HAIR COMPOSITIONS AND TREATMENT PROCESSES

Abstract

HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS AND PROCESSES The disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions and processes, for example, to enhance or reshape curls or waves. The compositions include (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, (d) at least one ester, and (e) at least one solvent. The processes include the application of the compositions to hair. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS technical field

[0001] This disclosure relates to compositions and processes for hair treatment, for example to revive curls, reshape curls or prevent, reduce and / or repair hair damage. CONTEXT

[0002] Consumers desire healthy, strong hair. However, various hair treatments, such as those designed to change or improve the appearance of hair, for example by changing the color, style, and / or shape, are known to damage hair. Furthermore, repeated styling can damage hair, for example, due to the repeated use of heat and styling tools. All of these processes can break the bonds within the hair fibers, which, if not reformed, result in hair damage.

[0003] Furthermore, curly hair presents more problems than straight hair. For example, curly hair tends to be more fragile and more prone to damage than straight hair. Thus, such hair treatments and processes tend to damage curly hair even more than straight hair.

[0004] For example, hair lightening and dyeing compositions and processes generally require the presence of a strong alkalizing agent, such as ammonia, as well as additional compounds, such as oxidizing agents. In order to change the hair color, these components must first break down the natural components of the hair fibers. Similarly, hair straightening or smoothing compositions also involve aggressive chemicals to change the shape of the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in the hair fibers.

[0005] It is known that, although such processes effectively alter the color and shape of hair, the chemical agents used inherently cause hair damage and negatively impact the strength, elasticity, and porosity of the hair fibers. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, straightened, smoothed, repeatedly styled, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally unpleasant to the touch and appearance. Moreover, damaged hair is brittle and / or exhibits increased elasticity, resulting in more frequent breakage. In naturally curly or wavy hair, this damage also tends to manifest as a loss of shape and / or Curl definition. As a result, consumers are looking for formulations and processes to prevent or minimize such damage and / or repair hair that has been damaged by these treatments and processes. Furthermore, consumers with curly or wavy hair want formulations and processes that restore and / or enhance the shape and / or definition of their curls. Consumers are also increasingly seeking formulations containing natural ingredients and free from, or substantially free from, components considered detrimental to hair, such as silicones.

[0006] However, it has proven difficult to formulate compositions that satisfactorily meet these requirements. For example, some compositions that attempt to address the problem of damage simply coat the hair with compounds that may improve its feel and appearance; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Rather than preventing or repairing hair damage, this approach merely masks the damage until the next rinse or wash. Other compositions attempt to treat the damage within the hair fiber, but to date, these have not been satisfactory.Finally, given that consumers wish to exclude certain components such as silicones, components from non-renewable sources and components that may have a negative impact on the environment, and include certain components such as those that are natural or of natural origin, finding a combination of components that effectively meets both consumer needs and wishes has been difficult.

[0007] The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is remarkably effective in preventing or minimizing hair damage and treating damaged hair, and restoring or reviving curls. Hair treated with the compositions disclosed herein shows remarkably reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity, and more visible curl shape and definition. SUMMARY

[0008] This disclosure relates to compositions and processes for treating curly or wavy hair, for example, to prevent, minimize, or repair hair damage, such as damage caused by harsh chemical compositions and processes, and to reshape curly hair and enhance curl recovery. The compositions, which may be in various dosage forms, for example, an elixir, a hair mask, a conditioner, or a deep conditioning treatment, comprise a synergistic combination of one or more amino acids, preferably one or more basic amino acids, one or more osmolytes, one or more carboxylic acids, and a or several esters, and the processes include the application of a composition as disclosed to the hair. The compositions preferably include components that are natural or of natural origin, and are preferably free or substantially free of silicone compounds, non-renewable ingredients (e.g., mineral oil and petroleum-based ingredients) and / or ingredients that have negative environmental impacts (e.g., compounds that mobilize heavy metals).

[0009] In various embodiments, the disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions, the compositions comprising: (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, (d) at least one ester, (e) optionally at least one surfactant, (f) optionally at least one fatty compound other than (d), and (g) at least one solvent. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7 or less than about 6, for example, from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.

[0010] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from basic amino acids, for example, arginine, histidine, lysine, their salts, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from acidic or neutral amino acids and their salts, for example, serine.In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and / or neutral amino acids and their salts ranges from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5%, preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 4%, more preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, and most preferably from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic, and / or neutral amino acids; for example, the compositions may include arginine and serine. In various embodiments, the total quantity of amino acids and their salts present in the composition ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, the methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of these (in particular, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more of these.

[0012] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably still from about 1.5% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of osmolytes which is greater than or equal to about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.

[0013] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one carboxylic acid selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In various embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.

[0014] The esters that can be used include branched or linear, ionic or non-ionic esters, for example mono-, di-, tri- and / or tetra-esters. In preferred embodiments, the esters are chosen from C22-C30 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters, preferably C24-C28, and optionally have a molecular weight greater than about 500 g / mol, greater than about 750 g / mol, or greater than about 1000 g / mol, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate. The total amount of esters present may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The compositions preferably comprise at least one surfactant, preferably at least one cationic surfactant. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one alkylamidoamine, for example, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine. In various embodiments, the composition comprises a total amount of surfactants ranging from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 1.5% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the compositions are free from or substantially free from behentrimonium chloride.

[0016] The compositions preferably comprise at least one fatty compound other than the esters described herein. The fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, oils such as mineral, vegetable, or animal oils, waxes, or combinations of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise ucuuba butter, lauric acid, cetearyl alcohol, and / or cetyl esters. In various embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of fatty compounds ranging from about 0.1% to about 18%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 12%, and most preferably from about 1.5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the compositions are free from or substantially free from silicones.

[0017] The solvent may comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent and, in some embodiments, comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent. Optionally, the compositions comprise water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and have a total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] In certain embodiments, the compositions further comprise at least one film-forming agent. The film-forming agent may, for example, be selected from anionic compounds or polymers, nonionic compounds or polymers, amphoteric compounds or polymers, zwitterionic compounds or polymers, cationic compounds or polymers, proteins, viscosity modifiers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyacrylate copolymers, copolymers of polymethacrylate, polyamides, polyaminoamides, polyesters, polysaccharides, polyacrylamides, starches, gums, or combinations of two or more of these. If present, the total amount of film-forming agent may range from about 0.05% to about 15%, for example, from about 0.1% to about 12%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, or may range from about 0.05% to about 5%, such as from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the film-forming agent is natural or of natural origin, such as cellulose or a derivative thereof, for example, hydroxyethylcellulose and / or cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.

