Association of an extract of Aureobasidium pullulans and an extract of white rose as a cosmetic active ingredient, composition comprising it and their use for skin care

Abstract

L'OREAL Association of an extract of Aureobasidium pullulans and an extract of white rose as a cosmetic active ingredient, composition comprising it and their use for skin care The present invention relates to an association comprising at least one extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans and at least one rose extract, the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans comprising at least 25% of sugars by weight of dry matter of the extract, as well as a composition comprising it. It also relates to non-therapeutic uses and methods, in particular cosmetic uses, using them for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin.

Description

Title of the invention: Association of an Aureobusidium pullulans extract and a white rose extract as a cosmetic active ingredient, composition comprising it and their use for skin care Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of active ingredients dedicated to the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin, and in particular to act against skin aging. The applications mainly concern the cosmetic field. Prior art

[0002] The skin is known to be one of the largest organ systems in mammals. Occupying approximately 10% of body weight, it is complex in both structure and function. Under normal physiological conditions, the epidermis is constantly self-renewing. Epidermal homeostasis, a balance between proliferation and differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes, is the key process for proper skin renewal. However, the high and constant cell renewal of the epidermis depends on the rapid proliferation of its progenitor cells.

[0003] Although representing only 5% of the skin mass, the epidermis has been shown to be a very metabolically active tissue (Leibsohn et al., J Invest Dermatol. 1958 Jan;30(l):l-8.). Metabolically active cells thus have energy needs met by mitochondrial respiration, a process generating adenosine triphosphate (ATP). However, epidermal cell renewal requires a lot of energy. Furthermore, this process is delayed by aging, which is also considered to be a cause of signs of skin aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines.

[0004] Mitochondria are membrane-bound cellular organelles that generate most of the chemical energy needed to power the cell's biochemical reactions. The chemical energy produced by mitochondria is stored in ATP. Recent studies have revealed a more innate role for mitochondria in maintaining skin homeostasis, which is affected when essential mitochondrial functions are impaired.

[0005] The growing accumulation of evidence supporting the close association between mitochondrial respiration and skin health has sparked a keen interest in specifically targeting mitochondria in the skin. This approach aims in particular to stimulate the ATP production (R Sreedhar, A., Aguilera-Aguirre, L. & Singh, KK Mitochondria in skin health, aging, and disease. Cell Death Dis 11, 444 (2020)). This highlights the importance of being able to regulate mitochondrial processes in epidermal cells to promote skin health and vitality.

[0006] In summary, the epidermis is a layer of the skin that renews itself autonomously. This process depends on the subsequent differentiation and migration of proliferative basal keratinocytes to comified keratinocytes, located in the outermost squamous layer of the epidermis. Epidermal renewal relies on good skin homeostasis, linked to good differentiation and therefore good desquamation (also called exfoliation) of the skin. It is known that cell renewal of the epidermis requires a high level of energy (ATP produced by mitochondria through mitochondrial respiration) and is delayed by aging.

[0007] The final step in good skin / epidermal renewal is desquamation, i.e. the detachment of comeocytes from the outer part of the epidermis. Good skin renewal is linked to good desquamation (Saint-Léger D et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007 Mar;6(l):59-65.), which is essential for a clearer complexion (skin radiance) and smoother skin (less scales, therefore less roughness and wrinkles and fine lines, a less dull complexion).

[0008] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0009] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0010] In this context, it is important to develop new ingredients and / or active ingredients that are environmentally friendly, particularly of natural origin, in particular bio-sourced and / or derived from sustainable sources not derived from petrochemicals and / or biodegradable and / or whose extraction process requires low energy and water consumption in order to offer compositions that reduce the environmental impact of the products.

[0011] There is thus a need for a new active ingredient or a new combination of active ingredients making it possible to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of skin cells, in particular the mitochondrial respiration of skin cells and / or the production of ATP by skin cells, in particular by epidermal keratinocytes.

[0012] There is also a need for a new active ingredient or a new combination of active ingredients to improve the quality of the skin surface.

[0013] There is further a need for a new active or combination of actives. to improve the radiance of skin tone.

[0014] There is also a need for a new active ingredient or a new combination of active ingredients to improve the texture of the skin.

[0015] There is also a need for a new active ingredient or a new combination of active ingredients to improve the uniformity of the complexion.

[0016] There is also a need for a new active ingredient or a new combination of active ingredients for reducing the microreliefs of the skin.

[0017] There is also a need for a new active ingredient or a new combination of active ingredients allowing the improvement of the quality of the surface of the skin, in particular the improvement of the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or the improvement of the texture of the skin and / or the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion and / or the reduction of the microreliefs of the skin.

[0018] There is also a need for a new active ingredient or a new combination of active ingredients for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles and fine lines.

[0019] There is also a need for a new active ingredient or a new combination of active ingredients making it possible to strengthen and / or improve epidermal renewal.

[0020] Finally, there is also a need for a new active ingredient or a new combination of active ingredients for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles and fine lines, and / or for strengthening and / or improving epidermal renewal.

[0021] The present invention aims precisely to meet all or part of these needs. Statement of the invention

[0022] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that a combination comprising at least one extract of yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans containing at least 25% sugars and at least one rose extract, in particular a rose extract consisting of a hybrid obtained by crossing Meichibon and Delgramaue varieties, has a positive and synergistic influence on several key parameters of keratinocytes, in particular on the capacity of keratinocytes to produce ATP, on the basal respiration of keratinocytes, and on the maximum respiration of keratinocytes, in particular epidermal keratinocytes. This had never been described before.

[0023] It has thus been demonstrated, as illustrated in the examples which follow, that such a combination of active ingredients, or a composition comprising it, makes it possible to support a strengthening of the energy capacity of keratinocytes, in particular epidermal keratinocytes, this strengthening being important for epidermal renewal and the proliferation / differentiation balance mentioned above. This thus allows an improvement significant improvement in the quality of the skin surface, and in particular an improvement in the radiance of the skin tone, skin texture, a significant reduction in fine lines, and an improvement in the evenness of the complexion. Summary of the invention

[0024] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to an association comprising at least one extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans and at least one rose extract; the extract & Aureobasidium pullulans comprising at least 25% sugars by weight of dry matter of the extract.

[0025] The yeast may in particular be isolated from rose bushes, more preferably from the flowers, and / or thorns and / or roots of Rosa sp., in particular from the roots of Rosa sp.

[0026] The extract of Aureobasidiumpullulans may in particular comprise at least 45% of sugars, by weight of dry matter of the extract, and in particular the sugars of the extract are composed of at least 80% of oligosaccharides, by weight of dry matter of the sugars, said oligosaccharides preferably being alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides and / or beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides and said oligosaccharides having for example a molar mass of less than 1800 Da.

[0027] The extract & Aureobasidiumpullulans is in particular capable of being obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a. cultivation of Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in a culture medium, b. solubilization of at least 50g / L of Aureobasidium pullulans in water, c. extraction, preferably extraction of sugars, d. heat treatment, e. separation of the soluble and insoluble phase, and recovery of the soluble phase, f. purification by molecular sorting, and possibly decolorization and deodorization, and g. possibly concentration and sterilizing filtration.

[0028] Furthermore, the rose bush of an association according to the invention may be a hybrid obtained by crossing Meichibon x Delgramaue varieties.

[0029] The rose extract of an association according to the invention can be obtained from flowers, flowering tops, and / or leaves of said rose bush.

[0030] The rose extract can be obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction of an alcoholic mixture of all or part of said rose.

[0031] More particularly, the alcoholic mixture can be obtained after infusion of all or part of said rose bush in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture.

[0032] The mass ratio [extract from yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans / rose extract] of a combination according to the invention may be greater than 1, preferably greater than 2, more particularly greater than 5, in particular is between 1 and 1000, in particular between 2 and 900, more particularly between 5 and 800, and in particular between 6 and 717.

[0033] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic, non-therapeutic composition, comprising at least, as active ingredient, an association according to the invention in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0034] The extract of Aureobasidiumpullulans may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight of dry matter, preferably ranging from 0.001% to 8% by weight of dry matter, more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 6% by weight of dry matter, and even better ranging from 0.1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and may be present in the composition in a content of at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] The rose extract may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of at least 0.00001% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a content of between 0.0001% and 1% by weight of dry matter, more particularly in a content of at least 0.0001% by weight of dry matter, in particular in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 0.1% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of an association according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of skin cells, in particular the mitochondrial respiration of skin cells and / or the production of ATP by skin cells, in particular by epidermal keratinocytes.

[0037] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of a combination according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention intended for improving the quality of the surface of the skin, in particular for improving the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or for improving the texture of the skin and / or for improving the homogeneity of the complexion and / or for reducing the microreliefs of the skin.

[0038] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of a combination according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to strengthen and / or improve epidermal renewal.

[0039] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials, preferably to the skin, a association according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention.

[0040] The keratin material considered may be the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and in particular may be (i) the skin of the body, including the skin of the scalp, and / or (ii) the skin of the face, and may more particularly be the skin of the face.

