).

[0192] According to a particular embodiment, the non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to the invention aims to limit the darkening of the skin and / or improve the color and / or the homogeneity of the complexion.

[0193] According to another embodiment, the non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to the invention aims to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.

[0194] By 'prevent' is meant the act of reducing and / or slowing down the appearance of signs of skin aging and in particular the alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis linked in particular to the degradation of collagen and elastin fibers.

[0195] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is applied to the skin before and during exposure to sunlight to protect it against UV radiation.

[0196] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention is applied to the skin after exposure to sunlight to enhance the tan and the tan, to improve its hold or to provide a feeling of freshness and comfort to the skin.

[0197] The invention also relates to the use of a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) as defined above, preferably guanine, in a composition comprising one or more inorganic UV filters, as an agent for improving (also called 'boosting') the protection of keratin materials against UV radiation and / or reducing the whitening of said composition containing inorganic UV filters and / or the whitening of the skin upon application of said composition.

[0198] The Applicant has in fact shown that the use of guanine makes it possible to boost the protective effect of inorganic UVFs. This is also referred to as an 'SPF booster' or 'sunscreen activator' agent. The presence of guanine in the composition of the invention makes it possible to reduce the content of inorganic UVFs, while maintaining protection (SPF).

[0199] The examples illustrated below show that the composition according to the invention comprising a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) such as guanine, allows an increase in the SPF of at least 10%, in particular of at least 20%, in a manner preferred at least 30% compared to the same composition without said nitrogen compound of formula (I).

[0200] In other words, the association of the nitrogen compound of formula (I) such as guanine and inorganic FUV, has a synergistic effect on SPF protection.

[0201] This booster effect of the nitrogen compound of formula (I) thus makes it possible to reduce the content of inorganic FUVs in the compositions, and thus reduce the disadvantages of inorganic FUVs (non-biodegradable compounds and giving a white appearance to the composition and to the film applied to the skin, making it difficult to use inorganic FUVs in a range of dark shades for makeup compositions and unsightly the persistent white appearance of the film applied to the skin of care compositions, particularly sun care compositions).

[0202] Another subject is a composition comprising a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) as defined according to the invention and one or more inorganic UV filters, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and / or lips. In particular, the composition prevents skin photoaging.

[0203] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The % are expressed as % by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0204] Example 1: Effect of guanine in association with UV filters in foundations (SPF and tint)

[0205] Foundation compositions are prepared and illustrated in the following tables:

[0206] [Tables 1] Formulas 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Pha se Ingredients (INC I name) Control (without FU V) Control (5% TiO 2) Control (5% Zn O) Invention (2.5% Ti 02 + 2.5% guan ine) Invention (2.5% Z nO + 2.5% guan ine) Comp arative (2.5% TiO2 + 2.5% Zn O) Control (2.5% T iO2) Control (2.5% Z nO) Control (2.5% gu anine) Al EUPHORBIA CERIF ERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT and 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 BENZYL ALCOHOL (CANDELILLA RES IN) Al COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 4,2 4,2 4,2 4,2 4,2 4,2 4,2 4,2 4,2 A2 ISOAMYL LAURATE 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 A2 C9-12 ALKANE, COC O-CAPRYLATE / CAP RATE(VEGELIGHT 1 214 LC D) 5,9 5,9 5,9 5,9 5,9 5,9 7,15 7,15 7,15 A2 PARFUM 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 A2 C9-12 ALKANE, DIS TEARDIMONIUM HE CTORITE, PROPYLE NE CARBONATE (V EGELIGHT BENTON E SILK) 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 A2 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE, DISTEAR DIMONIUM HECTO RITE, PROPYLENE C ARBONATE (BENTO NE GEL CCC V MB) 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 A2 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE (GRANS URFPG-14) 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 A2 POLYGLYCERYL-2 I SOSTEARATE (S-FA CE IS-201P MB) 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 A3 CI 77499, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID, P OLYHYDROXYSTEA 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 RIC ACID (BWBO-AS GP3 MB) A3 CI 77491, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID, P OLYHYDROXYSTEA RIC ACID (BWRO-AS GP3 MB) 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 A3 CI 77492, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID, P OLYHYDROXYSTEA RIC ACID (BWYO-A SGP3 MB) 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 A3 CI 77891, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID, P OLYHYDROXYSTEA RIC ACID (BTD-ASG P3 MB) 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 A3 TITANIUM DIOXID E, STEARIC ACID, ALUMINA (SOLAV EIL XTP1-PW MB) 5 2,5 2,5 2,5 A3 POLYHYDROXYSTE ARIC ACID, CAPRY LIC / CAPRIC TRIGLY CERIDE, ISOSTEARI C ACID, LECITHIN, P OLYGLYCERYL-3 P OLYRICINOLEATE ( APPLECARE PDS-30 0 MB) 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 B1 EAU PURIFIEE Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qspl 00 Qspl 00 Qsp 10 0 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qspl 00 B1 GLYCEROL VEGET AL 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 B1 ACIDE CITRIQUE 0.02 5 0.02 5 0.02 5 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.02 5 0.02 5 0.025 B1 CITRATE DE SODIU M 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 B1 HYDROXYACETOP HENONE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 B1 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 B1 MAGNESIUM SULF ATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B2 PULLULAN 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 B3 ETHANOL 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 C CELLULOSE, STEAR OYL GLUTAMIC AC ID (CELLULOBEADS D-5-ASG3 MB) 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 A3 CI 77947 (ZINC OXI DE GOLD SEAL B) 5 2.5 2.5 2.5 A3 GUANINE 2.5 2.5 2.5

