COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OLIGOMER OF A HYDROXYLATED FATTY ACID TRIGLYCERIDE AND A SATURATED DIACID, A FATTY AMINE AND A WEIGHT AMOUNT OF BRANCHED FATTY ESTER GREATER THAN 0.6%

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OLIGOMER OF A HYDROXYLATED FATTY ACID TRIGLYCERIDE AND A SATURATED DIACID, A FATTY AMINE AND A QUANTITY BY WEIGHT OF BRANCHED FATTY ESTER GREATER THAN 0.6% The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising an oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, a fatty amine and a quantity by weight of branched fatty ester greater than 0.6% relative to the total weight of the composition, with a fatty amine / branched fatty ester weight ratio greater than 1. The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the treatment of keratin fibers, and more particularly for the repair and smoothing of hair. The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying the composition according to the invention to said fibers.

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OLIGOMER OF A HYDROXYLATED FATTY ACID TRIGLYCERIDE AND A SATURATED DIACID, A FATTY AMINE AND A WEIGHT AMOUNT OF BRANCHED FATTY ESTER GREATER THAN 0.6% Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising an oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, a fatty amine and an amount by weight of branched fatty ester greater than 0.6% relative to the total weight of the composition, with a fatty amine / branched fatty ester weight ratio greater than 1. More particularly, the composition is a cosmetic composition, intended for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair, and more particularly still for the repair and smoothing of hair. The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying the composition according to the invention to said fibers. Background to the invention

[0002] Hair is a keratinous substance, which is repeatedly subjected to various stresses related to environmental factors (such as exposure to UV rays and pollution) and to treatments such as bleaching, coloring, perming or thermal straightening. Hair is also regularly exposed to mechanical stress, in particular during hair care routines (for example due to frequent brushing, or detangling and styling operations).

[0003] Thus, the structure of the hair tends to be altered. More precisely, the cuticles are lifted and the hair fibers become porous, while split ends appear at the tips. In general, the fibers bend and position themselves in a disorganized manner relative to each other. The consequences on the texture of the hair are noticeable because it becomes difficult to comb in both wet and dry conditions, has an increased susceptibility to electrostatic phenomena, is difficult to manage when styling and has a rough appearance, particularly at the tips. Overall, the hair, and especially its ends, is weakened, dehydrated and breaks more easily.

[0004] There is a need to provide compositions which make it possible to overcome all these drawbacks, and which are in particular capable of strengthening keratin fibers by repairing the cuticles and sealing split ends where applicable. In particular, there is a need to restore axial cohesion of the ends in order to realign the keratin fibers (discipline), and to give damaged hair a smoother feel and appearance, flexibility, to facilitate detangling and individualization (also called hairline), and this in a lasting manner.

[0005] Furthermore, there is a need to provide a composition that is easily applied to damp hair with a texture capable of giving it good flexibility upon application (also called hair transformation) and good coating quality. The composition must also be stable during storage in order to obtain this particular texture at the time of application, while being based on a majority of renewable and biodegradable ingredients.

[0006] These objectives can be achieved in whole or in part by the compositions according to the invention. Summary of the invention

[0007] In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition (C), in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising: i. at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated dibasic acid; ii. at least one fatty amine; and iii. at least one branched fatty ester, the total quantity of the branched fatty ester(s) being greater than 0.6% relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0008] it being understood that the weight ratio between the fatty amine(s) and the branched fatty ester(s) is greater than 1.

[0009] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are free of silicones, cationic polymers and cationic surfactants other than fatty amines.

[0010] In a second aspect, the invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition (C) as defined above. More particularly, the method allows the repair of keratin fibers. Even more particularly, the method allows the repair and smoothing of hair and facilitates its detangling. Advantageously, it is observed that the cosmetic properties conferred by the compositions according to the invention, in particular detangling, are long-lasting in that they persist after shampooing.

[0011] In a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition (C) as defined above for the treatment of keratin fibers, and more particularly the repair and smoothing of hair. Detailed description of the invention

[0012] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.

[0013] In the following, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0014] The limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between”, “ranging from ... to ..." and “comprising ... to ...".

[0015] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted therefor; the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and may be substituted therefor, and implies that the limits are included.

[0016] By "keratin fibers" is meant fibers of human or animal origin such as hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably head hair.

[0017] The term "lasting", when used to characterize a cosmetic effect within the scope of the present invention, means that the effect persists after one or more shampoos.