[0041] The method according to the invention may more particularly be intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of skin cells, in particular the mitochondrial respiration of skin cells and / or the production of ATP by skin cells, in particular by epidermal keratinocytes.

[0042] The method according to the invention may more particularly be intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to strengthen and / or improve epidermal renewal.

[0043] The method according to the invention may more particularly be intended for hydrating the skin and / or improving the quality of the surface of the skin, in particular improving the radiance of the skin complexion and / or improving the homogeneity of the complexion and / or reducing the microreliefs of the skin.

[0044] Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the associations, compositions and implementations in accordance with the invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples which follow. Brief description of the drawings

[0045] [Fig. 1] represents a general protocol for obtaining a rose extract by supercritical CO2 extraction of a floral infusion. The masses are indicative values, subject to variation.

[0046] [Fig.2] represents the production of ATP by epidermal keratinocytes (ordinate: in percentage of untreated + / - standard deviation (sd)) depending on whether these keratinocytes were treated for 24 hours with, in the order of the x-axis, from left to right: untreated (control); with an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3.10 2%; with an A. Pullulans extract at 4.10 2%; with a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction - CO2) at 3.3.10 4%; with a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction - CO2) at 1.1.10 3%; with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3.10 2% and a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction - CO2) at 3.3.10 4%; or with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract at 4.10 2% and a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction - CO2) at 1.1.103%.

[0047] *: 0.01 to 0.05, significant; **: 0.001 to 0.01, very significant; ***: < 0.001, partial particularly significant; ****: < 0.0001, extremely significant

[0048] [Fig.3] represents the basal respiration of epidermal keratinocytes (ordinate: in percentage of untreated + / - standard deviation (sd)) depending on whether these keratinocytes were treated for 24 hours with, in order of the x-axis, from left to right: untreated (control); with an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3.10 2%; with an A. Pullulans extract at 4.10 2%; with a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction - CO2) at 3.3.10 4%; with a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction - CO2) at 1.1.10 3%; with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3.10 2% and a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction - CO2) at 3.3.10 4%; or with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract. Pullulans at 4.10 2% and a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction - CO2) at 1.1.10 3%.

[0049] *: 0.01 to 0.05, significant; **: 0.001 to 0.01, very significant; ***: < 0.001, partial particularly significant; ****: < 0.0001, extremely significant.

[0050] [Fig.4] represents the maximum respiration of epidermal keratinocytes (ordinate: as a percentage of untreated + / - standard deviation (sd)) depending on whether these keratinocytes were treated for 24 hours with, in order of the x-axis, from left to right: untreated (control); with an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3.10 2%; with an A. Pullulans extract at 4.10 2%; with a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO 2 extraction - CO2) at 3.3.10 4%; with a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction - CO2) at 1.1.10 3%; with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3.10 2% and a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction - CO2) at 3.3.10 4%; or with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract at 4.10 2% and a rose extract (obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction - CO2) at 1.1.10 3%.

[0051] *: 0.01 to 0.05, significant; **: 0.001 to 0.01, very significant; ***: < 0.001, partial particularly significant; ****: < 0.0001, extremely significant. Detailed Description Definitions

[0052] For the purposes of the invention, the term “Aureobasidium pullulans” means any yeast of the Dothioraceae family, of the genus Aureobasidium and of the species Aureobasidium pullulans.

[0053] For the purposes of the invention, the term "Aureobasidiumpullulans extract" means an extract comprising at least one set of molecules, preferably an extract of the biomass of the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans comprising at least sugars representing at least 25% by weight of dry matter of the total weight of the extract, obtained from any extraction method well known to those skilled in the art, for example by induced autolysis, sonication, homogenization, chemical hydrolysis, or enzymatic hydrolysis. Such extraction methods are described in the publications Varelas V. et al., Drug Test Anal. 2016 Jan and Du L. et al. Molecules. 2020 Jan 23.

[0054] The extract & Aureobasidiumpullulans in accordance with the invention is not an extract of the Aureobasidium pullulons culture supernatant.

[0055] By "extract of yeast culture supernatant" within the meaning of the invention, is meant an extract which is not an extract of the Aureobasidium pullulans culture biomass.

[0056] According to the invention, a “physiologically acceptable medium” is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. without odor or unpleasant appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the topical administration route, i.e. which has a pleasant color and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, i.e. tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0057] By "keratin materials" within the meaning of the present invention, is meant in particular the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and preferably the skin of the body including the skin of the scalp, and / or the face, and more preferably the face.

[0058] By “skin” is meant the entire skin of the body, including the scalp, mucous membranes, semi-mucous membranes, and its appendages.

[0059] By "signs of skin aging" is meant here any modification of the external appearance of the skin due to aging, whether chronobiological and / or extrinsic, in particular due to chronobiological aging. Among these signs, mention may in particular be made of wrinkled skin, which is manifested in particular by the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines and skin presenting an alteration of its surface appearance, which is manifested in particular by an alteration of the skin's texture, for example roughness.

[0060] By “prevent” or “prevention” we also mean “reducing the probability of occurrence or re-occurrence of a phenomenon”.

[0061] By "treat" or "treatment" is meant the alleviation of the symptoms associated with a specific disorder or condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms as well as the complete disappearance of the disorder or condition in question, in particular here the treatment of the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles and fine lines.

[0062] The terms “association” and “combination” are used interchangeably herein and have the same meaning. Aureobasidium pullulans extract

[0063] The yeast Aureobasidium pullulans, also called black yeast or "Black yeast" is ubiquitous, polyextremotolerant and occurs either in the form of a filamentous fungus or in unicellular form. A. pullulans is well known as a natural epiphyte of many plant species, such as apple or grape. For several years, it has been used in biotechnology for the production of several enzymes or in the fight against certain diseases of the plant kingdom, such as apple disease.

[0064] Also, an association in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one extract from the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans, comprising at least 25% sugars by weight of dry matter of the extract.

[0065] Advantageously, the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans can be taken from rose bushes, preferably cultivated on the Valensol plateau (France), more preferably the yeast is taken from the flowers, and / or the thorns and / or the roots of Rosa sp., in particular from the roots of Rosa sp.

[0066] Preferably, Aureobasidium pullulans is isolated from rose bushes (Rosa sp.).

[0067] The genus Rosa includes more than 200 species among which we can cite Rosa alba, Rosa alpina, Rosa canina, Rosa cinnamonea, Rosa gallica, Rosa repens, Rosa ru-brifolia, Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa sempervirens, Rosa spinosissima, Rosa Stylosa, Rosa tomentosa, or even Rosa villosa, Rosa floribunda.

[0068] More preferably, Aureobasidiumpullulans can be isolated from a hybrid rose, such as the rose of the species Rosa floribunda, even better a hybrid rose of the variety Rosa floribunda, delflobla in particular commercially available under the trade name Rose Lancôme® from the company DELBARD (France). The variety Rosa floribunda, delflobla is also described in document US2020 / 0178431.

[0069] The Aureobasidium pullulans yeast in accordance with the present invention may be derived from a strain registered on January 13, 2021 in a yeast collection (CIRM), under number CLIB 2138.

[0070] According to one embodiment, the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans being ubiquitous, it can be present on several plant species. Preferably the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans is isolated from rose bushes, more preferably from the flowers, and / or the thorns and / or the roots of Rosa sp., in particular from the roots of Rosa sp.

[0071] The biomass & Aureobasidium pullulans is notably produced from yeast previously obtained. This step is carried out according to the yeast culture method in a medium adapted to their development, for example a suitable culture medium, in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art. Once the biomass is obtained, an extraction step is carried out in order to obtain the active molecules, preferably an extraction of the sugars.

[0072] The extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans comprises at least 25% of sugars by weight of dry matter of the extract. The extract in accordance with the invention may also comprise peptides and mineral ash.

[0073] Thus, the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidiumpullulans comprises sugars, these representing at least 25% of the extract, by weight of dry matter of the extract. Preferably, the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidiumpullulans comprises at least 45% of sugars, by weight of dry matter of the extract.

[0074] The total sugar content can be determined by the DUBOIS method (Dubois M. et al., Analytical chemistry, 28, 3, 350-356, 1956). The total sugar content is expressed as a percentage of the dry matter.

[0075] The size of the sugars present in the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Au-reobasidium pullulans can be characterized by HPLC / RI chromatography. They can be in the form of monosaccharides or in the form of oligosaccharides, preferably the oligosaccharides have a molar mass of less than 1800Da.

[0076] Particularly preferably, oligosaccharides are in the majority within the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidiumpullulans. Finally, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the sugars of the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans are composed of at least 80% of oligosaccharides, by weight of dry matter of the sugars.

[0077] Preferably, the oligosaccharides of the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidiumpullulans are alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides and / or beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides.

[0078] Alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides are oligomers consisting of D-glucose linked by alpha bonds. These oligosaccharides present in the cosmetic active ingredient in accordance with the invention may have a degree of polymerization (DP) of between 2 and 10 units.

[0079] Furthermore, these oligosaccharides may have a molar mass of less than 1800 Daltons. Preferably, they represent between 1.5 and 4 g / L.

