KERATIN FIBER TREATMENT PROCESSES
A synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids in a pH-adjusted treatment composition effectively repairs and strengthens hair, addressing damage from harsh chemical treatments by reducing elasticity and enhancing hair strength.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024004710
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-06
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-05-06
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing, straightening, and perming, cause damage to keratin fibers by breaking chemical bonds, leading to weakened, brittle, and frizzy hair with increased elasticity, resulting in frequent breakage.
A synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids in a pH-adjusted composition is applied multiple times to keratin fibers to repair and strengthen hair, reducing elasticity and preventing damage.
The composition significantly reduces signs of damage, increasing hair strength and reducing elasticity, resulting in healthier-looking and feeling hair.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: METHODS FOR PROCESSING KERATIN FIBERS technical field
[0001] This disclosure relates to processes for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example to repair damaged keratin fibers, provide strength to keratin fibers and / or reduce the elasticity of keratin fibers. CONTEXT
[0002] Consumers use cosmetic compositions and processes to change or improve the appearance of their hair, for example, by changing the color, style, and / or shape of the hair, and / or by imparting various properties to the hair, such as shine and revitalization. However, many compositions and processes for modifying the appearance of hair, such as those for permanently changing the color or shape of hair, involve harsh chemical treatments. In addition, repeated styling can cause damage to the hair, for example, due to the repeated use of heat and styling tools. All of these processes can break the bonds within the hair fibers, which, if not reformed, result in damaged hair.
[0003] For example, hair lightening and dyeing compositions and processes generally require the presence of a strong alkalizing agent, such as ammonia, as well as additional compounds, such as oxidizing agents. In order to change the hair color, these components must first break down the natural components of the hair fibers. Similarly, straightening, relaxing, and perming compositions also involve aggressive chemicals to alter the shape of the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in the hair fibers.
[0004] It is known that, although such processes effectively alter the color and shape of hair, the chemical agents used inherently cause damage to the hair and negatively impact the strength, elasticity, and porosity of the hair fibers. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, straightened, smoothed, curled, subjected to multiple styling processes, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally appears unhealthy to the touch and in appearance. Furthermore, damaged hair is brittle and / or exhibits increased elasticity, resulting in more frequent breakage. As such, Consumers are looking for formulations and processes to prevent or minimize such damage and / or to repair hair that has been damaged by these treatments and processes. In particular, consumers want strong hair that doesn't break easily, that can be stretched or manipulated while retaining the ability to return to its original state without breaking (i.e., exhibiting reduced elasticity), that is soft and healthy to the touch, and that also looks shiny and healthy.
[0005] However, it has proven difficult to formulate compositions that satisfactorily meet these requirements. For example, some compositions that attempt to solve the problem simply coat the hair with compounds that may improve its feel and appearance; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Rather than preventing or repairing hair damage, this approach merely masks the damage until the next rinse or wash. Other compositions attempt to treat the damage within the hair fiber, but have not been satisfactory to date.
[0006] The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is remarkably effective in preventing or minimizing hair damage and treating damaged hair. Hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure shows remarkably reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity, particularly hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc. SUMMARY
[0007] This disclosure relates to processes for treating keratin fibers, for example, human hair, for example, to prevent, minimize, or repair hair damage such as damage caused by harsh chemical compositions and processes. The compositions that can be used in the processes (also referred to as "treatment compositions") include a synergistic combination of one or more amino acids, one or more osmolytes, and one or more carboxylic acids, and the processes include multiple applications of treatment compositions to keratin fibers, as disclosed.
[0008] In various embodiments, the processing compositions that can be used in the processes for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. The pH of the compositions is generally less than about 7 or less than about 6, for example, ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.
[0009] In some embodiments, the processing compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one amino acid selected from basic amino acids, for example, arginine, histidine, lysine, their salts, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, most preferably from about 3% to about 7%, most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions include at least one amino acid selected from acidic or neutral amino acids and their salts, for example, serine.In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and / or neutral amino acids and their salts ranges from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5%, preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 4%, more preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, and most preferably from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic, and / or neutral amino acids; for example, the compositions may include arginine and serine. In various embodiments, the total quantity of amino acids and their salts present in the composition ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0010] In some preferred embodiments, the processing compositions that can be used in the processes according to the disclosure include one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the preceding elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more of these.
[0011] In various embodiments, the treatment compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably still from about 1.5% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of osmolytes which is equal to or greater than about 0.5, for example greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.
[0012] In various embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one carboxylic acid selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In various embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.
[0013] The solvent may comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent and, in some embodiments, comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent. Optionally, the treatment compositions comprise water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, and have a total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, and more preferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] The treatment compositions may optionally also include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof.
[0015] In certain embodiments, the processing compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include (a) at least one amino acid and / or one of its salts, preferably at least one basic amino acid and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine, preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts, (d) at least one solvent, comprising preferably at least one polyol, and (e) optionally at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. For example, in at least some embodiments, the treatment composition comprises arginine and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example, ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts, for example arginine, serine, their salts, or combinations thereof, and the total amount of betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II) and their salts, for example glycine betaine, which is equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts that is greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.
[0016] In preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise (a) at least one amino carboxylic acid or one of its salts, preferably selected from arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably selected from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or their salts, and (d) water.For example, the composition may comprise (a) about 2% to about 6% arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) about 0.5% to about 3.5% glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or their salts, and (d) water and optionally at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 2% to about 10%, and wherein all amounts are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example, ranging from about 7. 2 to about 5, or about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and glycine betaine equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. If present, the compositions include serine in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1% by weight, and most preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.When compositions include serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to serine greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 15, more preferably from about 4 to about 14, more preferably from about 6 to about 13, and most preferably from about 8 to about 12. When compositions include serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of glycine betaine to serine greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 10, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, more preferably from about 3.5 to about 7, and most preferably from about 4 to about 6.
[0017] The methods include applying a first composition as disclosed to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time, and optionally rinsing the hair, followed by at least one subsequent application of a second composition as disclosed to the hair, optionally leaving the second composition on the hair for the same processing time, and optionally rinsing the hair. The first and second compositions may be identical or different. The subsequent application step may substantially follow the first application step. immediately, or may occur after a period of time, for example up to about 2 hours or up to about 1.5 hours after the first application. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0018] [Fig.1A]-[Fig.1B] Figures 1A-1B are graphs representing the elasticity of the hair fibers of the S1-S8 strands after one treatment (IA) and five treatments (IB).
