COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS
A synergistic composition of amino acids, osmolytes, carboxylic acids, and cationic surfactants addresses the damage caused by harsh hair treatments, enhancing hair strength and reducing elasticity for healthier hair.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024004708
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-06
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-05-06
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatments that alter color or shape, such as bleaching, dyeing, straightening, and relaxing, use harsh chemicals that damage hair, leading to loss of strength, increased elasticity, and overall unhealthy appearance.
A composition comprising a synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, carboxylic acids, and cationic surfactants, applied to keratin fibers to repair damage, enhance strength, and reduce elasticity.
The composition effectively prevents or minimizes hair damage, improving hair strength and reducing elasticity, resulting in healthier-looking and feeling hair.
Smart Images

Figure 00000058_0000 
Figure 00000058_0001 
Figure 00000059_0000
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS Technical field
[0001] The present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example to repair damaged keratin fibers, provide strength to the keratin fibers and / or to reduce the elasticity of the keratin fibers. CONTEXT
[0002] Consumers desire to use cosmetic compositions and processes to change or enhance the appearance of their hair, for example, by altering the color, style, and / or shape of the hair, and / or by imparting various properties to the hair, such as shine and conditioning. However, many compositions and processes for altering the appearance of hair, such as compositions and processes for permanently altering the color or shape of hair, involve harsh chemical treatments. In addition, repeated styling can lead to damage to the hair, for example, due to the repeated use of heat and styling tools. All of these processes can break the bonds within the hair fibers, which, if not reformed, results in damaged hair.
[0003] For example, hair lightening and dyeing compositions and processes generally require the presence of a strong alkalizing agent such as ammonia, as well as additional compounds such as oxidizing agents. In order to change the color of the hair, these components must first break down the natural components of the hair fibers. Similarly, straightening, relaxing, and permanent waving compositions also involve harsh chemicals to change the shape of the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in the hair fibers.
[0004] It is known that, although such processes effectively alter the color and shape of the hair, the chemical agents used inherently cause damage to the hair and negatively impact the strength, elasticity, and porosity of the hair fibers. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, straightened, straightened, wavy, repeatedly styled, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally appears unhealthy to the touch and appearance. In addition, damaged hair is brittle and / or has increased elasticity, resulting in more frequent hair breakage. As such, consumers are seeking compositions and processes to prevent or minimize such damage and / or to repair hair that has been damaged by these treatments and processes. In particular, consumers desire hair that is strong, does not break easily, can be stretched or manipulated while retaining the ability to return to its original state without breaking (i.e., reduced elasticity), feels soft and healthy, and also looks shiny and healthy.
[0005] However, it has proven difficult to formulate compositions that satisfactorily address these desires. For example, some compositions that attempt to address the problem simply coat the hair with compounds that can improve the feel and appearance of the hair; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Rather than preventing or repairing hair damage, this approach simply masks the damage until the next rinse or wash. Other compositions attempt to treat the damage within the hair fiber, but have not been satisfactory to date.
[0006] The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is surprisingly effective in preventing or minimizing hair damage and treating damaged hair. Hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure exhibits surprisingly reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity, particularly hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc. SUMMARY
[0007] The present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating keratin fibers, e.g., human hair, for example, to prevent, minimize, or repair hair damage such as damage caused by harsh chemical compositions and processes. The compositions comprise a synergistic combination of one or more amino acids, one or more osmolytes, and one or more carboxylic acids, and the methods comprise applying a composition according to the disclosure to keratin fibers, e.g., hair that has been or will be chemically treated. The compositions are surprisingly stable with long-lasting texture even when subjected to elevated temperatures.
[0008] In various embodiments, the disclosure relates to compositions for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, the compositions comprising (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, (d) at least one cationic surfactant, and (e) at least one solvent. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7 or less than about 6, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. The compositions are surprisingly stable.
[0009] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from basic amino acids, for example, arginine, histidine, lysine, their salts or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, most preferably from about 3% to about 7%, most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from acidic or neutral amino acids and their salts, for example, serine.In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and / or neutral amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic and / or neutral amino acids, for example the compositions may comprise arginine and serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids and their salts present in the composition ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, most preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0010] In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (particularly alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more thereof.
[0011] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from the compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, most preferably from about 1.5% to about 3%, most preferably from about 2% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of osmolytes which is equal to or greater than about 0.5, for example greater than about 1, preferably ranging from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably ranging from about 1.5 to about 3, most preferably ranging from about 1.75 to about 2.5, most preferably ranging from about 1.75 to about 2.25.
[0012] In various embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid is selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. Optionally, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts may range from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 3% to about 12%, most preferably from about 4% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.
[0013] The compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The cationic surfactants may, for example, be selected from salts of optionally polyoxyalkylated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts or combinations of two or more thereof. Useful quaternary ammonium salts include those of formulae (III)-(VI), for example, cetrimonium chloride and / or behentrimonium chloride, and useful fatty amine salts include, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.Optionally, the total amount of cationic surfactants may range from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 6%, and more preferably from about 2% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of [amino acids and salts thereof + osmolytes] to the total amount of cationic surfactants of greater than about 1 and up to about 20, for example from about 1 to about 10, preferably from about 1.25 to about 8, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 6, plus . preferably still from about 1.75 to about 5, and most preferably from about 2 to about 4.
[0014] The solvent included in the composition may comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent, and in some embodiments comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent. Optionally, the compositions comprise water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, and have a total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0015] The compositions may optionally also include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, additional surfactants such as amphoteric surfactants, thickening agents or combinations thereof.
[0016] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise (a) at least one amino acid and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine, preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount of about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts, (d) at least one cationic surfactant, (e) at least one solvent, and (f) optionally at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, additional surfactants, thickening agents or combinations thereof. For example, in at least some embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example, ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts, for example, arginine, serine, their salts, or combinations thereof, to the total amount of betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II) and their salts, for example, glycine betaine, which is greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to . the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts which is greater than about 0.5 such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of [amino acids and their salts + osmolytes] to the total amount of cationic surfactants which is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, and up to about 20, for example from about 1 to about 10, preferably from about 1.25 to about 8, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 6, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 5, and most preferably from about 2 to about 4.
