Process for removing color from previously colored hair
The method addresses the challenge of removing color from hair previously colored with permanent compositions by using a composition of alkyl or alkylene carbonate and fatty acid, along with a specialized hair clip, to effectively strip the colored sheath from the hair.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023014891
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
AI Technical Summary
There is a need for an effective method to remove color from hair previously colored using permanent hair coloring compositions, particularly those containing (poly)carbodiimide compounds and pigments, as existing methods are inadequate.
A method involving the application of a composition containing alkyl or alkylene carbonate and fatty acid to the hair, optionally accompanied by the use of a hair clip with interpenetrating branches to grip the hair without blocking it, effectively removes the color.
The method achieves efficient color removal from previously colored hair, improving upon existing methods by utilizing a specific combination of chemicals and a unique hair clip design to effectively strip the colored sheath from the hair.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Method for removing color from previously colored hair
[0001] The present invention relates to a method for removing color from hair previously colored using at least one hair coloring composition comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound; and at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof. Technical field
[0002] In the field of hair coloring, particularly human hair, it is already known to color hair using different techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or dye precursors for permanent colorings.
[0003] There are basically three types of hair coloring process: (a) so-called permanent coloring, the function of which is to bring about a significant change in the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation; b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not involve the oxidative condensation process and is resistant to 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing keratin fibers with dye compositions containing direct dyes; c) temporary coloring which results in a change in the natural color of the hair that lasts from one shampoo to the next and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “makeup” process.
[0004] Another coloring method is to use pigments. In fact, the use of pigment on the surface of the hair generally allows visible coloring to be obtained on dark hair since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber.
[0005] This coloring method can also make it possible to have coloring compositions having the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and various attacks that the hair may be subjected to such as brushing and / or rubbing without damaging the hair.
[0006] However, there are no methods for removing color from hair previously colored with pigments, using compositions for removing color, and possibly tools, effectively with this type of composition. temporary permanent coloring with shampoos.
[0007] There therefore remains a need to have a method for effectively removing color from hair that has been previously colored using said permanent coloring compositions in shampoos.
[0008] Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a method for removing color from hair with good efficiency. Statement of the invention
[0009] The present invention therefore relates to a method for removing color from hair previously colored using at least one hair coloring composition comprising: - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound; and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures, said method comprising: i) a step of applying to the hair at least one composition for removing the color comprising: - at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate; and
[0010] - at least one fatty acid;
[0011] then, possibly ii) a step of applying to said hair a clip comprising two branches A and B between which said hair passes, each branch A and B comprising a support part and an active part, said branches A and B being movable between a spaced apart position in which the active parts are at a distance from each other and a close position in which the active parts are close to each other, said active parts comprising an active face and an opposite face, said active face having bristles, in which, in a position close to the active parts, said hairs of branches A and B interpenetrate so as to grip said hairs without blocking them.
[0012] The combination of a color removal composition comprising at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate and at least one fatty acid and optionally a clip as described above makes it possible to remove the color from hair previously colored using the coloring composition as described above in an effective manner.
[0013] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.
[0014] The expression “at least one” means one or more.
[0015] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0016] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within non-illustrated variants.
[0017] For the purposes of the present invention and, unless otherwise indicated, - an “alkyl” radical designates a saturated linear or branched radical containing, for example, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - an “aminoalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group; - a “hydroxyalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group; - an “alkylene” radical denotes a divalent saturated C2-C4 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene; - a “cycloalkyl” or “alicycloalkyl” radical denotes a mono- or polycyclic, preferably monocyclic, saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, or norbornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl. it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group, - a “cycloalkylene” radical denotes a divalent cycloalkyl group with “cycloalkyl” as defined previously, preferably C3-Ci2; - an “aryl” radical is an unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 cycle with 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthlyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents phenyl; - an “arylene” radical is a divalent aryl radical with “aryl” as defined above, preferably arylene represents phenylene; - a “heterocyclic” radical means a mono- or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic hydrocarbon radical, comprising one or several heteroatoms, preferably from 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, comprising from 3 to 20 links, preferably between 5 and 10 links such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl; - a “heterocycloalkylene” radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with “heterocyclic” as defined previously; - an “aryloxy” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl” as defined previously; - an “alkoxy” radical denotes an alkyl-oxy radical with “alkyl” as defined previously; - an “acyloxy” radical denotes an ester radical RC(O)-O- with R an alkyl group as defined previously; - a “reactive” group is a group capable of forming a covalent bond with another group, identical or different, by chemical reaction.
[0018] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present application, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixture, are also understood to mean. (Poly)carbodiimide compound
[0019] As indicated previously, the hair coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound.
[0020] The composition may comprise at least two distinct (poly)carbodiimide compounds, present as a mixture in the composition.
[0021] The term “(poly)carbodiimide compound” means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide group(s), preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferably at least three carbodiimide groups, in particular the number of carbodiimide groups does not exceed 200, preferably 150, more preferably 100.
[0022] The term “carbodiimide group” means a divalent linear triatomic moiety of general formula - (N=C=N) -.
