HAIR TREATMENT PROCESSES

A synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids in a pH-adjusted composition effectively rebuilds hair bonds, addressing damage from chemical treatments and enhancing hair strength and elasticity.

FR3157170B3Active Publication Date: 2026-01-09LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024004730
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-12-20
Filing Date
2024-05-06
Publication Date
2026-01-09
Estimated Expiration
2034-05-06

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair treatments that alter color or shape, such as bleaching, dyeing, and straightening, damage hair fibers by breaking disulfide bonds, leading to dryness, frizziness, brittleness, and increased breakage, and current compositions fail to effectively repair or prevent this damage.

Method used

A synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids, along with optional fatty compounds, surfactants, and thickening agents, is used in a pH-adjusted composition to rebuild bonds in hair fibers, with a pH less than 7, typically ranging from 2 to 5.

Benefits of technology

The composition significantly reduces signs of damage, increasing hair strength and reducing elasticity, particularly in chemically treated hair, providing long-lasting repair.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

HAIR TREATMENT PROCESSES The disclosure relates to compositions and processes for treating hair, for example, for building or rebuilding bonds in hair fibers. The compositions include (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. The processes include applying the compositions to hair. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: METHODS HAIR TREATMENT technical field

[0001] This disclosure relates to hair processing methods, for example, for building or rebuilding bonds in hair fibers. BACKGROUND

[0002] Consumers desire healthy, strong hair. However, various hair treatments, such as those designed to change or improve the appearance of hair, for example by changing the color, style, and / or shape, are known to damage hair. Furthermore, repeated styling can damage hair, for example, due to the repeated use of heat and styling tools. All of these processes can break the bonds within the hair fibers, which, if not reformed, result in damaged hair.

[0003] For example, hair lightening and dyeing compositions and processes generally require the presence of a strong alkalizing agent, such as ammonia, as well as additional compounds, such as oxidizing agents. In order to change hair color, these components must first break down the natural components of the hair fibers, such as disulfide bonds. Similarly, hair straightening or smoothing compositions also involve harsh chemicals to change the shape of the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in the hair fibers.

[0004] It is known that, although such processes effectively alter the color and shape of hair, the chemical agents used in them inherently result in hair damage due, at least in part, to the breaking of bonds within the hair fiber during the coloring or styling process. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, straightened, smoothed, repeatedly styled, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally unpleasant to the touch and appearance. Furthermore, damaged hair is brittle and / or exhibits increased elasticity, leading to more frequent breakage. As such, consumers seek compositions and processes to prevent or minimize such damage and / or to repair hair that has been damaged by these treatments and processes, in particular to rebuild broken bonds in the hair fibers.

[0005] However, it has proven difficult to formulate compositions that satisfactorily meet these requirements. For example, some compositions that Attempts to address the problem of hair damage merely coat the hair with compounds that may improve its feel and appearance; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Rather than preventing or repairing hair damage, this approach simply masks the damage until the next rinse or wash. Other formulations attempt to address damage within the hair fiber, for example, by reforming broken bonds, but to date, these have not been satisfactory.

[0006] The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is remarkably effective in treating damaged hair by building or rebuilding bonds in the hair fibers. Hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure shows remarkably reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity, particularly in hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments. SUMMARY

[0007] The disclosure relates to hair treatment processes, for example, for rebuilding bonds within the hair fiber that are broken by aggressive chemical compositions and processes. The compositions that can be used in the processes include a synergistic combination of one or more amino acids, preferably one or more basic amino acids, one or more osmolytes, and one or more carboxylic acids.

[0008] In various embodiments, the compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. The compositions further optionally include (e) at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, direct dyes, or combinations thereof. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7 or less than about 6, for example, ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.

[0009] In some embodiments, the compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one amino acid selected from basic amino acids, for example, arginine, histidine, lysine, their salts, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably still from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions include at least less one amino acid selected from among the acidic or neutral amino acids and their salts, for example serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and / or neutral amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic, and / or neutral amino acids; for example, the compositions may include arginine and serine.In various embodiments, the total quantity of amino acids and their salts present in the composition ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the preceding elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more of these.

[0011] In various embodiments, the compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably still from about 1.5% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of osmolytes which is greater than or equal to about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.

[0012] In various embodiments, the compositions that can be used include at least one carboxylic acid selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, Citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In various embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.

[0013] The solvent may comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent, and in some embodiments comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol. Optionally, the compositions comprise water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, and have a total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The compositions may optionally also include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, direct dyes or combinations of two or more of these.

[0015] In certain embodiments, the compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include (a) at least one amino acid and / or one of its salts, preferably at least one basic amino acid and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine, preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts, (d) at least one solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and (e) optionally at least one additional component selected from direct dyes, fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof.For example, in at least some embodiments, the composition includes arginine and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example, ranging from about 2 to about 5, or about . 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts, for example arginine, serine, their salts, or combinations thereof, and the total amount of betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II) and their salts, for example glycine betaine, which is equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts which is greater than about 0.5 or greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.

[0016] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one amino carboxylic acid or one of its salts, preferably selected from arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably selected from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or their salts, and (d) water.For example, the composition may comprise (a) about 2% to about 6% arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) about 0.5% to about 3.5% glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably citric acid, lactic acid, and / or their salts, and (d) water and optionally at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 2% to about 10%, and wherein all amounts are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example, ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and glycine betaine equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably . from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5 or greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, direct dyes or combinations thereof. If present, the compositions include serine in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1%, and most preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.When compositions include serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to serine greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 15, more preferably from about 4 to about 14, more preferably still from about 6 to about 13, and most preferably from about 8 to about 12. When compositions include serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of glycine betaine to serine greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 10, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, more preferably still from about 3.5 to about 7, and most preferably from about 4 to about 6.

[0017] The methods include applying a composition as described to the hair. The composition may be left on the hair for an optional application time and, optionally, rinsed from the hair. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0018] [Fig 1A-1B] Figures IA and IB are graphs showing the elasticity of the hair fibers of the SI to S8 strands after one treatment (IA) and five treatments (IB).

