COMPOSITIONS AND PROCESSES OF KERATIN FIBERS
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024004717
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-06
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-09
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-05-06
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatments that aim to enhance or change the appearance of hair often involve harsh chemical processes, leading to damage such as increased water uptake, reduced strength, and frizz, which current compositions fail to adequately address.
A synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and optionally carboxylic acids, applied to keratin fibers to balance or limit water uptake, preserve hygroscopic balance, and reduce frizz, particularly in damaged hair.
The treatment effectively minimizes hair damage by limiting water capture, preserving the hygroscopic balance, and reducing frizz, thereby improving the health and appearance of hair, even in hair previously damaged by chemical treatments.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS Technical field
[0001] The present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, to balance or limit water uptake in the keratin fibers and / or to preserve the hygroscopic balance in the keratin fibers. CONTEXT
[0002] Consumers use cosmetic compositions and processes to change or enhance the appearance of their hair, for example, by changing the color, style, and / or shape of the hair, and / or by imparting various properties to the hair, such as shine and conditioning. However, many compositions and processes for changing the appearance of hair, such as compositions and processes for permanently reshaping or changing the color of hair, involve harsh chemical treatments. In order to change the shape or color of the hair, these components begin by breaking down the natural components of the hair fibers.
[0003] It is known that, although such processes effectively reshape or alter the color of the hair, the chemical agents used inherently cause damage to the hair and negatively impact the strength, elasticity, and porosity of the hair fibers. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, repeatedly styled, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally appears unhealthy to the touch and appearance. This is due, at least in part, to increased water uptake in the hair fiber that occurs as a result of its damage. This water will then react with components of the hair, such as keratin, which can result in the production of cysteic acid and may prohibit the reformation of bonds. As such, there is a need for compositions that can minimize the negative effects of hair damage, for example, by limiting water uptake in the hair fibers.
[0004] However, it has been found that formulating compositions that minimize the negative effects of hair damage is challenging. For example, some compositions that attempt to provide a solution only coat the hair with compounds that can improve the feel and appearance of the hair; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Other compositions attempt to treat damage within the hair fiber, but to date, they have not been satisfactory.
[0005] The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is surprisingly effective in balancing or limiting water capture in hair fibers, particularly hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving, straightening, etc. ABSTRACT
[0006] The present disclosure relates to methods of treating keratin fibers, for example human hair, for example to balance or limit water uptake in the hair fibers, preserve the hygroscopic balance in the hair or reduce frizz of the hair, particularly damaged hair. The compositions comprise a synergistic combination of one or more amino acids, one or more osmolytes and optionally one or more carboxylic acids, and the methods comprise applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair.
[0007] In various embodiments, the treatment compositions that may be used comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) optionally at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. Preferably, the treatment compositions comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) water. The pH of the treatment compositions is typically less than about 7 or less than 6, for example, from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.
[0008] In some embodiments, treatment compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid selected from basic amino acids, for example, arginine, histidine, lysine, their salts, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from acidic or neutral amino acids and their salts, for example, serine.In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and / or neutral amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic and / or neutral amino acids, for example the compositions may comprise arginine. and serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids and their salts present in the composition ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0009] In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions that can be used in the methods comprise one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (particularly alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more thereof.
[0010] In various embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from the compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the treatment composition ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of total amino acid to total osmolyte that is greater than or equal to 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.
[0011] In various embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid is selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5. such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.
[0012] The solvent may comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent and, in some embodiments, comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent. Optionally, the treatment compositions comprise water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably selected from polyols, and have a total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0013] The treatment compositions which may be used in the methods according to the disclosure may optionally also include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0014] In some embodiments, treatment compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid and / or a salt thereof, (b) at least one betaine, preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and / or a salt thereof, (d) at least one solvent, and (e) optionally at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof.For example, in at least some embodiments, the treatment composition comprises arginine and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The pH of the treatment compositions is typically less than about 7, for example, from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts, e.g., arginine, serine, their salts, or combinations thereof, to the total amount of betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II) and their salts, e.g., glycine betaine, which is greater than or equal to about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, plus . more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts that is greater than about 0.5 or greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.
[0015] In preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise (a) at least one amino carboxylic acid or one of its salts, preferably selected from arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably selected from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or their salts, and (d) water.For example, the composition may comprise (a) from about 2% to about 6% arginine and / or a salt thereof, (b) from about 0.5% to about 3.5% glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or their salts, (d) water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, and (e) optionally serine, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 2% to about 10%, and wherein all amounts are by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The pH of the treatment compositions is typically less than about 7, for example, from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to glycine betaine of greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. If present, the compositions comprise serine in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1%, and the . more preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. When the compositions comprise serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of total amino acid to serine of greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 15, more preferably from about 4 to about 14, more preferably still from about 6 to about 13, and most preferably from about 8 to about 12. When the compositions comprise serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of glycine betaine to serine of greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 10, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, more preferably still from about 3.5 to about 7, and most preferably from about 4 to about 6.
[0016] The methods include applying a treatment composition according to the disclosure to keratin fibers to balance or limit water capture in the keratin fibers. The treatment composition may optionally be rinsed from the hair after an optional leave-in period. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0017] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] is a graph comparing the water uptake of two types of hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure and comparative compositions, and an untreated control strand for each type of hair.
[0018] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] is a graph comparing the frizz of two types of hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure and comparative compositions, and an untreated control strand for each type of hair, after exposure to high humidity conditions.