[0019] [Fig.2A]-[Fig.2B] Figures 2A-2B are graphs representing elasticity hair fibers from S9-S16 strands after one treatment (2A) and five treatments (2B).
[0020] [Fig.3] The [Fig.3] is a graph representing the elasticity of the hair fibers of the S17-S21 strands after five treatments.
[0021] [Fig.4A]-[Fig.4B] Figures 4A-4B are graphs representing the constraint of breakage of hair fibers treated with compositions according to disclosure and comparative compositions.
[0022] [Fig. 5A]-[Fig. 5B] Figures 5A and 5B show the structures of some examples of osmolytes that may be included in the compositions according to the disclosure.
[0023] [Fig.6] The [Fig.6] is a graph showing the elasticity of hair fibers treated according to an example of disclosure process (PI) and hair treated with a comparative composition (P2) after multiple treatments. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0024] The disclosure relates to processes for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example processes for repairing damaged keratin fibers, adding strength to keratin fibers and / or reducing the elasticity of keratin fibers. I. COMPOSITIONS
[0025] The processing compositions that may be used in processes according to the disclosure include (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. The compositions may optionally include one or more additional components. Amino acids
[0026] The compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may include one, two, or three amino acids. The amino acids that may be chosen include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one basic amino acid.
[0027] As used herein, the term "amino acid" includes amino carboxylic acids and their salts, as well as aminosulfonic acids and their salts. As used herein, amino acids are understood to be organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) (carboxylic amino acids) and / or a sulfonic acid group (-S(=O)2-OH) (sulfonic amino acids) and an amino group (-NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intracyclic, as well as a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.
[0028] Aminocarboxylic acids that may be chosen include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more of these. Examples of aminosulfonic acids include aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more of these.
[0029] Amino acid salts are also included in the term "amino acid," whether or not this is explicitly stated. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be chosen include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts.
[0030] Furthermore, amino acids can be of D, L or DL configuration. In some preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to choose amino acids of L configuration, for example L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0031] In certain embodiments, it is particularly advantageous to choose one or more aminocarboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I): COOH (I) H — C — N(H)p R
[0032] in which:
[0033] - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and
[0034] • when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, the latter being able to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from the hydroxyl or alkyl group (in Cl-C4); or
[0035] • when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (in C1-C12) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (in C1-C4), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
[0036] In certain embodiments when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring links, this ring not being substituted.
[0037] In some embodiments, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched (C1-C4), optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments, p is preferably 2.
[0038] In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise one or more amino acids selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the aforementioned elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of, or are composed of, amino acids selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the aforementioned elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these.
[0039] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially consist of, or are composed of, arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or are composed of proline and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or are composed of methionine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or are composed of serine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or are composed of arginine and / or its salts.In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or their salts.
[0040] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids may range from about 0.1% to about 15%, such as from about 0.1% to about 12%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5.5%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4.5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3.5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 12%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5.5%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4.5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2.5% approximately 1, % to approximately 2%, from approximately 1% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2%5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4%, from approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3,5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 6% %, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4.25% to about 5.75%,from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4.75% to approximately 5.25%, or from approximately 4.8% to approximately 5.2% by weight, compared to the , total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amino acids may be approximately 4.5%, approximately 4.6%, approximately 4.7%, approximately 4.8%, approximately 4.9%, approximately 5.0%, approximately 5.1%, approximately 5.2%, approximately 5.3%, approximately 5.4%, or approximately 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of basic amino acids within any of the aforementioned ranges and amounts.
[0041] In a preferred embodiment, the treatment compositions comprise arginine and / or one of its salts. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present; for example, arginine comprises more than approximately 50%, such as more than approximately 60%, more than approximately 70%, more than approximately 80%, more than approximately 90%, more than approximately 95%, more than approximately 98%, or more than approximately 99% of all the amino acids present in the composition. In yet another preferred embodiment, arginine is the only basic amino acid in the composition.
[0042] In various preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10%, such as from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably still from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, even more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, or about 4.9%, approximately 5.0%, approximately 5.1%, approximately 5.2%, approximately 5.3%, approximately 5.4% or approximately 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,including all ranges and subranges using any of the previous values as upper and lower limits.
[0043] In another preferred embodiment, the treatment compositions that can be used in processes according to disclosure include serine and / or one of its salts. If present, the amount of serine can range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, such as approximately 0.01% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.3%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.2%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.05% % to about 0.4%, from about 0.05% to about 0.3%, from about 0.05% to about 0.2%, from about 0.05% to about 0.1%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1% or from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some preferred embodiments, compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as about 0.1%, about 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0044] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select at least one basic amino acid and at least one additional amino acid selected from among the acidic and / or neutral amino acids. For example, in preferred embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in compositions that can be used in processes according to disclosure, and to select total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acids and the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6.For example, the composition may have a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, such as about 4 to about 14, about 6 to about 13, about 8 to about 12, or about 9 to about 11. In other examples, the weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine may be about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12. In some preferred embodiments, the composition includes serine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or approximately 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower bounds.
[0045] In even more preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or which is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the previous values as upper and lower bounds. Osmolytes
[0046] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example, in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include aminocarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts and derivatives, carbohydrates such as sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethyl sulfonopropionate), and urea. For the purposes of this disclosure, "osmolytes" include amino carboxylic acid derivatives, amino sulfonic acid derivatives, and salts of derivatives (collectively referred to herein as "amino acid derivatives"), but do not include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, or their salts that are described above, and do not include polyols.
[0047] The compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the treatment compositions include more than one osmolyte. Without wishing to make a theory of it, it is believed that the use of osmolytes according to the disclosure allows treated hair to maintain a moisture balance, thereby reducing potential damage to the hair, or to restore a moisture balance to already damaged hair, allowing the treated hair to recover reduced strength and / or elasticity associated with healthy hair.
