Cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type, based on a lamellar phase structure

Abstract

L'OREAL "Cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type, based on a lamellar phase structure" The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least: (a) a saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol; (b) an anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain; (c) at least one wax chosen from hydrogenated vegetable oils and mixtures thereof, solid at room temperature and with a melting point above 25°C; and (d) a linear fatty acid monoester. It also relates to a cosmetic treatment process in which said composition is applied to a keratin material and the use of said composition in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin, or for hair care. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type, based on a lamellar phase structure Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, based on a structure of specific lamellar phases and providing interesting sensory properties appreciated by users when applied to a keratin material.

[0002] By “keratin material” is meant in particular the skin, the scalp, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, and the body hair, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, neck, eye contour, eyelids). Prior art

[0003] The type of galenic considered by the present invention, namely oil-in-water emulsion with lamellar phase, requires in particular the presence of at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain. This type of galenic has already been considered in patent applications WO2018108878 and WO2020002538 in particular for the purpose of developing compositions dedicated to masking skin imperfections, moisturizing the skin and / or treating the signs of skin aging, in particular the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, in particular increasing with age.

[0004] On the other hand, it is difficult to reconcile the satisfaction of the aforementioned objectives with requirements in terms of sensory properties, texture and stability.

[0005] Furthermore, it would be advantageous to improve the sensory aspect of these compositions and in particular to free them from a greasy feeling on application, without adding silicone materials.

[0006] The present invention aims precisely to meet these requirements. Statement of the invention

[0007] The present invention aims in particular to develop compositions with an oil-in-water architecture with a lamellar phase, having interesting sensory properties, and in particular a reduced feeling of greasyness during application, while retaining satisfactory stability, in particular stability evaluated after two storage periods at 45°C.

[0008] Finally, the invention also aims to propose a galenic formula with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or natural origin while reducing the use of petrochemical-based compounds, such as silicone compounds. Indeed, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e., products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that can address these environmental challenges. Summary of the invention

[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one saturated C16-C22, preferably C16-C18, fatty alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22, preferably C16-C18, hydrocarbon chain; (c) at least one wax chosen from hydrogenated vegetable oils and their mixtures, solid at room temperature and with a melting point above 25°C; and (d) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of formula (I):

[0010] [Chem.l] RrO-R2(I)

[0011] in which Ri and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of one another, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with Ri representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical.

[0012] As illustrated in the examples below, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that the use of a mixture of the crystalline ingredients (c) and (d), compounds with a high naturalness index, in a composition with a lamellar phase structure because it is composed of at least one fatty alcohol and anionic surfactant, makes it possible to significantly improve the sensory aspect of this composition without otherwise altering its stability.

[0013] The present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined above is applied to said keratin material.

[0014] The present invention also relates to a use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for the care of the hair.

[0015] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.

[0016] In what follows, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or several” and, unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain. Detailed description

[0017] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic. By "cosmetic" is meant a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0018] The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0019] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition. Saturated fatty alcohol(s) C16-C22 (a)

[0020] By “saturated fatty alcohol” is meant any alcohol comprising a saturated (without double or triple covalent bond) and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function.

[0021] For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrocarbon chain” means an organic group consisting mainly or even exclusively of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0022] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) present in the composition in accordance with the invention comprises between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.

[0023] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) present in the composition in accordance with the invention is solid at room temperature (20°C + / - 5°C) and advantageously has an -OH function at the end of the chain.

[0024] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) useful in the context of the present invention may in particular be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and their mixtures, and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures.

[0025] In a particularly preferred manner, a saturated fatty alcohol (a) chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures such as cetyl-stearyl alcohol (or cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol - "ceteraryl alcohol" in English) will be used.

[0026] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of C16 and C18 fatty alcohols (a).

[0027] More preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of at least two saturated fatty alcohols respectively C16 and C[8, preferably in a C16 fatty alcohol(s) / C[8 fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio varying from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20, and advantageously in a C16 fatty alcohol(s) / C[8 fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio equal to 50 / 50.