[0019] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] shows photographs of strands of two types of hair before and after treatment with a composition according to the disclosure, demonstrating a reduction in frizz.
[0020] [Fig 4A-4B] Figures 4A-4B show the structures of certain exemplary osmolytes that may be included in compositions according to the disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0021] The disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example to limit water capture in the hair, preserve the hygroscopic balance in the hair and / or reduce hair frizz. I. TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS
[0022] Compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure (also referred to as "treatment compositions") comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) optionally at least one acid carboxylic acid and (d) at least one solvent. The treatment compositions may optionally comprise one or more additional components. Amino acids
[0023] Treatment compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, the treatment compositions according to the disclosure may comprise one, two, or three or more amino acids. Amino acids that may be selected include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one basic amino acid.
[0024] As used herein, the term "amino acid" includes amino carboxylic acids and their salts, as well as amino sulfonic acids and their salts. As used herein, amino acids are understood to be organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) (amino carboxylic acids) and / or a sulfonic acid group (-S(=O)2-OH) (amino sulfonic acids) and an amino group (-NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intracyclic, as well as a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.
[0025] Amino carboxylic acids that may be selected include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more thereof.Examples of aminosulfonic acids include aminomethane sulfonic acid, 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoluene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, and aminohexyl benzene sulfonic acid and combinations of two or more of these.
[0026] Amino acid salts are also included in the term "amino acid", whether indicated or not. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be selected include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts.
[0027] Further, the amino acids may be of D, L, or DL configuration. In certain preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to select amino acids of L configuration, for example, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0028] In some embodiments, it is particularly advantageous to select one or more carboxylic amino acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the treatment compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I): COOH (I) H — C — N(H)P R
[0029] in which:
[0030] - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and
[0031] - when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, knowing that this ring can be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or alkyl (C1-C4); or
[0032] - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (Cl-Cl2) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (C1-C4), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
[0033] In certain embodiments when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this cycle not being substituted.
[0034] In some embodiments when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments, p is preferably 2.
[0035] In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (particularly alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least some embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of or consist of amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0036] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or its salts.In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and / or its salts.In yet other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or their salts.
[0037] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids may range from about 0.1% to about 15%, such as from about 0.1% to about 12%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5.5%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4.5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3.5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 12%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5.5%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4.5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%,from about 1.5% to about 5.5%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2.5%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about , 2% to about 12%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5.5%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4.5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3.5%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2% to about 2.5%, from about 2.5% to about 15%, from about 2.5% to about 12%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6 %, from about 2.5% to about 5.5%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4.5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3.5%, from about 2.5% to about 3%, from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 3% to about 9%, from about 3% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, from about 3% to about 5.5%, from about 3% to about 5%, from about 3% to about 4.5%, from about 3% to about 4%, from about 3% to about 3.5%, from about 3.5% to about 15%, from about 3.5% to about 12%, from about 3.5% to about 10%, from about 3.5% to about 9%, from about 3.5% to about 8%, from about 3.5% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6%, from about 3.5% to about 5.5%, from about 3.5% to about 5%, from about 3.5% to about 4.5%, from about 3.5% to about 4%, from about 4% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 12%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4% to about 9%, from about 4% to about 8%, from about 4% to about 7%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4% to about 5.5%,from about 4% to about 5%, from about 4% to about , 4.5%, from about 4.5% to about 15%, from about 4.5% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 9%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 4.5% to about 7%, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or from about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or from about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.For example, the total amount of amino acids may be about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, about 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper or lower limits. In certain preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise a total amount of basic amino acids within any of the foregoing ranges and amounts.
[0038] In a preferred embodiment, the treatment compositions comprise arginine and / or a salt thereof. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the treatment composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present, for example, arginine comprises more than about 50%, such as more than about 60%, more than about 70%, more than about 80%, more than about 90%, more than about 95%, more than about 98%, or more than about 99% of all amino acids present in the composition. In another preferred embodiment, arginine is the only basic amino acid in the treatment composition.
[0039] In various preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10%, such as from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, even more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, of about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4% or about 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any previous value as upper and lower limits.
[0040] In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise serine and / or a salt thereof. If present, the amount of serine may range from about 0.01% to about 2%, such as from about 0.01% to about 1.5%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, from about 0.01% to about 0.4%, from about 0.01% to about 0.3%, from about 0.01% to about 0.2%, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, from about 0.05% to about 2%, from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 0.5%, from about 0.05% to about 0.4%, from about 0.05% to about 0.3%, from about 0.05% to about 0.2%, from about 0.05% to about 0.1%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1% or from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.For example, in certain preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as about 0.1%, about 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0041] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select at least one basic amino acid and at least one additional amino acid selected from acidic and / or neutral amino acids. For example, in preferred embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in compositions according to the disclosure, and to select total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6.For example, the treatment composition may have a weight ratio of total basic amino acids to total serine of from about 2 to about 15, for example, from about 4 to about 14, from about 6 to about 13, from about 8 to about 12, or from about 9 to about 11. In other examples, the weight ratio of total basic amino acids to serine may be about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12. In some preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises serine and has a weight ratio of total basic amino acids to serine of from about 2. to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or from about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0042] In still other preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits. Osmolytes
[0043] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example, in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, their salts, and their derivatives, carbohydrates such as sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethyl sulfoniopropionate), and urea. For the purposes of this disclosure, "osmolytes" include amino carboxylic acid derivatives, amino sulfonic acid derivatives, and salts of the derivatives (collectively referred to herein as "amino acid derivatives"), but do not include the amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, or their salts that are described above, and do not include polyols.