[0019] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise (a) at least one amino acid and / or one of its salts, preferably at least one basic amino acid and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one amino acid derivative, preferably at least one betaine, more preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts, (d) at least one ester, (e) at least one surfactant, (f) at least one fatty compound other than (d), (g) at least one solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and (h) optionally at least one additional component selected from film-forming and / or thickening agents, preferably selected from natural or naturally derived non-ionic polymers and their derivatives.For example, in at least some embodiments, the composition includes arginine, and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example, ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12%, relative to the total weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts, for example arginine, serine, their salts, or combinations thereof, and the total amount of betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II) and their salts, for example glycine betaine, which is greater than or equal to about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids. and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts which is greater than about 0.5 or greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.

[0020] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one amino carboxylic acid or one of its salts, preferably selected from arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably selected from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid, and / or their salts, (d) water. For example, the composition may include (a) about 2% to about 6% arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) about 0.5% to about 3.5% glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid, and / or their salts, (d) at least one ester, preferably selected from C22-C30 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters, preferably C24-C28 branched esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, (e) at least one surfactant, preferably selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine,(f) at least one fatty compound other than (d), preferably comprising ucuuba butter, lauric acid, cetearyl alcohol and / or cetyl esters, (g) water and optionally at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and (h) optionally at least one film-forming and / or thickening agent, preferably selected from natural or naturally derived non-ionic polymers and their derivatives, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts is from about 2% to about 10%, and wherein all amounts are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%.and most preferably from about 4% to about 12%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and glycine betaine greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof.

[0021] In preferred embodiments, the compositions are in the form of a hair mask or a deep conditioning treatment composition comprising (a) approximately 1% to approximately 8%, such as approximately 2% to approximately 6%, of basic amino acids and / or their salts, preferably comprising arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%, such as approximately 0.5% to approximately 3.5%, of osmolytes, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II), more preferably comprising glycine betaine, (c) approximately 1% to approximately 10%, such as approximately 2.5% to approximately 7.5%, of carboxylic acids and / or their salts, (d) C22-C30 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters, preferably in C24-C28, preferably comprising pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, (e) at least one surfactant, preferably selected from cationic surfactants,for example brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and / or lauric acid, (f) at least one fatty compound other than (d), preferably comprising ucuuba butter, lauric acid, cetearyl alcohol, and / or cetyl esters, (g) water and optionally at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol such as propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and (h) optionally at least one additional component selected from film-forming agents and / or thickeners, preferably selected from natural or naturally derived non-ionic polymers and their derivatives, for example cellulose or its derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, in which all quantities are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the components of the composition are natural or naturally derived, and the composition is free from and / or substantially free from silicone compounds,of components from non-renewable sources and components that have a negative environmental impact. The pH of the composition is generally less than 7, for example ranging from approximately 2 to approximately 5, or from approximately 3 to approximately 4.

[0022] The disclosure further relates to hair treatment processes, preferably for curly or wavy hair, comprising the application of a composition as disclosed to the hair. The processes may be processes for reshaping curly hair and / or enhancing the recovery of curls or waves, and / or processes for reducing or preventing hair damage, protecting hair from damage, restoring the moisture balance of hair fibers, providing strength to hair fibers and / or improving the elasticity of hair fibers, particularly hair that has been or will be subjected to compositions or processes known to damage hair. The compositions can be left on the hair for an optional application period and, optionally, rinsed from the hair. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0023] [Fig 1A-1B] Figures IA and IB show the structures of some examples of osmolytes which may be included in compositions according to disclosure.

[0024] [Fig 2A-2B] Figures 2A to 2C show images of curly hair before and after treatment with a composition as disclosed.

[0025] [Fig 3A-3B] Figures 3A and 3B show images of previously bleached curly hair before and after treatment with a composition as disclosed. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0026] The disclosure relates to compositions and processes for treating hair, particularly curly or wavy hair, for example, to reshape curly hair and / or enhance the recovery of curls or waves, and / or to repair damaged hair, increase hair strength, and / or reduce the elasticity of hair fibers. Hair treated with the compositions and processes described herein surprisingly recovers its curls, which had been significantly diminished due to various hair treatments and processes.

[0027] I. COMPOSITIONS

[0028] The compositions according to this disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, (d) at least one ester, (e) preferably at least one surfactant, (f) preferably at least one fatty compound other than (d), and (g) at least one solvent. The compositions may optionally comprise one or more additional components, such as film-forming agents, thickening agents, preservatives, etc.

[0029] Preferably, the components of the compositions are natural or of natural origin, and from renewable sources. Amino acids

[0030] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may comprise one, two, or three amino acids. The amino acids that may be chosen include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one basic amino acid.

[0031] As used herein, the term "amino acid" includes amino carboxylic acids and their salts, as well as amino sulfonic acids and their salts. As used herein, amino acids are understood to be organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) (amino carboxylic acids) and / or sulfonic acid group (-S(=O)2 -OH) (amino sulfonic acids) and an amino group (-NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intracyclic, as well as a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.

[0032] Amino carboxylic acids that may be chosen include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more of these. Examples of aminosulfonic acids include aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more of these.

[0033] Amino acid salts are also included in the expression "amino acid," whether or not this is explicitly stated. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be chosen include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts.

[0034] Furthermore, amino acids can be of D, L or DL ​​configuration. In some preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to choose amino acids of L configuration, for example L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0035] In certain embodiments, it is particularly advantageous to choose one or more amino carboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I): ÇOOH (I) H....... C ........ R

[0036] in which:

[0037] - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and

[0038] • when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 ring links, knowing that this ring can be substituted with one or more groups chosen from a hydroxyl or an alkyl group (in C1-C4); or

[0039] • when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (in C1-C12) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (in C1-C4), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.

[0040] In certain embodiments, when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring links, this ring not being substituted.

[0041] In some embodiments, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl group (C1-C4), linear or branched, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments, p is preferably 2.

[0042] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more amino acids selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of these (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of, or are composed of, amino acids selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of these (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these.

[0043] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or its salts. In yet other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in The compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or their salts.

[0044] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids can range from about 0.1% to about 15%, such as from about 0.1% to about 12%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5.5%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4.5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3.5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 12%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5.5%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4.5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2.5% from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5.5%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1%5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 6% from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4%, from approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 7% %, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%from about 4% to about 5%, from about 4% to about 4.5%, from about 4.5% to about 15%, from about 4.5% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 9%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 4.5% to about 7%, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or from about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amino acids may be about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, or about 5.0%.of approximately 5.1%, approximately 5.2%, approximately 5.3%, approximately 5.4%, or approximately 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a total amount of basic amino acids in any of the preceding ranges and amounts.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise arginine and / or one of its salts. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present; for example, arginine comprises more than approximately 50%, such as more than approximately 60%, more than approximately 70%, more than approximately 80%, more than approximately 90%, more than approximately 95%, more than approximately 98%, or more than approximately 99% of all the amino acids present in the composition. In yet another preferred embodiment, arginine is the only basic amino acid in the composition.

