anhydrous composition for care and / or makeup of keratinous materials

Abstract

anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25°C chosen from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C16-C30) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and one of their combinations; b) more than 0.5% by weight of at least one oil chosen from N-acyl amino acid esters, esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one C2-C6 polyol. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: anhydrous composition for care and / or makeup of keratinous materials Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] It is common in the cosmetic field to prepare compositions comprising various active ingredients for various purposes. Moreover, an ultimate goal of the cosmetic field has always been to deliver highly effective products to consumers with skin benefits such as moisturizing, whitening, cleansing, freshening and others.

[0003] However, some cosmetic active ingredients are sensitive to water and / or oxygen, typical representatives of which are ascorbic acid, ferulic acid and tocopherol.

[0004] Some products focus on a water-free cosmetic base to avoid contact with water. For example, there are some kits comprising an anhydrous composition and an aqueous composition, in which the cosmetic active ingredients are in the form of anhydrous powder. However, the bioavailability of the active ingredient is a challenge for some products. There are some kits comprising an anhydrous composition and an aqueous composition, in which cosmetic active ingredients are present in the anhydrous composition, and the two compositions can form a microemulsion when mixed together. However, some anhydrous compositions are sticky, which is unpleasant for consumers.

[0005] There is still a need for an anhydrous composition, in particular for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which can form a microemulsion when mixed with water or an aqueous composition, which is not too sticky. Summary of the invention

[0006] Thus, an object of the present invention is to provide an anhydrous composition, in particular for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which can form a microemulsion when mixed with water or an aqueous composition, which is not too sticky.

[0007] Another object of the present invention is to propose a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials.

[0008] According to the first aspect, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25°C selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C16-C30) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and one of their combinations; b. more than 0.5% by weight of at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the composition; and c. at least one C2-C6 polyol.

[0009] The inventors discovered that the anhydrous composition can form a microemulsion when mixed with water or an aqueous composition by gentle mixing, which does not have a sticky feeling.

[0010] The aqueous composition according to the present invention comprises 40% by weight or more of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising: i. mixing the anhydrous composition according to the present invention and an aqueous composition to form a microemulsion; and ii. the application of the microemulsion to keratinous materials.

[0012] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the detailed description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between...and..." and "range from...to...".

[0014] As used herein, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted to encompass all specifically cited features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

[0015] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0016] As used herein, the term "at least one" as used in this specification is equivalent to the term "one or more".

[0017] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly recognized by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly recognized by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0018] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is particularly considered according to the present invention.

[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably does not contain water. Where appropriate, the small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition which contain it in residual quantity but are not deliberately provided.

[0021] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25°C selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C16-C30) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and one of their combinations; b. more than 0.5% by weight of at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the composition; and c. at least one C2-C6 polyol. Non-ionic surfactant

[0022] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25°C chosen from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (Ci6-C3o) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and one of their combinations.

[0023] The HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value is defined according to the method of Griffin in J. Ploughshare. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. In particular, the "HLB" value refers to the ratio of hydrophilic groups to lipophilic groups in surfactants, and relates to the solubility of the surfactants. Surfactants with higher HLB are more soluble in a hydrophilic system. Polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid

[0024] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester.

[0025] Preferably, the polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid is chosen from mono-, di- and triesters of glycerin and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid including 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, capric acid and caprylic acid.

[0026] Preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from PG2 caprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate,PG6 trilaurate, PG7 caprate, PG7 dicaprate, PG7 tricaprate, PG7 caprylate, PG7 dicaprylate, PG7 tricaprylate, PG7 laurate, PG7 dilaurate, PG7 trilaurate, PG8 caprate, PG8 dicaprate, PG8 tricaprate, PG8 caprylate, PG8 dicaprylate, PG8 tricaprylate, PG8 laurate, PG8 dilaurate, PG8 trilaurate, PG9 caprate, PG9 dicaprate, PG9 tricaprate, PG9 caprylate, PG9 dicaprylate, PG9 tricaprylate, PG9 laurate, PG9 dilaurate, PG9 trilaurate, PG10 caprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG 10 tricaprylate, PG 10 dilaurate and PG 10 trilaurate.