[0023] The (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) according to the invention may optionally comprise in their structure one or more reactive groups different from the carbodiimide groups, chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0024] The reactive group(s) other than the carbodiimide groups may be pendant or terminal. Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) comprise one or more terminal groups other than the carbodiimide groups, preferably one or more terminal groups chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0025] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): OO 1 ri I HLH in which: - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - R 1 and R 2 independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and by one or more groups chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl groups,hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane; , - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; and - A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:
[0026] According to another embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (!): (D, N-A4 in which: - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - Yiet Y2 represent, independently, a divalent organic radical selected from a saturated C1 to C36 aliphatic group or a C6 to C24 aromatic or alkylaromatic group, the aliphatic or aromatic group optionally comprising one or more non-pendant heteroatoms, such as the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom, the sulfur atom, or combinations thereof; - Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a reactive terminal group or an inert terminal group; - as an inert terminal group, Zi and Z2 may represent, independently, a saturated, linear or branched or cyclic aliphatic group, from C1 to C50, or an aromatic group from C6 to C[8, said aliphatic and aromatic groups optionally comprising from 1 to 10 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and their combinations, and the aliphatic or aromatic group may be partially or fully fluorinated; in this variant, Zi and Z2 comprise a CG linking group connecting Zi to Yi and Z2 to Y2, wherein the CG group may be a single covalent bond, a saturated CC bond, an unsaturated covalent CC bond, an amide group, an ester group, a carbonate group, a thioester group, an ether group, a urethane group, a thiourethane group or a urea group; - as a reactive terminal group, Zi and Z2 may be chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane; - Q represents an organopolymer or an organo-oligomer comprising repeating units of saturated, linear or branched or cyclic aliphatic groups, or of aromatic groups or of alkylaromatic groups, coupled by repeating carbonate, ester, ether, amide, urethane or urea bonds or their combinations; - A represents a divalent aliphatic, aromatic, alkylaromatic or linear, saturated, branched or cyclic radical having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally comprise one or more non-pendant heteroatoms, such as the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom, the sulfur atom, or their combinations, in the aliphatic chain or the aromatic chain; - r denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1; - m denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1; - m' denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1; - n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1, with m+ (m'*n ) > 2.
[0027] Preferably, Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a reactive terminal group, more preferably, Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norborenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane.
[0028] Such (poly)carbodiimide compounds are for example marketed by the company Stahl BV, under the name Permutex XR, or under the name RelcaLink10.or under the name Picassian XL and by the company Nisshinbo under the
[0029] name CARBODILITE with the series V-02, V-02-L2, SV-02, E-02, V-10, SW-12G, E-03A, E-04DG-T, E-05, V-04, V-02B, V-04PF, V-05. Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below: QA (II), G
[0030] in which: - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - R1 and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; - Li independently represents a divalent C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-, in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s). The term "hydrocarbon radical" means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical having from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon radical is a linear and saturated radical.
[0031] The hydrocarbon radical may comprise one or more cyclic groups.
[0032] The hydrocarbon radical may be interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), in particular chosen from O, S or N and / or substituted by one or more cation(s), anion(s), or zwitterion(s) or cationic group(s) such as ammonium, anionic group(s) such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic group(s), and / or comprising a metal ion which may be incorporated in the form of a salt.
[0033] The term "heteroatom(s)" means an oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atom, as well as halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atoms.
[0034] Preferably, X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom.
[0035] Preferably, R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from dialkylamino alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.
[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, R1 and R2 are independently chosen from the following groups (i) to (iv): (i) the compound of formula (III) following: R7-OC(O)-C(R8)(H)- (III), wherein R7 represents a C1-C3 alkyl group, and R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C3 alkyl group, preferably R7 is methyl and R8 is a hydrogen atom or methyl. (ii) the compound of formula (IV) following: R9-[0-CH2-C(H)(Rio)]p- (IV), wherein R9 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; preferably, R9 is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is a hydrogen atom or methyl and p is 1. (iii) the compound of formula (V) following: (R11)2N-CH2-C(H)(R12)- (V), wherein Rn represents a Cr-C4 alkyl group and Rn represents a hydrogen atom or a Cr-C4 alkyl group; preferably Ru is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[2 is a hydrogen atom or methyl. (iv) the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R[3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; preferably Rn is methyl, ethyl or butyl and Ru is hydrogen or methyl.
[0037] Preferably, R1 and R2 independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0038] According to an alternative embodiment, R1 and R2 are different and one of the radicals R1 or R2 represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical R1 or R2 represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.
[0039] Preferably, in formula (IV), R9 is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is hydrogen or methyl and p is 1.
[0040] Preferably, in formula (VI), Rn is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[4 is hydrogen or methyl and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0041] According to another alternative embodiment, R1 and R2 are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0042] Preferably, n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0043] Preferably, z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0044] Preferably, w is equal to 1.
[0045] Preferably, w is equal to 1, n+z denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10.
[0046] Preferably, Li is chosen from a divalent C 1 -C 10 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical. -Ci8 such as methylene, ethylene, and propylene, a C3-Cn cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, and cyclohexylene, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene, and furanylene, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.
[0047] For example, Li may be selected from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,12-dodecane diisocyanate, norbornane diisocyanate, 2,4-bis-(8-isocyanateoctyl)-1,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'-dicylclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthalene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof.
[0048] Preferably, Li is chosen from a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group and mixtures thereof, such as the compounds of formula (VII) below:
[0049] Preferably, L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane corresponding to the following formula (VIII):
[0050] According to another embodiment, when L1 is a C6-C14 arylene group, Li is not the m-tetramethylxylylene radical represented by the following formula (IX): (IX).
[0051] As indicated previously, E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-IC-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); and - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0052] Preferably, R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-CM arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and mixtures thereof.
[0053] More preferably, R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0054] Preferably, when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0055] Preferably, R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Preferably, E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0057] More preferably, E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0058] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from alpha-methylstyryl-isocyanates of the following formula (X): (X), wherein R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and, n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 100.
[0059] In this embodiment, the term “alkyl group” is as defined above.
[0060] In this embodiment, the term “cycloalkyl group” is as defined above.
[0061] In this embodiment, n can denote an integer ranging from 2 to 50, preferably from 3 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 10.
[0062] According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XI): --(XI), wherein R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0063] “Alkyl group”, “cycloalkyl group” and “aryl group” are as defined above.
[0064] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently selected from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, more preferably, the compound of formula (VI) as described above in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30 - n and z, when present, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w equal to 1; - Li, when present, is chosen from a divalent C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical; - A, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent C1-C18, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical; - E, when present, independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5, when present, is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6, when present, is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0065] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently selected from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-Ci2, or a arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0066] More preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0067] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodihnide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a Cr-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a Cr-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a Cr-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0068] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodihnide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI) in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and - E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0069] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XII): in which L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0070] The total quantity of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) present in the com coloring position, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8%, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition. Coloring agent
[0071] As indicated previously, the hair coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises one or more coloring agent(s) chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0072] Preferably, the hair coloring composition comprises one or more pigments.