[0044] The treatment compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise more than one osmolyte. While not wishing to be theoretical, it is believed that the use of osmolytes according to the disclosure allows the treated hair to preserve the hygroscopic balance and limit water capture in the fiber, thereby reducing potential damage to the hair, or restores the hygroscopic balance of already damaged hair, thereby allowing the treated hair to regain the reduced strength and / or elasticity associated with healthy hair.
[0045] In preferred embodiments, the useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) or their salts:
[0046] (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II)
[0047] in which:
[0048] - RI, R2 and R3 are independently selected from C1-C4 alkyl groups, preferably C1-C2 alkyl groups, more preferably methyl;
[0049] - A is N or S;
[0050] - m and n are independently 0 or 1;
[0051] - X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and
[0052] - Y is -COO- or -OSO3-;
[0053] provided that:
[0054] • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2;
[0055] • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (in C1-C8) saturated, linear or branched, preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl group; and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, knowing that this cycle can be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl; and
[0056] • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2.
[0057] Useful and non-limiting polyamine compounds may comprise primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. For example, polyamines that may be selected include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polyamines or polymeric polyamines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinylamine, polyetheramine, polylysine, ethylenediamine, 1,3- diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, useful polyamines are selected from putrescine, spermidine and / or spermine.
[0058] Useful and non-limiting examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Salts of betaines may also be used and are expressly included in the term "betaine" unless otherwise expressly indicated. In particularly preferred embodiments, the betaines are selected from those corresponding to formula (II). Examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in Figures 4A-4B. As shown in [Fig. 4A], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) are in the zwitterionic form, and as shown in [Fig. 4B], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X.The counterion is not limited and may be any suitable counterion, e.g., a chloride ion, a bromide ion, an iodide ion, a sulfate anion, a sulfonate anion, a methyl sulfate anion, a phosphate anion, a nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used herein, a "compound of formula (II)" expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound as well as the salt forms, whether or not specified.
[0059] As shown in Figures 4A-4B, examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as "betaines"), e.g., valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine (trimethyl glycine), histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine and / or dimethyl sulfoniopropionate. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).
[0060] In certain preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions that can be used according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more compounds of formula (II), i.e., a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising in total from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0061] In certain preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R1 = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In certain other preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R3 is methyl. In other preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated, alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino. In still other preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated, alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene. In other preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R4 and R5, which may be the same or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a saturated, linear or branched (Cl-C10) alkyl group, preferably (C1-C6) alkyl, more preferably (C1-C4) alkyl; a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono or bicyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono or bicyclic) substituted by an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH,-CONH2 ; more preferably where R4 is hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched alkyl (C1-C6), more preferably alkyl (C1-C4); optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH or -CONH2. In certain preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by a hydroxy group. In other preferred embodiments, RI = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if any) is a divalent alkyl group which may be straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.
[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by a hydroxy group.
[0063] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the treatment composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures 4A-4B. In more preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise trimethylglycine (interchangeably referred to as glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the treatment composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).
[0064] Useful and non-limiting examples of carbohydrate sugars that may be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example, pentoses and / or derivatives thereof, or hexoses and / or derivatives thereof. For example, the sugars may optionally be selected from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxy-ribose, ribulose, deoxy-ribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are selected from disaccharides, e.g., sucrose (also saccharose), maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from polysaccharides, e.g., maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more thereof.In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably selected from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0065] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the treatment composition may range from about 0.01% to about 15%, such as, for example, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2.25% to about 10%, from about 2.25% to about 9%, from about 2.25% to about 8%, from about 2.25% to about 7%, from about 2.25% to about 6%, from about 2.25% to about 5%, from about 2.25% to about 4%, from about 2.25% to about 3%,from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the treatment composition may be about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0066] In preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably from 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be from about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any previous value as upper and lower limits.
[0067] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably further from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or the glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0068] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select the amounts of amino acids and osmolytes so as to obtain a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts in the treatment composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the treatment composition that is greater than about 0.1, for example, greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts to the total amount of osmolytes may range from about 0.1 to about 10, for example, from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5.In other embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts to the total amount of osmolytes may range from greater than 1 to about 4, such as from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) in the treatment composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the treatment composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0069] In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids selected from compounds of formula (I), and a total amount of osmolytes selected from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example, from about 1 to about 4, from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1, about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4 or about 2.5, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0070] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example, from greater than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In another particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises arginine, serine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example from greater than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. Carboxylic acids
[0071] Treatment compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the treatment compositions may comprise at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that include, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-) or more acid functional groups and at least one carbon atom.
[0072] The carboxylic acids that may be used may optionally have a molecular weight of less than about 500 g / mol, less than about 400 g / mol, less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight of less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol.
[0073] Salts of carboxylic acids may also be used and are expressly included in the term "carboxylic acid" unless otherwise indicated. Salts include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; metal salts alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in certain embodiments, and in particular sodium salts.