[0048] In preferred embodiments, the useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from compounds of formula (II) or their salts:
[0049] (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II)
[0050] in which:
[0051] - RI, R2 and R3 are chosen independently from among the alkyl groups in C1-C4, of preferentially alkyl groups in C1-C2, more preferentially methyl;
[0052] - A is N or S;
[0053] - m and n are independently equal to 0 or 1;
[0054] - X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and
[0055] - Y is -COO- or -OSO3- ;
[0056] provided that:
[0057] • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2;
[0058] • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (in C1-C8) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (at C1-C4); and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 to 6 ring links, knowing that this ring can be substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or alkyl (at C1-C4); and
[0059] • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2.
[0060] The useful, but not limiting, polyamine compounds may include primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. By way of example, polyamines that may be selected include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polymeric polyamines or polyamines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinylamine, polyetheramine, polylysine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the useful polyamines are selected from putrescine, spermidine, and / or spermine.
[0061] Useful, but not limiting, examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Salts of betaines may also be used and are expressly included in the term "betaine" unless otherwise expressly stated. In particularly preferred embodiments, the betaines are selected from those corresponding to formula (II). Examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in Figures 5A-5B. As shown in [Fig. 5A], in some embodiments, compounds of formula (II) are in zwitterionic form, and as shown in [Fig. 5B], in some embodiments, compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X. The counterion is not limited and may be any suitable counterion, for example, a chloride ion, a bromide ion, an iodide ion, a sulfate anion, a sulfonate anion, a methyl sulfate anion, a phosphate anion, a nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used here, a "compound of formula (II)" expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound and the salt forms, whether or not this is specified.
[0062] As shown in Figures 5A-5B, examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as "betaines"), for example, valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, and / or sulfoniopropionate of dimethyl. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethyl glycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).
[0063] In some preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more compounds of formula (II), i.e., a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising a total of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0064] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In some other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R3 is methyl. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino. In still other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a group a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched (in Cl-ClO), preferably (C1-C6 alkyl), more preferably (C1-C4 alkyl); a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bicyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bicyclic) substituted by an alkyl group;all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl, linear or branched (in C1-C6), more preferably (alkyl in C1-C4);optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH or -C0NH2. In some preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group. In other preferred embodiments, RI = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if any) is a divalent alkyl group which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.
[0065] In a preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino, more preferably of 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring links, preferably from 5 to 6 ring links, optionally substituted by a hydroxy group.
[0066] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures 5A-5B. In more preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise trimethylglycine (a name interchangeable with glycine betaine), optionally in combination with less one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).
[0067] Useful, but not limiting, examples of carbohydrate sugars that may be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example pentoses and / or their derivatives, or hexoses and / or their derivatives. For example, sugars may optionally be chosen from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxyribose, ribulose, deoxyribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are chosen from among the disaccharides, for example sucrose (also saccharose), maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from among the polysaccharides, for example maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more of these.In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably chosen from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0068] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition can range from about 0.01% to about 15%, such as, for example, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2.25% to about 10% from approximately 2.25% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.25% % to about 8%, from about 2.25% to about 7%, from about 2.25% to about 6%, from about 2.25% to about 5%, from about 2.25% to about 4%, from about 2.25% to about 3%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may be about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9% or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0069] In preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example, from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the previous values as upper and lower bounds.
[0070] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example, from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, approximately 2.9% or approximately 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0071] In certain embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose the quantities of amino acids and osmolytes so as to obtain a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acid(s) and their salts in the composition and the quantity total osmolytes in the composition greater than about 0.1, for example greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts and the total amount of osmolytes can range from about 0.1 to about 10, for example from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5. In other embodiments, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts and the total amount of osmolytes can range from more than 1 to about 4, for example from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2.For example, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) in the composition and the total amount of osmolytes in the composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower bounds.
[0072] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids selected from compounds of formula (I), and a total amount of osmolytes selected from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):components of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):components of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example, from about 1 to about 4, from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2.For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1, about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4 or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower bounds.
[0073] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than approximately 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine, serine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio between the total amount of [arginine + serine] and glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. Carboxylic acids
[0074] The compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the compositions may include at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, the useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that include, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-) acid functional groups or more and at least one carbon atom;
[0075] The carboxylic acids that may be used may optionally have a molecular weight less than approximately 500 g / mol, less than approximately 400 g / mol, less than approximately 300 g / mol, or less than approximately 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight less than approximately 300 g / mol, or less than approximately 200 g / mol.
[0076] Salts of carboxylic acids may also be used and are expressly included in the term "carboxylic acid" unless otherwise expressly stated. Salts include organic or mineral-based salts, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in some embodiments, and in particular sodium salts.
[0077] In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or one of their salts. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid-type compounds described above. The useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acidic or salt form); they may thus comprise only one -COOH group. (monoacids) or may comprise more than one, for example, two -COOH groups (in acidic or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acidic or salified form) (polyacids). Useful (poly)acids also comprise at least one -OH group, such as one to three or two to three -OH groups, for example, one, two, or three -OH groups. Preferably, (poly)acids comprise a total of 2 to 8 or 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In some preferred embodiments, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 3 to 6 carbon atoms, one to three -OH groups, and two to three -COOH groups (in acidic or salified form). Unless otherwise indicated, as used herein, the term "(poly)acid" includes both monoacids and polyacids.
[0078] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that may be chosen include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or one of its salts.
[0079] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that may be selected include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0080] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or one of its salts.
[0081] In certain embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline metal salts. earthy. In certain embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to choose citric acid, lactic acid and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.
[0082] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) can range from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 1% to about 15%, such as from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1%5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3% from about 2% to about 2.5%, from about 2.5% to about 15%, from about 2.5% to about 12%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5.5%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4.5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2,5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4%, from approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 5% to approximately 6.5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 5%5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 6.5%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 6% to approximately 15%, from approximately 6% to approximately 12%, from approximately 6% to approximately 10%, from approximately 6% to approximately 9%, from approximately 6% to approximately 8%, from approximately 6% to approximately 7%, or approximately 6% to approximately 6.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0083] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, for example from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0084] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose quantities of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and the total quantity of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and the total amount of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.8, for example greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.1, greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, for example from about 0.8 to about 1.5, from about 0.8 to about 1.35, or from about 0.8 to about 1.2.In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.2. Solvents
[0085] The compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one solvent. In various embodiments, the solvents can be chosen from water, non-aqueous solvents, or a combination thereof.