[0073] By "pigment" is meant all pigments providing color to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
[0074] The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopedia of chemical technology and in the Ullmann encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.
[0075] The hair coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more direct dye(s).
[0076] By "direct dye" we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber.
[0077] They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.
[0078] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
[0079] The coloring agent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
[0080] The pigment(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.
[0081] The direct dye(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.
[0082] Polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids
[0083] The hair coloring composition may further comprise at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably at least one acrylic polymer.
[0084] Preferably, the hair coloring composition C comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably at least one acrylic polymer.
[0085] Preferably, the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably acrylic polymers, are in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles, more preferably in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.
[0086] Thus, preferably, the coloring composition comprises at least one acrylic polymer in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles.
[0087] The dispersion(s) may be simple dispersions in the aqueous medium of the cosmetic composition. As a particular case of dispersions, mention may be made of latexes.
[0088] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds called monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice and preferably at least 3 times.
[0089] By "film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on the hair, and preferably a cohesive film.
[0090] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "acrylic polymer" means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide.
[0091] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) according to the invention comprise one or more units derived from the following monomers: (a) (meth)acrylic acid; and b) C1 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably C1 to C20, even better C1 to C10, and even more particularly C1 to C4.
[0092] Advantageously, the total content of the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably of the acrylic polymer(s), ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.
[0093] Furthermore, the coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent.
[0094] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-carboxylic agent” means an agent which does not comprise a carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COO) function.
[0095] Advantageously, the total content of the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.
[0096] The coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention may also further comprise at least one associative polymer different from said polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids and said non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent.
[0097] Advantageously, the total content of said associative polymer(s) ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.
[0098] The coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention may also further comprise any adjuvant or additive usually used.
[0099] The hair coloring composition may be in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / W / O), in the form of a cream, mousse, stick, dispersion of vesicles in particular of ionic or non-ionic lipids, two-phase or multi-phase lotion.
[0100] The application of the coloring composition can be followed by the application of a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group.
[0101] The term “carboxylic group” means a COOH or COO functional group, the counterion of the COO group being able to be chosen from alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, quaternary ammoniums.
[0102] The silicones that can be used can be soluble or insoluble in composition D; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
[0103] Silicones are notably described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.
[0104] Preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXVII): (XXVII) in which: - RI independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; a hydroxy group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - R2 independently represents a group R4-COOM with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a pyrrolidone radical comprising a carboxylic group COOH or a group Ra-(ORb)x-COOM with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;and M representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; ; - R3 independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; a hydroxy group; an R4-COOM group with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms or a group Ra-(ORb)x -COOM with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;and M representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R'; identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - p denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000; it being understood that at least one of the radicals R2 and / or R3 comprises a carboxylic group COOH or COOM with M representing an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0105] In particular, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group may be chosen from the organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXVIII): (XXVIII), Rt If—R4—COOM To the in which: - RI independently represents a linear or branched alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably methyl; - R4 independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures; or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; - M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
[0106] - organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXIX):
[0107] (XXIX), in which: - RI independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably a methyl; - R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures; or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; - M represents a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXX): in which: - RI independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably methyl; - R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures; or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with Ra re having a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R b representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; - R3 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
[0108] - organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXXI): in which: - R8 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl; - m denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - n designated an integer ranging from 1 to 1000. -and their mixtures.
[0109] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVIII), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) with a carboxy terminal function such as the compounds sold by the company Momentive under the trade name SILFORM INX (INCI name: Bis-Carboxydecyl dimethicone).
[0110] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXIX), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) with a carboxy pendant function such as the compounds sold by the company Shin Etsu under the trade name X-22-3701E.
[0111] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXX), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) with a carboxy terminal function such as the compounds sold by the company Shin Etsu under the trade name X-22-3710.
[0112] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXXI), mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Grant Industries under the trade name Grandsil SiW-PCA-10 (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) PCA Dimethicone (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Decyl Glucoside).
[0113] The silicone compounds comprising a carboxylic group may, for example, correspond to the compounds described in patent application EPI86507 in the name of Chisso Corporation introduced here by reference.
[0114] Preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from organopolysiloxane of formula (XXVIII), organopolysiloxane of formula (XXIX) and mixtures thereof.
[0115] More preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organopolysiloxanes of formula (XXVIII) below: (XXVIII), ri r pt n ri f^OOC --- R4—SI -.-— OL™ Si--o S i R4—COQ M Ri Rl — _I n in which: - RI independently represents a linear or branched alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably methyl; - R4 independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures; or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; - M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000.
[0116] Advantageously, the total quantity of silicone compound(s) comprising at least a carboxylic group ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition D. Oils
[0117] Composition D may comprise one or more oil(s) different from the silicone compounds comprising a carboxylic group previously described.
[0118] Preferably, composition D comprises one or more oil(s). More preferably, composition D comprises one or more oil(s) chosen from alkanes.
[0119] By “oil” is meant a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa).
[0120] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0121] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More precisely, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm2 / min, inclusive (see protocol for measuring the evaporation rate indicated in the text below).
[0122] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the hair keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More precisely, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm2 / min (see protocol for measuring the evaporation rate indicated in the text below).
[0123] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more oil(s) chosen from C6-C16 alkanes and / or their mixtures.
[0124] As regards C6-Ci6 alkanes, the latter can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic.
[0125] Mention may in particular be made of branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, and their mixtures.
[0126] Mention may also be made of linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
[0127] As an example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), -pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane. (C13) described in example 1 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis Company.
[0128] Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.
[0129] As an example of alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO2008 / 155059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.
[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises isododecane. Such a compound is for example isododecane sold under the reference ISO-DODECANE by INEOS.
[0131] Preferably, composition D comprises one or more oil(s) chosen from C8-C16 alkanes, more preferably from isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane and / or their mixtures.
[0132] More preferably, composition D comprises isododecane.