[0080] Beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides are oligosaccharides, consisting of D-glucose linked by beta bonds. These oligosaccharides may have a degree of polymerization of between 2 and 10 units, and may have a molar mass of less than 1800 Daltons. Preferably, they represent between 1.5 and 4 g / L.

[0081] Also, the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans can comprise sugars of oligosaccharide structures having a degree of polymerization (DP) of less than 10, or a molar mass of less than 1800 Daltons.

[0082] The extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may also comprise peptides. Preferably, these represent at least 30% by weight of dry matter of the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans. The peptide content may be determined by measuring the total nitrogen content according to the KJELDHAL method (reference: Official method of analysis of the AOC, 12th ed. W Horwitz, ED, New York, 15-60, 1975). The peptides have a molar mass of less than 2000Da. The distribution and the molar mass of the peptides may be determined by steric exclusion FPLC chromatography (Fast Protein Liquid Chromatography), the quantity of each peptide fraction is determined by spectrophotometric assay according to the Lowry method (Lowry et al., Protein measurement with the Folin reagent, J. Biol. Chem., 193, 265-275, 1951).

[0083] When the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidiumpullulans comprises mineral ash, the ash content is preferably between 8 and 18% by weight relative to the dry matter of the extract, even more preferably between 10 and 15%. The crude ash content can be determined by weighing the residues resulting from the incineration of the samples at 550°C in a muffle furnace. The nature of the minerals contained in the ash can be determined by optical emission spectrometry (ICP / OES). The determination of the chloride ions contained in the ash is carried out by titration with silver nitrate. Preferably, the mineral ash contained in the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans comprises calcium, phosphorus, chloride ions, magnesium, sulfur and sodium.

[0084] The dry matter content of the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans can be determined by weighing the residues resulting from the drying of the extract in accordance with the invention at 105°C in an oven until a constant weight is obtained. Preferably, the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans in liquid form has a dry matter content of: 10 g / L to 40 g / L, even more preferably from 17 g / L to 26 g / L.

[0085] The extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans is preferably in the form of a clear liquid, very light yellow in color and with a weak odor. However, it can be more colored and / or be decolorized by any method known to those skilled in the art.

[0086] Extraction process of the extract &Aureobasidium pullulans

[0087] The extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans can be obtained by any process comprising at least one step of extracting the yeast biomass (A Aureobasidiumpullulans. The extraction of the yeast biomass does not consist of recovering the supernatant of the yeast culture.

[0088] Prior to the process for obtaining the extract as such, it is appropriate to produce the biomass (A Aureobasidium pullulans. This step is carried out according to the method of culturing the yeasts in a medium adapted to their development, for example a suitable culture medium, in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art. Once the biomass has been obtained, an extraction step can be carried out in order to obtain the active molecules, preferably sugars. The extraction step can be carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by induced autolysis, sonication, homogenization, enzymatic lysis, chemical hydrolysis, enzymatic hydrolysis.

[0089] For example, the extract of yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidiumpullulans can be obtained by implementing the following steps: a. cultivation of the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans in a culture medium, preferably a suitable culture medium, b. solubilization of at least 50g / L of Aureobasidiumpullulans biomass in water, c. extraction, preferably extraction of sugars, d. heat treatment, e. separation of the soluble and insoluble phase, and recovery of the soluble phase, f. purification by molecular sorting, and possibly decolorization and deodorization, and g. possibly concentration and sterilizing filtration.

[0090] The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by centrifugation, filtration or decantation. Preferably, the separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out to recover the soluble phase containing, among other things, soluble sugars, such as oligosaccharides.

[0091] Optionally, the method comprises a filtration step after the recovery of the soluble phase to remove the particles still in suspension. Thus, this filtration step allows the purification of the recovered soluble phase and is carried out in order to remove the high molecular weight molecules.

[0092] The product obtained at this stage may optionally be further concentrated and / or purified, preferably by successive ultrafiltration steps through filters of different porosity, retaining the filtrates at each step and / or by a chromatographic type method.

[0093] The product obtained after filtration, before or after concentration and sterilizing filtration, is the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidiumpullulans in liquid form. Rose extract

[0094] An association according to the invention also comprises at least one rose extract.

[0095] This rose extract may in particular be a particular hybrid rose extract, obtained by crossing Meichibon x Delgramaue varieties.

[0096] The varietal name Meichibon designates a rosebush belonging to the Rosaceae family, of the genus Rosa. It is a tea hybrid, also commercially referenced under the name Tchaikovski® rosebush, or Tchaikovski® Meichibon, or Meilland rosebush.

[0097] The varietal name Delgramaue designates a rose bush belonging to the Rosaceae family, of the genus Rosa, of the species Floribunda, also referenced under the commercial name of rose bush “rose synactifby Shisheido®” (Delbard), or “La Rose du Petit Prince”.

[0098] A rose bush, in particular a hybrid, as mentioned above may include abundant white double leaves, which may have some pink tips, averaging five flowers per stem, and a fragrance with various notes, including (i) a top note of grapefruit rose and citrus, (ii) a middle note of apricot and lychee, and (iii) a green base note. It can grow on average to an approximate height of 70 to 80 cm, and an approximate width of 40 to 50 cm, and branches with an approximate diameter of between 8 and 10 mm.

[0099] In particular, a hybrid rose bush as mentioned above can be obtained by hybridization of a “male” variety belonging to the varietal name Delgramaue, and a “female” variety belonging to the varietal name Meichibon.

[0100] In particular, such a hybrid rose bush can be obtained by pollination, i.e. the application of pollen from the stamens of a "male" flower, and in particular of a flower belonging to the variety name Delgramaue, to the pistil of a "female" flower, and in particular of a flower belonging to the variety name Meichibon.

[0101] This hybrid rose bush can in particular be distinguished from the Meichibon and Delgramaue varieties, defined previously, with regard to a combination of the following characteristics: - the number of petals generally differs from the Meichibon variety, in that this type of rose bush has flowers with a greater number of petals, larger in size, as well as a more pronounced fragrance with, as previously indicated, a characteristic note of grapefruit; -the color of the petals generally differs from the Delgramaue variety, in that their color is generally white, while the Delgramaue variety has lilac-colored petals, it is more vigorous and more resistant to the disease known as "black spot of the rose".

[0102] Rose extracts according to the invention can be obtained from plant material from whole plants or parts of plants such as leaves, stems, flowers, flowering tops, petals, sepals, or roots cultivated in vivo or in vitro.

[0103] By in vivo culture, we mean any culture of the classic type, that is to say in soil in the open air or in a greenhouse, or even above ground.

[0104] By in vitro culture is meant all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which allow artificially obtaining a plant or a part of a plant. The imposed selection pressure makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material available throughout the year, unlike plants cultivated in vivo.

[0105] In particular, said rose extract can be obtained from flowers, flowering tops, and / or leaves of said rose bush.

[0106] The rose extract of an association according to the invention can in particular be obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction of an alcoholic mixture of all or part of said rose.

[0107] A supercritical CO2 extract generally designates an extract obtained by a process using CO2 gas in a so-called “supercritical” state, either at a high pressure level (generally greater than 50 bars, or even greater than 70 bars), and at low temperature (generally greater than 30°C and less than 50°C).

[0108] According to one embodiment, the extraction is carried out in the presence of a CO2 gas in the supercritical state, i.e. at a temperature of at least 31.1°C and at a pressure of at least 74.5 bars.

[0109] Said supercritical CO2 extract can in particular be obtained according to a protocol described in WO 2012 / 085366 and detailed below.

[0110] A rose extract according to the invention, in particular a hybrid, can be obtained by any known means.

[0111] For example, a rose extract according to the invention can be obtained by extraction with non-polar volatile solvents from petrochemicals, such as hexane, isohexane, cyclohexane, benzene, petroleum ether, propane or butane. The water from the plants is then decanted, and the solvent containing the perfume is concentrated under vacuum to deliver the concrete. Also, a rose extract can be obtained by steam distillation or by hydrodistillation.

[0112] Said rose extract may be an alcoholic mixture obtained by infusing all or part of said rose in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent. In particular, the rose extract may be obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction of an alcoholic mixture of all or part of said rose, the alcoholic mixture being obtained after infusing all or part of said rose in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture.

[0113] The general method of extraction by supercritical CO2 is known. In the supercritical state, namely more than 74 bars (in particular more than 74.4 bars) and 31°C (in particular more than 31.1°C), CO2 has very particular properties and can be used as a natural extraction solvent. The fluid obtained is characterized by a high diffusivity (of the order of that of gases), which gives it a good aptitude for diffusion, and a high density which gives it a significant transport and extraction capacity.

[0114] Preferably, a rose extract, in particular a hybrid, according to the invention is obtained by a supercritical CO2 extraction process of all or part of said rose, and in particular according to any one of the variants described in document WO 2012085366, the content of which is incorporated into the present description by reference.

[0115] Also, according to this preferred embodiment, said rose extract can be obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction of an alcoholic mixture of all or part of said rose. Also, said alcoholic mixture can be obtained by infusion of all or part of said rose in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent.

[0116] The supercritical CO2 extraction step according to the invention can be carried out in static mode or in dynamic mode.