[0018] By "transformation" or "transformation upon application" is meant the softening of the keratin fiber upon contact with a composition. More particularly, the composition (C) according to the invention is applied to damp hair. The transformation property is therefore evaluated on damp hair.

[0019] Oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated dibasic acid

[0020] The composition (C) according to the present invention comprises at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid. If two or more oligomers of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid are used, they may be the same or different.

[0021] The term "oligomer" herein refers to a polymer in which a relatively small number of monomers are linked. It is preferable that the number of monomers in the oligomer is 100 or less, more preferably 50 or less, and even more preferably 20 or less.

[0022] The oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid can be obtained by the reaction of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride (such as hydrogenated castor oil with the INCI name "hydrogenated castor oil") and a saturated diacid. The reaction can be an esterification.

[0023] According to the present invention, the diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain of which it is composed does not contain an unsaturated group, i.e. a double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond. The term "diacid" here designates a hydrocarbon compound comprising two carboxyl functions -COOH. The composition according to the invention may comprise a single diacid or a mixture of several different diacids.

[0024] Similarly, within the meaning of the present invention, the oligomer may be a mixture of several different oligomers.

[0025] Among the saturated diacids which can be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid.

[0026] More particularly, the oligomer may be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following formulas (A) of triglyceride and (B) of diacid: | p R2 R2 | CHOH t^HOH ÇHOH | Ri m ri ! I ' I ' 9 9 9 CH,----------- Œ--CH * $ t A)

[0027] in which:

[0028] Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising for example from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2)r, where “1” can vary from 1 to 20, and preferably from 3 to 16, better still from 6 to 12,

[0029] R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising for example from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2)m-CH3, where "m" can vary from 0 to 11, and preferably from 2 to 11, better still from 3 to 9, and

[0030] Xi represents a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2 )x-, where "x" is an integer from 1 to 30, and preferably from 3 to 15.

[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, 1=10 and m=5, and the group

[0032]

[0033]

[0034]

[0035]

[0036]

[0037]

[0038]

[0039]

[0040]

[0041]

[0042] QH $ ——>1--C--R2 H in formula (A) above represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxy stearic acid (the major component of hydrogenated castor oil). When the diacid is sebacic acid, Xi represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)X-, where "x" is equal to 8. The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer can vary between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10. Thus, the oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid can be represented by the following formula (C): R2 R2 »2 0 0 <c> fl IIHH i —Ho—CH. CHÔH * ii I * hm C—0 C™ 0 0 0 0 -----011------ in which: each of Rb R2 and Xia the meaning explained above, and n means an average degree of polymerization between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10. It is preferable that the following group: in formula (C) above represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid, and that Xi represents -(CH2 )8 -. It is preferred that the oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxy fatty acid and a saturated dibasic acid is an oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, i.e., a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid. The compound with the INCI name “hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer” will preferably be used.

[0043] Such compounds are notably sold by the company CRODA under the trade names CROMADOL CWS-5, CROMADOL CWS-10, CRODABOND CSA.

[0044] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount equal to or less than 10% by weight, preferably equal to or less than 5% by weight, and more preferably equal to or less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty amines

[0047] Composition (C) according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine.

[0048] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0049] Preferably, the fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0050] The fatty amines that can be used in the context of the invention can be fatty amidoamines, tertiary fatty amines or a mixture of these compounds.

[0051] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or their salts.

[0052] The term "fatty amidoamine" means an amidoamine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition (which does not exclude the fact that they can quaternize in situ).

[0053] As fatty amidoamines, mention may be made of fatty amidoamines in which the C6-C30 fatty chain can be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0054] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0055] Among the amidoamines that can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (Dl): RCONHR”N(R')2 (Dl)

[0056] in which:

[0057] - R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 atoms of carbon, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH); preferably a linear or branched C5-C29, better still C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a C5-C29, better still C7-C23, alkenyl radical; preferentially a linear or branched, saturated radical or radical comprising double unsaturation (C=C) at C7-C23;

[0058] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably linear, having 1 with 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms; better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0059] - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; preferably a methyl or ethyl radical.

[0060] Preferably, in formula (Dl):

[0061] - R' are identical and represent a methyl group;

[0062] - R' ' represents a linear divalent hydrocarbon radical, having 2 to 4 atoms of carbon; better 3 carbon atoms and

[0063] - R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or comprising a unsaturation (C=C), in C7-C23.