[0027] It is more preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from polyglyceryl caprylate with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0028] Examples of polyglyceryl caprylate with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units include polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, for example, a product sold by the company TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SUNSOFT Q-8H-C.

[0029] Alkyl (C -C 301) polyoxyethylenated ether (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated ether (1-30 PO)

[0030] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (Ci6-C30) ether.

[0031] Preferably, the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (Ci6-C30) ether which can be used as the nonionic surfactants according to the present invention, is chosen from:

[0032] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30; Polyoxyethylene (30) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4630 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0033] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12; Polyoxyethylene (12) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4612 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0034] PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24; Polyoxyethylene (24) Polyoxypropylene (13) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name UNILUBE 50MT-2200B from NOF Corporation,

[0035] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (6) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4620 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0036] PPG-4 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold by Nikkol PBC-31 of Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0037] PPG-8 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-41 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0038] PPG-4 Ceteth-10; Polyoxyethylene (10) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-33 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0039] PPG-4 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-34 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0040] PPG-5 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (5) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Procetyl AWS from Croda Inc,

[0041] PPG-8 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-44 by Nikko Chemicals Co. and

[0042] PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylene Polyoxypropylene Stearyl Ether (34 EO) (23 PO) such as those sold under the name Unisafe 34S-23 from Pola Chemical Industries.

[0043] It may be preferable that the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (C16-C24) ether is selected from polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) alkyl (C16-C24) ethers, for example PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-5 Ceteth-20, PPG-8 Ceteth-20 and PPG-23 Steareth-34.

[0044] It is preferable that the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (Ci6-C30) ether is chosen from PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-5 Ceteth-20, PPG-8 Ceteth-20, and a combination thereof. Alkyl polyglucosides

[0045] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one alkyl polyglycoside.

[0046] Preferably, the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used as non-ionic surfactant according to the present invention are of formula (I):

[0047] RO-Gx (I)

[0048] in which • R is a C6-C12 alkyl group, preferably a C6-C10 alkyl group, • G is a moiety derived from a reducing saccharide containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a glucose unit, and • x' represents the average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglycoside from 1 to 10.

[0049] For a preferred alkyl polyglycoside, x' can only take integer values. In any physical sample of alkyl polyglycosides, there will generally be molecules having different values ​​of x'. The physical sample can be characterized by the average value of x', which can take non-integer values. In the present disclosure, the values ​​of x' are to be understood as average values.

[0050] The hydrophilic polysaccharide portion of the alkyl polyglycoside contains from about 1 to about 10, preferably from 1.4 to 3, saccharide units on average. The saccharide unit may be galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl and / or galactosyl units, and preferably a glucoside unit. Mixtures of these saccharide moieties may be used in the alkyl polysaccharide. Glucoside is the preferred saccharide moiety.

[0051] The hydrophobic group on the alkyl polyglycoside is a straight or branched alkyl group containing from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms on average. Preferably, the alkyl group is primarily a straight chain C6-C10 alkyl group.

[0052] Useful alkyl polyglycosides of the present invention are also disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,565,647, Llenado, issued January 21, 1986, having a hydrophobic group containing from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms, preferably from about 6 to about 10 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide, e.g., a hydrophilic polyglycoside group containing from about 1.3 to about 10, preferably from about 1.3 to about 3, most preferably from about 1.3 to about 2.7 saccharide units. Any reducing saccharide containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms may be used, for example, glucose, galactose and galactosyl moieties may be replaced by glucosyl moieties (optionally, the hydrophobic group is attached at positions 2, 3, 4, etc., thus giving a glucose or galatose as opposed to a glucoside or galactoside). The intersaccharide linkages may be, for example, between position one of the additional saccharide units and positions 2, 3, 4 and / or 6 on the preceding saccharide units.

