Composition for lightening keratin fibers and method for lightening keratin fibers using this composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for lightening keratin fibers comprising at least one (bi)carbonate, at least one silicate, at least one particular polycarboxylic acid and at least one polysaccharide as well as a method for lightening keratin fibers using this composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition for lightening keratin fibers and method for lightening keratin fibers using this composition Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for lightening keratin fibers comprising at least one (bi)carbonate, at least one silicate, at least one particular polycarboxylic acid and at least one polysaccharide as well as a method for lightening keratin fibers using this composition. Context of the invention

[0002] When a person wants to change their hair color, especially when they want to achieve a lighter color than their original color, it is often necessary to first lighten or bleach the hair. To do this, lightening or bleaching products are used.

[0003] Hair lightening is assessed by the height of tone which characterizes the degree or level of lightening. The notion of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, a tone separating each shade from the one which immediately follows or precedes it. This definition and the classification of natural shades is well known to hairdressing professionals and published in the book "Sciences of hair treatments" by Charles ZVIAK 1988, Ed. Masson, pp.215 and 278.

[0004] Tone heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blond), with one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.

[0005] It is known to lighten or bleach hair with lightening or bleaching compositions containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present and the pH conditions, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively low lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, particularly when the treated hair is dark, persulfates are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.However, the lightening obtained by the action of such a combination is not always satisfactory because the hair is obtained with unattractive yellow and / or orange highlights, which complicates subsequent coloring by limiting it to obtaining warm tones. In addition, lightening compositions based on persulfates can lead to a degradation of the quality of the fiber.

[0006] Furthermore, persulfate-based compositions are generally in the form of a powdery composition which is mixed with an aqueous oxidizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide before application to the hair. Mixing the two compositions is therefore also not easy. This results not only in a relatively long mixing time but also in difficulties in obtaining a homogeneous mixture or even in difficulties in applying the mixture obtained to the hair. The mixture can in fact be difficult to distribute homogeneously over the entire head of hair, in particular on curly or frizzy hair, which can lead to unwanted non-uniform lightening performance.

[0007] Furthermore, persulfate-based compositions are generally not chemically compatible with the presence of oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes in order to be able to bleach the hair fiber and color it in a single step. Thus, when it is desired to simultaneously bleach and color keratin fibers, a two-step process is generally used with a first step of bleaching the keratin fibers followed by a second step of coloring the keratin fibers using a coloring composition comprising one or more direct dyes and / or one or more oxidation dyes.

[0008] Thus, there is a real need to develop a composition which makes it possible to obtain effective lightening of keratin fibers, in particular dark keratin fibers, with better neutralization of yellow and / or orange reflections. Such a composition must also be more respectful of the quality of the fibers, in particular by minimizing their degradation and present very good qualities of use, in particular by being easy to mix with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide before use, the resulting mixture also being easy to apply to the keratin fibers. Furthermore, such a composition must also be compatible with the presence of direct and / or oxidation dyes in order to obtain a good color build-up, powerful, natural and chromatic colors and also make it possible to achieve a wider range of colors.Finally, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that will help to address these environmental challenges.

[0009] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all or part of these objectives can be achieved by the composition according to the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0010] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition (A) comprising: - one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate generating systems, and their mixtures, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and their mixtures; - one or more silicates; - one or more compounds E chosen from the polycarboxylic acids of the following formula (I), their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) Formula (I) in which: ■ Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2 -COOH; And ■ Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and ■ R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, the compound(s) E being present in composition (A) in a total content of at least 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A); and - one or more polysaccharides.

[0011] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for lightening keratin fibers comprising the application to the keratin fibers of the composition (A) as defined above.

[0012] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to a process for lightening keratin fibers comprising: i) a step of mixing composition (A) as defined previously with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide; and ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i).

[0013] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to a device with at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibers, comprising: i) at least one first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined previously; and ii) at least one second compartment containing a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0014] According to a fifth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a com position (A) as defined previously, for the lightening of keratin fibers. Detailed description of the invention

[0015] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0016] ■ by "keratin fibers" we mean fibers of human or animal origin such as than hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably hair;

[0017] ■ by "(bi)carbonate" we mean a carbonate or a bicarbonate;

[0018] ■ by "silicate" we mean a salt of a silicic acid.

