Process for coloring keratin fibers comprising the application of at least one amino alkoxysilane, a polymer with acetoacetate functions and a coloring agent
The hair coloring process using amino alkoxysilanes, acetoacetate polymers, and coloring agents addresses the challenge of achieving long-lasting, homogeneous color on keratin fibers, providing resistance to shampoos and external aggressions.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023014565
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-20
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring methods struggle to achieve homogeneous, long-lasting color on keratin fibers, particularly in resisting shampoos, sebum, and external aggressions like brushing and perspiration.
A process involving the application of at least one amino alkoxysilane, a polymer with acetoacetate functions, and a coloring agent to keratin fibers, forming a resistant and homogeneous colored coating.
The process provides a durable, homogeneous color on keratin fibers that resists water, shampoos, sebum, and various external aggressions, ensuring long-lasting results.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Process for coloring keratin fibers comprising the application of at least one amino alkoxysilane, a polymer with acetoacetate functions and a coloring agent
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers and in particular to the coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair. It thus aims to propose new coloring processes comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a polymer with acetoacetate units, which have excellent technical performance, in particular in terms of the durability of the colors that they allow to be obtained.
[0002] More specifically, the subject of the present invention is a process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of at least one composition A comprising at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (!') and the application to the keratin fibers of at least one composition B, different from composition A, comprising at least one polymer P comprising repeating units derived from at least one monomer of formula (III). Said composition A and / or composition B comprise at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0003] In the field of coloring hair keratin fibers, it is known to color fibers using different techniques using direct dyes or pigments in order to obtain non-permanent colorings or dye precursors in order to obtain permanent colorings.
[0004] There are basically three types of hair coloring process:
[0005] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0006] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not involve the oxidative condensation process and is resistant to 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;
[0007] c) temporary coloring which results in a change in the natural color of the hair which lasts from one shampoo to the next and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a hair “makeup” process.
[0008] Another coloring method consists of using pigments. Indeed, the use of pigments on the surface of keratin fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorings on dark hair since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber. However, the colorings obtained by this coloring method have the disadvantage of having low resistance to shampoos as well as to external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing and / or friction.
[0009] Thus, so-called hair makeup products or "Hair Make-up" have recently been developed, which offer temporary hair coloring that lasts after 1 to 3 shampoos. They constitute an alternative, particularly attractive to consumers, to permanent coloring provided that the color effect maintains good resistance to contact with water and a few shampoos. This requirement can be met in particular through the use of effective film-forming agents.
[0010] Thus, document FR 2 741 530 proposes for this purpose, for the temporary coloring of keratin fibers, the use of a dispersion of film-forming polymer particles comprising at least one acid function and at least one pigment dispersed in the continuous phase of said dispersion. The colors obtained by this coloring method nevertheless have the disadvantage of being removed too quickly when shampooing.
[0011] It is also proposed in document FR 2 907 678 to produce colored coatings of the hair from a composition comprising a poly-siloxane / polyurea block copolymer and a pigment. However, with such a composition, the coatings obtained are not always very homogeneous and the individualization of the hair is not always satisfactory.
[0012] There therefore remains a real need to have coloring processes which make it possible to color keratin fibers, in particular hair, which have the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous coloring of the fibers, while forming a coating which is resistant to shampoos, sebum and various attacks which the hair may be subjected to such as brushing, perspiration and / or friction.
[0013] The present invention makes it possible to meet these needs.
[0014] The subject of the present invention is a process, preferably cosmetic, for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the following steps: a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres at least one composition A comprising at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (I') as described below, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, b) a step of applying at least one composition B to the keratin fibers, different from composition A, comprising at least one polymer P comprising repeating units derived from at least one monomer of formula (III) as defined below, c) and optionally a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition C, comprising at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (I') as described below, their oligomers and / or their mixtures; it being understood that: - composition A and / or composition B comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures.
[0015] The method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain homogeneous and smooth colored coatings. It provides visible coloring on all types of fibers, resistant to water and in particular to shampoos as well as to sebum. Such a coating can be resistant to the various external aggressions that keratin fibers can undergo such as for example blow-drying, brushing, friction and perspiration.
[0016] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
[0017] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it. - the expression "between... and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to..." and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included. - By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" within the meaning of the present invention, we mean a strictly higher, respectively strictly lower open interval, and therefore the limits are not included. - By “keratin fibers” according to the present application, we mean in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferably hair. - For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows or eyelashes. - an “alkyl” radical designates a linear or branched, saturated radical, containing for example from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; - an “aminoalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group; - a “hydroxyalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group; - an “alkylene” radical denotes a divalent C1-C10 saturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene; - a “cycloalkyl” or “alicycloalkyl” radical denotes a mono- or polycyclic, preferably monocyclic, saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl, or isobornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl. it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group, - an “aryl” radical is an unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 14 carbon atoms, more preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 cycle with 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthlyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (C1-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents a phenyl; - an “aryloxy” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl” as defined previously; - an “alkoxy” radical denotes an alkyl-oxy radical with “alkyl”, as defined previously.
[0018] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present application, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixture, are also understood to mean.
[0019] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within non-illustrated variants.
[0020] Composition A: The process according to the invention comprises at least the application a) to the keratin fibres of at least one composition A comprising at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (!), their oligomers and / or their mixtures.
[0021] Alkoxysilanes: According to the invention, composition A comprises at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (!') below, their oligomers and / or their mixtures.
[0022] The compounds of formula (I) or (!') are of the following formulas: in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; Rb and Rc; identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; Rd and Re, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1.
[0023] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (I), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane (APMDES), 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane and N-cyclohexylaminomethyl triethoxysilane.
[0024] APTES can for example be purchased from the company DOW CORNING under the name XIAMETER OFS-6011 SILANE or from the company MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS under the name SILSOFT A-1100 or from the company SHIN ETSU under the name KBE-903.
[0025] The compounds of formula (I) can also designate DYNASYLAN SIVO 210 or DYNASYLAN 1505 sold by the company EVONIK.
[0026] 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane can for example be purchased from the company Gelest under the name SIU9058.0.
[0027] N-cyclohexylaminomethyl triethoxysilane can for example be purchased from the company WACKER under the name GENIOSIL XL 926.
[0028] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (I'), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of N,N-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]ethylenediamine (CAS RN: 74956-86-8), Nl,Nl-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamine (CAS RN: 457065-96-2), 1,2-ethanediamine, Nl-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-Nl-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]- (CAS RN: 1638528-78-5), and their mixtures.
[0029] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, or an alkoxy group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably an ethoxy; - Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as an ethyl; - Rd and Re, identical, represent a hydrogen atom or Rd denotes a hydrogen atom and Re denotes a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical such as cyclohexyl; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; - r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0030] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) for which Ra represents an ethoxy group, Rb and Rc are identical and represent an ethyl, Rd and Re represent a hydrogen atom, A represents a propylene and r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane of formula (I) is 3-aminopropyltriethoxy silane (APTES).
[0032] Preferably, the amino alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) and / or of formula (I'), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are present in composition A in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.75% to 25% by weight, even better still from 1% to 20% by weight, always better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, are present in composition A in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.75% to 25% by weight, even better still from 1% to 20% by weight, always better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. Preferably, the total content of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane in composition A ranges from 0.1% to 60% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.75% to 25% by weight, even better still from 1% to 20% by weight, always better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0033] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition A comprises at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formulas (I) or (!') as described above, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and at least one non-amino alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (II) below, their oligomers and / or their mixtures: in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms carbon, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group; - Rc represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; it being understood that if Ra and Rc do not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb cannot represent a hydrogen atom; - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably ranging from 0 to 3; - Rf represents a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; or a group of the following formula (IIa): (IIa) in which Rn represents a hydroxy group (OH); an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl.
[0034] Among the non-amino alkoxysilanes of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of tetraethoxysilane (TEOS), methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), dimethyldiethoxysilane (DMDES), diethyldiethoxysilane, dipropyldiethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, isobutyltriethoxysilane, phenyltriethoxysilane, phenylmethyldiethoxysilane, diphenyldiethoxysilane, benzyltriethoxysilane, benzylmethyldiethoxysilane, dibenzyldiethoxysilane, acetoxymethyltriethoxysilane, octytriethoxysilane (OTES), and their mixtures.