[0133] Composition D may comprise one or more oil(s) different from the silicone compounds comprising a carboxylic group present in a total amount of between 30% and 99% by weight, preferably between 50% and 99% by weight, better still between 70% and 99% by weight relative to the total weight of composition D.
[0134] Composition D may comprise at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described previously.
[0135] The color removal method according to the invention is also effective in the context of coloring hair using the coloring composition described above followed by post-treatment with composition D described previously. Composition to remove color
[0136] As indicated above, the method for removing color from hair comprises the application to said hair having been previously colored using at least one hair coloring composition as defined above, of at least one composition for removing color comprising at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate and at least one fatty acid.
[0137] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring composition is followed by the application of composition D.
[0138] This composition for removing color consists of creating a chemical action intended to alter the integrity of the colored sheath formed around the hair in order to lead to the elimination of this colored sheath from said hair. Alkyl or alkylene carbonate
[0139] By “alkyl carbonate” is meant an alkyl or dialkyl carbonate.
[0140] Preferably, the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is a C1-C30, preferably C1-C6, alkyl or C1-C30, preferably C1-C6, alkylene carbonate.
[0141] More preferably, the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is chosen from alkylene carbonates, better still from propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate and their mixtures.
[0142] In a particularly preferred manner, the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is chosen from propylene carbonate.
[0143] Advantageously, the total content of alkyl or alkylene carbonate ranges from 20 to 60% by weight, preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 35 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color. Fatty acid
[0144] By "fatty acid" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid, in particular an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0145] Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0146] More preferably, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds of structure RC(O)OH in which R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 5 to 39 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, preferentially from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, better still from 13 to 19 carbon atoms.
[0147] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in the composition are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0148] The fatty acids may be chosen from liquid fatty acids, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
[0149] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105Pa).
[0150] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are in particular chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachydic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0151] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid fatty acid” means a fatty acid having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105Pa).
[0152] The liquid fatty acid(s) may be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.
[0153] Preferably, the fatty acid(s) present in the composition for removing the color are chosen from fatty acids comprising at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0154] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid(s) present in the composition for removing the color are chosen from liquid fatty acids, preferably chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid and their mixtures, more preferably oleic acid.
[0155] The fatty acid(s), preferably liquid, are generally present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20%, preferentially from 1 to 15%, better still from 4 to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color. Polyol
[0156] The composition for removing color used in the context of the method according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol.
[0157] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0158] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
[0159] The color removing composition may comprise one or more polyols selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof.
[0160] Particularly preferably, the polyol is propylene glycol.
[0161] Advantageously, the polyol content, when present, ranges from 20 to 70% by weight, preferably from 30 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 45 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
[0162] The composition for removing the color used in the process according to the invention may comprise water.
[0163] According to another particular embodiment, the composition for removing the color is free of water.
[0164] Preferably, the color removing composition is water-free.
[0165] Furthermore, the additives as mentioned above may be included in the composition for removing the color used in the context of the process according to the invention.
[0166] The composition for removing the color used in the context of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more non-carboxylic anionic thickeners as described above, in a content preferably ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hair clip
[0167] As indicated previously, the method according to the invention for removing color from hair may comprise the application to said hair previously colored using the coloring composition as described previously and bleached using the composition for removing color, of a clip comprising two branches A and B between which said hair passes.
[0168] Preferably, the method for removing the color according to the invention comprises the application to the hair of a clip comprising two branches A and B between which said hair passes.
[0169] The hair clip, as described above, may have a hinge axis (Z) around which the branches A and B are hinged.
[0170] According to a preferred embodiment, the branches A and B are articulated around the articulation axis (Z) and can move angularly closer to each other.
[0171] Each branch A and B comprises a support part and an active part.
[0172] The support part corresponds to the part of the clamp that the user grips. The active part corresponds to the part in contact with the hair.
[0173] Said branches A and B are movable between a spaced apart position in which the active parts are at a distance from each other and a close position in which the active parts are close to each other.
[0174] According to a preferred embodiment, the active parts of branches A and B are arranged opposite each other.
[0175] According to a preferred embodiment, the branches A and B are articulated around the articulation axis (Z) and can move angularly closer to each other so that the active parts of the branches A and B are in contact with each other.
[0176] When the active parts of branches A and B are in contact, the hair is trapped between the active parts of branches A and B.
[0177] Said active parts of branches A and B may comprise an active face and an opposite face, said active face having bristles.
[0178] Said hairs can be arranged in the form of tufts of hairs.
[0179] Between each tuft of hair, we can find free spaces.
[0180] Preferably, the active faces of branches A and B have tufts of hairs and free spaces.
[0181] The tufts of hair are generally made of a natural material, such as natural bristles, or animal hair, such as squirrel, boar or goat hair.
[0182] The use of natural materials to produce such tweezers considerably increases their manufacturing costs, so that tweezers have been developed in which the tufts of hair are made from synthetic hairs substantially reproducing the mechanical properties of tweezers whose tuft of hair is made with natural hairs.
[0183] Each of the active parts of branches A and B may comprise rows of tufts of hairs.
[0184] Between each row of tufts of hair, we can find free spaces.
[0185] Preferably, the active faces of branches A and B have rows of tufts of hairs separated by free spaces.
[0186] According to a preferred embodiment, the rows of tufts of bristles of the active parts are arranged parallel to each other.
[0187] In this embodiment, each row of tufts of hair is separated by free spaces.
[0188] The hair may be arranged between the tufts of hair so as to form waves.
[0189] In the close position of the active parts, said hairs of branches A and B interpenetrate so as to grip said hair without blocking them.
[0190] Preferably, in a position close to the active parts of branches A and B, the rows of tufts of hairs of branch A interpenetrate with the rows of tufts of hairs of branch B so as to enclose said hair without blocking it.
[0191] In the close position of branches A and B, the clamp according to the invention has the capacity to move along the hair, i.e. from the root to the tip of the hair, without blocking it.
[0192] By moving the clamp according to the invention along the hair while maintaining the close position of branches A and B, said tufts of hair of branches A and B exert a friction force on the colored then bleached hair in order to remove the remains of the colored sheathing present on said hair.