[0028] In particular, the composition comprises at least one mixture of cetyl (Ci6) and stearyl (Ci8) alcohols, also called cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0029] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 2.5% to 7% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] Anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain (b)

[0031] The anionic surfactant (b) useful in the context of the invention comprises at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18. This chain may be linear, saturated (without double or triple covalent bonds) or unsaturated (which may contain one or more double and / or triple covalent bonds).

[0032] Preferably, the anionic surfactant (b) useful in the context of the invention comprises a single linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain.

[0033] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from surfactants further comprising at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates and mixtures thereof.

[0034] In particular, the anionic surfactant (b) may be chosen from:

[0035] (i) surfactants of general formula (II):

[0036] [Chem.2] RCOY(CH2)nSO3M (II)

[0037] in which

[0038] -R represents a saturated, linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group;

[0039] -Y represents -O- or -NR3- with R3 representing a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group;

[0040] - M is chosen from the group formed by hydrogen, alkali metals, metals alkaline earth, the ammonium group and organic amines;

[0041] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3;

[0042] (ii) acyl glutamates whose acyl group comprises from 16 to 18 carbon atoms; and

[0043] (iii) their mixtures.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from alkyl(Ci6-C22)sulfonate salts, alkyl(Ci6-C22) )amidesulfonates, alkyl(Ci6-C22)arylsulfonate salts, alkyl(Ci6-C22)sulfoacetate salts, N-acyl(Ci6-C22)-N-alkyl(Ci-C6)taurate salts, acyl(Ci6-C22)isethionate salts, alkyl(Ci6-C22)sulfolaurate salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Preferably, the anionic surfactant (b) comprising at least one sulfonate function is chosen from:

[0046] - acylisethionates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0047] - N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear, branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or cyclic comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably the alkyl group is methyl; and

[0048] - their mixtures;

[0049] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0050] As N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, mention may be made of sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol; the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate (sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate) marketed under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company NIKKO.

[0051] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from acyl glutamates whose acyl group comprises from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0052] As examples of acyl glutamates, mention may in particular be made of palmitoyl glutamic, stearoyl glutamic, behenoyl glutamic, olivoyl glutamic acids, and the salts of these acids, in particular the alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, the alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or the ammonium salts of said acids.

[0053] Examples that may be mentioned are compounds bearing the INCI name sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and their mixtures.

[0054] As acyl glutamic acid salts, mention may also be made of sodium stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the name AMISOFT® HS 11 PF by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference AMISOFT® HS-21P by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0055] In particular, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate, sodium stearoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0056] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] In the compositions in accordance with the invention, the mass ratio of fatty alcohol(s) (a) / anionic surfactants (b) can vary from 10:1 to 6:4, preferably from 19:2 to 7:3, and even more preferably from 9:1 to 7:2.

[0058] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, it appears that the fatty alcohol(s) (a) and the anionic surfactant(s) (b) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain form with the hydrophilic phase an alpha-crystalline phase also called alpha-gel. This phase can in particular be characterized by DSC analysis and by X-ray diffraction at a temperature lower than the melting temperature of the alpha gel phase.

[0059] Thus, the composition in accordance with the invention is capable of forming crystalline lamellar phases.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention contain at least one swollen alpha-crystalline phase having a swelling period greater than 10 nm, and preferably greater than 12 nm, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 15 nm. The period is defined as being the sum of the thickness of a bilayer formed by the fatty alcohol(s) (a) and the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the thickness of the water layer between two lamellae, this pattern being repeated several times.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the difference between the number of carbon atoms in the hydrocarbon chain of the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty alcohol(s) (a) must not differ by more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably it is less than or equal to 4. Wax(s) (c)

[0062] The wax(es) useful in the present invention are chosen from hydrogenated vegetable oils and their mixtures, are solid at room temperature and have a melting temperature above 25°C.

[0063] For the purposes of the invention, these waxes are to be distinguished from the saturated fatty alcohols (a) described above.

[0064] By "hydrogenated vegetable oil" within the meaning of the present invention, we mean a lipophilic compound, resulting from the total or partial hydrogenation of a vegetable oil and which is solid at room temperature (20°C + / - 5°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change.