[0035] TEOS can for example be purchased from the company EVONIK under the name Dynasylan® A or Dynasylan® A SQ.
[0036] MTES can for example be purchased from the company EVONIK under the name Dynasylan® MTES.
[0037] DMDES can for example be purchased from the company GELEST under the reference SID3404.0.
[0038] Preferably, the non-amino alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are such that: - Ra represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy; or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted by an aryl group, preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms optionally substituted by an aryl group; - Rb represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - Rc represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0; - Rf represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl.
[0039] More preferably, the non-amino alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are such that: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - Rb represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - Rc represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy - k denotes an integer equal to 0; - Rf represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl.
[0040] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-amino alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II) are methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), octytriethoxysilane (OTES), methyl-triethoxysilane (MTES), and mixtures thereof; more preferably methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) and / or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES).
[0041] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition A comprises at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (I) as described above, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and at least one non-amino alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures. In this embodiment, composition A preferably comprises at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (I) as described above, and at least one non-amino alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (II). In this embodiment, composition A more preferably comprises 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane as amino alkoxysilane, and at least one non-amino alkoxysilane chosen from methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, octytriethoxysilane, and mixtures thereof. In this embodiment, composition A more particularly comprises 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane as amino alkoxysilane, and methyltriethoxysilane as non-amino alkoxysilane.
[0042] Preferably, the non-amino alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), its oligomers and / or their mixtures are present in composition A in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 15%, more preferably still from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. Preferably, when composition A comprises methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), octytriethoxysilane (OTES) or mixtures thereof, the total content of methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), octytriethoxysilane (OTES) and / or mixtures thereof, in composition A ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 15%, more preferably still from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0043] More preferably, the amino alkoxysilane(s) in composition A (and / or composition C described below) are chosen from said compounds of formula (I), their oligomers, and their mixtures.
[0044] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “oligomer” means the compound(s) comprising at least 2 silicon atoms obtained by oligomerization or polymerization of the compounds of formula (I), (T) or (II).
[0045] Preferably, the total content of alkoxysilane(s) in composition A ranges from 0.1% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferably still from 2% to 40% by weight, better still from 3% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0046] Preferably, when the alkoxysilane(s) in composition A are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, octytriethoxysilane (OTES), and mixtures thereof, the total content of alkoxysilane(s) in composition A ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferably still from 2% to 40% by weight, better still from 3% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0047] Organic solvents: Preferably, composition A used in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0048] As organic solvent, examples that may be mentioned are C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0049] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0050] More preferably, composition A comprises ethanol.
[0051] Preferably, the total content of organic solvent(s) in composition A will from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0052] Preferably, composition A comprises water.
[0053] Preferably, the total water content in composition A ranges from 10% to 98% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferably still from 50% to 92% by weight, better still from 60% to 90% by weight, and even better still from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. Composition B:
[0054] Polymers P: The method according to the invention comprises at least the application b) to the keratin fibres of at least one composition B comprising at least one polymer P comprising repeating units derived from at least one monomer of the following formula (III): in which: - Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, - Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (CrC4)alkyl, linear or branched, - Rd represents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, and - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, or cycloalkylene;
[0055] In this formula (III): • Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, more preferably a methyl group, • Rb and Rc preferably represent a hydrogen atom, • Rd preferably represents a methyl group, and • L preferably represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, and more preferably L represents ethylene.
[0056] According to a preferred embodiment, the monomer of formula (III) is chosen from acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate, acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0057] The polymer(s) P may be chosen from homopolymers, i.e. polymers formed entirely from repeating units of a single monomer of formula (III), and copolymers obtained by copolymerization of at least two monomers, at least one of which is of formula (III).
[0058] According to a preferred embodiment, the polymer(s) P are chosen from so-called “CP” copolymers, obtained by the polymerization of: - 0% to 99% by weight, in particular from 50 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (1) chosen from 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, isobornyl acrylate, isobornyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof; - 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (2) of formula (III) as defined above; and - 0% to 99% by weight, in particular 0% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (3) chosen from C rC4 alkyl acrylates, C rC4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers, and mixtures thereof,
[0059] it being understood that said CP copolymers are obtained by polymerization of at least one monomer (2) with at least one monomer (1) and / or at least one monomer (3).
[0060] Said CP copolymer may be a random, alternating (block) or gradient copolymer.
[0061] Preferably, the CP copolymer is a random copolymer.
[0062] For the purposes of the present invention, by "statistical copolymer" is meant a copolymer formed from macromolecules in which the sequential distribution of the monomer units (2), (1) if present, and (3) if present, obeys statistical laws. known. In other words, in a random copolymer, the different monomers follow one another in any order. Random copolymers are also called random copolymers. For example, the sequence of a random copolymer, formed of monomers A and B, may be as follows: AABABBBBAABA.
[0063] The CP copolymer according to the present invention is in particular devoid of any monomeric unit different from the monomers (2), (1) and (3) defined above.
[0064] Monomer ( 1 ) As mentioned above, the CP copolymer according to the invention may comprise at least one monomer (1) chosen from 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, isobutyl acrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0065] According to a first variant of the invention, the copolymer CP according to the invention does not comprise monomer (1). In other words, the copolymer CP according to the invention is then made up of monomer(s) (2) and monomer(s) (3) as defined above.
[0066] According to a second variant of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 50% to 99% by weight, and preferably from 55% to 95% by weight, of at least one monomer (1) chosen from 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, isobutyl acrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0067] 2-Ethylhexyl acrylate, also called 2-ethylhexyl prop-2-enoate, is a compound with the empirical formula CnH2o02, and the semi-developed formula: O H^C — 'O' Y 0¾ L Examples of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate include that marketed under the name 2-Ethylhexyl acrylate by the Sigma-Aldrich Company.
[0068] 2-Ethylhexyl methacrylate, also called 2-ethylhexyl 2-methylprop-2-enoate, is a compound with the empirical formula Ci2H22O2, and the structural formula: Examples of 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate include that marketed under the name 2-Ethylhexyl methacrylate by the Sigma-Aldrich Company.
[0069] Isocarboxylic acid acrylate is a compound of chemical formula Ci3H20O2, and of formula semi-developed: Isobornyl acrylate can be cited in particular as that marketed under the name Isobornyl acrylate by the Sigma-Aldrich Company.
[0070] Isobornyl methacrylate is a compound with the empirical formula C14H22O2, and the structural formula: Isobornyl methacrylate can be cited in particular as that marketed under the name Isobornyl methacrylate by the Sigma-Aldrich Company.
[0071] Preferably, the monomer (1) is at least 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and / or isobornyl acrylate.
[0072] According to a third variant of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises at least one monomer (1) chosen from 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, isobornyl acrylate, isobornyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, in an amount of less than 50% relative to the total weight of the monomers, preferably between 0.01 and 49.9% relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0073] Monomer (2) According to the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 1% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (2) of formula (III): in which: • Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Ra represents a methyl group, • Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rb and Rc represent an atom of hydrogen, • Rd represents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Rd represents a methyl group, and • L represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, or cycloalkylene, preferably L represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, in particular ethylene.
[0074] In particular, the monomer (2) is chosen from acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate, acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof and preferably, the monomer (2) is acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate.
[0075] Acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C9H12O5, and of semi-developed formula: Examples of acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate include that marketed under the name Butanoic acid, 3-oxo-,2-[(l-oxo-2-propen-l-yl)oxy]ethyl ester by Alfa Chemistry.
[0076] Acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate is a compound of empirical formula C10H14O5, and of semi-developed formula: Acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate includes, in particular, that marketed under the name Eastman™ AAEM by the Eastman Company.
[0077] Monomer (3) According to the invention, the copolymer comprises from 0% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from Cr-C4 alkyl acrylates, Cr-C4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0078] Thus, according to a variant of the invention, the copolymer CP according to the invention does not comprise monomer (3). In other words, the copolymer CP according to the invention is then made up of monomer(s) (2) and monomer(s) (1) as defined above.