[0074] In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or a salt thereof. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds described above. Useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acid or salt form); they can therefore comprise a single -COOH group (monoacid) or can comprise more than one -COOH group, for example two (in acid or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form) (polyacids).Useful (poly)acids also comprise at least one -OH group, such as one to three or two to three -OH groups, for example, one, two, or three -OH groups. Preferably, the (poly)acids comprise a total of 2 to 8 or 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In certain preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated carboxylic (poly)acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 3 to 6 carbon atoms, one to three -OH groups, and two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form). Unless otherwise indicated, as used herein, the term "(poly)acid" includes both monobasic and polybasic acids.
[0075] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that may be selected include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or a salt thereof.
[0076] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that may be selected include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the treatment compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0077] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or a salt thereof.
[0078] In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts.In some embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to select citric acid, lactic acid and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.
[0079] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) may range from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 1% to about 15%, such as from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5.5%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2.5%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 12%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5.5%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4.5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about . 2% to about 3.5%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2% to about 2.5%, from about 2.5% to about 15%, from about 2.5% to about 12%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5.5%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4.5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3.5%, from about 2.5% to about 3%, from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 3% to about 9%, from about 3% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, from about 3% to about 5.5%, from about 3% to about 5%, from about 3% to about 4.5%, from about 3% to about 4%, from about 3% to about 3.5%, from about 3.5% to about 15%, from about 3.5% to about 12%, from about 3.5% to about 10%, from about 3.5% to about 9%, from about 3,5% to about 8%, from about 3.5% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6%, from about 3.5% to about 5.5%, from about 3.5% to about 5%, from about 3.5% to about 4.5%, from about 3.5% to about 4%, from about 4% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 12%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4% to about 9%, from about 4% to about 8%, from about 4% to about 7%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4% to about 5.5%, from about 4% to about 5%, from about 4% to about 4.5%, from about 4.5% to about 15%, from about 4.5% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 9%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 4.5% to about 7%, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.5% to about 5%, from about 5% to about 15%, from about 5% to about 12%, from about 5% to about 10%, from about 5% to about 9%, from about 5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5% to about 6.5%,from about 5% to about 6%, from about 5% to about 5.5%, from about 5.5% to about 15%, from about 5.5% to about 12%, from about 5.5% to about 10%, from about 5.5% to about 9%, from about 5.5% to about 8%, from about 5.5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.5% to about 6%, from about 6% to about 15%, from about 6% to about 12%, from about 6% to about 10%, from about 6% to about 9%, from about 6% to about 8%, from about 6% to about 7%, or from about 6% to about 6.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0080] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, for example, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, in some preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0081] It may be advantageous in some embodiments to select amounts of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the treatment composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.1, greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5.In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, for example, from about 0.8 to about 1.5, from about 0.8 to about 1.35, or from about 0.8 to about 1.2. In certain preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.2. Solvents
[0082] Treatment compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise at least one solvent. In various embodiments, the solvent may be selected from water, non-aqueous solvents, or a combination thereof.
[0083] In preferred embodiments, the solvent includes water. In some embodiments, the treatment composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% water, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the treatment composition comprises water in an amount ranging from at least 50% by weight to about 95% by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, from about 55% to about 90%, from about 60% to about 90% by weight. weight, or from about 60% to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0084] In other embodiments, the solvent may include at least one non-aqueous solvent. Non-limiting examples of non-aqueous solvents that may be used include, for example, glycerin, C1-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, lamellar lipid materials, or combinations thereof.The non-aqueous solvent may be selected from organic solvents, for example, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
[0085] Preferably, the compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols may be selected from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12 polyols, C2-C8 polyols, or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that may be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted polyols. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols may be selected from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 triols, any of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.
[0086] As non-limiting examples, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol may be chosen, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.In some embodiments, the polyols are selected from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, . 5-hexene-1,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the polyols are selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethylisosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin, or combinations of two or more thereof.In at least some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprise(s), consist(s) essentially of, or consist(s) of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example, C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols. In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprise(s), consist(s) essentially of, or consist(s) of one or more glycols, for example, propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprise(s), consist(s) essentially of, or consist(s) of dipropylene glycol. .
[0087] If present, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents in the treatment composition may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, from about 1% to about 20%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, or from about 2% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In certain preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably selected from polyols.In some embodiments, the treatment composition comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 11%, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and optionally further wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more thereof, preferably selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more of these. Surfactants
[0088] Treatment compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure may optionally comprise at least one surfactant. For example, the treatment compositions may comprise one or more cationic surfactants, and / or amphoteric surfactants, and in some embodiments, the compositions may comprise mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.
[0089] Although the treatment compositions may optionally include one or more anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments, the compositions comprise less than about 3%, such as less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.75%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.2%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.01%, or less than about 0.001% of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants.
[0090] In at least some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the composition(s) according to the disclosure. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functionalities in the composition according to the disclosure. Non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, ceethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5),dodecyldimethylethylbenzylammonium chloride (Quatemium-14), Quatemium-22, Quaternium-26, Quatemium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium phosphate POE(10) oleyl ether, diethanolammonium phosphate POE(3) oleyl ether, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyldioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, , myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquatemium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyltrihydroxyethylpropylenediamine dihydrofluoride, sulfrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0091] If present, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, or from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In at least some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0092] In at least some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include secondary and tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives where the aliphatic radical may be straight or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium masamphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium masamphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate. ammonium, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocaminopropionate, triethanolamine cocaminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanolamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine cocoamphopropionate, triethanolamine cornamphopropionate, triethanolamine lauraminopropionate, triethanolamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanolamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanolamine cornamphopropionate, triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate,disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, laurylaminopropylglycine and lauryldiethylenediaminoglycine.