[0117] According to the invention, CO2 is preferably used at a pressure of between 130 and 200 bars and at a temperature of between 35 and 55°C, even more preferably at 150 bars and 45°C, counter-current and is particularly suitable for obtaining an extract of fresh flowers and / or leaves, clear, limpid and stable, largely freed from sugars, coloring matter, water and titrated to at least 75% alcohol.

[0118] Advantageously, the method according to the invention may further comprise a step in which the rose extract obtained after supercritical CO2 extraction is concentrated as is, under vacuum by gentle heating below 60°C, or on a support such as a natural oil, shea butter, natural glycerin, or a natural perfuming molecule such as natural benzyl acetate, natural geraniol, or natural nerolidol.

[0119] As an example of an alcoholic solvent according to the invention, a natural alcohol is used, chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol 1, 2-propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, isoamyl alcohol, and preferably ethanol which has a lower boiling point (except for methanol) and which is much less toxic than methanol in particular. An alcoholic solvent may be an ethanolic solvent.

[0120] In particular, said alcoholic mixture can be obtained after infusion of flowers, flowering tops, and / or leaves in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C, so as to obtain an alcoholic or hydroalcoholic mixture, or even a perfumed alcoholic or hydroalcoholic mixture.

[0121] According to the invention, the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves are preferably infused in the alcoholic solvent at room temperature, that is to say at a temperature between 15 and 35°C.

[0122] An alcoholic mixture can thus be obtained by infusing all or part of said rose bush in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent.

[0123] The rose extract of an association according to the invention may in particular comprise volatile compounds, and in particular at least one compound chosen from: cis-3-hexenol, trans-2-hexenol, C6 alcohol, diethoxyethanol, methyl heptenone, acetin or related compound, cis-3-hexenyl acetate, hexyl acetate, phenyl-acetic aldehyde, benzyl alcohol, linanol, phenylethyl alcohol, di-acetin or compound related, benzyl acetate, diethyl succinate, terpinenol-4, nerol, citronellol, geraniol, geranial, cistheaspirane, delta-elemene, citronellyl acetate, geranyl acetate, alpha-copaene, beta-elemene, coumarin, hydroxyedulane or isomer, [3-caryophyllene, dihydro-[3-ionine, dihydro-[3-ionol, a-jumulene, y-muurolene, germacrene D, a-cadinene, [3-bisabolene, y-cadinene, y-eudesmol, [3-eudesmol, a-cadinol, 4-oxo-dihydro-[3-ionol, benzyl benzoate, ethyl myristate, C19-alkene, C19-alkane, palmitic acid, ethyl palmitate, C20-alkane, C20-alkane C2i, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linoleate, ethyl linolenate, ethyl stearate, tricosene, tricosan, dihydro-[3-ionol ester.

[0124] In particular, the rose extract may in particular comprise a plurality of compounds chosen from: cis-3-hexenol, trans-2-hexenol, C6 alcohol, diethoxyethanol, methyl heptenone, acetin or related compound, cis-3-hexenyl acetate, hexyl acetate, phenylacetic aldehyde, benzyl alcohol, linanol, phenylethyl alcohol, di-acetin or related compound, benzyl acetate, diethyl succinate, terpinenol-4, nerol, citronellol, geraniol, geranial, cistheaspirane, delta-elemene, citronellyl acetate, geranyl acetate, alpha-copaene, beta-elemene, coumarin, hydroxyedulane or isomer, [3-caryophyllene, dihydro-[3-ionine, dihydro-[3-ionol, a-jumulene, y-muurolene, germacrene D, a-cadinene, [3-bisabolene, y-cadinene, y-eudesmol, [3-eudesmol, a-cadinol, 4-oxo-dihydro-[3-ionol, benzyl benzoate, ethyl myristate, C19-alkene, C19-alkane, palmitic acid, ethyl palmitate, C20-alkane, C2b-alkane linoleic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linoleate,ethyl linolenate, ethyl stearate, tricosene, tricosan, dihydro-[3-ionol ester.,

[0125] The rose extract, in particular obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, may for example comprise at least one compound chosen from: geraniol, geranial, nerol and citronellol.

[0126] Also, according to one embodiment, the rose extract may comprise at least one compound chosen from: cis or trans theaspirane, dihydrobetaionone, dihydro-betaionol, 4oxodihydronetaionol.

[0127] During infusion, the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves are immersed in the alcoholic solvent and can be gently stirred.

[0128] Advantageously, the infusion is carried out by circulating the solvent in a closed circuit, that is to say that the solvent is circulated over the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves so as to create movement in the extractor, without breaking the petals in particular, and to avoid areas of saturation of the solvent on the periphery of the petals. The stirring thus provides less saturated solvent which will in turn extract. Alternatively, infusions can be carried out in several concomitant or successive baths, depending on the quantity of flowers and / or leaves to be treated.

[0129] For example, it is possible to do a single bath followed by a rinse with new extraction solvent, several baths with the same flowers and / or leaves, or even several passes of flowers and / or leaves on the same bath due to the low saturation of the ethanol, for a final weight / weight ratio of flowers-leaves / alcoholic solvent of 1:1 to 1:10, preferably of 1:1 to 1:3.

[0130] For example, it is advantageous to carry out several passes of flowers and / or leaves in the same alcohol bath to saturate it, for example up to 5 passes, which makes it possible to concentrate the primary alcoholic extract. This proves to be more economical in terms of volumes to be transported and treated when the process for obtaining said extract implements a supercritical CO2 extraction step.

[0131] Then, depending on the preparation method used, the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves are generally drained, without being crushed too much, and the alcoholic mixture thus obtained is filtered so as to recover an alcoholic floral infusion capable of being kept cool at a temperature of approximately 4 to 10°C for one day to several months.

[0132] Thus, a method for obtaining a rose extract from an association according to the invention may comprise the following steps: a) infusing all or part of a rose bush, in particular a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing Meichibon x Delgramaue varieties, in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, in particular an ethanolic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture; b) optionally filtering said alcoholic mixture so as to recover an alcoholic floral infusion; and c) carrying out a supercritical CO2 extraction of said alcoholic mixture or said alcoholic floral infusion to obtain said rose extract.

[0133] A method for obtaining a rose extract from an association according to the invention may comprise the following steps: a) pick the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves of a rose bush, in particular a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the Meichibon x Delgramaue varieties; b) infusing the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves provided in step a), in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, in particular an ethanolic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture; c) optionally filtering said alcoholic mixture so as to recover an alcoholic floral infusion; and d) carrying out a supercritical CO2 extraction of said alcoholic mixture or said alcoholic floral infusion to obtain said rose extract.

[0134] In particular, the mass ratio [extract of yeast biomass of the species Aureo-basidiumpullulans / rose extract] of an association according to the invention can be greater than 1.

[0135] In particular, the mass ratio [extract of yeast biomass of the species Aureo-basidiumpullulans / rose extract] of an association according to the invention may be greater than 2.

[0136] The mass ratio [extract of yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans / rose extract] of an association according to the invention may more particularly be greater than 5.

[0137] In particular, the mass ratio [extract of yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans / rose extract] of an association according to the invention can be between 1 and 1000.

[0138] More particularly, the mass ratio [extract from the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidiumpullulans / rose extract] of an association according to the invention can be between 2 and 900.

[0139] More particularly still, the mass ratio [extract of yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidiumpullulans / rose extract] of an association according to the invention can be between 5 and 800.

[0140] In particular, the mass ratio [extract of yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans / rose extract] of an association according to the invention can be between 6 and 717. Composition according to the invention

[0141] A composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic, in particular cosmetic, and comprises at least as active ingredient an association according to the invention.

[0142] In a composition according to the invention, the combination according to the invention is included in a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium suitable for the administration of a composition by topical route, that is to say compatible with the skin.

[0143] The extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans of the association according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] In particular, the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 8% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] More particularly, the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 6% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] In particular, the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 6% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] In particular, the extract of the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be present in the composition in a content of at least 0.1% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] The rose extract of the association according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of at least 0.00001% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] In particular, the rose extract of the association according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.0001% and 1% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] More particularly, the rose extract of the association according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of at least 0.0001% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] In particular, the rose extract of the association according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 0.1% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular for the body or face, preferably the face.

[0153] Such a composition may constitute a cleansing, protective, treatment or care cream for the face, for the hands, or for the body including the skin of the scalp, for example day cream, night cream, makeup cream, foundation cream, sunscreen or lotion or hair cream for the scalp.

[0154] In particular, the compositions according to the invention may be in the form of anti-aging, moisturizing or photoprotection care compositions, in particular anti-aging care, for the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0155] The compositions can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

[0156] The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions or aqueous gels, a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, in particular using spherules, these spherules being able to be polymeric particles or better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type, or even in the form of a powder, a serum, a paste or a flexible stick or even a stick. It may be of solid, pasty, or more or less fluid liquid consistency.

[0157] These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. a / Fatty phase

[0158] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0159] The fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0160] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0161] A fatty phase suitable for the preparation of the compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0162] Preferably, a composition comprises less than 5.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), more preferably less than 2.0% by weight, even better less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably is free of silicone oil(s).