[0079] Among the Cr-C4 alkyl acrylates and Cr-C4 alkyl methacrylates which can be used as monomers (3), mention may be made in particular of methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, n-propyl acrylate, isopropyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate and mixtures thereof.
[0080] Preferably, the monomer (3) is a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, in particular chosen from butyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate.
[0081] Butyl acrylate is a compound with the empirical formula C7Hi3O2 and the semi-developed formula: A butyl acrylate that can be cited in particular is that marketed under the name Butyl acrylate by the Sigma Aldrich Company.
[0082] According to a preferred embodiment, the monomer (3) is at least one monomer chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and / or C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, preferably chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, and more preferably the monomer (3) is at least butyl acrylate.
[0083] Isobutyl acrylate is a compound with the empirical formula C7Hi2O2 and the semi-developed formula: O CH3 Isobutyl acrylate can be cited in particular as that marketed under the name isobutyl acrylate by the company Sigma Aldrich.
[0084] Tert-butyl acrylate is a compound with the empirical formula C7Hi2O2 and the semi-developed formula: Tert-butyl acrylate can be cited in particular as that marketed under the name tert-butyl acrylate by the company Sigma Aldrich.
[0085] According to another preferred embodiment, the monomer (3) is at least one silicone macromonomer.
[0086] By "silicone macromonomer" is meant a silicone macromolecule with a terminal group that allows it to act as a monomer. Silicone macromonomers will contribute a single monomer unit to a chain of the completed macromolecule.
[0087] Concerning silicone macromonomers, these may in particular be polydime- thylsiloxanes with a monoacryloyloxy or monomethacryloyloxy terminal group, and in particular those of formula (II): % (He) in which: - R8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably methyl; - R9 denotes a divalent, linear or branched, preferably linear, hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and optionally containing one or two ether bonds -O-; preferably ethylene, propylene or butylene; - Rio denotes a linear or branched alkyl group, having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; preferably methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or pentyl; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 300, preferably ranging from 3 to 200.
[0088] These may in particular be polydimethylsiloxane methacrylates and in particular those marketed under the name MCR-M17 by Gelest Inc. or x-22-2475 and x-22-2426 by Shin Etsu.
[0089] The silicone macromonomers which are particularly suitable for the invention have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 200 g.mol1 to 100,000 g.mol *, and more preferably from 400 g.mol1 to 20,000 g.mol '.
[0090] In particular, the monomer (3) is at least one silicone macromonomer, more particularly chosen from silicone macromonomers having a glass transition temperature Tg less than or equal to 25°C, more particularly between -100°C and 25°C, and preferably between -90°C and 0°C.
[0091] According to a preferred embodiment, the monomer (3) is at least one polydimethylsiloxane with a mono(meth)acryloyloxy terminal group.
[0092] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 0% to 45% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the monomers, preferably from 0% to 45% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the monomers, and at least one monomer (1) as defined above, more preferably 50% to 99% of at least one monomer (1) as defined above.
[0093] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 80% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, and preferably the CP copolymer comprises from 80% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates relative to the total weight of the monomers, and no monomer (1) as defined above.
[0094] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 80% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from silicone macromonomers, and their mixtures with Cr-C4 alkyl acrylates or with Cr-C4 alkyl methacrylates, relative to the total weight of the monomers, preferably 80% to 99% by weight of a mixture of at least one monomer (3) chosen from silicone macromonomers and at least one monomer (3) chosen from Cr-C4 alkyl acrylates and / or Cr-C4 alkyl methacrylates, relative to the total weight of the monomers, more preferably the copolymer CP comprises 80% to 99% by weight of a mixture of at least one monomer (3) chosen from silicone macromonomers and at least one monomer (3) chosen among CrC4 alkyl acrylates and / or CrC4 alkyl methacrylates, and no monomer (1) relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0095] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises more than 30% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from Cr-C4 alkyl acrylates, Cr-C4 alkyl methacrylates, and preferably CP comprises from 30.01% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from Cr-C4 alkyl acrylates, Cr-C4 alkyl methacrylates relative to the total weight of the monomers and at least one monomer (1) as defined above in a non-zero amount and less than 50% relative to the total weight of the monomers. According to this embodiment, the monomers (3) preferably denote C4 alkyl acrylates, C4 alkyl methacrylates or mixtures of C1-C3 alkyl acrylates and / or C1-C3 alkyl methacrylates with C4 alkyl acrylates or C4 alkyl methacrylates.
[0096] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises more than 30% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from silicone macromonomers and their mixtures with Cr-C4 alkyl acrylates or with Cr-C4 alkyl methacrylates, relative to the total weight of the monomers, and preferably CP comprises from 30.01% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from silicone macromonomers and their mixtures with Cr-C4 alkyl acrylates or with Ci-C4 alkyl methacrylates, relative to the total weight of the monomers and at least one monomer (1) as defined above in a non-zero amount and less than 50% relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0097] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises more than 45% and less than 49% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers, and mixtures thereof and preferably CP comprises from 45.01% to 48.99% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates relative to the total weight of the monomers, and at least one monomer (1) as defined above in an amount of 50 to 99% relative to the total weight of the monomers. According to this embodiment, the monomers (3) preferably denote C4 alkyl acrylates, C4 alkyl methacrylates or mixtures of C1-C3 alkyl acrylates and / or C1-C3 alkyl methacrylates with C4 alkyl acrylates or C4 alkyl methacrylates.
[0098] In particular, the CP copolymer according to the present invention is preferably obtained by the copolymerization: (1) isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate and acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, more preferably in a mass ratio of isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate of 25 / 65 / 10; or (2) isobornyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, more preferably in a mass ratio of isobornyl acrylate / 2-ethylhexyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate of 60 / 30 / 10.
[0099] Preferably, the composition B according to the invention comprises the polymer(s) P in a total content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition B.
[0100] More preferably, composition B according to the invention comprises the polymer(s) CP in a total content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably still from 2% to 20% by weight, and better still ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0101] According to a preferred embodiment, when the composition B according to the invention comprises the polymer(s) CP chosen from the copolymer of isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate and acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate and / or the copolymer of isobornyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, the total content of copolymer(s) CP is in the range from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition B.
[0102] Composition B is different from composition A previously described. Advantageously, composition B does not comprise the same ingredients as composition A.
[0103] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition B does not comprise alkoxysilane of formula (I), (!') or (II) as described previously.
[0104] Preferably, composition B is anhydrous.
[0105] By "anhydrous composition" is meant a composition comprising a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, this water content is less than 1% by weight, better still less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. More particularly, it does not comprise water (0%).
[0106] In particular, said anhydrous composition does not include water added during its preparation, any residual water possibly present being able to come from the raw materials used during the preparation.
[0107] Non-amino silicones: Preferably, composition B further comprises at least one non-amino silicone, i.e. at least one silicone other than amino silicones.
[0108] In a manner known per se, the term "silicone" denotes all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.
[0109] For the purposes of the invention, non-amino silicones are different from polymers P, as well as from non-amino alkoxysilanes and / or their oligomers described previously.
[0110] Amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine group and / or at least one quaternary ammonium group.
[0111] The non-amino silicones that may be used may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0112] The non-amino silicones that can be used can be soluble or insoluble in composition B according to the invention; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and silicone resins are preferred.
[0113] Silicones are notably described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.
[0114] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), more particularly from:
[0115] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Examples include products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA. - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type with chemical structure: CH3
[0116]
[0117]
[0118] We can cite the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE. - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl-pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.106 m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane. Other silicones in this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; we can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as organo-polysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated groups. The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, polydimethyl / linear and / or branched diphenylsiloxanes.
[0119] Among the organomodified silicones, we can cite organopolysiloxanes comprising: - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(C12)-methicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200; - thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE; - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; - hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl function; - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732. - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".
[0120] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products: - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - MIRASIL® series oils marketed by RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 200 series oils such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
[0121] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of series 48 from the company RHODIA.
[0122] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also cite the products com marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.
[0123] Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
[0124] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING.