[0086] In some embodiments, the solvent includes water. In some embodiments, the composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 95% by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, from about 55% to about 90%, from about 60% to about 90%, or from about 60% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0087] In other preferred embodiments, the solvent includes at least one non-aqueous solvent. Examples of non-aqueous non-lilithitative solvents that may be used include, for example, glycerin, C1.4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, lamellar lipid materials, or combinations thereof. The non-aqueous solvent may be chosen from among organic solvents, for example monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
[0088] Preferably, the treatment compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols may be selected from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that may be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols can be chosen from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 triols, either of which can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.
[0089] By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol, may be chosen.In some embodiments, the polyols may be selected from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-Dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-l,2-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol, or combinations of two or more of these.In some preferred embodiments, the polyols are selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more of these. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin, or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises... water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols. In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more glycols, for example propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dipropylene glycol.
[0090] If present, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents in the composition may range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%, such as from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 2% to approximately 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably selected from polyols.In some embodiments, the composition comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 11%, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally further wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more of these, preferably selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more of these. Surfactants
[0091] The compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure may optionally include at least one surfactant. For example, the compositions may include one or more cationic and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants, and in some embodiments, the compositions may include mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.
[0092] Although the compositions may optionally include one or more anionic and / or nonionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic and / or nonionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments, compositions comprise less than about 3%, for example less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.75%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.2%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.01%, or less than about 0.001% of anionic and / or non-ionic surfactants.
[0093] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that can be positively charged when contained in the composition(s) as disclosed. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition as disclosed. Other non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5),dodecyldimethylethylbenzylammonium chloride (Quatemium-14), Quatemium-22, Quaternium-26, Quatemium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium phosphate POE (10) oleyl ether, diethanolammonium phosphate POE (3) oleyl ether, alkonium tallow chloride, dimethyldioctadecylammonium bentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, bromide of myrtrimonium, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyltrihydroxyethylpropylenediamine dihydrofluoride, suiftrimonium chloride,Hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0094] If present, the total quantity of cationic surfactants can be up to about 10%, for example up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to approximately 6%, up to approximately 5%, up to approximately 4%, up to approximately 3.5%, up to approximately 3%, up to approximately 2.5%, up to approximately 2%, up to approximately 1.5%, up to approximately 1%, or up to approximately 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may range from approximately 0.001% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 6%, or from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include secondary and tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives where the aliphatic radical may be a linear or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group, such as a carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium maize amphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium maize amphopropionate, and sodium lauriminodipropionate.ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium maizemphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium maizemphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocaminopropionate, triethanolamine cocaminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanolamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine cocoamphopropionate, triethanolamine maizemphopropionate, triethanolamine lauraminopropionate, triethanolamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanolamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, the lauroamphopropionate, triethanolamine, triethanolamine maize amphopropionate, triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, laurylaminopropylglycine and lauryldiethylenediaminoglycine.
[0096] Betaine surfactants may also be used. For example, cocodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, cetyldimethyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethyl betaine, stearylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethyl betaine, oleyldimethylgamma-carboxypropyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropyl betaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine or cocamidopropyl betaine may be chosen.
[0097] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants.
[0098] In some preferred embodiments, the surfactant does not include behentrimonium chloride. In some preferred embodiments, the surfactant comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more alkylamidoamines, for example, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine. Fatty compounds
[0099] Optionally, the compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0100] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be amino-functionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that may be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane.For example, the composition may include at least one silicone selected from amodimethicone, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, or a mixture of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a silicone oil that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
[0101] As further examples, silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0102] In some embodiments, the compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, "fatty alcohol" means any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or more, such as, for example, C8 or more, C10 or more, or C12 or more, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0103] By way of example, fatty alcohols may be selected from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
[0104] The useful, but not limiting, fatty acids may be linear- or branched-chain fatty acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids, as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0105] In some embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be chosen. For example, C1-C26 linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids and C1-C26 linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10, may be used. In other embodiments, C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C22 alcohol esters and C2-C26 mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acid esters and di-, tri-, tetra-, or pentahydroxy alcohol esters may also be used. By way of non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate,isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methylacetyl ricinoleate, myristyle stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyle or stearyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, , dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be chosen. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or one fatty alcohol ester, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0106] In some embodiments, the compositions that can be used in processes according to disclosure include at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of waxes that can be used include beeswax, hydrogenated olive alkyl esters, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, palm kernel glycerides / hydrogenated palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, siliconyl candelilla wax, China wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, and others. cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax;triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes and polyethylene waxes obtained by the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a wax component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl esters.
[0107] In some embodiments, the composition may include fatty compounds selected from oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin (for example, lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, tortoiseshell oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, tamanu oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, safflower oil or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (e.g., polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, and / or linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes that are facultatively volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane), mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols (e.g., mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, C5-C9 esters of dipentaerythrityl, polyesters of trimethylolpropane, polyesters of propylene glycol or polyesters of hydrogenated castor oil), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils, or mixtures of two or more of these.Non-limiting examples of fatty acids that may be used include facultatively branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, or mixtures of two or more of these.
[0108] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition may range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%, from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, or from approximately 5% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one fatty compound selected from silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes, or combinations thereof, where the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition ranges from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, preferably from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, more preferably from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, and most preferably from approximately 5% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents
[0109] The compositions that may be used according to the disclosure optionally include at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulosic derivatives; synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers and beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymers; acrylate copolymers; polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEL10); natural polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan; vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly; waxes; associated particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide and microcrystalline cellulose; celluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and guars, such as hydroxypropyl guar.
[0110] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylate copolymer and acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer.
[0111] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01% to about 8%, for example from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components
[0112] The compositions that may be used according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.
[0113] The total quantity of auxiliary components, if present, typically ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the individual quantities of each component or the total quantity of components may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0114] Compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure typically have a pH less than or equal to 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all ranges and subranges thereof.