[0163] A composition comprising a limited content of silicone oil(s) is advantageously more natural, but also lighter, less sticky and less rough to the touch, with a softer finish, than a composition comprising more than 5% by weight or more of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0165] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0166] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, orbignya oleifera seed oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof. Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene, perhydrosqualene, squalane, and mixtures thereof.

[0167] By “non-volatile” is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0168] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0169] The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0170] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more heteroatom(s) such as oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atom. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0171] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0172] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0173] Mention may in particular be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-Ci6 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0174] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol® 12-97 and Parafol® 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures.

[0175] Mention may also be made of the following mixtures of linear or branched alkanes, preferably of plant origin: - a mixture of branched C15-C19 alkanes, for example that marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name EMOGREEN® L15; - a mixture of linear and / or branched C15-C19 alkanes, for example that marketed by the company Seppic under the name Emogreen® L19.

[0176] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, in particular an undecane-tridecane mixture, and linear and / or branched C15-C19 alkanes, in particular a mixture of linear and / or branched C15-C19 alkanes.

[0177] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethylte- trasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and do-decamethylpentasiloxane.

[0178] As cyclic silicone volatile oils, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

[0179] Non-volatile hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone oils may also be mentioned.

[0180] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, we can notably cite: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as squalane; - hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin such as: petroleum jelly, paraffin oils, polybutylenes, for example Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company Amoco, polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example Parléam® marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g / mol), Rewopal PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g / mol), polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, for example Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals; decene / butene copolymers, and polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, for example Indopol L-14; - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as plant squalane, - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, - synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from esters of alcohol and fatty acid, such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleates, laurate hexyl, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INC1 name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, - higher fatty acids C12-C22, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, - non-phenylated silicone oils, such as dimethicone or caprylyl methicone, and - phenylated silicone oils, such as, for example, phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as mixtures of these different oils.

[0181] The oil(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] The composition according to the invention may further comprise solid fatty bodies such as, for example, fatty acids which are solid at room temperature, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, and palmitic acid; waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candellila wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, fatty alcohol waxes, butters such as vegetable butters; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Ci-C4 -alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil” or “BY29” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries, such as the one bearing the INCI name dimethicone / poly silicone-11..

[0183] As fatty alcohol wax, mention may be made of lauric or lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol ristic or myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0184] Preferably, the fatty alcohol wax is cetyl alcohol.

[0185] As butter, in particular vegetable butter, mention may be made of avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, mango butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter, and mixtures thereof, and in particular shea butter.

[0186] These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example consistency or texture.

[0187] The solid fatty body(ies) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0188] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase.

[0189] The aqueous phase may comprise water and optionally an organic solvent miscible in water.

[0190] The water used may be demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-Bains water, Avene water. The aqueous phase can also include reconstituted thermal water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.

[0191] The water-miscible organic solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

[0192] The composition may comprise water at a concentration ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] Preferably, the water is present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 45% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0194] By "water-miscible organic solvent" according to the present invention is meant designate an organic compound which is liquid at room temperature and in particular has a miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0195] Among the water-miscible organic solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, polyols, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0196] Among the lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, ethanol and isopropanol may be mentioned.

[0197] By "polyol" suitable for the invention is meant a compound of alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, carrying on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four -OH functions.

[0198] The polyols suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are in particular those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0199] Among the polyols, mention may be made of pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols.

[0200] When present, the water-miscible organic solvent(s) is (are) preferably present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0201] The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof. For example, glycerin may be noted as a water-soluble solvent that may be present in a composition according to the invention.

[0202] Depending on the viscosity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more thickeners and / or gelling agents, in particular hydrophilic ones, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water, such as, for example, carboxyvinyl polymers such as carbopols (carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer), can be incorporated into the composition.

[0203] Advantageously, the gelling agent is chosen from synthetic or natural or naturally occurring polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0204] For the purposes of the invention, the expression “of natural origin” is intended to designate polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.

[0205] The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents may be chosen from: crosslinked acrylic homo- or co-polymers, associative polymers, in particular polyurethane-type associative polymers, polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, carboxy vinyl polymers, modified or not, and mixtures thereof, in particular as defined below.

[0206] Among the crosslinked acrylic homo- or co-polymers, mention may be made of crosslinked sodium polyacrylates such as the products marketed under the names Octacare X100, XI10 and RM100 by the company Avecia, those marketed under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those marketed under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1110 by the company BASF, those marketed under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing.

[0207] Among the carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may be made, for example, of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products marketed under the names Carbopol® (CTFA name: carbomer).

[0208] Among the polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid which are optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, mention may be made of: poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the name Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: Ammonium Poly-acryldimethyltauramide), crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, such as those marketed under the name Sepigel® 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / Ci3_i4 Iso-paraffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel® 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the Seppic company,

[0209] The natural or naturally derived polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents may be chosen from modified or unmodified celluloses, carrageenans, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, pullulan, cassia, karaya, konjac, tragacanth, tara, acacia or arabic gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0210] A composition according to the invention may also comprise a lipophilic thickener. This may in particular be chosen from esters of dextrin and fatty acid, preferably C12 to C24, in particular C14-C18, or mixtures thereof and (poly)esters of at least one fatty acid comprising from 20 to 24 carbon atoms and of glycerol.

[0211] The dextrin ester may be an ester of dextrin and C12-C18 fatty acid, in par particular in C14-C18.

[0212] The dextrin ester may be chosen from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably dextrin palmitate.

[0213] According to one embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that marketed in particular under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company CHIBA FLOUR MILLING.

[0214] According to one embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This may for example be chosen from those marketed under the names Rheopearl® TL 2 OR, or Rheopearl ® KL 2, Rheopearl ® KE by the company CHIB A FLOUR MILLING.

[0215] The (poly)ester of fatty acid and glycerol may advantageously be a (poly)ester of behenic acid and glycerol, in particular a mono-, di- or triester, or even a mixture of these.

[0216] The fatty acid and glycerol (poly)ester may in particular be a mixture of mono-, di- and / or triesters of behenic acid and glycerol.

[0217] The ester of behenic acid and glycerol is in particular chosen from the group consisting of glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl di-behenate, tri-behenate, in particular a mixture of glyceryl mono-behenate, glyceryl di-behenate and glyceryl tri-behenate.

[0218] Such a mixture is notably available, for example, under the INCI name “glyceryl dibehenate & tribehenin & glyceryl behenate”, and in particular marketed under the reference COMPRITOL 888 by the company GATTEFOSSE.

[0219] The composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.2% and 4% by total weight of (poly)ester of behenic acid and glycerol, preferably between 0.5% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. C-glycoside

[0220] A composition according to the invention may also comprise a C-glycoside (or C-glycoside derivative).

[0221] Such a compound may for example be chosen from the group consisting of C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, Ca- D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, Ca- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-propan-2-one, l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-propan-2-one, l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-propan-2-one, l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-propan-2-one, l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, l-(C-[3-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane, l-(CaD-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane, l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane, l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane, l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)-propan-2-one, l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)-propan-2-one, l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)-propan-2-one, l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)-propan-2-one, C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, CPD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, their isomers or their mixtures.

[0222] Even better, a composition according to the invention may in particular comprise as C-glycoside at least C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane such as that marketed under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by NOVEAL whose INCI name is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL or under the name MEXORYL SBB® which contains 35% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in 40% by weight of water and 25% of propylene glycol.

[0223] Said C-glycoside may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of active material, more preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, even better from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, such as 0.6% or 3.2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Assets

[0224] Advantageously, a composition may further comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient.

[0225] Examples of active ingredients include: - moisturizing agents; - depigmenting agents; - desquamating agents; - humectants; - anti-aging agents; - healing agents; - dermorelaxing or dermodecontracting agents, such as adenosine; - sebum-regulating or anti-seborrheic agents, such as sodium polyacrylate; emollients, such as vegetable butters; - matting agents, such as rice or corn starch, in particular an aluminum starch octenyl succinate, for example that marketed under the name Dry Flo® by the company National Starch; and their mixtures.

[0226] A composition according to the invention may comprise, as an active ingredient, a hydrolate of Rosa Damascena flowers. In the context of the present invention, the term hydrolate means an aqueous distillate obtained from a plant raw material by steam distillation. The hydrolate is thus the aqueous distillate which remains after steam distillation, once the essential oil has been separated. A hydrolate according to the invention may also be called aromatic water.

[0227] These active ingredients are different from the combination according to the invention. Surfactants

[0228] A composition according to the invention may comprise emulsifying surfactants, preferably non-ionic.

[0229] The nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, sucrose alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, geminal surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures. For example, Glyceryl Stearate SA (and) Sucrose Stearate can be considered.