[0017] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one carboxylic amino acid or one of its salts, preferably selected from arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably selected from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or its salts, (d) at least one cationic surfactant, and (e) water.The composition may comprise, for example, (a) from about 4% to about 6% arginine and / or a salt thereof, (b) from about 0.5% to about 3.5% glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or their salts, (d) at least one cationic surfactant, (e) water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, and (f) optionally serine, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 2% to about 10%, and all amounts being expressed by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to glycine betaine of greater than 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, even more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts that is greater than about 0.5 such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of [amino acids and their salts + osmolytes] to the total amount of cationic surfactants that is greater. from about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, and up to about 20, for example from about 1 to about 10, preferably from about 1.25 to about 8, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 6, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 5, and most preferably from about 2 to about 4. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, additional surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. If present, the compositions comprise serine in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1%, and most preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.When the compositions comprise serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of total amino acids to serine of greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 15, more preferably from about 4 to about 14, more preferably from about 6 to about 13, and most preferably from about 8 to about 12. When the compositions comprise serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of glycine betaine to serine of greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 10, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, more preferably from about 3.5 to about 7, and most preferably from about 4 to about 6.
[0018] The disclosure further relates to methods of treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising applying a composition according to the disclosure to the keratin fibers. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0019] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] is a graph showing the elasticity of hair fibers of strands S17-S21 after five treatments.
[0020] [Fig.2A]-[Fig.2B] Figures 2A-2B are graphs showing the constraint of breakage of hair fibers treated with compositions according to the disclosure and comparative compositions.
[0021] [Fig.3A]-[Fig.3B] Figures 3A-3B show the structure of some osmolytes copies which may be included in compositions according to the disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0022] The disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example to repair damaged keratin fibers, provide strength to the keratin fibers and / or reduce the elasticity of the keratin fibers. The compositions are surprisingly stable with long-lasting texture even when subjected to high temperatures. I. COMPOSITIONS
[0023] The compositions according to the present disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, (d) at least one cationic surfactant and (e) at least one solvent. The compositions may optionally comprise one or more additional components. Amino acids
[0024] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may comprise one, two or three amino acids. Amino acids that may be selected include those that are basic, acidic or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one basic amino acid.
[0025] As used herein, the term "amino acid" includes aminocarboxylic acids and their salts as well as aminosulfonic acids and their salts. As used herein, amino acids are understood to be organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) (aminocarboxylic acids) and / or sulfonic acid group (-S(=O)2-OH) (aminosulfonic acids) and an amino group (-NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intracyclic, as well as a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.
[0026] Amino carboxylic acids that may be selected include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more thereof. Examples of aminosulfonic acids include aminomethane sulfonic acid, 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoluene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more of these.
[0027] Amino acid salts are also included in the term "amino acid", whether indicated or not. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be selected include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; salts of alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts.
[0028] Further, the amino acids may be of D-, L-, or DL- configuration. In certain preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to select amino acids of L- configuration, for example, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0029] In certain embodiments, it is particularly advantageous to select one or more aminocarboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I): COOH (I) H....... C ........N(H), R
[0030] in which:
[0031] - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and
[0032] • when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, the latter possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or alkyl (C1-C4); or
[0033] • when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C1-C12) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (C1-C4), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
[0034] In certain embodiments when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this ring not being substituted.
[0035] In certain embodiments when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or an imidazole ring. In certain embodiments, p is preferably 2.
[0036] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (particularly alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), or combinations thereof. two or more thereof. In at least some embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of or consist of amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (particularly alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0037] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or its salts.In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or its salts. In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and / or its salts. In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or their salts.
[0038] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids may range from about 0.1% to about 15%, such as from about 0.1% to about 12%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5.5%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4.5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3.5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 12%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5.5%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4.5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1,5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5.5%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2.5%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 12%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5.5%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4.5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3.5%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2% to about 2.5%, from about 2.5% to about 15%, from about 2.5% to about 12%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2,5% to about 5.5%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4.5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3.5%, from about 2.5% to about 3%, from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 3% to about 9%, from about 3% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, from about 3% to about 5.5%, from about 3% to about 5%, from about 3% to about 4.5%, from about 3% to about 4%, from about 3% to about 3.5%, from about 3.5% to about 15%, from about 3.5% to about 12%, from about 3.5% to about 10%, from about 3.5% to about 9%, from about 3.5% to about 8%, from about 3.5% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6%, from about 3.5% to about 5.5%, from about 3.5% to about 5%, from about 3.5% to about 4.5%, from about 3.5% to about 4%, from about 4% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 12%, from about 4% to about 10%,from about 4% to about 9%, from about 4% to about 8%, from about 4% to about 7%, from about 4% to about 6%, , from about 4% to about 5.5%, from about 4% to about 5%, from about 4% to about 4.5%, from about 4.5% to about 15%, from about 4.5% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 9%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 4.5% to about 7%, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or from about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or from about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.For example, the total amount of amino acids may be about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of basic amino acids within any of the foregoing ranges and amounts.
[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise arginine and / or a salt thereof. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present, for example, arginine comprises more than about 50%, such as more than about 60%, more than about 70%, more than about 80%, more than about 90%, more than about 95%, more than about 98%, or more than about 99% of all amino acids present in the composition. In another preferred embodiment, arginine is the only basic amino acid in the composition.
[0040] In various preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10%, for example from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, even more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0041] In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise serine and / or a salt thereof. If present, the amount of serine may range from about 0.01% to about 2%, such as from about 0.01% to about 1.5%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, from about 0.01% to about 0.4%, from about 0.01% to about 0.3%, from about 0.01% to about 0.2%, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, from about 0.05% to about 2%, from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 0.5%, from about 0.05% to about 0.4%, from about 0.05% to about 0.3%, from about 0.05% to about 0.2%, from about 0.05% to about 0.1%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1% or from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.For example, in certain preferred embodiments, the compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as about 0.1%, about 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0042] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in the compositions according to the disclosure, and to select total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the composition has a weight ratio of total basic amino acids to total serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6. For example, the composition may have a weight ratio of total basic amino acids to total serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, such as from about 4 to about 14, from about 6 to about 13, from about 8 to about 12, or from about 9 to about 11. In other examples, the weight ratio of total basic amino acids to serine may be from about 8, from about 9, about 10, about 11 or about 12.In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises serine and has a weight ratio of total basic amino acids to serine of from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0043] In still further preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits. Osmolytes
[0044] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example, in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include aminocarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts, and their derivatives, carbohydrates such as sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethylsulfonopropionate), and urea. For the purposes of this disclosure, "osmolytes" include aminocarboxylic acid derivatives, aminosulfonic acid derivatives, and salts of the derivatives (collectively referred to herein as "amino acid derivatives"), but do not include the aminocarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, or their salts that are described above, and do not include polyols.