[0093] Betaine surfactants may also be used. For example, one can choose cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, cetyldimethylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethylbetaine, stearylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgamma-carboxypropylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethylbetaine, cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropylbetaine, oleylbetaine, or cocamidopropylbetaine.
[0094] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.1% at about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the treatment compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants. Fatty compounds
[0095] Optionally, the treatment compositions that may be used according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0096] In some embodiments, the treatment compositions include at least one fatty compound selected from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be amino-functionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that may be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane.For example, the composition may comprise at least one silicone selected from amodimethicone, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, or a mixture of two or more thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise a silicone oil component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
[0097] As further examples, the silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylsilicones, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenyl(methyl-diphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethyl-siloxysilicates.
[0098] In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or more, such as, for example, C8 or more, C10 or more, or C12 or more, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols can be alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0099] For example, the fatty alcohols may be selected from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or combinations thereof.
[0100] Useful and non-limiting fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include dibasic, tribasic, and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0101] In some embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be selected. For example, esters of linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids and linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10, may be used. In other embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. By way of non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate,cetyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, myristyl stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, malate, dioctyl, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be selected.In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or one fatty alcohol ester, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0102] In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of waxes that may be used include beeswax, hydrogenated olive alkyl esters, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugarcane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated palm kernel glycerides / palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, siliconyl candellila wax, china wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax;triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes and polyethylene waxes obtained by the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of two or more of any of these waxes. In certain preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise a wax component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl esters.;
[0103] In some embodiments, the treatment composition comprises one or more fatty compounds selected from oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin (e.g., lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, bancoul nut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (e.g., polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, or also linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes which are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane), mono- and / or poly-esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols (e.g., mono- and poly-esters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyol polyesters, C5-C9 esters of dipentaerythrityl, trimethylolpropane polyesters, polyesters of propylene glycol, or hydrogenated castor oil polyesters), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils, or mixtures of two or more of these.Non-limiting examples of fatty acids that may be used include optionally branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, or mixtures of two or more thereof.
[0104] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the treatment composition may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, such as from about 1% to about 20%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, or from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In certain preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one fatty compound selected from silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes, or combinations thereof, wherein the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 15%, more preferably from about 3% to about 12%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Thickening Agents
[0105] The treatment compositions that may be used according to the disclosure optionally comprise at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers and acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates copolymer, polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEL10), natural polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, related particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide and microcrystalline cellulose, celluloses such as hydroethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, cellulose derivatives such as cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, and guars such as hydroxypropyl guar.
[0106] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylates copolymer and acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer.
[0107] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01% to about 8%, such as from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the treatment composition.
[0108] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, preferably in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 3%, more preferably still from about 0.1% to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components
[0109] The treatment compositions that may be used according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.
[0110] The total amount of auxiliary components, if present, typically ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, based on the total weight of the treatment composition. For example, in some embodiments, the individual amounts of each component or the total amount of components may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the treatment composition.
[0111] Treatment compositions that may be used in methods according to the disclosure have a pH of less than or equal to about 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, the treatment compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all intermediate ranges and subranges.
[0112] The treatment compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, suitable treatment compositions may be in the form of a liquid, a gel, a gel-cream, a high, medium or low density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc. II. METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS
[0113] The disclosure relates to methods of treating keratin fibers with a treatment composition according to the disclosure in order to limit water capture in the keratin fibers, to preserve the hygroscopic balance of the keratin fibers and / or to reduce frizz of the hair. The methods also improve the elasticity of the treated hair. The methods comprise applying a treatment composition to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time ("treatment period", "resting period" or "lay-in period"), and optionally rinsing the composition from the hair.
[0114] The application period may be for a time deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the hair, such as about 30 seconds, about 1 minute, about 2 minutes, about 5 minutes, about 10 minutes, about 15 minutes, about 20 minutes, about 30 minutes, about 45 minutes, about 1 hour, about 2 hours, about 4 hours, about 6 hours, about 8 hours, about 10 hours, about 12 hours, about 16 hours, about 20 hours, about 24 hours, etc., or may vary by a period of time using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.By way of non-limiting example, the application period may range from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 4 hours, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 2 hours, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, from approximately 20 minutes to approximately 1 hour, from approximately 1 hour to approximately 12 hours, from approximately 2 hours to approximately 10 hours, from approximately 4 hours to approximately 8 hours, from approximately 8 hours to approximately 24 hours, from approximately 8 hours to approximately 12 hours, etc. For example, an application time may be overnight or until the next rinsing or shampooing of the hair according to the user's usual hygiene rules.
[0115] Although not required, methods of using the hair treatment composition according to the disclosure may also include a step of heating the hair to which the composition has been applied, for example during the resting period while the composition is on the hair. For example, a hair dryer, a hair dryer hood, etc., may be used.