[0230] As oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, those which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C12-C18; these may be ethoxylated or not, for example, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “Steareth-20”) such as Brij® 78 marketed by the company UNIQEMA, ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”) and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “C12_i5 Pareth-7”) such as that marketed under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals;or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) alcohols having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name “Steareth-2”) such as Brij® 72 marketed by the company Uniqema.;

[0231] As alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 are preferably used. For example, sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO may be mentioned, in particular po- lysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate), such as the product Tween ® 20 marketed by the company Uniqema, or polysorbate 60, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan stearate 20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO or even Crémophor® (RH 40, RH 60 ...) from BASF. We can also mention the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, marketed under the name Arlacel® 2121U-FL from Croda.

[0232] As alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units are preferably used. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (Alkyl-Cç / Cn-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company Henkel and the product marketed under the name Oramix NS 10® by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 110® by the company Seppic;laurylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; the mixture of arachidyl glucosyl and behenyl alcohol and arachidic alcohol, whose INCI name is Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, marketed under the name Montanov® 202 by Seppic; the mixture of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucosyl, whose INCI name is Cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside marketed under the name Montanov® 68 by Seppic and mixtures thereof.

[0233] A composition according to the invention or as implemented for the use according to the invention may comprise between 0.1% and 30% by weight of emulsifying surfactant, preferably between 0.2% and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] As emulsifiers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60 and the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / Glycol Stearate sold under the name TefoseR 63 by the company Gattefosse.

[0235] Polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide

[0236] A composition according to the invention may comprise a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.

[0237] As polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide usable according to the invention, mention may be made of the triblock polycondensates polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol sold under the names "SYNPERONIC" such as "SYNPERONIC® PE / F32" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 108), "SYNPERONIC® PE / F108" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 338), "SYNPERONIC® PE / L44" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 124), "SYNPERONIC® PE / L42 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 122), "SYNPERONIC® PE / F127" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 407), "SYNPERONIC® PE / F88" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 238), "SYNPERONIC® PE / L64" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 184) by the company CRODA, or even " LUTROL® F68” (INCI name: POLOXAMER 188) by BASF.

[0238] The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight.

[0239] Furthermore, in a known manner, a cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents; hydrophilic or lipophilic additives; preservatives; vitamins; antioxidants; solvents; perfumes; fillers; mineral bases, such as sodium hydroxide; filters; odor absorbers; and coloring matters. The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetic field, and for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

[0240] These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules. The quantities of the different constituents of the compositions according to the invention are those conventionally used in the fields considered. Use and method according to the invention

[0241] According to one embodiment of the invention, the use of a combination or a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of skin cells. It is more particularly intended to stimulate mitochondrial respiration of skin cells and / or the production of ATP by skin cells, in particular by epidermal keratinocytes.

[0242] According to another embodiment of the invention, the use according to the invention is characterized in that it is intended for improving the quality of the surface of the skin. It is in particular intended for improving the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or improving the texture of the skin and / or improving the homogeneity of the complexion and / or reducing the microreliefs of the skin.

[0243] According to another embodiment of the invention, the use according to the invention is characterized in that it is intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to strengthen and / or improve epidermal renewal.

[0244] Furthermore, a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for keratin materials according to the invention comprises at least one step of applying to the keratin materials a combination or a composition according to the invention.

[0245] The keratin material is preferably the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and in particular is (i) the skin of the body, including the skin of the scalp, and / or (ii) the skin of the face, and is more particularly the skin of the face.

[0246] A non-therapeutic cosmetic process of the invention is in particular characterized in that it is intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of skin cells. It is more particularly intended to stimulate mitochondrial respiration of skin cells and / or the production of ATP by skin cells, in particular by epidermal keratinocytes.

[0247] A non-therapeutic cosmetic process of the invention is in particular characterized in that it is intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to strengthen and / or improve epidermal renewal.

[0248] A non-therapeutic cosmetic process of the invention is in particular characterized in that it is intended for improving the quality of the surface of the skin. It is in particular intended for improving the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or improving the texture of the skin and / or improving the homogeneity of the complexion and / or reducing the microreliefs of the skin.

[0249] A use and a method according to the invention are preferentially implemented by administering topically.

[0250] Topical administration consists of the external application to keratin materials, in particular to the skin, more particularly to the skin of the face, of a combination or a cosmetic composition according to the invention according to the usual usage techniques in this field.

[0251] By way of illustration, the method or use according to the invention may be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of such a combination or composition. The composition may be, for example, formulated in the form of a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion, cleansing milk, stick or after-sun composition, preferably in the form of an emulsion.

[0252] The application can be repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over a day or more and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with where appropriate one or more periods of interruption.

[0253] The application can be daily (once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of interruption where appropriate.

[0254] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “includes from ... to ...”, “formed from ... to ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0255] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage. Examples

[0256] Example 1: In vitro tests on Aureobasidium pullulans extract and white rose CO2 extract

[0257] Preparation of the active ingredients of the association according to the invention

[0258] A. The extract (A Aureobasidiumpullulons) of an association according to the invention used in the examples is obtained from a yeast A" Aureobasidiumpullulons isolated from rose bushes. It is more particularly obtained by the following process: a. Culture of Aureobasidium pullulons in a suitable culture medium b. Solubilization of the biomass of the yeast Aureobasidium pullulons in water, at a rate of 50g / l, c. Extraction of sugars, d. Heat treatment, e. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, f. Purification by molecular sorting, g. Concentration, and h. Sterilizing filtration.

[0259] This extract (A Aureobasidium pullulans) has the following characteristics: - Dry Matter Content = 20.1 g / L including: - Total Sugar Content (according to the Dubois method) = 6.9 g / L (34%, by weight relative to dry matter) i. Alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharide content = 2.5g / L ii. Beta-linked glucose oligosaccharide content = 2.5g / L - Peptide content (according to the KJELDHAL method) = 6.6 g / L (33%, by weight relative to dry matter) - Mineral ash content = 2.5 g / L (12%, by weight relative to dry matter) - pH = 3.5 - Clear, very light yellow liquid, faint odor. Such an extract AAureobasidium pullulans comprises 2.15% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0260] B. The rose extract of an association according to the invention used in the examples is a hybrid variety of rose obtained by controlled crossing of two varieties: maternal (Tchaikovsky® Meichibon) and paternal (La Rose du Petit Prince / Rose Synactif by Shiseido ® Delgramaue).

[0261] The maternal line is also known by its plant name: Meichibon. The paternal line is also known by its plant name: Delgramau.

[0262] A protocol implemented to obtain a so-called “supercritical CO2” extract is that described in application WO 2012 / 085366.

[0263] Briefly, this consists of obtaining an extract from flowers, flowering tops and / or fresh and / or slightly faded leaves of rose according to the invention, comprising the following steps according to which: a) the flowers, flowering tops and / or rose leaves are picked; b) infusing said flowers, flowering tops and / or freshly picked leaves in at least one bath comprising an ethanolic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C, for example at room temperature, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture (in this case an ethanolic mixture); c) filtering said alcoholic mixture so as to recover an alcoholic floral infusion; and d) a supercritical CO2 extraction (called CO2sc extraction in [Fig.l]) is carried out on the alcoholic floral infusion to obtain the said extract, at 45°C and at a pressure of 150 bars; and e) the said extract is concentrated under moderate vacuum (100 to 500 mbar), at a temperature not exceeding 60°C.

[0264] Such a rose extract comprises 15% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0265] Evaluation of the effect of an association according to the invention on the mitochondrial respiration of epidermal keratinocytes

[0266] The effect of the above-mentioned extract (XAureobasidium pullulans and rose extract (Absolue Perpétuai Rose™) and their combination was evaluated on mitochondrial respiration in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) by measuring ATP (Adenosine triphosphate) production, basal respiration and maximal respiration after 24 hours of incubation using Seahorse technology.

[0267] In fact, respiration corresponds to the consumption of oxygen by cells for normal energy activity. The higher the value, the more active the cell.

[0268] ATP production is directly proportional to the cell's energy requirement.

[0269] Maximum respiration is thus directly proportional to the cell's "metabolic agility". The higher the value, the more responsive / reactive the system is.

[0270] Prior to this assay, a cytotoxicity test was performed on NHEK cells using a standard WST-8 reduction assay to determine the concentrations to be tested in this study. Compounds were tested at concentrations that are not cytotoxic.

[0271] Cell type: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) Culture conditions: 37°C, 5% CO2 Culture medium: Dermalike K Culture medium test: DermaLife K Concentrations tested: - Aureobasidium pullulans extract: 0.013% and 0.04% by weight of the extract relative to the total weight of the composition in DMSO; - rose extract: 0.00033% and 0.001% of the extract relative to the total weight of the composition in DMSO.

[0272] These extracts were tested separately at these concentrations, as well as in combination: (i) Aureobasidium pullulans extract 1.3.10 2% + rose extract 3.3.10 4%; and (ii) Aureobasidium pullulans extract 4.10 2% + rose extract 1.10 3%. The experience

[0273] Keratinocytes were seeded into specific 24-well Seahorse plates and incubated in culture medium for 48 hours. The medium was then replaced with a test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds, the combination or the control solvent (0.01% DMSO) and the cells were incubated for 2 hours or 24 hours before the evaluation of mitochondrial respiration.

[0274] All experimental conditions were carried out in n=3. Evaluation of mitochondrial activity

[0275] Seahorse XF technology (Agilent) measures mitochondrial respiration in real time in a microchamber.