[0115] The compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, the compositions may be a liquid, a gel, a gel-cream, a high, medium or low density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc. II. PROCESSES
[0116] The disclosure relates to compositions and routines for treating keratin fibers such as hair. Hair treatment processes may include processes for reducing or preventing hair damage and / or breakage, protecting hair from damage and / or breakage, restoring the hygroscopic balance of hair fibers, providing strength to hair fibers, improving the elasticity of hair fibers, and / or maintaining the hygroscopic balance, strength, and / or elasticity of hair fibers. In some embodiments, the hair treatment processes prevent hair damage from becoming too extensive to repair, namely, preventing irreversible damage to the hair.Surprisingly, hair treated according to the processes and routines disclosed here has less damage, less breakage, lower elasticity and / or higher strength than similarly damaged but untreated hair as disclosed.
[0117] The processes and routines include at least the application of a first composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time (“treatment time”, “resting period” or “application period”), and optionally rinsing the hair, followed by at least one (“second”) subsequent application of a second composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally leaving the second composition on the application period of the hair, and optionally rinsing the hair.
[0118] The composition applied in the second application step may or may not be the same composition as in the first step; that is, the same composition may be used in each step, or different compositions may be used in each step. If they are different, the compositions used may differ in terms of component types, component quantities, or both. Thus, unless expressly stated otherwise, a process or routine according to the disclosure that includes a first application of a first composition and a second application of a second composition as described herein considers that the first and second compositions may be identical or different.For example, a first step might involve applying a composition such as the one described here, for example, a composition including arginine, glycine betaine, and citric acid, to the hair, followed by a second step that involves applying the same first composition to the hair. (As a separate point.) As another example, a first step might involve applying a composition such as the one described here, for example, a composition containing arginine, glycine betaine, and citric acid, to the hair, followed by a second step involving the application of a different composition such as the one described here, for example, a composition containing serine, proline betaine, and lactic acid, to the hair. Therefore, the use of "first composition," "second composition," or similar terms should not be interpreted as limiting the components and / or their quantities present in the composition(s).
[0119] The exposure period may last for a period deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the keratin fibers, such as approximately 30 seconds, approximately 1 minute, approximately 2 minutes, approximately 5 minutes, approximately 10 minutes, approximately 15 minutes, approximately 20 minutes, approximately 30 minutes, approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 hours, etc., or may extend over a period of time using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits. As a non-limiting example, the exposure time can range from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 60 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 5 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 60 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 5 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 60 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 20 minutes minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 10 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 5 minutes, etc.
[0120] The period of time between the first and second application steps, which is also referred to herein as a "mid-treatment pause time" or a "pause time", is generally less than about 12 hours, preferably less than about 10 hours, less than about 8 hours, less than about 6 hours, less than about 4 hours, less than about 2 hours, or less than about 1 hour, although in at least some embodiments the second application may follow immediately or substantially immediately the first application, with or without intermediate rinsing.For example, the break time can range from about 1 minute to about 3 hours, for example from about 1 minute to about 2 hours, from about 1 minute to about 1.5 hours, from about 1 minute to about 1 hour, from about 1 minute to about 45 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 20 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 15 minutes, . from approximately 1 minute to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 3 hours, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 2 hours, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 1 hour, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 3 hours, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 2 hours, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 1 hour, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 3 hours, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 2 hours, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 1 hour, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 45 minutes,from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 15 minutes to approximately 3 hours, from approximately 15 minutes to approximately 2 hours, from approximately 15 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, from approximately 15 minutes to approximately 1 hour, from approximately 15 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 15 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 15 minutes to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 20 minutes to approximately 3 hours, from approximately 20 minutes to approximately 2 hours, from approximately 20 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, from approximately 20 minutes to approximately 1 hour, from approximately 20 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 20 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 30 minutes to approximately 3 hours, from approximately 30 minutes to approximately 2 hours, from approximately 30 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, from approximately 30 minutes to approximately 1 hour, or from approximately 30 minutes to approximately 45 minutes. In preferred embodiments, the pause time is no longer than approximately 4 hours.preferably no longer than about 3 hours, more preferably no longer than about 2 hours, more preferably still no longer than about 1 hour, most preferably no longer than about 30 minutes.
[0121] The mid-treatment processing time can be measured by considering (a) the time when the application of the first composition is completed, the time when the optional processing period ends, or the time when the first composition is rinsed from the hair, up to (b) the start of the application of the second composition. Thus, for example, a process according to the disclosure that includes a mid-treatment processing time of 10 minutes may include a first step of applying a first composition to the hair, and once the hair is fully treated with the composition, a 10-minute processing time may elapse, and at the end of the 10 minutes a second composition, which may be identical or different from the first composition, may be applied to the hair, with or without an intermediate rinsing. In this example, if the first composition is not rinsed from the hair immediately or at any time during the processing time, the processing time for the first composition and the mid-treatment processing time may overlap or be the same. As another example, a process according to the disclosure that includes a mid-treatment processing time of 30 minutes may include an initial step of applying a first composition to the hair, and once the hair is fully treated with the composition, the first treatment may remain on the hair for a processing period of 15 minutes, the hair may be rinsed, and a processing time of 30 minutes may elapse from the time the hair is rinsed until a second composition, which may be the same as or different from the first composition, is applied to the hair.In this example, the exposure time for the first layer and the mid-process pause time do not overlap, and the total time between the completion of the first layer application and the start of the second layer application combines both the exposure time and the mid-process pause time. It is therefore important to understand that exposure time and pause time can partially or completely overlap, or be mutually exclusive.
[0122] Although not required, various processes and routines as disclosed may also include a step of heating the hair to which the composition has been applied, for example, during the processing time while the composition is on the hair, for example, during the optional processing time of the first and / or second application steps. For example, a hair dryer, a hair dryer hood, etc., may be used.
[0123] By way of non-limiting example, a treatment routine according to the disclosure may include (1) the application of a first composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp or dry hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate leave-on treatment time with or without heating, and optionally rinsing the hair, and (2) the application of a second composition according to the disclosure to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate leave-on treatment time, with or without heating, and optionally rinsing the hair, with or without a pause time halfway through the treatment.
[0124] Another exemplary treatment routine may include (1) applying a first composition as disclosed to wet, damp, or dry hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, with or without heating, and optionally rinsing the hair, (2) observing a mid-treatment processing time as described herein, for example, ranging from about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, and (3) applying a second composition according to the disclosure on the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time with or without heating, and optionally rinsing the hair.