[0019] ■ by "salt" we mean an addition salt with an organic acid or base or mineral. The addition salts with an acid are chosen in particular from addition salts with acids such as hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, tosylic acid, benzenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid or acetic acid. The addition salts with a base are chosen in particular from addition salts with bases such as the alkalizing agents described below, in particular alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0020] ■ by "direct dye" we mean a natural and / or synthetic dye, including in the form of extract(s), different from oxidation dyes. These are colored compounds that will diffuse superficially on the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or non-ionic.

[0021] The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

[0022] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “includes from ... to ...”, “formed from ... to ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0023] The terms "lightening" and "bleaching" are synonymous and may be used interchangeably. Composition (A)

[0024] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition (A) as defined above.

[0025] The applicant has surprisingly found that the composition (A) according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain effective lightening of keratin fibres with good levels of lightening (power of lightening obtained) and better neutralization of yellow and / or orange reflections. Furthermore, composition (A) according to the invention is more respectful of the quality of the fibers by minimizing their degradation in particular. Finally, composition (A) according to the invention has very good qualities of use, in particular being easy to mix with an aqueous oxidizing composition of hydrogen peroxide before use and easy to apply to keratin fibers after mixing with the oxidizing composition. Compounds C

[0026] The composition (A) according to the invention comprises one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof.

[0027] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds C chosen from carbonates, bicarbonates and their mixtures.

[0028] More preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds C chosen from ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0029] Carbonates and / or carbonate-generating systems

[0030] The compound(s) C present in composition (A) may be chosen from carbonates, carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates.

[0031] By "carbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates carbonate in situ such as for example carbon dioxide in water or percarbonate in water.

[0032] When they are present in composition (A), the carbonates are preferably chosen from: - alkali metal carbonates; - alkaline earth metal carbonates; - lanthanide carbonates; - transition metal carbonates; - bismuth carbonate; - cadmium carbonate; - thallium carbonate; - zinc carbonate; - compounds of formula (N+R'RdL'R4^, CO32 in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; - guanidine carbonate; - their mixtures.

[0033] More preferably, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, cesium carbonate, lithium carbonate, carbonate magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, barium carbonate, strontium carbonate, cerium carbonate, lanthanum carbonate, yttrium carbonate, copper (II) carbonate, manganese carbonate, nickel carbonate, silver carbonate, zirconium carbonate, bismuth carbonate, cadmium carbonate, thallium carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate, tetraethylammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Even more preferably, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, cesium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, cerium carbonate, manganese carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0035] Most preferably, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, ammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0036] In a particularly preferred manner, the carbonate included in composition (A) is ammonium carbonate.

[0037] Bicarbonates and / or bicarbonate-generating systems

[0038] The compound(s) C present in composition (A) are preferably chosen from bicarbonates, bicarbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from bicarbonates.

[0039] By "bicarbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates bicarbonate in situ such as for example from carbon dioxide in water or by buffering a carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.

[0040] When they are present in composition (A), the bicarbonates are preferably chosen from: - alkali metal bicarbonates; - alkaline earth metal bicarbonates; - compounds of formula N+R'R2R3R4, HCO3 in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; - aminoguanidine bicarbonate; - their mixtures.

[0041] More preferably, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, lithium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, choline bicarbonate, triethylammonium bicarbonate, aminoguanidine bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Even more preferably, the bicarbonates are chosen from bicarbonate of sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Most preferably, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] In a particularly preferred manner, the bicarbonate included in composition (A) is ammonium bicarbonate.

[0045] The bicarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, or from Badoit water.

[0046] Preferably, the compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, most preferably ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0047] When present in composition (A), the bicarbonate(s) and / or the bicarbonate-generating system(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, most preferably ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0048] When they are present in the composition (A), the bicarbonate(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, better still from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0049] When it is present in the composition (A), the ammonium bicarbonate is preferably present in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, better still from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Silicates

[0050] The composition (A) according to the invention further comprises one or more silicates.

[0051] The silicate(s) are preferably water-soluble.

[0052] By "water-soluble silicate" is meant a silicate which has a solubility in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight.

[0053] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] More preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Even more preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates.

[0056] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from the compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate (CAS: [1344-09-8]) and / or Sodium Metasilicate (CAS: [6834-92-0]).