[0276] The day before the test, the detection cartridge was hydrated overnight according to the supplier's instructions. At the end of the incubation time, the cell growth medium was replaced with serum-free and sodium bicarbonate-free DMEM and the cells were incubated in a CO2-free incubator at 37°C for 1H according to the supplier's instructions. The oxygen consumption rate (OCR) and the extracellular acidification rate (ECAR) were monitored under basal conditions and after the injection of oligomycin (1 μM), Carbonyl cyanide-4 (trifluoromethoxy) phe-nylhydrazone (FCCP, IpM) and Rotenone / antimycin A (R / AA, IpM) successively into the well using a dedicated protocol (Seahorse XF Cell Mito Stress Test Kit).

[0277] Oligomycin inhibits ATP synthase (complex V of the mitochondrial electron transport chain (ETC), and is injected first in the assay after basal measurements. It affects or decreases the flow of electrons through the ETC, resulting in a reduction in mitochondrial respiration or OCR. This decrease in OCR is linked to cellular ATP production.

[0278] Carbonyl cyanide-4 (trifluoromethoxy) phenylhydrazone (FCCP) is an uncoupling agent that collapses the proton gradient and disrupts the mitochondrial membrane potential. This is the 2nd injection after Oligomycin. As a result, electron flow through the ETC is uninhibited and oxygen consumption by complex IV reaches the maximum. FCCP-stimulated OCR can then be used to calculate available respiratory capacity, defined as the difference between maximal and basal respiration. Available respiratory capacity is a measure of the cell's ability to respond to increased energy demand or stress.

[0279] The third injection is a mixture of rotenone, a complex I inhibitor, and antimycin A, a complex III inhibitor. This combination stops mitochondrial respiration and allows calculation of non-mitochondrial respiration driven by processes external to the mitochondria.

[0280] The results obtained after analysis are presented below.

[0281] Statistical analyses were performed using ANOVA analysis of variance followed by a Dunett post-test.

[0282] Results are expressed as mean ± standard error (SEM) and the difference is considered significant at p < 0.05 (*). Results

[0283] Validation of the Seahorse technology was based on the oxygen consumption profile of untreated cells. This oxygen consumption profile was consistent across all stages of Seahorse. When oligomycin, an ATP synthase inhibitor, was added, ATP production was effectively inhibited. Then, treatment with FCCP stimulated cellular respiration until the maximum keratinocyte respiration rate was reached.

[0284] The effects of the test compounds, combination or control solvent on mitochondrial respiration are shown in Figures 2, 3 and 4.

[0285] Under our conditions, neither Aureobasidiumpullulans extract alone nor rosehip extract alone improved mitochondrial respiration.

[0286] Conversely, unexpectedly, a combination of these active ingredients in accordance with the invention significantly and synergistically stimulates mitochondrial respiration.

[0287] By combining 1.3.10 2% of Aureobasidium pullulans extract with 3.3.10 4% of rose bush according to an association in accordance with the invention, we observe: - an increase in ATP production of +31%; - an increase in basal respiration of +29%; and - an increase in maximum respiration of +46%.

[0288] By combining 4.10 2% of Aureobasidium pullullans extract with 1.10 3% of rose extract, we observe: - an increase in ATP production of +23%; - an increase in basal respiration of +20%; and - an increase in maximum breathing of +25%.

[0289] These results thus illustrate the interest of combining an extract of Aureobasidiumpullulans and a rose extract in accordance with the present invention to stimulate energy metabolism.

[0290] Example 2: In vivo effect of an association according to the invention implemented in a cosmetic composition

[0291] A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention, of the facial cream type as defined below in Table 1, was prepared and tested. Compounds (INCI name) Concentration (%) PH ADJUSTER qs STEARIC ACID 1.5 PRESERVATIVES qs FRAGRANCE qs WATER qsp 100 ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE 4 XANTHAN GUM 0.3 GLYCERYL DIBEHENATE (and) TRIBEHENIN (and) GLYCERYL BEHENATE 0.5 PENTAERYTHRITOL TETRAETHYLHEXANOATE 3 GLYCERIN 4.9 ACTIVES 0.6 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.25 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL 1 VEGETABLE BUTTER 1 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0.65 C10-30 ALKYL POLYACRYLATE 0.5 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE 1,2 OCTYLDODECANOL 3 GLYCERYL STEARATE SE (and) SUCROSE STEARATE 1,75 ROSA DAMASCENA FLOWER EXTRACT (rose extract) 0,11 SQUALANE 2,5 ROSA HYBRID FLOWER EXTRACT (rose extract Absolue Perpétuai Rose™ according to example 1 B.) 0,001 HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPY- RANTRIOL 9 AUREOBASIDIUM PULLULANS FERMENT (A. pullulans extract according to Example 1 A.))* 5

[0293] * the extract of Aureobasidiumpullulans according to example 1 A. is incorporated into the composition in the form of a mixture comprising 2.15% by weight of dry matter of Aureobasidiumpullulans extract, 15% by weight of propylene glycol, qs. Water.

[0294] * the rose extract, Absolue Perpétuai Rose™ according to example 1 B. is incorporated in the composition in the form of a mixture comprising 15% by weight of dry matter of rose extract, and 85% by weight of ethanol.

[0295] This composition was applied for 56 days to the entire face of 69 healthy Asian women, aged 45 to 65, with all skin types, 50% of whom had sensitive skin (declarative), with clinical scores on the face, according to a 10-point modified Griffiths scale (0=none and 9=severe): - a lack of skin radiance (visual), inclusion grade > 3 and < 6; - a lack of skin smoothness (tactile), inclusion grade > 3 and < 6; - visible fine lines (visual), inclusion grade > 3 and < 6.

[0296] The application was made as follows: Wash from D-14 to D0 and persistence from D56 to D61 Morning: usual neutral cream + SPF L'OREAL PARIS UV Expert SPF50 + L'Oréal Paris - UV perfect City resist 8 Evening: usual neutral cream Test period from D0 to D56: application twice a day of the composition according to the invention.

[0297] Morning: Composition according to the invention + SPF L'OREAL PARIS UV Expert SPF50 + L'Oréal paris - UV perfect City resist 8 Evening: Composition according to the invention. Assessment

[0298] This evaluation consisted of a complete clinical rating by a dermatologist at D0, D14, D28, D56, D61 (D56 +5 days of persistence) of the parameters of interest on a 10-point scale. Results

[0299] Table 2 below illustrates the evolution with respect to Jx compared to the initial value at D0. Time Point Mean Score Mean Change from Baseline to Day 0 Mean % Change from Day 0 Tukey Test Number and Percentage of Subjects Showing Improvement (Responders) (±SD) p-Value Significant at 5% Skin Tone Brightness Day 4.93+0.7 4 Day 14 4.26+0.8 0 -0.67±0.47 -13.7% < 0.001 S| 31 (67.4%) Day 28 3.74+0.6 1 -1.20±0.62 -24.2% < 0.001 S| 41 (89.1%) Day 56 3.35+0.5 7 -1.59±0.58 -32.2% < 0.001 S| 46 (100%) D61* 3.41+0.6 2 -1.52±0.75 -30.8% < 0.001 S| 43 (93.5%) Visibility of fine lines D0 5.35+0.7 7 D14 4.76+0.9 7 -0.59±0.50 -11.0% < 0.001 S| 27 (58.7%) D28 4.02+0.8 0 -1.33±0.56 -24.8% < 0.001 S| 44 (95.7%) D56 3.65+0.6 7 -1.70±0.55 -31.7% < 0.001 S| 46 (100%) Smooth skin texture JO 4.15+0.3 6 J14 3.28+0.4 6 -1.87±0.34 -20.9% < 0.001 S| 40 (87%) J28 3.09+0.4 6 -1.07±0.49 -25.7% < 0.001 S| 42 (91.3%) J56 2.70+0.5 1 -1.46±0.62 -35.1% < 0.001 S| 45 (97.8%)

[0301] *: assessment of the persistence compared to the baseline, without application of the product tested between D61 and JO. | : statistically significant decrease in scores S: Statistically significant comparison at 5% NS: Statistically non-significant comparison. All results obtained reached the threshold of clinical relevance.

[0302] After 14 days of application of the composition according to the invention, the results were evaluated by a dermatologist. The latter observed a statistically significant and clinically relevant reduction of: - skin tone radiance with an improvement of 13.7%; - visibility of fine lines with an improvement of 11%; - smooth skin texture with a 20.9% improvement.

[0303] After 28 days of application of the composition according to the invention, the results were evaluated by a dermatologist. The latter observed a statistically significant and clinically relevant reduction of: - skin tone radiance with an improvement of 24.2%; - visibility of fine lines with an improvement of 24.8%; - smooth skin texture with a 25.7% improvement.

[0304] After 56 days of application of the composition according to the invention, the results were evaluated by a dermatologist. The latter observed a statistically significant and clinically relevant decrease of: - skin tone radiance with an improvement of 32.2%; - visibility of fine lines with an improvement of 31.7%; - smooth skin texture with a 35.1% improvement.