[0045] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise more than one osmolyte. While not wishing to be theorized, it is believed that the use of osmolytes according to the disclosure allows treated hair to maintain a moisture balance, thereby reducing potential hair damage, or to restore a moisture balance to already damaged hair, thereby allowing the treated hair to regain reduced strength and / or elasticity associated with healthy hair.
[0046] In preferred embodiments, the useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) or its salts:
[0047] (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II)
[0048] in which:
[0049] - RI, R2 and R3 are independently chosen from C1-C4 alkyl groups, preferably C1-C2 alkyl groups, more preferably methyl;
[0050] - A is N or S;
[0051] - m and n are independently 0 or 1;
[0052] - X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and
[0053] - Y is -COO- or -OSO3-;
[0054] provided that:
[0055] • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2;
[0056] • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (in C1-C8) saturated, linear or branched, preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl group; and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, this ring possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl; and
[0057] • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.
[0058] Useful and non-limiting polyamine compounds may comprise primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. For example, polyamines that may be selected include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polyamines or polymeric polyamines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinylamine, polyetheramine, polylysine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, useful polyamines are selected from putrescine, spermidine, and / or spermine.
[0059] Useful and non-limiting examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Betaine salts may also be used and are expressly included in the term "betaine" unless otherwise expressly indicated. In particularly preferred embodiments, the betaines are selected from those corresponding to formula (II). Examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in Figures 3A-3B). As shown in [Fig. 3A], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) are in zwitterionic form, and as shown in [Fig. 3B], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X. The counterion is not limited and may be any suitable counterion, for example, a chloride ion, a bromide ion, an iodide ion, a sulfate anion, a sulfonate anion, a methyl sulfate anion, a phosphate anion, a nitrate anion, etc.Thus, as used herein, a "compound of formula (II)" expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound as well as the salt forms, whether or not specified.
[0060] As shown in Figures 3A and 3B, examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as "betaines"), e.g., valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine and / or sulfoniopropionate dimethyl. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).
[0061] In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more compounds of formula (II) i.e. a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising in total from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0062] In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R1 = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In certain other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R3 is methyl. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino. In still further preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene. In still further preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R4 and R5, which may be the same or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C10) alkyl group, preferably (C1-C6) alkyl, more preferably (C1-C4) alkyl; a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono or bicyclic);a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono or bicyclic) substituted by an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is a hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched alkyl (C1-C6), more preferably an alkyl (C1-C4);optionally substituted with a group selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH or -C0NH2. In certain preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted with a hydroxy group. In other preferred embodiments, RI = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if applicable) is a divalent alkyl group which may be straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms. ;
[0063] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino, more preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by a hydroxy group.
[0064] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures 3A-3B). In more preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise trimethylglycine (name interchangeable with glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).
[0065] Useful and non-limiting examples of carbohydrate sugars that may be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example, pentoses and / or derivatives thereof, or hexoses and / or derivatives thereof. For example, the sugars may optionally be selected from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxy-ribose, ribulose, deoxy-ribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are selected from disaccharides, e.g., sucrose (also saccharose), maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from polysaccharides, e.g., maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more thereof.In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably selected from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0066] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may range from about 0.01% to about 15%, for example, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%,from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, , from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2.25% to about 10%, from about 2.25% to about 9%, from about 2.25% to about 8%, from about 2.25% to about 7%, from about 2.25% to about 6%, from about 2.25% to about 5%, from about 2.25% to about 4%, from about 2.25% to about 3%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may be about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0067] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be from about 2.0%, from about 2.1%, from about 2.2%, from about 2.3%, from about 2.4%, from about 2.5%, from about 2.6%, from about 2.7%, from about 2.8%, from about 2.9%, from about 3 ... %, or about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0068] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or the glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0069] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select the amounts of amino acids and osmolytes so as to obtain a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts in the composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the composition greater than about 0.1, for example, greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts to the total amount of osmolytes may range from about 0.1 to about 10, for example, from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5.In other embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts to the total amount of osmolytes may range from greater than 1 to about 4, for example from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) in the composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0070] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids selected from compounds of formula (I) and a total amount of osmolytes selected from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I) to compounds of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example, from about 1 to about 4, from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2.For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1, about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0071] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example, from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine, serine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. Carboxylic acids
[0072] The compositions according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the compositions may comprise at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that include, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-) or more acid functional groups and at least one carbon atom;
[0073] The carboxylic acids that may be used may optionally have a molecular weight of less than about 500 g / mol, less than about 400 g / mol, less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight of less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol.
[0074] Salts of carboxylic acids may also be used and are expressly included in the term "carboxylic acid" unless expressly stated otherwise. Salts include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in certain embodiments, and in particular sodium salts.
[0075] In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or one of their salts. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds described above. Useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acid or salified form); thus they may comprise a single -COOH group (monoacid) or may comprise more than one, for example two -COOH groups (in acid or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form) (polyacids). Useful (poly)acids also comprise at least one -OH group, such as one to three or two to three -OH groups, for example one, two or three -OH groups. Preferably, the (poly)acids comprise a total of 2 to 8 or 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear.In certain preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 3 to 6 carbon atoms, one to three -OH groups, and two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salt form). Unless otherwise indicated, as used herein, the term "(poly)acid" includes both monobasic and polybasic acids.
[0076] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that may be selected include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or a salt thereof.
[0077] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that may be selected include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0078] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or a salt thereof.
[0079] In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are chosen from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts. In certain embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to choose citric acid, lactic acid and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.