[0053] Preferably, in formula (I): • R is a C8-C10 alkyl group, • G is selected from the galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl and galactosyl units, • x' is worth from 1.4 to 3.

[0054] More preferably, in formula (I), G is a glucoside. In other words, the alkyl glycoside is chosen from alkyl glucosides, where the alkyl is a C8-C alkyl 10-

[0055] Examples of alkyl polyglycoside include, but are not limited to: caprylyl / caprylyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and octyl glucoside.

[0056] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from caprylyl / capryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside and one of their combinations.

[0057] Preferred alkyl polyglucosides are available under the trade name, for example:

[0058] For decyl glucoside: Plantacare® 2000 UP sold by Cognis,

[0059] For caprylyl / capryl glucoside: Oramix™ CG 110 sold by Seppic,

[0060] For octyl glucoside: Rewosan sold by Rewo.

[0061] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 2% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0062] The composition according to the invention comprises more than 0.5% by weight of at least one oil chosen from N-acyl amino acid esters, esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] The term "oil" is intended to denote a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa). N-acyl amino acid ester

[0064] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one N-acyl amino acid ester.

[0065] Preferably, the N-acyl amino acid ester which can be used as an oil according to the present invention is of formula (II):

[0066] R1(CO)N(R2)CH(R3)(CH2)n(CO)OR4(II)

[0067] in which: • n is an integer equal to 0, 1 or 2, • Ri represents a linear or branched C5-C2i alkyl or alkenyl, • R2 represents hydrogen or a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl, • R3 represents hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, or a linear alkyl or branched in C3-C4, • R4 represents a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl or a linear or branched C2-C10 alkenyl, or a sterol residue.

[0068] Preferably, the group Ri (CO)- is an acyl group of an acid chosen from capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, coconut oil fatty acids and palm kernel oil fatty acids. These fatty acids may also comprise a hydroxyl group. Even more preferably, it is lauric acid.

[0069] Preferably, the N(R2)CH(R3)(CH2)n(CO)- portion of the amino acid ester is selected from the following amino acids: glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, proline, hydroxyproline, beta-alanine, aminobutyric acid, aminocaproic acid, sarcosine or N-methyl-beta-alanine. Even more preferably, it is sarcosine.

[0070] Preferably, the amino acid esters corresponding to the OR4 group are obtained from alcohols chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, tert-butanol, isobutanol, 3-methyl-l-butanol, 2-methyl-l-butanol, fusel oil, pentanol, hexanol, cyclohexanol, octanol, 2-ethylhexanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, 2-hexadecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.

[0071] N-acyl amino acid esters are preferably obtained from natural sources of amino acids. In this case, the amino acids are derived from the hydrolysis of natural plant proteins (oat, wheat, soy, palm, coconut) and then necessarily lead to mixtures of amino acids, which must then be esterified and N-acylated. The preparation of such amino acids is more preferably described in patent application FR 2 796 550.

[0072] The most preferred N-acyl amino acid ester is isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate (as shown in formula (III)), such as the product sold under the name ELDEW SL-205 by Ajinomoto Company.

[0073] Formula (III)

[0074] The N-acyl amino acid esters preferably used for the present invention and their synthesis are described in patent applications EP 1044676 and EP 0928608 by Ajinomoto CO.

[0075]

[0076] Esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms

[0077] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one ester of aliphatic polycarboxylic acid and aliphatic alcohol comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0078] As esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, we may mention in particular esters of C2-C26 aliphatic polyacids and of C1-C10 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, preferably greater than or equal to 10.

[0079] Still in the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 aliphatic dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C6 aliphatic mono- or dihydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0080] More preferably, the esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms are chosen from diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] Advantageously, the oil is present in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 3% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C2-C6 polyols

[0082] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises at least one C2-C6 polyol.

[0083] The term "polyol" herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups.