[0125] Processes and routines as disclosed may be used to treat hair before, during, and / or after a process that includes one or more other hair compositions, such as, for example, hair dye compositions, hair bleaching compositions, hair straightening compositions, perm compositions, etc. Thus, it is envisaged that processes and routines as disclosed may be used in conjunction with other hair treatment processes, such as chemical hair treatment processes, thereby reducing, minimizing, or preventing hair damage that might otherwise result from such harsh chemical treatments.
[0126] For example, such a routine may include (1) applying a first composition as disclosed to wet, damp or dry hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, and optionally rinsing the hair, (2) applying a second composition as disclosed to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, and optionally rinsing the hair, step (2) being able to follow step (1) with or without a mid-treatment pause, and (3) substantially immediately thereafter, applying to the hair a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, smoothing, straightening or perming composition.
[0127] Another such routine may include (1) applying a chemical treatment such as bleaching, dyeing, straightening, perming or waving to the hair, with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, (2) applying a first composition as disclosed to wet, damp or dry hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, and optionally rinsing the hair, and (3) applying a second composition as disclosed to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, and optionally rinsing the hair, step (3) being able to follow step (2) with or without a mid-treatment pause.
[0128] It should be understood that further applications of compositions according to the disclosure are also envisaged in various routines, for example a third application, a fourth application, etc., in which each subsequent application may follow the previous application with or without a pause mid-processing time, and may use an identical or different composition of that used in any of the preceding steps. Thus, unless expressly stated otherwise, a process or routine according to the disclosure that includes a first application of a first composition and a second application of a second composition as described herein anticipates that additional applications of additional compositions according to the disclosure may be included.
[0129] In this document, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts containing a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example, in an aqueous solution.
[0130] In this application, the terms "keratin fibres" and "hair" are used interchangeably without being intended to be restrictive. A person skilled in the art will understand that keratin fibres include hair, such as hair growing from the scalp.
[0131] As used herein, the expression "apply a composition to the hair," and its variations, is intended to refer to bringing the hair into contact with at least one of the compositions in the disclosure, in any manner whatsoever. It may also refer to bringing the hair into contact with an effective quantity.
[0132] The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of the hair. The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to bringing the hair into contact with the compositions of this disclosure.
[0133] Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, compositions may include less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.01%, less than about 0.001%, or less than about 0.0001% of the specified material.As such, it is envisaged that any component described here for use in hair treatment compositions may be present in the compositions in amounts less than about 5%, less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.01%, less than about 0.001% or less than about 0.0001%, and the composition will be regarded as "substantially free" of a . such material. A composition "free" of a component is understood to contain none of the specified components. However, it is understood that the terms "free" and "substantially free" refer to the amount of a component added to the composition, without including an amount of the component present in the composition as a minor component in a raw material. For example, a composition "free" of waxes may not have wax included as an intended component, but may nevertheless contain a pigment that is coated with wax, since such wax would be considered a minor component of the pigment material and should not provide the benefits to the composition that would be expected from including a wax itself as an intended component.
[0134] As used herein, the expression "in which or which the first composition, the second composition, or both independently" or similar means that the component or parameter that follows is satisfied by one and / or the other of the first and second compositions, but that the component or parameter is not necessarily the same. Thus, for example, "in which or which the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise a surfactant" should be understood as indicating that either the first composition or the second composition has a surfactant, or that both the first and second compositions have a surfactant, but in this case, the surfactant in the first composition may be the same as or different from the surfactant in the second composition. EXAMPLES
[0135] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active substances, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example #1 - Treatment compositions
[0136] Compositions 1A-1G according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 1. The pH of each of the compositions 1A-1G was approximately 3.5.
[0137] [Table 1] TABLE 1 IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F IG Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric and / or lactic acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 4.1 Amino acid(s) neutral(s) 0.5 Preservative(s) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Solvents (water and / or non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS QS QS
[0138] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric acid and / or lactic acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine and / or serine).
[0139] Example 2 - Assessment of damage compensation
[0140] In order to evaluate the ability of compositions that can be used in processes according to disclosure to minimize, prevent or repair damage to hair, the following studies were carried out. Example #2A - Ultra-bleached hair
[0141] Eight strands (S1-S8) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then seven of the strands (S1-S7) were subjected to the following treatment routines (strand S8 was not treated after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).
[0142] The SI strand was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.
[0143] Each strand S2-S7 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterwards, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions 1A-1F (Table 2) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coating. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.
[0144] [Table 2] TABLE 2 IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F Wick S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 S7
[0145] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S1-S8 was studied after the first and fifth days. Elasticity was evaluated to determine whether the hair fibers stretched, and if so, whether they returned to their original state (lower elasticity, i.e. healthy), whether the fibers stretched easily and remained stretched (higher elasticity, i.e. damaged) or whether the hair fibers broke during the tests.
[0146] The evaluation was carried out by stretching a standardized quantity of wet hair fibers, with two experts independently evaluating each strand. The experts were trained to stretch the area of the strand being evaluated by uniformly applying a manual tensile force using their hands / fingers. The behavior of the strand was rated by each expert on a 6-level scale as follows, with the result reported for each strand being the average of the two:
[0147] 0 = Natural and healthy hair (no damage);
[0148] 1 = low elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a slight elasticity, returning to their initial state after testing);
[0149] 2 = moderate elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a elasticity, returning to their initial state after the test);
[0150] 3 = High elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit elasticity and some hair fibers do not return to their initial state after the test);
[0151] 4 = Very high elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit elasticity (and most hair fibers do not return to their initial state after the test); and
[0152] 5 = immediate breakage (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a high elasticity and break during testing).
[0153] The results showed that the hair fibers of strands S2-S7, treated with one of compositions 1A-1F, surprisingly exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of strands SI or S8 both after day 1 ([Fig.1A]) and day 5 ([Fig.1B]). In other words, the hair in strands SI and S8 was damaged by the aggressive bleaching process, resulting in increased elasticity, while the damage to strands S2-S7 had been repaired by treatment with one of compositions 1A-1F. Example #2B - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair
[0154] Eight strands (S9-S16) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then seven of the strands (S9-S15) were subjected to the following treatment routines.
[0155] The S9 strand was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair. The treatment was repeated a second time. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.
[0156] Each strand of hair S10-S15 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions 1A-1F (Table 3) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for use with flat irons were applied to the hair. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.
[0157] [Table 3] TABLE 3 IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F Wick S10 SU S12 S13 S14 S15
[0158] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S9-S16 was studied in the same way as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of the strands S10-S15, treated with one of the compositions 1A-1F, surprisingly exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of the strands S9 and S16 both after day 1 ([Fig.2A]) and day 5 ([Fig.2B]).