[0057] The silicate(s) are present in composition (A) preferably in a total content of at least 15% by weight, more preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, most preferably ranging from 30% to 50% by weight, and better still ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0058] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more silicates chosen from the compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate (CAS: [1344-09-8]) and / or Sodium Metasilicate (CAS: [6834-92-0]), in a total content of at least 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, more preferably ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 30% to 50% by weight, most preferably ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Compounds E

[0059] The composition (A) according to the invention further comprises one or more compounds E chosen from the polycarboxylic acids of the following formula (I), their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) Formula (I) in which: ■ Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2 -COOH; and ■ Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and ■ R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic group containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0060] The compound(s) E are present in the composition (A) in a total content of at least 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0061] More precisely, the carboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to: - compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; - compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, when RI represents the group -CH(CH3)-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ri represents a group -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and - compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents the group -CH2CH2OH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0062] Preferably, Ri represents the group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0063] The polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) may be in the form of pure enantiomers, preferably of L configuration, or in the form of mixtures, in particular racemic mixtures.

[0064] The salts of the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are preferably chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Examples of alkali metal salts that may be mentioned include sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+) salts, while examples of alkaline earth metal salts that may be mentioned include calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mgn) salts.

[0066] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "transition metal" means a metal comprising an incomplete sub-layer; more particularly in oxidation state II, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+).

[0067] As regards organic amine salts, mention may be made of primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts, or of alkanolamine. Said amines have one or more radicals, identical or not, of alkyl type, linear or branched in C1 to C20, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen.

[0068] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts.

[0069] Preferably, the compound(s) E used in the context of the present invention are chosen from methyl-glycine diacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N',N'-triacetic ethylenediamine acid, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0070] More preferably, the compound(s) E are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0071] Even more preferably, the compound(s) E are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its alkali metal salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-glutamate, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, more preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid and / or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate).

[0072] Preferably, the compound with the name Tetrasodium Glutamate diacetate (INCI name) will be used, such as Dissolvine GL-38 or GL-47-S marketed by the company Nouryon.

[0073] The compound(s) E are present in the composition (A) preferably in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0074] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds E chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid and / or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Polysaccharides

[0075] The composition (A) according to the invention further comprises one or more polysaccharides.

[0076] In the present invention, the term "polysaccharide" means a polymer consisting of sugar units. The term "sugar unit" means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which contains at least 4 carbon atoms. The sugar units can be optionally modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0077] The sugar units which may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0078] The following polymers, alone or as a mixture, may in particular be mentioned as polysaccharides: (a) exudates from trees or shrubs including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae including: - agar (polymer made from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); (c) gums from seeds or tubers of which: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); (d) microbial gums including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); (e) polymers extracted from plants including: - celluloses (glucose polymers); - starches (glucose polymers) and - inulin.

[0079] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, mention may be made in particular of a heat treatment. As chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers which may be, in particular, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0080] In particular, guar gums, carob gums, starches and celluloses can be modified / treated.

[0081] The guar gums that can be used according to the invention can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups. The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0082] Such guar gums, optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0083] The starches that can be used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, oat, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, tapioca starches. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potatoes.

[0084] Preferably, starch phosphates will be used, in particular distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product proposed under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

[0085] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups can be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups can be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups can be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0086] The polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention can be cellulose polymers.

[0087] According to the invention, the term "cellulose polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0088] Cellulosic polymers are also called celluloses.

[0089] Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in a microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0090] Among these cellulose polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0091] Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates or phosphates of cellulose, etc.), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates of cellulose) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyratesulfates and acetatepropionatesulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, there are hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0092] Among the cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by ASHLAND) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0093] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

[0094] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium salt, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium salt, dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0095] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from celluloses, guar gums, gellan gums, starches, and mixtures thereof, preferably from celluloses, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] More preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, cellulose ether esters, and mixtures thereof, preferably from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Even more preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from gellan gums, (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably from gellan gums, hydroxyethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0099] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more polysaccharides chosen from gellan gums, cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0100] More preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more polysaccharides chosen from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A). D Compounds

[0101] The composition (A) according to the invention may further comprise one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, their salts, and their mixtures.

[0102] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention further comprises one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, their salts, and their mixtures.

[0103] By "fatty acid" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.

[0104] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition (A) according to the invention comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0105] Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular saturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0106] More preferably, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds of structure RC(O)OH in which R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 5 to 39 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, more preferably from 9 to 29 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, most preferably from 13 to 21 carbon atoms.

[0107] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in composition (A) are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0108] The fatty acid salts are preferably chosen from addition salts with an organic or mineral base, more preferably chosen from addition salts with a mineral base. The mineral base is preferably chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] The fatty acids may be chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids.

[0110] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0111] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] More preferably, the solid fatty acid is stearic acid.