[0125] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2m2 / s at 25°C.
[0126] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite the products marketed under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; - BAYER PK series silicones such as PK20; - BAYER PN and PH series silicones such as PN1000 and PH1000 products - certain oils from the GENERAL ELECTRIC SF series such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
[0127] Silicones may also be chosen from silicone resins. Generally, the term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. "Silicone resins" are also called "silicone resins" or "siloxane resins". Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
[0128] The silicone resin(s) according to the invention may be chosen from silicone resins having a molecular weight of between 300 and 100,000 g / mol, preferably between 300 and 50,000 g / mol, more preferably between 300 and 30,000 g / mol. The term "molecular weight" means average molecular weight (Mw).
[0129] The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.
[0130] The letter “M” represents the Monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
[0131] The letter "D" signifies a Difunctional unit RlR2SiO2 / 2 in which the atom of silicon is bonded to two oxygen atoms
[0132] The letter “T” represents a Trifunctional unit of formula RlSiO3 / 2.
[0133] Such resins are described for example in “Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or even US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484.
[0134] In the M, D, T units defined above, R, namely RI, R2 and R3, represents a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group.
[0135] Finally, the letter “Q” signifies a Tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is linked to four oxygen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.
[0136] Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the pendant chains.
[0137] As silicone resins which can be used in composition B according to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, silicone resins of type MQ, type T or type MQT.
[0138] MQ resins: As an example of MQ type silicone resins, mention may be made of alkylsiloxy-silicates of formula [(Rl)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the RI group represents a radical as defined previously, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.
[0139] As an example of solid silicone resins of the MQ type of the trimethylsiloxy-silicate type, we can cite those marketed under the reference SR1000®, E 1 170-002® or SS 4230® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803®, WACKER 803® and 804® by the company Wacker, under the name "KF-7312J®" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749®", "DC 593®" by the company Dow Corning, under the name Silsoft 74 by the company Momentive Performance Materials.
[0140] As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151® marketed by the company General Electric). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in patent US5817302.
[0141] Resins T: As an example of T-type silicone resins, mention may be made of polysilse-quioxanes of formula (RSiO3 / 2)x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes may further comprise Si-OH terminal groups.
[0142] Preferably, polymethylsilsesquioxane resins in which R represents a methyl group can be used, such as, for example, those marketed: - by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK® such as Belsil PMS MK®: polymer comprising repeating units CH3SiO3 / 2 (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3)2SiO2 / 2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000 g / mol, or - by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR 220L® which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO3 / 2 and have Si OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A® which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or under the reference KR 251® comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or - by the company GRANT INDUSTRIES under the name GRANRESIN PMSQ ID at 80% polymethylsilsesquioxane in isododecane.
[0143] MQT resins: As a resin comprising MQT units, those cited in document US 5,110,890 are known in particular.
[0144] A preferred form of MQT type resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005 / 075542.
[0145] The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units: (i) (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2)b (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d
[0146] With RI, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. a, b, c and d being mole fractions, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, b being between zero and 0.3, c being greater than zero, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, a + b + c + d = 1, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[0147] Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the units: (i) (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d With R1 and R3 independently representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R1 preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between 0.2 and 0.55, a + b + c + d = 1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[0148] The siloxane resins which can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of: A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of (Rl3SiOi / 2)a and (SiO4 / 2 )d units RI representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a and d being greater than zero, the a / d ratio being between 0.5 and 1.5; and B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of (R3SiO3 / 2)c units, R3 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, c being greater than zero, provided that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups, where the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.
[0149] Advantageously, the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85. Preferably, the ratio A / B is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have proven to allow comfortable deposits.
[0150] Preferably, composition B according to the invention comprises at least one non-amine silicone chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, polydimethylsiloxanes with groups dimethylsilanol terminals (dimethiconols); silicone resins, in particular MQ type resins and T type resins, in particular polymethylsilsesquioxane resins; and mixtures thereof.
[0151] Preferably, composition B according to the invention comprises the non-amino silicone(s) in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0152] Preferably, the total content of non-amine silicone(s) chosen from poly-dialkylsiloxanes; silicone resins, in particular MQ type resins and T type resins, in composition B ranges from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0153] Preferably, the total content of non-amino silicone(s) chosen from cyclic poly-dialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (dimethiconols), polymethylsilses-quioxane resins; and mixtures thereof, in composition B ranges from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0154] Hydrocarbon oils Preferably, composition B further comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil.
[0155] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (i.e. 1.013xl05 Pa).
[0156] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
[0157] In particular, composition B may comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from: - C8-Ci6 hydrocarbon oils, and in particular: branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes, preferably C8-C16, (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, linear C8-Ci6 alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (Ci4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures, - short-chain C3-C8 esters (having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total), such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate and butyl acetate; - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or even wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and musk rose oils;shea butter; or even caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, - linear or branched hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, in particular Parleam®, squalane, paraffin oils, and their mixtures, - synthetic esters such as oils of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the numbers of carbon atoms in Ri and R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoates of C[2 to C15] alcohols, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, palmitate 2-octyl-decyl, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate;hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters; - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol.
[0158] Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil present in composition B according to the present invention is apolar, it is formed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0159] Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is chosen from: - C8-Ci6 hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably among C8-Ci4 branched alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane; - short chain C3-C8 esters such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate and butyl acetate; - and their mixtures.
[0160] Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbon oil(s) in composition B ranges from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 75% by weight, more preferably still from 20% to 70% by weight, and better still from 35 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0161] Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbon oil(s) chosen from branched C8-CM alkanes, short-chain C3-C8 esters and mixtures thereof, in composition B, ranges from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 75% by weight, even more preferably from 20% to 70% by weight, and better still from 35 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0162] Alcohols: Preferably, composition B further comprises at least one alcohol chosen from monoalcohols and polyols; more preferably from C1-C6 monoalcohols and C2-C6 polyols.
[0163] These alcohols are different from the fatty alcohols previously described.
[0164] As monoalcohols, C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, can be used.
[0165] As polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, 1,3-propanediol, pentane-1,2-diol, caprylyl glycol (octane-1,2-diol), butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] Preferably, the alcohol(s) are chosen from ethanol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0167] More preferably, composition B further comprises at least one alcohol chosen from monoalcohols and polyols; more preferably still C1-C6 monoalcohols and C2-C6 polyols; and even better from ethanol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0168] Advantageously, composition D further comprises at least one alcohol chosen from monoalcohols and polyols; more preferably still monoalcohols C1-C6 and C2-C6 polyols; and even better among ethanol, caprylyl glycol, and their mixtures.
[0169] Preferably, the total content of alcohol(s) in composition B ranges from 5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0170] Composition A and / or B: Composition A and / or composition B used in the process according to the invention comprises (comprise) at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0171] Coloring agents: Composition A and / or composition B comprises (comprise) at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.
[0172] Preferably, composition B according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.
[0173] Preferably, composition A and / or composition B according to the invention comprises (comprise) one or more pigments.
[0174] Preferably, the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
[0175] More preferably, composition B according to the invention comprises at least one pigment.
[0176] By "pigment" is meant all pigments providing color to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight (i.e. gram of pigment per liter of water).
[0177] The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopedia of chemical technology and in the Ullmann encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.
[0178] They can be natural, of natural origin, or not.
[0179] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.
[0180] The pigments may for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0181] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, titanium oxide and stannic oxide (oxide tin).
[0182] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.
[0183] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, qui-nacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0184] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0185] As an example, we can also cite organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710); - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680); - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105); - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085); - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490); - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319); - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160); - VERT COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260); - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0186] The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
[0187] The organic pigment can also be a lake. By lake, we mean dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0188] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0189] Among the colorants, we can cite carminic acid. Also included are dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0190] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0191] The pigment may also be a special effect pigment. Special effect pigments are understood to mean pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vividness and a certain clarity) that is non-uniform and changes depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus opposed to colored pigments that provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
[0192] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter.