[0159] Examples 2A and 2B thus demonstrate that treating hair damaged by aggressive chemical processes with a composition as disclosed repairs the damage in an unexpected way, leaving the hair less elastic than without treatment. It is expected that the processes and routines described herein, namely including at least one subsequent application of a composition as disclosed within approximately 12 hours or less, preferably within approximately 5 minutes to approximately 2 hours, will repair the damaged hair and improve elasticity to an even greater extent than observed in Examples 2A-2B. Example #3 - Treatment Compositions
[0160] Compositions 2A-2E according to the disclosure were prepared as indicated in Table 4.
[0161] [Table 4] TABLE 4 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 Silicone oil(s) (dimethicone and / or amodimethicone) 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 1.0 Fatty alcohol(s) (stearyl alcohol and / or cetearyl alcohol) 4.5 4.5 6.0 5.0 6.0 Cetyl esters 1.0 Cationic surfactant(s) (cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and / or stearamidopropyldimethylamine) 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.5 1.6 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.1 1.1 1.1 0.2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.8 1.0 1.5 1.5 0.4 Auxiliary component(s) (pH adjusters, preservatives, vitamins, extracts) <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS Measured pH 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 4.0
[0162] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine).
[0163] Example 4 - Assessment of damage compensation
[0164] In order to evaluate the ability of the compositions according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent or repair damage to hair, the following studies were carried out.
[0165] A comparator product, Cl, had the following list of ingredients on the packaging: Water (Aqua / Eau), bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, propylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, glycerin, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, quaternium-91, sodium benzoate, cetrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium chloride, parfum, tetrasodium EDTA, polyquaternium-37, benzyl benzoate, etidronic acid, ascorbic acid, phytantriol, tocopheryl acetate, alobadenium barena, Jujonja, Jusenja (China) Seed Oil, citric acid, potassium sorbate.Composition Cl, described as a "pre-shampoo hair treatment that reduces breakage and split ends for visibly healthier-looking hair," is advertised as part of a system that claims it can "restore broken disulfide bonds damaged by chemical treatments, heat, and styling." Instructions for Composition Cl are to use the product before using the shampoo ("Cl-S") and conditioner ("Cl-C") that are part of this system, both of which list bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate as the listed active ingredient.
[0166] Example 4A - Ultra-bleached hair Elasticity and resistance
[0167] Five strands (S17-S21) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then four of the strands (S17-S20) were subjected to the following treatment routines (strand S21 was not treated after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).
[0168] The S17 strand was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0169] Strands S18 and S19 were each cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the lather into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions 2D (S18) or 2B (S19) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0170] The S20 strand was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, after which the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with Cl-S shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, conditioner Cl-C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0171] Once the five treatments of the S17-S20 strands were completed, the integrity of the hair fibers of each of the S17-S21 strands was studied in the same way as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of the S18 and S19 strands, treated respectively with compositions 2D and 2B, exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of the S17 and S20-S21 strands ([Fig.3]).
[0172] Next, the strength was evaluated using a Dia-Stron fiber tensile testing instrument, the MTT (Miniature Tensile Tester). The results showed The hairs in strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, were surprisingly stronger than the hairs in strands S17 or S20, meaning that greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers in strands S18 and S19. Figure 4A shows the breaking strength (MPa) for a control strand (CLU), made of the same hair but unbleached, strand S17, which was bleached but without further treatment, strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and strand S20, treated with the comparative compositions. As shown in Figure 4A, the breaking strength of the control strand (CLU) was more than double that of strand S17, demonstrating the significant damage caused by the bleaching process.After five (5) treatments with composition 2D (strand S18), 2B (strand S19) or the comparative compositions (S20), the breaking strength of the treated strands increased compared to strand S17. Surprisingly, the increase in breaking strength for samples S18-S19 was considered statistically significant compared to that of sample S20, meaning that compositions 2D and 2B repaired the hair to a greater extent than the comparative compositions.
[0173] Example 4B - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Elasticity
[0174] Four strands (S22-S25) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened with formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55°C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed and, over a five-week treatment period, the four strands were subjected to the following routine twice a week.
[0175] First, the strands were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
[0176] Three of the strands (S22-S24) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.
[0177] The S22 strand was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. A hair mask was applied and left on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
[0178] Strand S23 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the lather into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. Immediately afterward, Composition 2C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
[0179] The S24 strand was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, after which the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with Cl-S shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, conditioner Cl-C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to remain on the strand for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for use with flat irons were applied to the hair.
[0180] After the five-week treatment period, the elasticity and resistance of the hair fibers of each of the strands S22 to S25 were studied in the same manner as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of The S23 strand, treated with composition 2C, had lower elasticity than the fibers of any of the S22 or S24-S25 strands.
[0181] Example 4C - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Resistance
[0182] Four strands (S26-S29) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed and, over a five-week treatment period, all four strands were subjected to the following routine.
[0183] First, the strands were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
[0184] Three of the strands (S27-S29) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.
[0185] Strands S27 and S28 were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. One of the compositions 2B (S28) or 2D (S27) was applied to the hair and left on, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
[0186] The strand S29 was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for a resting period of approximately five minutes, after which the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterwards, the strand was cleaned with Cl-S shampoo by wetting the strand and applying Shampoo was applied to the strand, lathered, and left on for approximately one minute. The strand was then rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, Cl-C conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were then applied to the hair.
[0187] Tests were carried out with the MTT in the same manner as described in Example 4A. The results showed that the hairs of strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, were surprisingly stronger than the hairs of strands S26 or S29, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers of strands S27 and S28. Figure 4A shows the breaking strength (MPa) for a control strand (CTL), made of the same hair but unbleached, strand S26, which was bleached but without further treatment, and strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and strand S29, treated with the comparative compositions. As shown in [Fig.4B], the breaking strength of the control strand (CTL) was approximately three times greater than that of the S26 strand, showing the significant damage caused by the bleaching process.After five (5) treatments with composition 2B (strand S28) and 2D (strand S27), the breaking strength of the treated strands was increased compared to strand S26, and the improvement was considered statistically significant. However, [Fig. 4B] shows that the breaking strength of the strand treated with the comparative composition (S29) did not show any improvement.