[0114] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0115] The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention may be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.

[0116] Preferably, the compound(s) D are chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, preferably from solid fatty acids, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, more preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, even more preferably from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, most preferably from stearic acid, its salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, and better among stearic acid, sodium stearate, magnesium stearate,and mixtures thereof, and even better among sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] When they are present in the composition (A), the compound(s) D are preferably present in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0118] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0119] More preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, preferably in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0120] Even more preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from stearic acid, sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0121] And better, the composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and their mixtures, preferably in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Fatty substances different from D compounds

[0122] Composition (A) according to the invention may further comprise one or more fatty substances different from compounds D.

[0123] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty substances different from the compounds D.

[0124] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane.

[0125] Advantageously, the fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0126] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.

[0127] The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term "silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.

[0128] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa). Solid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0129] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0130] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) present in composition (A) are chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] More preferably, the fatty substance(s) present in composition (A) are chosen from liquid fatty substances.

[0132] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, liquid fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms such as paraffin or vaseline oils, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers such as dicaprylic ether, and mixtures thereof,more preferably among liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate.

[0133] It is recalled that the alcohols, esters, acids, fatty ethers more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0134] As regards liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Cl6, the latter can be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and preferably are chosen from alkanes. For example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (INCI name ore oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0136] As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

[0137] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] As regards the fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PCI” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; no-nafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by 3M Company.

[0139] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0140] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned are octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linolenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than triglycerides, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0142] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0143] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0144] Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0145] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0146] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, dioctanoate propylene glycol; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisocyanate; polyethylene glycol distearates, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate and mixtures thereof.

[0147] Composition (A) may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0148] Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

[0149] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0150] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0151] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.

[0152] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0153] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0154] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and polyol will be used.

[0155] The liquid fatty ethers which can be used in composition (A) according to the present invention can be chosen from synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms. As an example of liquid fatty ethers which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of dicaprylic ether.

[0156] The solid fatty bodies according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

[0157] The solid fatty body(ies) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and their mixtures.

[0158] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0159] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0160] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); ara-chidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0161] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0162] The solid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0163] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0164] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.

[0165] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0166] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0167] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0168] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0169] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0170] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0171] Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0172] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0173] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0174] As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0175] It is also possible to use microwaxes in composition (A);we can cite in particular camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.;

[0176] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable to be used in composition (A), are known; we can cite in particular ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

[0178] The ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0179] - RI denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from acids C14-C30 fatty acid, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0180] - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a group (galactosyl)m or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0181] - R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in position alpha, this group being able to be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

[0182] The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.

[0183] Preferably, ceramides are used for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a ga-lactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0184] It is also possible to use compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0185] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide cetyl acid and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

[0186] The solid fatty bodies are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0187] When they are present in the composition (A), the fatty substance(s) other than the compounds D are preferably present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0188] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances other than the compounds D chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0189] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances other than the compounds D chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms such as paraffin or vaseline oils, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers such as dicaprylic ether, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Surfactants

[0190] The composition (A) according to the present invention may further comprise one or more surfactants different from the compounds D.

[0191] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention further comprises one or more surfactants different from the compounds D.

[0192] These may preferably be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0193] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO.

[0194] As examples of anionic surfactants which can be used in composition (A) according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl- sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-ga-lactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl acids amidoether-carboxylics; and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.

[0195] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

[0196] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0197] As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.

[0198] Preferably, salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0199] The anionic surfactants possibly present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

[0200] As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.

[0201] In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO) marketed, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

[0202] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, the following are preferably used: sulfated sioactives such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acyl glutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferably alkyl sulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.

[0203] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in composition (A) according to the invention are preferably non-silicone and may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0204] Mention may be made in particular of alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0205] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following respective structures (III) and (IV):

[0206] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (III) formula (III), in which: - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0207] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) formula (IV), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 -COOZ', or 'n hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra' represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0208] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium ca-prylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodi-propionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodi-propionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0209] As an example, we can cite the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0210] Compounds of formula (V) can also be used: Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (V) formula (V), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra” represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra”-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of one another, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0211] Among the compounds of formula (V) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0212] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0213] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, advantageously used are alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0214] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.

[0215] The non-ionic surfactant(s) which can be used in composition (A) of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0216] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, the following compounds may be mentioned, alone or in a mixture: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, - esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - derivatives of A-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine; - amine oxides.

[0217] They are chosen, in particular, from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.