[0116] At least in some embodiments, the hair that can be treated according to the disclosed methods may be hair that has been previously bleached, dyed, straightened, relaxed, etc. It will be understood that the hair that is treated according to various methods described herein may be hair that has been previously subjected to such chemical treatments and is therefore in need of treatment. Thus, the methods may occur within any time period following a chemical treatment where the benefits of limiting water capture, preserving hygroscopic balance, and / or reducing frizz are desired. For example, the methods may occur within six months following a chemical treatment such as bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, etc., such as within five months, within four months, within three months, within two months, within one month, within three weeks, within two weeks, within one week, within five days, within four days, within three days, within two days, within one day, within 12 hours, within 8 hours, within 6 hours, within 4 hours, within 2 hours, or within one hour following such treatment. The period during which it is contemplated to carry out the methods according to the disclosure is not limited.
[0117] Unexpectedly, hair treated with compositions and methods according to the disclosure exhibits less damage than hair not treated with compositions and methods according to the disclosure. The reduction in damage is particularly notable on hair damaged due to harsh chemical treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc., as well as due to repeated styling, for example with heat or styling tools. Hair repaired using compositions and methods according to the disclosure may exhibit lower elasticity and / or higher tensile strength than similarly damaged but untreated hair according to the disclosure, even when compared to hair treated with other products intended to repair hair damage.Therefore, in various embodiments, the disclosure relates to methods of improving the elasticity of hair fibers, preventing hair damage, and / or reducing or repairing hair damage, in addition to limiting water capture in hair fibers, preserving the hygroscopic balance of hair fibers, and / or reducing hair frizz.
[0118] In an exemplary embodiment, a hair treatment composition according to the disclosure may be applied to hair, for example, to limit water capture in hair fibers and / or preserve the hygroscopic balance of hair fibers and / or reduce hair frizz, to improve the general health and appearance of hair, to improve the elasticity of hair fibers, to prevent or reduce damage to hair fibers, etc., by applying a composition to wet, damp or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, then optionally drying and / or styling the hair according to the individual's habits.
[0119] In other exemplary embodiments, a hair treatment composition according to the disclosure may be applied to the hair before, during, and / or after a chemical hair treatment process. For example, such a routine may include applying a composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate treatment time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., within the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with an intervening rinsing of the hair, applying to the hair a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, coloring, straightening, relaxing, or permanent waving composition.Another such routine may include applying a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing or permanent waving composition to the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., within the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with an intervening rinsing of the hair, applying a hair treatment composition according to the disclosure to the hair. Thus, it is contemplated that the compositions according to the disclosure may be incorporated into a chemical hair treatment process.
[0120] In the present application, the use of the singular includes the plural, unless specifically indicated otherwise. The singular forms "a", "an", "the", "the" and "at least one" are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations. Similarly, the expression "one of their salts" also concerns "their salts".Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof or mixtures thereof", it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, that one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E or a salt of F may be included, or that a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.
[0121] The expression "and / or" should be understood to include both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, "amino acids and / or their salts" means "the “amino acids and their salts” as well as “amino acids or their salts”, and expressly covers cases of either.
[0122] As used herein, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example, in an aqueous solution.
[0123] As used herein, if a component is described as being present "in an amount less than or equal to" a certain amount, it is intended that such component is in fact present in the composition, i.e., is present in an amount greater than 0%.
[0124] All quantities stated herein are relative to the amount of active ingredient unless otherwise stated.
[0125] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.
[0126] In the present application, the expression "keratin fibers" and the term "hair" are used interchangeably, without this being limiting. The person skilled in the art will understand that keratin fibers include hair, such as hair growing on the scalp.
[0127] As used herein, the term "applying a composition to the hair," and variations thereof, is intended to mean contacting the hair with at least one of the compositions described herein, in any manner. It may also mean contacting the hair in an effective amount.
[0128] The term "treating the hair" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to applying the compositions described herein to the surface of the hair. The term "treating the hair" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting the hair with the compositions described herein.
[0129] As used herein, the phrases "limit water uptake," "reduce water uptake," "preserve hygroscopic balance," or the like are intended to mean that the amount of water that the treated hair uptakes from the ambient environment (e.g., atmospheric, water contact, etc.) is less than that of untreated hair according to the disclosure. The reduction in water uptake can be any amount, e.g., at least 5%, at least 10%, at least 15%, at least 20%, at least 25%, at least 30%, at least 35%, at least 40%, at least 45%, at least 50%, or more. Methods of determining an amount of water uptake in hair fibers are known. While not limiting, one such method includes thermogravimetric analysis.
[0130] As used herein, the phrases "reduce frizz," "frizz reduction," or the like are intended to mean that the amount of frizz measured for the treated hair is less than that for the untreated hair according to the disclosure. The reduction in frizz may be any amount, for example, at least 5%, at least 10%, at least 15%, at least 20%, at least 25%, at least 30%, at least 35%, at least 40%, at least 45%, at least 50%, or more. Methods for determining frizz in hair are known. Although not limiting, one such method includes backlighting to determine a ratio of hair fibers that are considered part of the hair mass (high-density measurement areas) to hair fibers that are considered frizzy or unruly hair (low-density measurement areas).
[0131] Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the compositions may include less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.01%, less than about 0.001%, or less than about 0.0001% of the specified material.As such, it is contemplated that any component described herein for use in hair treatment compositions may be present in the compositions in amounts of less than about 5%, less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.01%, less than about 0.001%, or less than about 0.0001%, and the composition will be deemed "substantially free" of such material. A composition that is "free" of a component is deemed to contain no amount of the specified component. However, it is understood that the terms "free" and "substantially free" refer to the amount of a component added to the composition, without including an amount of the component present in the composition as a minor component in a starting material.For example, a composition that is "free" of waxes may not have a wax included as an intended component, but may still contain a pigment coated with a wax, because such a wax would be considered a minor component of the pigment material and would not be expected to provide the benefits to the composition that would be expected by the inclusion of a wax per se as an intended component.