[0064] The amidoamines of formula (Dl) can be chosen, alone or in a mixture, from the following compounds:

[0065] oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0066] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] As fatty amines, mention may also be made of tertiary fatty amines, and in particular tertiary fatty amines of formula (D2): RN(R')2 in which: - R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, preferably C8-C24 alkyl radical; preferably a linear or branched C6-C30, better still C8-C24 alkyl radical; or a linear or branched C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, alkenyl radical; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; preferably, a methyl radical.

[0068] The following compounds may be mentioned as fatty amines corresponding to formula (D2): dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltallowamine, dimethylsoyamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Preferably, the fatty amines according to the invention are fatty amidoamines.

[0070] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamines corresponding to the formula (Dl) as defined above, and more particularly chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof. More particularly still, the composition according to the invention comprises stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0071] Preferably, the total amount of fatty amines, preferably fatty amidoamines of formula (Dl) as defined above, ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] More particularly, the fatty amidoamine(s) chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Even more preferably, when the composition according to the invention contains stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, it is present in an amount total ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.25 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Branched fatty esters

[0074] The composition (C) according to the present invention comprises a total amount by weight of branched fatty ester(s) greater than 0.6% relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "branched fatty ester" means an ester of fatty carboxylic acid and / or fatty alcohol, at least one of the acid or alcohol being branched. These esters may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), preferably liquid. They are different from the compounds previously described.

[0075] Among the liquid branched esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbon atoms of the branched esters being greater than or equal to 8, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0076] Preferably, the branched fatty esters according to the invention are esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which they are derived being branched.

[0077] Among the branched monoesters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isocetyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; isocetyl isostearate; myristyl isostearate; octyl isostearate, hexyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate; isoamyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isobutyl stearate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, branched alkyl palmitates such as isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate and isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate;branched alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, tert-butyl and 2-octyldodecyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.;

[0078] Preferably, the branched fatty esters according to the invention are monoesters of fatty carboxylic acid and / or fatty alcohol, such that the alcohol is branched and contains at least 4 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, the branched monoesters according to the invention are chosen from isoamyl laurate, isoamyl caprylate / caprate, isoamyl stearate, and mixtures thereof. Isoamyl laurate is very particularly preferred.

[0079] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use branched esters of C4 to C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols, and the esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra-, or pentahydroxy alcohols C2 to C26.

[0080] Preferably, a liquid branched ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0081] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty ester(s) branched in a total amount ranging from 0.65 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.7 to 8% by weight, even better still 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty carboxylic acid and / or fatty alcohol ester, such that the alcohol is branched and contains at least 4 carbon atoms in a total amount ranging from 0.65 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.7 to 8% by weight, even better still 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] Even more preferably, the ester(s) according to the invention are chosen from isoamyl laurate, isoamyl caprylate / caprate, isoamyl stearate, and mixtures thereof. Isoamyl laurate is very particularly preferred, in a total amount ranging from 0.65 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.7 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] More particularly still; the composition according to the invention comprises isoamyl laurate in a total amount ranging from 0.65 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.7 to 8% by weight, even better still 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Linear fatty esters

[0085] The composition (C) according to the present invention may optionally comprise one or more linear fatty esters, i.e. one or more esters of fatty carboxylic acid(s) and / or fatty alcohol(s), in which the acid and the alcohol are linear.

[0086] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more linear fatty esters.

[0087] Preferably, these fatty esters are esters of linear saturated carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and of linear saturated monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0088] Preferably, the linear fatty ester(s) according to the invention are chosen from solid linear fatty esters (at 25°C, 1 atm).

[0089] Preferably, the solid linear fatty ester(s) are chosen from myristate, palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] More preferably still, the compositions according to the invention contain one or more linear fatty esters such as the compounds with the INCI name “cetyl esters”.

[0091] When it(they) is(are) present, the linear fatty ester(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Vegetable protein hydrolyzate

[0092] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more plant protein hydrolysates.

[0093] The term "protein hydrolysate" as used herein means the product of the hydrolysis of homogeneous or heterogeneous proteins, or their respective components, derivatives or combinations thereof, from sources of plant origin including, but not limited to, plants and their respective components, seeds.

[0094] Preferably, the protein(s) is(are) chosen from pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, corn protein, rice protein, sweet almond protein, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] More preferably, the vegetable protein hydrolyzate is a soy protein hydrolyzate or a rice protein hydrolyzate or a mixture of the two, even more preferably a soy protein hydrolyzate.