[0019] [Fig 2A-2B] Figures 2A and 2B are graphs showing the elasticity of the hair fibers of strands S9 to S16 after one treatment (2A) and five treatments (2B).

[0020] [Fig.3] The [Fig.3] is a graph showing the elasticity of the hair fibers of strands S17 to S21 after five treatments.

[0021] [Fig 4A-4B] Figures 4A and 4B are graphs showing the breaking strength of hair fibers treated with compositions according to disclosure and comparative compositions.

[0022] [Fig 5A-5B] Figures 5A and 5B show the structures of some examples of osmolytes which may be included in compositions according to disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0023] The disclosure relates to hair treatment processes, for example, for rebuilding bonds in hair fibers. Hair treated according to the disclosure shows surprisingly reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity, particularly in damaged hair.

[0024] I. COMPOSITIONS

[0025] The compositions that may be used in processes according to this disclosure include (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. The compositions may optionally include one or more additional components, such as fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, direct dyes, or combinations thereof. Amino acids

[0026] The compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may include one, two, or three amino acids. The amino acids that may be chosen include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one basic amino acid.

[0027] As used herein, the term "amino acid" includes amino carboxylic acids and their salts, as well as amino sulfonic acids and their salts. As used herein, amino acids are understood to be organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) (amino carboxylic acids) and / or a sulfonic acid group (-S(=O)2-OH) (amino sulfonic acids) and an amino group (-NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intracyclic, as well as a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.

[0028] Amino carboxylic acids that may be chosen include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more of these. Examples of aminosulfonic acids include aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, and diaminobenzene. sulfonic acid, aminophenol sulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzene sulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzene sulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more of these.

[0029] Amino acid salts are also included in the expression "amino acid," whether or not this is explicitly stated. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be chosen include organic or mineral salts, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts.

[0030] In addition, amino acids can be of D, L or DL ​​configuration. In some preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to choose amino acids of L configuration, for example L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0031] In certain embodiments, it is particularly advantageous to choose one or more amino carboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I): COOH (I) H — C — R

[0032] in which:

[0033] - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and

[0034] - when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 ring links, knowing that this ring can be substituted by one or more groups chosen from the hydroxyl or alkyl group (in C1-C4); or

[0035] - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (in C1-C12) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (in C1-C4), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2 ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.

[0036] In certain embodiments when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring links, this ring not being substituted.

[0037] In some embodiments, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl group (C1-C4), linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments, p is preferably 2.

[0038] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more amino acids selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the preceding elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of, or are composed of, amino acids selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the preceding elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these.

[0039] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the acid or amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or its salts.In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or their salts.

[0040] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids can range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 15%, such as from approximately 0.1% to approximately 12%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10% from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5.5%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4.5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, from about 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 1% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1.5% % to approximately 9%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 6% %, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4%, from approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8% from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5.5%or about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or from about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amino acids may be approximately 4.5%, approximately 4.6%, approximately 4.7%, approximately 4.8%, approximately 4.9%, approximately 5.0%, approximately 5.1%, approximately 5.2%, approximately 5.3%, approximately 5.4%, or approximately 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits. In some preferred embodiments,The compositions include a total amount of basic amino acids within any of the aforementioned ranges and quantities.

[0041] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise arginine and / or one of its salts. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present; for example, arginine comprises more than approximately 50%, such as more than approximately 60%, more than approximately 70%, more than approximately 80%, more than approximately 90%, more than approximately 95%, more than approximately 98%, or more than approximately 99% of all the amino acids present in the composition. In yet another preferred embodiment, arginine is the only basic amino acid in the composition.

[0042] In various preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10%, for example from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably still from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, even more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0043] In another preferred embodiment, the compositions that can be used in processes according to disclosure include serine and / or one of its salts. If present, the amount of serine can range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, such as approximately 0.01% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.3%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.2%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.3%, and approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.2%. from about 0.05% to about 0.1%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1% or from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as about 0.1%, about 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0044] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select at least one basic amino acid and at least one additional amino acid selected from among the acidic and / or neutral amino acids. For example, in preferred embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in compositions that may be used according to the disclosure, and to select total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6. For example, the composition may have a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, such as about 4 to about 14, about 6 to about 13, about 8 to about 12, or about 9 to about 11. In other examples, the weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine may be about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12. In some preferred embodiments, the composition includes serine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or of approximately 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the previous values ​​as upper and lower bounds.

[0045] In still other preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits. Osmolytes

[0046] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example, in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include aminocarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts and derivatives, carbohydrates such as sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethyl sulfonopropionate), and urea. For the purposes of this disclosure, "osmolytes" include amino carboxylic acid derivatives, amino sulfonic acid derivatives, and salts of derivatives (collectively referred to herein as "amino acid derivatives"), but do not include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, or their salts that are described above, and do not include polyols.

[0047] Compositions that can be used in processes according to disclosure include one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the compositions include more than one osmolyte. Without wishing to make a theory of it, it is thought that the use of osmolytes according to disclosure allows treated hair to maintain a moisture balance, thereby reducing potential hair damage, or to restore a moisture balance to already damaged hair, thus allowing the Treated hair regains reduced strength and / or elasticity associated with healthy hair. It is thought that this allows or strengthens the rebuilding of bonds within the hair fiber.

[0048] In preferred embodiments, the compositions that can be used in processes according to disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes selected from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are selected from compounds of formula (II) or their salts:

[0049] (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II)

[0050] in which:

[0051] - RI, R2 and R3 are chosen independently from among the alkyl groups in C1-C4, of preferentially alkyl groups in C1-C2, more preferentially methyl;

[0052] - A is N or S;

[0053] - m and n are independently equal to 0 or 1;

[0054] - X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and

[0055] - Y is -COO- or -OSO3- ;

[0056] provided that:

[0057] • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2;

[0058] • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (in C1-C8) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (at C1-C4); and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 to 6 ring links, knowing that this ring can be substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or alkyl (at C1-C4); and

[0059] • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, - NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2.