[0046] In various preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10%, such as from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, even more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or it may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, or about 4.9%, approximately 5.0%, approximately 5.1%, approximately 5.2%, approximately 5.3%, approximately 5.4% or approximately 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,including all ranges and subranges using any of the previous values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0047] In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the disclosure include serine and / or one of its salts. If present, the amount of serine can range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, such as approximately 0.01% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.3%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.2%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.3%, and approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.2%. from about 0.05% to about 0.1%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1% or from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, the compositions may include serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and . most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as 0.1%, 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0048] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select at least one basic amino acid and at least one additional amino acid selected from among the acidic and / or neutral amino acids. For example, in preferred embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in the compositions according to the disclosure, and to select total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acids and the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6.For example, the composition may have a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, such as about 4 to about 14, about 6 to about 13, about 8 to about 12, or about 9 to about 11. In other examples, the weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine may be about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12. In some preferred embodiments, the composition includes serine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or approximately 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds.

[0049] In still other preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits. Osmolytes

[0050] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example, in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include aminocarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts and derivatives, carbohydrates such as sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, and methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethyl sulfoniopropionate). and urea. For the purposes of this disclosure, "osmolytes" include amino carboxylic acid derivatives, amino sulfonic acid derivatives, and salts of derivatives (collectively referred to herein as "amino acid derivatives"), but do not include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, or their salts that are described above, and do not include polyols.

[0051] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise more than one osmolyte. Without wishing to develop a theory, it is believed that the use of osmolytes according to the disclosure allows treated hair to maintain a moisture balance, thereby reducing potential hair damage, or to restore a moisture balance to already damaged hair, enabling the treated hair to recover reduced strength and / or elasticity associated with healthy hair.

[0052] In preferred embodiments, the useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from compounds of formula (II) or their salts:

[0053] (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II)

[0054] in which:

[0055] - RI, R2 and R3 are chosen independently from among the alkyl groups in C1-C4, of preferentially alkyl groups in C1-C2, more preferentially a methyl group;

[0056] - A is N or S;

[0057] - m and n are independently 0 or 1;

[0058] - X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH) or an amino (-NH2); and

[0059] - Y is -COO- or -OSO3- ;

[0060] provided that:

[0061] • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2;

[0062] • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (in C1-C8) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (at C1-C4); and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 to 6 ring links, knowing that this ring can be substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or alkyl (in C1-C4); and

[0063] • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2.

[0064] Useful, but not limited to, polyamine compounds may include primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. By way of example, polyamines that may be selected include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polymeric polyamines or polyimines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, a polyethyleneimine (PEI), a polyvinylamine, a polyetheramine, a polylysine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the useful polyamines are selected from putrescine, spermidine, and / or spermine.

[0065] Useful, but not limiting, examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Salts of betaine may also be used and are expressly included in the term "betaine" unless otherwise specified. In particularly preferred embodiments, the betaines are selected from those corresponding to formula (II). Examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in Figures IA and IB. As shown in [Fig. 1A], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) are in zwitterionic form, and as shown in [Fig. 1B], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X.The counterion is not limited and can be any suitable counterion, for example a chloride ion, a bromide ion, an iodide ion, a sulfate anion, a sulfonate anion, a methyl sulfate anion, a phosphate anion, a nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used here, a "compound of formula (II)" expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound and the salt forms, whether or not this is specified.

[0066] As Figures IA and IB show, examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as "betaines"). "), for example valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine and / or dimethyl sulfoniopropionate. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).

[0067] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more compounds of formula (II), that is, a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising a total of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0068] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In some other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R3 is a methyl. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a group selected from a hydroxyl or an amino group.In still other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as a methylene or an ethylene.In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a saturated (C1-C10) alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl (C1-C6), more preferably an alkyl (C1-C4); a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted with a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bi-cyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bi-cyclic) substituted with an alkyl group; all such groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted. with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is a hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl, linear or branched (C1-C6), more preferably an alkyl (C1-C4); optionally substituted with a group selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -COOH or -CONH2. In some preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group. In other preferred embodiments, RI = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if present) is a divalent alkyl group which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a group selected from a hydroxyl or an amino, more preferably of 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as a methylene or an ethylene; R4 is a hydrogen; and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring links, preferably from 5 to 6 ring links, optionally substituted with a hydroxy group.

[0070] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures IA and IB. In more preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise trimethylglycine (a name interchangeable with glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).

[0071] Useful, but not limiting, examples of carbohydrate sugars that may be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example, pentoses and / or their derivatives, or hexoses and / or their derivatives. For example, sugars may optionally be chosen from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxyribose, ribulose, deoxyribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more of In at least some embodiments, the sugars are selected from disaccharides, for example sucrose, maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from polysaccharides, for example maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably selected from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0072] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition can range from about 0.01% to about 15%, such as, for example, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2.25% to about 10% from about 2.25% to about 9%, from about 2.25% to about 8%, from about 2.25% to about 7%, from about 2.25% to about 6%, from about 2.25% to about 5%, from about 2.25% to about 4%, from about 2.25% to about 3%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2%5% to approximately 5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may be approximately 2.0%, approximately 2.1%, approximately 2.2%, approximately 2.3%, approximately 2.4%, approximately 2.5%, approximately 2.6%, approximately 2.7%, approximately 2.8%, approximately 2.9%, or approximately 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the previous values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0073] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example, from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or possibly from about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9% or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0074] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example, from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%. %, of about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0075] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose quantities of amino acids and osmolytes to obtain a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acid(s) and their salts in the composition and the total quantity of osmolytes in the composition that is greater than about 0.1, for example, greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acid(s) and their salts and the total quantity of osmolytes may range from about 0.1 to about 10, such as from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5.In other embodiments, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts and the total amount of osmolytes can range from more than 1 to about 4, such as from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about . 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) in the composition and the total amount of osmolytes in the composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4 or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds.

[0076] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids selected from compounds of formula (I) and a total amount of osmolytes selected from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):components of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):components of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example, from about 1 to about 4, from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2.For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1, about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds.

[0077] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine, serine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. Carboxylic acids

[0078] The compositions according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the compositions may include at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that comprise, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-) or more of three acid functional groups and at least one carbon atom.

[0079] The carboxylic acids that may be used may optionally have a molecular weight less than approximately 500 g / mol, less than approximately 400 g / mol, less than approximately 300 g / mol, or less than approximately 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight less than approximately 300 g / mol, or less than approximately 200 g / mol.

[0080] Salts of carboxylic acids may also be used and are expressly included in the term "carboxylic acid" unless otherwise expressly stated. Salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, salts of alkali metals, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; salts of alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in some embodiments, and in particular sodium salts.