[0193] Examples of special effect pigments that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples of pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lacquer), Prestige pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3), Syncrystal pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2-SnO2), Colorona pearlescent pigments marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0194] Mention may also be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company BASF under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the BASF company under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF company under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK company under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF company under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF company under the name Copper 340A (Timica); red-tinted mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by MERCK company under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF company under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone);pink mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearls with a gold sheen marketed in particular by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearls with a silver sheen marketed in particular by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and orangey pinkish-green gold mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and mixtures thereof.
[0195] Still as an example of nacres, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0196] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0197] Finally, as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those marketed by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum may also be considered.
[0198] The special effect pigments may also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) which constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to shine.
[0199] The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.
[0200] These particles can have various shapes, in particular being platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical.
[0201] The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multi-layer structure or not and, in the case of a multi-layer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0202] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
[0203] When the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, they may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be single-material, multi-material, organic and / or inorganic.
[0204] More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.
[0205] The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or a metallic material.
[0206] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0207] Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0208] Platelet-shaped particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.
[0209] It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, oxide aluminum, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0210] Examples include aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
[0211] Mention may also be made of interference effect pigments not fixed on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), interference holographic flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances that fluoresce in daylight or that produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0212] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic and interference effects.
[0213] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 5 nm and 200 qm, preferably between 7 nm and 80 qm, and more preferably between 10 nm and 50 qm.
[0214] The pigments may be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.
[0215] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group that is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C2o fatty acid and polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures are used.
[0216] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
[0217] The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
[0218] Thus, the previously surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those which are described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention.These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicon compounds.
[0219] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.
[0220] The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such commercially.
[0221] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.
[0222] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0223] The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.
[0224] Preferably, an organic agent covalently bound to the pigments will be used.
[0225] The surface treatment agent may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and further more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
[0226] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments: - a PEG-Silicone treatment like the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an acrylate / Dimethicone and Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate Copolymer treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment like the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment like the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.
[0227] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in particulate form of sub-micron size in the coloring composition.
[0228] By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" we mean pigments of which the particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0229] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment) of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0230] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants, different from the alkoxysilanes of formula (I) or formula (T) previously described in the application. Among the suitable dispersing agents, mention may be made of: - amino-silicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers, - silicone acrylates such as Tego® RC 902, Tego® RC 922, Tego® RC 1041, and Tego® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik, - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxylic groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego® RC 1401, Tego® RC 1403, Tego® RC 1412, by Evonik.
[0231] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of amino-silicone type, different from the alkoxysilanes of formula (I) or of formula (T) previously described in the application and are cationic.
[0232] Preferably, the pigment(s) is (are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic, organic pigments or special effect pigments.
[0233] In a variant of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.
[0234] In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.
[0235] In another variant of the invention, the pigments according to the invention are special effect pigments, preferably pearlescent pigments, more preferably colored pearlescent pigments.
[0236] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may comprise one or more direct dye(s).
[0237] By "direct dye" is meant natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber. They can be ionic, for example cationic or anionic, or not ionic.
[0238] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
[0239] The direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called “acid” direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances. By anionic direct dyes is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from acid nitro direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azine dyes, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.
[0240] As acid dyes useful in the invention, mention may be made of the dyes of formulae (XIX), (XIX'), (XX), (XX'), (XXI), (XXI'), (XXII), (XXII'), (XXIII), (XXIV), (XXV) and (XXVI) following:
[0241] a) diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (XIX) or (XIX'):
[0242] formulas (XIX) and (XIX') in which:
[0243] - R7, R8, R9, Rio, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'1O, identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:
[0244] - alkyl;
[0245] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0246] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0247] - nitro, nitroso;
[0248] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X' -C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X' ' - with R° representing an atony hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0249] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion ca tionic;
[0250] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0251] - R”-S(O)2-, with R” representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, a aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino, aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;
[0252] - R'”-S(O)2-X'- with R”' representing an alkyl, optionally aryl group substituted, X' as defined above;
[0253] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0254] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more selected groups among i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined above;
[0255] - optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferably a benzo- group thiazolyl;
[0256] - cycloalkyl, in particular cyclohexyl;
[0257] - Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; pre preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or phenylamino groups;
[0258] - or two contiguous groups R7 with R8 or R8 with R9 or R9 with R10 together form a fused benzo group A'; and R'7 with R'8 or R'8 with R'9 or R'9 with R'1O together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X', X” and Ar as defined above;
[0259] - W represents a sigma o bond, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a radical divalent i) -NR- with R as defined above, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or Ra and Rb together form with the carbon atom which carries them a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;
[0260] it being understood that formulas (XIX) and (XIX') comprise at least one radical sulfonate (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical (O)CO—, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0261] A titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (XIX) on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow;
[0262] et à titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (XIX’) on peut citer : Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ;
[0263] b) les colorants azo anioniques pyrrazolone de formule (XX) et (XX’) : (XX), Bu " J ! v N -- ' / / i 5
[0264] formulas (XX) and (XX') in which:
[0265] - Ru, Rn and Rn, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, of halogen, an alkyl group or -(O)2S(O-), M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0266] - RM represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group - C(O)O-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0267] - Rn represents a hydrogen atom;
[0268] - Ri6 represents an oxo group in which case R'i6 is absent, or else R[5 with R[6 together form a double bond;
[0269] - Rn and Ri8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:
[0270] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0271] - Ar-OS(O)2- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups;
[0272] - R19 and R20, together form either a double bond or a benzo D' group, possibly substituted;
[0273] - R' 16, R' 19 and R'2O, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a alkyl or hydroxy group;
[0274] - R2i represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or alkoxy group;
[0275] - Ra and Rb, identical or different, are as defined previously, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;
[0276] - Y represents either a hydroxy group or an oxo group;
[0277] - » - * - represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxy group;
[0278] it being understood that formulas (XX) and (XX') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+ on one of rings D or E; preferably sodium sulfonate;
[0279] As examples of dyes of formula (XX) we can cite: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as examples of dyes of formula (XX') we can cite: Acid Yellow 17;
[0280] c) the anthraquinone dyes of formula (XXI) and (XXI'): (XXI), (XXD,
[0281] formulas (XXI) and (XXI') in which:
[0282] - R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen, halogen, or a group chosen from:
[0283] - alkyl;
[0284] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0285] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0286] - optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferably substituted by one or several groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0287] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more selected groups among alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0288] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0289] - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino
[0290] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0291] - Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R29 with R28 and R29, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
[0292] - alkyl;
[0293] - polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;
[0294] - aryl optionally substituted by one or more groups particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X' and X” as defined above, preferably R° represents an alkyl group;
[0295] - cycloalkyl, in particular cyclohexyl;
[0296] - Z represents a group chosen from hydroxy and NR'28R'29 with R'28 and R'29, identical or different, represent the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously;
[0297] it being understood that formulas (XXI) and (XXI') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate;
[0298] As examples of dyes of formula (XXI) we can cite: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2; and as examples of dyes of formula (XXI') we can cite: Acid Black 48;
[0299] d) nitrated dyes of formula (XXII), (XXII'): (XXII), (xxir), NO, 2
[0300] formulas (XXII) and (XXII') in which:
[0301] - R3o, R3i and R32, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, of halogen, or a group chosen from:
[0302] - alkyl;
[0303] - alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups;
[0304] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0305] - nitro, nitroso;
[0306] - polyhaloalkyl;
[0307] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X' ' - with R°; X, X' and X” as defined previously;
[0308] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0309] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0310] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0311] - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
[0312] - heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; particularly R 30, R3i and R32 represent a hydrogen atom;
[0313] - Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a alkyl group;
[0314] - W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a group -NH-;
[0315] - ALK represents a linear or branched divalent alkylene group, C1-C6; particularly ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;
[0316] - n is 1 or 2;
[0317] - p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive;
[0318] - q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive;
[0319] - u is 0 or 1;
[0320] - when n is 1, J represents a nitro, or nitroso group; particularly nitro ;
[0321] - when n is 2, J represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(0)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably J represents a radical -SO2-;
[0322] - M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
[0323] - . . . ... present or absent represents a benzo group possibly substituted by one or more R30 groups as defined above,
[0324] it being understood that formulas (XXII) and (XXII') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
[0325] As examples of dyes of formula (XXII) we can cite: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; examples of dyes of formula (XXII') include: Acid Yellow 1, 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid sodium salt, 2-piperidino 5-nitro benzene sulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;
[0326] e) triarylmethane dyes of formula (XXIII):
[0327] formula (XXIII) in which:
[0328] - R33, R34, R35 and R36, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted by a (O)mS(O-)-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined previously;
[0329] - R37, R38, R39, R4o, R4i, R42, R4i and R^, identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:
[0330] - alkyl;
[0331] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0332] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0333] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0334] - nitro, nitroso;
[0335] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing an atom hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0336] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion ca tionic;
[0337] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0338] - or two contiguous groups Ru with R2 or R42 with R3 or R3 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2 S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X', X” as defined above;
[0339] particularly R37 to Ro represent a hydrogen atom, and R4[ to R4, identical or different, represent a hydroxy group or (O)2S(O-)-, M+; and when R3 with R^ together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by a (O)2S(O-)- group;
[0340] it being understood that at least one of the cycles G, H, I or I' comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)- or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-; preferentially sulfonate.