[0084] The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0085] The C2-C6 polyol may be chosen from glycerin and its derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol may be chosen from glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and a combination thereof.

[0086] In the present invention, the definition of polyol includes all possible isomers. For example, propylene glycol includes 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol and 1,1-propylene glycol; butylene glycol includes 1,4-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, etc.

[0087] Preferably, the anhydrous composition contains at least one C2-C6 polyol chosen from dipropylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, and one of their combinations.

[0088] Preferably, the C2-C6 polyol is present in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 96% by weight, and more preferably from 80% by weight to 94% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 2% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably from 6% by weight to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10% by weight to 30% by weight of propanediol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 10% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 20% by weight to 70% by weight, more preferably from 30% by weight to 60% by weight of dipropylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] More preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 5% by weight to 15% by weight of glycerin, from 10% by weight to 30% by weight of propanediol, and from 30% by weight to 60% by weight of dipropylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0093] Preferably, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition for care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 2% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25°C selected from a polyglyceryl caprylate with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) alkyl (C16-C24) ethers, C8-C10 alkyl polyglucosides, and one of their combinations; b. from 3% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, esters of C4-C22 aliphatic dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C6 aliphatic mono- or dihydroxy alcohols, and a combination thereof; and c. from 80% by weight to 94% by weight of at least one C2-C6 polyol selected from glycerin, propanediol, dipropylene glycol, and a combination thereof. Cosmetic active ingredients

[0094] Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients sensitive to water and / or oxygen.

[0095] Examples of water and / or oxygen-sensitive cosmetic active ingredients include ferulic acid, enzymes (e.g., lactoperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase, or cellulases), natural extracts (such as green tea, balsam extract, thyme extract, polygonum cuspidatum root extract), procyanidol oligomers (OPC) (such as hawthorn OPC, pine OPC, and grape OPC), vitamins (preferably vitamin B (e.g., vitamin Bb, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9, or Bn), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters or retinol (vitamin A) and its esters), pantothenic acid, phosphate derivatives and glucosyl derivatives, urea, and rutin.

[0096] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more cosmetic active ingredients which are not sensitive to water and / or oxygen.

[0097] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients that are not sensitive to water and / or oxygen include glycyrrhetinic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol, capryloyl salicylic acid, etc.

[0098] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of cosmetic active ingredients according to the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0099] The composition according to the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example perfumes, preservatives and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes such as sodium chloride or a pH regulator (for example citric acid or potassium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

[0100] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select the adjuvant or optional adjuvants) added to the composition according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition. Dosage form and use

[0101] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods in the cosmetic field.

[0102] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention can be mixed with water or an aqueous composition to obtain a microemulsion.

[0103] Alternatively, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be a composition of a dual-chamber or multi-chamber product, where the composition according to the present invention is in one chamber, water or an aqueous composition is in the other chamber(s). Consumers may mix the composition in one chamber with water or the aqueous composition in the other chamber to obtain a microemulsion.

[0104] "Microemulsion" can be defined in two ways, namely, in the broader sense and in the narrower sense. In other words, there is one case ("microemulsion in the narrow sense") in which microemulsion refers to a thermodynamically stable single isotropic liquid phase containing a ternary system having three ingredients, namely an oil component, an aqueous component, and a surfactant, and the other case ("microemulsion in the broad sense") in which, among the typical thermodynamically unstable emulsion systems, microemulsion further includes those such emulsions exhibiting transparent or translucent aspects due to their smaller particle sizes (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53). "Microemulsion" as used herein refers to "microemulsion in the broad sense."

[0105] Advantageously, in the microemulsion formed with the composition according to the present invention, the droplets have a number average size of 120 nm or less, preferably from 20 nm to 80 nm, more preferably from 20 nm to 50 nm.

[0106] The average volume size of the droplets can be determined according to the known method of dynamic light scattering (DLS). As a device that can be used for this determination, mention may be made of the particle size analyzer from the Malvern brand, model Zetasizer Nano ZS, equipped with a standard laser with a power of 4 mW and a wavelength of 633 nm. This device is also equipped with a correlator (25 ns to 8000 s, 4000 channels max.).