[0080] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) may range from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 1% to about 15%, such as from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5.5%, from about 1,5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2.5%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 12%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5.5%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4.5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3.5%, from about 2% to about 3 %, from about 2% to about 2.5%, from about 2.5% to about 15%, from about 2.5% to about 12%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5.5%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4.5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2,5% to about 3.5%, from about 2.5% to about 3%, from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 3% to about 9%, from about 3% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, from about 3% to about 5.5%, from about 3% to about 5%, from about 3% to about 4.5%, from about 3% to about 4%, , from about 3% to about 3.5%, from about 3.5% to about 15%, from about 3.5% to about 12%, from about 3.5% to about 10%, from about 3.5% to about 9%, from about 3.5% to about 8%, from about 3.5% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6%, from about 3.5% to about 5.5%, from about 3.5% to about 5%, from about 3.5% to about 4.5%, from about 3.5% to about 4%, from about 4% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 12%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4% to about 9%, from about 4% to about 8%, from about 4% to about 7%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4% to about 5.5%, from about 4% to about 5%, from about 4% to about 4.5%, from about 4.5% to about 15%, from about 4.5% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 9%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 4.5% to about 7%, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.5% to about 5%, from about 5% to about 15%,from about 5% to about 12%, from about 5% to about 10%, from about 5% to about 9%, from about 5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5% to about 6.5%, from about 5% to about 6%, from about 5% to about 5.5%, from about 5.5% to about 15%, from about 5.5% to about 12%, from about 5.5% to about 10%, from about 5.5% to about 9%, from about 5.5% to about 8%, from about 5.5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.5% to about 6%, from about 6% to about 15%, from about 6% to about 12%, from about 6% to about 10%, from about 6% to about 9%, from about 6% to about 8%, from about 6% to about 7%, or from about 6% to about 6.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0081] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, for example from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0082] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose amounts of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.1, greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, for example, from about 0.8 to about 1.5, from about 0.8 to about 1.35, or from about 0.8 to about 1.2.In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.2. Cationic surfactants
[0083] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more cationic surfactants. The presence of active components such as amino acids and osmolytes causes destabilization of the compositions in which they are present, but it has been discovered that the inclusion of cationic surfactants in the compositions in a weight ratio of [osmolytes + amino acids]:cationic surfactants greater than about 0.5, preferably greater than about 0.75, more preferably greater than about 1, provides stability to the compositions.
[0084] The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the composition(s) according to the disclosure. This cationic surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functionalities that are cationizable in the composition. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants that may be used include salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and combinations thereof.
[0085] Non-limiting examples of useful fatty amine salts include oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamido-propylidiethylamine, arachidamidoethylidiethylamine, arachidamidoethylidiidi-methylamine, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant comprises stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0086] As quartenary ammonium salts, quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III) may be chosen:
[0087] in which:
[0088] - the groups R8 to RI 1 are independently chosen from aliphatic groups linear or branched containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, it being possible for the linear or branched aliphatic groups to include heteroatoms such as, for example, oxygen, nitrogen and / or sulfur, these heteroatoms not being adjacent, and halogens; and
[0089] - X is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides such as bromides, chlorides, iodides, fluorides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, C1-C4 alkyl sulfonates or C1-C4 alkylaryl sulfonates; C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, C12-C22 alkyl-C2-C6 alkylamido, C12-C22 alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl.
[0090] Examples of embodiments of formula (III) include tetraalkylammonium halides, such as chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. By way of example, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (behentrimonium chloride), distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (cetrimonium chloride) or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride may be chosen.
[0091] Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium halides, such as chlorides, for example the product sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.
[0092] In certain embodiments, the cationic surfactants of formula (III) are preferably selected from alkyltrimethylammonium halides whose alkyl group includes from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. For example, alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, may be particularly useful.
[0093] In other embodiments, imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) may be selected: ? T < IV ) $3 .'üX J
[0094] in which:
[0095] - R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
[0096] - RI3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a group alkenyl or alkyl comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
[0097] - R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
[0098] - R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and
[0099] - X is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, C1-C4 alkyl acetates, lactates, sulfates, and C1-C4 alkyl sulfonates or C1-C4 alkylaryl sulfonates.
[0100] In an exemplary embodiment of formula (IV), R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.
[0101] In still other embodiments, di- or triquaterary ammonium salts of formula (V) may be chosen: rr (V)
[0102] in which:
[0103] - R16 represents an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
[0104] - R17 represents hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon, or a group —(CH2)3—N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a),
[0105] - R16a, R17a and R18a, which may be the same or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0106] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be the same or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
[0107] - X is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, C1-C4 alkyl sulfates and C1-C4 alkyl sulfonates and C1-C4 alkylaryl sulfonates, e.g. methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
[0108] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, (Quaternium 75), sold by the company Finetex.
[0109] In still other embodiments, quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (VI) may be chosen: (VI> ; x.{.\
[0110] in which:
[0111] - R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl groups or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl,
[0112] - R23 is selected from the group R26—C(=O)—, hydrocarbon-based groups C1-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and a hydrogen atom,
[0113] - R25 is selected from the group R28—C(=O)—; hydrocarbon-based groups C1-C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and a hydrogen atom,
[0114] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched groups, based on C7-C21 hydrocarbons,
[0115] - r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
[0116] - rl and tl, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1,
[0117] - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
[0118] - x and z, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, and
[0119] - X is an anion,
[0120] where r2 + rl = 2r and tl +12 = 2t, and the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0, R23 is selected from C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, and that when z = 0, then R25 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon group.
[0121] In exemplary embodiments of formula (VI), the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and are preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and, more particularly, a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 10. When R23 is a C1-C22 hydrocarbon group, it may preferably comprise either 12 to 22 carbon atoms or 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be the same or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are 0 or 1. Optionally, y is 1.Preferably, r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and optionally equal to 2.
[0122] The anion X is preferably a halide, optionally a chloride, a bromide or an iodide, a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate or a C1-C4 alkyl-aryl sulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium carrying an ester function. The anion X- is preferably a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.
[0123] For example, ammonium salts of formula (VI) in which R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2, R23 is selected from the group R26-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups; and a hydrogen atom, R25 is selected from the group R28—C(=O)—; and a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be the same or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, may be selected. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
[0124] Among the compounds of formula (VI), mention may be made of salts, in particular salts of methyl chloride or sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, as well as mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or oil sunflower. When the compound contains multiple acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.
[0125] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with mixtures especially of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), a methyl methanesulfonate, a methyl para-toluenesulfonate, a glycol chlorohydrin or a glycerol chlorohydrin.
[0126] The one or more cationic surfactants may be selected, for example, from a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts, with a major part by weight of diester salts. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group may also be used. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may also be used. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
[0127] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behenrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quaternium-14), Quatemium-22 hectorite, Quaternium-26, Quatemium-18, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, POE (10) diethanolammonium oleyl ether phosphate, POE (3)oleyl ether diethanolammonium phosphate, tallow alkonia chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammonium bentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride,laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine hydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, sulftrimonium chloride, bromide, hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0128] In preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines and / or one or more quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III). In particularly preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0129] The total amount of cationic surfactants ranges from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may range from about 0.5% to about 10%, including about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 1% to about 10%, about 1% to about 8%, about 1% to about 6%, about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 4%, about 1% to about 3%, about 1.5% to about 10%, about 1.5% to about 8%, about 1.5% to about 6%, about 1.5% to about 5%, about 1.5% to about 4%, or about 1.5% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0130] In some embodiments, it may be preferable to select amounts of osmolytes, amino acids, and cationic surfactants relative to one another to provide stability to the compositions. Thus, in preferred embodiments, the composition comprises a total amount of osmolytes, amino acids, and cationic surfactants such that the composition has a weight ratio of [osmolytes + amino acids]:cationic surfactants that is greater than about 0.5, preferably greater than about 0.75, more preferably greater than about 1, for example, ranging from about 1 to about 20, from about 1.5 to about 18, from about 1.7 to about 15, from about 2 to about 12, from about 2.5 to about 10, or from about 3 to about 8.In other preferred embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of [osmolytes + amino acids]:cationic surfactants ranging from about 1 to about 10, from about 1.25 to about 8, from about 1.5 to about 6, from about 1.75 to about 5, or from about 2 to about 4.