[0081] In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or one of their salts. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid-type compounds described above. The useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acidic or salt form); They can thus include a single -COOH group (monoacid) or can include more than one -COOH group, for example two (in acid or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form) (polyacids).The useful (poly)acids also include at least one -OH group, such as one to three or two to three -OH groups, for example, one, two, or three -OH groups. Preferably, the (poly)acids comprise a total of 2 to 8 or 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In some preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 3 to 6 carbon atoms, one to three -OH groups, and two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salt form). Unless otherwise indicated, as used herein, the term "(poly)acid" includes both monoacids and polyacids.

[0082] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that may be chosen include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or one of its salts.

[0083] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that may be selected include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0084] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or one of its salts.

[0085] In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts.In certain embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to choose citric acid, lactic acid and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; and preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

[0086] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) can range from approximately 0.5% to approximately 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, in particular from approximately 1% to approximately 12%, and from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 1% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%from approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4%, from approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8% from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5.5%from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 5% to approximately , 10%, from approximately 5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 5% to approximately 6.5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 6.5%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 6% to approximately 15%, from approximately 6% to approximately 12%, from approximately 6% to approximately 10%, from approximately 6% to approximately 9%, from approximately 6% to approximately 8%, from approximately 6% % to about 7%, or about 6% to about 6.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] In certain embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose quantities of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and the total quantity of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and the total quantity of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.1, greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, such as about 0.8 to about 1.5, about 0.8 to about 1.35, or about 0.8 to about 1.2.In some preferred embodiments, the composition includes arginine and at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and . the total quantity of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.2. Esters

[0089] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one ester. The esters that may be selected include, for example, monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and combinations thereof. The esters may be branched or linear and may be ionic or nonionic. In at least some embodiments, the esters are selected from those having a molecular weight greater than about 300 g / mol, such as greater than about 400 g / mol, greater than about 500 g / mol, greater than about 600 g / mol, greater than about 700 g / mol, greater than about 800 g / mol, greater than about 900 g / mol, or greater than about 1000 g / mol. The esters that may be selected may be oils, or may be in the form of waxes or resins that are typically mixtures of different types of esters.

[0090] By way of non-limiting example, monoesters may be chosen from those comprising from 18 to 40 carbon atoms in total, such as monoesters of formula R1COOR2, in which RI represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue having from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain which is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in which RI + R2 is greater than or equal to 18.Examples of useful monoesters include, but are not limited to, isononyl isononanoate, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, palmitate of 2-Octyldecyl, 2-Octyldodecyl myristate, 2-Diethylhexyl succinate, isoamyl laurate, isoamyl stearate, isoamyl cocoate, isoamyl caprylate / caprate, or combinations thereof.

[0091] Examples of useful diesters include, but are not limited to, those comprising from 18 to 60 carbon atoms in total, preferably from 18 to 50 carbon atoms. For example, diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, preferably such as diisostearyl malate, or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, may be chosen.

[0092] Non-limiting examples of triesters that can be used include those comprising from 35 to 70 carbon atoms in total, such as the triesters of a tricarboxylic acid, for example triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, Glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, triisostearine, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, or combinations thereof.

[0093] Examples of useful tetraesters include, but are not limited to, those having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic acid, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetracaprate, or combinations thereof.

[0094] In at least some embodiments, the esters are preferably selected from C22-C30 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters, preferably C24-C28. For example, the esters may be selected from triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, etc. In some embodiments, the esters are preferably selected from C22-C30 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters, preferably C24-C28, and have a molecular weight greater than about 500 g / mol, greater than about 600 g / mol, greater than about 700 g / mol, greater than about 800 g / mol, or greater than about 900 g / mol.In particularly preferred embodiments, the esters comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of one or more C22-C30 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters, preferably C24-C28, having a molecular weight greater than about 500 g / mol, greater than about 600 g / mol, greater than about 700 g / mol, greater than about 800 g / mol, or greater than about 900 g / mol, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

[0095] The total quantity of esters present can range from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of esters can range from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3.5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.25% to about 8%, from about 0.25% to about 7%, from about 0.25% to about 6%, from about 0.25% to about 5%, from about 0.25% to about 4%, from about 0.25% to about 3.5%, from about 0.25% to about 3%, from about 0.25% to about 2.5%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2 %, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.75% to about 8%, from about 0.75% to about 7%, from about 0.75% to about 6%, from about 0.75% to about 5%, from about 0.75% to about 4%, from about 0.75% to about 3.5%, from about 0.75% to about 3%, from about 0.75% to about 2.5%, from about 0.75% % to about 2%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or may be about 0.5%, about 0.75%, about 1%, about 1.25%, about 1.5%approximately 1.75%, approximately 2%, approximately 2.25%, or approximately 2.5%, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper or lower limits.

[0096] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate in any of the aforementioned amounts. Solvents

[0097] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one solvent. In various embodiments, the solvent may be chosen from water, non-aqueous solvents, or a combination thereof.

[0098] In preferred embodiments, the solvent includes water. In some embodiments, the composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 95% by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, from about 55% to about 90%, from about 60% to about 90%, or from about 60% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] In other embodiments, the solvent may include at least one non-aqueous solvent. Non-limiting examples of non-aqueous solvents that may be used include, for example, glycerin, C1.4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, lamellar lipid materials, or combinations thereof. The non-aqueous solvent may be selected from organic solvents, for example, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol. or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl-ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers, such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether.

[0100] Preferably, the compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols may be selected from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12 polyols, C2-C8 polyols, or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that may be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols can be chosen from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 triols, either of which can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.

[0101] By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol may be chosen.In some embodiments, the polyols are selected from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-Dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-l,2-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol, or combinations of two or more of these.In some preferred embodiments, the polyols are selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more of these. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, and other similar compounds. glycerin, or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols. In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, essentially consists of, or consists of one or more glycols, for example propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, essentially consists of, or consists of dipropylene glycol.

[0102] If present, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents in the composition may range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%, such as from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 2% to approximately 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably selected from polyols.In some embodiments, the composition comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 11%, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and further optionally wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more of these, preferably selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more of these. Film-forming

[0103] Optionally, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one film-forming agent. In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one film-forming agent. As used herein, the terms and expressions "film-forming agent," "film-forming agent," "film-forming polymer," and their variations, refer to an agent or polymer capable, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a substantially continuous film that adheres to a substrate, and in particular to keratinous materials such as hair.

[0104] Among the film-forming agents that can be used, examples include anionic compounds or polymers, non-ionic compounds or polymers, Amphoteric compounds or polymers, zwitterionic compounds or polymers, cationic compounds or polymers, proteins, viscosity modifiers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyacrylate copolymers, polymethacrylate copolymers, polyamides, polyaminoamides, polyesters, polysaccharides, polyacrylamides, starches, gums, or combinations of two or more of these. In preferred embodiments, film-forming agents, if present, are natural or naturally derived compounds.