[0107] The microemulsion obtained by the anhydrous composition with water or an aqueous composition can be used to care for and / or make up keratinous materials.

[0108] Thus, according to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising:

[0109] i) mixing the anhydrous composition according to the present invention with water or an aqueous composition to form a microemulsion; and

[0110] ii) the application of the microemulsion to keratinous materials.

[0111] The aqueous composition may comprise 40% by weight of water or more, for example 45% by weight to 99.9% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES

[0112] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being of a limiting nature.

[0113] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0114] [Table 1]

[0115] [Tables 1] Nom INCI Nom commercial Fournisseur Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate SUNSOFT Q-8H-C TAIYO KAGAKU Polyglyceryl-10 laurate DERMOFEEL G 10 L MB DERMOFEEL G 10 L MB Polyglyceryl-4 caprate TEGOSOFT PC 41 MB EVONIK GOLDSCHMID T Polyglyceryl-2 stéarate NIKKOL DGMS NIKKO Caprylyl / capryl glucoside ORAMIXCG 110L SEPPIC PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-30 NIKKOL SG-DTD630 NIPPON SURFACTANT INDUSTRIES Disodium stearoyl glutamate AMISOFT HS 21P AJINOMOTO Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate ELDEW SL-205 AJINOMOTO C15-19alkane EMOGREEN L19 SEPPIC Caprylic / capric triglycéride DUB MCT 7030 / MB STEARINERIE DUBOIS Butyrospermum parkii (shea ) butter LIPEX 204 FFL AARHUSKARLSHAMN Ferulic acid ORYZA FERULIX ORYZA OIL & FAT CHE MICAL

[0116] Exemples inventifs 1-3 et exemples comparatifs 1-8

[0117] The compositions of Inventive Examples (EI) 1-3 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1-8 were prepared according to the amounts of components given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in % by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0118] [Table 2]

[0119] [T ables 2] Components El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 EC . 1 EC .2 EC .3 EC .4 EC .5 EC .6 EC .7 EC. 8 Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 Caprylyl / capryl glucoside 4.1 PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30 4.1 Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 4.1 Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate 4.1 Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate 4.1 Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 0.5 C15-19 Alkane 4.1 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 4.1 Butyros permum parkii (Shea) Butter 4.1 Ferulic Acid 7.3 Dipropylene Glycol QS100 Glycerin 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 Propanediol 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7

[0120]

[0121]

[0122]

[0123]

[0124]

[0125]

[0126]

[0127]

[0128]

[0129]

[0130] The compositions of inventive examples 1-3 are compositions of the present invention. The compositions of Comparative Examples 1-3 do not comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25°C selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (Ci6-C30) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and a combination thereof. The compositions of Comparative Examples 4 to 6 do not comprise at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations. The composition of Comparative Example 7 does not include oil. The composition of Comparative Example 8 comprises only 0.5% by weight of an oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preparation procedure: The above compositions were prepared as follows (taking the composition of Inventive Example 1 as an example): 1. introduction of polyols and cosmetic active ingredients (if applicable) with stirring at 200 rpm then heating to 85°C to obtain a clear liquid; 2. cooling to 60°C, to obtain a transparent to translucent viscous liquid; 3. introduction of non-ionic surfactant (if applicable) and oil (if applicable), with stirring at 650 rpm until uniform, then cooling to 30°C to obtain the composition. Assessment : 1. Particle size Each composition prepared in Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-8 was mixed with water by gentle mixing, and then the droplet size in the resulting mixtures was determined by Brookhaven DLS with a scattering angle (°) of 90 and a count rate of 355.1 kcps. The following criterion was used to evaluate the stability. If the particle size (volume average diameter) is 120 nm or larger, then no microemulsion is formed. If the particle size (volume average diameter) is greater than 10 nm and less than 120 nm, then a microemulsion is formed.