[0188] Examples 4A to 4C thus demonstrate that treating hair damaged by aggressive chemical processes with a composition as disclosed remarkably repairs the damage. The repair of the damage was also remarkably greater than that obtained with a commercial product that claims to do the same. It is expected that the processes and routines described herein, namely including at least one subsequent application of a composition as disclosed within approximately 12 hours or less, preferably within approximately 5 minutes to approximately 2 hours, will repair the damaged hair and improve elasticity to an even greater extent than observed in Examples 4A-4C. Example #5 - Treatment Compositions
[0189] The compositions 3A-3F that can be used in processes according to the disclosure were prepared as indicated in Table 5.
[0190] [Table 5] TABLE 5 3A 3B 3C 3D 3E 3F Basic Amino Acid(s) 5.50 5.50 3.80 3.80 5.00 5.00 Thickening Agent(s) 0.30 0.90 0.90 1.00 Non-ionic Surfactant(s) 0.30 1.50 0.50 0.50 Amphoteric Surfactant(s) 0.30 0.19 3.00 Revitalizing Agent(s) 0.80 0.30 3.13 Cationic Surfactant(s) 2.10 3.84 3.00 3.00 2.37 2.00 Glycine Betaine 2.50 2.50 1.80 1.80 2.50 2.50 Citric acid 6.00 6.00 5.50 5.50 6.06 6.06 Wax(s) 0.50 0.50 Fatty alcohol(s) 6.30 6.30 12.0 4.50 Vegetable oil(s) 0.50 0.30 Fatty acid ester(s) 2.50 1.50 0.70 Additives (preservatives, per fume) <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS QS
[0191] Compositions 3A-3F, which contained a synergistic combination of components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine)), should also improve the elasticity and strength of treated hair fibers when used according to the processes described herein.
[0192] Example 6 - Assessment of damage compensation
[0193] In order to evaluate the ability of the hair treatment processes according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent or repair damage, the following studies were conducted.
[0194] The hair of forty-two (42) volunteers (integrity rated from 0 to 3 when assessed as described in Example 2A) was bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and processed at room temperature for approximately 45 minutes. The hair was rinsed and immediately subjected to one of the following two processing protocols.
[0195] Protocol 1 (as disclosed) (n = 24) (PI): Hair was coated with composition 3B, which was left on the hair for five minutes. The hair was then shampooed, the shampoo was left on the hair for one minute, and then the shampoo was rinsed out. The hair was then coated with composition 3E, which was left on the hair for five minutes, and rinsed out. Finally, the hair was coated with composition 3F, which was left on the hair as a leave-in treatment and will be washed off during the subject's next hair wash.
[0196] Protocol 2 (comparative) (n = 24) (P2): The hair was coated with composition Cl, which was left on the hair for ten minutes, then rinsed. The hair was then shampooed with composition Cl-S, the shampoo being left on the hair for one minute, and then rinsed out. Finally, the hair was coated with composition Cl-C, which was left on the hair for three minutes, and rinsed out.
[0197] The same protocol was repeated for each volunteer every 2 days four more times, for a total of five treatments per subject. The hair was evaluated as described in Example 2A after being bleached (T0) and after each treatment (T1-T5).
[0198] Figure 6 shows the averaged results for PI and P2 at each of T0-T5. As can be seen, although the hair treated according to both protocols showed decreased elasticity from the first treatment (T1), the hair treated according to PI showed an even greater improvement after each treatment than the hair treated according to P2, which was considered a statistically significant difference. Example#?# - Additional Compositions
[0199] The following compositions, which may be used in processes and routines as disclosed, may be prepared and should likewise minimize, prevent, or repair damage to hair when used as described herein. The compositions should also improve the elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers.
[0200] [Table 6] TABLE 6 4A 4B 4C 4D 4E Arginine 2.0 9.8 2.5 Lysine 2.5 2.0 10 Valine betaine 2.0 4.5 2.0 1.0 4.0 Citric acid 3 2.0 9.8 Lactic acid 2.0 10 2 Serine 0.05 0.5 0.05 0.5 Fatty compound(s) 10 8.0 9.0 15 Cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant(s) 3.0 0.5 2.5 5.0 Additional component(s) (e.g., pH adjusters, vitamins, preservatives, extracts, thickeners) <5 <5 <5 <5 <5 Solvent(s) (water and / or non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS
Claims
Demands
1. A process for treating keratin fibers comprising: (i) applying to the keratin fibers a first composition comprising: a. at least one compound selected from amino acids or their salts; b. at least one osmolyte; c. at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; and d. at least one solvent; (ii) optionally, leaving the first composition on the keratin fibers for a period of exposure from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes; (iii) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers; and (iv) applying to the keratin fibers a second composition comprising: a. at least one compound selected from amino acids or their salts; b. at least one osmolyte; c. at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; and d. at least one solvent, wherein the first composition and the second composition are identical or different.
2. A method according to claim 1, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise a) at least one amino acid selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.
3. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (b) at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, betaines, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising at least one betaine selected from compounds of formula (II) or its salts: (R1)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II) wherein: - RI, R2 and R3 are chosen independently from among the C1-C4 alkyl groups; - A is N or S; - m and n are independently 0 or 1; - X is a divalent C1-C6 alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and - Y is -COO- or -OSO3-; provided that: • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated (C1-C10), unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2;• when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a saturated, linear or branched hydrogen or alkyl (C1-C8) atom, and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring links, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or alkyl (Cl-C4); and • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.;
4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (b) at least one compound of formula (II) selected from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta- alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, their salts or combinations of two or more of these, preferably including glycine betaine.
5. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the first composition, the second composition, or both independently comprise (c) at least one compound selected from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.
6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the total amount of amino acids and their salts in the first composition, the second composition or both independently ranges from about 2% to about 15%, preferably from about 2.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 3.5% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the total amount of osmolytes in the first composition, the second composition or both independently ranges from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts in the first composition, the second composition or both independently ranges from about 3% to about 15%, preferably from about 3% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 10%, and more preferably from about 4% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition is left on the keratin fibers for a setting period of approximately 1.
10. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, which is a method for reducing or preventing damage or breakage of hair, protecting hair against damage, restoring the hygroscopic balance of hair fibers, providing strength to hair fibers and / or improving the elasticity of hair fibers.