[0060] The useful, but not limiting, polyamine compounds may include primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. By way of example, polyamines that may be selected include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polymeric polyamines or polyamines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinylamine, polyetheramine, polylysine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the useful polyamines are selected from putrescine, spermidine, and / or spermine.

[0061] Useful, but not limiting, examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Salts of betaine may also be used and are expressly included in the term "betaine" unless otherwise specified. In particularly preferred embodiments, the betaines are selected from those corresponding to formula (II). Examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in Figures 5A and 5B. As shown in [Fig. 5A], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) are in zwitterionic form, and as shown in [Fig. 5B], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X-.The counterion is not limited and can be any suitable counterion, for example a chloride ion, a bromide ion, an iodide ion, a sulfate anion, a sulfonate anion, a methyl sulfate anion, a phosphate anion, a nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used here, a "compound of formula (II)" expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound and the salt forms, whether or not this is specified.

[0062] As shown in Figures 5A and 5B, examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as "betaines"), for example, valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine (trimethyl glycine), histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, and / or dimethylsulfoniopropionate. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).

[0063] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include one or more compounds of formula (II), that is, a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising a total of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0064] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions that may be used comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In some other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R3 is methyl. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino. In still other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated,having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group (in Cl-C10), preferably alkyl (in C1-C6), more preferably saturated alkyl (in C1-C4), linear or branched; a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bicyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bicyclic) substituted by an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH),amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (C1-C6), more preferably a saturated alkyl (C1-C4), linear or branched; optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH or -CONH2. In some preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, together with the atom, of nitrogen, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group. In other preferred embodiments, RI = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if any) is a divalent alkyl group which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms.

[0065] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino, more preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 to 6 ring links, optionally substituted by a hydroxy group.

[0066] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures 5A and 5B. In more preferred embodiments, the compositions that may be used in processes according to the disclosure comprise trimethylglycine (interchangeably called glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).

[0067] Useful, but not limiting, examples of carbohydrate sugars that may be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example pentoses and / or their derivatives, or hexoses and / or their derivatives. For example, sugars may optionally be chosen from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxyribose, ribulose, deoxyribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are chosen from among the disaccharides, for example sucrose (also sucrose), maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from among the polysaccharides, for example maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more of these.In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably chosen from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0068] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition can range from about 0.01% to about 15%, such as, for example, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2.25% to about 10% from about 2.25% to about 9%, from about 2.25% to about 8%, from about 2.25% to about 7%, from about 2.25% to about 6%, from about 2.25% to about 5%, from about 2.25% to about 4%, from about 2.25% to about 3%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2%5% to approximately 5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may be approximately 2.0%, approximately 2.1%, approximately 2.2%, approximately 2.3%, approximately 2.4%, approximately 2.5%, approximately 2.6%, approximately 2.7%, approximately 2.8%, approximately 2.9%, or approximately 3.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0069] In preferred embodiments, the compositions that can be used comprise at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example, from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and the most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0070] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example, from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% in weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0071] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose the amounts of amino acids and osmolytes to obtain a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts in the composition and the total amount of osmolytes in the composition that is greater than about 0.1, for example, greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts and the total amount of osmolytes may range from about 0.1 to about 10, for example, from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5.In other embodiments, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts and the total amount of osmolytes can range from more than 1 to about 4, such as from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) in the composition and the total amount of osmolytes in the composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4 or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the upper and lower limits above.

[0072] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids selected from compounds of formula (I), and a total amount of osmolytes selected from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example, from about 1 to about 4, from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2.For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):components of formula (II) in the composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1, about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4 or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds.

[0073] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine, serine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. Carboxylic acids.

[0074] The compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the compositions may include at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, the useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that comprise, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-), or more acid functional groups and at least one carbon atom.

[0075] The carboxylic acids that may be used may optionally have a molecular weight less than approximately 500 g / mol, less than approximately 400 g / mol, less than approximately 300 g / mol, or less than approximately 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight less than approximately 300 g / mol, or less than approximately 200 g / mol.

[0076] Salts of carboxylic acids may also be used and are expressly included in the term "carboxylic acid" unless otherwise specified. Salts include organic or mineral-based salts, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in some embodiments, and in particular sodium salts.

[0077] In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or one of their salts. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid-type compounds described above. The useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acidic or salt form); They can thus include a single -COOH group (monoacid) or can include more than one, for example two -COOH groups (in acid or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form) (polyacids).The useful (poly)acids also include at least one -OH group, such as one to three or two to three -OH groups, for example, one, two, or three -OH groups. Preferably, the (poly)acids comprise a total of 2 to 8 or 3 to 6 carbon atoms and two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In some preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 3 to 6 carbon atoms, one to three -OH groups, and two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salt form). Unless otherwise specified, as used herein, the term "(poly)acid" includes both monoacids and polyacids.

[0078] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that may be chosen include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some In embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or one of its salts.

[0079] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that may be selected include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0080] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or one of its salts.

[0081] In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts.In certain embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to choose citric acid, lactic acid and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; and preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