[0096] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydrolysates of vegetable protein(s).

[0097] Advantageously, the total quantity of the plant protein hydrolysate(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Fatty alcohols

[0098] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more fatty alcohols.

[0099] By "fatty alcohol" is meant an aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, comprising a single hydroxyl group, and preferably having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols according to the invention are therefore fatty monoalcohols.

[0100] Preferably, the composition (C) according to the invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols.

[0101] The fatty alcohols according to the invention can be chosen from solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols, and their mixtures.

[0102] By “solid” is meant a compound that is solid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa). Preferably, this compound has a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at 25°C for a shear rate of 1 s1.

[0103] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are insoluble in water, that is to say they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.

[0104] The solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0105] More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from saturated, linear alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0106] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from fatty alcohols having a melting temperature greater than 30°C, preferably greater than 35°C.

[0107] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably still cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol, and more preferably stearyl alcohol.

[0108] By “liquid” is meant a liquid compound at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa).

[0109] The liquid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0110] The liquid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyl-octanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2-decyl-l-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-cetanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] The total quantity of the solid or liquid fatty alcohol(s), when present, ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0112] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains one or more solid fatty alcohol(s), more preferably still chosen from cetyl alcohol, alcohol stearyl and their mixtures such as cetearyl alcohol, better still solid fatty alcohol is stearyl alcohol.

[0113] Advantageously, the total quantity of the solid fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0114] More particularly, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetearyl alcohol are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Polyols

[0115] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more polyols.

[0116] The polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from the polyols of the following formula (E): R!2 R\ (E) ---■ C------: [A] ------- C---- ; । LJ ts । OH OH

[0117] formula (E) in which:

[0118] - R'i, R'2, R'3 and R'4, identical or different, independently designate one of the other a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical, C1 to C6 or a mono or polyhydroxyalkyl radical, C1 to C6,

[0119] - A denotes an alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing 1 with 18 carbon atoms, this radical includes from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms, but no hydroxyl group, and

[0120] - m denotes 0 or 1.

[0121] The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from polyols of formula (E), in which m is 0, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), 1,2,3-propanetriol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl 2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol, glycerin, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0122] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from polyols of formula (E), in which m is 1 and R'b R'2, R'3, and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical, and mixtures thereof. They may advantageously be chosen from polyethylene glycols and their mixtures, and more particularly the product named PEG-6 or PEG-8 in the CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Seventh Edition) work.

[0123] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from polyols of formula (E), in which m is 1 and R'b R'2, R'3, and R'4, identical or different, denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical, and whose molecular weight is less than 200, and mixtures thereof. According to this particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are preferably chosen from 3-methyl-1,3,5-pentanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol) and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from hexylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Preferably, the molecular weight (MW) of said polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention is between 50 and 350, more preferably between 60 and 200, and better still between 70 and 150.

[0125] Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from diols, glycerin, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from compounds of formula (E) in which R' i, R'2, R'3 and R'4, identical or different, independently denote a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical, glycerin and mixtures thereof.

[0126] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 2,3-butanediol, polyethylene glycols, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is glycerin, propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, the polyol is glycerin.

[0127] The total content of the polyol(s), when present, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, and better still from 12 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polymers

[0128] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are free of cationic polymers.

[0129] The term “cationic polymer” means any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups ionizable into anionic groups. Silicones

[0130] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are free of silicones.

[0131] The term "silicones" means amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof. Non-amino silicones may be solid or liquid, volatile or non-volatile. Non-amino silicones may also be soluble or insoluble and may be in the form of oil, wax, resin, or gum. Silicones are notably described in detail in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. Cationic surfactants

[0132] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are free of cationic surfactants other than fatty amines. Other ingredients

[0133] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be anhydrous.

[0134] The term "anhydrous" means that the composition comprises at most 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at most 3% by weight of water, better still at most 2% by weight of water, even better still at most 1% by weight of water, and preferably is free of water (0%).

[0135] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition may be an aqueous composition. When it comprises water, the composition according to the invention may have a water content ranging from 50 to 98% by weight, preferably ranging from 60 to 95% by weight, better still ranging from 70 to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous.

[0137] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional compounds, different from the compounds previously described, chosen from thickeners or viscosity regulators, natural or synthetic; UV filters, fillers such as nacres, titanium dioxide, resins and clays, perfumes, peptizers, vitamins, acidic agents, alkaline agents, coloring materials, pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, film-forming polymers, fixing polymers, solid fatty substances, antioxidant agents, and preservatives.