[0131] In particularly preferred embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of betaines, preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (II) + basic amino acids]: cationic surfactants which is greater than about 0.5, preferably greater than about 0.75, more preferably greater than about 1, for example ranging from about 1 to about 20, from about 1.5 to about 18, from about 1.7 to about 15, from about 2 to about 12, from about 2.5 to about 10, or from about 3 to about 8, or from about 1 to about 10, from about 1.25 to about 8, from about 1.5 to about 6, from about 1.75 to about 5, or from about 2 to about 4. In even more preferred embodiments, the composition has a [glycine betaine + arginine]:cationic surfactant weight ratio that is greater than about 1, for example, from about 1 to about 20, from about 1.5 to about 18, from about 1.7 to about 15, from about 2 to about 12, from about 2.5 to about 10, or from about 3 to about 8, or from about 1 to about 10, from about 1.25 to about 8, from about 1.5 to about 6, from about 1.75 to about 5, or from about 2 to about 4. Solvents
[0132] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one solvent. In various embodiments, the solvents may be selected from water, non-aqueous solvents or a combination thereof.
[0133] In some embodiments, the solvent includes water. In some embodiments, the composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% water, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 95% water by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, from about 55% to about 90%, from about 60% to about 90%, or from about 60% to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0134] In other embodiments, the solvent may include at least one non-aqueous solvent. Non-limiting examples of non-aqueous solvents that may be used include, for example, glycerin, C1-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, lamellar lipid materials, or combinations thereof.The non-aqueous solvent may be selected from organic solvents, for example monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether.
[0135] Preferably, the compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols may be selected from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2- C12, C2-C8 polyols or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that may be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted polyols. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols may be selected from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 triols, any of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.
[0136] By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol, may be chosen.In some embodiments, the polyols may be selected from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol, or combinations of two or more thereof.In some preferred embodiments, the polyols are selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin, or combinations of two or more thereof.In at least some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises(comprise), consists essentially of, or consists of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, e.g., C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols. In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises(comprise), consists essentially of, or consists of one or more glycols, e.g., propylene glycol. glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises(comprise), consists essentially of, or consists of dipropylene glycol.
[0137] If present, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents in the composition may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, for example from about 1% to about 20%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, or from about 2% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In certain preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably selected from polyols.In some embodiments, the composition comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 11%, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and optionally further wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more thereof, preferably selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more of these. Additional surfactants
[0138] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally comprise at least one surfactant in addition to the cationic surfactants, for example at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include derivatives of secondary and tertiary aliphatic amines where the aliphatic radical may be straight or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.
[0139] Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium masamphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium masamphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium masamphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium masamphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocaminopropionate, triethanolamine cocaminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanolamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine cocoamphopropionate, triethanolamine masamphopropionate, triethanolamine lauraminopropionate, triethanolamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanolamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanolamine masamphopropionate, triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphoadipropionate,disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, laurylaminopropylglycine and lauryldiethylenediaminoglycine.
[0140] Betaine-based surfactants can also be used. For example, cocodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, cetyldimethyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethyl betaine, stearylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethyl betaine, oleyldimethylgamma-carboxypropyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropyl betaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine or cocamidopropyl betaine may be selected.
[0141] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may range from about 0.001% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants.
[0142] Although the compositions may optionally include one or more anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments, the compositions comprise less than about 3%, e.g., less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1%, less than 0.75%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.25%, less than 0.2%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, less than 0.01%, or less than 0.001% of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants. Fatty compounds
[0143] Optionally, the compositions according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0144] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be aminofunctionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that may be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone and stearoxytrimethylsilane.For example, the composition may comprise at least one silicone selected from amodimethicone, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, or a mixture of two or more thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a silicone oil that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
[0145] As further examples, the silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethyl-siloxysilicates.
[0146] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or more, such as, for example, C8 or more, C10 or more, or C12 or more, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated or unalkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0147] For example, the fatty alcohols may be selected from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
[0148] Useful and non-limiting fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include dibasic, tribasic, and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0149] In some embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be chosen. Esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10, may be used for example. In other embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxyalcohols may also be used. As non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methylacetyl ricinoleate, myristyl stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate,diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoylstearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, trioctanoate glyceryl, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be selected. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or a fatty alcohol ester,for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0150] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of waxes that may be used include beeswax, hydrogenated olive alkyl esters, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugarcane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated palm kernel glycerides / palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, siliconyl candellila wax, China wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax;triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes and polyethylene waxes obtained by the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures thereof; two or more of any of these waxes. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a wax component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl esters.
[0151] In some embodiments, the composition comprises one or more fatty compounds selected from oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin (e.g., lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, bancoul nut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, safflower oil or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (e.g., polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, and / or linear alkanes,branched and / or cyclic fatty acids which are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane), optionally branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids (for example, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid), fatty alcohols other than those described above (for example, alkoxylated fatty alcohols), mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols (for example, mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyol polyesters, C5-C9 dipentaerythrityl esters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters or oil polyesters hydrogenated castor oil), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils,or mixtures of two or more thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids that may be used include optionally branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, or mixtures of two or more thereof.
[0152] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, for example from about 1% to about 20%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, or from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one fatty compound selected from silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes or combinations thereof, wherein the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 15%, more preferably from about 3% to about 12%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents
[0153] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally comprise at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers, and acrylate / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymers, acrylate copolymers, polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEL10), natural polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, related particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, celluloses such as hydroethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and guars such as hydroxypropyl guar.
[0154] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylates copolymer and acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer.
[0155] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01% to about 8%, for example from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components
[0156] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.