[0082] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) can range from approximately 0.5% to approximately 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids can range from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, such as approximately 1% to approximately 12%, approximately 1% to approximately 10%, approximately 1% to approximately 9%, approximately 1% to approximately 8%, or approximately 1% to approximately 7%. approximately 1% to approximately 6%, approximately 1% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 1% to approximately 5% approximately 1% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 1% to approximately 4%, approximately 1% to approximately 3.5% approximately 1% to approximately 3%, approximately 1% to approximately 2.5%, approximately 1% to approximately 2% approximately 1% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 15%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 12%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 10%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 9%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 8%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 7%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 5%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, approximately 2% to approximately 15%, approximately 2% to approximately 12%, approximately 2% to approximately 10%, approximately 2% to approximately 9%, approximately 2% to approximately 8%, approximately 2% to approximately 7%, approximately 2% to approximately 6%, approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 2% to approximately 5%, approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 2% to approximately 4%, approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, approximately 2% to approximately 3%, approximately 2% to approximately 2.5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 12%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 6%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 4.5%approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 3.5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, approximately 3% to approximately 15%, approximately 3% to approximately 12%, approximately 3% to approximately 10%, approximately 3% to approximately 9%, approximately 3% to approximately 8%, approximately 3% to approximately 7%, approximately 3% to approximately 6%, approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 3% to approximately 5%, approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 3% to approximately 4%, approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 7%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 5%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, approximately 4% to approximately 15%, approximately 4% to approximately 12%, approximately 4% to approximately 10%, approximately 4% to approximately 9%, approximately 4% to approximately 8%, approximately 4% to approximately 7%, approximately 4% to approximately 6%, approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 4% to approximately 5%approximately 4% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 15%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 12%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 10%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 9%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 8%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 7%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 6%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 5%, approximately 5% to approximately 15%, approximately 5% to approximately 12%, approximately 5% to approximately 10%, approximately 5% to approximately 9%, approximately 5% to approximately 8%, approximately 5% to approximately 7%, approximately 5% to approximately 6.5%, approximately 5% to approximately 6%, approximately 5% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 5.5% to approximately 15%, approximately 5.5% to approximately 12%, approximately 5.5% to approximately 10%, approximately 5.5% to about 9%, about 5.5% to about 8%, about 5.5% to about 7%, about 5.5% to about 6.5%, about 5.5% to about 6%, about 6% to about 15%, about 6% to about 12%, about 6% to about 10%, about 6% to about 9%, about 6% to about 8%, about 6% to about 7%, or about 6% to about 6.5% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] In certain embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose quantities of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and the total quantity of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and the total quantity of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.1, greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, such as about 0.8 to about 1.5, about 0.8 to about 1.35, or about 0.8 to about 1.2.In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.2. Solvents

[0085] The compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one solvent. In various embodiments, the solvent can be chosen from water, non-aqueous solvents, or a combination thereof.

[0086] In preferred embodiments, the solvent includes water. In some embodiments, the composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% of water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 95% by weight, such as about 50% to about 90%, about 55% to about 90%, about 60% to about 90%, or about 60% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] In other preferred embodiments, the solvent includes at least one non-aqueous solvent. Non-limiting examples of non-aqueous solvents that may be used include, for example, glycerin, Cl-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, lamellar lipid materials, or combinations thereof.The non-aqueous solvent may be chosen from among organic solvents, for example monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers, such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.

[0088] Preferably, the compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols may be selected from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that may be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols can be chosen from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 triols, either of which can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.

[0089] By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol may be chosen. In some embodiments, the polyols are selected from, for example, propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4- pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 4-methylmethyl-1,2-pentanediol, or combinations of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the polyols may be selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, or combinations of two or more of these.In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin, or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example, C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols.In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more glycols, for example propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dipropylene glycol.

[0090] If present, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents in the composition may range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%, such as from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 2% to approximately 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably selected from polyols.In some embodiments, the composition comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 11%, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally further wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, . propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more of these, preferably selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more of these. Surfactants

[0091] The compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure may optionally include at least one surfactant. For example, the compositions may include one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, and in some embodiments, the compositions may include mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.

[0092] Although the compositions may optionally include one or more anionic and / or non-ionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic and / or non-ionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments, the compositions comprise less than about 3%, such as less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.75%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.2%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.01%, or less than about 0.001% of anionic and / or non-ionic surfactants.

[0093] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the composition(s) as disclosed. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more cationizable functional groups in the composition as disclosed.Other non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyldimethylethylbenzylammonium chloride (Quatemium-14), Quatemium-22, Quaternium-26, Quatemium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine ​​hydrochloride, diethanolammonium phosphate POE(10) oleyl ether, and diethanolammonium phosphate. POE (3) oleylether, alkonium tallow chloride, dimethyldioctadecylammonium bentonite, the . stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquatemium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyltrihydroxyethylpropylenediamine dihydrofluoride, suiftrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0094] If present, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be up to approximately 10%, such as up to approximately 9%, up to approximately 8%, up to approximately 7%, up to approximately 6%, up to approximately 5%, up to approximately 4%, up to approximately 3.5%, up to approximately 3%, up to approximately 2.5%, up to approximately 2%, up to approximately 1.5%, up to approximately 1%, or up to approximately 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be from approximately 0.001% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 6%, or from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In at least some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include secondary and tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives where the aliphatic radical may be a straight or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium maismophopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate. sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium mausamphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium mausamphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium mausamphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocaminopropionate, triethanolamine cocaminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanolamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine cocoamphopropionate, triethanolamine mausamphopropionate, lauraminopropionate triethanolamine, triethanolamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanolamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine lauroamphopropionate,triethanolamine maize amphopropionate, triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, lauryl aminopropylglycine, and lauryl diethylenediaminoglycine.

[0096] Betaine surfactants may also be used. For example, cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, cetyldimethylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethylbetaine, stearylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgamma-carboxypropylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethylbetaine, cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropylbetaine, oleylbetaine, or cocamidopropylbetaine may be chosen.

[0097] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants can be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may range from about 0.001% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants.

[0098] In some preferred embodiments, the surfactant does not include behentrimonium chloride. In some preferred embodiments, the surfactant comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more alkylamidoamines, for example, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine. Fatty compounds

[0099] Optionally, the compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0100] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be aminofunctionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that may be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane.For example, the composition may include at least one silicone selected from amodimethicone, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, or a mixture of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a silicone oil component which comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.

[0101] By way of further examples, silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and / or at the end of the chain of silicones, each of which groups contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0102] In some embodiments, the compositions that may be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, "fatty alcohol" means any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or more, such as, for example, C8 or more, C10 or more, or C12 or more, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols can be alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.

[0103] By way of example, fatty alcohols may be selected from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0104] The non-limiting useful fatty acids may be linear- or branched-chain fatty acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids, as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, or combinations thereof.