[0065] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3:1999.

[0066] The melting point of the wax, in other words of the hydrogenated vegetable oil considered according to the invention, can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter. (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments.

[0067] The measurement protocol is as follows: a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the wax is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0068] According to a particular embodiment, the wax (c) is chosen from:

[0069] - at least partially hydrogenated olive oils, in particular the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance;

[0070] - at least partially hydrogenated soybean oils;

[0071] - at least partially hydrogenated jojoba oils, in particular jojoba oil partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba, for example manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba™ 500;

[0072] - at least partially hydrogenated sunflower oils;

[0073] - at least partially hydrogenated castor oils;

[0074] - at least partially hydrogenated copra oils;

[0075] - at least partially hydrogenated palm oils;

[0076] - at least partially hydrogenated rapeseed oils;

[0077] - at least partially hydrogenated coconut oils;

[0078] - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oils esterified with alcohols Ci2 to C[8 chain fats, in particular sold by the company Sophim in the Phytowax® range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57);

[0079] - hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, in particular Thixinr® from Rheox;

[0080] - hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oils;

[0081] - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oils esterified with alcohol cetyl;

[0082] - wax esters of partially hydrogenated jojoba oils;

[0083] - hydrogenated glycerol esters, in particular the product marketed under the name CEGESOFT® HF 52 by the company Cognis (BASF), a mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils or the product marketed under the name Softisan® 100 Cremer by the company OLEO;

[0084] - hydrogenated coco-glycerides; and

[0085] - their mixtures.

[0086] According to a preferred embodiment, the wax (c) comprises at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C20, more preferably C16-C18.

[0087] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the wax (c) is chosen from hydrogenated glycerol esters and their mixtures.

[0088] Preferably, the wax (c) is chosen from mixtures of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils. For example, the wax (c) is a mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils, in particular marketed under the name CEGESOFT® HF 52 by the company BASF.

[0089] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the wax (c) is chosen from hydrogenated glycerol esters and their mixtures, more preferably is at least one mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils.

[0090] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of wax(es) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of hydrogenated glycerol esters, in particular of a mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils, relative to the total weight of the composition. Linear (d) fatty acid monoester(s)

[0092] A composition according to the invention comprises at least one linear fatty acid monoester (d) of formula (I):

[0093] [Chem.3] Ri-O-R2(I)

[0094] in which Ri and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of one another, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with Ri representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical.

[0095] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the acyl and alkyl radicals representing R1 and R2 respectively are chosen in such a way that the compound (I) is solid at a temperature less than or equal to 30°C.

[0096] In a preferred embodiment, the linear fatty acid monoester (d) has a melting point greater than 30°C, preferably greater than 50°C.

[0097] The melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).

[0098] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are, respectively, acyl and alkyl radicals having a number of carbon atoms varying from 20 to 30, preferably from 20 to 24.

[0099] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, R1 and R2 are, respectively, acyl and alkyl radicals having the same number of carbon atoms, and preferably are of the same chemical nature.

[0100] In particular, the fatty acid monoester (d) is chosen from arachidyl arachidate, behenyl behenate and mixtures thereof, and preferably is at least behenyl behenate.

[0101] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the linear fatty acid monoester is a behenyl behenate.

[0102] A behenyl behenate suitable for the composition according to the invention may in particular be Kester Wax K-72 marketed by the company Koster Keunen, DUB BB marketed by Stearinerie Dubois, Dermowax BB marketed by Alzo.

[0103] This (these) fatty acid monoester(s) (d) is (are) used during the preparation of a composition according to the invention, in an individualized form or in the form of a mixture comprising exclusively linear fatty acid monoesters (d) of formula (I).

[0104] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of fatty acid monoester(s) (d) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a mass ratio of wax(es) (c) / fatty acid monoester(s) (d) varying from 75:25 to 25:75, and preferably equal to 50:50.

[0106] As specified above, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and therefore comprise an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in which additional components can be formulated.

[0107] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone compounds.