[0341] As examples of dyes of formula (XXIII) we can cite: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0342] f) dyes derived from xanthene of formula (XXIV): (XXIV),
[0343] formula (XXIV) in which:
[0344] - R5, R46, R7 and R48, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;
[0345] - R9, R5o, R51 and R52, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, of halogen, or a group chosen from:
[0346] - alkyl;
[0347] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0348] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0349] - nitro, nitroso;
[0350] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion ca tionic;
[0351] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0352] particularly R49, R50, R5i and R52 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
[0353] - G represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NRe group with Re such that defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
[0354] - L represents an O-, M+ alcoholate; a S-, M+ thioalcoholate or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;
[0355] - L' represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an optionally substituted aryl group; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O-)-, M+ with m and M+ as defined previously;
[0356] - Q and Q', identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
[0357] - M+ is as defined previously.
[0358] As examples of dyes of formula (XXIV) we can cite: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;
[0359] g) dyes derived from indole of formula (XXV): (XXV),
[0360] formula (XXV) in which:
[0361] - R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60, identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:
[0362] - alkyl;
[0363] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0364] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0365] - nitro, nitroso;
[0366] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing an atom hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0367] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion ca tionic;
[0368] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0369] - G represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NRe group with Re such that defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
[0370] - Ri and Rh, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a alkyl group;
[0371] it being understood that formula (XXIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
[0372] As examples of dyes of formula (XXV) we can cite: Acid Blue 74;
[0373] h) quinoline-derived dyes of formula (XXVI): (XXVI),
[0374] formula (XXVI) in which:
[0375] - R6i represents a hydrogen atom, halogen or an alkyl group;
[0376] - R62, R63, and RM, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (O)2S(O-)-, M+ group with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
[0377] or R6[ with R62, or R6[ with R64, together form a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more (O)2S(O-)-, M+ groups with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
[0378] it being understood that formula (XXVI) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2 S(O-)-, M+ preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0379] As examples of dyes of formula (XXVI) we can cite: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
[0380] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes can also be used, particularly poultices or extracts based on henna.
[0381] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
[0382] Preferably, the total content of coloring agent(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.001% to 20%, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0383] Preferably, the total content of coloring agent(s) in composition B ranges from 0.001% to 20%, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0384] Preferably, the total content of pigment(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0385] Preferably, the total content of pigment(s) in composition B ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B. Composition C:
[0386] Advantageously, the process according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one step c) of application to the keratin fibres of at least one composition C, comprising at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (!') as described above, their oligomers and / or their mixtures.
[0387] According to the invention, composition C is different from composition B.
[0388] According to the invention, composition C is different or identical to composition A; preferably identical.
[0389] According to the invention, when step c) is implemented in the method according to the invention, step c) is implemented after steps a) and b), and step a) is carried out before step b).
[0390] The alkoxysilanes present in composition C according to the invention are as described previously for composition A.
[0391] The preferences and embodiments described for composition A also apply to composition C according to the invention.
[0392] In particular, composition C according to the invention preferably comprises at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formulas (I) or (T) as described above, more preferably of formula (I), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and optionally in addition at least one non-amino alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (II) as described above, their oligomers and / or their mixtures.
[0393] More particularly, composition C according to the invention preferably comprises at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formulas (I) or (I') as described above, more preferably of formula (I), and optionally in addition at least one non-amino alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (II) as described above.
[0394] Preferably, the amino alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, are present in composition C in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.75% to 25% by weight, even better still from 1% to 20% by weight, always better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C. Preferably, the total content of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane in composition C ranges from 0.1% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.75% to 25% by weight, even better still from 1% to 20% by weight, always better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0395] Preferably, the non-amino alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), its oligomers and / or their mixtures are present in composition C in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 15%, more preferably still from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C. Preferably, when composition C comprises methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), octytriethoxysilane (OTES) and / or mixtures thereof, the total content of methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), octytriethoxysilane (OTES) and / or mixtures thereof in composition C ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 15%, more preferably still from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0396] Preferably, the composition C used in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent as described previously.
[0397] When composition A and / or composition C according to the invention comprises (comprise) water, the pH of composition A and / or composition C is preferably alkaline; more preferably, the pH of composition A and / or composition C is between 7 and 12, better still between 7.5 and 11.5; even better still between 8 and 11, always better still between 9 and 10.5.
[0398] For the purpose of adjusting the pH, composition A and / or composition C may further comprise an alkaline agent.
[0399] According to one embodiment of the invention, composition A and / or composition C according to the invention comprises an alkaline agent.
[0400] The pH of the compositions is measured at room temperature.
[0401] As an alkaline agent, mention may be made of ammonia, alkanolamines, and / or basic amino acids.
[0402] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, trishydroxymethylaminomethane.
[0403] More preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine and / or 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol.
[0404] For the purposes of the invention, the term "amino acid" means organic compounds having two functional groups: both a carboxyl group -COOH or carboxylate and an amine group -NH2, the amine group optionally being methylated, i.e. in the form -NR2 or N+R3, where at least one R=CH3.
[0405] Preferably, the amino acid(s) are chosen from aminocarboxylic acids such as alpha-aminocarboxylic acid.
[0406] By “basic amino acid” is meant amino acids having an isoelectric point greater than 7.
[0407] Preferably, the basic amino acid(s) are chosen from arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine, more preferably arginine and / or lysine.
[0408] According to a particular embodiment, composition A and / or composition C may comprise an inorganic alkaline agent, preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and / or potassium carbonate.
[0409] Composition A and / or composition C may also comprise acidifying agents to adjust the pH. Preferably, the acidifying agents are chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid and / or mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.
[0410] Composition A and / or composition B and / or composition C according to the invention may also contain any adjuvant or additive usually used in cosmetic compositions intended for the treatment of keratin fibers.
[0411] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, peptizers, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers P and CP previously described, preservatives, amino silicones, waxes other than silicones in wax form, and mixtures thereof.
[0412] Compositions A, B and C may be presented in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / W / O), in the form of a cream, mousse, stick, dispersion of vesicles in particular of ionic or non-ionic lipids, two-phase or multi-phase lotion.
[0413] According to one embodiment of the invention, composition B comprises at least one polymer P as described previously and at least one pigment as described previously.
[0414] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition B comprises at least one CP copolymer as described previously, and at least one pigment as described previously.
[0415] Process for coloring keratin fibers: The process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention, comprises at least the following steps: a) a step of applying at least one composition A to the keratin fibres, b) a step of applying at least one composition B, different from composition A, to the keratin fibres, c) and optionally a step of applying at least one composition C to the keratin fibers; it being understood that: - composition A and / or composition B comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures; - composition C is different from composition B; - composition C is different or identical to composition A; and - when step c) is implemented, step c) is carried out after steps a) and b), step a) having been carried out before step b).
[0416] According to the invention, steps a) and b), and optionally c), are implemented sequentially.
[0417] According to the invention, when implemented, step c) is implemented after steps a) and b), step a) having been carried out in this case before step b).