[0207] [Tableaux2] Formulas 10 11 12 13 14 Ph as e Ingredients (INCI name) Invention (TiO2 + Zn O + guanine) Invention (TiO2 > guanine) Invention (TiO2 < guanine) Invention (ZnO > guanine) Invention (ZnO < guanine) Al EUPHORBIA CE RIFERA (CANDELILLA LILAC) WAX EX TRACT and BENZYL ALCOHOL (CANDELILLA RES IN) 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 Al COCO-CAPRYLA TE / CAPRATE 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 A2 ISOAMYL LAUR ATE 5 5 5 5 5 A2 C9-12 ALKANE, COCO-CAPRYL ATE / CAPRATE ( VEGELIGHT 121 4 LC D) 5,9 5,9 5,9 5,9 5,9 A2 PARFUM 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 A2 C9-12 ALKANE, DISTEARDIMON IUM HECTORITE ,PROPYLENE C ARBONATE (VE GELIGHT BENT ONE SILK) 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 A2 COCO-CAPRYLA TE / CAPRATE, DI STEARDIMONIU M HECTORITE, P ROPYLENE CAR BONATE (BENT ONE GEL CCC V MB) 2 2 2 2 2 A2 POLYGLYCERY L-6 POLYRICINO LEATE, POLYGL YCERYL-10 DIO LEATE (GRANSU RF PG-14) 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 A2 POLYGLYCERY L-2ISOSTEARAT E (S-FACE IS-201 P MB) 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 A3 CI 77499, STEAR OYL GLUTAMIC ACID, POLYHY 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 DROXYSTEARIC ACID (BWBO-AS GP3 MB) A3 CI 77491, STEAR OYL GLUTAMIC ACID, POLYHY DROXYSTEARIC ACID (BWRO-AS GP3 MB) 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 A3 CI 77492, STEAR OYL GLUTAMIC ACID, POLYHY DROXYSTEARIC ACID (BWYO-AS GP3 MB) 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 A3 CI 77891, STEAR OYL GLUTAMIC ACID, POLYHY DROXYSTEARIC ACID (BTD-ASG P3 MB) 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 A3 TITANIUM DIO XIDE, STEARIC ACID, ALUMIN A (SOLAVEIL X TP1-PW MB) 1,66 3,75 1,25 A3 POLYHYDROXY STEARIC ACID, CAPRYLIC / CAP RIC TRIGLYCER IDE, ISOSTEARI C ACID, LECITH IN, POLYGLYCE RYL-3 POLYRIC INOLEATE (APP 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 LECARE PDS-300 MB) B1 PURIFIED WATER QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO B1 GLYCEROL VEG ETAL 5 5 5 5 5 B1 CITRIC ACID 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 B1 SO DIUM CITRATE 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 B1 HYDROXYACET OPHENONE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 B1 SODIUM BENZO ATE 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 B1 MAGNESIUM SU LFATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B2 PULLULAN 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 B3 ETHANOL 7 7 7 7 7 C CELLULOSE, ST EAROYL GLUTA MIC ACID (CELL ULOBEADS D-5-ASG3 MB) 4 4 4 4 4 A3 CI 77947 (ZINC OXIDE GOLD S EAL B) 1.67 3.75 1.25 A3 GUANINE 1.67 1.25 3.75 1.25 3.75

[0208] These compositions were prepared according to the following protocol, at room temperature, except for the candelilla resin which is heated beforehand.