[0218] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, oxyethyleneated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0219] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan can be chosen from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquii-sostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

[0220] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably chosen from ester(s) of C8-C30 fatty acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0221] Preferably, the ester(s) of C8-C30 fatty acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from esters of C12-C18 fatty acids and of oxyethylenated sorbitan, in particular from esters of lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan.

[0222] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), oxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), oxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65), oxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-85).

[0223] The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids and glycerol, esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and oxyethylenated sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of C8-C fatty acids 30 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0224] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids and glycerol.

[0225] The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in composition (A) according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0226] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

[0227] As quaternary ammonium salts, we can notably cite, for example:

[0228] - those corresponding to the following general formula (VI): in which the groups R8 to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, C1-C22 alkylamidoalkyl (C2-C6), C1-C22 alkylacetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups, X' is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, C1-C4 alkyl- or C1-C4 alkylaryl-sulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI), preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN. DYK.

[0229] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of following formula (VII): in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(CrC4 )sulfates, alkyl(CrC4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0230] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (VIII) next: in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0231] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as that, for example, those of formula (IX) following: (CBH^OK-—FU (IX) OP ■ C ' (O—Cf Htho(OH)y0 TM (CHU—O) s FU X FU in which: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the -C(O)R26 group, the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the -C(O)R28 group, the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1;r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29. ; The alkyl groups R22 can be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(Cl-C4) sulfate, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an organic acid anion such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ester-functional ammonium may be used. The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate. More particularly, in composition (A) according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, the methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R28, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from the C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples of compounds of formula (XIII) that may be mentioned are salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. Composition (A) according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of salts of diester. It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, available from KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131, can also be used. Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0232] Preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0233] More preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0234] Even more preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol such as glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0235] When the composition (A) comprises one or more surfactants, the total content of surfactants included in the composition (A) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, most preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0236] When the composition (A) comprises one or more non-ionic and / or anionic surfactants, the total content of non-ionic and / or anionic surfactants in the composition (A) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, most preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Additional alkalizing agents

[0237] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more additional alkalizing agents other than the (bi)carbonates and silicates as defined previously.

[0238] The additional alkalizing agent(s) may be mineral or organic. They may be chosen from i) ammonia, ii) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives iii) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, iv) mineral or organic hydroxides, v) amino acids, preferably basic ones such as arginine, lysine, omithine, citruline and histidine, and vi) compounds of the following formula (II): in which: - W is a divalent (Ci-C8)alkylene group, preferably propylene, optionally substituted in particular by a hydroxy group or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; - Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or CrC4 (poly)hydroxyalkyl radical; vii) and their mixtures.

[0239] The mineral or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from i) alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, ii) alkaline earth metal hydroxides, iii) transition metal hydroxides, such as hydroxides of metals from groups III, IV, V and VI, iv) lanthanide or actinide hydroxides.

[0240] When they are present in the composition (A), the additional alkalizing agent(s) preferably represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.005% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0241] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) according to the invention does not comprise an additional alkalizing agent chosen from ammonia and / or alkanolamines. Persulfates

[0242] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises a total persulfate content of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0243] More preferably, composition (A) is free of persulfates. Direct dyes

[0244] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more direct dyes. The direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.

[0245] Synthetic direct dyes are for example chosen from those conventionally used in direct coloring, and among which we can cite all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, xanthenic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanic direct dyes and their mixtures.

[0246] Among the direct nitrobenzene dyes, we can cite: l,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, l-amino-2 nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; l-amino-2 nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; l,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Methoxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-[3,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; lP-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-([3-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

[0247] Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0248] Among the direct hydrazono dyes, we can cite: Basic Yellow 87.

[0249] Among the aryl nitrated direct dyes, we can cite: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N' -bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-phenylenediamine.

[0250] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50; tetrabromophenol blue.

[0251] Among the xanthene dyes, we can cite: Acid Red 92; Acid Red 52.

[0252] Among the quinone direct dyes, we can cite: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-([3,y-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0253] Among the direct azine dyes, we can cite: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0254] Among the direct indoamine dyes, we can cite: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

[0255] The natural direct dyes are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.

[0256] Among the orthodiphenols useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), Isoquercetin, Pomiferin, Esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, Man-giferin, Butein, Maritimetin, Sulfuretin, Robtein, Betanidin, Pericampylinone A., Theaflavin, Proanthocyanidin A2, Proanthocyanidin B2, Proanthocyanidin Cl, Procyanidins DP 4-8, Tannic acid, Purpurogallin, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them.