[0157] The total amount of auxiliary components, if present, is generally between about 0.01% and about 10% of the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the individual amounts of each component or the total amount of components may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3% or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0158] The compositions of the disclosure generally have a pH of less than or equal to 7, for example, less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, the compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, for example, from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all ranges and subranges therein.
[0159] The compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, the compositions may be a liquid, a gel, a cream-gel, a high, medium or low density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc. In preferred embodiments, the composition is a medium or high density cream, such as a hair mask (or mask). II. PROCESSES
[0160] The disclosure also relates to methods of treating keratin fibers, such as hair. The methods of treating hair may be methods of reducing or preventing damage to the hair, protecting the hair from damage, restoring the moisture balance of the hair fibers, providing strength to the hair fibers, improving the elasticity of the hair fibers, and / or maintaining the balance, strength, and / or elasticity of the hair fibers. In some embodiments, the methods of treating hair prevent hair damage from becoming too severe to repair, i.e., prevent irreversible hair damage.The methods include applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time (“treatment period”, “resting period” or “leave-on period”), and optionally rinsing the hair to remove the composition.
[0161] The laying period may last for a period deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the keratin fibers, such as about 30 seconds, about 1 minute, about 2 minutes, about 5 minutes, about 10 minutes, about 15 minutes, about 20 minutes, about 30 minutes, about 45 minutes, about 1 hour, about 2 hours, etc., or may extend over a period of time using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits. By way of non-limiting example, the exposure period may range from about 30 seconds to about 60 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 45 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 30 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 20 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 15 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 10 minutes, from about 30 seconds to about 5 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 45 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 20 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 15 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 10 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 5 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 60 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 45 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 30 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 20 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 15 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 10 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 5 minutes, etc.
[0162] In some embodiments, the composition may be left on the hair for a period of several hours, for example, overnight. Thus, the leave-on period may be up to about 24 hours, such as up to about 12 hours, for example, may be from about 1 hour to about 12 hours, from about 1 hour to about 10 hours, from about 1 hour to about 8 hours, from about 1 hour to about 6 hours, from about 1 hour to about 4 hours, from about 2 hours to about 12 hours, from about 2 hours to about 10 hours, from about 2 hours to about 8 hours, from about 2 hours to about 6 hours, from about 2 hours to about 4 hours, etc.
[0163] The methods of the disclosure include using the compositions described as a stand-alone treatment, or as part of a routine that includes one or more additional compositions or treatments. Although not required, various treatments using compositions of the disclosure may also include a step of heating the hair to which the composition has been applied, for example, during the resting period while the composition is on the hair. For example, a hair dryer, a hair dryer hood, etc., may be used.
[0164] For example, a composition according to the disclosure may be applied to hair to repair hair that has been previously damaged by chemical treatment, improve the overall health and appearance of hair, improve the elasticity of hair fibers, etc., by applying a composition to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate treatment time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then optionally drying and / or styling the hair according to the individual's routine. This type of treatment may, for example, be performed in a salon or at home on a weekly, bi-monthly, monthly, etc. basis to improve the health and overall appearance of hair.
[0165] In other exemplary embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure may be applied to the hair before, during, and / or after a treatment process that includes one or more other hair compositions. For example, such a routine may include applying a composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate treatment time, and then substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., within the same hair cleansing process), with or without intervening rinsing of the hair, shampooing the hair according to the individual's normal hair cleansing routine.Another such routine may include washing the hair with shampoo according to the person's usual hair cleansing routine, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., as part of the same hair cleansing process), with or without intervening rinsing of the hair, applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally before and / or after applying a conditioning composition to the hair.Yet another such routine may include conditioning the hair, for example, a deep conditioning treatment, and substantially immediately before and / or after (i.e., as part of the same hair conditioning process), with or without intervening rinsing of the hair, applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally with or without rinsing the hair between the steps of applying to the hair a conditioning composition and a composition according to the disclosure. Thus, it is contemplated that the compositions according to the disclosure may be incorporated into a hair cleansing and / or conditioning process.
[0166] In yet other exemplary embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure may be applied to the hair before, during, and / or after a chemical hair treatment process. For example, such a routine may include applying a composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate treatment time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., as part of the same chemical hair treatment process), with or without intervening rinsing of the hair, applying to the hair a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, or perming composition.Another such routine may include the application of a chemical treatment, such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing or perming composition, to the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., as part of the same treatment process. chemical hair treatment), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying to the hair a composition according to the disclosure. Thus, it is contemplated that the compositions according to the disclosure may be incorporated into a chemical hair treatment process, thereby reducing, minimizing or preventing damage to the hair that might otherwise result from such harsh chemical treatments.
[0167] Surprisingly, hair treated with compositions and methods according to the disclosure exhibits less damage than hair not treated with compositions and methods according to the disclosure. The reduction in damage is particularly notable on hair damaged due to harsh chemical treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc., as well as due to repeated styling, for example with heat or styling tools. Hair repaired using compositions and methods according to the disclosure may have lower elasticity and / or higher tensile strength than similarly damaged hair not treated according to the disclosure.
[0168] As used herein, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example in an aqueous solution.
[0169] In this application, the terms "keratin fibers" and "hair" are used interchangeably, without the intention of being limiting. A person skilled in the art will understand that keratin fibers include hair, such as hair growing from the scalp.
[0170] As used herein, the term "applying a composition to the hair", and variations thereof, is intended to mean contacting the hair with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner. It may also mean contacting the hair in an effective amount.
[0171] The term "treating the hair" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to applying the compositions of the present disclosure to the surface of the hair. The term "treating the hair" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting the hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.
[0172] Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, compositions may include less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.01%, less than about 0.001%, or less than about 0.0001% of the specified material. As such, it is contemplated that any component described herein for use in hair treatment compositions may be present in the compositions in amounts of less than about 5%, less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.01%, less than about 0.001%, or less than about 0.0001%, and the composition will be considered "substantially free" of such material. A composition that is "free" from a component is deemed to contain no amount of the specified component.However, it is understood that the terms "free" and "substantially free" refer to the amount of a component added to the composition, without including an amount of the component present in the composition as a minor component in a starting material. For example, a composition that is "free" of waxes may not have a wax included as an intended component, but may still contain a pigment coated with a wax, as such a wax would be considered a minor component of the pigment material and would not be expected to provide the benefits to the composition that would be expected by the inclusion of a wax per se as an intended component.
[0173] As used herein, a "stable" composition maintains a texture that is substantially unchanged, and exhibits minimal to no phase separation when stored at room temperature for at least one month, preferably at least two months, or at temperatures up to 45°C for at least two weeks. EXAMPLES
[0174] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active ingredients, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Compositions
[0175] Compositions 1A-1F according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 1.