[0193] The friction force exerted on the hair is between 5 N and 20 N.
[0194] The invention may be better understood by reading the detailed description which follows, and by referring to the appended drawings, in which: - [Fig.l] represents a schematic elevation view of an example of a hair clip produced in accordance with the invention; - [Fig.2] represents in isolation the active faces of the active parts of branches A and B of [Fig.l], placed side by side.
[0195] [Fig.l] shows a hair clip 1, as described above. The clip 1 comprises two branches A and B between which the said hair passes.
[0196] The branches A and B are articulated around an articulation axis (Z) and can move angularly closer to each other, in particular by means of one or more springs (not shown).
[0197] The branches A and B are capable of closing on the hair under the impulse of an external force, in order to move along said hair.
[0198] Each branch A and B comprises a support part 2 and an active part 3.
[0199] The active parts 3 of branches A and B can be arranged opposite each other.
[0200] The two branches A and B can be articulated around the articulation axis (Z) and can move angularly closer to each other so that the active parts 3 of branches A and B are in contact with each other.
[0201] Said active parts 3 of branches A and B comprise an active face 4 and an opposite face 5.
[0202] The active faces 4 of the branches A and B have bristles 6. Preferably, the opposite faces of the branches A and B do not have bristles.
[0203] The hairs can be grouped into tufts of hairs 6.
[0204] [Fig.2] shows the active faces 4 of the active parts 3 of branches A and B side by side.
[0205] The active faces of branches A and B have bristles 6, said bristles being organized in the form of tufts of bristles 6.
[0206] Between each tuft of hairs 6, there may be free spaces 8.
[0207] The active faces of branches A and B may comprise rows 7 of tufts of hair 6.
[0208] Between each row 7 of tufts of hairs 6, there may be free spaces 8.
[0209] The rows 7 of tufts of hairs 6 may be parallel to each other.
[0210] Thus, the hair can be arranged between the tufts of hair so as to form ripples.
[0211] The rows 7 of tufts of hairs 6 of the active face 4 of the branch A are comple- supplementary rows 7 of tufts of hairs 6 of the active face 4 of branch B.
[0212] To use the clip, the user can place a lock of hair between the branches A and B at their active parts when the clip is in the separated position (i.e. the active parts 3 are at a distance from each other).
[0213] Then, the user applies a pressure force on the clamp so as to place the clamp in a close position (i.e. the active parts are brought closer to each other).
[0214] In the close position of the active parts, said bristles of branches A and B interpenetrate so as to grip said hair without blocking it.
[0215] The user can slide the clamp along the strand, from the root to the tip of the strand, while maintaining a certain pressure force.
[0216] Repeated passage of the clamp along the strands of hair can be performed.
[0217] Such a clamp is for example sold under the reference Brosse Pince Ceramik Defrisage from the company Anself. Protocol
[0218] The hair coloring composition described above can be used on dry or wet hair, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0219] Preferably, a washing, rinsing, wringing or drying step is carried out after applying the coloring composition to the hair.
[0220] The application of the hair coloring composition to the hair is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
[0221] According to a preferred embodiment, the application of the hair coloring composition to the hair is carried out at a temperature of between 15 and 50°C, more preferably between 20 and 40°C.
[0222] After applying the coloring composition to the hair, it is possible to wait between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferably between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before, for example, applying composition D to the hair or, for example, a washing, rinsing, wringing or drying step.
[0223] Preferably, there is no exposure time after applying the coloring composition to the hair.
[0224] After applying the coloring composition, the fibers may be left to dry or dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0225] The method according to the invention can thus comprise a step of applying heat to the hair using a heating tool.
[0226] The heat application step of the method of the invention can be implemented using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a climazon,
[0227] Preferably, the heat application step of the method of the invention is carried out using a hair dryer.
[0228] When the method of the invention implements a step of applying heat to the hair, the step of applying heat to the hair takes place after the application of the hair coloring composition to the hair.
[0229] During the step of applying heat to the hair, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, or passing the fingers through.
[0230] When the step of applying heat to the hair is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C.
[0231] When the step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibers is carried out using a straightening iron, the temperature is preferably between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0232] In a particular variant, the method of the invention implements a step (bl) of applying heat using a helmet, a hair dryer or a climazon, preferably a hair dryer and a step (b2) of applying heat using a straightening or curling iron, preferably a straightening iron.
[0233] Step (bl) can be carried out before step (b2).
[0234] During step (bl), also called the drying step, the hair may be dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 40°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 45°C and less than 110°C.
[0235] Preferably, if the hair is dried, it is dried, in addition to a heat supply, with a flow of air. This flow of air during drying makes it possible to improve the individualization of the sheathing.
[0236] During drying, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, passing the fingers.
[0237] During step (b2), the passage of the straightening or curling iron, preferably the straightening iron, can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 110 to 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0238] After the heating step, a shaping step can be carried out with, for example, a hair straightener, the temperature for the shaping step is between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0239] Preferably, the step of applying the coloring composition to the hair is repeated several times.
[0240] The method of the invention is a method for removing color from hair previously colored using a coloring composition as described above, in particular a hair coloring composition comprising: - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described previously; - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, and optionally at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably at least one acrylic polymer.
[0241] The time between the step of applying the hair coloring composition and the step of applying the composition for removing the color can vary from a few minutes to several days, for example several tens of days. Preferably, the time between the step of applying the hair coloring composition and the step of applying the composition for removing the color varies from 1 hour to 30 days, more preferably at least 1 day, preferably at least 15 days.
[0242] The composition for removing color from fibers is generally preferably left on for 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 40 minutes, more preferably 1 to 30 minutes, better still 2 to 20 minutes.
[0243] According to a particular embodiment, the method according to the invention further comprises a step of kneading the hair, after applying the composition to remove the color. This kneading step can be carried out with the fingers or with a tool which assists in kneading.
[0244] During this kneading step, a particular tool, such as an exfoliating glove, may be used.
[0245] Preferably, during a kneading step, at least 5 finger passes are made along the wick. The duration of all 5 passes can vary from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, for example, for 1g of wick.