[0105] For example, in various embodiments, the film-forming agent(s) may be selected from anionic polymers. Without limitation, anionic film-forming polymers that may be used include polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphoric acid and having a number-average molecular weight ranging from about 500 to about 5,000,000.

[0106] By way of non-limiting example, anionic film-forming polymers comprising carboxylic groups that may be used include: (A) copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or their salts, such as copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked, C1-C4 acrylic acid and alkyl methacrylate copolymers and C1-C20 vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and alkyl methacrylate terpolymers, for example lauryl methacrylate, methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate copolymers, or copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate;(B) crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising vinyl acetate or propionate motifs in their chain and optionally other monomers such as allyl esters or metallyl esters, a vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched long-chain saturated hydrocarbon carboxylic acid, such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers optionally being grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another vinyl, allyl or metallyl ester monomer of an α- or [3-cyclic carboxylic acid;and (C) copolymers of monounsaturated C4-C8 carboxylic acids or anhydrides including (i) copolymers comprising (a) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides, and (b) at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenyl vinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated, or (ii) copolymers comprising (a) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride motifs, and (b) one or more monomers selected from allyl or methallyl esters optionally comprising one or more; acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidated.

[0107] In various embodiments, the cationic film-forming polymers that can be used include polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly linked thereto, and having a molecular weight ranging from about 500 to about 5,000,000, and preferably from about 1,000 to about 3,000,000.

[0108] For example, the cationic film-forming polymer may be selected from: (A) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, such as (i) quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® by ISP, for example Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755 or Gafquat® 755N (INCI name Polyquaternium-11), or alternatively the products known as Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937 sold by ISP (INCI name VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer), (ii) fat-chain polymers containing a vinylpyrrolidone motif, such as the products sold under the names Styleze® W20L and Styleze® W10 by the ISP (INCI name Polyquatemium-55), (iii) dimethylaminoethyl / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone methacrylate terpolymers,such as products sold under the names Advantage HC 37 or Gaffix® VC 713 by ISP (INCI name Vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer), or (iv) quaternary vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as products sold under the name Gafquat® HS 100 by ISP (INCI name Polyquatemium-28); (B) cationic guar gum derivatives, preferably containing a quaternary ammonium, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, for example those sold under the trade names Jaguar® C13 S, Jaguar® C 15 and Jaguar® C 17 by Rhodia (INCI name Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride); (C) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; Examples include vinylpyrrolidone / methylvinylimidazolium chloride copolymers, such as the products sold by BASF under the names Luviquat® FC550 or FC370,Luviquat® Excellence and Luviquat® Style (INCI name Polyquaternium-16), or vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazolium methosulfate / vinyl prolactam terpolymers, such as the product Luviquat® Hold sold by BASF (INCI name Polyquaternium-46); (D) chitosans or their salts; the salts that may be used are, in particular, acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate, of chitosan, such as chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate sold under the name Kytamer® PC by Amerchol (INCI name Chitosan PCA); and (E) cationic cellulosic derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium, for example products sold under the names Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by Akzo Nobel (INCI name Polyquaternium-4).

[0109] Examples of amphoteric film-forming polymers that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from polymers comprising motifs B and C distributed statistically in the polymer chain, where B denotes a motif derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a motif derived from an acidic monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine monomers, or B and C may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group linked via a hydrocarbon group, or alternatively B and C are part of a chain of a polymer comprising an ethylene α motif,[3-dicarboxylic acid in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.]

[0110] For example, the amphoteric film-forming polymer may be selected from: (A) copolymers containing acidic vinyl motifs and basic vinyl motifs, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, α-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, a dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, a dialkylaminoalkyl-methacrylamide and α-acrylamide;(B) polymers comprising motifs derived from (i) at least one monomer selected from acrylamides or methacrylamides in which the nitrogen atom is substituted with an alkyl group (e.g., N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide, or the corresponding methacrylamides), (ii) at least one acid comonomer; containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups (e.g., acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic or fumaric acid or alkyl monoesters of maleic or fumaric acid or an anhydride having 1 to 4 carbon atoms), and (iii) at least one basic comonomer such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with a dimethyl or diethyl sulfate (e.g., aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-dimethylaminoethyl or N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates); (C) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan, for example the product sold under the name Chitoglycan by the company Sinerga SPA (INCI name Carboxymethyl chitosan);and (D) alkyl(Ci-C5) vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semi-amidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine, such as N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine, or by semi-esterification with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkanol.

[0111] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one nonionic film-forming polymer. By way of non-limiting example, nonionic film-forming polymers may be selected from polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; vinyl acetate copolymers, for example vinyl acetate and acrylic ester copolymers; vinyl acetate and ethylene copolymers, or vinyl acetate and maleic ester copolymers, for example dibutyl maleate; acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers, for example alkyl acrylate and alkyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the products offered by Rohm GmbH under the name Eudragit® NE 30 D (INCI name Acrylates copolymer); copolymers of acrylonitrile and a non-ionic monomer selected, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; styrene homopolymers;styrene copolymers, for example styrene, alkyl acrylate and alkyl methacrylate copolymers; styrene and butadiene copolymers, or styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine copolymers; polyamides; vinyllactam homopolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers sold, for example, under the names Luviskol® K30 powder by BASF or PVP K30L or K60 solution or K90 by ISP, or such as polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by BASF, a polyvinylpyrrolidone (INCI name PVP); vinyllactam copolymers, such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold; under the names PVP / VA® S630L, E735, E635 and W735 by the company ISP, Luviskol ®VA73, VA64 and VA37 by the company BASF (INCI name VP / VA copolymer); and vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole terpolymers, for example the product sold under the name Luviset® Clear by the company BASF (INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer).

[0112] In preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one non-ionic polymer that is natural or of natural origin, for example a cellulose such as hydroxyethylcellulose or one of its derivatives, such as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, may be chosen.

[0113] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides that may be selected include oxidized inulins, celluloses, starches, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, alginate gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, chitosan, gum arabic, xyloses and tragacanth gums, and their derivatives, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin and hyaluronic acid, or mixtures thereof.For example, gums that may be chosen include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, karaya gum, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyldextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and any mixture thereof.

[0114] Other non-limiting examples of polymers that may be used include non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Suitable cationic guar gum derivatives include commercially available hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, for example, under the name JAGUAR C13S. Other suitable materials include those known as JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17, and JAGUAR® Cl6, which are hydroxypropyl cationic guar derivatives containing a low percentage of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups. Hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride may also be commercially available, for example, under the name N-HANCE CG 13 from Ashland. Hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, commercially available under the name JAGUAR® 162, is also suitable.