[0257] The direct dye(s) may be present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0258] Preferably, the composition (A) comprises a total content of coloring agents of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, more preferably less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0259] According to a more preferred embodiment, composition (A) is free of coloring agents.

[0260] By "coloring agent" is meant an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a pigment.

[0261] By "oxidation dye" is meant an oxidation dye precursor chosen from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are compounds with little or no color which, by a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species. Organic solvents

[0262] The composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.

[0263] As organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0264] When composition (A) comprises one or more organic solvents, the total content of the organic solvent(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0265] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention is anhydrous. By "composition anhydrous" means a composition which comprises less than 2% by weight of water, better still less than 1% by weight of water, even better still less than 0.75% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0266] In particular, composition (A) does not include water added during its preparation, any water possibly present being able to be provided by the raw materials used during its preparation. Carboxylic acids

[0267] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more carboxylic acids of the following formula (I) or one or more of their salts: q ~] oh >P ü ......< HO O - 4 n in which: - U represents a monovalent group when n is 0 or polyvalent when n is greater than or equal to 1, hydrocarbon comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or optionally substituted in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably U represents a monovalent (Ci-C6)alkyl or polyvalent (Ci-C6)alkylene group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and / or amino groups; - n represents an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive, preferably n is between 0 and 5, such as between 0 and 2.

[0268] The carboxylic acids of formula (I) useful according to the invention are preferably chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids.

[0269] The carboxylic acids of formula (I) are preferably chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, and their mixtures, more preferably from citric acid or one of its salts.

[0270] The salts of the carboxylic acids of formula (I) may be salts of organic or mineral bases or of alkalizing agents as defined above.

[0271] When they are present in composition (A), the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are present in composition (A) preferably in a total content by weight ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A). Amino acids

[0272] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more amino acids of formula (IJ and / or one or more of their salts: COOH H — C — N(H) P R (h) Formula (IJ in which: ■ p is an integer equal to 1 or 2; ■ when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; ■ when p = 2, R represents: - a hydrogen atom; or - a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, interrupted by at least one heteroatom or group chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2. Amino acids of formula (IJ) may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0273] As examples according to the present invention of amino acids of formula (IJ in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0274] Preferably, the amino acid(s) of formula (IJ) included in composition (A) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0275] More preferably, the amino acid(s) of formula (IJ) included in composition (A) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine and mixtures thereof.

[0276] Even more preferably, the amino acid included in composition (A) is glycine.

[0277] When they are present in the composition (A), the amino acid(s) of formula (IJ) are present in the composition (A) preferably in a total content by weight ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Additives

[0278] The composition (A) according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or several additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which we can cite sequestering agents different from compounds E, polymers different from polysaccharides, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sun filters, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidant agents, perfumes, preservatives.

[0279] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition (A) according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0280] The above additives may generally be present in an amount for each of them ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0281] According to one embodiment, the composition (A) which has just been described does not comprise hydrogen peroxide. This composition (A) is intended to be mixed, at the time of use, with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0282] Alternatively, the composition (A) according to the invention may comprise hydrogen peroxide. When it comprises hydrogen peroxide, the composition (A) is a ready-to-use composition (A').

[0283] The pH of the ready-to-use composition (A') ranges from 8 to 13, preferably from 9 to 12.

[0284] Process for lightening keratin fibers

[0285] The present invention also relates to a process for lightening keratin fibers comprising the application to the keratin fibers of the composition (A) as defined above.

[0286] Preferably, the composition applied to the keratin fibers is a composition (A') resulting from the mixing before use of the composition (A) according to the invention which does not comprise hydrogen peroxide with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0287] According to a preferred embodiment, the process for lightening keratin fibers according to the invention comprises:

[0288] i) a step of mixing the composition (A) as defined previously which does not comprise hydrogen peroxide, with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide, and

[0289] ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i).

[0290] The composition resulting from the mixture of step i) is called ready-to-use composition. employment (A').

[0291] This ready-to-use composition (A') may comprise one or more ingredients from among those described previously. This ready-to-use composition (A') may also comprise water, originating in particular from composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0292] The ready-to-use composition (A') can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

[0293] The mixing step i) is preferably carried out at the time of use, i.e. just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the keratin fibers.

[0294] Preferably, compositions (A) and (B) are mixed in a weight ratio A / B ranging from 0.1 to 2, preferably ranging from 0.3 to 1.5, more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 1.