[0246] The step of kneading the hair can be repeated several times, for example 2 times, possibly with an intermediate exposure time.
[0247] The step of applying the composition to remove the color can be repeated several times, possibly with an intermediate rinse.
[0248] The optional kneading step can then be followed by a hair washing step, for example using shampoo. The hair can then be kneaded, rinsed and dried.
[0249] According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises a step of applying to the hair a clip as described previously after applying to the hair the composition for removing the color.
[0250] Preferably, there is no step of washing, rinsing, wringing or drying the hair between the application of the composition for removing the color and the application of the clip as described above.
[0251] Following the application of a composition for removing the color as described above, the method according to the invention comprises the application to said hair of a clamp as described previously.
[0252] Preferably, the clamp as described above is applied from the root to the tip of the hair keratin fibers.
[0253] Preferably, from 10 to 150 passes of the clip as described above are applied along the hair, more preferably, from 10 to 100 passes of the clip as described above are applied along the hair.
[0254] The clip as described above can be applied to wet or dry hair.
[0255] Preferably, the clip as described above is applied to wet hair. Preferably, the hair is wetted with the composition to remove the color, then after a pause time of 1 to 30 min, preferably 1 to 15 min, the clip is applied to the hair.
[0256] The step of applying the clip as described above can then be followed by a step of washing the hair, for example using a shampoo. The hair can then be kneaded, rinsed and dried.
[0257] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a step of washing the hair, for example using a shampoo, following the application of the clip to the hair.
[0258] Preferably, the invention is a method of treating hair comprising: - a step of coloring the hair by applying a composition comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above, at least one pigment and at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids as defined above to obtain colored hair, and - a step of removing the coloring from said colored hair by applying a composition for removing the color comprising at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate and at least one fatty acid as defined previously, and
[0259] - optionally followed by a step of treating the hair using a clamp (1) as defined previously.
[0260] Preferably, the invention is a method for treating hair comprising in particular: i) a step of coloring the hair by applying to the hair the hair coloring composition as described above, then ii) optionally a time for leaving said coloring composition on the fibers of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably of 1 to 20 minutes; then iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing or drying said hair, then iv) a color removal step comprising application to pre-treated hair lably colored in step (i) of the composition to remove the color as described above, v) optionally a step of kneading the hair, preferably at the hair roots, vi) optionally a time for leaving said coloring composition on the fibers of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably of 1 to 20 minutes; then (vii) applying one or more strokes of a clip as described above to the hair, then (viii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing or drying the hair. Multi-compartment device (kit)
[0261] The present invention also relates to a device for coloring and removing color from hair comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A comprising: at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described above; - in a second compartment, a composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, as described previously, and optionally at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably at least one acrylic polymer, as described previously; - in a third compartment, a composition for removing hair color comprising at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate as described above and at least one fatty acid as described above; and optionally - a clip as described above.
[0262] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES
[0263] The (poly)carbodiimide(s) of the invention are accessible by the synthesis methods known to those skilled in the art from commercial products or reagents which can be synthesized according to chemical reactions also known to those skilled in the art. Examples include the work Sciences of Synthesis - Houben - Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or the American patent US 4,284,730 or the Canadian application CA 2,509,861.
[0264] More particularly the process for preparing (poly)carbodiimides of the invention uses during a first step a diisocyanate reagent (1): O=C=N-Li-N=C=O (1), formula (1) in which Li is as defined above which reacts in the presence of a carboimidation catalyst (2) such as those described in US 4,284,730 in particular phosphorus catalysts particularly chosen from phospholene oxides and phospholene sulfoxides, diaza and oxazaphospholanes, preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen or Argon), and in particular in a polar solvent, preferably aprotic, such as THF, glyme, diglyme, 1,4-dioxane, and DMF, at a temperature between room temperature and solvent reflux, preferably around 140°C; to yield the carbodiimide diisocyanate compound (3): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)nN=C=O (3), formula (3) in which Li and n are as defined above. Halogenated benzoyl such as benzoyl chloride may be added to deactivate the catalyst.
[0265] To obtain “symmetrical” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined above, to yield the “symmetrical” compound according to the invention (4): [Ri-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)]2-E (4), formula (4) in which Rb Xb Lh n, and E are as defined previously. According to a variant to obtain compound (4) from (3) it is possible to first add 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent, then 1 eq. of Ri-XrH reagent.
[0266] To obtain “dissymmetric” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH then 1 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined previously, to lead to compound (5): R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EH (5), formula (5) in which Rb Xb Lh n, and E are as defined previously.
[0267] According to a variant for obtaining compound (5) from (3) it is possible to first add 1 eq. of reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of reagent HEH.
[0268] In a third step, compound (5) reacts with 1 eq. of compound (6) R2-X2-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (6), said compound (6) is prepared beforehand from compound (3'): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)ZN=C=O (3'), formula (3') in which Li and z are as defined previously which reacts with 1 eq of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H with Lb R2, X2, and z as defined previously, to lead to the asymmetric compound (7): R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EC(O)-NH-L1--(N=C=N-L1)z-NH-C(O) -X2-R2 (7), Formula (7) in which Rb Xb Lb R2, X2, n, z and E are as defined previously.
[0269] It is also possible to react 1 molar equivalent of compound O=C=N-Li -(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (3') with 1 / w molar equivalent of HEH, then 1 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H to lead to compound (8): H-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH-C(O)-X2-R2(8), formula (8) in which LH R2, X2, z and E are as defined previously, and w is an integer between 1 and 3, more preferably w = 1.
[0270] This latter compound (8) can then react with 1 eq of compound (4'): Ri-Xi-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)nN=C=O (4'), (said compound (4') can be synthesized by reaction of 0.5 eq. of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH with 1 equivalent of compound (3)), to lead to the (poly)carbodihnide of the invention (9): Ri-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH C(O)-X2-R2 (9), formula (9) in which Lb Rb Xb R2, X2, n, z, w, and E are as defined previously.