[0108] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free from silicone compounds" means a composition according to the invention which comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of silicone compound(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is free from silicone compound(s).

[0109] By silicone compounds (also called silicones) is meant all silicone compounds capable of being used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, i.e. inorganic compounds consisting of at least one mixture of silicon and oxygen, including in particular silicone oils, silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenylated or amino silicones.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises:

[0111] - from 2% to 10% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol;

[0112] - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate, sodium stearoyl glutamate or mixtures thereof;

[0113] - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of wax(es) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils; and

[0114] - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of fatty acid monoester(s) (d) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least behenyl behenate. Oils)

[0115] A composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more oils. They may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0116] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C + / - 5°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In other words, an oil, for the purposes of the present invention, has a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C.

[0117] Thus, according to a particular variant, a composition according to the invention may contain at least one hydrocarbon oil.

[0118] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0119] According to a preferred variant, a composition according to the invention does not contain silicone oil.

[0120] The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular an Si-O group.

[0121] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one hydrocarbon oil (non-silicone) chosen from C8 to C30 alkane oils, ester oils, C12 to C26 liquid fatty alcohols, C19-C22 fatty acids and carbonated oils, in particular as detailed below, and in particular contains at least one C10 to C20 alkane oil, an ester oil and / or a C19-C22 liquid fatty alcohol.

[0122] As hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of:

[0123] - branched alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular C8-Ci6 such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neo-pentanoate, and mixtures thereof;

[0124] - linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular 10 with 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, more particularly from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company, and their mixtures; or a mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms (named Cl5-19 alkane), for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L15 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic;

[0125] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;

[0126] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, rice bran, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, Limanthes alba seeds (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil); or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel.We can also cite coco-caprylate / caprate, for example marketed under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois; .

[0127] - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether;

[0128] - synthetic esters, distinct from fatty acid monoesters (d) as defined above- above, such as oils of formula R3COOR4, in which R3 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R4 re has a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R3 + R4 is greater than or equal to 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name “Finsolv TN” or “Witconol TN” by the company Witco or “Tegosoft TN” by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name “X-Tend 226” by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or (Z)-Octadec-9-enyl (Z)-docos-13-enoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates,decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethyl-hexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and C1-C6 alcohols with the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example that marketed under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale as well as linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates; ,

[0129] - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as tetrahydroxystearate / tetrai- dipentaerythritol sostearate;

[0130] - the esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol(s) or free acid(s) function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, more particularly chosen from the esters of the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl di-merdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdi-linoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and mixtures thereof;

[0131] - fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name “Eldew SL205” from Ajinomoto;

[0132] - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain and even partially unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0133] - higher fatty acids C19-C22;

[0134] - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC” by the company Cognis; and

[0135] - their mixtures. Oily phase

[0136] The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase.

[0137] The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 35% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight, and even better still from 6% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 8% by weight of an oily phase formed from one or more non-silicone oil(s). In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 9% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] This quantity in oily phase takes into account the content of the hydrophobic ingredients required according to the invention as defined above.

[0140] In addition to these ingredients required according to the invention, the oily phase may comprise one or more bodies notably chosen from oils, additional waxes, pasty compounds and their mixtures. Aqueous phase

[0141] The aqueous phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least water mixed or not with one or more water-soluble solvents.

[0142] The amount of aqueous phase may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 65% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 95% relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 20% by weight, and preferably at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.

[0144] For the purposes of the invention, the term polyol means:

[0145] - a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least minus two hydroxyl functions; or

[0146] - a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, in which one or several carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, such as polyethylene glycols (PEG) having 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.

[0147] Preferably, the polyol(s) have a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.

[0148] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12, and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0149] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythrityl, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof.