[0105] In some embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be chosen. For example, esters of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or poly-alcohols may be used, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10. In other embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. By way of non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, myristyle stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-Octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyle or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate,diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, Diethylene glycol diisononanoate and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be chosen. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or one fatty alcohol ester, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

[0106] In some embodiments, the compositions that can be used in processes according to disclosure include at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of waxes that can be used include beeswax, hydrogenated olive alkyl esters, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork or sugarcane fiber wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, palm kernel glycerides / hydrogenated palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, aurantium dulcium (orange) bark wax, theobroma grandiflorum butter, helianthusus annuus (sunflower) wax, siliconyl candelilla wax, Chinese wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, esters of cetyl, hydrogenated castor wax;Triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes and polyethylene waxes obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of two or more of any of these waxes. In certain modes of; Preferred formulations include a wax component which comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl esters.

[0107] In certain embodiments, the composition comprises one or more fatty compounds selected from oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin (for example, lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, tortoiseshell oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (for example, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, or also linear alkanes,branched and / or cyclic which are facultatively volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane), mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols (for example, mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, C5-C9 dipentaerythrityl esters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters or hydrogenated castor oil polyesters), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils, or mixtures of two or more of these. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids that may be used include facultatively branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, or mixtures of two or more of these.

[0108] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition may range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%, such as from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, or from approximately 5% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one fatty compound selected from silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes, or combinations thereof, where the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition ranges from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, preferably from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, more preferably from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, and most preferably from approximately 5% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents

[0109] Compositions that may be used in processes according to the disclosure optionally include at least one thickening agent. Thickening agents Useful ones include, but are not limited to, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulosic derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers and beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymers, acrylate copolymers, polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEI-10), naturally occurring polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, associated particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide and microcrystalline cellulose, celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and guars such as hydroxypropyl guar.

[0110] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylate copolymer and acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer.

[0111] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01% to about 8%, such as from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Direct dyes

[0112] Optionally, the compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include one or more direct dyes. Direct dyes, which are different from oxidation dyes, diffuse superficially onto the hair fibers.

[0113] The direct dyes that may be selected include natural and synthetic direct dyes, which may be cationic, anionic, or nonionic. Useful examples of direct dyes include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines, and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes; xanthene direct dyes; triarylmethane dyes; natural direct dyes; and combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the direct dyes are selected from those that comprise at least one halogenated aromatic ring.

[0114] In certain embodiments, the direct dyes are selected from among the anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are also called "acid" direct tinctures because of their affinity with alkaline substances. Anionic direct tinctures can be chosen from acid nitrate direct tinctures, acid azo tinctures, acid azinic tinctures, acid triarylmethanic tinctures, acid indoamine tinctures, acid anthraquinone tinctures, indigoids and natural acid tinctures, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0115] Les teintures anioniques peuvent inclure Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2, Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow, Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38, ou des combinaisons de deux ou plus de celles-ci.A titre d'exemples supplémentaires, les teintures anioniques azoïques telles que Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, et Acid Yellow 17 ; les teintures d'anthraquinone telles que Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3, Purple EXT No. 2, et Acid Black 48 ; les teintures d'anthraquinone telles que Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3, Purple EXT No.2, and Acid Black 48; triarylmethane tinctures such as Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid green 3, Acid green 5, and Acid Green 50; xanthene-derived tinctures such as Acid Yellow 73, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, and Acid Violet 9; indole-derived tinctures such as Acid Blue 74; and quinoline-derived tinctures such as Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3, and Acid Yellow 5, or combinations of two or more of these, may be chosen.

[0116] Non-limiting examples of cationic direct dyes, also called "basic" direct dyes, include Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0117] Among the natural direct dyes, the following may be mentioned without limitation: lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, Purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins, or combinations of two or more of these. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural tinctures, and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna, may also be used.

[0118] According to certain embodiments, the direct ionic dye(s) is / are selected from blue or violet dyes such as Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43 (also called EXT violet No. 2), Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 9, Acid Blue 74, Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, or combinations of two or more of these, preferably Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9 and Basic Violet 2, more preferably Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0119] If present, the total amount of direct dyes may range from about 0.001% to about 10%, such as from about 0.001% to about 5%, from about 0.001% to about 3%, from about 0.001% to about 2%, from about 0.001% to about 1%, from about 0.005% to about 5%, from about 0.005% to about 3%, from about 0.005% to about 2%, from about 0.005% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, or from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components

[0120] Compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.

[0121] The total quantity of auxiliary components, if present, typically ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the individual quantities of each component or the total quantity of components may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] Compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure typically have a pH less than or equal to 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5 or less than or equal to about 4. For example, compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75 or about 4, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0123] The compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, the compositions may be a liquid, a gel, a gel-cream, a high, medium or low density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc. II. PROCESSES

[0124] The disclosure relates to hair treatment processes, for example, for building or rebuilding broken bonds in the hair fiber. Surprisingly, hair treated according to the disclosure shows reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity, particularly hair that has been damaged by aggressive chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc., even compared to hair treated with other products claimed to rebuild bonds in the hair. Without wishing to develop a theory, it is believed that the enhanced bond-building effect is due to the unexpected synergistic effects of the combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids, which were not previously known.

[0125] The methods include applying a composition as disclosed (also referred to as a "bond-building composition") to the hair, optionally leaving the bond-building composition on the hair for a period ("processing time", "resting period" or "set-on time"), and optionally rinsing the composition from the hair.

[0126] The application period may last for a time deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the hair, such as approximately 30 seconds, approximately 1 minute, approximately 2 minutes, approximately 5 minutes, approximately 10 minutes, approximately 15 minutes, approximately 20 minutes, approximately 30 minutes, approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 hours, approximately 4 hours, approximately 6 hours, approximately 8 hours, approximately 10 hours, approximately 12 hours, approximately 16 hours, approximately 20 hours, approximately 24 hours, etc., or may vary by a period of time using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits. By way of non-limiting example, the application period may range from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 4 hours, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 2 hours, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, from approximately 20 minutes to approximately 1 hour, from approximately 1 hour to approximately 12 hours, from approximately 2 hours to approximately 10 hours, from approximately 4 hours to approximately 8 hours, from approximately 8 hours to approximately 24 hours, from approximately 8 hours to approximately 12 hours, etc. For example, a processing time can be overnight or until the next hair rinse or shampoo according to the user's usual hygiene rules.