[0271] The (poly)carbodiimide compounds as well as all the reaction intermediates and reagents can be purified with conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and water-immiscible organic solvent, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration, and / or chromatography.
[0272] Example 1: Process for the synthesis of the compound (poly)carbodiimide
[0273] In a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with a thermometer, a stirrer and a reflux tube, 50 g of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate and 0.5 g of 4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-l-phenyl-lH-phosphole 1-oxide were introduced with stirring.
[0274] The reaction medium was heated to 140°C under nitrogen for 4 hours, monitoring the reaction by infrared spectroscopy through the absorption of the isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm1, then cooled to 120°C.
[0275] A mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol is introduced into the reaction medium with stirring. The temperature of 120°C is maintained until the isocyanate functions have completely disappeared, monitored by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm1, then cooled to room temperature.
[0276] After cooling to room temperature, the reaction medium is poured dropwise with vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85 g of distilled water to yield the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid. Example 2
[0277] The compositions as described below were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g, unless otherwise stated. Coloring composition:
[0278] [Tableauxl] Composition A Polycarbodiimide (1) 24 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (2) 2 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Trideceth-10 (3) 5 Ethanol 20 Water Qsp 100
[0279] (1) synthesized according to the synthesis method described in example 1 (at 40% material active in water),
[0280] (2) sold by the company SEPPIC under the name SEPINOV EMT10 (at 90% of active ingredient),
[0281] (3) sold by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL ADM LOG 1 (at 15% active ingredient).
[0282] [Tables2] Composition B Acrylates copolymer (4) 40 Acrylates / Steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (5) 3 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Trideceth-10 (3) 5 Ethanol 3,8 Mica and red iron oxide (CI77491) 12 Preservative(s) qs Water Qsp 100
[0283] (4) sold by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient),
[0284] (5) sold by the company ROHM and HAAS under the trade name ACULYN 22® (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer at 30% active ingredient).
[0285] Composition A is mixed with composition B at a mass ratio of 50 / 50 to obtain coloring composition C.
[0286] Then, composition D as described below was prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g.
[0287] [Tables 3] Composition D Bis-carboxydecyl Dimethicone (6) 2 Isododecane qsp 100
[0288] (6) sold by the company Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silform INX commercial. Composition to remove the color:
[0289] In parallel, a composition for removing the color was prepared and is described in the following table: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g.
[0290] [Tables4] Composition El (Invention) Propylene carbonate 40 Acrylates / C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.2 Oleic acid 7 Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (7) 0.5 Propylene glycol Qsp 100
[0291] (7) sold by the company Clariant under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS. Hair strand coloring protocol:
[0292] The coloring composition C is applied using a small brush to strands of 90% white natural dry hair, at a rate of 0.8g of composition per gram of strand. The strands of hair are then detangled and dried with a hairdryer at medium heat and power.
[0293] Then, composition D is applied to said locks of hair previously treated with composition C, at a rate of 0.5g of composition per gram of lock.
[0294] The strands of hair are then detangled and dried using a hair dryer at medium heat.
[0295] The locks of hair are then subjected to an accelerated aging process by placing them in an oven at a temperature of 60°C for 48 hours before applying the composition to remove the color.
[0296] This accelerated aging step makes it possible to simulate the natural aging of the colored coating on hair in vivo, this aging corresponds to 2 weeks at room temperature in vivo. This protocol is called protocol 1.
[0297] According to another example, the locks are treated as described above but without application of composition D. This protocol is called protocol 2. Protocol for removing color:
[0298] Different methods for removing the color from the strands colored with composition C + D were carried out: - a method 1 in which the composition for removing the color El is applied to the locks of hair colored according to protocol 1 or protocol 2;
[0299] - a method 2 in which the composition for removing the color El is applied to the strands of hair colored according to protocol 1 or protocol 2, followed by the application of the clip as described above on the strands of hair (Ceramik Defrisage Clip Brush from the company Anself).
[0300] In method 1, the composition for removing the color El is applied to a lock of colored hair, using the finger, at a rate of 2g of composition per g of lock.
[0301] The strand is then combed 6 times using a comb in order to distribute the composition El well over the strand of hair.
[0302] The lock of hair is left for 1 min at room temperature and then the shampooing protocol described below is carried out.
[0303] In method 2, the composition for removing the color El is applied to a lock of colored hair, using the finger, at a rate of 2g of composition per g of lock.
[0304] The strand is then combed 6 times using a comb in order to distribute the composition El well over the strand of hair.
[0305] The lock of hair is then pinched between branches A and B of the clamp according to the invention and 20 passes of the clamp are then made along the lock of hair, from the root to the tip.
[0306] The shampooing protocol described below is then carried out. Shampoo protocol
[0307] A standard shampoo (L'Oréal Paris Elsève) is applied evenly to the colored strands at a rate of 0.4g of standard shampoo per gram of strands, gently kneading the strands of hair lengthwise (6 strokes) for 15 seconds, from root to tip.
[0308] The strands of hair are combed, moistened under water at 35°C before being passed between the fingers 5 times for 5 seconds. The strands of hair are then wrung out between two fingers.
[0309] The strands of hair are then placed in a watch glass and left to rest for 1 minute.
[0310] Then, the strands of hair are rinsed with water by passing the strand between the fingers (15 passes). The strands of hair are then wrung out between two fingers before the next shampoo.
[0311] The strands of hair are combed and dried with a hairdryer. Results
[0312] The color persistence of the strands was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0313] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the color intensity, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0314] The persistence of the coloration is evaluated by the color difference AE between the colored strands before the color removal step, then after having undergone the protocol for removing the color from the previously colored hair strands described above. The lower the value of AE, the more persistent the color is in the protocol for removing the color from the previously colored hair strands described above.
[0315] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation:
[0316] [Math.l] aC -
[0317] In this equation, L*a*b* represent the values measured after coloring the hair and after the color removal step, and L0*a0*b0* represent the values measured after coloring the hair but before the color removal step.