[0150] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, in particular are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythrityl tetrahydrofuran, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably glycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0151] Preferably, a polyol suitable for the invention is chosen from glycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0152] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount greater than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in an amount greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight, and even better still from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic active ingredients and adjuvants

[0155] The compositions according to the present invention can of course contain one or more active ingredients and adjuvants chosen in particular from cosmetic active ingredients, filters sunscreens, colorants, pearlescent agents, pigments, perfumes, fillers, chelating agents, preservatives, pH adjusters, film-forming agents, etc. Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen in particular from:

[0157] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3 with the INCI name “NIACINAMIDE” or “NIACINAMIDE PC” for example marketed under the name NIACINAMIDE USP by the company WESTERN DRUGS or DSM NU-TRITIONAL PRODUCTS;

[0158] - known anti-aging active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, caffeine, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid, rhamnose, the compound with the INCI name “GRIFOLA FRONDOSA FRUITING BODY EXTRACT” for example marketed under the name ETERNISKIN™ LS 9881 by the company BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION;

[0159] - desquamating active ingredients, such as capryloyl salicylic acid (n- octanoyl-5-salicylic acid);

[0160] - active ingredients for firmness, such as hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

[0161] - sunscreens; and

[0162] - their mixtures.

[0163] A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.0001% to 40%, preferably from 0.01% to 30% and better still, from 0.01% to 20% by weight of active ingredient(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition

[0164] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0165] It can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum or a paste.

[0166] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are not solid.

[0167] In particular, the compositions according to the invention are not solid and not in stick form.

[0168] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are come in the form of a non-solid galenic, ranging from a serum texture to a creamy texture that can be stored in a jar.

[0169] Advantageously, the viscosity of a composition according to the invention ranges from 100 cP (centipoises), corresponding to 0.1 Pa.s (Pascal.second) (internal measurement mobile 2, 21UD - fluid milk type) to 20,040 cP, corresponding to 20.04 Pa.s (internal measurement = 85UD mobile 4 - thick cream type) measured at 25°C.

[0170] The viscosity of a composition according to the invention can be measured by any method known to the person skilled in the art, and in particular by applying a conventional method. For example, the measurement can be carried out at 25°C using a Contraves TV, a Rheomat RM180 or a Rheomat RM 100 PLUS, equipped for example with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm. The person skilled in the art can choose the spindle used to measure the viscosity, for example from spindles M1, M2 or M4, depending on his general knowledge, in order to be able to carry out the measurement.

[0171] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. This may be the skin of the face and / or the body, in particular the face and / or the neck and / or the hands.

[0172] The composition according to the invention may comprise all the constituents usually used in the application and topical administration envisaged.

[0173] In particular, the composition is a so-called non-rinse composition. In other words, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed after application. As such, it is therefore different from a cleansing and / or makeup-removing composition particularly intended to be diluted at the time of use and / or rinsed after use to be removed from the skin surface to which it has been applied. For example, a makeup-removing composition may be applied to a non-woven support dedicated to such use. Uses and methods

[0174] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection, and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

[0175] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratin material.

[0176] In particular, the method according to the invention is devoid of a washing step following, immediately or not, said step of applying said composition.

[0177] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0178] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by administering topically a composition according to the invention.

[0179] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of the cosmetic composition according to the usual application techniques. Generally, this application can be done directly with the finger or using a woven or non-woven support on which an adjusted quantity of said composition has been previously deposited.

[0180] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0181] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0182] In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are expressed in % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples MATERIALS AND METHODS Raw materials

[0183] In the examples below the compounds are identified by their INCI name:

[0184] “CETEARYL ALCOHOL” is marketed under the name ALCOHOL CETOESTEARILICO 50 / 50 by the company INDUSTRIA QUIMICA DEL CENTRO;

[0185] “GLYCERYL STEARATE” is marketed under the name TEGIN® M PELLETS MB by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0186] “SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE” is marketed under the name AMISOFT® HS 11 PF by the company AJINOMOTO;

[0187] “SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE” is marketed under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company NIKKO;

[0188] “OLEYL ERUCATE” is marketed under the name CETIOL® J 600 by the company BASF;

[0189] “HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL” is a product marketed under the name CEGESOFT® HF 52 by the company BASF;

[0190] “OCTYLDODECANOL” is marketed under the name EUTANOL® G by the company BASF;