[0138] A person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds and their quantity so that they do not harm the properties of the composition of the present invention.

[0139] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, comprises: i. at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, preferably hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, more particularly the compound with the INCI name "hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer", preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; ii. at least one fatty amine, preferably a fatty amidoamine, more preferably stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and iii. a total quantity by weight of branched fatty ester(s) greater than 0.6%, preferably of isoamyl laurate, preferably in a total quantity ranging from 0.65 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.7 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0141] it being understood that the fatty amine / branched fatty ester weight ratio is greater than 1, said composition preferably being free of cationic polymers, silicones and cationic surfactants other than fatty amines.

[0142] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, further comprises: i. at least one linear fatty ester, preferably solid, more preferably chosen from those with the INCI name “cetyl esters”, preferably in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or ii. at least one vegetable protein hydrolyzate, preferably a soy protein hydrolyzate, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention; and / or iii. at least one fatty alcohol, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, preferentially chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, better still stearyl alcohol, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or iv. at least one polyol, preferably glycerin, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, and better still from 12 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] When the composition is aqueous, the pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 2 to 12, preferably from 2.5 to 9, preferentially from 3 to 8, and better still from 3.5 to 7, even better still from 3.5 to 5.

[0144] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents or acidifying agents commonly used. Among the alkalizing agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of ammonia, alkanolamines, mineral or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as, for example, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

[0145] The hair care compositions according to the invention may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums and leave-in treatments.

[0146] The cosmetic composition may therefore be rinsed or not after having been applied to the keratin fibers, for example with water after a possible application time. Preferably, the composition is not rinsed.

[0147] The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above.

[0148] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet, having possibly previously been washed with a shampoo.

[0149] Preferably, the application of the composition according to the invention is not followed by rinsing.

[0150] The method according to the invention is in particular a hair treatment method, which makes it possible to repair and smooth the hair. The hair thus treated has improved cosmetic properties in terms of discipline, smoothness to the touch and visual smoothness, softening upon application, detangling, flexibility, individualization of the hair and coating, more particularly in terms of detangling.

[0151] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. EXAMPLES Example 1

[0152] The composition Al according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following table. The quantities indicated are expressed in % by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the formula.

[0153] [Tables 1] Composition Al according to the invention Cetyl esters (INCI name) 0.45 Stearamidopropyl dymethylamine 1.4 Isoamyl laurate 1.2 Stearyl alcohol 2.75 Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (INCI no.) 0.5 Vegetable protein hydrolysate 0.11 Tartaric acid 0.23 Sunflower seed oil 0.6 Preservatives QS Water QS 100

[0154] Composition Al was applied to damaged hair. It is observed that the treated hair generally has good cosmetic properties in terms of discipline, smoothness to the touch and visual smoothness, softening at the time of application, detangling, flexibility, individualization of the hair and coating. Example 2

[0155] Formulas B, C, D according to the invention and comparative formula A are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following tables. The quantities indicated are expressed as % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the formula.

[0156] [Tables2] Composition A Comparison B Invention C Invention D Invention Cetyl esters (INCI name) 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Stearamidopropyl dymethylamine 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 Isoamyl laurate 0.6 0.7 0.9 1.2 Stearyl alcohol 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75 Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (INCI no.) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Vegetable protein hydrolysate 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 Tartaric acid 0.23 0.23 0.23 0.23 Sunflower seed oil 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Preservatives QS QS QS QS Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100

[0157] Protocol for evaluating detangling in sensory analysis on wet and dry strands:

[0158] Trained experts observed the effects of the above compositions on wet hair immediately after application, and on dry hair. Compositions A, B, C and D were applied to highly sensitized strands of wet hair at a rate of 0.055g / g of hair. The strands of hair had been previously washed with a DOP Camomile shampoo (0.3g / g of hair), then rinsed.

[0159] The strands of wet hair are evaluated by an expert and scored on the detangling criteria. The strands are then dried with a hairdryer and re-evaluated on the detangling criterion by the same sensory expert. The evaluation gesture used for detangling is as follows: - The expert slides the comb through the hair from root to tip. The sooner the comb gets stuck, the harder it will be to untangle the strand.