[0318] [Tables5] Protocols L* a* b* AE Colored control strands 31.4 26.5 20.7 - Procedure 1 to remove the color / Protocol 1 / Comp Color removal El (Inv) 35.8 23.3 17.8 6.2 Procedure 2 to remove the color / Protocol 1 / Comp Color removal El (Inv) 54.3 5.2 12.3 32.4
[0319] It is therefore found that the method for removing color from colored hair according to the invention has a power to remove color from the hair, this color removal being further substantially improved when the composition comprising the alkylene carbonate and the fatty acid is combined with the use of the forceps.
[0320] This process remained effective in the presence of a post-treatment, by the application of composition D, on the coloring composition, post-treatment present to reinforce the resistance of the color between the application of the color and the removal of this color at the time desired by the user. Example 3
[0321] In this example, the coloring composition C described above is applied using a small brush to strands of 90% white natural dry hair, at a rate of 0.8g of composition per gram of strand. The strands of hair are then detangled and dried with a hair dryer at medium heat and power.
[0322] In this example, there is no application of composition D (Protocol 2).
[0323] The locks thus colored are treated according to the protocol described in example 2. The hair strands are subjected to an accelerated aging process by placing them in an oven at a temperature of 60°C for 48 hours before applying the composition to remove the color.
[0324] This accelerated aging step makes it possible to simulate the natural aging of the colored coating on the hair in vivo, this aging corresponds to 2 weeks at room temperature in vivo.
[0325] The hair color is then removed according to the protocol described in Example 2 / Method 2 (application of the color removal composition followed by the passage of the tweezers) using the following comparative composition RI or using the composition E1 as described previously (invention).
[0326] [Tableauxô] RI Composition (comparative) Propylene carbonate 40 Acrylates / C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.2 Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (7) 0.5 Propylene glycol Qsp 100
[0327] [Tables?] Protocols L* a* b* AE Colored control strands 34.5 27.9 21.1 - Procedure 2 for removing color / Protocol 2 / Comp Color removal El (Inv) 59.0 4.4 12.3 4.4 Procedure 2 for removing color / Protocol 2 Comp Color removal RI (comparative) 51.8 8.3 12.3 11.7
[0328] It is found that the method for removing color from colored hair according to the invention has a substantial power of removing color from the hair with the color removing composition according to the invention and the use of the tweezers.
[0329] Thus, the method for removing color from hair according to the invention makes it possible to obtain effective removal of the color from a lock of hair having been previously colored using a hair coloring composition comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound and at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
Claims
Claims
1. A method for removing color from hair previously colored using at least one hair coloring composition comprising: - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound; and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof; said method comprising: i) a step of applying to the hair at least one composition for removing color comprising: - at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate; and - at least one fatty acid.
2. Method according to claim 1 comprising an additional step ii), after step i), which comprises ii) applying to the hair a clip (1) comprising two branches A and B between which the hair passes, each branch A and B comprising a support part (2) and an active part (3), said branches A and B being movable between a spaced apart position in which the active parts (3) are at a distance from each other and a close position in which the active parts (3) are close to each other, said active parts (3) comprising an active face (4) and an opposite face (5), said active face (4) having bristles (6), wherein, in the close position of the active parts (3), said bristles (6) of the branches A and B interpenetrate so as to grip the hair without blocking it.
3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): O 0 ®' IL ri 1 Ri—X< "'N—A——A4—N-"" x'X?— HL !. H in which: - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom 0, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
4. - R 1 and R 2 independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydroalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and by one or more groups chosen from the alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl groups,hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane;, - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; and - A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below: Process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) following: : -..JX '> À. A 'j; "AS Yx =V"' (II), in which - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom 0, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; - Li independently represents a divalent C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-, in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);- R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).;
5. Method according to claim 4, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently selected from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - L1 is chosen from a divalent C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
6. Process according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical; - E independently represents a group chosen from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a radical C6-C14 arylene, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrC18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
7. Process according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w equal to 1; - Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, and - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
8. Process according to any one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and - E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
9. Process according to any one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (XII) below: (XII), in which Li is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.
11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of coloring agent(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hair coloring composition comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably at least one acrylic polymer.
13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is a CrC3o, preferably Ci-C6, alkyl carbonate, or CrC3o, preferably Ci-C6, alkylene carbonate, more preferably the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is chosen from alkylene carbonates, better still from propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate and mixtures thereof.
14. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of alkyl or alkylene carbonate ranges from 20 to 60% by weight, preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 35 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid(s) are chosen from fatty acids comprising at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably chosen from liquid fatty acids, better chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid and their mixtures.
16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total fatty acid content ranges from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 4 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
17. Method according to any one of claims 2 to 16, characterized in that the two branches A and B are articulated around an articulation axis (Z) and move angularly closer to each other so that the active parts (3) of the branches A and B are in contact with each other.
18. A method according to any one of claims 2 to 17, characterized in that said bristles (6) are arranged in the form of tufts of bristles, preferably made of a natural material, such as natural bristles, or animal hair, such as squirrel, wild boar or goat hair.
19. Method according to claim 18, characterized in that the active faces of the branches A and B have rows (7) of tufts of bristles (6) separated by free spaces (8), the rows (7) of tufts of bristles (6) of the active parts (3) being arranged parallel to each other.
20. Method according to any one of claims 2 to 19, characterized in that it comprises a step of washing the hair, for example using a shampoo, following the application of the clip to the hair.
21. Device for coloring and removing color from hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 3 to 9; - in a second compartment, a composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof as defined in claim 1, - in a third compartment, a composition for removing color from hair comprising at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate and at least one fatty acid as defined in any one of claims 1 and 13 to 16; and optionally - a clamp (1) as defined in any one of claims 2 and 17 to 19.
22. A method of treating hair comprising: - a step of coloring the hair by applying a composition comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 3 to 9, at least one pigment and at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from carboxylic acids as defined in claim 12 to obtain colored hair, and - a step of removing the coloring from said colored hair by applying a composition for removing the color comprising at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate and at least one fatty acid as defined in any one of claims 1 and 13 to 16, and, - optionally followed by a step of treating the hair using a clip (1) as defined in any one of claims 2 and 17 to 19.
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