[0209] The Al phase is heated to 95°C using a water bath.

[0210] The ingredients of phase A3 (pigments and TiO2, ZnO, guanine) are weighed in a cup, and well homogenized with a spatula, then ground using the three-cylinder.

[0211] Phase A4 is weighed in a cup, and well homogenized with a spatula, then ground using the three-cylinder.

[0212] The ingredients of aqueous phase B1 are weighed and we wait until all the powders are well dissolved before adding phase B2 and homogenizing under RAYNERI.

[0213] The ingredients of the fatty phase A2 are weighed, and the phase is homogenized for 5 min using an ultra-turrax.

[0214] Phase Al is added to phase A2 and the mixture is homogenized for 5 min using an ultra-turrax.

[0215] Phase A3 is then added to A1+A2 and the mixture is stirred for 10 min using a RAYNERI.

[0216] The mixture (B 1+B2) is gradually added to the phase (A1+A2+A3) under RAYNERI to form the emulsion; then B3 is added then C under RAYNERI and the whole is stirred at 950 rpm for 15 min.

[0217] The compositions were then evaluated according to different criteria (SPF and mass color). SPF in vitro

[0218] The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined in vitro by a protocol based on the method described in the publication: Validation of an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) method in blinded ring-testing. Pissavini, M., et al.. (2018), Int J Cosmet Sci, 40: 263-268. ( https: / / doi.org / 10.llll / ics.12459 ).

[0219] Each formula is applied to 3 plates of PMMA HD6 (HelioScreen) and 3 plates of PMMA SB6 (HelioScreen), at a rate of 1.3 and 1.2 mg / cm2 respectively. Spreading is carried out using the HD-SpreadMaster robot (HelioScreen; the application probe being covered with a nitrile finger cot pre-saturated with product).

[0220] In order to measure a blank spectrum, one plate of each type was prepared with 15 μL of petroleum jelly. Absorbance measurements were carried out using an OL756 spectroradiometer (OPTRONICS LABORATORIES). The in vitro SPF was then calculated using the following formula: f E(z)I(Z)dÀ SPF in vitro - ------------------ / £(Â)ï(à)1()'"a

[0221] in which

[0222] E(X) = erythemal action spectrum described by the CIE

[0223] I(X) = Global spectral irradiance at 40°N, midday, midsummer;

[0224] dX = No measurement (Inm) Initial A(z) ™ +

[0225] with

[0226] CHD6 = 0.225

[0227] CSB6 = 0.800 Mass colorimetric measurements

[0228] The formula is placed in a 0.5mm deep cup, the surface of the formula is smoothed, the cup is then placed in a support. The colorimetric measurement is immediately carried out using a MA98 multi-angle spectro-colorimeter (XRITE) placed on the support.

[0229] The measurement and operating conditions are as follows: direct geometry: light source at 45° relative to the normal, measurement angle 0° relative to the normal; source D65; observer 10°.

[0230] The colorimetric values ​​are then calculated in the CIELAB color space. The AL* lightness and AC* saturation differences are calculated between the values ​​obtained for the control formula and the different test formulas (NF EN ISO / CIE 11664-4:2019).

[0231] A positive AL* value indicates a sample that is lighter than the control, a negative AL* value indicates a sample that is darker than the control. A positive AC* value indicates that the sample is brighter than the control, a negative AC* value indicates that the sample is duller than the control.

[0232] The results are presented in the following tables:

[0233] [Tables3] Formulas 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Control (without FUV) Control (5% TiO2) Control (5% ZnO) Inventi on (2.5% TiO2 + 2.5% guanine) Inventi on (2.5% ZnO + 2.5% guanine) Comparative (2.5% Ti 02 + 2.5% ZnO) Control in (2.5% TiO2) Control in (2.5% ZnO) Control n (2.5% guani ne) SPF Ratings 11.2 + 0.6 5.6 + 0.3 9.6 + 0.2 5.8 + 0.2 7.6 + 0.0 7.7 + 0.3 4.7 + 0.3 4.6 + 0.2 AL 4.33 2.78 -1.30 -1.45 0.50 -1.03 -1.21 -0.89 AC -5.81 -1.37 1.47 5.37 3.98 3.40 7.63 7.76

[0234] These results show that the association of guanine with inorganic UV filters (TiO2 or ZnO) allows to have SPF protection close to the control, but with a reduction in the whitening of the formula and an improvement in the liveliness of the tint (AL* negative and AC* positive). The tint is less dull, grayed compared to the control The use of guanine therefore allows for more vibrant shades, across a whole range of shades and with SPF protection.