[0127] Although not required, the processes for using bond-building compositions according to the disclosure may also include a step of heating the hair to which the composition has been applied, for example, during the resting period while the composition is on the hair. For example, a hair dryer, a hair dryer hood, etc., may be used.

[0128] At least in some embodiments, the hair that can be treated according to the described processes may be hair that has been previously bleached, dyed, straightened, relaxed, etc. It will be understood that the hair that is treated according to various processes described herein may be hair that has been previously subjected to such chemical treatments and therefore requires repair, bond building, or the like. Thus, the processes may be carried out at any time after such a chemical treatment when the benefits of repair, bond building, etc., are desired. For example, the processes may be carried out within six months following a chemical treatment such as bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, etc.such as within five months, four months, three months, two months, one month, three weeks, two weeks, one week, five days, four days, three days, two days, one day, 12 hours, 8 hours, 6 hours, 4 hours, 2 hours, or one hour following such processing. The period during which the processes are intended to be implemented according to the disclosure is not limited.

[0129] In one exemplary embodiment, a bond-building composition according to the disclosure may be applied to the hair, for example to build or rebuild bonds in the hair fiber, to improve the overall health and appearance of the hair, to improve the elasticity of the hair fibers, to prevent or reduce damage to the hair fibers, etc., by applying a composition to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then, optionally, drying and / or styling the hair according to the individual's habits.

[0130] In other embodiments, a bond-building composition according to disclosure may be applied to the hair before, during and / or after a chemical hair treatment process. For example, such a routine may include applying a composition as disclosed to wet, damp or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate treatment time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then substantially immediately afterwards (i.e. within the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing or perming composition to the hair.Another such routine might include applying a chemical treatment, such as a bleaching, dyeing, smoothing, relaxing, or perming product, to the hair, and substantially immediately afterward (i.e., within the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with an intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a bond-building composition as disclosed to the hair. Thus, it is envisaged that compositions as disclosed could be incorporated into a chemical hair treatment process, thereby reducing, minimizing, or preventing hair damage that might otherwise result from such harsh chemical treatments.

[0131] Surprisingly, hair treated with compositions and processes as disclosed exhibits less damage than hair not treated with compositions and processes as disclosed, at least in part due to the building of bonds in the hair fiber. The reduction in damage is particularly noticeable in hair damaged by harsh chemical treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc., as well as by repeated styling, for example with heat or styling tools. Hair repaired using compositions and processes as disclosed may exhibit lower elasticity and / or higher tensile strength than similarly damaged but untreated hair as disclosed, even compared to hair treated with other products that claim to build or rebuild bonds.

[0132] The expression "and / or" should be understood as including both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, "amino acids and / or their salts" means "amino acids and their salts" as well as "amino acids or their salts", and expressly covers either case.

[0133] As used herein, the term “salts” throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example, in an aqueous solution.

[0134] As used herein, if a component is described as being present "in an amount less than or equal to" a certain amount, it is expected that this component is in fact present in the composition, namely, present in an amount greater than 0%.

[0135] All quantities indicated here are relative to the quantity of active material, unless otherwise stated.

[0136] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated.

[0137] As used herein, the expression "apply a composition to the hair," and its variations, is intended to refer to bringing the hair into contact with at least one of the compositions in the disclosure, in any manner whatsoever. It may also refer to bringing the hair into contact with an effective quantity.

[0138] The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of the hair. The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to bringing the hair into contact with the compositions of this disclosure.

[0139] As used herein, the expressions "bond building," "bond rebuilding," "bond formation," "bond construction," or similar terms are used interchangeably to signify that internal bonds within the hair fiber are formed or reformed after such bonds have been broken. For example, disulfide bonds in the hair fiber are typically broken during chemical treatments such as bleaching, perming, etc., but can be reformed or rebuilt when the hair is treated according to the disclosure. Although the degree of bond building achieved will vary depending on factors such as the degree of damage to the treated hair, the duration of the treatment, etc., it is anticipated that any amount of bond building will be encompassed within the processes of the disclosure.It is possible to determine whether the bonds were built by various processes known in the art, such as tensile testing, cysteic acid testing, DSC, etc.

[0140] Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, compositions may include less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.01%, less than about 0.001%, or less than about 0.0001% of the specified material.

[0141] The following examples are intended to illustrate ways in which this disclosure can be implemented, but are not intended to be exhaustive. EXAMPLES

[0142] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active substances, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Compositions

[0143] Compositions 1A-1G according to disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 1. The pH of each of the IA to IG bond-building compositions was approximately 3.5.

[0144] [Table 1] TABLE 1 IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F IG Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric and / or lactic acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 4.1 Neutral amino acid(s) 0.5 Preservative(s) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Solvents (water and / or non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS QS QS

[0145] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of bond-building components: carboxylic acids (citric and / or lactic acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine and / or serine).

[0146] Example 2 - Assessment of damage repair

[0147] In order to evaluate the ability of the compositions according to the disclosure to rebuild bonds and to minimize, prevent or repair hair damage, the following studies were conducted. Example 2A# - Ultra-bleached hair

[0148] Eight strands (SI to S8) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a ratio a 1:1.5 mixture (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) was prepared and treated at a temperature of approximately 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then seven of the strands (S1-S7) were subjected to the following treatment routines (strand S8 was not treated after rinsing the hair bleaching composition).

[0149] The SI strand was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.

[0150] Strands S2 to S7 were each cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions IA to 1F (Table 2A) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.

[0151] [Table 2] TABLE 2A IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F Wick S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 S7

[0152] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S1-S8 was studied after the first and fifth days. Elasticity was evaluated to determine whether the hair fibers stretched, and if so, whether they returned to their original state (lower elasticity, i.e. healthy), whether the fibers stretched easily and remained stretched (higher elasticity, i.e. damaged) or whether the hair fibers broke during the tests.