[0115] In various embodiments, the film-forming agent(s) may be selected from a PVM / MA (poly(methylvinyl ether-alt-maleic acid) (for example, sold under the name Gantrez®), carrageenan, gum arabic, oxidized inulin, alginate, xanthan gum, xylan, chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polysilicone 8, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethylsiloxane / 3-thiopropylmethylsiloxane copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, poly(vinyl acetate), starch, cellulose, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-11, acrylates / steareth-2 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, vinyl acetate / neodecanoate copolymer vinyl, a polyester-5, cetyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl acetate, a vinyl crotonate / neodecanoate copolymer, a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) / acrylic acid (AA) copolymer, an AMPS / AA / acryl methacrylate copolymer, a polyacrylamide, a C13-C14 isoparaffin,Laureth-7, octylacrylamide, a butylaminoethyl acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, or a mixture thereof.

[0116] The total amount of film-forming agent present may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.1% to about 20%, such as from about 0.25% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.75% to about 5%, or from about 0.75% to about 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of film-forming agent can range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.25% to about 10%, from about 0.25% to about 9%, from about 0.25% to about 8%, from about 0.25% to about 7%, from about 0.25% to about 6%, from about 0.25% to about 5%, from about 0.25% to about 4%, from about 0.25% to about 3%, from about 0.25% to about 2%, from about 0.25% to about 1.5%, from about 0.25% to about 1%, or from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, at least one film-forming polymer may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 1%, such as about 0.2% to about 0.8%, about 0.3% to about 0.7%, about 0.4% to about 0.6%, or about 0.5%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants

[0117] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include at least one surfactant. For example, the compositions may include one or more cationic and / or amphoteric surfactants and, in some embodiments, the compositions may include mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.

[0118] Although the compositions may optionally include one or more anionic and / or non-ionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic and / or non-ionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments, the compositions comprise less than about 3%, such as less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.75%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.2%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.01%, or less than about 0.001% of anionic and / or non-ionic surfactants.

[0119] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the composition(s) as disclosed. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more cationizable functional groups in the composition as disclosed. Non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include alkylamidoamines and esterquats, such as, for example, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyldimethylamine, risostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride,behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyldimethylethylbenzylammonium chloride (Quatemium-14), Quatemium-22, Quaternium-26, Quatemium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine ​​hydrochloride, diethanolammonium phosphate POE (10) oleyl ether, diethanolammonium phosphate POE (3) oleyl ether, alkonium tallow chloride, dimethyldioctadecylammonium bentonite, the, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquatemium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyltrihydroxyethylpropylenediamine dihydrofluoride, suiftrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or combinations thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the composition includes at least one alkylamidoamine, for example brassicamidopropyldimethylamine.In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0120] If present, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, or from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6% and most preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] In at least some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include secondary and tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives where the aliphatic radical may be a linear or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as a carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate. sodium, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium maize amphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium maize amphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium maize amphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium maize amphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocaminopropionate, triethanolamine cocaminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanolamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine cocoamphopropionate,triethanolamine maize amphopropionate, triethanolamine lauraminopropionate, triethanolamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanolamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanolamine maize amphopropionate, triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecetethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid,Laurylaminopropylglycine and lauryldiethylenediaminoglycine.

[0122] Betaine surfactants may also be used. For example, one can choose cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, cetyldimethylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethylbetaine, stearylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgamma-carboxypropylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethylbetaine, cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropylbetaine, oleylbetaine, or cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0123] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants.

[0124] In some preferred embodiments, the surfactant does not include behentrimonium chloride. In some preferred embodiments, the surfactant comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more alkylamidoamines, for example, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine. Fatty compounds

[0125] Optionally, the compositions as disclosed may include at least one fatty compound other than the esters described above. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of two or more of these. If present, the composition preferably includes one or more fatty compounds that are natural or of natural origin.

[0126] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be aminofunctionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that may be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyltrimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane.For example, the composition may include at least one silicone selected from amodimethicone, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, or a mixture of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a silicone oil component which comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.

[0127] By way of further examples, silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylsilicones, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0128] However, in some preferred embodiments, the composition is free or substantially free of silicones.

[0129] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or higher, such as, for example, C8 or higher, C10 or higher, or C12 or higher, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.

[0130] By way of example, fatty alcohols may be selected from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0131] The useful, but not limiting, fatty acids may be linear- or branched-chain fatty acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids, as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, their salts, or combinations thereof.

[0132] In some embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be chosen. For example, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or poly-alcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10, may be used. In other embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of alcohols may also be used. C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or penta-hydroxy alcohols in C2-C26. By way of non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methyl acetylricinoleate, myristyle stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, the octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, and 2-octyldodecyl myristate,of myristyle or stearyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoylstearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, the pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate,and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be chosen. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or one fatty alcohol ester, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

[0133] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one wax.Non-limiting examples of waxes that can be used include beeswax, hydrogenated olive alkyl esters, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, palm kernel glycerides / hydrogenated palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, siliconyl candelilla wax, China wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax; triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (tribehenate of . glyceryl); synthetic waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes and polyethylene waxes obtained by the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of two or more of any of these waxes. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a wax component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more natural waxes, for example, cetyl esters.

[0134] In certain embodiments, the composition comprises one or more fatty compounds selected from oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin (for example, lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, tortoiseshell oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, safflower oil, ucuba butter or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (for example, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene,or also linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes that are facultatively volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane), mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols (for example, mono- and polyesters of hydroxylated acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, C5-C9 dipentaerythrityl esters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters or hydrogenated castor oil polyesters), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils, or mixtures of two or more of these. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids that can be used include facultatively branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid,or mixtures of two or more of these.

[0135] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition can range from about 0.1% to about 20%, such as about 1% to about 20%, about 2% to about 15%, about 3% to about 12%, or about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of fatty compounds can range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 15%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 8%, or from about 2% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] In preferred embodiments, the fatty compound does not include silicones. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one fatty alcohol, at least one fatty acid, at least one natural wax and / or at least one vegetable oil / vegetable butter.

[0137] In other preferred embodiments, the fatty compound comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of ucuuba butter, lauric acid, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl esters, or combinations of two or more of these. In particularly preferred embodiments, the fat compound includes ucuuba butter, which is present in an amount of about 0.1%, about 0.2%, about 0.3%, about 0.4%, about 0.5%, about 0.6%, about 0.7%, about 0.8%, about 0.9%, about 1%, about 1.1%, about 1.2%, about 1.3%, about 1.4%, about 1.5%, about 1.6%, about 1.7%, about 1.8%, about 1.9%, or about 2% by weight, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] It can be particularly advantageous, in terms of providing benefits to the hair, to select quantities of esters and fatty compounds relative to each other. Therefore, in some embodiments, the total quantity of fatty compounds in the composition is greater than the total quantity of esters. For example, in some embodiments, the composition may have a weight ratio between the total quantity of fatty compounds and the total quantity of esters ranging from about 2 to about 8, such as about 2.5 to about 7.5, about 3 to about 7, about 3.5 to about 6.5, about 4 to about 6, about 4.25 to about 5.5, about 4.25 to about 5, or about 4.4 to about 4.8.