[0176] [Table 1]TABLE 1 IA IB IC 1D 1E Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 Silicone oil(s) (dimethicone and / or amodimethicone) 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 1.0 Fatty alcohol(s) (stearyl alcohol and / or cetearyl alcohol) 4.5 4.5 6.0 5.0 6.0 Cetyl esters 1.0 Cationic surfactant(s) 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.5 1.6 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.1 1.1 1.1 0.2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.8 1.0 1.5 1.5 0.4 Auxiliary component(s) (pH regulators, preservatives, vitamins, extracts) <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS Measured pH 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 4.0 Weight ratio [amino acids + smolytes] Cationic surfactants 4.7 4.7 4.7 3.0 4.7
[0177] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of active components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine)) and yet were surprisingly stable due to the presence of cationic surfactants (cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and / or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine).
[0178] Example 2 - Assessment of damage repair
[0179] In order to evaluate the ability of the compositions according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent or repair hair damage, the following studies were conducted.
[0180] A comparative product, Cl, had the following list of ingredients on the packaging: Water (Aqua), Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, Propylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium-91, Sodium Benzoate, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Fragrance (Parfum), Tetrasodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-37, Benzyl Benzoate, Etidronic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Phytantriol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Panthenol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate. Composition Cl, which is described as a "treatment pre-shampoo hair conditioner that reduces breakage and split ends for visibly healthier hair,” is advertised as part of a system that claims it can “restore broken disulfide bonds damaged by chemical treatments, heat, and styling.” The instructions for composition Cl are to use the product before using the shampoo (“Cl-S”) and conditioner (“Cl-C”) that are part of this system, both of which include bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate as the listed active agent. Example 2A#- Ultra-bleached hair
[0181] Five strands (S17-S21) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (hydrogen peroxide 40V) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then four of the strands (S17-S20) were subjected to the following treatment routines (strand S21 did not undergo any treatment after rinsing the bleaching composition from the hair).
[0182] The S17 strand was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately thereafter, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0183] Strands S18 and S19 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all of the shampoo was removed. Immediately thereafter, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately thereafter, one of compositions 1D (S 18) or IB (S 19) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0184] Strand S20 was treated with composition C1 by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it so as to ensure that the hair was fully coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, the strand was cleansed with Cl-S shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, the Cl-C conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0185] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S17-S21 was studied, to evaluate the capacity of the compositions according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent or repair damage to the hair.
[0186] The evaluation was performed by stretching a standardized amount of wet hair fibers, with two experts independently evaluating each strand. The experts were trained to stretch the area of the strand being evaluated by uniformly applying manual pulling force using their hands / fingers. The strand behavior was ranked by each expert according to a 6-level scale as follows, with the result reported for each strand being the average of the two:
[0187] 0 = Natural, healthy hair (no damage);
[0188] 1 = low elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers exhibit a slight elasticity, returning to their initial state after testing);
[0189] 2 = moderate elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers exhibit a elasticity, returning to their initial state after the test);
[0190] 3 = High elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers exhibit elasticity and some hair fibers do not return to their initial state after testing);
[0191] 4 = Very high elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers exhibit elasticity and most hair fibers do not return to their original state after testing); and
[0192] 5 = Immediate breakage (when stretched, hair fibers exhibit a high elasticity and break during testing).
[0193] The results showed that the hair fibers of strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 1D and IB respectively, surprisingly had lower elasticity than the fibers of strands S17 and S20-S21 one day after the end of the treatment protocol ([Fig. 1]). In other words, the hair of strands S17 and S21 was damaged by the aggressive bleaching process, resulting in increased elasticity, the hair of strand S20 was damaged by the aggressive bleaching process but not repaired with the comparative treatment, resulting in elasticity increased, while damage to strands S18 and S19 had been repaired by treatment with compositions 1D and IB.
[0194] Second, the strength was evaluated using a Dia-Stron fiber tensile testing instrument called MTT (Miniature Tensile Tester). The results showed that the hair in strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 1D and IB respectively, was surprisingly stronger than the hair in strands S17 and S20-S21, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers in strands S18 and S19. [Fig. 2A] shows the breaking stress (MPa) for a control strand (CTL), consisting of the same hair but not bleached, strand S17, which was bleached but without further treatment, and strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 1D and IB respectively, and strand S20, treated with the comparative compositions. As shown in [Fig.2A], the breaking stress of the control strand (CTL) was more than double that of strand S17, demonstrating the significant damage caused by the bleaching process. After five (5) treatments with composition 1D (strand S18), IB (strand S19), or the comparative compositions (S20), the breaking stress of the treated strands was increased compared to strand S17. Surprisingly, the increase in breaking stress for strands S18 and S19 was considered statistically significant compared to that of strand S20, meaning that compositions 1D and IB repaired the hair to a greater extent than the comparative compositions.
[0195] Example 2B - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Elasticity
[0196] Four strands (S22-S25) of Caucasian hair that had been previously straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (hydrogen peroxide 40V) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed and, for a treatment period of five weeks, all four strands were subjected to the following routine twice a week.
[0197] First, the strands were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately thereafter, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, and allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes. minutes, then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in serum for hair straighteners were applied to the hair.
[0198] Three of the strands (S22-S24) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.
[0199] The S22 strand was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for a period of approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all of the shampoo was removed. A mask composition was applied to the hair and left on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately thereafter, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0200] The S23 strand was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately thereafter, the IC composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a period of about five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately thereafter, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0201] Strand S24 was treated with composition C1 by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it so as to ensure that the hair was fully coated. Composition C1 was left on the hair for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately thereafter, the strand was cleansed with shampoo C1-S by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for a period of approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately thereafter, conditioner C1-C was applied to the strand and distributed so as to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in serum for hair straighteners were applied to the hair.
[0202] After the five-week treatment period, the elasticity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S22-S25 was studied in the same manner as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of strand S23, treated with composition IC, had lower elasticity than the fibers of any of the strands S22 or S24-S25.
[0203] Example 2C - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Resistance
[0204] Four strands (S26-S29) of Caucasian hair that had been previously straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (hydrogen peroxide 40V) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleach powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed and, during a treatment period of five weeks, all four strands were subjected to the following routine.
[0205] First, the strands were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to sit on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately thereafter, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to sit for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0206] Three of the strands (S27-S29) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.