[0295] Composition (B) comprises hydrogen peroxide preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0296] Composition (B) is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water.

[0297] It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0298] Composition (B) also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

[0299] Composition (B) preferably comprises one or more fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

[0300] Composition (B) may also comprise surfactants and thickening polymers.

[0301] Usually, the pH of composition (B), when it is aqueous, is less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferentially between 1.5 and 4.5.

[0302] According to a particular embodiment, the method according to the invention implements one or more direct dyes as defined above. According to this particular embodiment, the direct dye(s) may be included in composition (A) or in a separate composition (C). In the case where the direct dye(s) are included in composition (A), the composition applied to the keratin fibers is a composition (A') resulting from the mixing before use of composition (A) according to the invention which does not include hydrogen peroxide with composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.

[0303] In the case where the direct dye(s) are included in a separate composition (C), the composition applied to the keratin fibres is a composition (A') resulting from the mixing before use of the composition (A) according to the invention which does not include hydrogen peroxide with the composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide and with the composition (C). Kit

[0304] Another subject of the invention is a device with at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined above and at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide as defined above.

[0305] According to a particular embodiment, the device according to the invention uses one or more direct dyes as defined previously, the direct dye(s) being included in the composition (A) as defined previously or in a separate composition (C) which is contained in a third compartment.

[0306] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by appropriate application means, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.

[0307] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913. Use

[0308] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition (A) as defined previously for lightening keratin fibers. Examples

[0309] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0310] In the following examples, unless otherwise indicated, all quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0311] The following compositions A1 to A6 were prepared. In the following tables the ingredients are indicated in INCI name:

[0312] [Tables 1] INGREDIENTS Al (Invention) A2 (Invention) A3 (Invention) AMMONIUM BICARBONATE 50 50 50 SODIUM SILICATE 41 40 38.5 GLYCINE - - 0.5 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 1,4 - - GLYCERYL STEARATE - 1 1 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 2 - - GELLAN GUM 1,4 1,4 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 1 - - PROPYLENE GLYCOL DL CAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE - 3 3 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE (47.5% aqueous solution by weight marketed by Nouryon under the reference Dissolvine GL-47-S) 1 (0.475 MA) 1 (0.475 MA) 1 (0.475 MA) MAGNESIUM STEARATE 3.6 3.6 3.6 CITRIC ACID - - 1

[0313] MA: Active Matter

[0314] [T ableaux2] INGREDIENTS A4 (Comparative) A5 (Invention) A6 (Invention) SODIUM SILICATE 40 40 40 GLYCERYL STEARATE 1 1 1 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE (47.5% aqueous solution by weight marketed by Nouryon under the reference Dissolvine GL-47-S) 1 (0.475 MA) 1 (0.475 MA) 1 (0.475 MA) GELLAN GUM - 1,4 - HYDROXY ETHYL CELLULOSE - - 1,4 MAGNESIUM STEARATE 3,6 3,6 3,6 AMMONIUM BICARBONATE 49 49 49 PROPYLENE GLYCOL DL CAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE 3 3 3 INERT FILLER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0315] MA: Active Matter Application protocol

[0316] At the time of use, compositions A4 to A6 were respectively mixed with the 30 volume oxidant H2O2Blond Studio Oil-developer from L'Oréal Professionnel (Composition “O”) according to the weight ratio 1:2.

[0317] Compositions A5 and A6 according to the invention mix very quickly with the oxidizing composition O to obtain respectively the mixtures A5+O and A6+O in the form of a homogeneous cream.

[0318] Comparative composition A4 is a sandy powder, and the mixing time of composition A4 with oxidizing composition O is much longer, mixing is difficult.

[0319] Each of the mixtures was then applied to strands of natural brown hair (tone height 4) at a rate of 5 g of mixture / g of hair.

[0320] The A5+O and A6+O mixtures are easier to apply than the A4+O mixture. After 50 minutes of resting on a hot plate at 27°C, the strands are washed with Garnier Ultra Doux Camomille shampoo, rinsed, then dried in an oven at 60°C.