[0305] The topical application of a composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to improve the radiance of the skin complexion, to improve the texture of the skin and to reduce the signs of skin aging such as fine lines.

[0306] Example 3: In vivo effect of an association according to the invention implemented in a cosmetic composition

[0307] A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention, of the facial cream type as defined below in Table 3, was prepared and tested. Compounds (INCI name) Concentration (%) PH ADJUSTER qs STEARIC ACID 1.5 cetearyl alcohol 1 PRESERVATIVES qs ALCOHOL DENAT. 3 WATER qsp 100 ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE 2 WAX 1,3 VEGETABLE BUTTER 1,5 PENTAERYTHRITOL TETRAETHYLHEXANOATE 3 GLYCERIN 7 ACTIVES 2,16 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0,1 FILLER 3,3 DEXTRIN PALMITATE 2,3 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 1 ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE 1 COLOR 0,0025 VEGETABLE GUM 0,5 ROSA DAMASCENA FLOWER OIL 0,0025 Glyceryl Stearate SA (and) Sucrose Stearate 1,5 ROSA DAMASCENA FLOWER OIL 0.5 SQUALANE 3.5 POLOXAMER 338 0.2 HYBRID ROSA FLOWER EXTRACT (Absolue Perpétuai Rose™ rose extract according to example 1 B.) 0.001 HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPY- RANTRIOL 3 AUREOBASIDIUM PULLULANS FERMENT (Aureobasidium pullulans extract according to example 1 A.)* 5

[0309] * the extract of Aureobasidiumpullulans according to example 1 A. is incorporated into the composition in the form of a mixture comprising 2.15% by weight of dry matter of Aureobasidiumpullulans extract, 15% by weight of propylene glycol, qs. Water.

[0310] * the rose extract, Absolue Perpétuai Rose™ according to example 1 B. is incorporated in the composition in the form of a mixture comprising 15% by weight of dry matter of rose extract, and 85% by weight of ethanol.

[0311] This composition was applied for 56 days to the eye contour of 59 healthy Asian women, aged 45 to 65, with all skin types, 50% of whom had sensitive skin (declarative), with clinical scores on the eye contour, according to a 10-point modified Griffiths scale (0=none and 9=severe): - a lack of dullness / lack of radiance of the skin, inclusion grade > 3 and < 6; and - smooth skin texture (visual), inclusion grade > 3 and < 6.

[0312] The application was made as follows: Neutral cream for volunteers, twice a day morning and evening During the wash-out period (from -D14 to D0 of the study), the volunteers use their usual neutral cream on the face, avoiding the eye area. During the period of application of the composition according to the invention to the eye contour (from D0 to D56), the volunteers use their usual neutral cream on the face, avoiding the eye contour. During the persistence period (from D57 to D63), the volunteers stop applying the composition according to the invention and use their usual neutral cream on the face, avoiding the eye area.

[0313] Composition according to the invention, twice a day morning and evening During the test period from D0 to D56, apply twice a day in the morning and evening to the eye area. Assessment

[0314] This evaluation consisted of a clinical rating by a dermatologist of the parameters studied on a 10-point scale at T0, T2 weeks, T4 weeks, T8 weeks and T9 weeks (T8 weeks + 1 week of persistence). Results

[0315] Table 4 below illustrates the evolution of different parameters from T0 to Tx. Scoring Technique Parameters Assessed Time Point Mean Score (±SD) Mean Change from Baseline (±SD) Mean % Change from Baseline (not shown if test is non-significant -NS) Tukey Test p-value Significant at 5% 10-point scale Dullness 0: Very bright / fair complexion 9: Dull / waxy complexion Appearance Baseline (T0) 5.49+0.5 4 Week 2 5.01+0.7 5 -0.48+0.50 = 0.595 NS Week 4 4.31+0.9 0 -1.18±0.66 -21.56% < 0.001 S| Week 8 3.40+0.8 4 -2.09±0.63 -38.10% < 0.001 S| Week 9* 3.60+0.9 0 -1.89±0.74 -34.39% < 0.001 S| Skin smoothness texture (V isueY) 0: very smooth 9: not smooth Baseline (T0) 5.49+0.5 4 Week 2 5.23+0.6 4 -0.26+0.37 = 1.000 NS Week 4 4.73+0.7 6 -0.76±0.60 -13.75% < 0.001 S| Week 8 4.04+0.6 9 -1.45±0.61 -26.39% < 0.001 S| Week 9* 4.05+0.7 3 -1.44±0.70 -26.21% < 0.001 S|

[0317] *: assessment of the persistence compared to the initial situation, without application of the product tested between weeks T9 and T8. J, : statistically significant decrease in scores S: statistically significant comparison at 5% NS: statistically insignificant comparison

[0318] After 4 weeks of application of the composition according to the invention, the results show a statistically significant improvement in the following criteria according to the clinical evaluation of a dermatologist: - Radiance / Dull complexion with a 21.6% improvement; - Skin smoothing with a 13.8% improvement.

[0319] After 8 weeks of application of the composition according to the invention, the results show a statistically significant improvement in the following criteria according to the clinical evaluation of a dermatologist: - Radiance / Dull complexion with a 38.1% improvement; - Skin smoothing with a 26.4% improvement.

[0320] The topical application of a composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to improve the radiance of the skin complexion, to improve the uniformity of the complexion and to improve the texture of the skin.

Claims

Claims

1. Association comprising at least one extract of yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans and at least one rose extract; the extract & Aureobasidium pullulans comprising at least 25% of sugars by weight of dry matter of the extract.

2. Association according to claim 1, characterized in that the yeast is isolated from rose bushes, more preferably from the flowers, and / or thorns and / or roots of Rosa sp., in particular from the roots of Rosa sp.

3. Association according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans comprises at least 45% of sugars, by weight of dry matter of the extract, and in particular the sugars of the extract are composed of at least 80% of oligosaccharides, by weight of dry matter of the sugars, said oligosaccharides preferably being alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides and / or beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides and said oligosaccharides having for example a molar mass of less than 1800 Da.

4. Association according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract & Aureobasidium pullulans is obtainable by a process comprising the following steps: a. cultivation of the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans in a culture medium, b. solubilization of at least 50g / L of Aureobasidium pullulans in water, c. extraction, preferably extraction of sugars, d. heat treatment, e. separation of the soluble and insoluble phase, and recovery of the soluble phase, f. purification by molecular sorting, and optionally decolorization and deodorization, and g. optionally concentration and sterilizing filtration.

5. Association according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the rose bush is a hybrid obtained by crossing Meichibon x Delgramaue varieties.

6. Association according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the rose extract is obtained from flowers, flowering tops, and / or leaves of said rose bush.

7. Association according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the rose extract is obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction of an alcoholic mixture of all or part of said rose.

8. Association according to claim 7, characterized in that the alcoholic mixture is obtained after infusion of all or part of said rose bush in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture.

9. Association according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the mass ratio [extract from the yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans / rose extract] is greater than 1, preferably greater than 2, more particularly greater than 5, in particular is between 1 and 1000, in particular between 2 and 900, more particularly between 5 and 800, and in particular between 6 and 717.

10. Composition, in particular cosmetic, non-therapeutic, comprising at least, as active ingredient, a combination as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 9 in a physiologically acceptable medium.

11. Composition according to claim 10, in which the extract of Aureobasidium pullulons is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight of dry matter, preferably ranging from 0.001% to 8% by weight of dry matter, more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 6% by weight of dry matter, and even better ranging from 0.1% to 6% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition and may be present in the composition in a content of at least 0.1% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to claim 10 or 11, in which the rose extract is present in the composition in a content of at least 0.00001% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a content of between 0.0001% and 1% by weight of dry matter, more particularly in a content of at least 0.0001% by weight of dry matter, in particular in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 0.1% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Use of a combination according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or of a composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12, intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of skin cells, in particular the mitochondrial respiration of skin cells and / or the production of ATP by skin cells, particularly by epidermal keratinocytes.

14. Use of a combination according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or of a composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12, intended for improving the quality of the surface of the skin, in particular for improving the radiance of the skin complexion and / or for improving the texture of the skin and / or for improving the homogeneity of the complexion and / or for reducing the microreliefs of the skin.

15. Use of a combination according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or of a composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12, intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to strengthen and / or improve epidermal renewal.

16. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials, preferably to the skin, a combination according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or a composition as defined according to any one of claims 10 to 12.

17. A method according to claim 16, wherein the keratin material is skin, lips and / or eyelashes, in particular skin and / or lips, and in particular is (i) body skin, including scalp skin, and / or (ii) facial skin, and more particularly is facial skin.

18. Method according to claim 16, characterized in that it is intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of skin cells, in particular the mitochondrial respiration of skin cells and / or the production of ATP by skin cells, in particular by epidermal keratinocytes.

19. Method according to claim 16, characterized in that it is intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to strengthen and / or improve epidermal renewal.

20. Method according to claim 16, characterized in that it is intended for hydrating the skin and / or improving the quality of the skin surface, in particular improving the radiance of the skin complexion and / or improving the homogeneity of the complexion and / or reducing the microreliefs of the skin.

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