[0191] “BEHENYL BEHENATE” is marketed under the name KESTER WAX K-72 by the company KOSTER KEUNEN;

[0192] “C15-19 ALKANE” is a product marketed under the name EMOGREEN™ L15 by the company SEPPIC;

[0193] “BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER” is marketed under the name OLVE'True™ Shea production by OLVEA;

[0194] “LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED OIL” is marketed under the name FANCOR® MEADOWFOAM SEED OIL by the company ELEMENTIS;

[0195] “AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER” is marketed under the name ARISTOFLEX® AVC by the company CLARIANT;

[0196] “POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6” is marketed under the name SEPIMAX ZEN™ by the company SEPPIC; and

[0197] “XANTHAN GUM” is marketed under the name RHODICARE® XC - (OUVRICARE XC) by the company PMC OUVRIE. Stability measurement protocol

[0198] The compositions are tested for their stability immediately after their preparation, after 24 hours at 25°C and after two hours of storage at 45°C.

[0199] The properties evaluated are:

[0200] - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter;

[0201] - the viscosity of the composition, measured using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM 100 PLUS from Lamy Rheology (equipped with a thermostatic bath), according to method CID-012-02, in particular for 10 min;

[0202] - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by ob Observation of the composition under an optical microscope in unpolarized light between slide and coverslip, at X10 magnification;

[0203] - the color and odor of the composition; and

[0204] - a phenomenon of macroscopic destabilization of the composition which can be ma materialize by the appearance of creaming, coalescence, sedimentation and / or flocculation, by the formation of a surface film and / or marbling...

[0205] The evaluation of the above-mentioned properties is always carried out at 25°C, regardless of whether or not the compositions to be tested have been exposed to prolonged storage conditions and / or at a temperature other than 25°C.

[0206] A composition is considered to remain stable when its properties after two months of storage at 45°C remain close to those characterized at 24 hours at 25°C.

[0207] In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without destabilization phenomena and without significant changes in pH, viscosity, color and odor, it is considered to be stable. Sensory evaluation protocol for fat

[0208] The technical effects relating to sensoriality at the time of application of the compositions, in particular with regard to the feeling of grease, were highlighted via the following protocol carried out by eleven evaluators:

[0209] - hand washing 15 minutes before the assessment;

[0210] - deposit, using a micropipette, of 50 pL of a composition on a half-back of hand ;

[0211] - spreading the composition with the index and middle fingers in a circular manner and uniformly on the half back of the hand until it penetrates;

[0212] - evaluation of the feeling of grease during application;

[0213] - carrying out this evaluation on a reference composition;

[0214] - comparison of each composition to the reference composition;

[0215] - placement by the evaluator of each composition on a scale of 0 to 6 according to indexing Table 1 and positioning the reference composition at “3”; and

[0216] - calculation of the average of the results obtained for each composition.

[0217] [Tableauxl] Sensoriality scale value 0, 1 or 2 Decrease in the sensation of fat compared to that of the reference composition 3 Sensation of fat identical to that of the reference composition 4, 5 or 6 Increase in the sensation of fat compared to that of the reference composition

[0218] Example 1 - Preparation of compositions according to the invention and comparative

[0219] Two compositions according to the invention (II and 12) and three compositions outside the invention (C1 to C3) were prepared according to the preparation protocol described below with the nature of the ingredients and their respective quantities given in Table 2. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Process for preparing the compositions

[0220] In a tank, the components of phase A at the bottom of the tank are heated to 70°C with stirring (blade speed: 60 rpm; turbine speed: 0 rpm). At 70°C, phase A is turbinated by starting the turbine (turbine speed: 3500 rpm) for 10 minutes.

[0221] The components of phases B1 and B2 are heated in an annex to 73°C with standard stirring. The resulting mixture is added to phase A with stirring (blade speed: 60 rpm and turbine speed: 8000 rpm). The resulting mixture is then stirred for 10 minutes. The components of phase C are added to this mixture and cooled to 40°C. The components of phase D are added at 40°C with stirring, and cooled to 30°C with stirring and under vacuum. The components of phases E, F and then G are added at 30°C with stirring and finally a phase final homogenization up to a temperature of 25°C, with stirring and under vacuum.