[0418] According to the invention, step a) can be implemented before or after step b); preferably step a) is implemented before step b).
[0419] According to a preferred embodiment of the coloring process according to the invention, step a) is first implemented, then step b) and finally step c).
[0420] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a single step a), a single step b) and optionally a single step c).
[0421] The applications of compositions A and / or B, and / or optionally C, on keratin fibers can be carried out on said fibers, dry or wet.
[0422] Preferably, the keratin fibers are hair. The composition according to the invention can be applied to all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0423] Application to the hair can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a brush, a sponge or with the fingers.
[0424] Application to hair is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
[0425] After applying compositions A and / or B, and / or optionally C, the hair may be left to dry or dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0426] Preferably, the method according to the invention may further comprise a step d) of applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating device.
[0427] According to the invention, a step d) is preferably implemented between steps a) and b) or between steps b) and a), more preferably between steps a) and b). Without contradicting the preceding paragraph, a step d) may preferably be implemented between steps a) and c) or between steps b) and c), more preferably between steps b) and c).
[0428] Such a device may be, for example, a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a climazon, etc. Preferably, step d) of applying heat is carried out using a hair dryer.
[0429] During step d) of applying heat to the hair, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, or passing the fingers through.
[0430] When step d) of applying heat to the hair is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C.
[0431] Advantageously, the coloring process according to the invention may optionally further comprise a step e) of rinsing the keratin fibers.
[0432] The term “rinsing step” means the application of water to the keratin fibers.
[0433] Preferably, a rinsing step e) is implemented between steps a) and b).
[0434] According to one embodiment of the invention, after the application of composition C to the keratin fibers, it is preferable to respect a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular of 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably of 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition C on said fibers.
[0435] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention, comprises the following steps in order: a) a step of applying at least one composition A to the keratin fibers, e) a step of rinsing the keratin fibers, (di) a step of applying heat to the keratin fibres using a heating device, b) a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition B, different from composition A, d2) a step of applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating device, then c) optionally a step of applying at least one composition C to the keratin fibers.
[0436] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention.
[0437] Examples: In the examples below, temperature is given in degrees Celsius, and corresponds to room temperature (20-25°C), unless otherwise stated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise stated.
[0438] Example 1: Preparation of the CPI copolymer - Isobutyl acrylate / Tertio-butyl acrylate / Acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate (25 / 65 / 10} In a controlled IL reactor, 62.5g of isobutyl acrylate, 162.5g of tert-butyl acrylate, 25g of acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, 2.5g of the radical initiator Trigonox T21S and 360g of an isododecane / ethyl acetate (50 / 50) solvent are introduced. The medium is degassed with argon and then heated to 90°C with stirring. The reaction medium is maintained for 7 hours at 90°C. Stripping is then carried out with 300mL of isododecane to remove the residual monomers.
[0439] At the end of the reaction, a CPI copolymer is obtained in solution in isododecane.
[0440] Example 2: Preparation of the copolymer CP2 - Isobornyl acrylate / Acrylate 2-Ethylhexyl / Acetoacetoxy Ethyl Methacrylate (60 / 30 / 10) In an IL-controlled reactor, 90g of isobutyl acrylate monomer, 45g of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 30g of acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, 100g of an isododecane / ethyl acetate (70 / 30) solvent and 100g of isododecane alone are introduced. The medium is degassed with argon and then heated to 90°C with stirring (100 rpm). Once the reaction medium reaches a temperature of 90°C, 338g of a mixture composed of 200g of isododecane, 90g of isobornyl acrylate, 45g of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and 3g of Trigonox 21S initiator are poured in one hour. The reaction medium is kept for 7 hours at 90°C. The next day, the reaction medium is stripped with 2x200mL of cold isododecane to remove the residual monomers.
[0441] At the end of the reaction, a CP2 copolymer is obtained in solution in isododecane.
[0442] This CP2 copolymer is characterized by GPC: * Mw = 138,800 g / mol; * Mn = 12,400 g / mol *Ip= 11.2.
[0443] Example 3: The following compositions are prepared (in g / 100g of raw material as is):
[0444] [Tables 1] Composition Ax A2 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES)(1) 10 10 Methyltriethoxysilane (MTES)(2) - 3 Ethanol - 10 pH agent Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0445]
[0446] [Tables 2] Composition Bi b2 Copolymer CP 1(3) 8 (in active matter) - Copolymer CP 2 (4) - 8 (in active matter) Pigment(5) 8 8 Ethanol 13 13 Polydimethylsiloxane (6) 5 5 Polymethylsilsesquioxane (7) 5 5 Hexylene glycol 10 10 Butyl acetate 27.2 27.2 Isododecane Qsp 100 Qsp 100 [Tables 3] Composition Ci C2 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES)(1) 10 10 Methyltriethoxysilane (MTES)(2) - 3 Ethanol - 10 pH agent Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 1. Sold under the trade name KBE-903 by Shin Etsu Company; 2. Marketed under reference 175579 by Sigma Aldrich; 3. Statistical copolymer isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate (25 / 65 / 10) obtained according to the preparation process described above in example 1, in solution at 58.8% by weight in isododecane; 4. Random copolymer Isobornyl acrylate / 2-ethylhexyl acrylate / Acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate (60 / 30 / 10) obtained according to the preparation process described above in Example 2, at 49.4% by weight in isododecane; 5. Marketed under the name Tarox Iron Oxide R-516 HP by the Titan Kogyo company; 6. Marketed under the reference Belsil ® DM 60000 by the Wacker company; 7. Marketed under the reference BELSIL® PMS MK POWDER by the company Wacker. Protocols:
[0447] PI Protocol (Comparative): B1 alone Composition B1 according to the invention is applied with the finger to a lock of 90% white natural dry hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0448] The lock of hair is left for 2 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is not rinsed.
[0449] The lock of hair is then dried with a hair dryer for 2 minutes.
[0450] The coloration obtained (at To) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0451] Once the coloring at To has been evaluated, the lock of hair undergoes the following sebum / shampoo cycle 3 times: - Application with a mascara-type brush of 0.25pL of sebum according to the formula below, on the strand of hair (10 brush strokes on the strand, from root to tip); - The lock of hair is left in the open air for 1 hour; - Wash the strand with a standard shampoo (0.4g / strand); - The wick is then rinsed; - Wash the strand a second time with a standard shampoo (0.4g / strand); and finally - The strand is then rinsed, combed and dried with a hair dryer.
[0452] The coloring obtained (at T3C) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0453] The sebum composition used includes: 6.7% by weight of octyldodecanol, 28% by weight of oleic acid, 13.7% by weight of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 22.9% by weight of oleyl erucate and 28.7% by weight of triisostearin.
[0454] ProtocolP2 (Invention): Al then B1 Composition Al according to the invention is applied with the finger to a lock of 90% white natural dry hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0455] The lock of hair is left for 5 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is then rinsed and dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0456] Composition B1 is then applied with the finger to the lock of hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0457] The lock of hair is left for 2 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is not rinsed.
[0458] The lock of hair is then dried with a hair dryer for 2 minutes.
[0459] The coloring obtained (at To) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0460] Once the coloring at To has been evaluated, the lock of hair undergoes the sebum / shampoo cycle described for the PL process 3 times.
[0461] The coloration obtained (at T3C) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0462] Protocol P3 (Invention): B1 nuis Al Composition B1 according to the invention is applied with the finger to a lock of 90% white natural dry hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0463] The lock of hair is left for 2 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is not rinsed.
[0464] The lock of hair is then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0465] Composition Al is then applied by finger to the lock of hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0466] The lock of hair is left for 5 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is not rinsed. It is then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0467] The coloration obtained (at To) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0468] Once the coloring at To has been evaluated, the lock of hair undergoes the sebum / shampoo cycle described for the PL process 3 times.
[0469] The coloration obtained (at T3C) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0470] Protocol P4 (Invention): Al then B1 nuis Cl Composition Al according to the invention is applied with the finger to a lock of 90% white natural dry hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0471] The lock of hair is left for 5 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is then rinsed and dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0472] Composition B1 is then applied with the finger to the lock of hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0473] The lock of hair is left for 2 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is not rinsed.