[0321] Colorimetric measurements were then carried out with a Minolta CM3600D spectrophotometer illuminating D65, angle 10°, specular component included, in the CIE Lab system. In the Lab system, L* represents lightness, a* represents the red / green axis and b* the yellow / blue axis. The higher the value of L*, the lighter the hair. Results

[0322] [Tables3] L* Witness (untreated wick) 21.08 A4+O (Comparative) 42.23 A5+O (Invention) 45.35 A6+O (Invention) 46.61

[0323] The mixtures A5+O and A6+O according to the invention lead to higher L* values, therefore to better lightening than the comparative mixture A4+O.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition (A) comprising: - one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates, and mixtures thereof; - one or more silicates; - one or more compounds E chosen from polycarboxylic acids of the following formula (I), their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) Formula (I) in which: ■ Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2) 2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and ■ Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom;and ■ R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, the compound(s) E being present in composition (A) in a total content of at least 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A); and - one or more polysaccharides.;

2. Composition (A) according to the preceding claim, in which the compound(s) C are chosen from bicarbonates, bicarbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from bicarbonates.

3. Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the bicarbonates are chosen from: - alkali metal bicarbonates; - alkaline earth metal bicarbonates; - compounds of formula N+R'R2R3R4, HCO3 in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; - aminoguanidine bicarbonate; - mixtures thereof; preferably among sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, lithium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, choline bicarbonate, triethylammonium bicarbonate, aminoguanidine bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably among sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, cesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably among sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof, most preferably the bicarbonate is ammonium bicarbonate.

4. Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, most preferably ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

5. Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium silicates, even more preferably from compounds having the INCI Sodium Silicate and / or Sodium Metasilicate.

6. Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicate(s) are present in composition (A) in a total content of at least 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, more preferably ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 30% to 50% by weight, most preferably ranging from 35% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).

7. Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims- preceding, in which the compound(s) E are chosen from methyl-glycine diacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N',N'-triacetic ethylenediamine acid, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixture, preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their salts ammonium, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, more preferably among N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid,its alkali metal salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, even more preferably among N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-glutamate, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, most preferably among N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid and / or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)- L-glutamate), and better still tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (INCI Name).,

8. Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) E are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

9. Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from the following polymers, alone or as a mixture, these polymers being able to be modified physically or chemically: a) exudates of trees or shrubs including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, of xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae including: - agar (polymer made from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); (c) gums from seeds or tubers of which: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose) - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); (d) microbial gums including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- scleroglucan gum (polymer of glucose); (e) polymers extracted from plants including: - celluloses (glucose polymers); - starches (glucose polymers) and - inulin; preferably among celluloses, guar gums, gellan gums, starches, and mixtures thereof, more preferably among celluloses, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably among gellan gums, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, cellulose ether esters, and mixtures thereof, most preferably among gellan gums, cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably among gellan gums, (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethyl- celluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharide(s) are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

11. Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (A) further comprises one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids, their salts, and their mixtures, the fatty acids preferably being chosen from compounds of structure RC(O)OH in which R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 5 to 39 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, more preferably from 9 to 29 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, most preferably from 13 to 21 carbon atoms.

12. Composition (A) according to the preceding claim, in which the compound(s) D are chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, preferably from solid fatty acids, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, more preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, even more preferably from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, most preferably from stearic acid, its salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof,and better among stearic acid, sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof, and even better,

13.

14.

15.

16. among sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof. Composition (A) according to claim 11 or 12, in which the compound(s) D are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (A) further comprises one or more fatty substances other than the compounds D chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, their salts such as addition salts with a mineral base, and their mixtures, the fatty substance(s) other than the compounds D being chosen preferably from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and their mixtures, more preferably from liquid fatty substances, even more preferably from liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid fatty ethers, and their mixtures,most preferably among liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms such as paraffin or vaseline oils, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers such as dicaprylic ether, and mixtures thereof, and better still among liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate., Composition (A) according to the preceding claim, in which the fatty substance(s) other than the compounds D are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (A) further comprises one or more surfactants other than the compounds D chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, their salts such as salts addition with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, the surfactant(s) other than compounds D being chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of glycerol such as glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

17. Composition (A) according to the preceding claim, in which the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are present in the composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

18. Composition (A) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (A) comprises a total persulfate content of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A), and even better still the composition (A) is free of persulfates.

19. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein composition (A) does not comprise hydrogen peroxide.

20. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein composition (A) comprises hydrogen peroxide.

21. A process for lightening keratin fibers comprising the application to the keratin fibers of the composition (A) as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

22. A process for lightening keratin fibers comprising: i) a step of mixing the composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19 with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide; and ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition from the mixture obtained in step i).

23. Device with at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibers, comprising: i) at least one first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19; and ii) at least one second compartment containing a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.

24. Use of a composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20, for lightening keratin fibers.