[0222] [Tables2] Phaw ingrédient (b&k INCt UE) ïi Ï2 Cl C2 C3 A ŒTEARYL ALCOHOL 4,5®: 4,50 4,50 4,50 A GLYCERYL STEARATE - 1,25 - - - A AQUA 17,00 39,53 39,53 39,53 A SODIUM STEÀROYL GLUTAMATE - - - - A CHÊLATANT 0,25 0,25 0,25 0,23 0 25 A. RHAWOSE 5,00 5,00: 5.60 5,80 5,80 À SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE - Or 0,50 0,50 A CONSERVATEURS 0J0 aso Ü,SO 0,80 0,S0 A GLYCOLS 180 3,00' 3,80 3,80 3,80 B1 OLEYLERUCATE 3,00 5,00 5,80 5,80 5,80 El Actif desqaaacsasit cm 0,15 8,13 0,15 0,15" B1 HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OU 1,00 L0& - 2,00 - si OCTYL-DODECANOL 1,50 t30: 1,30 1,50 1,50 El BEHENYL BEHENATE 1,00 LOS 2,00 - — El C15-19ALKANE 3.60 3,00 3,80 3,80 3.80 32 Ars&ssydact 0,50 0,50' 0,50 0,30 0,50 B2 BUTWOSPERMUM PARKSI BUTTER - - - - 2,60 B2 LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED OIL 100 LOO: 1,00 i 1,80 G AQUA 22,53 - - - G OiRIN 13,06 13 70 13,00 13,00 13,80 D SODIUM HYALURONATE 0,10 0,10 0,10 0,10 0.10 D AMMONIUM AOEYLGYLDIMETHYLTAURAT EtYP COPOLYMER 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 D POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-S 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.30 1.50 D XANTHAN GUM 0.10 o,w 0.10 0.10 0.10 E Active for the fesmetê 137 137' 85? 8.57 S.37 P AQUA 3.80 3.80 3.80 3.80 3.80 F GRIFOLA FRONDOSA FRUmNG BODY EXTRACT 1.30 1.30 1.50 1.50 1.30 G NIACINAXSDE 3.00 3.00 3.80 3.80 3.80 G Mother-of-pearl 180 w 2.80 2.80 2.80 .

[0223] The examination of the five compositions at 24h and 25°C is as follows (table 3):

[0224] [Tables3] II 12 Cl C2 C3 Appearance Smooth and shiny Smooth and shiny Smooth and shiny Smooth and shiny Smooth and shiny Color Pearly ecru Pearly ecru Pearly ecru Pearly ecru Pearly ecru Viscosity (Pa.s) 9.72 7.84 8.54 10.19 9.25 pH 5.5 5.6 5.6 5.6 5.5 Microscopic examination (X10) in unpolarized light Clean edges, fine and tight emulsion, homogeneous distribution of pearls Clean edges, thin and tight emulsion, homogeneous distribution of pearls Clean edges, fine and tight emulsion, homogeneous distribution of pearls Clean edges, thin and tight emulsion, homogeneous distribution of pearls Clean edges, thin and tight emulsion, homogeneous distribution of pearls

[0225] The five compositions therefore prove to be satisfactory at 24 hours and 25°C in terms of properties, particularly in terms of appearance, color, odor, viscosity, pH and microscopic characteristics.

[0226] Characterization of the sensoriality of the compositions

[0227] The greasy effect was further characterized at the time of application (Table 4) for compositions 12, C1, C2 and C3 by comparison with composition II according to the invention, following the evaluation protocol described above.

[0228] [Tables4] II (reference composition) 12 Cl C2 C3 Greasy effect upon application (average results) 3 2.92 3.36 3.91 3.64

[0229] It is found that the two compositions II and 12 according to the invention exhibit a greasy effect which is equivalent and much less than that exhibited by the comparative compositions C1, C2 and C3.

[0230] Example 2 - Characterization of the storage stability of the compositions according to the invention of Example 1

[0231] The stability of the compositions according to the invention II and 12 was re-evaluated after two months of storage at 45°C (table 5).