[0132] Unless otherwise expressly stated, it is not intended that any method disclosed herein be construed as requiring that its steps be performed in any specific order. Accordingly, where a method claim does not cite does not expressly provide an order to be followed by its steps or it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps are to be limited to a specific order, it is not intended to infer any particular order therefrom. EXAMPLES
[0133] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active ingredients, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] Example 1- Evaluation of water capture and frizz reduction
[0135] Treatment compositions 1A-1B (according to the disclosure) and C1-C5 (comparative) were prepared as shown in Table 1-1.
[0136] [Table 1] TABLE 1-1 IA IB Cl C2 C3 C4 C5 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Citric acid 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 WATER QS QS QS QS QS QS QS
[0138] Compositions prepared as shown in Table 1-1 were used to study water uptake and frizz of hair treated with various combinations of osmolytes (trimethylglycine), basic amino acids (arginine) and / or carboxylic acids (citric acid). Example #1A# - Water capture
[0139] Water uptake was studied to determine the water content of hair before and after treatment. Eight (8) strands of two different types of previously bleached hair (SI, S2) were used (n = 16). After standing at room temperature, 45% relative humidity for six hours, the strands were placed in a thermobalance at 100 °C. The initial weight of each sample was recorded. After 30 minutes in the thermobalance, the weight of each sample was recorded again (T0).
[0140] One strand of each hair type (SI and S2) was treated with equal amounts of one of the compositions 1A-1B or C1-C5, applying the composition to the hair and massaging to ensure even distribution. One strand for each hair type was left untreated and was used as a control (CTL).
[0141]
[0142]
[0143]
[0144]
[0145]
[0146]
[0147]
[0148] let the wicks rest again at room temperature, at 45% relative humidity for six hours. The strands were again placed in a thermobalance at 100 °C, and the weight of each strand was recorded (Tl). After 30 minutes in the thermobalance, the weight of each strand was recorded again (T2). [Fig.l] shows the results of the water capture study, where the y-axis shows the percentage of water capture for each strand, calculated using the strand weights at T0, Tl and T2. The numerical results of the study are shown in Table 1-2 below, which also provides the average of the results. The average should be reasonably representative of the water capture benefits that would be obtained by treating various hair types with any of the compositions 1A-1B or C1-C5. [Table 2] TABLE 1-2 WITNESS IA IB Cl C2 C3 C4 C5 SI 21.5 16.5 7 26.5 28 27 22 21.5 S2 27.5 10.5 4 11.5 21.5 25 13 13 Average 24.5 13.5 5.5 19 24.75 26 17.5 17.25 As shown in [Fig.l] and Table 1-2, hair treated with composition IB showed the lowest water uptake, followed by hair treated with composition IA. The decrease in water uptake obtained with compositions IA and IB is considered statistically significant. As also shown in [Fig.l] and Table 1-2, hair treated with compositions C1 and C4-C5 also showed reduced water uptake, but not to as great a degree as compositions IA and IB, and hair treated with compositions C2 and C3 did show increased water uptake compared to the control. These results are surprising, especially because the decrease in water uptake is not correlated with an additive effect of the components, but rather is considered to be the result of a previously unknown synergy between osmolytes and amino acids, and / or osmolytes, amino acids and carboxylic acids to allow hair fibers to preserve hygroscopic balance, thus minimizing water uptake and improving hair fiber elasticity. Example #lB# - Frizz The following studies were conducted to evaluate the frizz reduction provided by the compositions in Table 1-1.
[0149]
[0150]
[0151]
[0152]
[0153]
[0154]
[0155]
[0156] Eight (8) previously bleached strands of two different hair types (SI, S2) were used (n = 16). One strand of each hair type (SI and S2) was treated with equal amounts of one of the compositions 1A-1B or C1-C5, applying the composition to the hair and massaging to ensure even distribution. One strand for each hair type was left untreated and was used as a control (CTL). The strands were then allowed to sit at room temperature, 80% relative humidity for eight hours, and analyzed using the BOLERO Lite imaging system (Bossa Nova Vision). [Fig.2] shows the results of the frizz study, where the y-axis is the measured frizz area (cm2) for each strand. The numerical results of the study are shown in Table 1-3 below, which also provides the average of the results. The average should be reasonably representative of the frizz reduction that would be achieved by treating various hair types with one of the compositions 1A-1B or Cl-C5. [Table 3] TABLE 1-3 WITNESS IA IB Cl C2 C3 C4 C5 SI 48.5 18 25.5 23 31.5 40 30 27 S2 49.5 32 30.5 30 49.5 63 38 32.5 Average 49 25 28 26.5 40.5 51.5 34 29.75 As shown in [Fig.2] and Table 1-3, hair treated with composition IA had the least measured frizz, followed by hair treated with composition IB. The reduction in frizz obtained with compositions IA and IB, which is approximately half that of the control, is considered statistically significant. As also shown in [Fig.2] and Table 1-3, hair treated with compositions C1-C2 and C4-C5 has a reduced frizz value but not to such a high degree as with compositions IA and IB, and hair treated with composition C3 has an increased value compared to the control. [Fig. 3] shows photographs of the control strand SI (CTL) and the strand SI treated with composition IA, and the control strand S2 (CTL) and the strand S2 treated with composition IA, after exposure to the high humidity conditions used in this study. The photographs demonstrate the significant reduction in frizz achieved by using compositions according to the disclosure. These results are surprising, especially since the reduction in frizz is not correlated with an additive effect of the components. Example#!#- Treatment compositions
[0157] Treatment compositions 2A-2N, which may be used in methods according to the disclosure, were prepared as shown in Tables 2-1 to 2-3. Compositions 2A-2N may be used in methods according to the disclosure, and are expected to function similarly to compositions IA and IB in limiting water capture and reducing frizz of treated hair. The compositions were also found to reduce hair damage and improve the elasticity and strength of treated hair fibers. Example 2A
[0158] Compositions 2A-2G were prepared as shown in Table 2-1. The pH of each of compositions 2A-2G was about 3.5.