[0139] In other embodiments, the composition comprises at least one vegetable oil / vegetable butter, and has a weight ratio between the total quantity of vegetable oils / butters and the total quantity of esters ranging from about 0.1 to about 1, such as from about 0.15 to about 0.9, from about 0.2 to about 0.8, from about 0.25 to about 0.7, from about 0.3 to about 0.6, or from about 0.3 to about 0.5. In other embodiments, the composition comprises at least one vegetable oil / vegetable butter and at least one ester selected from C22-C30 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters, preferably C24-C28, and the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of vegetable oils / butters and the total quantity of esters selected from branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters in C22-C30, preferably in C24-C28, ranging from about 0.1 to about 1, such as from about 0.15 to about 0.9, from about 0.2 to about 0.8, from about 0.25 to about 0.7, from about 0.3 to about 0.6, or from about 0.3 to about 0.5. As a preferred but not limiting example, the composition may include ucuuba butter and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, the weight ratio of ucuuba butter:pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate ranging from about 0.1 to about 1, such as about 0.15 to about 0.9, about 0.2 to about 0.8, about 0.25 to about 0.7, about 0.3 to about 0.6, or about 0.3 to about 0.5, or is about 0.15, about 0.2, about 0.25, about 0.3, about 0.35, about 0.4, about 0.45 or about 0.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds. Thickening agents

[0140] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally include at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulosic derivatives; synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers and beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymers; acrylate copolymers; polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEL10); natural polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan; vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly; waxes; associated particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide and microcrystalline cellulose; celluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and guars, such as hydroxypropyl guar.If present, the composition preferably includes one or more thickening compounds that are natural or of natural origin.

[0141] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylate copolymer and acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer.

[0142] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01% to about 8%, such as from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components

[0143] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.

[0144] The total quantity of auxiliary components, if present, typically ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the individual quantities of each component or the total quantity of components may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] The compositions according to the disclosure typically have a pH less than or equal to about 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, the compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0146] The compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, the compositions may be a liquid, a gel, a gel-cream, a high, medium, or low density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc. In preferred embodiments, the compositions are hair masks or deep conditioning treatments that are in the form of a lotion or cream. II. PROCESSES

[0147] The disclosure further relates to hair treatment processes, particularly for curly or wavy hair. These hair treatment processes may include processes for restoring or enhancing the shape and / or definition of curls. Surprisingly, the shape and / or definition of curls obtained with the compositions disclosed may be long-lasting. For example, the shape and / or definition of curls may persist for one or more hair washing cycles, for example, two or more, or even three or more.

[0148] Hair treatment processes may be processes for reducing or preventing hair damage, or for protecting hair against damage, restoration of the moisture balance of hair fibers, strengthening of hair fibers, improvement of hair fiber elasticity, and / or maintenance of the moisture balance, strength, and / or elasticity of hair fibers. In some embodiments, hair treatment processes prevent hair damage from becoming so severe that it cannot be repaired, i.e., they prevent irreversible hair damage.

[0149] The methods include applying a composition as disclosed (a "curl-reviving composition") to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time ("treatment time," "resting time," or "set time"), and optionally rinsing the composition from the hair. The methods may optionally include repeating the treatment at least once, such as at least twice, at least three times, at least four times, at least five times, etc., or as required to revive or restore curl definition and / or treat the hair.

[0150] The application period may last for a time deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the hair, such as approximately 30 seconds, approximately 1 minute, approximately 2 minutes, approximately 5 minutes, approximately 10 minutes, approximately 15 minutes, approximately 20 minutes, approximately 30 minutes, approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 hours, approximately 4 hours, approximately 6 hours, approximately 8 hours, approximately 10 hours, approximately 12 hours, approximately 16 hours, approximately 20 hours, approximately 24 hours, etc., or may vary by a period of time using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.As a non-limiting example, the application time can range from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 4 hours, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 2 hours, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, from approximately 20 minutes to approximately 1 hour, from approximately 1 hour to approximately 12 hours, from approximately 2 hours to approximately 10 hours, from approximately 4 hours to approximately 8 hours, from approximately 8 hours to approximately 24 hours, from approximately 8 hours to approximately 12 hours, etc. For example, an application time can be overnight or until the next rinse or shampoo of the hair, according to the user's usual hygiene practices.

[0151] Although not necessary, the processes for using the compositions according to the disclosure may also include a step of heating the hair to which the composition has been applied, for example, during the resting period while the composition is on the hair. For example, a hair dryer, a hair dryer hood, etc., may be used.

[0152] At least in some embodiments, the hair that can be treated according to the processes described may be hair that has been previously bleached, dyed, straightened, relaxed, etc. It will be understood that the hair that is treated according to various processes described herein may be hair that has been previously Hair subjected to such chemical treatments needs repair, curl reshaping, curl revitalization, or similar benefits. Therefore, these procedures can be performed at any time following such a chemical treatment to achieve the desired benefits of repair, curl reshaping, curl revitalization, etc. For example, procedures can be performed within six months of a chemical treatment, such as bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, etc., or within five months, four months, three months, two months, one month, three weeks, two weeks, one week, five days, four days, three days, two days, one day, 12 hours, 8 hours, 6 hours, 4 hours, 2 hours, or one hour following the treatment.The period during which the procedures are intended to be implemented according to the disclosure is not limited.

[0153] In one exemplary embodiment, a composition according to the disclosure may be applied to the hair, for example to reshape or revive curls or waves, to improve the overall health and appearance of curls or waves, to improve the elasticity of hair fibers, to prevent or reduce damage to hair fibers, etc., by applying a composition to wet, damp or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then, optionally, drying and / or styling the hair according to the individual's habits.

[0154] In other embodiments, a composition as disclosed may be applied to the hair before, during and / or after a chemical hair treatment process. For example, such a routine may include applying a composition as disclosed to wet, damp or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then substantially immediately afterwards (i.e. as part of the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with an intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, smoothing, straightening or perming composition to the hair.Another routine of this type might include applying a chemical treatment, such as a bleaching, dyeing, smoothing, relaxing, or perming product, to the hair, and substantially immediately afterward (i.e., as part of the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with an intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a product as disclosed. Thus, it is envisaged that products as disclosed could be incorporated into a chemical hair treatment process, thereby reducing, minimizing, or... to prevent hair damage that could otherwise result from such harsh chemical treatments. By incorporating such compositions into chemical processing, the shape or definition of curls or waves can be preserved.

[0155] Surprisingly, hair treated with compositions and processes according to the disclosure exhibits less damage than hair not treated with compositions and processes according to the disclosure and, consequently, greater curl retention or recovery. The reduction in damage is particularly noticeable on hair damaged by harsh chemical treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc., as well as by repeated styling, for example with heat or styling tools. Hair repaired using compositions and processes according to the disclosure may have lower elasticity and / or higher tensile strength than similarly damaged hair not treated according to the disclosure, as well as better-defined curls and waves.