[0232] [Tables5] II 12 Appearance Smooth and matt Smooth and matt Color Pearly ecru, darker Pearly ecru, darker Viscosity (Pa.s) 9.72 8.30 pH 5.4 5.5 Microscopic examination (XI0) in unpolarized light Sharp edges, coarser emulsion, homogeneous distribution of pearls Sharp edges, coarser emulsion, homogeneous distribution of pearls

[0233] Compositions II and 12 according to the invention prove to be satisfactory in terms of properties after two months and 45°C, particularly in terms of appearance, color, odor, pH and microscopic characteristics. Compositions II and 12 according to the invention therefore remain stable under drastic conditions after two months and 45°C.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one saturated C16-C22, preferably C16-C18 fatty alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22, preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon chain; (c) at least one wax chosen from hydrogenated vegetable oils and mixtures thereof, solid at room temperature and with a melting point above 25°C; and (d) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of formula (I): Ri-O-R2(I) in which Ri and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with Ri representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said wax (c) is chosen from: - at least partially hydrogenated olive oils; - at least partially hydrogenated soybean oils; - at least partially hydrogenated jojoba oils; - at least partially hydrogenated sunflower oils; - at least partially hydrogenated castor oils; - at least partially hydrogenated copra oils; - at least partially hydrogenated palm oils; - at least partially hydrogenated rapeseed oils; - at least partially hydrogenated coconut oils; - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oils esterified with fatty alcohols with a C12 to C[8] chain; - derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil; - hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oils; - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oils esterified with cetyl alcohol;- partially hydrogenated jojoba oil wax esters; - hydrogenated glycerol esters; - hydrogenated coco-glycerides; and - mixtures thereof.;

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, in in which said wax (c) comprises at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C20, more preferably C16-C18.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said wax (c) is chosen from hydrogenated glycerol esters and their mixtures, more preferably is at least one mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of wax(es) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said linear fatty acid monoester (d) has a melting point greater than 30°C, preferably greater than 50°C.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which R1 and R2 are, respectively, an acyl radical and an alkyl radical, said radicals having a number of carbon atoms varying from 20 to 30, preferably from 20 to 24.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which R1 and R2 have the same number of carbon atoms, and in particular are of the same chemical nature.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said fatty acid monoester (d) is selected from arachidyl arachidate, behenyl behenate and mixtures thereof, and preferably is at least behenyl behenate.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of monoester(s) of fatty acid (d) relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said anionic surfactant (b) contains a single C16-C22, preferably C16-C18, hydrocarbon chain.

12. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said saturated fatty alcohol (a) is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

13. A composition according to any preceding claim, comprising a mixture of at least two saturated fatty alcohols respec- tively in C16 and C[8, preferably in a mass ratio of C16 fatty alcohol(s) / C[8 fatty alcohol(s) varying from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20, and advantageously in a mass ratio of C16 fatty alcohol(s) / C[8 fatty alcohol(s) equal to 50 / 50.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 2.5% to 7% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates and mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from: (i) surfactants of general formula (II): RCOY(CH2)nSO3M (II) in which - R represents a saturated, linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group; - Y represents -O- or -NR3- with R3 representing a linear or branched C1C3 alkyl group; - M is chosen from the group formed by hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, the ammonium group and organic amines; - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3; (ii) acyl glutamates whose acyl group comprises from 16 to 18 carbon atoms; and (iii) mixtures thereof.

17. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said anionic surfactant (b) is selected from sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate, sodium stearoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a fatty alcohol(s) (a) / surfactant(s) mass ratio anionic(s) (b) varying from 10:1 to 6:4, preferably from 19:2 to 7:3, and even more preferably from 9:1 to 7:

2.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising: - from 2% to 10% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol; - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate, sodium stearoyl glutamate or mixtures thereof; - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of wax(es) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils; and - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of fatty acid monoester(s) (d) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least behenyl behenate.

21. Process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims is applied to the keratin material.

22. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20, in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for the care of the hair.