[0153] The evaluation was carried out by stretching a standardized quantity of wet hair fibers, with two experts independently evaluating each strand. The experts were trained to stretch the area of ​​the strand being assessed by uniformly applying a manual traction force using their hands / fingers. The behavior of the strand was classified by each expert on a 6-level scale as follows, with the result reported for each strand being the average of the two:

[0154] 0 = Natural and healthy hair (no damage);

[0155] 1 = Low elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a slight elasticity, returning to the initial state after testing);

[0156] 2 = Moderate elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a elasticity, returning to the initial state after the test);

[0157] 3 = High elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit elasticity and some hair fibers do not return to their initial state after the test);

[0158] 4 = Very high elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit elasticity (and most hair fibers do not return to their initial state after the test); and

[0159] 5 = Immediate rupture (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a high elasticity and break during testing).

[0160] The results showed that the hair fibers of strands S2 to S7, treated with one of the compositions IA to 1F, surprisingly exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of strands SI or S8 both after day 1 ([Fig. 1A]) and day 5 ([Fig. 1B]). In other words, the hair of strands SI and S8 was damaged by the aggressive bleaching process, resulting in increased elasticity, while the damaged strands S2 to S7 were repaired by treatment with one of the compositions IA to 1F. Example 2B# - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair

[0161] Eight strands (S9-S16) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then seven of the strands (S9-S15) were subjected to the following treatment routines.

[0162] The S9 strand was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterwards, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair. The treatment was repeated a second time. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.

[0163] The S10-S15 strands were each cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions IA to 1F (Table 2B) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for use with flat irons were applied to the hair. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.

[0164] [Table 3] TABLE 2B IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F Wick S10 SU S12 S13 S14 S15

[0165] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S9-S16 was studied in the same way as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of the strands S10 to S15, treated with one of the compositions IA to 1F, surprisingly exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of the strands S9 and S16 both after day 1 ([Fig.2A]) and day 5 ([Fig.2B]).

[0166] Examples 2A-2B therefore demonstrate that treating hair that has been damaged by aggressive chemical processes with a composition as disclosed amazingly rebuilds bonds and repairs damage, leaving hair stronger and less elastic than without treatment. Example 3 - Compositions

[0167] Compositions 2A to 2E according to the disclosure were prepared as indicated in Table 3.

[0168] [Table 4] TABLE 3 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 Silicone oil(s) (dimethicone and / or amodimethicone) 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 1.0 Fatty alcohol(s) (stearyl alcohol and / or cetearyl alcohol) 4.5 4.5 6.0 5.0 6.0 Cetyl esters 1.0 Cationic surfactant(s) (cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and / or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.5 1.6 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.1 1.1 1.1 0.2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.8 1.0 1.5 1.5 0.4 Auxiliary component(s) (pH adjusters, preservatives, vitamins, extracts) <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS Measured pH 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 4.0

[0169] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of bond-building components: carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine).

[0170] Example 4 - Assessment of damage repair

[0171] In order to evaluate the ability of the bond-building compositions according to the disclosure to rebuild bonds and to minimize, prevent or repair hair damage, the following studies were conducted.

[0172] A comparator product, Cl, had the following list of ingredients on the packaging: Water (Aqua), bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, propylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, glycerin, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, quaternium-91, sodium benzoate, cetrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium chloride, parfum, tetrasodium EDTA, polyquatemium-37, benzyl benzoate, etidronic acid, ascorbic acid, phytantriol, tocopheryl acetate, Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice, panthenol, Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, citric acid, potassium sorbate. The Cl formula, which is described as a "pre-shampoo hair treatment that reduces breakage and split ends" "For visibly healthier hair, split ends" is presented as part of a system that claims to "reform broken disulfide bonds damaged by chemical treatments, heat, and styling." The instructions for the Cl formula are to use the product before using the shampoo ("Cl-S") and conditioner ("Cl-C") that are part of this system, both of which include bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate as the listed active ingredient.

[0173] Example 4A - Ultra-bleached hair: Elasticity and resistance

[0174] Five strands (S17 to S21) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55°C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then four of the strands (S17-S20) underwent the following treatment routines (strand S21 was not treated after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).

[0175] The S17 strand was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0176] Strands S18 and S19 were each cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the lather into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions 2D (S18) or 2B (S19) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0177] The S20 strand was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it so as to ensure that the hair was completely The hair was coated. The Cl composition was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with Cl-S shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing until all the shampoo was removed. Next, Cl-C conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0178] Once the five treatments of the S17-S20 strands were completed, the integrity of the hair fibers of each of the S17-S21 strands was studied in the same way as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of the S18 and S19 strands, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of the S17 and S20-S21 strands ([Fig.3]).

[0179] Next, the strength was evaluated using a Dia-Stron fiber tensile testing instrument called the MTT (Miniature Tensile Tester). The results showed that the hairs in strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, were surprisingly stronger than the hairs in strands S17 or S20, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers in strands S18-S19. [Fig. 4A] shows the breaking strength (MPa) for a control strand (CTL), made of the same hair but unbleached, strand S17, which was bleached but without further treatment, and strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and strand S20, treated with the comparative compositions. As shown in [Fig.[4A], the breaking strength of the control strand (CTL) was more than twice that of strand S17, demonstrating the significant damage caused by the bleaching process. After five (5) treatments with composition 2D (strand S18), 2B (strand S19), or the comparative compositions (S20), the breaking strength of the treated strands increased compared to strand S17. Surprisingly, the increase in breaking strength for strands S18-S19 was considered statistically significant compared to that of strand S20, meaning that compositions 2D and 2B repaired the hair by rebuilding the bonds within the hair to a greater extent than the comparative compositions.

[0180] Example 4B - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Elasticity

[0181] Four strands (S22 to S25) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with an oxidizing composition Commercially available (40V hydrogen peroxide) was mixed at a ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder: oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and for a five-week treatment period, the four strands were subjected to the following routine twice a week.

[0182] First, the strands were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0183] Three of the strands (S22-S24) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.

[0184] Strand S22 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. A hair mask was applied and left on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0185] The strand S23 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterwards, Composition 2C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterwards, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed. Carefully. A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for straightening irons were applied to the hair.