[0474] The lock of hair is then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0475] Composition Cl is then applied with the finger to the lock of hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0476] The lock of hair is left for 5 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is not rinsed. It is then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0477] The coloration obtained (at To) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0478] Once the coloring at To has been evaluated, the lock of hair undergoes the sebum / shampoo cycle described for the PL process 3 times.
[0479] The coloration obtained (at T3C) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0480] Protocol P5 (Invention): A2 nuis B1 nuis C2 Composition A2 according to the invention is applied with the finger to a lock of 90% white natural dry hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0481] The lock of hair is left for 5 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is then rinsed and dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0482] Composition B1 is then applied with the finger to the lock of hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0483] The lock of hair is left for 2 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is not rinsed.
[0484] The lock of hair is then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0485] Composition C2 is then applied with the finger to the lock of hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0486] The lock of hair is left for 5 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is not rinsed. It is then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0487] The coloration obtained (at To) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0488] Once the coloring at To has been evaluated, the lock of hair undergoes the sebum / shampoo cycle described for the PL process 3 times.
[0489] The coloration obtained (at T3C) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0490] Protocol P6 (Comparative): B2 alone Composition B2 according to the invention is applied with the finger to a lock of 90% white natural dry hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0491] The lock of hair is left for 2 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is not rinsed.
[0492] The lock of hair is then dried with a hair dryer for 2 minutes.
[0493] The coloring obtained (at To) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0494] Once the coloring at To has been evaluated, the lock of hair undergoes the sebum / shampoo cycle described for the PL process 3 times.
[0495] The coloration obtained (at T3C) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0496] Protocol P7 (Invention): A1 then B2 then C1 Composition Al according to the invention is applied with the finger to a lock of 90% white natural dry hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0497] The lock of hair is left for 5 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is then rinsed and dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0498] Composition B2 is then applied with the finger to the lock of hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0499] The lock of hair is left for 2 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is not rinsed.
[0500] The lock of hair is then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0501] Composition Cl is then applied with the finger to the lock of hair, at a rate of 0.6 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0502] The lock of hair is left for 5 minutes at room temperature. The lock of hair is not rinsed. It is then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0503] The coloration obtained (at To) is then evaluated according to the protocol below.
[0504] Once the coloring at To has been evaluated, the lock of hair undergoes the sebum / shampoo cycle described for the PL process 3 times.
[0505] The coloration obtained (at T3C) is then evaluated according to the protocol below. Results:
[0506] The color persistence of the highlights to shampoo and sebum was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0507] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the color intensity, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0508] The persistence of the color is evaluated by the AE color difference between the colored strands before shampooing, then after having undergone the shampoo / sebum cycle 3 times according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more the color is persistent / resistant to sebum and shampoos.
[0509] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation:
[0510] In this equation, for the persistence of the coloring to shampoos, L*, a*, b* represent the values measured at T3C after coloring the hair and after having undergone the sebum / shampoo cycles, and Lo*, a0*, b0* represent the values measured at To after coloring the hair but before the sebum / shampoo cycles.
[0511] The results obtained with protocols PI to P7 are grouped in the table below:
[0512] [T ables 4] Wicks TL* a* b* AE Protocol PI To 30.4 26.0 19.3 - (Comparative) Tse 44.1 14.7 13.7 18.6 Protocol P2 To 30.9 25.9 18.9 - (Invention) Toc 33.7 24.9 18.7 3.0 Protocol P3 To 31.2 26.2 19.2 - (Invention) Toc 36.0 22.4 16.2 6.8 Protocol P4 To 30.9 25.2 18.3 - (Invention) Toc 32.7 25.5 19.2 2.0 Protocol P5 To 30.9 26.7 19.7 - (Invention) Toc 31.5 27.2 20.3 1.0 Protocol P6 To 31.8 23.6 17.2 - (Comparative) Toc 42.7 22.1 19.5 11.2 Protocol P7 To 32.9 27.0 20.3 - (Invention) Toc 38.9 27.0 22.4 6.4
[0513] The locks of hair colored by the processes P2, P3, P4, P5 and P7, according to the invention, have low AE values compared to the locks of hair colored by the comparative protocols PI and P6.
[0514] The colored coatings of keratin fibers obtained with processes P2, P3, P4, P6 and P8, according to the invention, have better persistence to shampoos and sebum than the colored coatings of keratin fibers obtained with the comparative coloring processes PI and P7.
Claims
Claims
1. Process for coloring keratin fibers comprising at least the following steps: a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres at least one composition A comprising at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (!') below, their oligomers and / or their mixtures: in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb and Rc; identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; - Rd and Re, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1; b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres at least one composition B, different from composition A, comprising at least one polymer P comprising repeating units derived from at least one monomer of formula (III): in which: - Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, - Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, - Rd represents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, and - L represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene or cycloalkylene group; and it being understood that: - composition A and / or composition B comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures.
2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that step a) is implemented before step b).
3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a step c) of application to the keratin fibers of at least one composition C, comprising at least one amino alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (I') as defined in claim 1, their oligomers and / or their mixtures; and it being understood that: - composition C is different from composition B; - composition C is different or identical to composition A; and - step c) is carried out after steps a) and b), and step a) is carried out before step b).
4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino alkoxysilane(s) in composition A and / or composition C are chosen from said compounds of formula (I), their oligomers, and their mixtures.
5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition A and / or composition C further comprises at least one non-amino alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of the following formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures: % (II) in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group; - Rc represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms of carbon such as ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; it being understood that if Ra and Rc do not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb cannot represent a hydrogen atom - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably ranging from 0 to 3 - Rf represents a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; or a group of formula (IIa) below: ,, (Ikl) in which Rn represents a hydroxy group (OH); an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl.
6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said compound(s) of formula (I) in composition A and / or composition C are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) for which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, or an alkoxy group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably an ethoxy; - Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as an ethyl; - Rd and Re, identical, represent a hydrogen atom or Rd denotes a hydrogen atom and Re denotes a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical such as cyclohexyl;- A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; - r denotes an integer equal to 0.;
7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said compound(s) of formula (I) in composition A and / or composition C are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) for which: - Ra represents an ethoxy group, - Rb and Rc are identical and represent an ethyl, - Rd and Re represent a hydrogen atom, - A represents a propylene, and - r denotes an integer equal to 0.
8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of amino alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) and / or of formula (I'), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, in composition A or composition C ranges from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably still from 0.75% to 25% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight, even better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A or composition C.
9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer(s) P are chosen from the copolymers CP obtained by the polymerization of: - 0% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (1) chosen from 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, isobornyl acrylate, isobornyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof; - 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (2) of formula (III); and - 0% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (3) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers, and mixtures thereof, it being understood that said CP copolymers are obtained by polymerization of at least one monomer (2) with at least one monomer (1) and / or at least one monomer (3).
10. Process according to claim 9, characterized in that the copolymer CP comprises from 80% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from Cr-C4 alkyl acrylates and Cr-C4 alkyl methacrylates; and preferably the copolymer CP comprises from 80% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (3) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates relative to the total weight of the monomers, and no monomer (1).
11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of polymer(s) P in the composition B ranges from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of coloring agent(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition B further comprises at least one non-amine silicone; preferably chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (dimethiconols); silicone resins, in particular MQ type resins and T type resins, in particular polymethylsilsesquioxane resins; and mixtures thereof.
14. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition A has a pH ranging from 7 to 12; preferably from 7.5 to 11.5; more preferably from 8 to 11; better still from 9 to 10.
5.
15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition B is anhydrous.
16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition B further comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil, preferably chosen from: - C8-C16 hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably C8-C14 branched alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane; - C3-C8 short-chain esters such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate and butyl acetate; - and mixtures thereof; and more preferably still in a total content ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, better still from 10% to 75%, even better still from 20% to 70% by weight, or even from 35% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
17. A method according to any preceding claim, ca- characterized in that composition B further comprises at least one alcohol chosen from C1-C6 monoalcohols and C2-C6 polyols; more preferably in a total content ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, better still from 10% to 50% by weight, even better still from 15% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
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