[0160] Results:

[0161] [Tables3] Criteria A Comparative B Invention C Invention D Invention Wet hair Detangling 2 3 4 5 Dry hair Detangling 3.5 4 5 5

[0162] Rating: The disentangling criterion is rated from 0 to 5, with 5 being the highest rating, meaning the best disentangling performance, and 0 being the lowest rating.

[0163] Protocol for evaluating the persistence of detangling after 1 shampoo with sensory analysis on wet and dry strands:

[0164] The previously tested hair strands are washed again with a Camomile DOP shampoo (0.3g / g of hair). The wet hair strands are evaluated during sensory analysis by 1 expert and scored on the detangling criterion. The strands are then dried with a hair dryer and re-evaluated on the detangling criterion by the same sensory expert.

[0165] Results:

[0166] [Tables4] Criteria A Comparison B Invention C Invention D Invention Wet hair Detangling - Remanence 2 3 4 5 Dry hair Detangling - Remanence 3 4 5 5

[0167] Rating: The disentangling criterion is rated from 0 to 5, with 5 being the highest rating, meaning the best disentangling performance, and 0 being the lowest rating.

[0168] Conclusion:

[0169] Compositions B, C, D according to the invention lead to improved detangling performance compared to composition A. This difference remains visible after shampooing.< / c>

Claims

Claims

1. Composition (C) in particular cosmetic, in particular hair, comprising: i. at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated dibasic acid; ii. at least one fatty amine; and iii. at least one branched fatty ester, the total quantity of the branched fatty ester(s) being greater than 0.6% relative to the total weight of the composition, it being understood that the weight ratio between the fatty amine(s) and the branched fatty ester(s) is greater than 1.

2. Composition (C) according to claim 1 wherein the hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride is represented by the following formula (A): | R2 R2 R2 | ÇHOH CHOH CHOH | he laughed laughed Q c C o ç 9 CH. — CH ■—; CH ï. (HAS) in which: - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising for example from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2)i-, where “1” can vary from 1 to 20, and preferably from 3 to 16, better still from 6 to 12, - R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising for example from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2)m-CH3, where “m” can vary from 0 to 11, and preferably from 2 to 11, better still from 3 to 9, and the saturated diacid is represented by the following formula (B): in which: - Xi represents a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)X-, where “x” is an integer from 1 to 30, and preferably from 3 to 15.

3. Composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 2 in which the oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid is a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer, more particularly the compound with the INCI name “hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer”.

4. Composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 3 in which the total quantity of oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 4 in which the fatty amine is a fatty amidoamine, preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, more preferentially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

6. Composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 5 in which the total quantity of fatty amine(s) ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 6 in which the branched fatty ester is a monoester of fatty carboxylic acid and / or fatty alcohol, such that the alcohol is branched and contains at least 4 carbon atoms, preferentially chosen from isoamyl laurate, isoamyl caprylate / caprate and isoamyl stearate, and even more preferentially the branched fatty ester is isoamyl laurate.

8. Composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 7 in which the total quantity of branched fatty ester(s) ranges from 0.65 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.7 to 8% by weight, even better still 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 8 further comprising one or more linear fatty esters, preferably solid, preferentially chosen from myristate, palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, and stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from those with the INCI name “cetyl esters”.

10. Composition (C) according to claim 9 in which the total quantity of linear fatty ester(s) ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 10 further comprising at least one vegetable protein hydrolyzate, preferably derived from a protein chosen from pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, corn protein, rice protein, sweet almond protein, and mixtures thereof, more preferably a soy protein hydrolyzate or a rice protein hydrolyzate or a mixture of the two, better still a soy protein hydrolyzate.

12. Composition (C) according to claim 11 in which the total quantity of hydrolyzate(s) of vegetable protein(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 12 further comprising at least one fatty alcohol, preferably a solid fatty alcohol, and more preferably still chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures such as cetearyl alcohol, and more preferably still stearyl alcohol.

14. Composition (C) according to claim 13 in which the total quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 14 further comprising at least one polyol preferably chosen from

16.

17.

18.

19.

20. glycerin, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, more preferably glycerin. Composition (C) according to claim 15 in which the total quantity of polyol(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, and better still from 12 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 16 which is free from silicones, cationic polymers and cationic surfactants other than fatty amines. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 17. Method according to claim 18 in which the keratin fibers are previously washed with a shampoo. Use of composition (C) according to one of claims 1 to 17, for the treatment of keratin fibers, and more particularly for the repair and smoothing of hair.