[0131] Table 3 indicates whether a microemulsion was formed or not.

[0132] [Table 3]

[0133] [Tables3] ELI Property El. 2 EL3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 EC. 5 EC. 6 EC. 7 EC. 8 Microemulsio n Yes Yes Yes No No No No No No No No

[0134] It can be seen that the compositions according to the present invention can form a microemulsion when mixed with water, while the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 to 8 cannot form a microemulsion when mixed with water. 2. Sensation

[0135] 4 skin experts evaluated the sticky feeling of inventive examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 8 in a blind test. To assess stickiness, the experts touched the skin after applying the test composition to it and rated the degree of stickiness of the skin with a score of “1-5” according to the following standard:

[0136] 1: means non-sticky,

[0137] 2: means slightly sticky,

[0138] 3: means moderately sticky;

[0139] 4: moderately to very sticky

[0140] 5: means very sticky.

[0141] The scores given by 4 experts were averaged and the results are presented in Table 4.

[0142] [Table 4]

[0143] [Tables4] Score (sticky feeling) El. 1 EL 2 EL 3 EC. 8 Average 1.5 2 2 4.5

[0144] It can be seen that the compositions according to the present invention exhibit much better results in terms of stickiness than the composition of Comparative Example 8.

Claims

Claims

1. Anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25°C chosen from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (Ci6-C30) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and one of their combinations; b) more than 0.5% by weight of at least one oil chosen from N-acyl amino acid esters, esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one C2-C6 polyol.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, preferably the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from mono-, di- and triesters of glycerin and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid including 8 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from polyglyceryl caprylate with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, even more preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is polyglyceryl-6 caprylate.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises at least one polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (Ci6-C30) ether, preferably the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl (Ci6-C24) ethers, more preferably chosen from PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-5 Ceteth-20, PPG-8 Ceteth-20, and a combination thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the composition comprises at least one alkyl polyglycoside, preferably the alkyl polyglycoside is chosen from those of formula (I): RO-Gx (I) in which - R is a C6-Ci2 alkyl group, - G is a moiety derived from a reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a glucose unit, and - x' represents the average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglycoside from 1 to 10, preferably, in formula (I): - R is a C8-Ci0 alkyl group, - G is chosen from the galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl and galactosyl units, - x' is from 1.4 to 3.

5. A composition according to claim 4, wherein the alkyl polyglycoside is selected from caprylyl / capryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside and a combination thereof.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises at least one N-acyl amino acid ester, preferably the N-acyl amino acid ester is chosen from those of formula (II): R1(CO)N(R2)CH(R3)(CH2)n(CO)OR4(II) in which: - n is an integer equal to 0, 1 or 2, - Ri represents a linear or branched C5-C2i alkyl or alkenyl, - R2 represents a hydrogen or a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl, - R3 represents a hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, or a linear or branched C3-C4 alkyl, - R4 represents a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl or a linear or branched C2-C10 alkenyl, or a sterol residue.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the composition comprises at least one ester of aliphatic polycarboxylic acid and aliphatic alcohol comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably the ester of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms is chosen from esters of C4-C22 aliphatic dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C6 aliphatic mono- or dihydroxy alcohols, more preferably chosen from diethyl sebacate; sebacate diisopropyl; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the oil is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 2% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from polyglyceryl caprylate with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) alkyl (Ci6-C24) ethers, C8-Cio alkyl polyglucosides, and one of their combinations; b) from 3% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one oil chosen from N-acyl amino acid esters, esters of C4-C22 aliphatic dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C6 aliphatic mono- or dihydroxy alcohols, and one of their combinations, and c) from 80% by weight to 94% by weight of at least one C2-C6 polyol chosen from glycerin, propanediol, dipropylene glycol, and one of their combinations.

10. Non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising: i) mixing the anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 and water or an aqueous composition to form a microemulsion; and ii) applying the microemulsion to the keratinous materials.