[0235] [Tables4] Formulas 10 11 12 13 14 Invention (TiO2 + Z nO + guan ine) Invention (TiO2 > gu anine) Invention (TiO2 < gu anine) Invention (ZnO > guani ne) Invention (ZnO < guani ne) SPF evaluations 7.6 + 0.6 10.1 + 0.4 8.3 + 0.3 5.7 + 0.2 6.2 + 0.2 AL -1.26 -0.97 -1.29 -1.68 -0.74 AC 2.95 1.57 2.83 5.41 5.21

[0236] These illustrative examples of the invention confirm the previous results: maintenance of SPF protection close to the control and improvement of the tint thanks to the presence of guanine.

[0237] Example 2: Effect of guanine in association with inorganic UV filters in care compositions (SPF and coverage)

[0238] [Tables5] Ph ase s Description Inv enti on (10% Guanine + 1 0% TiO 2) Inv enti on (10% guanine + 10% Z nO) Comparative (10% T iO2 + 10% Z nO) Inv enti on (6.6% guani ne + 6.6% T iO2 + 6.6% Zn O) Comparative (Zn O se ul 20%) Comparative (T iO2 only 2 0%) Comparative (guani only 2 0%) Comparative (Zn O only 10%) Comparative (T iO2 only 1 0%) Comparative (guani only 1 0%) Al DICAPRYLYL CAR BONATE, STEARAL KONIUM HECTORIT 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 E, PROPYLENE CAR BONATE, TOCOPHE ROL (COSMEDIA GEL C CMB) Al POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / P OLYHYDROXYSTE ARATE / SEBACATE, CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, PO LYGLYCERYL-3 OL EATE, DIISOSTEAR OYL POLYGLYCER YL-3 DIMER, TOCO PHEROL, HELIANT HUS ANNUUS (SUN FLOWER) SEED (ISOLAN 17 MB) 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 Al SORBITAN SESQUI OLEATE 1,60 1,60 1,60 1,60 1,60 1,60 1,60 1,60 1,60 1,60 A2 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 24,8 0 24,8 0 24,8 0 24,8 2 35,1 0 35,1 0 35,1 0 35,1 0 35,1 0 35,1 0 A2 C15-19 ALKANE 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50 A3 GUANINE 10,0 0 10,0 0 / 6,66 / / 20,0 0 / / 10,0 0 A4 TITANIUM DIOXID E, STEARIC ACID, ALUMINA (SOLAV EIL XTP1-PW MB) 10,0 0 / 10,0 0 6,66 / 20,0 0 / / 10,0 0 / A4 CI 77947 (ZINC OXI DE GOLD SEAL B) / 10,0 0 10,0 0 6,66 20,0 0 / / 10,0 0 / / A4 POLYHYDROXYST EARIC ACID, CAPR YLIC / CAPRIC TRIG LYCERIDE, ISOSTE 0,60 0,60 0,60 0,60 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 ARIC ACID, LECITH IN, POLYGLYCERY L-3 POLYRICINOLE ATE (APPLECARE P DS-300 MB) B1 PURIFIED WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 B1 HYDROXYACETOP HENONE 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 B1 CHLORPHENESIN 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 B1 GLYCEROL VEGET AL 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 B1 PROPANEDIOL 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 B2 MAGNESIUM SULF ATE 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 B3 TROMETHAMINE 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07

[0239] The compositions were prepared according to the following protocol, at room temperature, under Rayneri:

[0240] Phase A4 has moved on to the mini three-cylinder.

[0241] Phase Al is homogenized under turax then phases A2 and A3 are added in order and the mixture is homogenized under turax after each introduction until a homogeneous phase is obtained.

[0242] Phase B is prepared as follows: the water is heated to 70°C to solubilize the chlorphenesin, then cooled and then the phases are added in sequence with 5 min of stirring between each under rayneri.

[0243] Phase B is then added to phase A under a Rayneri stream, increasing the speed to 900 rpm and then leaving to stir for 15 min at 900 rpm.

[0244] The compositions were then evaluated according to different criteria: SPF according to the protocol described in example 1 and opacity (coverage) according to the following protocol. Opacity (coverage) measurement

[0245] The formula is spread on a “contrast card” type support having at least one black area and one white area. The spreading is carried out using an automatic device and a BIRD type bar, having an air gap of 30 pm.