[0207] Strands S27 and S28 were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for a period of about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. One of compositions IB (S28) or 1D (S27) was applied to the hair and left on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately thereafter, a commercially available conditioning composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0208] The strand S29 was treated with the composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it so as to ensure that the hair was fully coated. The composition Cl was left on the hair for a resting period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately thereafter, the strand was cleansed with shampoo Cl-S by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to remain on the strand for a period of approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately thereafter, the conditioner Cl-C was applied to the strand and distributed so as to ensure that the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a period of approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in hair straightener serum were applied to the hair.
[0209] The MTT tests were carried out in the same manner as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair in strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 1D and IB respectively, was surprisingly stronger than the hair in strands S26 or S29, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers in strands S27 and S28. [Fig. 2B] shows the breaking stress (MPa) for a control strand (CTL), consisting of the same hair but not bleached, strand S26, which was bleached but without further treatment, and strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 1D and IB respectively, and strand S29, treated with the comparative compositions. [Fig. 2B] the breaking stress of the control strand (CTL) was approximately three times that of strand S26, showing the significant damage caused by the bleaching process.After five (5) treatments with composition IB (wick S28), 1D (wick S27), the breaking stress of the treated wicks was increased compared to wick S26, and the improvement was considered statistically significant. [Fig.2B] however shows that the breaking stress of the wick treated with the comparative composition (S29) did not show any improvement in breaking stress.
[0210] Examples 2A-2C thus demonstrate that treating hair that has been damaged by aggressive chemical processes with a composition according to the disclosure surprisingly repairs the damage. The damage repair achieved with compositions according to the disclosure is also surprisingly superior to that achieved with a commercial product that claims to do the same. Example 3 - Compositions
[0211] Compositions 2A-2F according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 2.
[0212] [Table 2]TABLE 2 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E 2F Basic amino acid(s) 5.50 5.50 3.80 3.80 5.00 5.00 Thickening agent(s) 0.30 0.90 0.90 1.00 Non-ionic surfactant(s) 0.30 1.50 0.50 0.50 0.30 0.30 Amphoteric surfactant(s) 0.30 0.50 0.50 Revitalizing agent(s) 0.80 2.64 1.20 Cationic surfactant(s) 2.10 3.84 3.00 3.00 4.40 3.00 Glycine betaine 2.50 2.50 1.80 1.80 2.50 2.50 Citric acid 6.00 6.00 5.50 5.50 6.15 6.06 Wax(s) 0.50 0.50 Fatty alcohol(s) 6.30 6.30 6.00 12.0 Vegetable oil(s) 0.50 Fatty acid ester(s) 2.50 1.50 2.00 0.70 Additives (preservatives, perfume) <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS QS Weight ratio [amino acids + osmolytes]: cationic surfactants 3.8 2.1 1.9 1.9 1.7 2.5
[0213] Compositions 2A-2F, which contained a synergistic combination of active components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine)) and were stable due to the presence of cationic surfactants (cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and / or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine), were also expected to minimize, prevent and / or repair hair damage. The compositions were also expected to improve the elasticity and tensile strength of the treated hair fibers. Example 4#- Additional compositions
[0214] The following compositions according to the disclosure may be prepared and are expected to be similarly stable and minimize, prevent or repair damage to hair. The compositions are also expected to improve the elasticity and tensile strength of the treated hair fibers.
[0215] [Table 3]TABLE 3 3A 3B 3C 3D 3E Arginine 2.0 9.8 2.5 Lysine 2.5 2.0 10 Valine betaine 2.0 4.5 2.0 1.0 4.0 Citric acid 3.0 2.0 9.8 Lactic acid 2.0 10 2.0 Serine 0.05 0.5 0.05 0.5 Fatty compound(s) 10 8.0 9.0 15 Cationic surfactant(s) 3.0 3.0 0.5 2.5 5.0 Additional component(s) (e.g. pH adjusters, vitamins, preservatives, extracts, thickeners) <5 <5 <5 <5 <5 Solvent(s) (water and / or non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS Weight ratio [amino acids + smolytes]: cationic surfactants 1.3 4.8 14 1.2 2.8
[0216] The above examples demonstrate that the synergistic combination of active components (carboxylic acids, osmolytes and amino acids) according to the disclosure surprisingly and unexpectedly repairs hair that has been damaged, and prevents or minimizes damage to the hair. The cationic surfactants surprisingly provide stability to the compositions despite the presence of relatively high amounts of these active components.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising: a) at least one compound selected from amino acids or their salts; b) at least one osmolyte; c) at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; d) at least one cationic surfactant and e) water, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of [amino acids and salts thereof + osmolytes] to the total amount of cationic surfactants is greater than about 0.5, and the pH of the composition is less than 7.
2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising a) at least one amino acid chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or their salts: COOH (I) HCN(H)PR in which: - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and • when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or alkyl (C1-C4); or • when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, comprising d) at least one cationic surfactant selected from polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, or combinations of two or more thereof.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising d) at least one cationic surfactant selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising d) at least one cationic surfactant chosen from the compounds of formula (III): M <in) X' dans laquelle : - les groupes R8 à RI 1 sont choisis indépendamment parmi les groupes aliphatiques linéaires ou ramifiés contenant de 1 à 30 atomes de carbone, ou un groupe aromatique tel qu'aryle ou alkylaryle, au moins l’un des groupes R8 à RI 1 incluant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, tel que de 12 à 24 atomes de carbone, étant possible que les groupes aliphatiques linéaires ou ramifiés incluent des hétéroatomes tels que, par exemple, l’oxygène, l’azote et / ou le soufre, ces hétéroatomes n’étant pas adjacents, et les halogènes ; et - X est un anion choisi dans le groupe consistant en halogénures tels que bromures, chlorures, iodures, fluorures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, sulfates d’alkyle en C1-C4, sulfonates d’alkyle en C1-C4 ou sulfonates d’alkylaryle en C1-C4 ;C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, C12-C22 alkyl-C2-C6 alkylamido, C12-C22 alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.;
6. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the total amount of cationic surfactants ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 6%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the weight ratio between the total amount of [acids amines and their salts + osmolytes] and the total amount of cationic surfactants ranges from about 1 to about 10, preferably from about 1.25 to about 8, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 6, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 5.
8. A composition according to claims 1 to 7, comprising c) at least one compound selected from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof.
9. A method of treating keratin fibers, the method comprising: a. applying to the keratin fibers the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8; and b. optionally rinsing the keratin fibers.
10. A method according to claim 9, which is a method of reducing or preventing hair damage or breakage, protecting hair from damage, restoring the moisture balance of hair fibers, providing strength to hair fibers and / or improving the elasticity of hair fibers.