[0156] The expression "and / or" should be understood as including both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, "amino acids and / or their salts" means "amino acids and their salts" as well as "amino acids or their salts", and expressly covers cases of either.

[0157] As used herein, the term “salts” throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example, in an aqueous solution.

[0158] The terms and expressions "curls," "curly hair," "waves," or similar terms, which are used interchangeably herein, refer to any hair that includes a curl or wave. The degree of curliness of the hair may vary and is not limited. The curl may be natural or artificial, i.e., formed by chemical or physical treatment of the hair, although a natural curl is preferred.

[0159] As used herein, the expression "apply a composition to the hair," and its variations, is intended to refer to bringing the hair into contact with at least one of the compositions in the disclosure, in any manner whatsoever. It may also refer to bringing the hair into contact with an effective quantity.

[0160] The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of the hair. The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to bringing the hair into contact with the compositions of this disclosure.

[0161] As used herein, the expressions “revive curls,” “enhance curl recovery,” “reshape curls,” “reshape curly hair,” or similar expressions are intended to mean that the intensity and / or shape of the curl or wave in the hair, which may have been diminished as a result of damage, is enhanced by treatment with the compositions or processes described herein. An increase in curl or wave may be any increase, for example, an increase in curl shape and / or an increase in curl definition. It will be understood, however, that an increase in curls provided by the compositions and processes as disclosed herein is due to the compositions and processes restoring curls or waves to the hair, rather than providing curls or waves to naturally straight, unpermed hair.As is known, an increase in curl or wave can be observed visually, for example when treated hair appears curlier than pre-treatment hair, or when curls or waves appear more defined; it can be determined by measuring the length of a strand of hair, a shorter strand being considered curlier than a longer one; or it can be determined by any other accepted method.

[0162] As used herein, the expressions "curl reviving composition," "curl restoring composition," or similar terms refer to a composition as disclosed. These compositions can restore or revive curls to any degree, without limitation. However, in at least some embodiments, the degree of curl revival can be at least approximately 10%, at least approximately 12%, at least approximately 15%, at least approximately 18%, at least approximately 20%, at least approximately 22%, or at least approximately 25% relative to the hair before treatment.

[0163] As used herein, the term “natural” and the expression “of natural origin” refer to material of natural origin, for example of plant origin, which may or may not be subsequently modified chemically or physically.

[0164] As used herein, the expression "component having a negative environmental impact" and its variations refer to any component which may itself have a negative environmental impact, or any component whose harvesting, processing, etc., may have a negative environmental impact.

[0165] For the purposes of this disclosure, the terms "vegetable oil" and "vegetable oil / vegetable butter" are to be understood to include both oils and butters (e.g., ucuuba oil and ucuuba butter), unless expressly stated otherwise. EXAMPLES

[0166] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Compositions

[0167] Compositions IA and IB according to the disclosure were prepared as indicated in Table 1.

[0168] [Table 1]

[0169] [Tables 1] IA IB Basic amino acid(s) 3.8 3.8 Thickening agent(s) 0.9 0.9 Non-ionic surfactant(s) 0.5 0.5 Cationic surfactant(s) 3.0 3.0 Glycine betaine 1.8 1.8 Citric acid 5.5 5.5 Wax(s) 0.5 0.5 Fatty alcohol(s) 6.3 6.3 Vegetable oil(s) 0.5 Ester(s) 2.5 1.5 Additives (preservatives, perfume, vitamins) <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) Qs per 100 Qs per 100

[0170] Compositions IA and IB, which include a combination of amino acids (arginine), osmolytes (trimethylglycine), carboxylic acids (citric acid), esters (pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate), surfactants, and fatty compounds, are hair mask compositions free of silicone compounds and include more than 70% components from renewable sources. Composition IB includes a vegetable oil (ucuuba butter) in addition to waxes and fatty alcohols.

[0171] Example 2 - Evaluation of curl recovery and cosmetic benefits

[0172] The following studies were conducted to evaluate the effectiveness of the compositions as disclosed in reviving or restoring curls, providing curl definition and providing cosmetic benefits to treated hair. Example 2A# - No-rinse treatment

[0173] Equal amounts of composition IA or IB were applied to three strands of Caucasian curly hair. The compositions were left on the hair and the strands were air-dried at room temperature.

[0174] Figure 2C shows the strands before treatment, and Figures 2A and 2B show the strands after treatment with compositions IA and IB, respectively. As Figures 2A to 2C demonstrate, the degree of curl and curl definition restored to the hair with the treatment as disclosed is significant. In addition, the strands exhibit a significant reduction in frizz and volume, and increased shine and smooth texture. Example 2B# - Treatment with rinsing

[0175] Equal amounts of composition IB were applied to six strands of previously bleached, curly Caucasian hair. The compositions were rinsed from the hair and the strands were left to air dry at room temperature.

[0176] Figure 3A shows images of three strands bleached according to a standard bleaching protocol at room temperature (27°C) before and after treatment with composition IB, and Figure 3B shows images of three strands bleached according to an accelerated bleaching protocol at an increased temperature (37°C) before and after treatment with composition IB. As Figures 3A and 3B demonstrate, the pre-treatment bleached hair had lost curl definition, but the degree of curl and curl definition restored to the post-treatment hair is significant. In addition, the strands exhibit a marked reduction in frizz and volume, and increased shine and smooth texture after treatment.

[0177] Example 2 demonstrates that the compositions according to the disclosure amazingly and unexpectedly restore curls and curl definition on damaged hair and provide cosmetic benefits to treated hair.

Claims

Demands

1. Hair treatment composition comprising: a. at least one compound selected from amino acids or their salts; b. at least one osmolyte; c. at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; d. at least one ester; e. optionally at least one surfactant; f. optionally at least one fatty compound other than d); and g. at least one solvent, wherein the total amount of amino acids and their salts is from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and wherein the total amount of osmolytes is from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising a) at least one amino acid selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, comprising (b) at least one compound of formula (II) selected from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, preferably comprising glycine betaine.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising d) at least one ester selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, or combinations thereof, preferably having a molecular weight greater than about 300 g / mol.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising d) at least one ester selected from C22-C30 esters, preferably C24-C28 esters, branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the total amount of amino acids and their salts ranges from about 1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 8%, and most preferably from about 2.5% to about 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the total amount of osmolytes ranges from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the total quantity of esters ranges from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising d) at least one ester selected from C24-C28 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters, preferably comprising pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and f) at least one vegetable oil, preferably comprising ucuuba butter.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition comprises ucuuba butter and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and has a weight ratio of ucuuba butter:pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate ranging from about 0.1 to about 1, preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.8, more preferably from about 0.3 to about 0.6, and most preferably from about 0.3 to about 0.5.

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