[0246] The film is dried in a controlled manner for 2 hours at 40°C.

[0247] After drying, the measurements are carried out using a spectro-colorimeter (COLOR 17800, XRITE).

[0248] The measurement conditions are as follows: geometry with integrating sphere d / 8°, specular included.

[0249] The measurements are carried out for each sample: One measurement Yft, on the black area of ​​the card covered with cosmetic product, another measurement Yfb on the white area of ​​the card covered with cosmetic product. The ratio of the luminances Y obtained is then calculated:

[0250] O=Opacity=Yft / Yfb

[0251] Opacity can be between 0 (zero opacity) and 100 (full opacity).

[0252] For each formula, 3 measurements are carried out and the means and standard deviations obtained are calculated to express the opacity.

[0253] The results are presented below:

[0254] [Tableauxô] Invention (10% Guanine + 10% TiO2) Invention (10% Guanine + 10% ZnO) Comparative (10% TiO2 + 10% ZnO) Invention (6.6% Guanine + 6.6% TiO2 + 6.6% ZnO) Comparative (ZnO alone 20%) Comparative (TiO2 alone 20%) Comparative (guanine alone 20%) Comparative (ZnO alone 10%) Comparative (TiO2 alone 10%) Comparative (guanine alone 10%) SPF Evaluations 41.0 + 5.9 7.0 + 0.2 30.6 23.5 ± 1.2 4.9 + 0.2 >80 5.6 + 0 ,0 2.9+ / - 0.2 21.3+ / -1.0 3.3+ / - 0.1 Opacity (coverage) 40.5 + 1.0 32.7 + 0.5 39.9 + 1.1 37.8 ± 1.8 33.7 + 1.9 49.6 + 0.9 25.8 + 0.4 17.4+ / -0.4 32.7+ / -0.8 14.2+ / -0.4

[0255] These results show in particular that:

[0256] - guanine boosts the SPF of TiO2 in the guanine + TiO2 association compared to the ZnO + TiO2 association at equivalent contents (41.0 with guanine vs 30.6 with ZnO), with acceptable coverage;

[0257] - guanine boosts the SPF of ZnO (7.0 vs 4.9) while maintaining coverage, without whiten the composition.

[0258] The use of guanine in sun care compositions with high levels of inorganic UV filters therefore makes it possible to improve the SPF while maintaining acceptable coverage, without whitening the skin upon application.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: (i) a nitrogen compound of formula (I) in which represents a single or double bond, R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R2 and R4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NRxRy, a halogen, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), Rx and Ry represent, independently of each other, H or C1-C6 alkyl, R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo group, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R5 and R6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded form an optionally substituted aryl group or an imidazole group

2. optionally substituted, and (ii) one or more inorganic UV filters. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the nitrogen compound of formula (I) corresponds to the following formula (IA):

3.

4. in which R7 is selected from H, C1-C6 alkyl, oxo, OH, thioxo, SH and O-C1-C6 alkyl, and R1 to R4 are as defined above, and R8 and R9 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl). Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that in said nitrogen compound of formula (IA), R1 and R3 are independently absent or represent H, R2 is selected from H, an oxo group and NH2, R4 is an oxo group and R7 is selected from H and an oxo group. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said nitrogen compound of formula (IA) is chosen from the following compounds: thioguanine xanihm u^c âdd KUH •yw n") O" ¥ H guânihe preferably xanthine, hypoxanthine, uric acid and guanine, more preferably guanine.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the inorganic UV filter(s) are chosen from the group consisting of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and their mixture.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises at least titanium dioxide.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the total content of inorganic UV filters ranges from 0.1% to 30%, in particular from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 1% to 30%, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), preferably guanine, ranges from 0.5% to 20%, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises one or more additional ingredients chosen from glycols, C2-C5 monoalcohols, oils, fatty esters, fatty acids, dispersants, emulsifiers, gelling agents, film-forming agents, fillers, pigments, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the composition comprises a total pigment content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is a care composition, a sun composition or a makeup composition for the skin and / or lips, in particular a care composition or a foundation.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion, a lotion, an aqueous gel, a milk, an oil, a serum, a cream, or a balm, in particular a water-in-oil emulsion.

13. Use of a nitrogen compound of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, preferably guanine, in a composition comprising one or more inorganic UV filters, as an agent for reducing the whitening of said composition containing inorganic UV filters.

14. A composition comprising a nitrogen compound of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, and one or more inorganic UV filters, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and / or lips.