[0159] [Table 4] TABLE 2-1 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E 2F 2G Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric and / or lactic acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 4.1 Neutral amino acid(s) 0.5 Preservatives 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS QS QS Example 2B
[0161] The 2H-2L treatment compositions were prepared as shown in Table 2-2.
[0162] [Table 5] TABLE 2-2 2H 21 2J 2K 2L Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 Silicone oil(s) (dimethicone and / or amodimethicone) 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 1.0 Fatty alcohol(s) (stearyl alcohol and / or cetearyl alcohol) 4.5 4.5 6.0 5.0 6.0 Cetyl esters 1.0 Cationic surfactant(s) (cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and / or stearyl dimethylamine) 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.5 1.6 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.1 1.1 1.1 0.2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.8 1.0 1.5 1.5 0.4 Auxiliary component(s) (pH regulators, preservatives, vitamins, extracts) <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS Measured pH 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 4.0 Example 2C
[0164] The 2M-2N treatment compositions were prepared as shown in Table 2-3.
[0165] [Table 6] TABLE 2-3
[0166] 2M 2N Basic amino acid(s) 5.50 5.50 Thickening agent(s) 0.30 Non-ionic surfactant(s) 0.30 1.50 Amphoteric surfactant(s) 0.30 Conditioning agent(s) 0.80 Cationic surfactant(s) 2.10 3.84 Glycine betaine 2.50 2.50 Citric acid 6.00 6.00 Additives (preservatives, perfume) <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS
[0167] Compositions 2A-2N, which contained a synergistic combination of components (carboxylic acids (citric and / or lactic acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine and / or serine)), can be used in methods according to the disclosure, and are expected to function similarly to Compositions IA and IB in limiting water uptake and reducing frizz of treated hair. The compositions were also found, surprisingly, to reduce hair damage and improve the elasticity and tensile strength of treated hair fibers. The disclosed combination of osmolytes, amino acids, and preferably also including carboxylic acids, thus exhibits a previously unknown synergy for treating hair, particularly damaged hair, and minimizing water uptake and frizz.
[0168] Example 3- Additional treatment compositions
[0169] The following treatment compositions may also be prepared, and are also expected to function similarly to compositions IA and IB to limit water capture and reduce frizz of treated hair, and reduce hair damage and improve elasticity and tensile strength of treated hair fibers.
[0170] [Table 7]
[0171] [Tables3] 3A 3B 3C 3D 3E Arginine 2.0 9.8 2.5 Lysine 2.5 2.0 10 Valine betaine 2.0 4.5 2.0 1.0 4.0 Citric acid 3 2.0 9.8 Lactic acid 2.0 10 2 Serine 0.05 0.5 0.05 0.5 Fatty compounds 10 8.0 9.0 15 Cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant(s) 3.0 0.5 2.5 5.0 Additional component(s) (e.g. pH adjusters, vitamins, preservatives, extracts, thickeners) <5 <5 <5 <5 <5 Solvents (water and / or non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS
Claims
Claims
1. A method for limiting water capture in hair, preserving the hygroscopic balance in hair, or reducing hair frizz, the method comprising: applying to the hair a treatment composition comprising: a. at least one compound selected from amino acids or their salts; b. at least one osmolyte; c. optionally at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; and d. water, wherein the pH of the treatment composition is less than 7.
2. A method according to claim 1, wherein the treatment composition comprises at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, betaines or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising at least one betaine selected from compounds of formula (II) or its salts: (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II) wherein: - RI, R2 and R3 are independently selected from C1-C4 alkyl groups; - A is N or S; - m and n are independently 0 or 1; - X is a divalent C1-C6 alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and - Y is -COO- or -OSO3-;provided that: O when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently selected from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2; O when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C8) alkyl, and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl; and O when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are independently selected from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.
3. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the treatment composition comprises at least one osmolyte selected from compounds of formula (II) selected from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising glycine betaine.
4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the total amount of osmolytes present in the treatment composition ranges from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the treatment composition comprises at least one amino acid of formula (I) or one of its salts: COOH (I) H — Ç — N(H)PR in which: - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and - when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or alkyl (C1-C4); or - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C12) alkyl group, preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.^Claim 6] A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the treatment composition comprises at least one amino acid selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. ^Claim 7] A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the total amount of amino acids and their salts present in the treatment composition is from about 2% to about 15%, preferably from about 2.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 3.5% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.^Claim 8] A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the treatment composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, acid. isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.
9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts present in the treatment composition is from about 3% to about 15%, preferably from about 3% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
10. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the pH of the treatment composition is from about 2.5 to about 5.5, preferably from about 2.5 to about 5, more preferably from about 2.5 to about 4.5, and most preferably from about 3 to about 4.