[0186] The S24 strand was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, after which the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with shampoo Cl-S by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, conditioner Cl-C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for use with a flat iron were applied to the hair.

[0187] After the five-week treatment period, the elasticity and resistance of the hair fibers of each of the strands S22-S25 were studied in the same manner as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of strand S23, treated with composition 2C, exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of either strand S22 or S24 and S25.

[0188] Example 4C - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Resistance

[0189] Four strands (S26 to S29) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened with formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed and, over a five-week treatment period, the four strands were subjected to the following routine.

[0190] First, the strands were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0191] Three of the strands (S27-S29) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.

[0192] Strands S27 and S28 were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. One of the compositions 2B (S28) or 2D (S27) was applied to the hair and left on, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0193] Strand S29 was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, after which the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with shampoo Cl-S by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, conditioner Cl-C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for use with a flat iron were applied to the hair.

[0194] The MTT tests were carried out in the same manner as described in Example 4A. The results showed that the hairs in strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, were surprisingly stronger than the hairs in strands S26 or S29, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers in strands S27-S28. Figure 4B shows the breaking strength (MPa) for a control strand (CTL), made of the same hair but unbleached, strand S26, which was bleached but without further treatment, strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and strand S29, treated with the comparative compositions. As shown in [Fig.4B], the breaking strength of the control strand (CTL) was approximately three times greater than that of the S26 strand, showing the significant damage caused by the bleaching process.After five (5) treatments with composition 2B (strand S28), 2D (strand S27), the breaking strength of the treated strands was increased compared to strand S26, and the improvement was considered statistically significant. [Fig. 4B]. However, it shows that the breaking strength of the wick treated with the comparative composition (S29) did not show any improvement in breaking strength.

[0195] Examples 4A to 4C thus demonstrate that treating hair damaged by aggressive chemical processes with a composition as disclosed remarkably rebuilds bonds and repairs damage. The damage repair achieved with compositions as disclosed is also remarkably superior to that achieved with a commercial product claiming to do the same. Example 5 - Compositions

[0196] Compositions 3A to 3D according to the disclosure were prepared as indicated in Table 4.

[0197] [Table 5] TABLE 4 3A 3B 3C 3D Basic amino acid(s) 5.50 5.50 3.80 3.80 Thickening agent(s) 0.30 0.90 0.90 Non-ionic surfactant(s) 0.30 1.50 0.50 0.50 Amphoteric surfactant(s) 0.30 Conditioning agent(s) 0.80 Cationic surfactant(s) 2.10 3.84 3.00 3.00 Glycine betaine 2.50 2.50 1.80 1.80 Citric acid 6.00 6.00 5.50 5.50 Wax(s) 0.50 0.50 Fatty alcohol(s) 6.30 6.30 Vegetable oil(s) 0.50 Fatty acid ester(s) 2.50 1.50 Additives (preservatives, fragrance) <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS

[0198] The 3A-3D compositions, which contained a synergistic combination of bond-building components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine)), are intended to rebuild bonds in the hair fiber and minimize, prevent, and / or repair hair damage. The compositions are also intended to improve the elasticity and tensile strength of the treated hair fibers. Example 6# - Additional Compositions

[0199] The following compositions according to the disclosure may be prepared and are intended to rebuild the bonds in the hair fiber and minimize, prevent and / or repair damage to the hair.

[0200] [Table 6] TABLE 5 4A 4B 4C 4D 4E Arginine 2.0 9.8 2.5 Lysine 2.5 2.0 10 Valine betaine 2.0 4.5 2.0 1.0 4.0 Citric acid 3 2.0 9.8 Lactic acid 2.0 10 2 Serine 0.05 0.5 0.05 0.5 Fatty compound(s) 10 8.0 9.0 15 Cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant(s) 3.0 0.5 2.5 5.0 Additional component(s) (e.g., pH adjusters, vitamins, preservatives, extracts, thickeners) <5 <5 <5 <5 <5 Solvent(s) (water and / or non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS

[0201] The above examples demonstrate that the compositions and processes according to the disclosure amazingly and unexpectedly rebuild bonds and repair hair that has been damaged, prevent or minimize hair damage and reduce hair elasticity.

Claims

Demands

1. A method for building bonds in hair, comprising: (i) applying a bond-building composition to the hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from amino acids or their salts; (b) at least one osmolyte; (c) at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; and (d) water, and (ii) optionally rinsing the hair.

2. A method according to claim 1, wherein the bond-building composition comprises a) at least one amino acid selected from the compounds of formula (I) or their salts: ÇOOH (!) H — Ç — N(H)PR in which: - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and - when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 ring links, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from the hydroxyl or alkyl (in C1-C4); or - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl group (in C1-C12), linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (in C1-C4), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH 2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.

3. A method according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the bond-building composition comprises a) at least one amino acid selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.

4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the bond-building composition comprises b) at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, betaines, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising at least one betaine selected from compounds of formula (II) or its salts: (R1)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II) wherein: - RI, R2, and R3 are independently selected from C1-C4 alkyl groups; - A is N or S; - m and n are independently 0 or 1; - X is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C6 divalent alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2) groups; and - Y is -COO- or -OSO3- ;provided that: • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon chain (C1-C10), saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2; • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a saturated, linear or branched hydrogen or alkyl (C1-C8) atom, and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring links, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from the hydroxyl or alkyl (Cl-C4);and • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or; optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.

5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the bond-building composition comprises (b) at least one compound of formula (II) selected from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, preferably comprising glycine betaine.

6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the bond-building composition comprises (c) at least one compound selected from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.

7. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the total amount of amino acids and their salts in the bond-building composition ranges from about 2% to about 15%, preferably from about 2.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 3.5% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the total amount of osmolytes in the bond-building composition ranges from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the total quantity of carboxylic acids and their salts in the bond building composition ranges from about 3% to about 15%, preferably from about 3% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the bond-building composition comprises: a) at least one compound selected from arginine or its salts; b) glycine betaine or one of its salts; c) at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids having from 3 to 14 carbon atoms or their salts, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid, their salts or combinations thereof; d) water and optionally at least one polyol; and e) optionally at least one film-forming agent.